I daily drive a 2.4 stock in a 04 V70 (286k). Fresh out of mech enginerding school I'm not modding I have student loans. Special spans of the check engine light being off at -30 f. Very informational even if you aren't modding. Thanks!
I purchased a 2007 V70R with a automatic transmission knowing it was the valve body was bad purchased around three years ago. I am going to do a manual six speed switch. But after working on the automatic it shift fairly well right now so I’m kind of waiting for it to go completely go out I’ve already put 15,000 miles on the automatic transmissionJust waiting for a good donor car.I have rebuilt a couple of the engines which are very interesting in design everything sandwich together. I really like all your videos you’re doing a great job.
I did one R with custom laser cut shims that push all the way in and then decked the block. My other engine build uses darton sleeves. One of the other keys in my opinion that you didn't mention, is a free flowing exhaust, there is a lot of room for improvement on the exhaust ports in the head.
never had a volvo but always thougbht these wagons and these motors were sofkn sick (and so sad we never got the hot fords w em in the states) suuper cool video sharing nuanced understanding of these motors that u and the volvo r community have learned over the decades tinkering and driving these :3
I have a 98 S70 T5M and LOVE it. I know you have a great car. Question about the shimming... Once you've shimmed it, there is no longer any space for metal expansion. This expansion space is such a big deal Honda has problems with their Civic Si's over it. You've jammed your engine up while cold, it'll have to warp at high temps now, right???? right???
Love 💕 your channel Robert sent me over however I had already subscribe to your channel 😃looking forward to seeing more great content from you! One Love 💕
Thanks for the info, no more 95 RON for me, 98 RON every time for peace of mind. My 04VR Auto has had an easy life, I’ve never got it to boost past 10psi, (changed a bunch of stuff searching for 15psi) a Volvo mechanic said some R’s just come that way, but I don’t think I believe that.
Hi William, my 04 auto was also a 10PSI car. Gustav gave me (for free) the 15 PSI stock tune and I paid to have the first and second gear torque limiter removed.. It was a great improvement.
That's crazy I got this symptoms on my 2.5T whit 209 HP I was wondering, if it was the headgasket, but got damit was I lucky that I sold it.. A new block would rect me!
I have an S60R and am planning to do this I'm just curious why he didn't just trim the parts of the feeler gauges that were too long and had to be bent?
ok, so shimming the block--- did they check the holes with a bore gauge before or after this 'mod'?? i didnt see it. how round are those holes now, and when hot? maybe this is a mod better suited for a machine shop while the engine is being correctly rebuilt
I doubt the force applied with a rubber mallet is enough to change cylinder wall shape. This is a common procedure in the Volvo world and doesn't seem to cause any negative effects. If your experience points otherwise post of a video!
Enjoying your videos, thanks for uploading! I am battling with the decision of keeping my 04 SR M66 or selling it. Bought it June 2019 and will hit 80k original mileage by this weekend. Absolutely love the car, it’s by far the nicest and most fun car I’ve ever owned, but I have a inkling that it’s got the common angle gear issue from the previous owner, which I didn’t know enough about to investigate until after owning the car for a few months. If I decide to keep the car I’ll definitely be fixing that issue, shimming the block, and going with a large FMIC as well as a tune. I overheard the forum member mention Gustav when talking about tunes. Did you go with one of his tunes, or perhaps a Hilton tune? I’m still not sure which I’d prefer to go with if I do end up going that route. Cheers!
Here is a thought. Disconnect all the hoses from the radiator and the heater core. Then using blue devil before the head gasket blows. I bet blue devil would seal that .035 passage. But who knows.
I don't really get the idea of fitting the shims that tight + adding silicone (which even adds more width to that shim). Another point - what's the thermal extension of aluminum (block) vs the shims (I recon these are from stainless steel) - because as far as I know, aluminium expands more than SSteel with rising temperatures, so doing it tight-fit might cause to piston seize - am I wrong ?
spot on, i thought the same too! i too felt .035 is way too thigh, adding sleeve sealant is good but with that sort of thigh fitness and thermal expansion you are asking for trouble as the cylinder bores will be under extreme stress..
What exactly do you mean by a rough cold start? My cold starts are fine but I do notice every time I start my car I have some vacuum and it’ll fluctuate for a split second on my boost gauge, I do have a shimmed block but I notice on my gauge it’ll go from -20 up to -10 and the go down to around -15
About to buy a 2004 V70R. Thank you for your informative shiming video. Wondering why Volvo cut these passages between the cylinders in the first place? With such a small amount of coolant passing through I can't imagine it made any significant difference in overall engine temp.
First of all, the R models were never meant to be modified or over tuned. The gap is there to help compensate with expansion and contraction. Also, who the hell hammers in a feeler gauge and says, "it fits?" The feeler gauge should easily slide through.
Great video.. what is he doing cleaning out the gaps to reach .35?.. I just rolled 198k hope mine looks like yours. I'm on the original un-shimmed block w/ factory detune which I think has saved the motor. Also driving it right is the key, love sub zero weather. Running the AC is a killer!!! With stock IC above 90 is a death sentance. I dont run ac unless I'm gonna cruise slow.. I always make sure to run the highest octane in the summer. And reset the ecu when I switch over from 89 in winter... untuned mind you.. hope to get a fmic soon.. but this car is soooooo much work man. Going on 4th year daily driving. 4 2 0 !
I have a v50 t5 B5254T3 engine. I don't know what to say about what you're doing. Those gaps there are to facilitate expansion. My advice would be to properly warm up the engine before driving it hard, always have good quality oil, and always make shure you have the correct amount of coolant. This engines are pretty sensible when it comes to coolant.
I have a stock c30 t5. Immaculate condition with 95k miles on the motor. Certian volvo guys have said you don't need to shim it at that milage as the liners have stretched?? Little confused. So thinking of just getting forged then I can run big power safely
Darton Sleeves > shims PRETTY VR tho, oh and do the do88 intercooler/radiator...than youll be extra cool too in the US, Hilton tunes will keep the p2r safely running for years.....and even now tuning p3's
may i ask why the shims are bend (z shape) in that particular form? Is it due to the way the coolant runs in the engine or? Just looks like some of them are blocking the coolant from bypassing towards the next cylinder in the row due to the (z shape) of the feeler gauges. Or?
Hi! I don't know much about Volvos, my brother has a 05R and I coming out from the Saab (my 05 Saab got totaled) community and now driving a Subaru legacy gt, I really don't know that much on this problems with the R motors, unless I missed it but, can you please tell what year is this most common? what's the average millage that it might happen to the motor? what will be the 1st most abvious thing when you get into the car and drive it with this cracked block? Sorry for the 100 questions but I will be looking at a R soon and I want to surprise my bro with it, this Rs R not cheap at all and hard to find. Thanks for the video
It's a common issue with all of the R model cars or 2.5l motors. According to forums and old timers I've talked to for some reason the 2.5s tend to blow out cylinder walls much more than the 2.0s or 2.3s. Believe it or not alot of people I've seen blow their 2.5l and swap in a 2.3l because they tend to be much more reliable although can't be pushed as much as the 2.5l. Good luck finding one! I lucked out finding one thru my work, they're rare cars but if you can find one run with it!!!
Meh... Combed through years of debates across multiple forums yet found no hard evidence it works. Just a bunch of back and forth "take my word for it" arguments alongside pictures of shimmed blocks, which prove nothing, and misleading info about the cost and ease of doing the modification. It is $20 but $200+-, does but doesn't work, shimmed blocks haven't but have cracked, is easy but hard to do yourself, etc. Researching this topic literally could not be a bigger waste of someones time! How in the hell has this still not been settled with hard data/evidence to support it 🤦🏼♂️Not even the shops selling shims stand behind it, offer a complete kit, or provide instructions on how to perform the modification. I can't decide rather to do it or not. Would pay someone to do it so I am not burned out before I start restoring the car but doubt anyone is around my area.
I like your detention explanation causing cracking but I don’t agree with shimming the block. There is no technical engineering data that supports that this application works. When the Swedish engineers designed this engine in the ‘80’s they designed in the slot between the cylinders to decrease head temperatures where it is most needed. Blocking that flow of coolant there will raise the temps in that area and may actually increase the chance of cracking. Believe me the engineers thought this through. I do think they made a mistake with boring the block from 2.4 to 2.5. Bottom line is these engines aren’t designed for 300+ hp, keep them stock, upgrade the intercooler and all is good.
Lol. You just never stop, do you. The Volvo R community has enjoyed their blocks NOT cracking after shimming them, but YES cracking WITHOUT shimming them. Stop shoving your dogma down everyone's throat. The engineers should have done more testing and removed the cut out when they bored the engines out to 2.5. Plenty of stock engines crack sleeves below 100K miles even with regular maintenance. That's a relative problem if you're an owner. And the shimming method mitigates that. For something so obvious, it's asinine to chase down a statistically supported data rabbit-hole. For controversial issues, sure. But this is pretty darn clear-cut.
Then explain why other manufacturers that use open deck blocks and don't have the split between cylinders don't have the same problems with cracked blocks?
@@CyclingSJH I can understand this. But what about 2.5 T engines they don't tend to crack so much or do they and as much as I know they are identical engines but the 2.5 T has a low pressure turbo and R engine has a high pressure turbo. That means that the block is good to around 250 hp stock.
Yikes! I'm cringing watching this as is I expect anyone who has been involved in engine design & engineering 😬... whacking some strips into interbore cooling passage that also stick out well into the coolant jacket right at at the hottest part of the cylinder. Can't see that having a major detrimental effect on coolant flow right in the most critical region... oh yeah that should do it 🤦♂️
I'm basing this off anecdotal evidence of the greater majority of the tuned Volvo R community. Other than your stance as a keyboard warrior, have you seen any evidence of this not working for R model Volvos? What fix do you recommend? Thank you for your input.
@@eurojulien it just kind of amuses me. There is an underlying sentiment on here that volvo engineering didn't do a good job. Achieving 90kw/l reliably in a mass produced engine to an acceptable cost back in this era is a real challenge. There would have been detailed FE analysis and test of the engine structure. Thermal analysis. CFD analysis. Engine dyno development testing. Engine dyno durability. The idea that volvo engineering should of just filled this coolant flow slot into make it better is pretty ridiculous!
@@nicktheengineer5976 Agreed, but how do you explain how many of these cars crack blocks on factory tunes/configurations? Have you taken a look at the darton sleeve solution, that also "closes" the deck.
@@eurojulien I cant make comment on what the failure is and why it occurs as I haven't got anything info to base it on. What I would say is the engine would have been designed to be robust to around 160000km at that rating. There could be some material/part variation that results in some earlier life failures on some engines. I can say with a fair degree of confidence that the engine is pretty unlikely to be robust to increased thermal loading and peak cylinder pressures that are inevitable from increasing the power output at a given engine speed.
@@eurojulien having different cylinder liners fitted that have been engineered for a higher rating is absolutely an option. How successful that is will of course depend on how well engineered they are. Typically aftermarket parts have way way less engineering as there is nowhere near the budget or expertise in an aftermarket supplier compared to a good EOM.
My preventative measure...DONT buy a Volvo! All the old RWD's never had these bs issues. I owned a 1990 760Turbo one of the best turbo Volvo's Ive ever owned. Hardy engine and zero over heating issues as well. This is nothing less than poor build quality. A shame Volvo went downhill once Ford got their paws into the company same goes for GM sinking Saab! Never had this issue with my turbo Saabs!
Poor build quality 😂 nothing to do with everyone wanting to get more power out of an engine that's over a decade old. Standard form these cars are fine.
All I can think about while looking at this engine bay is how easy the PCV breather box must be to get to with the whole head removed.
I daily drive a 2.4 stock in a 04 V70 (286k). Fresh out of mech enginerding school I'm not modding I have student loans. Special spans of the check engine light being off at -30 f. Very informational even if you aren't modding. Thanks!
I purchased a 2007 V70R with a automatic transmission knowing it was the valve body was bad purchased around three years ago. I am going to do a manual six speed switch. But after working on the automatic it shift fairly well right now so I’m kind of waiting for it to go completely go out I’ve already put 15,000 miles on the automatic transmissionJust waiting for a good donor car.I have rebuilt a couple of the engines which are very interesting in design everything sandwich together. I really like all your videos you’re doing a great job.
hows the car now? still around?
Superb video! Very clear explanation and demonstration. Thank you for your service to the Volvo community!
Neal's the man he's helped me alot on my build.
I did one R with custom laser cut shims that push all the way in and then decked the block. My other engine build uses darton sleeves. One of the other keys in my opinion that you didn't mention, is a free flowing exhaust, there is a lot of room for improvement on the exhaust ports in the head.
I matched up the ports to the gasket and saw what you mean, however the turbo manifold ports are the same size as the head ports.
@@eurojulien Yes, they are the same size, (small). I have a cnc ported cylinder head...
never had a volvo but always thougbht these wagons and these motors were sofkn sick (and so sad we never got the hot fords w em in the states)
suuper cool video sharing nuanced understanding of these motors that u and the volvo r community have learned over the decades tinkering and driving these :3
Great video! Appreciate the upload!
I have a 98 S70 T5M and LOVE it. I know you have a great car. Question about the shimming... Once you've shimmed it, there is no longer any space for metal expansion. This expansion space is such a big deal Honda has problems with their Civic Si's over it. You've jammed your engine up while cold, it'll have to warp at high temps now, right???? right???
Yep
if the shimming crowd could read this they'd be very upset
What a beauty..... sweet ride
Love 💕 your channel Robert sent me over however I had already subscribe to your channel 😃looking forward to seeing more great content from you!
One Love 💕
Thank you for sharing it’s a really informative video. Subscribed.
Thanks for the info, no more 95 RON for me, 98 RON every time for peace of mind. My 04VR Auto has had an easy life, I’ve never got it to boost past 10psi, (changed a bunch of stuff searching for 15psi) a Volvo mechanic said some R’s just come that way, but I don’t think I believe that.
Hi William, my 04 auto was also a 10PSI car. Gustav gave me (for free) the 15 PSI stock tune and I paid to have the first and second gear torque limiter removed.. It was a great improvement.
That's crazy I got this symptoms on my 2.5T whit 209 HP I was wondering, if it was the headgasket, but got damit was I lucky that I sold it.. A new block would rect me!
and that prevents the block from cracking (shimming) and do all volvo s60r models with 2.5l have the same shim plate size?
volvos are rad. The turbo wagons are sick. Im happy i dont have the turbo however for reliability issues
great info... little tip for viewers, play at 1.25x speed ha
Good info. I gotta do this soon. Thank you!
Me too. I've got a replacement motor for my S60 R and I was wondering what the proper way to shim was to prevent from cracking a block again.
Volvos are definitely more delicate than most people think.
P2 Chassis has more problems then people realize.
@TwinTurbo Ray The 850s didn’t have this issue too? You might be on to something cause my V90 has been flawless. But it only has 21k.
I have an S60R and am planning to do this I'm just curious why he didn't just trim the parts of the feeler gauges that were too long and had to be bent?
ok, so shimming the block--- did they check the holes with a bore gauge before or after this 'mod'?? i didnt see it. how round are those holes now, and when hot? maybe this is a mod better suited for a machine shop while the engine is being correctly rebuilt
I doubt the force applied with a rubber mallet is enough to change cylinder wall shape. This is a common procedure in the Volvo world and doesn't seem to cause any negative effects. If your experience points otherwise post of a video!
Great technical content. Thank you!
it doesn't happen on the 220 bhp 2litre , the liners are thicker thus better at dispersing the heat
Enjoying your videos, thanks for uploading! I am battling with the decision of keeping my 04 SR M66 or selling it. Bought it June 2019 and will hit 80k original mileage by this weekend. Absolutely love the car, it’s by far the nicest and most fun car I’ve ever owned, but I have a inkling that it’s got the common angle gear issue from the previous owner, which I didn’t know enough about to investigate until after owning the car for a few months. If I decide to keep the car I’ll definitely be fixing that issue, shimming the block, and going with a large FMIC as well as a tune. I overheard the forum member mention Gustav when talking about tunes. Did you go with one of his tunes, or perhaps a Hilton tune? I’m still not sure which I’d prefer to go with if I do end up going that route. Cheers!
Hi Rip City, I went with gustav (contrast), he's a great person to deal with.
is there a chance that doing this makes the cylinders out of round?
Here is a thought. Disconnect all the hoses from the radiator and the heater core. Then using blue devil before the head gasket blows. I bet blue devil would seal that .035 passage. But who knows.
How much does it cost to shim the block? Thanks for this awesome video!
I don't really get the idea of fitting the shims that tight + adding silicone (which even adds more width to that shim). Another point - what's the thermal extension of aluminum (block) vs the shims (I recon these are from stainless steel) - because as far as I know, aluminium expands more than SSteel with rising temperatures, so doing it tight-fit might cause to piston seize - am I wrong ?
spot on, i thought the same too! i too felt .035 is way too thigh, adding sleeve sealant is good but with that sort of thigh fitness and thermal expansion you are asking for trouble as the cylinder bores will be under extreme stress..
I had both a rad hose blow off and coolant coming out reservoir happened to be my radiator had a leak I would recommend checking that first
What exactly do you mean by a rough cold start? My cold starts are fine but I do notice every time I start my car I have some vacuum and it’ll fluctuate for a split second on my boost gauge, I do have a shimmed block but I notice on my gauge it’ll go from -20 up to -10 and the go down to around -15
About to buy a 2004 V70R. Thank you for your informative shiming video. Wondering why Volvo cut these passages between the cylinders in the first place?
With such a small amount of coolant passing through I can't imagine it made any significant difference in overall engine temp.
I would assume that one reason is that it’s for the cylinders to have room to expand.
Anyone know if I would have problems with a stock v70R block with 160k kms?
First of all, the R models were never meant to be modified or over tuned. The gap is there to help compensate with expansion and contraction. Also, who the hell hammers in a feeler gauge and says, "it fits?" The feeler gauge should easily slide through.
wonderful video. great info
Great video.. what is he doing cleaning out the gaps to reach .35?.. I just rolled 198k hope mine looks like yours. I'm on the original un-shimmed block w/ factory detune which I think has saved the motor. Also driving it right is the key, love sub zero weather. Running the AC is a killer!!! With stock IC above 90 is a death sentance. I dont run ac unless I'm gonna cruise slow.. I always make sure to run the highest octane in the summer. And reset the ecu when I switch over from 89 in winter... untuned mind you.. hope to get a fmic soon.. but this car is soooooo much work man. Going on 4th year daily driving. 4 2 0 !
This man looks a lot like the rapper Logic. 😂
I have a v50 t5 B5254T3 engine. I don't know what to say about what you're doing. Those gaps there are to facilitate expansion. My advice would be to properly warm up the engine before driving it hard, always have good quality oil, and always make shure you have the correct amount of coolant. This engines are pretty sensible when it comes to coolant.
I decided to do nothing. I now have a cracked block. Luckily, Elevate has open deck cylinder liners installed for $2200.
How much power can it handle after the shims?
Shims aren't a guarantee.
I've seen shimmed blocks still crack
450ish whp. 500 if you have a really healthy engine.
A lot of it depends on tune. If you're running a well sorted tune, i'm imagine 500 whp is doable.
Great colour👍👍👍
I have a stock c30 t5. Immaculate condition with 95k miles on the motor.
Certian volvo guys have said you don't need to shim it at that milage as the liners have stretched?? Little confused.
So thinking of just getting forged then I can run big power safely
I don't buy that personally.
Find a 2.3 and shim that to swap in, with a bigger turbo :D
But is it only the R models, or all 2.5T models? If only the R models, what sets the engines apart?
2.4 has thicker cylinder walls than the 2.5
@@djbuzzard how about the T5 trim? Can those come with 2.4L injection? If so, it seems it might be better to go with a T5 than the R.
Darton Sleeves > shims
PRETTY VR tho, oh and do the do88 intercooler/radiator...than youll be extra cool too
in the US, Hilton tunes will keep the p2r safely running for years.....and even now tuning p3's
What is the type of Permatex sealant that you used?
How much boost can u run with chims? Whats that chim sealer?
may i ask why the shims are bend (z shape) in that particular form? Is it due to the way the coolant runs in the engine or?
Just looks like some of them are blocking the coolant from bypassing towards the next cylinder in the row due to the (z shape) of the feeler gauges.
Or?
They wouldn't fit straight. Coolant can still travel below the shims
@@eurojulien thx for Reply. 👍
Hi! I don't know much about Volvos, my brother has a 05R and I coming out from the Saab (my 05 Saab got totaled) community and now driving a Subaru legacy gt, I really don't know that much on this problems with the R motors, unless I missed it but, can you please tell what year is this most common? what's the average millage that it might happen to the motor? what will be the 1st most abvious thing when you get into the car and drive it with this cracked block? Sorry for the 100 questions but I will be looking at a R soon and I want to surprise my bro with it, this Rs R not cheap at all and hard to find. Thanks for the video
It's a common issue with all of the R model cars or 2.5l motors. According to forums and old timers I've talked to for some reason the 2.5s tend to blow out cylinder walls much more than the 2.0s or 2.3s. Believe it or not alot of people I've seen blow their 2.5l and swap in a 2.3l because they tend to be much more reliable although can't be pushed as much as the 2.5l. Good luck finding one! I lucked out finding one thru my work, they're rare cars but if you can find one run with it!!!
Does this happen on the S60 2006 2.4 litre non turbo engine?
No only the S60 R
Wait! What did they used to shim the block? 35mm filler gauge shims?
Yes, stainless steel
If you put new sleeves (darton sleeves) do you still need to shim it or does this solve the problem and sleeves are not needed?
no need for shims if you have sleeves!
@@eurojulien thanks for the info. Can I do shims instead of sleeves?
@@dmcbuilds1891 if the block is still good, yes. if the block is cracked you have to replace it or do sleeves
big help thank you!
any guys know guys that install these darton sleeves.
i do have the 4t5 so i should be okay with what i will be pushing
Meh... Combed through years of debates across multiple forums yet found no hard evidence it works. Just a bunch of back and forth "take my word for it" arguments alongside pictures of shimmed blocks, which prove nothing, and misleading info about the cost and ease of doing the modification. It is $20 but $200+-, does but doesn't work, shimmed blocks haven't but have cracked, is easy but hard to do yourself, etc.
Researching this topic literally could not be a bigger waste of someones time! How in the hell has this still not been settled with hard data/evidence to support it 🤦🏼♂️Not even the shops selling shims stand behind it, offer a complete kit, or provide instructions on how to perform the modification.
I can't decide rather to do it or not. Would pay someone to do it so I am not burned out before I start restoring the car but doubt anyone is around my area.
so if someone is paying how much would this cost?
$50
Dude looks like logic
So your shims are feeler gauges ? Or what?
30’’in or 32”in feeler gauge
Where do I get the shims and the glue ..
I like your detention explanation causing cracking but I don’t agree with shimming the block. There is no technical engineering data that supports that this application works. When the Swedish engineers designed this engine in the ‘80’s they designed in the slot between the cylinders to decrease head temperatures where it is most needed. Blocking that flow of coolant there will raise the temps in that area and may actually increase the chance of cracking. Believe me the engineers thought this through. I do think they made a mistake with boring the block from 2.4 to 2.5. Bottom line is these engines aren’t designed for 300+ hp, keep them stock, upgrade the intercooler and all is good.
Lol. You just never stop, do you. The Volvo R community has enjoyed their blocks NOT cracking after shimming them, but YES cracking WITHOUT shimming them. Stop shoving your dogma down everyone's throat. The engineers should have done more testing and removed the cut out when they bored the engines out to 2.5. Plenty of stock engines crack sleeves below 100K miles even with regular maintenance. That's a relative problem if you're an owner. And the shimming method mitigates that. For something so obvious, it's asinine to chase down a statistically supported data rabbit-hole. For controversial issues, sure. But this is pretty darn clear-cut.
Then explain why other manufacturers that use open deck blocks and don't have the split between cylinders don't have the same problems with cracked blocks?
@@CyclingSJH I can understand this. But what about 2.5 T engines they don't tend to crack so much or do they and as much as I know they are identical engines but the 2.5 T has a low pressure turbo and R engine has a high pressure turbo. That means that the block is good to around 250 hp stock.
@@CyclingSJH the cut out is there for interbore cooling!
The slot between the cylinders is for thermal contraction and expansion not for cooling.
@2:39 Exactly, don't use peasant fuel on this modern cars. If you wanna be stingy convert to LPG. 👍
This guy looks like Logic in this video
You can measure my flow in Newton-metres. or something.
I beat the shit out of mine everyday
runs great.
0w40 oil and good coolant!
and I only use 93 octane ( US )
Just use 81mm block,
everything else doesn't work.
I like to talk to you about sunscreen
or you can buy T5 and swap it into a AWD car =D
Unfortunately its ford design flaw on the 2.5 engines. 😕
Ford has nothing to do with volvos "white blocks"! 😉
Ford just swap this 2.5 engine to ST (almost the same),but RS is another story with many upgrade , so RS is easy go for 400 + without these shims
I would Sleeve the block and run water meth and call it day
Yikes! I'm cringing watching this as is I expect anyone who has been involved in engine design & engineering 😬... whacking some strips into interbore cooling passage that also stick out well into the coolant jacket right at at the hottest part of the cylinder. Can't see that having a major detrimental effect on coolant flow right in the most critical region... oh yeah that should do it 🤦♂️
I'm basing this off anecdotal evidence of the greater majority of the tuned Volvo R community. Other than your stance as a keyboard warrior, have you seen any evidence of this not working for R model Volvos? What fix do you recommend? Thank you for your input.
@@eurojulien it just kind of amuses me. There is an underlying sentiment on here that volvo engineering didn't do a good job. Achieving 90kw/l reliably in a mass produced engine to an acceptable cost back in this era is a real challenge. There would have been detailed FE analysis and test of the engine structure. Thermal analysis. CFD analysis. Engine dyno development testing. Engine dyno durability. The idea that volvo engineering should of just filled this coolant flow slot into make it better is pretty ridiculous!
@@nicktheengineer5976 Agreed, but how do you explain how many of these cars crack blocks on factory tunes/configurations? Have you taken a look at the darton sleeve solution, that also "closes" the deck.
@@eurojulien I cant make comment on what the failure is and why it occurs as I haven't got anything info to base it on. What I would say is the engine would have been designed to be robust to around 160000km at that rating. There could be some material/part variation that results in some earlier life failures on some engines. I can say with a fair degree of confidence that the engine is pretty unlikely to be robust to increased thermal loading and peak cylinder pressures that are inevitable from increasing the power output at a given engine speed.
@@eurojulien having different cylinder liners fitted that have been engineered for a higher rating is absolutely an option. How successful that is will of course depend on how well engineered they are. Typically aftermarket parts have way way less engineering as there is nowhere near the budget or expertise in an aftermarket supplier compared to a good EOM.
My preventative measure...DONT buy a Volvo! All the old RWD's never had these bs issues. I owned a 1990 760Turbo one of the best turbo Volvo's Ive ever owned. Hardy engine and zero over heating issues as well. This is nothing less than poor build quality. A shame Volvo went downhill once Ford got their paws into the company same goes for GM sinking Saab! Never had this issue with my turbo Saabs!
Poor build quality 😂 nothing to do with everyone wanting to get more power out of an engine that's over a decade old. Standard form these cars are fine.
@@4821052 there seems to be a lot of old XC90 t5s with 300-400k on the clock. Is it the 2.5 the problem or the bigger turbo. I don’t really understand