The small umbrella attachment for the bare bulb AD-200 head works very well in tight spaces and helps focus the light toward the subject without losing any light to the sides.
I did a bunch of testing in a room with dark walls using various modifiers. Bottom line was, yes the bulb eats more power, but it typically gives a better overall light pattern. By “better”, I mean smoother and broader (at least in my modifiers.). In a double diffused soft box, they look about the same (except bulb was a bit warmer), but used with a collapsible beauty dish or umbrella, the fresnel had more of a hot center and more of a “splotchy” look from edge to edge. As for my umbrella, Fresnel was best shoot-through while bulb was clearly better bounced. Oh, another benefit of the bulb is the ability to use the small direct mount modifiers like the snoot and reflector. The reflector is way bigger than the fresnel, but it makes up for the power loss and delivers a very nice round and even pattern.
I was a medical photographer for 46 years. The bare bulb I use it in all my surgeries and autopsy and open-heart. We had the old Norman B 200 and B400. I use a special bracket that allowed the flash head to be right over the front top of the lens. It was a manmade ring light. 105 micro Nikor at f16 a perfect exposure every time. Open heart I use a Hasselblad Elm motor drive camera with a ring light, with a grip that allowed me to hold the camera outreach hovering over the open cavity. The bare bulb is limited if you do not know to use it,. Richard
I use reflective umbrella with 7" reflector attached to ad200 bare bulb to direct light to back of umbrella. Great for portraits and small groups. More efficient than Fresnel head.
Before I even knew what I was doing I bought the AD200 and found that I preferred working with the bare bulb. Even now with some experience on the books I still prefer it for mostly the same qualities you mentioned.
great stuff thanks for sharing - For the speedlite guys (thats me that is) Ive tried adding a dome or stofen diffuser to the speedlite to mimic a "bare bulb" sticking out - It loses a stop and half of light but does seem to do similar job spreading the light inside an umbrella or softbox to even out and fill the modifier with less of a hotspot
Never used a bare bulb as I didn't really know how it would change my light and the Fresnel just works for what I do. But that's super interesting to know and I may use it in the future!
great explanation, however if I were a bit of a stickler, I would say raising your ISO makes a difference because you're raising your ambient light which could break up your shadows a little bit.
One use you didn't mention where the bare bulb works better is in a tall strip softbox. You get far more even light from top to bottom than with a Fresnel, though overall it will meter a bit lower for a given power setting. I've found the same is true if you are using a large bounce umbrella with a diffusion cover(Photek Softlighter or similar). Since I work indoors, and the eVOLV 200's have power to spare in my case, I use the bare bulbs with those very modifiers all the time. In strip boxes they make evenly lighting a background easy as pie.
I have the Flashpoint Evolv 200 pro which came with all the same attachments. I haven’t used the bare bulb yet myself; however, I seen in other photographers’ videos recommend it for use with soft boxes to get maximum fill of light in the modifier since the light is emitted omnidirectional.
Great topic. Thanks for covering it. I love bare bulb on AD200 in soft box because the light actually hits the silver reflecting surface snd pushes forward. More efficient than fresnel lens. Drawback of bare bulb, no modeling light.
Looks like next time I use my Glow softbox/beauty dish, I will have to try the bare bulb from my ad200. I've never taken the fresnel attachment off it. Thanks David! Great video and I love how you explain things.
I am using the bare bulb since it "feels" more like a momolight that way. In the studio I can use the barn doors, outside I use it on top of a flash bracket with a Godox 4.7" Standard Reflector attached to it to achieve a larger light source than the fresnell head.
Thank you very much for this video, saves me the time of doing these tests myself 😀 I mainly shot my AD200's bare bulb as I am always using them with strip boxes or soft boxes.
I shoot bare bulbs because I have 2 AD200 Pros and I used the dual adapter to give it more power when shooting outdoor. As you said, why not use it since it comes with it 😉
I used to shoot with the Quantum T5 flashes that only came with a bare bulb. However the difference between my setup and what you displayed is that I had a reflective cone around the bare bulb and found it essential when using an umbrella, because without it the light spill was intolerable. Now I use the AD200 as is & my barebulb days are behind me (lol). Good video, though!
I own two flashpoint evolve 200 kits I purchased new from Adorama. Honestly they do most of what I need, I use the barn doors occasionally and even the gels. The kit is so useful and sturdy but I've never used the bare bulbs. However, after seeing it used for a shoot through white umbrella makes me want to try it I love these flashes and the only downside, for me at least, is that it is difficult seeing the led display in daylight. Thanks for the tip on bare bulbs in small flashes. .
Hi Dave I use bare bulb from time to time. I find the Speedotron VF 202 head and a 2400 ws pack with wireless trigger works well. I have gotten some great results. With no modifiers.
Bare bulbs are also great for architecture work because the increased distance when bounced into a wall / ceiling and greater spread produces far fewer shadows over the large area of a room. BUT you do loose power. Hence, I keep a pair of old White Lightning Ultra 1800s hanging around. Sometimes they are NOT overkill.
Hello David, this adapter is to be used by modifiers like softboxes, octagons and modifiers like that, umbrellas yes but If you put a reflector on it so you don't loose that much light. I guess your don't use this type of modifiers and shoot more with fresnels and umbrellas.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto then you missed the opportunity to use a softbox or an octagon to test the ad200 and even use the adapter to connect 2 of them. So many options like reflectors, adapters, extensions and so many others that Adorama offer for this ad200, very versatile and small flash.
"Bare bulb" (better, circular flash tube) was the norm in studio lighting. Your assessment about the differences is correct. Between the bare bulb in your case and bare Fresnel alternative, the former is actually smaller. In your studio, the bounce around of the bare bulb's stray light to the sides and behind does not contribute much to the softerness, I think. You may have a Sekonic flash meter that you can use to measure it. In modifiers it becomes a different story. I have this 3' x 4' (90cm x 120cm) softbox from Profoto with a silver reflector interior. It comes with two diffusion baffles: inner and outer. Profoto strobes, generally, have a reflector that prevents light going everywhere and the bare reflector head's flash angle is in the 35mm lens angle ballpark (at full frame 35mm format). If I place such a flash into the softbox, then with no diffuser, the contribution of the softbox to the end-result is zero, because of the angle. When I add one diffusion panel at the front, I cause most of the light to go straight through the panel, but a fraction bounces around inside the softbox because of the diffusion panel's white aspect - the light is diffused by the front panel though. Use both the inner and outer diffuser, and the light is more evenly distributed and diffused. Use the inner baffle only, and you start using the silver wall visible from the outside as a hard reflector too. It's not straightforward, though. Jay Pee Morgan did a video, some years ago, shooting different modifiers at the same distance on a white wall with X and Y axis size scale in order to see what the spread was. At the time, he felt, "they all look alike". Basically, they looked all the same, except for vignetting. It ignores the size differences relative to the subject depending on e.g vertical or horizontal modifier orientation and this is extremely important in feathering as the apparent size of the modifier changes when you walk away from the camera's optical axis. And he ignored the quality of the light. Light can be very much diffused, or very focused (the extreme form is called L.A.S.E.R., A.K.A. laser - "Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation"). In order to see the focused effect at scale you need extremely good (i.e. perfect) parabolic reflectors with the bare flash tube precisely in the focal point of the parabola, flashing into the parabola, preferably. That "organizes" the light and if the parabola produces a concentrated output in a narrow angle - c.f. telephoto lens - then you defeat the inverse square law (like you do with your battery powered torch with focusing reflector - the one you used as a boy scout ;) ). This "organized" light can have a large diameter and still produce a hard transition to shadow. With a bunch of Profoto softboxes, I bought an even bigger bunch of camera-brand top-model speedlights (my brand's spelling) added external battery packs and PocketWizards. Their 75Ws is enough for my studio work, my camera's usable ISO range and the external packs give a huge number of flashes per charge, plus fast recycle times - in the large modifiers, I place two of these. Today, I would have more choices and made a different decision, I think. The only thing that a couple big studio strobes cannot do, is what 10 of these smaller ones can easily do: be hidden and evenly light a large space with great depth from the camera viewpoint. The absolute PITA (*) is recharging 120 AA batteries (**) in the speedlights and some 13 times 2 AA in the PocketWizards (I use two transmitters from one camera where I can have 3 groups i-TTL controlled and 3 groups manually controlled from these transmitters). (*) Pain In The Anatomy (**) If you wanted to copy this approach, make sure you have a charging device with processor controlled charging that displays state of charge and state of health, plus can revitalize your batteries. I have had to revitalize some 40 AA batteries so far and without these chargers would have been completely and utterly frustrated when charging batteries with a "blind" device led to no charge at all (so far, less than 4 were totally lost). I have 7 chargers for 16AA each and these can be powered from a car's 12V adapter (but maybe not all at the same time). Turns out the speedlights draw some residual power from the batteries when they are switched off or left in standby for some time and this drains the batteries to a seemingly "lost" state of charge.
I use the bare bulb attachment on my AD200s with the add on reflector all the time outdoors. Gives the AD200 a decent amount of throw to light up any scene.
To me, the ideal use for a bare bulb flash is as a practical light, ie one that will appear in the frame. I have a tiny cheap Viltrox speedlight I frequently use for this - I wish it had a bare bulb attachment! I am looking for a domed diffuser for it. My main lights - a pair of Interfit Honey Badgers - have traditional flash tubes so are effectively bare bulb all the time, but they're studio flashes so that's standard
I never use the Frenel Head because I use Softboxes for portraits to get softer light. The Bare Bulb is my choice for Softboxes. Thank you for this Video. Regards from Itzehoe near Hamburg
Great video!!! You always speak truth and you know you stuff!!! Other RUclipsrs need to learn from you first before they try to make tutorials on this subject.
I do use my Godox AD180 barebulb always inside softbox and octabox, for me makes better spread inside the modifier that produce the light I love on portraits.
I sometimes like to use the oval globe difuser from Impact. Maybe somehow same effect? When I use it I like to think about it as a fixture, like it mimics a real bulb - this is how I imagine it at least. It adds to the drama in the shot when I need it to be so
I'm new to flash photography. I'm using Godox Ad200 Pro and a 51" white reflective umbrella for portraitures. Should I use bare bulb or add a AD-S2 reflector to it? I want to have soft lighting on my subjects. Thanks
In the 1970s I was in a hotel in Philadelphia. A wedding party spilled out into the lobby. Photographers with Leica cameras wore an electronic flash backpack with a bare bulb on a post about 1 foot over the cameraman’s head. The ambient light would have allowed exposures of 1/60 th. of a second at f-2. I assume that the flash added eye highlights and fill light bouncing off walls & ceiling.
I love bare bulb! I like to put my strobe on a boom arm and position it about 3 ft directly in front of the subject, getting the catchlight at 12 o'clock. Beautiful paramount light, and my clients love the look!
When I used the AD-200, it was bare bulb all the time. I’ve since shifted to the AD-300, partially because it doesn’t use a Fresnel head, thus eliminating an additional step to swap out heads. (I realize I could have added a circular head to the 200, but that would have brought the total cost of the 200 to that of the costlier, more-powerful 300.)
I have a set of the Streaklight 360s that I have used and abused for many years. When shooting corporate events I'd often have one on each side of the stage with the umbrella reflector and a 60" umbrella on each. They made great light when shooting posed shots on stage (I would not use flash during speeches/presentations). I also use them in my studio in an S-Bracket to make use of various Bowens mount modifiers for main light or background lights. Often for portraits, I'd use the bare bulb in a softbox for my main light and a speedlight as fill in a clamshell setup.
I get better results using the bare bulb with my round modifiers like the umbrella softboxes and collapsible beauty dishes where filling the whole volume of light is the point of the modifier. I might still use the fresnel head in a strip box, or when I intentionally want that beam of light (in addition to honeycomb spots or barn doors.) Off topic: Those haters that AD200s can't be used for professional photography must have assistants to haul around their gear. For the rest of us, they are great when you are shooting on the go.
I'll use one ad200 to raise the overall room ambient if it's to dark keeping my iso low then use a second one for the main light source. Using two together in this way gives the ultimate in control. I just love using them and have found i rarely need anything else. I also have the round head accessories for that same system. Love it.
I use bare bulb inside umbrellas and soft boxes because I have it as it came with the flash. I’d never buy one. I think it does eliminate hot spots vs fresnel head, although it really is negligible.
Hey David, I have a question. If you use the fersnel head in a reversed umbrella (models like the Profoto 100980 Paraplu Diep XL Wit 165cm). So it bounces in the umbrella. Does this help getting the hotspot away and still get more power than the bare bulb. I'm thinking of buying the Godox AD200Pro, but I want to use it outdoors in a softbox. I'm afraid that the barebulb will not be strong enought to compensate the sun. So I was thinking to use the fersnel head, but I don't want to get the hotspot in the middle. Thank you for your reply.
I would have done this video another way first if i was going to use a bare bulb in a open unbrella i would use the S bracket and a 7 inch reflector that way you can alter the distance of the umbrella shaft to siut the beam from the 7 inch refecltor and this wold stop the over flow of light going outside the brolly and would save you the two stops of wasted light or you can use the small Umbrella Style Softbox 48cm this would be a far better option. I cant understand why everybody thinks everyone has white walls and ceilings.?????
That's still not bare bulb... The flash tube (bare bulb) is covered by a piece of glass on the outside to protect it. The AD300pro/400pro with the glass piece off is bare bulb.
I lreally ove the Godox AD-200 Bulb light a lot. I look at images that are pleasing to "My eyes, My eyes and, not necessarily and not so much the Technical Professional Lightings "Rembrant, Broadlight, etc. where half of a face is in the shawdos, and so called Drama Light" I guess this is just me an old untrained old School Guy in his 80's. I am just Thankful We have Digital Color, and not B & W Film We had to wait days to see what our Images looke like. Therefore I use the Barebulb a lot, and as stated I like it. Please do not take my comments as been negative just "One Man's Opinion" I watch a lot of you very talented Young Guys Videos, and keep trying to learn & enjoy the Hobby. Thanks a million for the Vidoe, and info imparted.
Hi David i have a problem with when i am trying to take 14k gold jewellery pictures. If i use hard light it makes too bright and white. if i use a softbox not enough to get color. In order to get color correct i am taking the picture f8 and shutter is about 1/3. But itmakes me feel a softer picture. How can i get the correct color and a sharp picture via using my ad200 and speed light? It would help me a lot if you can... Many thanks.
Use the Canon transmitter for the Canon flash and then set the evolv to trigger with the built-in optical. Here's a video I did about mixing and matching brands: ruclips.net/video/KYUax4ZYdRc/видео.html
The small umbrella attachment for the bare bulb AD-200 head works very well in tight spaces and helps focus the light toward the subject without losing any light to the sides.
The small soft box are really good
I did a bunch of testing in a room with dark walls using various modifiers. Bottom line was, yes the bulb eats more power, but it typically gives a better overall light pattern. By “better”, I mean smoother and broader (at least in my modifiers.). In a double diffused soft box, they look about the same (except bulb was a bit warmer), but used with a collapsible beauty dish or umbrella, the fresnel had more of a hot center and more of a “splotchy” look from edge to edge. As for my umbrella, Fresnel was best shoot-through while bulb was clearly better bounced. Oh, another benefit of the bulb is the ability to use the small direct mount modifiers like the snoot and reflector. The reflector is way bigger than the fresnel, but it makes up for the power loss and delivers a very nice round and even pattern.
I was a medical photographer for 46 years. The bare bulb I use it in all my surgeries and autopsy and open-heart. We had the old Norman B 200 and B400. I use a special bracket that allowed the flash head to be right over the front top of the lens. It was a manmade ring light. 105 micro Nikor at f16 a perfect exposure every time. Open heart I use a Hasselblad Elm motor drive camera with a ring light, with a grip that allowed me to hold the camera outreach hovering over the open cavity. The bare bulb is limited if you do not know to use it,. Richard
I use reflective umbrella with 7" reflector attached to ad200 bare bulb to direct light to back of umbrella. Great for portraits and small groups. More efficient than Fresnel head.
I Don’t understand the wanted result. Can you explain further please.
Before I even knew what I was doing I bought the AD200 and found that I preferred working with the bare bulb. Even now with some experience on the books I still prefer it for mostly the same qualities you mentioned.
great stuff thanks for sharing - For the speedlite guys (thats me that is) Ive tried adding a dome or stofen diffuser to the speedlite to mimic a "bare bulb" sticking out - It loses a stop and half of light but does seem to do similar job spreading the light inside an umbrella or softbox to even out and fill the modifier with less of a hotspot
Never used a bare bulb as I didn't really know how it would change my light and the Fresnel just works for what I do. But that's super interesting to know and I may use it in the future!
great explanation, however if I were a bit of a stickler, I would say raising your ISO makes a difference because you're raising your ambient light which could break up your shadows a little bit.
One use you didn't mention where the bare bulb works better is in a tall strip softbox. You get far more even light from top to bottom than with a Fresnel, though overall it will meter a bit lower for a given power setting. I've found the same is true if you are using a large bounce umbrella with a diffusion cover(Photek Softlighter or similar).
Since I work indoors, and the eVOLV 200's have power to spare in my case, I use the bare bulbs with those very modifiers all the time. In strip boxes they make evenly lighting a background easy as pie.
I have it with my AD200 purchase but never used it. After watching your presentation I intend to use it. Thank you.
I have the Flashpoint Evolv 200 pro which came with all the same attachments. I haven’t used the bare bulb yet myself; however, I seen in other photographers’ videos recommend it for use with soft boxes to get maximum fill of light in the modifier since the light is emitted omnidirectional.
Great topic. Thanks for covering it. I love bare bulb on AD200 in soft box because the light actually hits the silver reflecting surface snd pushes forward. More efficient than fresnel lens. Drawback of bare bulb, no modeling light.
The AD-B2 mount has a modeling light
Have two AD200 pro prefer using bare bulb when using any modifiers.
Looks like next time I use my Glow softbox/beauty dish, I will have to try the bare bulb from my ad200. I've never taken the fresnel attachment off it. Thanks David! Great video and I love how you explain things.
I am using the bare bulb since it "feels" more like a momolight that way. In the studio I can use the barn doors, outside I use it on top of a flash bracket with a Godox 4.7" Standard Reflector attached to it to achieve a larger light source than the fresnell head.
Great explanation David! That is a great piece of kit and it’s nice to have both heads included.
I shot bare bulb this weekend, the results (in my opinion) was nice and soft. I'm starting to play around with bare bulb flash more often.
I use a small dome diffuser (ADS-17) with my AD200 and get great, uniform soft light on the bare bulb. Really great accessory.
I totally agree. That dome diffuser is brilliant and a great solution for packing light.
i use the AD200 bare bulb, with softbox in my studio all the time.
Thank you very much for this video, saves me the time of doing these tests myself 😀 I mainly shot my AD200's bare bulb as I am always using them with strip boxes or soft boxes.
I shoot bare bulbs because I have 2 AD200 Pros and I used the dual adapter to give it more power when shooting outdoor. As you said, why not use it since it comes with it 😉
Thanks David, you just answered the question I had already for a long time (from the moment I bought the AD200).
I used to shoot with the Quantum T5 flashes that only came with a bare bulb. However the difference between my setup and what you displayed is that I had a reflective cone around the bare bulb and found it essential when using an umbrella, because without it the light spill was intolerable. Now I use the AD200 as is & my barebulb days are behind me (lol). Good video, though!
I own two flashpoint evolve 200 kits I purchased new from Adorama. Honestly they do most of what I need, I use the barn doors occasionally and even the gels. The kit is so useful and sturdy but I've never used the bare bulbs. However, after seeing it used for a shoot through white umbrella makes me want to try it I love these flashes and the only downside, for me at least, is that it is difficult seeing the led display in daylight. Thanks for the tip on bare bulbs in small flashes. .
Hi Dave I use bare bulb from time to time. I find the Speedotron VF 202 head and a 2400 ws pack with wireless trigger works well. I have gotten some great results. With no modifiers.
Bare bulbs are also great for architecture work because the increased distance when bounced into a wall / ceiling and greater spread produces far fewer shadows over the large area of a room. BUT you do loose power. Hence, I keep a pair of old White Lightning Ultra 1800s hanging around. Sometimes they are NOT overkill.
My introduction to bare bulb flash photography was around 1983 using a Vivitar 4600 flash + BB attachment.
This was a great segment and very timely. I got the Godox 200 for Christmas and was wondering about the bare bulb!
Thank you Mr. Bergman and Adorama
fresnel light is smaller as its focused and its source is smaller than the bulb
Hello David, this adapter is to be used by modifiers like softboxes, octagons and modifiers like that, umbrellas yes but If you put a reflector on it so you don't loose that much light. I guess your don't use this type of modifiers and shoot more with fresnels and umbrellas.
I shoot with whatever light and modifier that will give me the look that I want. :)
@@DavidBergmanPhoto then you missed the opportunity to use a softbox or an octagon to test the ad200 and even use the adapter to connect 2 of them. So many options like reflectors, adapters, extensions and so many others that Adorama offer for this ad200, very versatile and small flash.
That's right. It should be used with softboxes with only one layer of diffusion
I actually just started using my godox, didn’t know about flash point til last months but yeah I’m excited to see how better my light is
thanks David. Would there be much of a difference if you used the bare bulb vs fresnel in a soft box or strip box?
"Bare bulb" (better, circular flash tube) was the norm in studio lighting. Your assessment about the differences is correct. Between the bare bulb in your case and bare Fresnel alternative, the former is actually smaller. In your studio, the bounce around of the bare bulb's stray light to the sides and behind does not contribute much to the softerness, I think. You may have a Sekonic flash meter that you can use to measure it. In modifiers it becomes a different story. I have this 3' x 4' (90cm x 120cm) softbox from Profoto with a silver reflector interior. It comes with two diffusion baffles: inner and outer. Profoto strobes, generally, have a reflector that prevents light going everywhere and the bare reflector head's flash angle is in the 35mm lens angle ballpark (at full frame 35mm format). If I place such a flash into the softbox, then with no diffuser, the contribution of the softbox to the end-result is zero, because of the angle. When I add one diffusion panel at the front, I cause most of the light to go straight through the panel, but a fraction bounces around inside the softbox because of the diffusion panel's white aspect - the light is diffused by the front panel though. Use both the inner and outer diffuser, and the light is more evenly distributed and diffused. Use the inner baffle only, and you start using the silver wall visible from the outside as a hard reflector too. It's not straightforward, though. Jay Pee Morgan did a video, some years ago, shooting different modifiers at the same distance on a white wall with X and Y axis size scale in order to see what the spread was. At the time, he felt, "they all look alike". Basically, they looked all the same, except for vignetting. It ignores the size differences relative to the subject depending on e.g vertical or horizontal modifier orientation and this is extremely important in feathering as the apparent size of the modifier changes when you walk away from the camera's optical axis. And he ignored the quality of the light. Light can be very much diffused, or very focused (the extreme form is called L.A.S.E.R., A.K.A. laser - "Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation"). In order to see the focused effect at scale you need extremely good (i.e. perfect) parabolic reflectors with the bare flash tube precisely in the focal point of the parabola, flashing into the parabola, preferably. That "organizes" the light and if the parabola produces a concentrated output in a narrow angle - c.f. telephoto lens - then you defeat the inverse square law (like you do with your battery powered torch with focusing reflector - the one you used as a boy scout ;) ). This "organized" light can have a large diameter and still produce a hard transition to shadow.
With a bunch of Profoto softboxes, I bought an even bigger bunch of camera-brand top-model speedlights (my brand's spelling) added external battery packs and PocketWizards. Their 75Ws is enough for my studio work, my camera's usable ISO range and the external packs give a huge number of flashes per charge, plus fast recycle times - in the large modifiers, I place two of these. Today, I would have more choices and made a different decision, I think. The only thing that a couple big studio strobes cannot do, is what 10 of these smaller ones can easily do: be hidden and evenly light a large space with great depth from the camera viewpoint. The absolute PITA (*) is recharging 120 AA batteries (**) in the speedlights and some 13 times 2 AA in the PocketWizards (I use two transmitters from one camera where I can have 3 groups i-TTL controlled and 3 groups manually controlled from these transmitters).
(*) Pain In The Anatomy
(**) If you wanted to copy this approach, make sure you have a charging device with processor controlled charging that displays state of charge and state of health, plus can revitalize your batteries. I have had to revitalize some 40 AA batteries so far and without these chargers would have been completely and utterly frustrated when charging batteries with a "blind" device led to no charge at all (so far, less than 4 were totally lost). I have 7 chargers for 16AA each and these can be powered from a car's 12V adapter (but maybe not all at the same time). Turns out the speedlights draw some residual power from the batteries when they are switched off or left in standby for some time and this drains the batteries to a seemingly "lost" state of charge.
I use the bare bulb attachment on my AD200s with the add on reflector all the time outdoors. Gives the AD200 a decent amount of throw to light up any scene.
To me, the ideal use for a bare bulb flash is as a practical light, ie one that will appear in the frame. I have a tiny cheap Viltrox speedlight I frequently use for this - I wish it had a bare bulb attachment! I am looking for a domed diffuser for it. My main lights - a pair of Interfit Honey Badgers - have traditional flash tubes so are effectively bare bulb all the time, but they're studio flashes so that's standard
I never use the Frenel Head because I use Softboxes for portraits to get softer light. The Bare Bulb is my choice for Softboxes. Thank you for this Video. Regards from Itzehoe near Hamburg
I really really !! Recommend the head extension its only 40$ or so its such a difference and keeps your important piece safe ( main flash body)
Great video!!! You always speak truth and you know you stuff!!! Other RUclipsrs need to learn from you first before they try to make tutorials on this subject.
I do use my Godox AD180 barebulb always inside softbox and octabox, for me makes better spread inside the modifier that produce the light I love on portraits.
When I use my ad200’s bulb with umbrellas I always put a 7” metal modifier on the s2 bracket.
I sometimes like to use the oval globe difuser from Impact. Maybe somehow same effect? When I use it I like to think about it as a fixture, like it mimics a real bulb - this is how I imagine it at least. It adds to the drama in the shot when I need it to be so
I'm new to flash photography. I'm using Godox Ad200 Pro and a 51" white reflective umbrella for portraitures. Should I use bare bulb or add a AD-S2 reflector to it? I want to have soft lighting on my subjects. Thanks
Great way to use bare bulb in small space to spread the light on the subject. It gives me another hat trick in my kit of photography. Thanks David
In the 1970s I was in a hotel in Philadelphia. A wedding party spilled out into the lobby. Photographers with Leica cameras wore an electronic flash backpack with a bare bulb on a post about 1 foot over the cameraman’s head. The ambient light would have allowed exposures of 1/60 th. of a second at f-2. I assume that the flash added eye highlights and fill light bouncing off walls & ceiling.
The Belleview Stratford?
I use the bare bulb all the time when I use my ad200’s in my softboxes.
I love bare bulb! I like to put my strobe on a boom arm and position it about 3 ft directly in front of the subject, getting the catchlight at 12 o'clock. Beautiful paramount light, and my clients love the look!
without any modifier?
When I used the AD-200, it was bare bulb all the time. I’ve since shifted to the AD-300, partially because it doesn’t use a Fresnel head, thus eliminating an additional step to swap out heads. (I realize I could have added a circular head to the 200, but that would have brought the total cost of the 200 to that of the costlier, more-powerful 300.)
Any Convenient way to wrap color gel onto the bare bulb flash head?
I have a set of the Streaklight 360s that I have used and abused for many years. When shooting corporate events I'd often have one on each side of the stage with the umbrella reflector and a 60" umbrella on each. They made great light when shooting posed shots on stage (I would not use flash during speeches/presentations). I also use them in my studio in an S-Bracket to make use of various Bowens mount modifiers for main light or background lights. Often for portraits, I'd use the bare bulb in a softbox for my main light and a speedlight as fill in a clamshell setup.
I get better results using the bare bulb with my round modifiers like the umbrella softboxes and collapsible beauty dishes where filling the whole volume of light is the point of the modifier. I might still use the fresnel head in a strip box, or when I intentionally want that beam of light (in addition to honeycomb spots or barn doors.)
Off topic: Those haters that AD200s can't be used for professional photography must have assistants to haul around their gear. For the rest of us, they are great when you are shooting on the go.
I'll use one ad200 to raise the overall room ambient if it's to dark keeping my iso low then use a second one for the main light source. Using two together in this way gives the ultimate in control. I just love using them and have found i rarely need anything else. I also have the round head accessories for that same system. Love it.
I like your approach. I'mma try this out @davidjones8070
or if you would have used a silver umbrella focusing the light back onto the subject
Bare bulbs are also great for hexadecagon Beautybox.
I use bare bulb inside umbrellas and soft boxes because I have it as it came with the flash. I’d never buy one. I think it does eliminate hot spots vs fresnel head, although it really is negligible.
Thanks David. I have an AD200, but I don't think I've ever used it bare bulb. That will change. :-)
Stay safe.
Thank you David, really helpful information. Keep up the good work!
I have the godox ad 200 and love it . Iam thinking of getting the godox ad200 beauty dish but its only 12 inch. Is it too small???
The Godox AD200 has more versatility than a speedlight not the other way round but good video.
Very informative. Never heard about "bare bulb".
Hey David, I have a question. If you use the fersnel head in a reversed umbrella (models like the Profoto 100980 Paraplu Diep XL Wit 165cm). So it bounces in the umbrella. Does this help getting the hotspot away and still get more power than the bare bulb. I'm thinking of buying the Godox AD200Pro, but I want to use it outdoors in a softbox. I'm afraid that the barebulb will not be strong enought to compensate the sun. So I was thinking to use the fersnel head, but I don't want to get the hotspot in the middle. Thank you for your reply.
I think that bulb is the same one we had in our Norman 808 pack and head systems.
Hello, Is there any option to use modeling light with bare bulb?
I would have done this video another way first if i was going to use a bare bulb in a open unbrella i would use the S bracket and a 7 inch reflector that way you can alter the distance of the umbrella shaft to siut the beam from the 7 inch refecltor and this wold stop the over flow of light going outside the brolly and would save you the two stops of wasted light or you can use the small Umbrella Style Softbox 48cm this would be a far better option. I cant understand why everybody thinks everyone has white walls and ceilings.?????
Shame there are so many problems with the battery. Is this ever going to be addressed?
Thanks, always practical knowledge.
That's still not bare bulb... The flash tube (bare bulb) is covered by a piece of glass on the outside to protect it. The AD300pro/400pro with the glass piece off is bare bulb.
hi David, could the godox PB960 reduce the recicling time in a godox V 680 II ( events)? or doesnt help so much?
Hi David, do you know if the H200R ( Round Head attachment) for the Ad200 would be softer and have more spread of light more than Bare Bulb?
what the best way to attach my soft boxes to this?
As always very informative.
Well, I suppose that's useful for architecture photography?
I have 3 sunpak 120 J. Bare bulb that give wonderfull light, can’t leave them.
You are the best ever. Thank you so much!
Thanks.
Thanks David...
This was so helpful, thank you!
Great content as always! #adorama #createnomatterwhat
Love these q&a videos keep it up guys.
I lreally ove the Godox AD-200 Bulb light a lot. I look at images that are pleasing to "My eyes, My eyes and, not necessarily and not so much the Technical Professional Lightings "Rembrant, Broadlight, etc. where half of a face is in the shawdos, and so called Drama Light" I guess this is just me an old untrained old School Guy in his 80's. I am just Thankful We have Digital Color, and not B & W Film We had to wait days to see what our Images looke like. Therefore I use the Barebulb a lot, and as stated I like it. Please do not take my comments as been negative just "One Man's Opinion" I watch a lot of you very talented Young Guys Videos, and keep trying to learn & enjoy the Hobby. Thanks a million for the Vidoe, and info imparted.
Is ad200 pro too weak for a 80x120 cm softbox?
I use mine with bare bulb only when inside a softbox.
Thank you so much for this lesson. I really needed it
Hi David i have a problem with when i am trying to take 14k gold jewellery pictures. If i use hard light it makes too bright and white. if i use a softbox not enough to get color. In order to get color correct i am taking the picture f8 and shutter is about 1/3. But itmakes me feel a softer picture. How can i get the correct color and a sharp picture via using my ad200 and speed light? It would help me a lot if you can... Many thanks.
Great Video!
How can I wirelessly radio trigger the eVOLV200 and one or more Canon speedlites?
Use the Canon transmitter for the Canon flash and then set the evolv to trigger with the built-in optical. Here's a video I did about mixing and matching brands: ruclips.net/video/KYUax4ZYdRc/видео.html
I love the unit BUT I can't get the barn doors off!
Oops. Call the kind folks at Adorama and they'll help you out.
Ótima explicação!
SUPER video!!
Only when I forget my soft box. :)
Thank you David!
Shades of Don Blair for all us old timers!
Thank you!
why not talk about the best way in a softbox ?
Bare bulb for beauty dishes!
Good video.
Good information 💯
I use barebulb, but only when I am using a softbox.
Where can I get a mannequin head to practice shoot?
Never