Another couple of tips, always buy from a reputable seller very important, also if "possible" take cutting from a very prolific portion of tree believe me that makes a very big difference. That is how the best of the best fig trees have survived and flourished for thousands of years (human selection). Just wanted to share! Best Wishes!
@@pjorge8363 I think in figs, people forget this advice and just root whatever. The cannabis folks certainly preach taking cuttings from strong branches that are filled with hormones.
I bought 4 cuttings from figBid last December not knowing anything. They were greenish brown. Only one rooted but died soon after. This October brought home 10 green cuttings from my parent’s fig tree in Philadelphia. All have rooted and have leaves. (I’m in California). Keeping them indoors hoping they don’t die. Your name is just too cool!!
Super helpful video. Wish I would have seen something like this when I first started. Even now that I have been in this fig hobby for almost 4 years, I found it very helpful!
I appreciate this video. As a brand new fig enthusiast, I am overwhelmed by figbid, and WHEN I should be buying cuttings. None of the sellers seem to say dormant or green but they do show pictures. Still a lignified new cutting looks like a dormant one (at least in pictures). Anyway, thanks for this tip. I'll be waiting until January:)
Thank you. This is all new to me. I typically find "volunteers" growing up around my fig trees. I stick the tiny shoots through the center hole in a black plastic pot and slowly add dirt all spring and by summer I've got a nice plant in a pot that well rooted. I cut them free from the ground with a saws all and either plant or give them away. Recently I've even weighted limbs to the ground with a block, covered the limb with dirt and get shoots with roots that way. What kind of method do you call what I'm doing?
I didn't know that i had to root unlignified cuttings immediately and put them in the fridge and tried to start them with all my other cuttings... they were shriveled after two months and died after planted. Good information you presented. I love your videos.
Good video I bought some olympian fig cuttings from Florida the first of November last year and wrapped them in plastic and put them in the refrigerator till I started them in February and they never showed any signs of life
Good video! I’ve been baffled by all the green cuttings that are listed for sale. I don’t know why people would buy them. Maybe I’m missing something, or maybe they just don’t know any better?
Great informative video. Thanks for sharing. I see some of your trees still have baby figlets, do you pinch those off? I have a Golden Ischia and RDB that were busy developing their root systems during the whole summer and just now putting on figlets. I’m not sure if I should pinch them off so they can focus on growing more. I’m in San Francisco, CA so the weather here is always cool. I’m new to growing figs and looking forward to learn from you. Thank you!
Hello. I enjoy your content but on this matter I respectfully disagree. There is some additional details that do affect success in rooting and of course the time when the cutting is harvested is key. A green or semi-lignified piece of wood collected in early fall and placed in storage until next year’s February or March is going to have a high chance of failure (mold growth, rot, dehydration, etc). However, a semi-lignified piece from a tree that is in winter storage is not the same thing. I have multiple years rooting figs and for me the key driver for success is harvesting the cutting no longer than a month before I plan on rooting it. I have had great success with both hardwood and semi-lignified cuttings. I actually have seen that the semi-lignified cutting is more active than some of the older wood. Most of my failures have come from thick hardwood cuttings, they are sluggish and lack vigor. For years I resisted the idea that this was possible. But year after year the trend is consistent. At the end the type of wood used is secondary to other key factors. Focus on when the cutting was harvested and when you plan to root, potting media used (inert pro-mix+osmocote), heating mats, and measuring how you water the rooting. Most failure comes from using cheap potting mix or media with all kind of garbage on it. Second is overwatering leading to rot, third is having too cold of temperature. Of course don’t buy cuttings in August or September if you plan on rooting them in February or March, that’s just asking for failure.
should i cut a fresh cut once i get a freshly cut fig cutting in the mail or is allowing a callouse layer benificial? is it ok to try and root as soon as i get cutting?
Ill be buying to many cuttings thaths for sure, somewhere around 40 diffrent varities. But im waiting a few more months till all the trees im buying them from are in a dormant state.
Just be sure to ask the seller if the cuttings are lignified and also dormant. If lignified and non-dormant, you need to root right away. For me I get cuttings in winter December/January and root and buy spring in April I can start to put outside. Idea is you don't want to have a growing tree in your house for more than the first 2-3 months max b/c of size constraints.
@thenotoriousfig ok great I will watch both places. I live close to you. I am just starting out with figs this year. I have 5 right now. No fruit this year, but I am going to put them in SIP next year (like you other video) and hope to get some figs to try next year.
No need to be snarky. But I'd say depending, out of 100 trees, maybe 15% show some. Heavy FMV will stunt growth. I have maybe 2 trees that I'd say are heavy fmv.
How many cuttings will you buy this year?
None...I got plenty of trees from a meet up with a great group of people. Great video and keep them coming.
Another couple of tips, always buy from a reputable seller very important, also if "possible" take cutting from a very prolific portion of tree believe me that makes a very big difference. That is how the best of the best fig trees have survived and flourished for thousands of years (human selection). Just wanted to share! Best Wishes!
@@pjorge8363 I think in figs, people forget this advice and just root whatever. The cannabis folks certainly preach taking cuttings from strong branches that are filled with hormones.
I bought 4 cuttings from figBid last December not knowing anything. They were greenish brown. Only one rooted but died soon after. This October brought home 10 green cuttings from my parent’s fig tree in Philadelphia. All have rooted and have leaves. (I’m in California). Keeping them indoors hoping they don’t die. Your name is just too cool!!
Super helpful video. Wish I would have seen something like this when I first started. Even now that I have been in this fig hobby for almost 4 years, I found it very helpful!
I appreciate this video. As a brand new fig enthusiast, I am overwhelmed by figbid, and WHEN I should be buying cuttings. None of the sellers seem to say dormant or green but they do show pictures. Still a lignified new cutting looks like a dormant one (at least in pictures). Anyway, thanks for this tip. I'll be waiting until January:)
Thank you. This is all new to me. I typically find "volunteers" growing up around my fig trees. I stick the tiny shoots through the center hole in a black plastic pot and slowly add dirt all spring and by summer I've got a nice plant in a pot that well rooted. I cut them free from the ground with a saws all and either plant or give them away. Recently I've even weighted limbs to the ground with a block, covered the limb with dirt and get shoots with roots that way. What kind of method do you call what I'm doing?
A smart method!! People do that with hydrangeas and so on.
It's called Layering
I didn't know that i had to root unlignified cuttings immediately and put them in the fridge and tried to start them with all my other cuttings... they were shriveled after two months and died after planted. Good information you presented. I love your videos.
Keep at it!
Saved me a ton of heartache. Thanks I had no idea.
After attempting to root more than 300 cuttings, I can confidently say THE THICKER THE BETTER!
actually after rooting on winter and rooting in summer using not dormant cuttings i have to say that its better to run in the summer
It’s all time dependent. Summer is so much less worry. Thanks!
Good video I bought some olympian fig cuttings from Florida the first of November last year and wrapped them in plastic and put them in the refrigerator till I started them in February and they never showed any signs of life
Good video Sir...We have seen and received our share of bad cuttings in the past. Keep educating the masses my friend!
Thank buddy .great 😊this information is priceless. Question: Where did you get your love of fig trees .mine was from my Italian dad .😊
It just started out of nowhere and got out of control lol
I live in a tropical country where it is humid n hot,so I don’t need dormancy…we can plant figs all year round,i have 90% success rooting cuttings
Some people are lucky!!
Good video! I’ve been baffled by all the green cuttings that are listed for sale. I don’t know why people would buy them. Maybe I’m missing something, or maybe they just don’t know any better?
Great informative video. Thanks for sharing. I see some of your trees still have baby figlets, do you pinch those off? I have a Golden Ischia and RDB that were busy developing their root systems during the whole summer and just now putting on figlets. I’m not sure if I should pinch them off so they can focus on growing more. I’m in San Francisco, CA so the weather here is always cool. I’m new to growing figs and looking forward to learn from you. Thank you!
yep go ahead and pinch off. I've just fallen behind pinching here. thanks!
Great video with good info on cuttings, thanks
Can I dig up some roots from my gone wild fig and replant . It’s just getting too big around . I’m trimming back to few canes as suggested .
If you follow a new trunk and dig out some roots, then you can replant that. Or you can put on air layers now and cut those off in 4-6 weeks.
Here in FL, fig trees don't go dormant. What happens in that scenario?
From what I've heard from other growers they take the cuttings as late as possible, late January maybe. The other issues about freshness still apply.
@@thenotoriousfig Ok. Thank you very much!
Do you have Ouriola or Ispilya?
Hello. I enjoy your content but on this matter I respectfully disagree. There is some additional details that do affect success in rooting and of course the time when the cutting is harvested is key. A green or semi-lignified piece of wood collected in early fall and placed in storage until next year’s February or March is going to have a high chance of failure (mold growth, rot, dehydration, etc). However, a semi-lignified piece from a tree that is in winter storage is not the same thing. I have multiple years rooting figs and for me the key driver for success is harvesting the cutting no longer than a month before I plan on rooting it. I have had great success with both hardwood and semi-lignified cuttings. I actually have seen that the semi-lignified cutting is more active than some of the older wood. Most of my failures have come from thick hardwood cuttings, they are sluggish and lack vigor. For years I resisted the idea that this was possible. But year after year the trend is consistent. At the end the type of wood used is secondary to other key factors. Focus on when the cutting was harvested and when you plan to root, potting media used (inert pro-mix+osmocote), heating mats, and measuring how you water the rooting. Most failure comes from using cheap potting mix or media with all kind of garbage on it. Second is overwatering leading to rot, third is having too cold of temperature. Of course don’t buy cuttings in August or September if you plan on rooting them in February or March, that’s just asking for failure.
It's difficult to go so in depth into every possible scenario in one video. I try to cover the broad strokes for people.
should i cut a fresh cut once i get a freshly cut fig cutting in the mail or is allowing a callouse layer benificial? is it ok to try and root as soon as i get cutting?
Great info thank you for sharing! Best Wishes!
Yap,i cuttings should be hard brown wood,the thicker the better with at least 6 nodes,plant them 3 nodes down n 3 nodes up..
Very good info! Thanks
Ill be buying to many cuttings thaths for sure, somewhere around 40 diffrent varities. But im waiting a few more months till all the trees im buying them from are in a dormant state.
Great information ❤
Wish I'd seen this 2 weeks ago.
I'm in southern hemisphere, I want to buy a cutting from Europe, when should I buy?
Just be sure to ask the seller if the cuttings are lignified and also dormant. If lignified and non-dormant, you need to root right away. For me I get cuttings in winter December/January and root and buy spring in April I can start to put outside. Idea is you don't want to have a growing tree in your house for more than the first 2-3 months max b/c of size constraints.
Do you ever sell any of your cuttings?
I might put some on figbid. I'll also probably do some giveaways here.
@thenotoriousfig ok great I will watch both places. I live close to you. I am just starting out with figs this year. I have 5 right now. No fruit this year, but I am going to put them in SIP next year (like you other video) and hope to get some figs to try next year.
@@CatalpaCreekFarm are you on the facebook Queen City Figs group?
Got ebay cheap cuttings. 2 months later nothing.
never buy fig cuttings off ebay. too many scammers and untrustworthy sellers
Wow, all your trees show heavy FMV. Just saying.
No need to be snarky. But I'd say depending, out of 100 trees, maybe 15% show some. Heavy FMV will stunt growth. I have maybe 2 trees that I'd say are heavy fmv.