Option 1: Shooting full manual camera & full manual flash (Most challenging & slowest but most consistency & control): 1. Set your camera to manual & expose for your ambient light using shutter/aperture/ISO combo. A good starting place is as @christineDibiase wrote (1/60-1/100 and ISO 400 - 1200). I would go even as far as ISO 3200. Then, only make small half-full stop adjustments to ISO if the lighting changes a little. 2. Set your flash to manual 1/32 power, stand in front of your model at the desired distance. 3. Shoot. If your model is too dark increase the flash power by a stop or two. If your model is too bright, decrease the flash power by a stop or two. Don't touch the camera settings for adjusting flash brightness! Option 2: Shooting semi-auto camera mode (i.e. Aperture or Shutter priority) & full manual flash (Easier & quicker than Option 1 but you lose some consistency & control): 1. Set your camera to one of the semi auto modes & expose for your ambient light first using either shutter/ISO or aperture/ISO combo respectively depending on which semi-atuo mode you chose. If you think the camera's metering of the scene is too bright or too dark then use the EXPOSURE compensation button on your camera to increase or decrease the exposure by a stop or two. The exposure compensation function overrides the camera's suggested "correct" metering allowing you to fine tune exposure to taste. 2. Set your flash to manual 1/32 power & stand in front of your model at the desired distance. 3. Shoot. If your model is too dark increase the flash power by a stop or two. If your model is too bright, decrease the flash power by a stop or two. Don't touch the camera settings for adjusting flash brightness! Option 3: Shooting semi-atuo camera mode (i.e. Aperture or Shutter priority) & TTL-flash (Easier & quicker than option 2 but you lose a little more consistency & control than Option 2): 1. Set your camera to one of the semi auto modes & expose for your ambient light first using either shutter/ISO or aperture/ISO combo respectively depending on which semi-atuo mode you chose. If you think the camera's metering of the scene is too bright or too dark then use the EXPOSURE compensation button on your camera to increase or decrease the exposure by a stop or two. The exposure compensation function overrides the camera's suggested "correct" metering allowing you to fine tune exposure to taste. 2. Set your flash to TTL mode & stand in front of your model at the desired distance. 3. Shoot. If your model is too dark increase use the FLASH EXPOSURE compensation button on your flash unit to increase power by a stop or two. If your model is too bright, decrease the flash power by a stop or two using the same FLASH EXPOSURE compensation button. Don't touch the camera settings for adjusting flash brightness! Option 4: Full auto camera & TTL flash (Easiest and quickest but least consistent and no control): 1. Set your camera to full auto & set your flash to TTL. 2. Point and shoot. Which one of these options to use is down to personal preference and taste. If you're in a fast paced environment, care more about getting the shot and don't care about consistency, well then option 4. If you're in a slow paced environment, want full control & consistency then option 1. I personally shoot option 2 most times as I dislike the camera metering pre-flash on TTL-Flash mode (wastes battery quicker than manual flash). NOTE: If you're looking to add drama to your shoot, you can try and underexpose your ambient exposure by a stop of two before then adding flash. Hope this clears some things up )
@@radshoesbro Doubling your iso is adding a full stop of light. So from 100 to 200. Or 400 to 800. Or 6400 to 12800. So half that value is a half stop of light. 100 to 150 or 400 to 600…. You get the idea
David, thank you for this episode! I’m primarily a location headshot photographer and recently a client asked if I would also cover a small graduation ceremony for entrepreneur students I’d taken headshots of. I haven’t shot an event in literally years and my only on camera flash is a Canon 430EX II that I use as a background light. I found this video, learned how to adjust my ISO and aperture and the images were much, much better than I expected! I still prefer shooting headshots but now I’m not uncomfortable handling on-camera flash. Thank you!!
We dont choose a video, a video chooses us!!!! I was waiting, frantically searching for knowledge like this. Cannot thank you enough.!!!! Love from India🇮🇳
Great video Dave. Depending on the wall color and distance, sometimes I point the flash 180 degrees back. A powerful flash brightens up the whole room with no harsh light or harsh shadows.
Good tip. But just like I said to some others posters below about bouncing off a side wall, you can't depend on a wall being in the right place all the time during a "run and gun" situation.
You've helped me out when it comes to shooting indoor events when I am using bounced flash and don't want the backgrounds behind my subjects to go dark.
I used to do event ("Party PIc") photography back in the film camera days. With a standard auto thyristor flash, no TTL required - no changing apertures required. You set the flash and the aperture to f/5.6 and leave it alone. The DOF that provides on a 50mm lens is enough to get good focus using the "zone focus" method: 2-3 people = 5ft away, 4-7 people = 7ft away, bigger groups = 10ft. Mark your lens with some glow in the dark tape and just turn to the appropriate point on the lens depending on group size. The flash will take care of the exposure by consistently putting out the appropriate amount of light to get an exposure at f/5.6 (we were using ISO 400 film).
2nd time watching this video. I had not originally paid much attention to how the Inverse Square Law effects this type shooting (dark background), but after watching again and trying to guess what David was going to do about the dark background, it then set off the "light bulb" of what I already knew, but didn't access that part if my brain at the time. Thanks so much for this tutorial video.
Great video. There are so many ways to push or bounce light just be careful of ceiling colors as bars are generally dark colored. I've used an index card and rubber band to bounce light.
Very valuable video. I am shooting every night this week at an event and while I have been successful in the past, this video clearly explained what I think I am doing and will help me problem solve much faster and get set up right out of the gate. One this to mention is that you need to stand the same distance from your subject also so as to not have to change settings.
வீடியோ மிகவும் பயனுள்ளதாக இருந்தது மிக்க நன்றி இரா.மனோகர் சென்னை . Very useful video sir, I learned lot from it, looking forward more videos like this keep it up good work, thank you R.MANOHAR ,Chennai.
Hi David This is a pretty good video . I'm trying to learn how to use my on camera flash . Its hard to find a video that shows how to use it with normal every day use like taking photo of the 4 year old grand baby playing in the house . Or a family get together group photo around the Christmas tree . I want to control the shutter speed because of the fast moving 4 year old , I want to try to avoid hand movement blur . With the group photo I want to know how to set the flash before hand with a group photo as once everyone is lined up a don't have to take 20 shots to get the right lighting . How do I figure out the settings before hand to get the peoples faces the correct exposure and the Christmas tree behind them . I have the most impatient family ever . I never realized how hard it is to get say 10 people to just look at the camera and stand in one spot for say 2 minutes can be . How do I know what power of flash to use ? If I want to control the shutter speed , aperture and iso how does the flash in Auto ettl mode know what power to flash at ? Lets say for example I want to have the Christmas tree just behind everyone in perfect exposure and I want the people in front of the tree in perfect exposure How to I adjust the flash so it doesn't effect the tree lights but lights up the peoples faces to the correct exposure at the same time ?
Great video, thank you. I have a. job coming up where I need to shoot 12 girls indoors either in a single row or maybe 2 rows. How would you suggest I light for something like this?
nice tuto. iso 3200 makes 5 stops with respect to iso100 to cover few meters of background ? so F/2.8, iso 800, 1/100sec would make the job on my d300+24-70 2.8 with sb900 in ttl ?
Really just depends how bright or dark the background is. Set your exposure for that and then add the TTL flash in. Sometimes depth of field at 2.8 might be a little too shallow - especially if photographing multiple people, but it's personal preference.
Nice video. The trick is to have the power setting to a constant power, subject at the same distance ex 10ft., aperture and shutter for the general location fixed, then use a zoom to frame subject. Make your settings work for the most general background. That's my formula.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto I have one question. Do I need to have Flash that has iTTL when I am buying a trigger from the same company that is having both iTTL and manual mode? In my understanding, I can mount a manual flash over iTTL trigger as on the Camera and also use off camera flash still being able to use iTTL mode of the camera because the trigger is iTTL capable. One with HSS flash and iTTL capable trigger: www.amazon.de/dp/B01M1HTK5K/?coliid=I2GJT17E9A3MS1&colid=J7QGI0CTJSFK&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Another manual flash with iTTL capable trigger: www.amazon.de/dp/B0194S54SQ/?coliid=I3AVTDEDA0B9NU&colid=J7QGI0CTJSFK&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Hope you manage to answer this before Saturday 😬 My camera has an option for object flash focus or blend with the background light focus. We are going to a Xmas dinner on Saturday, and I'm thinking about bringing my camera and take photos. Standard camera flash, not a pro version. There will be solo and group shots. My flash can go 3 steps up and to the sides.
So you're in TTL (through the lens / auto mode) for this, so the camera & flash are compensating (sending less light on to Brooke) as you bump up the ISO to bring out the back ground..
I’ve got the Magmod system and I love it! I’ve gotten into the habit of shooting flash in manual, but I think it’s time to do a little ETTL testing again. Thanks for the video David and Adorama.
I use manual for controlled situations where my lights are on stands and are the same distance from the subject for every shot. But when working "run and gun," TTL is the way to go so the flash adjusts as necessary when you move closer or farther away from your subject.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto That makes sense, but your settings for the background (i.e. aperture, SS and ISO) were all "guesstimates"? Also, why do you distinguish aperture from SS and ISO when adjusting for the background exposure: Is it because you have a specific DOF in mind? Otherwise, in theory, if you wanted, couldn't you just open up the aperture to get a brighter background and have the TTL adjust the flash output? BTW, thanks for the clear explanation.
@@normankleinberg5525 I know this is 2 years later but when you shoot anything you should choose your aperture by the look you want your pictures to have - that generally means when you choose your aperture you have a certain depth of field in mind. To drink in more ambient light in the scene you COULD open up your aperture but then you'd be changing your depth of field, ergo the general look of your pictures. What you need to do is slow your shutter speed down a bit and raise your ISO to let more light into your camera.
Looks like you have a very large soft light at the side of your subject, if I’m correct. Doesn’t that mean these pictures are not solely the product of a one on camera light setup?
Should have mentioned the fact that you were using TTL in the beginning of the video, would have made it easier for beginners to understand the whole video 😉
Shooting with our DSLR at horizontal shots the flash light bounce fine but how about when we use our DSLR to vertical shots? I found the flash won't bounce evenly to the model even using light modifier.
Yeah - sometimes I still shoot horizontal, and then I just crop vertically in post. This way, I don’t get that funky side shadow. If there isn’t a wall in back of the subject, I’ll just shoot with my camera aim the vertical position.
Don't mount your modifier on the broad side of the flash like most of the manufacturers advertise; instead, mount the modifier on the narrow end of your speedlight. That way you can seamlessly switch between vertical and horizontal orientation and your light stays above your lens. Learned that several years ago watching a vid and never mounted modifiers on the broad side again! :)
Youre likely not still following this post, but does iso not increase the ambient light, AND the light from the flash, thus making the subject far too bright?
Hi David, thank you for your vídeo! One question if you don't mind... How do you handle White balance when you use flash, on Auto?? Also, if your calling is Too high and no Walls near, would you use that Magmode or something similar or is it better to shoot straight do the person?? Thank you so much!
hi i want to ask for something whenever i put flash on my camera its gets darker so sometimes its hard to focus on subject , my camera is m50 and its not good with high iso (over 800) even 1/1 flash power is not enough to bright the place T.T but when i put the flash on tripod and use transmitter its getting brighter again but as you know in events and birthdays its hard to put the flash on a specific place🥲 my flash is godox tt600
Hi David. When shooting TTL, your camera doesn't know if your flash is straight toward your subject or if you are bouncing the light on the ceiling. Do you have to adjust it with flash compensation? Also, if you focus on your subject and recompense your frame, does the TTL mesure stays the same or changes as the focus point is not the same. Hope my English and questions are clear enough 😬
@@Skux720 You need to worry about compensation if TTL doesn't give you the exposure you want. In that case you use FEC (Flash Exposure Compensation) to override what TTL is giving you.
It's your choice. You can definitely do that if (1) those are the settings that will give you the ambient light exposure you want, and (2) if f/2.8 gives you the depth of field - and by extension the general look - you want in your shots. Not everyone likes to shoot at wide apertures for all people photography, no matter what you see people teaching.
Thanks for your video. However, I don't see how it's run and gun if you had to preset your exposure (3) settings. I know you can bring in the background by lowering your shutter speed, but doesn't increasing the ISO make everything brighter. Also, I need to know what metering mode (I assume evaluative) and shutter/aperture priority modes (you said preset the shutter speed). So, with your settings, you cannot move backward or forward. As Gabriel said, what about the power setting on the flash? Is it auto or manual, etc.
I'm presetting the 3 exposure settings and locking them in to expose for the background. Then letting the flash (on TTL) adjust frame-to-frame for the light on the subject as needed based on my distance to her as it changes. I'm using evaluative metering.
No. You only need Rear Sync if you're dragging your shutter (using a very slow shutter speed) to get motion blur in your shots while the flash freezes the subjects to keep them sharp. Rear Sync ensures that the motion blur streaks of the subject come from behind them. If you use First Curtain Sync for this kind of shot the motion blur streaks will appear to come from in front of the subject making the whole shot look very odd and unnatural.
Great vid. There are modifiers where you wouldn't have to sacrifice the warmth and you can control whether or not you want to include the frontal light as well as ceiling bounce in your exposure (Flashbenders, the Demb bounce cards, and many others do this. The MagBounce is an either or situation and that's a huge con for me). Oh, it's VERY important to note that if your event location is extremely dark, TTL will NOT work for you. At that point there is little choice but to use manual flash. And yes, it's doable. Just takes a decent amount of practise.
When I use the flash , there are plenty of shadows appearing on all images, some images goes very dark even after firing flash straight. Is there any thing I should do with the flash zoom ?or how can I get a poc without shadow in it. Pls answer
I use the Canon EOS R I pushed my ISO 1250 1600 3200 with a flash. I get a ton of noise??? Can you tell me how camera does not show noise and grain? What am I doing wrong
I'm confused- he went from ISO 100, then way up to ISO 6400 to get the background , but the model was still properly exposed in both shots? I expected her to be fully blown out / overexposed in the 2nd shot with ISO 6400. I;m still a newb to this but it seems like he went from ISO 100 to maybe 300 or 400. Can anyone explain?
David you mentioned you use TTL on the flash, but on the camera are you using manual, manual with auto ISO, shutter speed priority, aperture priority, or something else so you don't need to constantly adjust the ambient light/exposure for the background? Thanks
Mount your bounce card/modifier on the narrow end of your flash (not the broad side like gear manufacturers seem to tell everyone). That way when you shoot vertically your light stays above your lens and your vertical shots will be just fine :)
its a good informative video however I found some key information missing. basically how do you meter the flash light with the magbounce on it. do you use TTL or do you control it manually and if it is done manually, how do you do it? the same question also applies to bouncing the light off the ceiling or side walls. hope you can answer them.
The whole video is him using TTL. TTL takes into account the modifier, bounce, distance and all that stuff. But if you have to do it manually, you would have no choice but to do it on the spot. That's just the nature of manual flash in a run and gun event situation. But the more you practice doing it the easier it becomes and you get to know the ballpark power settings for the distances between you and your subjects.
I am confused. So by just by bumping up the ISO around 4:45 and you get the same exposure on the subject but the background is suddenly exposed properly?! How is that possible? Is that because you're using the flash in TTL mode?
Exactly. TTL is an automatic flash setting. No matter what combination of settings (Aperture, shutter speed, ISO) you set your camera to - within reason, of course - TTL will adjust the flash power in an effort to keep giving you a consistent exposure until you adjust Flash Exposure Compensation to either darken or brighten your flash exposure on your subject.
Flash in manual; raise or lower the power of the flash to increase or decrease exposure. Flash in TTL; use FEC (Flash Exposure Compensation) to increase or decrease exposure. Flash in TTL will fire at relatively the same power as long as nothing has changed with the on camera settings or the flash distance o subject. FEC tells the flash to increase or decrease the power by the number you've dialed in. In other words it's TTL + or - the number you dialed in.
A couple of further tips: When using a kicker card, I use a gray one, sort a medium to light gray. I don't need as much kick as a white card gives, but it still gives eye catchlights. With the MagBounce, try turning it around backwards. That gives a softer light, but also includes more of the room bounce. I also always use TTL, because if I'm getting too much flash on the subject I can quickly adjust the exposure compensation on the flash. And yes, as others have mentioned, if you see that you need more background exposure, just change the shutter speed. Also, my Canon R5 allows setting TTL (even with third party flashes like my Adorama Flashpoint) to weight the flash and ambient either balanced, weighted more toward the flash, or weighted more toward the ambient.
Lately i usually do a test shot on manual flash at 1/32 or 1/64 power if i am gonna just bounce it. Fix my shutter speed at 1/160 - 1/200 and just control everything with ISO. the further u want that light to hit the higher it goes but rarely during an event do i need to go beyond 4000 (wedding dinner/ reception or indoor engagement)
That's fine if your distance to subject is always about the same. Granted, the distance change isn't as extreme when you're bouncing off the ceiling, but I prefer TTL on the flash to let it adjust if I move closer or further away.
For events this will change as your situation will never be the exact same as someone else's. Nobody can tell you where to keep your flash power at for run and gun events. It can change from shot to shot, especially when using TTL like David was here. So he couldn't tell you what power he used anyhow because TTL doesn't give you that information.
The fstoppers flashdisc is the best modifier ive used for this, eats light but results are great when you cant bounce flash. Only downside is everyone asks you "what the hell is that thing"
Hi, I really appreciate this. Quick question I am doing a sports team photo indoors inside a gym for my very first time. Would the bounce of the light with the magnetic piece bounce to cover 11 kids?
Just curious. What settings did you use on the flash and also I have used a speedlight on my Nikon camera and when I do, no matter which settings or mode it shows underexposed. Any ideas why that would be? It only happens when using a speedlight. I mostly shoot in Manual, sometimes Aperture. I have tried setting the flash on manual and 1/32 or 1/16 power.
Great video. I have a grown folks birthday party to shoot. It's usually pretty dark at these events. I like to keep my ISO below 2000 if I can. I got the diffuser that came with my speed light, the built in flash card pop up bounce thing, and a Gary Fong spaceship looking thing. I'm not sure which way to go with so many choices so my plan is to have a look at the space fire some test shots then formulate a plan of action based on the ceiling. I just bought an sb 700 and since it has that pop up bounce card I think it will help with exposure when I'm zooming in from far away. That's why I'm hoping for a lower ceiling so I don't have to use anything but what comes with the speed light and just point at the ceiling, switching back and forth between pop up can and no card. My question is really about my lense choice. I have a 44-70 f2.8 and a 24-120 f4. I'm leaning towards the 24-120 because of the ability to zoom further even tho the 24-70 can let in more light. I'm thinking I don't need the 2.8 if I have a flash and want more things in focus. What say you? I know I said allot, lol.
If it's a choice beterrn the crappy bounce card that comes with speedlights and the Gary Fong Lightsphere, definitely go with the Gary Fong. Much nicer quality of light.
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Option 1: Shooting full manual camera & full manual flash (Most challenging & slowest but most consistency & control):
1. Set your camera to manual & expose for your ambient light using shutter/aperture/ISO combo. A good starting place is as @christineDibiase wrote (1/60-1/100 and ISO 400 - 1200). I would go even as far as ISO 3200. Then, only make small half-full stop adjustments to ISO if the lighting changes a little.
2. Set your flash to manual 1/32 power, stand in front of your model at the desired distance.
3. Shoot. If your model is too dark increase the flash power by a stop or two. If your model is too bright, decrease the flash power by a stop or two. Don't touch the camera settings for adjusting flash brightness!
Option 2: Shooting semi-auto camera mode (i.e. Aperture or Shutter priority) & full manual flash (Easier & quicker than Option 1 but you lose some consistency & control):
1. Set your camera to one of the semi auto modes & expose for your ambient light first using either shutter/ISO or aperture/ISO combo respectively depending on which semi-atuo mode you chose. If you think the camera's metering of the scene is too bright or too dark then use the EXPOSURE compensation button on your camera to increase or decrease the exposure by a stop or two. The exposure compensation function overrides the camera's suggested "correct" metering allowing you to fine tune exposure to taste.
2. Set your flash to manual 1/32 power & stand in front of your model at the desired distance.
3. Shoot. If your model is too dark increase the flash power by a stop or two. If your model is too bright, decrease the flash power by a stop or two. Don't touch the camera settings for adjusting flash brightness!
Option 3: Shooting semi-atuo camera mode (i.e. Aperture or Shutter priority) & TTL-flash (Easier & quicker than option 2 but you lose a little more consistency & control than Option 2):
1. Set your camera to one of the semi auto modes & expose for your ambient light first using either shutter/ISO or aperture/ISO combo respectively depending on which semi-atuo mode you chose. If you think the camera's metering of the scene is too bright or too dark then use the EXPOSURE compensation button on your camera to increase or decrease the exposure by a stop or two. The exposure compensation function overrides the camera's suggested "correct" metering allowing you to fine tune exposure to taste.
2. Set your flash to TTL mode & stand in front of your model at the desired distance.
3. Shoot. If your model is too dark increase use the FLASH EXPOSURE compensation button on your flash unit to increase power by a stop or two. If your model is too bright, decrease the flash power by a stop or two using the same FLASH EXPOSURE compensation button. Don't touch the camera settings for adjusting flash brightness!
Option 4: Full auto camera & TTL flash (Easiest and quickest but least consistent and no control):
1. Set your camera to full auto & set your flash to TTL.
2. Point and shoot.
Which one of these options to use is down to personal preference and taste. If you're in a fast paced environment, care more about getting the shot and don't care about consistency, well then option 4. If you're in a slow paced environment, want full control & consistency then option 1. I personally shoot option 2 most times as I dislike the camera metering pre-flash on TTL-Flash mode (wastes battery quicker than manual flash).
NOTE: If you're looking to add drama to your shoot, you can try and underexpose your ambient exposure by a stop of two before then adding flash.
Hope this clears some things up )
Awesome reply, thank you
Forgive my ignorance here, but how does one make a half-stop ISO adjustment?
@@radshoesbro Doubling your iso is adding a full stop of light. So from 100 to 200. Or 400 to 800. Or 6400 to 12800. So half that value is a half stop of light. 100 to 150 or 400 to 600…. You get the idea
Option 5.
Full manual camera.
Ttl Flash 👌
@@BealeIam that's how I do it!
David, thank you for this episode! I’m primarily a location headshot photographer and recently a client asked if I would also cover a small graduation ceremony for entrepreneur students I’d taken headshots of. I haven’t shot an event in literally years and my only on camera flash is a Canon 430EX II that I use as a background light. I found this video, learned how to adjust my ISO and aperture and the images were much, much better than I expected! I still prefer shooting headshots but now I’m not uncomfortable handling on-camera flash. Thank you!!
We dont choose a video, a video chooses us!!!!
I was waiting, frantically searching for knowledge like this.
Cannot thank you enough.!!!!
Love from India🇮🇳
Glad to help! Next time, just Ask David Bergman. :)
Great video Dave. Depending on the wall color and distance, sometimes I point the flash 180 degrees back. A powerful flash brightens up the whole room with no harsh light or harsh shadows.
Good tip. But just like I said to some others posters below about bouncing off a side wall, you can't depend on a wall being in the right place all the time during a "run and gun" situation.
You've helped me out when it comes to shooting indoor events when I am using bounced flash and don't want the backgrounds behind my subjects to go dark.
PERFECT video for me, got an event shoot coming up this weekend. Thanks David!
Just bought a Godox V860iii and this is a brilliant tutorial for me as I didn’t know how to balance flash with ambient light. Big 👍
Love it!! Each time I rewatch it, I learn something new again that I missed before. 📸💯✅
I used to do event ("Party PIc") photography back in the film camera days. With a standard auto thyristor flash, no TTL required - no changing apertures required. You set the flash and the aperture to f/5.6 and leave it alone. The DOF that provides on a 50mm lens is enough to get good focus using the "zone focus" method: 2-3 people = 5ft away, 4-7 people = 7ft away, bigger groups = 10ft. Mark your lens with some glow in the dark tape and just turn to the appropriate point on the lens depending on group size. The flash will take care of the exposure by consistently putting out the appropriate amount of light to get an exposure at f/5.6 (we were using ISO 400 film).
Ah the good ole' days! Technology has made things easier and more complicated at the same time. :)
nice and clear explanation of how to use a flash for a beginner. helped me more than a lot of the videos I've watched
2nd time watching this video. I had not originally paid much attention to how the Inverse Square Law effects this type shooting (dark background), but after watching again and trying to guess what David was going to do about the dark background, it then set off the "light bulb" of what I already knew, but didn't access that part if my brain at the time. Thanks so much for this tutorial video.
Great video. There are so many ways to push or bounce light just be careful of ceiling colors as bars are generally dark colored. I've used an index card and rubber band to bounce light.
Perfect, I'm shooting my daughter's baby shower this weekend. Now I know what to do for lighting.
Very valuable video. I am shooting every night this week at an event and while I have been successful in the past, this video clearly explained what I think I am doing and will help me problem solve much faster and get set up right out of the gate. One this to mention is that you need to stand the same distance from your subject also so as to not have to change settings.
Always good stuff. I sometimes share these with students at the school where I work.
வீடியோ மிகவும் பயனுள்ளதாக இருந்தது மிக்க நன்றி
இரா.மனோகர் சென்னை .
Very useful video sir, I learned lot from it, looking forward more videos like this keep it up good work, thank you R.MANOHAR ,Chennai.
Extremely useful video. I have been struggling with indoor events
Glad this helps!
Not many people explain things as well
And clear as David
Great tip and example. Nice to see you back at Adorama.
David, that was great info. Very helpful. Thank you!
Just in time for a brush up on indoor flash photography. NY is too cold for any outdoor activity lol.
can i ask how to setting VK750 SPEEDLITE to canon 60D for indoor thanks
I will say this is the best on camera flash video on the hold RUclips!
Thank you!
Hi David This is a pretty good video . I'm trying to learn how to use my on camera flash . Its hard to find a video that shows how to use it with normal every day use like taking photo of the 4 year old grand baby playing in the house . Or a family get together group photo around the Christmas tree .
I want to control the shutter speed because of the fast moving 4 year old , I want to try to avoid hand movement blur .
With the group photo I want to know how to set the flash before hand with a group photo as once everyone is lined up a don't have to take 20 shots to get the right lighting . How do I figure out the settings before hand to get the peoples faces the correct exposure and the Christmas tree behind them . I have the most impatient family ever . I never realized how hard it is to get say 10 people to just look at the camera and stand in one spot for say 2 minutes can be .
How do I know what power of flash to use ? If I want to control the shutter speed , aperture and iso how does the flash in Auto ettl mode know what power to flash at ? Lets say for example I want to have the Christmas tree just behind everyone in perfect exposure and I want the people in front of the tree in perfect exposure How to I adjust the flash so it doesn't effect the tree lights but lights up the peoples faces to the correct exposure at the same time ?
Great video, thank you. I have a. job coming up where I need to shoot 12 girls indoors either in a single row or maybe 2 rows. How would you suggest I light for something like this?
A true master of your craft 👍🏽
nice tuto. iso 3200 makes 5 stops with respect to iso100 to cover few meters of background ? so F/2.8, iso 800, 1/100sec would make the job on my d300+24-70 2.8 with sb900 in ttl ?
Really just depends how bright or dark the background is. Set your exposure for that and then add the TTL flash in. Sometimes depth of field at 2.8 might be a little too shallow - especially if photographing multiple people, but it's personal preference.
im still having issues with dark background.. OR blown out if I set exposure for background... what metering method is being used?
Nice video. The trick is to have the power setting to a constant power, subject at the same distance ex 10ft., aperture and shutter for the general location fixed, then use a zoom to frame subject. Make your settings work for the most general background. That's my formula.
Absolutely right if you can keep the subject at the same distance. But that's not always the case in every situation.
For run and gun event photography this plan of action doesn't work.
This is exactly what I was looking for! Thanks.
Happy to help!
@@DavidBergmanPhoto I have one question. Do I need to have Flash that has iTTL when I am buying a trigger from the same company that is having both iTTL and manual mode?
In my understanding, I can mount a manual flash over iTTL trigger as on the Camera and also use off camera flash still being able to use iTTL mode of the camera because the trigger is iTTL capable.
One with HSS flash and iTTL capable trigger:
www.amazon.de/dp/B01M1HTK5K/?coliid=I2GJT17E9A3MS1&colid=J7QGI0CTJSFK&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Another manual flash with iTTL capable trigger:
www.amazon.de/dp/B0194S54SQ/?coliid=I3AVTDEDA0B9NU&colid=J7QGI0CTJSFK&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
But with ceiling what flash zoom you use auto or range?
Hope you manage to answer this before Saturday 😬
My camera has an option for object flash focus or blend with the background light focus.
We are going to a Xmas dinner on Saturday, and I'm thinking about bringing my camera and take photos. Standard camera flash, not a pro version. There will be solo and group shots. My flash can go 3 steps up and to the sides.
So you're in TTL (through the lens / auto mode) for this, so the camera & flash are compensating (sending less light on to Brooke) as you bump up the ISO to bring out the back ground..
Hi. I like to learn why the flash zoom works and why different setting on the zoom gives different results. // José
I just checked up for a Magmod last night, but it’s out of stock due to the supply chain problems
I’ve got the Magmod system and I love it! I’ve gotten into the habit of shooting flash in manual, but I think it’s time to do a little ETTL testing again. Thanks for the video David and Adorama.
I use manual for controlled situations where my lights are on stands and are the same distance from the subject for every shot. But when working "run and gun," TTL is the way to go so the flash adjusts as necessary when you move closer or farther away from your subject.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto That makes sense, but your settings for the background (i.e. aperture, SS and ISO) were all "guesstimates"? Also, why do you distinguish aperture from SS and ISO when adjusting for the background exposure: Is it because you have a specific DOF in mind? Otherwise, in theory, if you wanted, couldn't you just open up the aperture to get a brighter background and have the TTL adjust the flash output? BTW, thanks for the clear explanation.
@@normankleinberg5525 I know this is 2 years later but when you shoot anything you should choose your aperture by the look you want your pictures to have - that generally means when you choose your aperture you have a certain depth of field in mind. To drink in more ambient light in the scene you COULD open up your aperture but then you'd be changing your depth of field, ergo the general look of your pictures. What you need to do is slow your shutter speed down a bit and raise your ISO to let more light into your camera.
Looks like you have a very large soft light at the side of your subject, if I’m correct. Doesn’t that mean these pictures are not solely the product of a one on camera light setup?
Should have mentioned the fact that you were using TTL in the beginning of the video, would have made it easier for beginners to understand the whole video 😉
I was about to say lol...
I certainly wouldn't use that honking set-up for run and gun...looks heavy .
Actually it says that at the end...did yoy see it until the end?
I just saw another video that says to not use ETTL! What the heck!
Thats why i was wonder why he didnt even bother to change the power of the flash lol
Please mention the setting also when preview the photo taken
Ambient light - what if it’s fluorescent ( I know many are color balanced … but…)
We used to have to gel the light source
Shooting with our DSLR at horizontal shots the flash light bounce fine but how about when we use our DSLR to vertical shots?
I found the flash won't bounce evenly to the model even using light modifier.
Yeah - sometimes I still shoot horizontal, and then I just crop vertically in post. This way, I don’t get that funky side shadow. If there isn’t a wall in back of the subject, I’ll just shoot with my camera aim the vertical position.
Don't mount your modifier on the broad side of the flash like most of the manufacturers advertise; instead, mount the modifier on the narrow end of your speedlight. That way you can seamlessly switch between vertical and horizontal orientation and your light stays above your lens. Learned that several years ago watching a vid and never mounted modifiers on the broad side again! :)
Would adding a cto and changing white balance help the background color
Dave you are always so good, i learn a lot from you buddy!
Youre likely not still following this post, but does iso not increase the ambient light,
AND the light from the flash, thus making the subject far too bright?
Hi David, thank you for your vídeo! One question if you don't mind... How do you handle White balance when you use flash, on Auto?? Also, if your calling is Too high and no Walls near, would you use that Magmode or something similar or is it better to shoot straight do the person?? Thank you so much!
Thank you so much, just the video I needed!!
in this scenario how do you take a portrait orientation picture at a event. How do you bounce light?
hi i want to ask for something whenever i put flash on my camera its gets darker so sometimes its hard to focus on subject , my camera is m50 and its not good with high iso (over 800) even 1/1 flash power is not enough to bright the place T.T
but when i put the flash on tripod and use transmitter its getting brighter again but as you know in events and birthdays its hard to put the flash on a specific place🥲
my flash is godox tt600
Hi David. When shooting TTL, your camera doesn't know if your flash is straight toward your subject or if you are bouncing the light on the ceiling. Do you have to adjust it with flash compensation? Also, if you focus on your subject and recompense your frame, does the TTL mesure stays the same or changes as the focus point is not the same. Hope my English and questions are clear enough 😬
If you're using TTL the flash will set the power automatically using its pre-flash as a guide, so you don't need to worry about compensation.
@@Skux720 You need to worry about compensation if TTL doesn't give you the exposure you want. In that case you use FEC (Flash Exposure Compensation) to override what TTL is giving you.
Very well explained! Thank you so much!
Why did you choose of raising the ISO instead of lowering the shutter speed?
Play in manual mode settings and turn down the flash power to match the background lighting
That's not how that works buddy, you use the shutter speed to control the ambient light, aperture and iso control the flash power requirements.
@@fishhisy Well, preferably, you want to adjust your flash power from the flash itself.
Great video. Do you use the pop down diffuser on your speedlight when bouncing the light?
Curious why those settings (1/200 at f4 )with one stationary subject for that example ? What about shooting at 1/125 at f 2.8.
It's your choice. You can definitely do that if (1) those are the settings that will give you the ambient light exposure you want, and (2) if f/2.8 gives you the depth of field - and by extension the general look - you want in your shots. Not everyone likes to shoot at wide apertures for all people photography, no matter what you see people teaching.
What flash did you use for this shoot?
All flash setting aside, what WB white balance method are you using? Daylight, shade, auto, flash or custom? thanks!
Thanks for your video. However, I don't see how it's run and gun if you had to preset your exposure (3) settings. I know you can bring in the background by lowering your shutter speed, but doesn't increasing the ISO make everything brighter.
Also, I need to know what metering mode (I assume evaluative) and shutter/aperture priority modes (you said preset the shutter speed). So, with your settings, you cannot move backward or forward. As Gabriel said, what about the power setting on the flash? Is it auto or manual, etc.
He did state at the end best use flash settings on ettl and not manual else you have to keep making changes on the go.
I'm presetting the 3 exposure settings and locking them in to expose for the background. Then letting the flash (on TTL) adjust frame-to-frame for the light on the subject as needed based on my distance to her as it changes. I'm using evaluative metering.
@@deerenz225 It's doable in Manual flash. Just takes a decent amount of practise. In super dark environments TTL is NOT your friend.
Did he use rear sync ? Also does fill-flash or rear sync matter
No. You only need Rear Sync if you're dragging your shutter (using a very slow shutter speed) to get motion blur in your shots while the flash freezes the subjects to keep them sharp. Rear Sync ensures that the motion blur streaks of the subject come from behind them. If you use First Curtain Sync for this kind of shot the motion blur streaks will appear to come from in front of the subject making the whole shot look very odd and unnatural.
Great vid. There are modifiers where you wouldn't have to sacrifice the warmth and you can control whether or not you want to include the frontal light as well as ceiling bounce in your exposure (Flashbenders, the Demb bounce cards, and many others do this. The MagBounce is an either or situation and that's a huge con for me).
Oh, it's VERY important to note that if your event location is extremely dark, TTL will NOT work for you. At that point there is little choice but to use manual flash. And yes, it's doable. Just takes a decent amount of practise.
Could you use a gel to warm it up
Do I have to fear from the celling color or?
That set up looks heavy ? How do you manage to shoot for 4 to 5 hours straight, my back hurts literally from a shoot yesterday for 5 hours
When I use the flash , there are plenty of shadows appearing on all images, some images goes very dark even after firing flash straight. Is there any thing I should do with the flash zoom ?or how can I get a poc without shadow in it. Pls answer
I use the Canon EOS R I pushed my ISO 1250 1600 3200 with a flash. I get a ton of noise??? Can you tell me how camera does not show noise and grain? What am I doing wrong
I'm confused- he went from ISO 100, then way up to ISO 6400 to get the background , but the model was still properly exposed in both shots? I expected her to be fully blown out / overexposed in the 2nd shot with ISO 6400. I;m still a newb to this but it seems like he went from ISO 100 to maybe 300 or 400. Can anyone explain?
How come when I’m shooting vertical one side of my image has a bad shadow?
David you mentioned you use TTL on the flash, but on the camera are you using manual, manual with auto ISO, shutter speed priority, aperture priority, or something else so you don't need to constantly adjust the ambient light/exposure for the background? Thanks
Love your video, but I notice you shoot horizontally. When I try yo go vertical, it seems like I am constantly have to adjust the flash head.
Mount your bounce card/modifier on the narrow end of your flash (not the broad side like gear manufacturers seem to tell everyone). That way when you shoot vertically your light stays above your lens and your vertical shots will be just fine :)
its a good informative video however I found some key information missing. basically how do you meter the flash light with the magbounce on it. do you use TTL or do you control it manually and if it is done manually, how do you do it? the same question also applies to bouncing the light off the ceiling or side walls. hope you can answer them.
I have the same question!
The whole video is him using TTL. TTL takes into account the modifier, bounce, distance and all that stuff. But if you have to do it manually, you would have no choice but to do it on the spot. That's just the nature of manual flash in a run and gun event situation. But the more you practice doing it the easier it becomes and you get to know the ballpark power settings for the distances between you and your subjects.
what was the power of your flash?
Thanks for your help 👍 🙂
This video was so helpful! Thank you very much 🙏😍
I get a dark shadow sometimes when i use this flash, i saw a video where they mentioned how to fix it. Anyone here to help with that?
I am confused. So by just by bumping up the ISO around 4:45 and you get the same exposure on the subject but the background is suddenly exposed properly?! How is that possible? Is that because you're using the flash in TTL mode?
Exactly. TTL is an automatic flash setting. No matter what combination of settings (Aperture, shutter speed, ISO) you set your camera to - within reason, of course - TTL will adjust the flash power in an effort to keep giving you a consistent exposure until you adjust Flash Exposure Compensation to either darken or brighten your flash exposure on your subject.
Can I use this Flash on a Nikon Camera?
Please let us know if you find something better. Thanks for the video.
My old but beloved canon 60D can only tolerate ISO of 1600 before the noise is apparent. Higher end Camera really makes difference in low light venue.
ISO 1600 is more than enough for almost anything you'll ever shoot. I use a 60D as well and haven't run into too much of a problem at all.
How do I do exposure compensation using a manual flash?
Flash in manual; raise or lower the power of the flash to increase or decrease exposure. Flash in TTL; use FEC (Flash Exposure Compensation) to increase or decrease exposure. Flash in TTL will fire at relatively the same power as long as nothing has changed with the on camera settings or the flash distance o subject. FEC tells the flash to increase or decrease the power by the number you've dialed in. In other words it's TTL + or - the number you dialed in.
A couple of further tips: When using a kicker card, I use a gray one, sort a medium to light gray. I don't need as much kick as a white card gives, but it still gives eye catchlights. With the MagBounce, try turning it around backwards. That gives a softer light, but also includes more of the room bounce. I also always use TTL, because if I'm getting too much flash on the subject I can quickly adjust the exposure compensation on the flash. And yes, as others have mentioned, if you see that you need more background exposure, just change the shutter speed. Also, my Canon R5 allows setting TTL (even with third party flashes like my Adorama Flashpoint) to weight the flash and ambient either balanced, weighted more toward the flash, or weighted more toward the ambient.
Thanks very very much and that really helps me David....cheers Ed.C here :)
That was so freaking helpful!!!! thank you!
Hi. What is your camera set to. Manual, shutter priority, etc? Thanks
Manual, i think, i shoot manual in every occasion, i like to control everything
All manual. It's the only way to control exactly how bright or dark you want the background.
Gold! Thank you 😊👍
Lately i usually do a test shot on manual flash at 1/32 or 1/64 power if i am gonna just bounce it. Fix my shutter speed at 1/160 - 1/200 and just control everything with ISO. the further u want that light to hit the higher it goes but rarely during an event do i need to go beyond 4000 (wedding dinner/ reception or indoor engagement)
That's fine if your distance to subject is always about the same. Granted, the distance change isn't as extreme when you're bouncing off the ceiling, but I prefer TTL on the flash to let it adjust if I move closer or further away.
What power do you keep you light at? Since you're going up to 3200ISO, I'm assuming your light power is 1/64? Thanks!
For events this will change as your situation will never be the exact same as someone else's. Nobody can tell you where to keep your flash power at for run and gun events. It can change from shot to shot, especially when using TTL like David was here. So he couldn't tell you what power he used anyhow because TTL doesn't give you that information.
The fstoppers flashdisc is the best modifier ive used for this, eats light but results are great when you cant bounce flash.
Only downside is everyone asks you "what the hell is that thing"
Hahaaaaaa!!!!
Awesome video and commentary 👌
What do you set the White Balance to when using a bounced flash? I find somewhere near 4600k works best.
I usually keep mine at around 5500-5600K as the light from most flashes is about 5500K anyhow.
Flash setting TTL? M? ,Tell me please
TTL, Manual?
Hi, I really appreciate this. Quick question I am doing a sports team photo indoors inside a gym for my very first time. Would the bounce of the light with the magnetic piece bounce to cover 11 kids?
what were your camera settings
Excellent video!!
This helped me a lot, thank you. Can you give some direction on this idea but for the outdoors - what do I do if it gets dark outdoors?
Thank you so much for this
I wish you can show at iso6400, 1/200sec, how the picture look without flash
Thanks for that. Makes a lot of sense.
Just curious. What settings did you use on the flash and also I have used a speedlight on my Nikon camera and when I do, no matter which settings or mode it shows underexposed. Any ideas why that would be? It only happens when using a speedlight. I mostly shoot in Manual, sometimes Aperture. I have tried setting the flash on manual and 1/32 or 1/16 power.
And ceiling talk depends on height correct? I would assume ball rooms might have a high one
Correct. The higher the ceiling the further the light from the flash had to travel the more flash power you'll need.
Great video. I have a grown folks birthday party to shoot. It's usually pretty dark at these events. I like to keep my ISO below 2000 if I can. I got the diffuser that came with my speed light, the built in flash card pop up bounce thing, and a Gary Fong spaceship looking thing. I'm not sure which way to go with so many choices so my plan is to have a look at the space fire some test shots then formulate a plan of action based on the ceiling. I just bought an sb 700 and since it has that pop up bounce card I think it will help with exposure when I'm zooming in from far away. That's why I'm hoping for a lower ceiling so I don't have to use anything but what comes with the speed light and just point at the ceiling, switching back and forth between pop up can and no card. My question is really about my lense choice. I have a 44-70 f2.8 and a 24-120 f4. I'm leaning towards the 24-120 because of the ability to zoom further even tho the 24-70 can let in more light. I'm thinking I don't need the 2.8 if I have a flash and want more things in focus. What say you? I know I said allot, lol.
If it's a choice beterrn the crappy bounce card that comes with speedlights and the Gary Fong Lightsphere, definitely go with the Gary Fong. Much nicer quality of light.