Thank you, the video was very helpful. I did my wife's Explorer yesterday. Cranking that piston back in is the hardest part of the job. Trying to hold the caliper in one hand and cranking the tool with the other is difficult, especially at the start. I miss the old days when a C-Clamp was all you needed.
Thank you. I didn't know I had to sping the piston on the rear calipers. Im glad you posted the video. If I kept trying to force it I may have dameged the caliper 😊
Being a retired mechanic I watch these videos out of nostalgia, this is a great instruction and I agree when you years of experience you have the appropriate Bolt and Nut Torques imbedded in your elbows. But I would recommend DIY and weekend mechanics have a torque wrench. Great job sir. 🇨🇦
Nice job on the Explorer, Jim. I recently did the front of my 11 Ford Flex. I noticed that grease was used on the surface between the Rotor and the Hub. There was very little rust in there.
Jim , great Vid , one thing you did not mention was the brake fluid being pushed back to the Master Cylinder , me I usually crack open slightly the bleeder screw Frank T
I need help Flushing or bleeding the brakes on my 2012 ford explorer!! Any tips ?? I’ just picked up the master cylinder from the junk yard from another explorer compatible with mine. Anyways I can’t seem to find the correct information before making the decision.
Thanks for the video! I also use some heat for those stubborn T40 bolts that hold the rotor or cut a line with a cutoff wheel and use a impact hammer to knock it loose because I hate drilling them out.
You didn't show how to adjust the emergency brake? You did show us how to screw in the piston on the caliper which I am assuming has to do with the emergency brake?
Great video Jim. I didnt know to grease the face of the piston. I think you should have put anti-sieze on the axle flange so it comes off easier the next time. Sometimes the rotors weld themselves to the flanges and are very difficult to remove.
Great video but what a piece of crap engineering from Ford on the caliper! How many years have pistons not needed any special tools other than a C clamp or pry bar and old pads! You did a good job explaining this process though.
You actually do need the tool for these brakes. This piston has to turn and push at the same time in order to go in. Not like other vehicles where it just has to push in.
@cuznl3343 I don't think you do. If it twists to go in that means it would have to have something to twist it while the brakes are being applied in order for them to work right? I had a car with these pistons and I just used the old brake pad and a c-clamp.
This happens to be the best instructional video I have ever seen when it comes to cars!! Thank you sir!!
The best video for rear brakes on this generation Explorer. Well produced and narrated too!
THANK YOU SIR. Jim I used this for my 2013 Ford Edge. Saved myself estimated $200-300.
Thank you, the video was very helpful. I did my wife's Explorer yesterday. Cranking that piston back in is the hardest part of the job. Trying to hold the caliper in one hand and cranking the tool with the other is difficult, especially at the start. I miss the old days when a C-Clamp was all you needed.
Thank you. I didn't know I had to sping the piston on the rear calipers. Im glad you posted the video. If I kept trying to force it I may have dameged the caliper 😊
Being a retired mechanic I watch these videos out of nostalgia, this is a great instruction and I agree when you years of experience you have the appropriate Bolt and Nut Torques imbedded in your elbows. But I would recommend DIY and weekend mechanics have a torque wrench. Great job sir. 🇨🇦
Well said!
First of all thanks for the great video. My only question is, shouldn't you use copper grease and anti-seize when working on brakes?
Nice job on the Explorer, Jim.
I recently did the front of my 11 Ford Flex. I noticed that grease was used on the surface between the Rotor and the Hub. There was very little rust in there.
Jim , great Vid , one thing you did not mention was the brake fluid being pushed back to the Master Cylinder , me I usually crack open slightly the bleeder screw Frank T
I need help Flushing or bleeding the brakes on my 2012 ford explorer!! Any tips ?? I’ just picked up the master cylinder from the junk yard from another explorer compatible with mine. Anyways I can’t seem to find the correct information before making the decision.
This video gets a well deserved "like".
Thanks a lot for the video. You sir saved me some money and I learned something new! God bless you!
Another great instructional vid by one of the best!
Thanks for the video! I also use some heat for those stubborn T40 bolts that hold the rotor or cut a line with a cutoff wheel and use a impact hammer to knock it loose because I hate drilling them out.
I own a motorcycle Impact screwdriver if you can rent one their great.
I did enjoy the video, and you do things so I can keep up!!
Grinder wrench works great on the piston
Thanks for watching.
This brake job doesn't require bleeding the fluid afterwards? Just asking.
Thanks very well done. These videos are great.
Really excellent video! Though I have done this many times I did pick up a thing or to. thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
don't the pads need to slide those two nubs into those holes on the caliper piston?
Can the brake caliper tool be rented at an auto parts store?
I rented a set at o reillys
hey jim I have the tool, but nowadays I use the needle nose method
Thank you Sir you really made it look easy
Excellent tutorial thank you
Thank you for the video.
Do you need to rotate the break piston and turn it back to the original position ?
Thank you
Thanks for watching.
@@jimthecarguy dude asks you a question and you just reply with "thanks for watching" what a fucking prick
Where did you get the brake tool from and how much?
Actually most of my tools were bought front the tool trucks (Snap on or Matco )that come to the shop.Thanks for watching. Don't forget to subscribe.
Future reference for the home mechanic/amateur - Lowes has a pretty good unit made by Craftsman ($40 in Nov-2023)
You didn't show how to adjust the emergency brake? You did show us how to screw in the piston on the caliper which I am assuming has to do with the emergency brake?
Thank you for watching .
14:00
So it's electro-plated to keep it from rusting...
but they coat it in oil to keep it from rusting??
lol!
Great video man! Thanks! I will apply the same to my Ranger 2013. It should work.
Are you from Boston by the way?? Paaking break?
Thank you for watching. Good question I get that a lot but I'm from New Jersey
What is the purpose of the Torx bolt if the tire mounted keeps the rotor in place?
The Torx just hold the rotor in place until the rim is put .
@@jimthecarguy Okay, the older vehicles had a holding washer instead. Thanks Jim
Great video, is the process the same for a 2012 ford Explorer?
Yes it is the same.Thanks for watching.
The t40 bolts are such a bitch I just tossed mine after and forgot to replace them. So far 20k miles and no issues whatsoever
Great video as always!
Great video Jim. I didnt know to grease the face of the piston. I think you should have put anti-sieze on the axle flange so it comes off easier the next time. Sometimes the rotors weld themselves to the flanges and are very difficult to remove.
I replacing the rear brake pads and rotors but U ended up replacing the rotors only. Cs I didnt have the special tool to compress the piston
thanks a lot, nice vid
You for got to mention the lil star screw that helps hold the rotor you have to take that out
Interesting how the frame of the video is bouncing all over the place
Woww thank you so so much sir👏👏
i like that light tap and bolts are loose lol
Thanks for watching
@@jimthecarguy what about using impact wrench? i tried breaker and nothing, quiet rusted.. thanks!
I don't understand how the emergency brake works??
Thanks
Welcome
googletube has too damn many commercials.
Great video but what a piece of crap engineering from Ford on the caliper! How many years have pistons not needed any special tools other than a C clamp or pry bar and old pads! You did a good job explaining this process though.
You don’t need that special tool you guys can use a clamp tool he’s just over exaggerating
Goodluck with that you idiot.
You actually do need the tool for these brakes. This piston has to turn and push at the same time in order to go in. Not like other vehicles where it just has to push in.
@cuznl3343 I don't think you do. If it twists to go in that means it would have to have something to twist it while the brakes are being applied in order for them to work right? I had a car with these pistons and I just used the old brake pad and a c-clamp.