HOW TO GET CRAZY SHARP PHOTOS WITH ANY CAMERA!
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
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Have you ever wondered how to take sharp photos?
As an amateur photographer myself, I know how frustrating it can be to come home with blurry or soft images, even when you feel like you've done everything right.
But don't worry, I've learned a few tricks that I think can help you get crazy sharp photographs with any camera and lens.
#photography #photographytips #landscapephotography
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I found your video while searching for Nikon P950 tutorials. The words "crazy sharp" caught my attention, so I watched. You just taught me things I've been trying to understand for years! And you made it sound so easy. Thank you! You have a new subscriber here!
All good advice for a person who wants to get of Auto mode who can then start to learn the more advanced procedures, well done sir !
Great advice, if I can add on a bit. if you want to be a good photographer always practice with very old gear, I'm talking about the very first generations of digital cameras. A lot of people do not manage to grasp the interrelatedness of the photographing parameters due to how "smart" modern cameras have become. With old gear you learn about these parameters better. Modern cameras do so much by themselves in good conditions but when conditions go bad a lot of photographers lose it. Extra tip, make it habit of exercising your arms especially if you do a lot hand held photography, get a light set of bumbells and work those arms out, the arm muscles become much more steadier.
A very important subject was not touched in the video : when using a tripod also use the 2 sec. or 10 sec. timer of the camera, or use a cable release. 😉
You're right. A couple of people have mentioned that and so I should have included it. Thanks for the comment and feedback.
What about VR? Shouldn’t we switch it off when on tripod? To take sharp photos.
I've asked around a couple of pros and some turn IS off others don't. The Fuji 70-300 for example will sense if on a tripod and sort itself out.
@@Thisisme918
The only time I find it essential to turn off the IS / VR on the lens is for long exposures that exceed the time-out of the metering, around 8 seconds on most cameras I’ve used. If you leave the stabilisation on and exceed the timer the stabilisation will stop and the moving element can drop / park.
I had this trying to take a shot of a castle and decorative chain lights, the stabilisation timed out and the lights became J shaped stripes.
You can determine the cut off time by just 1/2 pressing and releasing the shutter and listening to the lens for the whirring noise of the stabiliser to stop.
"but be careful, the higher you go the more noise and grain you'll start to see " unless you intentionally overexpose the subject and reduce it in post to hide that noise. I've shoot night track races at ISO 16,000 on a crop sensor DSLR and you can't see noise unless you pixel peep. It's called ETTR or expose to the right (of the histogram)
I should also mention that shooting wide open at f/1.4 or f/4 isn't going to give you the best results optically, most lenses perform best at f/8-f/10 meaning chromatic aberration and lens softening will be less at those apertures.
Yep, both points are true. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
If you want to see sharp, like so sharp your eyes will bleed, get your hands on a Simga DP1 or DP2. It has different type of sensor. It doesn't require a Bayer filter.
This is the first video from you that I've seen. It was perfectly pitched, useful for absolute beginners and those with some experience. You've got a new subscriber and i look forward to going back through your catalogue. Thank you🙂
Cheers Martin. Enjoyed your Guinness challenge :).
Very good tips! Thank you.
Great video, thank you - nice and clear summing up the factors. One other thing I think could be valuable for new photographers to keep in the back of their minds for static subjects like landscapes: if the 'focusing 1/3 the way into the scene' doesn't give you enough front to back sharpness, focus stacking can give you as much depth-of-field as you want. A bit more involved than the other tips you covered but potentially a scene-saver if depth-of-field is giving troubles.
You're right I should have included focus stacking as an example. Thanks for the feedback and the comment.
Just one more tip, when using a tripod , be careful to turn off the image stabilisation (IS), both on the lens and in-camera if the camera has it. IS is great for hand-held, but can cause problems when on a tripod as the IS device ‘vibrates’ to counter hand-held movement.
Is that still needed on modern cameras? I know on some of the Fuji lenses they say that it'll out that it's on a tripod and turn off IS.
Honestly, I basically never turn off IS/IBIS on my Sony or Fuji.
I came to your channel by accident, but surely not by subscribing to it.
I definitely learned from this video not to press too hard on the shutter button.
This is the first video of yours that I’ve seen and it was very informative. I’m New to photography and I take in all the information I can. Thank you, you have a new subscriber and look forward to your next video
Thank you for the kind words Joshua! Hope you're enjoying your new hobby :).
This is a good video! I have to point out two things though. All lenses are sharp - you just need to know it’s limitations and how to use it to your advantage. Also, stopping down to f16 can cause diffraction and can lead to just as soft an image as shooting wide open. I like your style and your clarity - very informative. Please keep up the good work!
Thanks for the feedback Paul.
Perfect advice, great teacher! - However, here are some additional techniques we can use.
1. Use a Monopod - when a tripod is not handy enough. This can reduce shaking a lot.
2. Use image stabilisation - most cameras have this feature anyway.
3. Be careful when you do focus-and-recompose, especially with a DSLR and a wide aperture: recomposing moves the focal plane!!! And suddenly the tack sharp eye is out of focus. It took me a long time to identify this problem, especially when shooting people.
The easiest way to solve this is to reduce the aperture. However, esp. in people photography you want to shoot wide open.
With mirror-less cameras you simply move the focus-point to where the models' eye is (on a DSLR the area of focus-points is often too small).
-Mino
Thanks for taking the time to share some extra insights!
Good point about most lens having a "sweet spot" usually around f5.6-f8 (there are exceptions}. I try to aviod f16 as defraction will cause a bit of softness. lenses are usually sharpest near the center and softer in the corners.
Yep, exactly. I'll still shoot at f16 if it means not having to focus stack but you're spot on. Thanks for the comment.
Great video! I would add using a remote firing device when your camera is mounted on a tripod.
Or delay the shutter release by a few seconds to let the camera settle down after pressing the shuttter button
Good point. I just use a 2 second timer on my Sony.
@@Photography-Explained I have a bluetooth remote release (does zoom / focus too) from Amazon that works a treat on both my ZV-E10 & A6700, it wasn't expensive either, which is great!
Yeah I need to get a trigger for zoom etc. I tried an app but it was rubbish.
One thing I've learned is to hold steady through the shot. Have the mindset that after I snap the image, I won't move for about 2 seconds. Sometimes, we tend to jerk the camera once we snap the picture. So I'm holding still through the picture.
That'd be an interesting thing to test.
Great points. Even seasoned photographers need to see this, just to slow down and get it right.
Only other advice
1) cable release ir remote for tripid shoting
And
2) turning off VR or lens stableasation features, not to counter act using a tripod.
Thanks
Thanks for the comment Mark. Turning off IS when on a tripod is something I need to test on my Sony gear. I never do it but who knows, I might be leaving a bunch of sharpness on the table.
Prime lens, fast lens .
Sharp crisp photos are largely depends on quality lens. 🇮🇳
Basic photo knowledge from +30 years ago. Know the rules to break / bend them. Noise / grain can't only be a stylistic tool - it can also imitate details without killing sharpness... The perfect photo doesn't have to come out of camera, and many other thoughts...
These casual guides are helpful and handy, but take a look over your shoulder too.
At 14:30 the video shows you dusting off a camera lens that is pointed upward. The problem with that is that the dust particles tend to get pushed into the lens mounting. A better way is to point the lens downward while doing this, so gravity helps the particles to fall away from the lens.
Yeah, that does make total sense. Thanks for the comment.
You are right; similarly, when cleaning the camera sensor to face down.
High shutter speed for wildlife...especially with long lenses. For moving mammals typically > 1/500 sec, for large flying birds typically > 1/1500 sec,
In Body Stabilization (IBIS) in camera body and lens also helps. For stationary animals spot focus, for very close birds eye detection, for moving or flying animals zonal focus.
You're right. I didn't really comment on the length of the lens vs shutter speed RE catching movement. I should have mentioned that.
Thanks for the comment.
Rumor has it that Michael J. Fox always shoots at 1/80000.
Dark photography double pun intended.
Another TIP a PRO Shared with me in regards to the SHUTTER BUTTON, is to set the timer at 2 sec then lock focus, tap the shutter and wait for it to go off....VOILA. Of course, don't move the camera until the shutter is finished..😂😂
This has worked every time for me and I now use it for landscapes, low light, street, real estate stills, auto shows and anything NON MOVING.
This is with a DSLR right?
Higher iso doesnt = more noise. Lack of light = more noise.
Dont believe me shoot a properly lit scene at high iso and you will see.
Great and really True advised!, Thank you for share it!!
You're welcome. Glad you enjoyed the video :)!
silent shutter on mirrorless. No camera lens motion unless you need it. TRIPOD always works if it is a good one.
I think I need to investigate electronic shutter a little more. There has to be some downsides to it?
Nice job listing the items you were going to address, right up front.
Thanks Turbo. First time we've tried that and wasn't sure it'd be useful or not.
An additional tip: Always check your lens image stabilisation is switched on. It can easily be accidentally switched off as I once discovered. Another: use an unfashionable UV filter. Cleaning a front element scratches it - period. Clean a UV filter instead and throw it away when it gets old. Another: Get a chamois leather for wiping off rain drops.
Otherwise, a great video, not rocket science but great advise.
I started off with the UV filters but they were causing flare in the sun rise landscape stuff I like to do.
Appreciate the comment though. I guess I just have to live with my front elements slowly getting scratched up.
@@Photography-Explained no need to put a $100 filter on a $3K lens. More importantly is to have and use a neck strap if not using the tripod and for anytime one is walking around and more importantly use a lens shade for helping with flare and more importantly if by chance the photographer or the camera make a quick visit to mother earth or harder surface.
Regarding focusing in portrait photography -- many years ago I learned from Al Gilbert that one should not focus on the eye but rather on the bridge of the nose and then one can make use of the DOF of the lens and aperture and focus distance to provide "acceptable focus of both eyes whereas if the lens is focused on the far eye the near eye will never been in good focus or visa versa. When the subject is in full face generally this will not be an issue but also generally a 2/3 facial view is more attractive to the subject.
I like to try to find something in the scene that is going to give an approximately 18% shade of gray or a proportion of that and focus on that location if it can be 1/3 of the way into the overall image unless there is a subject matter of most importance in a different location and then make use of imaging software to appropriately adjust the final resultant image.
That's really interesting @phlotographer. I'll give that a whirl. Thanks for the comment mate.
Sorry, incorrect - the ISO is the gain or "volume" applied to the image. The sensor's sensitivity is locked at design and manufacture - cant't be changed afterward. Just like film sensitivity is locked when they come up with how much silver will be put into the formula when manufactured.
Thanks for the comment mate.
Great video thanks for your work!! Subscribed :)
Cheers Dan. I really appreciate the kind words mate!
Thx for the vid for a beginner. What's the tripod at 11:45 you are using?
You're welcome. I'm glad you enjoyed the video :).
I got the tripod off amazon "SIRUI Camera Tripod for Travel, Carbon Fibre Tripod for Camera AM-225+B-00K".
Super lightweight but not that sturdy. I use a Gitzo tripod if I'm taking things seriously or I'm shooting in bad weather.
Hope that helps.
A great way to summarize several tips, which are always good to discover or remember. I'm lucky enough to possess two cameras. One (small) is on a S focus mode because I use it mostly for street photo when you need to be fast and discreet. I set the other on the manual mode because I have time and it's the best way to make sure your focus is where you want and as accurate as possible. Having the focusing highlight option ON makes my life easier. I always favour the apperture mode because it's so decisive in the type of photo, so I have the rest (ISO and speed) in an automatic set up. Shooting at very high ISO (12,600) creates noise but some photo editors have become extremely good at removing it without creating any blur (if photos in RAW mode). I use DxO photo lab for this task, which for me it's the best, but Topaz Photo AI is also very good at that job.
Thanks for the comment Eric. I've got the Topaz app for de-noising but I haven't tried the DxO one yet.
I understand, but what if I want to take photo an airplane? Tripod is not an option.
You can’t have a photo that is in focus from front to back. Focus only occurs on one plane. DOF only makes a photo appear in focus in front of and in rear of the focus plane.
If a scene fits within the DOF of a focal plane, is it not in focus from front to back? Thanks for the comment.
You can use focus stacking
But what about hand holding with Image stabilization and in-camera stabilization?? Or both as in my R5 with f 2.8 70-200 L lens
What specifically about IS/IBIS are you asking about Richard?
Thanks for the comment mate.
Hmmm, I've found that most landscape photography channels rarely recommend f16, in fact most talk about the dangers of refraction at f16 and higher (ff obviously, as f16 on mf is far from unusual) I've actually found that most channels actually tend to recommend f8 to f11. Then of course there's the need for a narrow aperture the closer foreground is, or wideish aperture if shooting long with no foreground.
Then of course there's the frankly ridiculous notion that a landscape image absolutely must be tack sharp front to back, even our eyes, masterpieces of nature that they are, aren't capable of seeing a scene sharp front to back. There's a perfectly valid argument for natural DoF in landscape images, especially in woodland, which I tend to photograph at around 5.6 to allow for natural falloff through the scene.
So (pun intended) not everything is black and white.
Thanks for the comment. I watch most of the big landscape channels and I've seen it mentioned a bunch which is why I included it.
Perhaps I need to watch more skilled photographers :D.
@@Photography-Explained Good last comment. Lately I have been using a Viltrox 27 mm f 1.2 with a Fuji X T5 and use f4 - f 5.6 which tends to be the "sweet" spot of the lens and the rest of the techniques to get sharp images with sometimes some minor tweaks in PP using PhotoScape X Free/Pro software.
Thanks... helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Only people who understand this is the ones who already know
Great video, would you have a chart that we could print so we can take with us when taking pics? Thanks
Hi Albert, funny you should ask! I'm literally working on a bunch of printable "cheat sheets" at the moment. Keep an eye out next week and they'll be available for free for people who watch the channel.
@@Photography-Explained Thanks
Landscape photography
Yep
You forgot the 'stop the wind blowing' one. 😀
Difficult one to explain in a 10 minute video :P.
@@Photography-Explained Agreed, but it would be worth stating that if the subject is moving, and we can't use a high enough shutter speed, we won't get sharp results despite all your tips.
Video coming on shutter speed specifically soon :).
I still can’t figure out what I did wrong. New to Fuji, (X-T1) using the kit lens. Taking pics of my grandson in low light. So I put it on auto ISO, lens on auto and on Face Detection, and spot metering. When I shot at low speed, handheld, the exposure was correct, but totally out of focus. If I tried to up the speed to 1/160, say, (still very slow) the exposure was way too dark. So why didn’t auto ISO kick in? It stayed at 800. I later noticed that the ‘Default sensitivity’ was set at 200. Is that the problem?
Hey Maryl, couple of thoughts -
Do you have a high enough max ISO set up? i.e. when you change your shutter to 1/160 can the ISO go high enough to manage the exposure?
If you haven't changed any of the ISO ranges in camera, "Auto3" will get the upper ISO range you need - fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x100f/menu_shooting/iso_auto_setting/index.html
You didn't mention your aperture. Really you need f2.8 lenses on Fuji at a minimum to take pictures if it's getting dark an you need to freeze the movement of a a kid running around. One of the kit lenses will only do this at it's widest end and the other kit lens that I used to have starts at f4.
Hope that helps!
@@Photography-Explained Thank you very much for replying to me! I had thought by setting my lens on ‘ Auto’, that it would pick the right aperture for me. I obviously am a newbie, so will look more into this. And yes, today upped my ISO sensitivity to 6400. Most photos I took that day were ISO 800 and at F4. I am 81 and am realizing handholding the camera is a problem now. I think I need a faster lens, or use a tripod. The goofy thing is - if I had been using my phone, I would have gotten great shots. How do they do that!!! Thank you again for your help.
Ok, I solved my problem -a Viltrox 1.4. - Just a beautiful lens and has cured my shaky hands very well.
Glad you got it sorted Maryl :). Probably just needed more literal light hitting the sensor.
@@Photography-Explained and that too!
Good video. Is that a K&H Concept gimble head? I have been looking at them for a while.
It's the K&H geared head yes. I don't have much to compare it with but I much prefer it for my landscape photography vs a ball head.
@Photography-Explained I just picked up the Neewer one. I have been doing some moon photography, and a ball head is about impossible. I have a star tracker, but I'm working my way up to it. I have been out of the hobby for a long time.
What about using crop sensor lenses on a full frame camera because you just bought a big boy camera but you've spent thousands on crop sensor lenses and can't afford to go and spend thousands more 9n fullframe lenses.
I'm not sure what your question is here Mike?
Thanks for the comment though.
@@Photography-Explained oh the question was about shutter speed in relation to lens size and having to make the adjustment for if you were using a 35mm or a crop sensor. So what if I'm using crop sensor lens on a full frame camera.
Landscape photograhy
For sure!
Nice education techniques
Thanks mate. I really appreciate the comment.
Regardless of shutter speed, ISO etc.. always check for any front or back focus issues with your lenses. Not only dslr's but mirror less cameras can have them too. I you do not get this right first nothing well help.
How do you go about checking this?
@@Photography-Explained There are multiple ways such as a calibration aid. It is a sort of ruler placed at a 45 degree angle. Or just do some trial and error with the af fine tune feature in your camera and see which entered valua gives the best result. Or use a tripod, focus manually on a subject with your liveview at 200%.Then hit the release button half way and see if your focus scale of your lens stays at the same position. And there are other ways but these I use.
Nice one. I'll give it a go.
@@Photography-Explained One thing about the last method I forgot. After you have focussed manually shut off the liveview and then hit the release button. You want to verify if the phase detection autofocus is on spot. If you leave it in liveview you will you use contrast detection autofocus and af fine tune has no influence on that. May a bit complicated but on the internet there is more than enough to read about that. This only goes for dslr's I think.
Great Video... Great advice !!!
Hey William, glad you found the video useful. Thanks for the comment mate.
what about a 50mm leans on a group photo
What specifically are you asking?
Thanks for the comment.
i try to get a sharp image on a group photoshoot but my leans was 50mm. but i end up with a blur image. pls what was the right thing to do
It could have been "blurry" because -
- Aperture was too open and so there wasn't enough depth of field to capture everyone.
- Shutter speed was too low and so small camera movement caused the blurring.
Either way, perhaps increase your ISO so that the aperture can be lower or shutter speed higher.
Hope that helps.
Some good tips today, thanks.
Cheers Rat. Keep running bro :).
if you want your views count to increase you do it right ... if you want to build your channel community of fellow photographers I doubt a bit that this is the right content for us ... but good luck with your channel and have a good light ...
Thanks for the comment and the feedback. I'd love for you to explain your comment in more detail so I can learn from it.
@@Photography-Explained It's my opinion but it seems to me that you've decided to make your videos to feed algorithm ... It could be your intent and decision, than my apologize .. You can ofc lead your channel wherever you wish ... Personally I would rather find another new channel about photography for photographers rather than channel where you describe what is ISO or Aperture .. But again, your channel, your decision .. Good luck with whatever you're doing and have a good light for your photography
Speak for yourself
@@sigsegv111clearly you don't understand the concept of explaining photography and how it relates to a channel called photography explained.
@@mikehoskin1674 1) I did, I spoke for myself, very clearly, even noticed that, 2) I spoke for myself (I considered this point so important that I've mentioned that twice), 3) the only clear thing here is that you obviously don't understand to discussion, to brainstorming ideas or concepts, to diversity of opinions, to collaborative approach, etc ... 4) and of course it seems that you're only able to perceive ideas of other people in two extremes, black and white thinking .. you don't see a little nuances that form many possible ways and resolutions that are otherwise hidden for people who cannot perceive these particular details ..
Here are the best ways to achieve sharp images -
1. Know which are among the best lenses ... and actually use them. Many of them are not remarkably expensive, but NONE of them are "inexpensive."
2. Use a high enough shutter speed to stop motion of both your subject and your camera.
It's quite often a much higher shutter speed than you'd otherwise assume, often shorter than 1/2000 of a second.
3. Know how to get absolutely accurate focus, and know what to focus on.
4. Use an aperture which is a few stops down from wide open. We're talking about lens resolution here, and not about depth of field, which is an entirely different topic. Lens defraction at very small
f/stops such as f/16 and thereabouts will reduce lens resolution ... not to a remarkable degree, but at least somewhat noticeable if you happen to be a pixel peeper.
Really appreciate you taking the time to summarise your top tips for all the viewers Scott.
Thanks for the comment.
Not sure if anyone else notices this trend of people varying their voice volume. Sounding very loud then they're so quiet you can't understand what word they are saying. It has to be the most frustrating thing, I currently unfollow & block these channels due to it. I'm not trying to be mean, it's truly a pet peeve of mine. Either you are trying to say something or you're not.. unsure? Zap
Hey mate. I'm sorry that you couldn't understand me.
It's not some trick the way I talk on the videos. That's generally how I talk.
If you can't understand something it could be that the audio isn't being compressed enough.
I appreciate the feedback.
What did you use to listen to the video? Phone speaker, headphones etc?
If i could produce a video of this calibre - highly informative, non-patronising, friendly, I would be very pleased. Moreover, it is free. There’s a lot of information here for beginners and intermediate photographers. The pace is perfect.
As for volume fluctuations in the delivery, I truly didn’t notice. I was absorbing his advice so I may have been distracted by my learning. I suspect that you already have the knowledge that he was imparting.
YT has videos on everything. Sometimes I find myself watching videos of little personal interest. It’s best to switch to something else if one is bored. Otherwise, one can get overly picky.
Sounds good to me.
I currently live in Wales. People here speak that way naturally.
@99muddy99 I am sorry that I hurt your feelings. It was constructive criticism. I do produce high budget Tv & Movies. If you are making this comment due to the channel I'm using, this is not my main YT channel FYI. I have worked in Tv & Film professionally for years. You are being rather petty & sensitive over a comment not directed to you.. it truly doesn't look good
Industry advice: by the latest handy, let AI take over control of the settings, be quietly disappointed, by the next newest handy, repeat
Phone? 😊
What's a handy (in the context of photography...) Thanks for the comment?
At 10.25, 1/2000th for a racing car! 😳 What nonsense, pan with the car and use 1/60th to 1/100th or so, put a single focus point on something small and prominent like a door handle, mirror or decal and keep it there and you’ll have a picture of a car racing and not a car parked on the track!
Sure, if you're panning you can reduce the shutter.
He is trying to introduce people who are new to photography and teach them ways to get acceptable photos the methods you mention will come later as they progress.He is trying to demistify manual mode and giving good advice ie shutter priority and apature priority modes and auto ISO, and as the person learns the more advanced things will come. Don't be so dismissive to good advice for someone trying to learn !
@@alistairstephenson4145
Having introduced several people to manual mode including one registered blind, I firmly believe that it is easier to teach them to get the results they desire early, they are already p’d off with their photos and are trying to improve, almost every camera will give you cars parked on the track in auto mode, those are the photos that made them disillusioned in photography in the first place!
But you are not video cameraman ,
That is correct.
Thanks for commenting.
Pretty worthless for anyone other than a rank beginner. Waste of my time.
Thanks for the comment Owen. This RUclips channel is for beginners. Sounds like you've got the basics nailed.
@@Photography-Explained Just think that possibly 24999 folks enjoyed and likely gleaned something of value from the presentation or the comments. Glad you "wasted" you time making it LOL!!!
You couldn’t tell it was for beginners right away? Are you really trying to tell us how ‘advanced’ you are? Not impressed.
Thanks for the backup guys :).
auto focus and a tripod wtf!!???
Sorry, you've lost me here. Do you not trust the autofocus on a modern camera, in a well lit landscape scene at f11?
And your problem is?