At 16:27 Bill mentions an intriguing unit. I have been using a low cost Windows software scope, it it does reasonably well for my needs. (reading stepper motor pulses etc)
I made the mistake of buying an expensive scope before I knew how to use it and ended up donating a hantek, tektronix and siglent before I settled on a rigol mso5354. The rigol 1050z is the best bang for buck. It's 400 and all any hobbyist will need unless they got into ham radio or audio and need a spectrum analyzer. They cost a fortune, I can't pull the plug on 2600 for a cheap one.... Most scopes can be hacked too with firmware mods because the companies hide features behind expensive software keys. It's super easy to mod them if you check eevblog. The guys on there are geniuses. I won't even comment and pretty well read and educated for software engineering. Electronic engineering is a hobby, I'm 45 and retired though so I might get an ee degree because my other degree has 3 terms of courses that carry over. Bucket list thing. I read textbooks now as youtube has petered out for me haha. Bored and retired. You're smart for starting with a lower cost one. The picoscope is an awesome usb scope. My buddy works for nasa and he loves his cheap one. If you guys need any free components or anything just email me. I have too much stuff and enjoy sharing. Postage on me.
Thanks. I have compared a Fluke to a Beckman knockoff and they agree with in about a tenth of a value. I try to find very expensive meters at pawn shops for pennys on a Dollar. My skill level does not require the accuracy that I enjoy but thanks to you, my skill level is improving.
Fantastic tutorial on a crucial tool for anyone interested in electronics! I’ve been using DMMs for years but learned many new things from the video. Thanks!
9:15 I've got a pair of those SMD tweezers too but I found that the ones that i got were terrible. Oftentimes they wouldn't measure correctly probably due to low quality wiring inside of the tweezers. Make sure you check them before you trust them!
Agreed. I threw a set away and another came in a kit with a flir meter so I kept that and gave away the meter to a family member. Flir own so many dmm brands now.
Well explained and informative video. Also we are waiting for esp32 ethernet comminucaiton with IO control hope you share information about that situation.
Great explanation on the basic functions of multi meter. Some thing to consider 26:11 in a non faulted AC circuit you should read 0v as shown. But in a ground fault situation you will get leakage current reading on the ground wire. When you do see current reading on the ground wire, the (ground current + neutral current = hot wire current). So in other words if you clamp around the neutral inground at the same time. You get a reading equal to the hotwire . But to reading leakage current in most situations requires a dedicated leakage current meter to read. I know this is a little advanced but ground faults can occur easily without knowing its occurring. But a UNI-T UT210E is a great alternative to a dedicated leakage current meter. I highly recommend anyone looking for an AC/DC clamp meter for measuring (2amps or less) low current applications check the UT-210E (Make sure its “E” model ) out. You can find them in the sub $50 range. I’ve been carrying this meter daily for about 4 or 5 years now for current measurement. Its not my main multimeter. But I use it in industrial environment and never had any issues with it.
Something I don't think was mentioned was that there can be differences in the probes (& their wires) themselves. I recently purchased a new multimeter, & decided to get a pair of Probe Master probes for the new meter, and I LOVE them + recommend them to anyone. Aside from the probes, GREAT VIDEO 👍👍👌 Very informational - thanks!!
I'll second the recommendation for Probe Master test leads. Where I really noticed the difference was in continuity mode on an old and cheap meter; with the Probe Master leads, it became quite a bit more responsive. Coupled with a newer (but still inexpensive) meter, they are amazing. You can also notice the difference when doing measurements of very small resistances, where the leads themselves can introduce some error.
Bill, your videos are a boon to the human race. I've been watching your videos since college, and even now as a mechanical engineer, I still watch your videos!
Love your vids and other arduino related vid. But I have a question, I am a begginer student in electronic engineering (first year, second semester). Currently, I am using an analog multimeter I bought at DIY store (lol). So, now I am in the market for a new DMM. After watching this video, I really like the FNIRSI 3-in-1 Multimeter,Osciloscope and signal generator because it is like the whole lab in a single pocket size device. As a student, this will be very useful to bring anywhere, ie: I can bring it back home, my faculty and even fit my small dorm room. At the same time I dont have to buy other device like osciloscope and wave generator. I would probably used this to learn some basic component like opamp or transistor, with the built in wave generator, this would be very useful. Other than that, I would also use this for arduino project. My question is, it is appropriate for me to buy this? I don't mind investing a lot in my interest as long as It can accelerate my learning. Or there is th other better or even cheaper alternative I can buy? Thank for answering my question.
One little point that may help people. If you do blow the current range fuse, you can not fit any old fuse of the same current rating. You need a specific high rupture capacity (HRC) fuse. I know I've done it. I always like to upgrade my leads occasionally due to wear and tear in a toolbox. Overall, it's a good video.
Very good video, as usual. I have a very nice and reliable analog meter that I use to 'verify' my copious collection of digital multimeters. It is also easier to 'see' small fluctuations in current in and amperage in a circuit.
One thing to be aware of is that accuracy will depend on the battery level of some multimeters. In fact counterintuitively, your voltage readings will be too high if the battery on your multimeter is low. This tripped me up for a while when I was trying to measure the voltage of a battery for an IoT device and couldn't figure out why it wasn't working.
I really enjoy you videos. About a year ago you made a workshop power supply and powered it with an old 19v 4a laptop power supply. Would the components in that unit be able to output 20,000v?
id love to see a video on the milk v duo! its quite the powerful machine as a blend of mcu and sbc. There simply arent that many good videos out on it, keep up the good work!
Fluke guarantees their values for like 25 years. That's why it's so expensive. You can use them decades on the same equipment and expect same output. Other than that guarantee, they're not the highest accuracy and they're not the largest feature set. For the hobbyist I always recommend get something else. Get a calibration circuit.
@@gg-gn3re But prior to that make sure your low-cost multimeter has some sort of calibration inside. Could be trimpots, could be a menu option for offsets. This Fluke has probably never been properly calibrated.
15:40 you should keep in mind that when testing for continuity, you are injecting a (low) voltage into the circuit you are probing. If there are delicate components, like precicion analog sensors, you could damage them when simply poking around. at least you should try to keep an eye on the polarity. It won't be critical for hobby electronics, though.
Would you please make a detailed video on ESP 32 - 2432S028 or ESP CYD (Cheap Yellow Display) how to use LVGL and squireline studio ? Like you did with Arduino Giga display.
Hey Bill. I was wondering if you could help with a project I've been stuck on. I have two yumo rotary encoders attached two DC motors. Connected to a sabertooth 2x32 motor controller. I want to do a simple code that I can build off of for automation. The code would be simple directions and stop. Example: Forward 2 feet, stop. Reverse 2 feet, stop. Left turn 2 feet, stop. Right turn 2 feet, stop. From there I should be able to build the code I want. Just having trouble getting everything together. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. A wiring schematic or diagram, plus dip switch layout would be greatly appreciated. Do you have an email? We can discuss compensation.
Of the several I have; I have one that is VOM, Freq., Temp., Transistor and Oscilloscope that I use most! I've never been impressed with Fluke, and these test show why!
Awwww.... We built the internet. But that is still not enough. We have to provide specific links for everything. Links for products you will NEVER touch in your life.
Great video. I must be going blind. I could make out the names on the Fluke and the bench top but i couldn't make out the others. Could you give us a list please? Thanks
From what I can see, some things were still blurry for me, hopefully if someone spots an error, they will post a correction. Kaiweets HT118A Owon XDM1041 Benchtop Finrsi 2C23T Scope Harbotest 208D Clamp Meter Proster BM4070 LCR Fluke 158+
I would disagree with you about analogue meters. Although digital is more common in the hobbiest/maker space in professional use there are definitely many many uses for analogue meters over digital, especially when you need a really high input impedance. I still regularly use my analogue VTVM due to that reason, even on modern electronics. Aside from that, great video and informative.
Are there any multimeters that measure both voltage and current AT THE SAME TIME? I understand that this would probably require another connection, some of the circuitry would have to be duplicated, plus the display would have to be capable of showing two numbers. But it sure would be useful...
No multimeters can do the job that you ask. Dual Volt Amp Meter can do the job, although it is not multimeter and it is for constant 24/7 monitoring of both DC voltage and current between 0-100V and require 5-30V DC input. That is as far as I can think of. The lab oscilloscope can also measure both voltage and current by using different channel. But oscilloscope like this is an expensive device with price above $1000.
Kindly Explain and Test the below testing equipment. 1.Dual Power Supply Model -Scientific PSD3203. 2.Spectrum Analyzer Model -Scientific SMS3032X-TG. 3.Arbitrary Waveform Generator Model -Scientific SMG1022F. 4.Digital Storage Oscilloscope Model-Scientific SM01104E. 5.Digital Multimeter Model -Scientific SMM5065. 6.LCR Meter Model-Scientific SM6019. 7.Function Generator Counter Model -Scientific SM5078A.
I've been using a $5 MM, and it has lasted quite a few years, but I've had to do a few re-soldering of the test leads. Other than that, the internal electronics are okay.
Actually there is a few other functions meters do Micro Amp NCV Live detection Phase Rotation Transistor test IR température Thermal Camera Lux Meter DB Meter The 5 last are very rare. But they do exist. Also there are ways to add a clamp in some models...
For a home electronics lab, sure, many multimters will do. For higher energy circuits, I'd suggest getting something that has proper input protection and fuses. There are other professions where multimeters need to be calibrated at intervals. Or procedures are written using a specific meter, and those manuals need to be valid for as long as possible. This is where expensive Fluke meters come in.
Could you please do a video on how to protect your pc usb-port from short circuit. It doesn't matter how skilled you are, sooner or later mr Murphy will pay you a visit when you least expect it. Things that should not happen that let the magic smoke out and even damage your computer. Are there any devices that cuts the power when this happens?
Interesting video, well done as usual. It refreshed my mind about the Adafruit LM4040 circuit that I did not have a chance to use until now. My best DMM is a Metrix DMM220, I was happy to see that it agrees with the Adafruit 2.048 and 4.096 reference voltage. Now this being said, to assess a 0.1% accuracy measurement tool you would need a reference with 0.01 % accuracy.. the Adafruit circuit lacks this accuracy.. Another way is to send your multimeter out have it calibrated by a reference lab
It's because of the transformer. When the current increase, the voltage decrease due to resistive and magnetic losses. The same phenomenon occurs with the internal resistivity of a battery. That's why it's important to add some voltage regulation in many electronic circuits.
@@PainterVierax I see, so the voltage shooting up by 2v has nothing to do with the forward voltage (2v) of the LED, correct ? Also, of my understanding is correct, how can such a small load of 20mA cause an overall drop of 2v at the supply level ?!
@@algre977 The fwd voltage being the same is pure coincidence. The same would have occurred with any other diode or a couple of them in series. The load is only dictated by the constant current circuitry (the resistance+potentiometer). By removing the led, components in series are in an open circuit and the tiny remaining load is just due to the high impedance of the voltmeter. For a usual 10Mohm device with a 10V source (a bit overestimated to simplify the calculation) the charge is only 1nA. On the other end, 20mA is not a lot but it's enough for the small transformer to not be able to rely only on em and capacitive noises leaking to the secondary. Try this experiment yourself if you want.
my take on the matter: almost any standard multimeter is fit enough for normal private lab use. what I am considering after decades of using multimeters is usability. handyness if you like. e. g. I'll never ever again use turning-dial models... and then there was strip flexibility and weight...
you can do that on some cheaper ones but it really depends on the whole circuit. Sometimes there is just a single trimpot, sometimes 2 or 3. But yeah this Fluke definitively needs to be calibrated.
I have thousands of dollars worth of multimeters but I always reach for the kaiweets clamp over my fluke clamp when I'm installing fixtures. My favorite one is the brymen bm869s with a set of probemasters when building circuits. I have some decent bench gear for sale if anyone is in canada and wants a decent deal. I used to donate them but it turned into a collection of different types and such. I had that owon bench meter and hated it. The thing was too light and took too long to take readings. I sent it back. That's a cheap fluke that was made for the Chinese market. Cleaning cheap probe tips with isopropyl alcohol make a massive difference in response time.
What no harbor freight special $1.99 ? I too have many meters but find myself using it as much as the rest. After new test leads, it's about as accurate.
Bill, Dave at EEVBlog did a video entitled "eevBLAB 91 - Why Are Fluke Meters So EXPENSIVE?" . If memory serves, it's because Industry needs the reliability that they can depend on. I'm sure he gave more info than what I typed out of my foggy memory. ;) I think I'll look at the prices of some of your meters now!
Fluke is “expensive” because government test procedures are wrote based on the use of specific models/ features of fluke and Tektronix test equipment. It would take decades to rewrite the documents. So the government pays a premium for fluke to continue manufacturing out dated meters. Fluke does make rugged test equipment and I own lots of fluke multi meters. But they are now only pulled out for sanity checks. Because most other brands have better feature sets and less expensive than fluke at this day and time. When measuring voltages over 600V I do prefer fluke because I feel they do have a slightly safer front end.
I just threw my "free" Harbor Freight Cen-tec multimeter in the trash and ordered a new AstoAI from Amazon. On sale 20% off. Anything will be better than that Cen-tec POS. I do not needa fancy expensive Fluke or the like. $40 bucks is fine. HF gives those cheapo ones away for free with coupons sometimes. Do not bother. 😂
Awesome showcase on use and quality! One of my, hands down, favorite channels on RUclips! You’re an invaluable resource.
Would love to see something similar for oscilloscopes
At 16:27 Bill mentions an intriguing unit. I have been using a low cost Windows software scope, it it does reasonably well for my needs. (reading stepper motor pulses etc)
I made the mistake of buying an expensive scope before I knew how to use it and ended up donating a hantek, tektronix and siglent before I settled on a rigol mso5354. The rigol 1050z is the best bang for buck. It's 400 and all any hobbyist will need unless they got into ham radio or audio and need a spectrum analyzer. They cost a fortune, I can't pull the plug on 2600 for a cheap one....
Most scopes can be hacked too with firmware mods because the companies hide features behind expensive software keys. It's super easy to mod them if you check eevblog. The guys on there are geniuses. I won't even comment and pretty well read and educated for software engineering. Electronic engineering is a hobby, I'm 45 and retired though so I might get an ee degree because my other degree has 3 terms of courses that carry over. Bucket list thing. I read textbooks now as youtube has petered out for me haha. Bored and retired.
You're smart for starting with a lower cost one. The picoscope is an awesome usb scope. My buddy works for nasa and he loves his cheap one.
If you guys need any free components or anything just email me. I have too much stuff and enjoy sharing. Postage on me.
Thanks.
I have compared a Fluke to a Beckman knockoff and they agree with in about a tenth of a value. I try to find very expensive meters at pawn shops for pennys on a Dollar. My skill level does not require the accuracy that I enjoy but thanks to you, my skill level is improving.
I always enjoy the flow of the videos and layout. Very professional and to the point.
Fantastic tutorial on a crucial tool for anyone interested in electronics! I’ve been using DMMs for years but learned many new things from the video. Thanks!
9:15 I've got a pair of those SMD tweezers too but I found that the ones that i got were terrible. Oftentimes they wouldn't measure correctly probably due to low quality wiring inside of the tweezers. Make sure you check them before you trust them!
Agreed. I threw a set away and another came in a kit with a flir meter so I kept that and gave away the meter to a family member. Flir own so many dmm brands now.
Thank you for taking the time to do this video! Much appreciated
תודה!
Thank you!
Well explained and informative video. Also we are waiting for esp32 ethernet comminucaiton with IO control hope you share information about that situation.
Great explanation on the basic functions of multi meter.
Some thing to consider 26:11 in a non faulted AC circuit you should read 0v as shown. But in a ground fault situation you will get leakage current reading on the ground wire. When you do see current reading on the ground wire, the (ground current + neutral current = hot wire current). So in other words if you clamp around the neutral inground at the same time. You get a reading equal to the hotwire . But to reading leakage current in most situations requires a dedicated leakage current meter to read.
I know this is a little advanced but ground faults can occur easily without knowing its occurring.
But a UNI-T UT210E is a great alternative to a dedicated leakage current meter.
I highly recommend anyone looking for an AC/DC clamp meter for measuring (2amps or less) low current applications check the UT-210E (Make sure its “E” model ) out. You can find them in the sub $50 range. I’ve been carrying this meter daily for about 4 or 5 years now for current measurement. Its not my main multimeter. But I use it in industrial environment and never had any issues with it.
Something I don't think was mentioned was that there can be differences in the probes (& their wires) themselves.
I recently purchased a new multimeter, & decided to get a pair of Probe Master probes for the new meter, and I LOVE them + recommend them to anyone.
Aside from the probes, GREAT VIDEO 👍👍👌
Very informational - thanks!!
I'll second the recommendation for Probe Master test leads. Where I really noticed the difference was in continuity mode on an old and cheap meter; with the Probe Master leads, it became quite a bit more responsive. Coupled with a newer (but still inexpensive) meter, they are amazing. You can also notice the difference when doing measurements of very small resistances, where the leads themselves can introduce some error.
@@markday3145 perfectly put!👍👍👌
Professionell wie immer. Ohne überflüssige Hintergrund musik. Ich schaue mir gerne an.
You are great. Your vídeos are so complete.
Appreciated your educational video. It saves us some costly money, sir!
Quite a collection of instruments. Great video. This took a while to film, I'm sure.
Bill, your videos are a boon to the human race. I've been watching your videos since college, and even now as a mechanical engineer, I still watch your videos!
I'm working through eect and your channel is priceless. Always enjoy your content, my teacher does too 😅
Another excellent video. I learn new stuff with every video.
Love your vids and other arduino related vid. But I have a question, I am a begginer student in electronic engineering (first year, second semester). Currently, I am using an analog multimeter I bought at DIY store (lol). So, now I am in the market for a new DMM. After watching this video, I really like the FNIRSI 3-in-1 Multimeter,Osciloscope and signal generator because it is like the whole lab in a single pocket size device. As a student, this will be very useful to bring anywhere, ie: I can bring it back home, my faculty and even fit my small dorm room. At the same time I dont have to buy other device like osciloscope and wave generator.
I would probably used this to learn some basic component like opamp or transistor, with the built in wave generator, this would be very useful. Other than that, I would also use this for arduino project. My question is, it is appropriate for me to buy this? I don't mind investing a lot in my interest as long as It can accelerate my learning. Or there is th other better or even cheaper alternative I can buy? Thank for answering my question.
One little point that may help people. If you do blow the current range fuse, you can not fit any old fuse of the same current rating. You need a specific high rupture capacity (HRC) fuse. I know I've done it. I always like to upgrade my leads occasionally due to wear and tear in a toolbox. Overall, it's a good video.
What happens if you replaced a fuse with a cheaper low rupture capacity one?
@@aspzx It arcs and you can be in big trouble. Don't use the glass fuses for such main voltage equipment.
Hello, your videos and presentations are very good! Could you tell me which program is best to use to create such presentations?
Very good video, as usual. I have a very nice and reliable analog meter that I use to 'verify' my copious collection of digital multimeters. It is also easier to 'see' small fluctuations in current in and amperage in a circuit.
One thing to be aware of is that accuracy will depend on the battery level of some multimeters. In fact counterintuitively, your voltage readings will be too high if the battery on your multimeter is low. This tripped me up for a while when I was trying to measure the voltage of a battery for an IoT device and couldn't figure out why it wasn't working.
I really enjoy you videos.
About a year ago you made a workshop power supply and powered it with an old 19v 4a laptop power supply. Would the components in that unit be able to output 20,000v?
id love to see a video on the milk v duo! its quite the powerful machine as a blend of mcu and sbc. There simply arent that many good videos out on it, keep up the good work!
Great work Bill!
Another excellent video, thank you Bill!
My old Wavetek measured inductance as well. Any decent ones that do that?
Excellent video. Learned a lot. Just one nitpick: 1% of 10k is 100, not 10 (47:00).
Great video, thanks! just blew up my meter so I am shopping now. LOL!
So Fluke is the biggest fluke in voltage accuracy test 😂 Thank you! Always wanted a fluke but now I’ll stick to my cheap multimeter.
Fluke guarantees their values for like 25 years. That's why it's so expensive. You can use them decades on the same equipment and expect same output. Other than that guarantee, they're not the highest accuracy and they're not the largest feature set. For the hobbyist I always recommend get something else. Get a calibration circuit.
@@gg-gn3re But prior to that make sure your low-cost multimeter has some sort of calibration inside. Could be trimpots, could be a menu option for offsets.
This Fluke has probably never been properly calibrated.
How about the old Simpson 250? What is your opinion of it?
your videos are wonderful and appreciated
15:40 you should keep in mind that when testing for continuity, you are injecting a (low) voltage into the circuit you are probing. If there are delicate components, like precicion analog sensors, you could damage them when simply poking around. at least you should try to keep an eye on the polarity. It won't be critical for hobby electronics, though.
hence why some hobbyists made ultra low voltage continuity testers.
What software do you use to create your video's?
Would you please make a detailed video on ESP 32 - 2432S028 or ESP CYD (Cheap Yellow Display) how to use LVGL and squireline studio ? Like you did with Arduino Giga display.
Hey Bill. I was wondering if you could help with a project I've been stuck on. I have two yumo rotary encoders attached two DC motors. Connected to a sabertooth 2x32 motor controller. I want to do a simple code that I can build off of for automation. The code would be simple directions and stop. Example: Forward 2 feet, stop. Reverse 2 feet, stop. Left turn 2 feet, stop. Right turn 2 feet, stop. From there I should be able to build the code I want. Just having trouble getting everything together. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. A wiring schematic or diagram, plus dip switch layout would be greatly appreciated. Do you have an email? We can discuss compensation.
Thx for informations! I'm gonna buy soon a multimeter, so this video helped me. 😊
Of the several I have; I have one that is VOM, Freq., Temp., Transistor and Oscilloscope that I use most! I've never been impressed with Fluke, and these test show why!
Fluke's success is a fluke?
@@dennisestenson7820 - If you say so.
Another great video, very informative :)
Excellent information!
5:01 high quality needs one is enough for.
Awesome comparison
I love your video but please provide all instruments used in video and where to buy all this please
Awwww.... We built the internet. But that is still not enough. We have to provide specific links for everything. Links for products you will NEVER touch in your life.
Great video. I must be going blind. I could make out the names on the Fluke and the bench top but i couldn't make out the others.
Could you give us a list please?
Thanks
At 56:00 they're pretty easy to read.
@@gg-gn3reNope. Maybe I should look at this on my computer rather than my phone. All I'm seeing is fuzz. Could be these old eyes as well 😂
From what I can see, some things were still blurry for me, hopefully if someone spots an error, they will post a correction.
Kaiweets HT118A
Owon XDM1041 Benchtop
Finrsi 2C23T Scope
Harbotest 208D Clamp Meter
Proster BM4070 LCR
Fluke 158+
@@frankfaubert1927yea makes sense you can't see it on a phone.. lmao. They're crisp and easy to see on a real device.
I would disagree with you about analogue meters. Although digital is more common in the hobbiest/maker space in professional use there are definitely many many uses for analogue meters over digital, especially when you need a really high input impedance. I still regularly use my analogue VTVM due to that reason, even on modern electronics.
Aside from that, great video and informative.
Yes, analog does have applications that digital can not replicate.
Are there any multimeters that measure both voltage and current AT THE SAME TIME? I understand that this would probably require another connection, some of the circuitry would have to be duplicated, plus the display would have to be capable of showing two numbers. But it sure would be useful...
It's called 2 multimeters
@@MathewPanicker1010 Thanks for your AMAZINGLY helpful comment.
No multimeters can do the job that you ask. Dual Volt Amp Meter can do the job, although it is not multimeter and it is for constant 24/7 monitoring of both DC voltage and current between 0-100V and require 5-30V DC input. That is as far as I can think of.
The lab oscilloscope can also measure both voltage and current by using different channel. But oscilloscope like this is an expensive device with price above $1000.
Kindly Explain and Test the below testing equipment.
1.Dual Power Supply
Model -Scientific PSD3203.
2.Spectrum Analyzer
Model -Scientific SMS3032X-TG.
3.Arbitrary Waveform Generator
Model -Scientific SMG1022F.
4.Digital Storage Oscilloscope
Model-Scientific SM01104E.
5.Digital Multimeter
Model -Scientific SMM5065.
6.LCR Meter
Model-Scientific SM6019.
7.Function Generator Counter
Model -Scientific SM5078A.
Great work!!
Don’t ever play the drinking game when the word is “multimeter” and you just tuned into the drone bot workshop.
Usual, Great work ! Thanks !
Excellent, thanks.
You can also get AD584 chips for calibration, they're a few dollars. Makes cheap multimeters always worth it
They're 3 outputs
Is thermistor the same as thermocouple?
Thermistor resistance changes with temperature . Thermocouple outputs a voltage.
I've been using a $5 MM, and it has lasted quite a few years, but I've had to do a few re-soldering of the test leads. Other than that, the internal electronics are okay.
I just got 2 for about $2 each from Ali including postage.
I have several multimeters. get a AD584 calibration circuit and just use the cheap ones. Keep them calibrated every year or more.. simple
Actually there is a few other functions meters do
Micro Amp
NCV
Live detection
Phase Rotation
Transistor test
IR température
Thermal Camera
Lux Meter
DB Meter
The 5 last are very rare. But they do exist.
Also there are ways to add a clamp in some models...
Still using a plain old Fluke 77 bought in 1980 just probes and 9v batteries . Also own a rms clamp/temp/ dual meter, and snap on $350 for $65.
what can do with MBL8088 CPU
So a video on PCB design using kicad
good job
Thanks 4 allthings u do
For a home electronics lab, sure, many multimters will do.
For higher energy circuits, I'd suggest getting something that has proper input protection and fuses.
There are other professions where multimeters need to be calibrated at intervals. Or procedures are written using a specific meter, and those manuals need to be valid for as long as possible. This is where expensive Fluke meters come in.
Could you please do a video on how to protect your pc usb-port from short circuit. It doesn't matter how skilled you are, sooner or later mr Murphy will pay you a visit when you least expect it. Things that should not happen that let the magic smoke out and even damage your computer. Are there any devices that cuts the power when this happens?
Interesting video, well done as usual. It refreshed my mind about the Adafruit LM4040 circuit that I did not have a chance to use until now. My best DMM is a Metrix DMM220, I was happy to see that it agrees with the Adafruit 2.048 and 4.096 reference voltage. Now this being said, to assess a 0.1% accuracy measurement tool you would need a reference with 0.01 % accuracy.. the Adafruit circuit lacks this accuracy.. Another way is to send your multimeter out have it calibrated by a reference lab
Why did the voltage rise when you pulled the LED ? Shouldn't stay the same ?!
It's because of the transformer. When the current increase, the voltage decrease due to resistive and magnetic losses. The same phenomenon occurs with the internal resistivity of a battery.
That's why it's important to add some voltage regulation in many electronic circuits.
@@PainterVierax I see, so the voltage shooting up by 2v has nothing to do with the forward voltage (2v) of the LED, correct ? Also, of my understanding is correct, how can such a small load of 20mA cause an overall drop of 2v at the supply level ?!
@@algre977
The fwd voltage being the same is pure coincidence. The same would have occurred with any other diode or a couple of them in series. The load is only dictated by the constant current circuitry (the resistance+potentiometer).
By removing the led, components in series are in an open circuit and the tiny remaining load is just due to the high impedance of the voltmeter. For a usual 10Mohm device with a 10V source (a bit overestimated to simplify the calculation) the charge is only 1nA.
On the other end, 20mA is not a lot but it's enough for the small transformer to not be able to rely only on em and capacitive noises leaking to the secondary.
Try this experiment yourself if you want.
@@PainterVierax makes sense, many thanks for the thorough explanation!!
we want video like this for oscilloscope
my take on the matter: almost any standard multimeter is fit enough for normal private lab use. what I am considering after decades of using multimeters is usability. handyness if you like. e. g. I'll never ever again use turning-dial models... and then there was strip flexibility and weight...
Analog multi-meters Transporting us humans to the "moon and back"..
Thanks just what I needed
I have an AstroAI TRMS 6000 multimeter that look to be the same as your Kaiweets. Must be rebranded by multiple companies.
Your Fluke may be out of Calibration, and why it's not being as accurate.
Don't forget that you can calibrate the FLUKE multimeter to get a better accuracy even after years of daily use. Can't do that with cheaper ones.
you can do that on some cheaper ones but it really depends on the whole circuit. Sometimes there is just a single trimpot, sometimes 2 or 3.
But yeah this Fluke definitively needs to be calibrated.
love the channel but prefer projects!
I have thousands of dollars worth of multimeters but I always reach for the kaiweets clamp over my fluke clamp when I'm installing fixtures. My favorite one is the brymen bm869s with a set of probemasters when building circuits. I have some decent bench gear for sale if anyone is in canada and wants a decent deal. I used to donate them but it turned into a collection of different types and such.
I had that owon bench meter and hated it. The thing was too light and took too long to take readings. I sent it back.
That's a cheap fluke that was made for the Chinese market.
Cleaning cheap probe tips with isopropyl alcohol make a massive difference in response time.
Bill its my humble request you to complete the DB1 project iam waiting for another episode😢😢
Subbed
I can't believe that you don't have an 87V
Thanks for the content.
Keep up the good work.
בס'ד
Cute puppy
I bet it a big puppy now lol😂😂
Where’s the cheat sheet?
Not all multimeters take the banana clips, lol. Real handy having one odd meter out.
😊
How Accurate Is placing a decimal point... Where There Isn't one ..??? i Heard You say .., 600.80
About ADALM1000
What no harbor freight special $1.99 ? I too have many meters but find myself using it as much as the rest. After new test leads, it's about as accurate.
Bill, Dave at EEVBlog did a video entitled "eevBLAB 91 - Why Are Fluke Meters So EXPENSIVE?" . If memory serves, it's because Industry needs the reliability that they can depend on. I'm sure he gave more info than what I typed out of my foggy memory. ;)
I think I'll look at the prices of some of your meters now!
Fluke is “expensive” because government test procedures are wrote based on the use of specific models/ features of fluke and Tektronix test equipment. It would take decades to rewrite the documents. So the government pays a premium for fluke to continue manufacturing out dated meters. Fluke does make rugged test equipment and I own lots of fluke multi meters. But they are now only pulled out for sanity checks. Because most other brands have better feature sets and less expensive than fluke at this day and time.
When measuring voltages over 600V I do prefer fluke because I feel they do have a slightly safer front end.
Hilarious - I was just playing with my meters, this morning...
Best meter you can buy is the one harborfreight gives away for free...😅
I just threw my "free" Harbor Freight Cen-tec multimeter in the trash and ordered a new AstoAI from Amazon. On sale 20% off.
Anything will be better than that Cen-tec POS.
I do not needa fancy expensive Fluke or the like. $40 bucks is fine.
HF gives those cheapo ones away for free with coupons sometimes. Do not bother. 😂
🎉
You done mistake again and again by calling thermocouple to THERMISTOR
This guys slurring voice was totally annoying to listen to lol
Have a look at this MTester LCR-T4 see EEVblog #1020 - Is A $7 LCR / Component Tester Any Good?
it's just the chinese ripoff of a german opensource project. You can literally build one with an old Arduino and even apply some improvements.
תודה!
Thank You!