Good review! Helpful highlighting of the standings of the specifications, and the basic answers that we all look for "Is this the meter for me?", a clear indicator of what doesn't meet the need, and what may not meet the value, to identify that sweets spot of "right tool, right price"! Thanks!
I appreciate your straight to the point approach no annoying music. I thought about replacing my 25 year old Triplett meter mainly because the poor battery design drives me crazy. To change the batteries you have to disassemble the back in the process the key pad falls out and the dial can become misaligned . Took me 20 minutes for a simple battery change... Since I don't do sensitive electronics probably anything would do. I mainly check voltage of batteries to know when they are no longer good. Often they go when stored too long. I was thinking of getting Fluke entry level meter because I only do voltage and continuity tests and don't do serious electronics. I like the small size and simple design.
No, the Fluke 117 does not have microamp and milliamp ranges on DC or AC. In electronics projects or repairs you may need accurate reading of small currents. Also the Fluke 117 does not measure temperature and you may need that for fixing or building anything that has higher current devices that might be running too hot. I have a 117 and will review it some time in the future. If you need to stay with Fluke the 87V for $433.25 is the lowest priced meter that has all the features you may need. If you need to stay in the same price catagory (Fluke 117: $234.05 at www.globaltestsupply.com), take a look at the EEVBlog Brymen BM786 for $195.45 AUD / $132.91 US or the Brymen BM789 for 158.82 EUR / $158.82 US, or the Brymen BM869s for $184.03 EUR / $202.78 US. I hope this helps.
Great review and great information however, I wish you included the Keysight U1253B and some others. some of the cheap meters I would not even review due to poor safety specs thanks 73s Mike
Wow, what an undertaking (and an expensive one too, depending on what you might be able to resell some of them on eBay for.) I already have a pair of good 50k-count Flukes and a mess of 3 1/2 and 4 1/2 digit meters, but I’m looking forward to your 20k and particularly 50k count models. Great work, thanks! ==> One thing I and I think others would like to see would be to open them up and look at the physical layout of the connectors with an eye to high-voltage safety. If they aren’t certified, it’s likely that they have poor layout with inadequate isolation between the inputs, but it’s possible that some might be better than others. (Of course you can only trust them if they’ve been third-party tested, but it’d be interesting to see how good or bad the isolation actually is. - And even for the 3rd-party rated ones, there’s bound to be some better or worse than others.) (BTW, you mentioned a review of LCR meters, but I can’t find it on this channel.)
I have not gotten the the LCR meters yet. This project is taking much longer than I thought it would. It is beyond my ability to judge safety of these meters, I will leave that up to Joe Smith and Dave Jones.
Good review! Helpful highlighting of the standings of the specifications, and the basic answers that we all look for "Is this the meter for me?", a clear indicator of what doesn't meet the need, and what may not meet the value, to identify that sweets spot of "right tool, right price"! Thanks!
Great video, lot's of good information there. I love your lighting setup for the individual meter shots. I could cleary see the details.
I appreciate your straight to the point approach no annoying music.
I thought about replacing my 25 year old Triplett meter mainly because the poor battery design drives me crazy. To change the batteries you have to disassemble the back in the process the key pad falls out and the dial can become misaligned . Took me 20 minutes for a simple battery change... Since I don't do sensitive electronics probably anything would do. I mainly check voltage of batteries to know when they are no longer good. Often they go when stored too long. I was thinking of getting Fluke entry level meter because I only do voltage and continuity tests and don't do serious electronics. I like the small size and simple design.
Thanks. I hope you are able to find the meter that meets your needs.
Great work and the detail is very helpful.
Thanks!
How does say a Brymen 786 compare to a Fluke 87V? I know it is a higher count meter but wondering if it is possible to compare.
I had a 139S some time ago. LCD EBTN is a nice gadget, but in my opinion it drains the batteries too quickly, that's why I switched to 61E+ 😁
And in electronics, would 117 fluke be suitable?
No, the Fluke 117 does not have microamp and milliamp ranges on DC or AC. In electronics projects or repairs you may need accurate reading of small currents. Also the Fluke 117 does not measure temperature and you may need that for fixing or building anything that has higher current devices that might be running too hot. I have a 117 and will review it some time in the future. If you need to stay with Fluke the 87V for $433.25 is the lowest priced meter that has all the features you may need. If you need to stay in the same price catagory (Fluke 117: $234.05 at www.globaltestsupply.com), take a look at the EEVBlog Brymen BM786 for $195.45 AUD / $132.91 US or the Brymen BM789 for 158.82 EUR / $158.82 US, or the Brymen BM869s for $184.03 EUR / $202.78 US. I hope this helps.
Great review and great information however, I wish you included the Keysight U1253B and some others. some of the cheap meters I would not even review due to poor safety specs
thanks 73s Mike
what about fluke 289? is it better than fluke 87V?
Wow, what an undertaking (and an expensive one too, depending on what you might be able to resell some of them on eBay for.)
I already have a pair of good 50k-count Flukes and a mess of 3 1/2 and 4 1/2 digit meters, but I’m looking forward to your 20k and particularly 50k count models.
Great work, thanks!
==> One thing I and I think others would like to see would be to open them up and look at the physical layout of the connectors with an eye to high-voltage safety. If they aren’t certified, it’s likely that they have poor layout with inadequate isolation between the inputs, but it’s possible that some might be better than others. (Of course you can only trust them if they’ve been third-party tested, but it’d be interesting to see how good or bad the isolation actually is. - And even for the 3rd-party rated ones, there’s bound to be some better or worse than others.)
(BTW, you mentioned a review of LCR meters, but I can’t find it on this channel.)
I have not gotten the the LCR meters yet. This project is taking much longer than I thought it would. It is beyond my ability to judge safety of these meters, I will leave that up to Joe Smith and Dave Jones.
👍👍
wish I was rich