*Support What We Do at The Katz-Moses Store-* bit.ly/KMWstore20 *Get the new CMT 16 Piece set (lowest price on the net with discount code CMT16BIT20) here-* lddy.no/nn5l
I'm a poor, new, one-armed woodworkerish guy... and I'm thrilled that you have XXXL Aprons... I'll be getting one momentarily... I hope it fits. I'm 6'7" 330lbs, with only 1 working arm/leg, but my torso is like a person that is 7'6" and legs like a person 5'6".... I'm excite and hope it fits.
I vote that instead of having an actual intro, PLEASE keep saying an excuse as to why you don't have it each week. I legitimately think that's way better than a normal intro video of random B-roll. I'll trade you a comment for an excuse each week.
1) My dog ate the memory stick. I'm looking for a volunteer to retrieve it after nature runs its course. 2) The latest IOS update formatted the drive and erased it (should have got a PC). 3) I opened an order for a Katz-Moses dovetail guide from a Mr Kim Jong Un, which encrypted the drive. 4) I need to start a Go-Fund-Me account to pay the ransomware (really an extension to number 3).
Nicely done ! As a 75 year old , that was lucky enough to grow up around craftsmanship , truly appreciate an clear demonstration of the things l was taught . High schools tend not to have the shop classes that were available to my generation. Vocational training will always be of value.
To answer your question about twist drills, the biggest thing that you need to know before you drill is your material and your tolerance. For metals, there are situations where a standard twist drill will not give you the hole type that you want such as, sheet metal, and narrow tolerance holes. In sheet metal, regular twist drills will produce an oversize triangular hole. For tight tolerances >.005'' (depending on hole size and rigidity of drilling fixture) it can be better to drill slightly undersize and ream to final dimension. Reamers are better for this because they are designed to remove less material, so they can be made more rigid and will generally have a more refined cutter geometry. However, when drilling in wood there are very few situations where you would need to hold that kind of tolerance, so a standard 118* HSS twist drill will do the job in most every situation
TY for the discount. just picked them up! i had purchased a set from harbor freight years ago. i wasnt sure if i really needed a set of forester bits as a woodworker and i figured that set would get me by pretty cheaply. at the time i had no idea what was going to be involved in a half hand tool and half power tool set up. tldr is i found out very quickly that i would need quality tools and a lot of them!! thank you so much for making that easier. and a special bit of advice to anyone just starting out....always buy quality tools the first time. cheap tools are frustrating and you will almost always have to replace them anyway.
There's actually a 4th variation on these bits which has to do with the inside cutters. And because this particular innovation deals with the problem of heat that you referenced, its worth mentioning. The bit design I'm referring to has straight outside cutters (not saw-tooth) but has the inside cutters segmented with small gaps. These are found on the Colt Maxicut Forster bits. It sounds like a minor change, but the difference is heat build up is astounding. The Colt's are by far the best Forstner bits I have used.
Thanks for the ad video on the CMT forstner bits. I bought three single blades and a dado stack after the CMT blade video you did and could not be happier with them. I just bought the kit and cannot wait to use them.
Man, I just love it how as a young wood worker I am saving so much money on premium tools thanks to you. Legit, you have already saved me a few hundred dollars with in the time I've been watching your videos. Thank you so much and God bless you.
Forstner bits...my #1 woodworking friend/discovery in past 4 years. I have found that anything under about 12--14 mm diameter needs frequent lifting out and clearing otherwise the wood powder binds and jams the bit..great fun working out a way to extract it...... btw..the mediaeval torture thing..( it must have a real name)... apart from being lethal if not tightened up and fingers kept well clear....I use it to cut out wheels in 10--15mm plywood....going 2/3 way through and turning over for reasonable clean cuts. ......from NZ
i used high speed drills on my wood projects only because I did not know any better, yes they tend to wander too much to make good clean holes. I used paddle bits and I knew about forstner bits but I didn't know about the small ones since the only ones i have ever seen was used by plumbers during rough in. I now have a set of forstner bits and a set of brad point bits for holes too small for forstner bits. I have a set of hole saw bits too but mostly use them for construction applications and not fine woodworking.
Another great video. On a side not my new JKM shop apron arrived yesterday. It is a tank. So much so my kids are already debating who gets it when I die. I am only in my early 40's.
Ok Jonathan, I just got my scraper and forsner bit orders in. I have bin watched a bunch of your videos this past week and just wanted to say thanks for being the generous person you are. Thanks for working all the deals with the vendors so we are able to save a little. Over the past couple of days I’ve ordered a bunch of new stuff to get our new woodworking shop opened up. We will be BrownElk Woodworks in Smithfield, Virginia. I’m super excited to get your apron I ordered. It will be my first one. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks and keep doing what you are doing! (Vlad kind of stuff). You’re awesome! 🇺🇸💪🏼
Been a woodworker as a hobby for 3 years, and bought some very cheap forstner bits from Amazon, they're not very good, they actually suck, been waiting to find some good bits for a reasonable price and I just couldn't say no. If it comes from JKM it must be good so bit the bullet and ordered mine. Can't wait to try them out. Thanks man! love your channel!
Thanks for the video. One important thing you did not mention about forstener bits and keeping heat to a minimum is having the correct peripheral speed for the most efficient cutting and least heat buildup.. I have seen very expensive bits ruined by inexperienced users not adjusting the drill press to a speed that is slow enough to suit the bit diameter and in a set like yours the smallest bits may cut best at 700- 800 RPM where as the the big 2" bit may need to be run at speeds as low as 120 rpm.. It can be a hassle changing the speed on the drill press for a couple of holes but it will extend the life of your expensive tools and prevent wood burning. All the best.
My saw blade comes next week. If it cuts as good as it did for you I'll pick up a set of these & tell the Mrs I lost my small irwin set🤫 (pretty happy with them so far but only has a few bits in the set).
Drill bits drill a slightly triangular hole. which is why when you’re machining metal and want a round shaft to go in it, you use a reemer to round it out
No, drill bits don't drill round holes there is always some eccentricity. There is an old engineering series of videos from MIT by Erik Vaaler where he describes why there is no machine capable of drilling a truly circular hole, but I don't think it should worry us woodworkers - hell the stuff moves all over the place as soon as you go near it!
Regular drill bits don't cut round holes in metal, either. They also usually cut a few thousandths of an inch oversize, which they share with Forstner bits. When working in wood, the sizes are usually close enough. When you need a really round, precise-diameter hole (I'm talking less than .001" tolerance), you drill slightly under-sized and follow with the appropriate reamer. Best accuracy, for position, size, and roundness is a boring head.
I own them, CMT is great!!! And Italian!!! I can bet my head the intro will never be done! And you’ll never make it in “two minutes”... but I like it the way it is!
Jonathan as usual great topic, I been watching some of your previous videos like joint of the week! Any way of doing some more like that, maybe in the future.
Hey thanks for the realistic way you present your tutorials. it makes it so much easier for me being a relatively new comer to fine woodworking. Great store too.
After your CMT saw blade review, I screwed up the blade that was on my blade thanks to a hidden nail... Ended up trying the CMT 50 Tooth 1FTG+4ATB and couldn't be happier
Normal twist drills make slightly triangular holes because the bit wants to dance around in the hole. Brad point bits are much better because the center point registers the bit and keeps it centered. I have never seen this be an issue in woodworking, but have seen it cause issues in tool and die making where precision is essential.
This video was exactly what I was looking for. Had never seen these bits before and wanted to see them perform. Great production value and very informative, thank you!
Thanks for this JKM! I just ordered a set. They will be a welcome replacement for the Harbor Freight set I currently have. The HF bits are absolute garbage. . . can't even drill half way through a pine 2x4. BTW, I also cast my vote for excuses in place of intros. It would be cool to see just how creative you can get.
Great video, Jonathan! Thanks for all the tips! 😊 I honestly like spade bits more, but depending on the work you have no option but to use a forstner bit. 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great stuff. I’m guilty of being one of the ones selling out CMT saw blades 10” full kerf and sweeeeet dado stack. Already have Forster set so holding onto my cash today. Keep up the great work and blow those 2 minute boundaries as the material requires.
Drill bits often cut triangular holes. By drilling a smaller diameter first and finishing with a bigger drill sometimes solves this issue. HSS drills are flexible compared to carbide drills that are not flexible and tend to shatter alot quicker if your part isn't fixtured.
I have often drilled "triangular" holes in thinner metal when drilling by hand or in a drill press when the material isn't clamped down. I think there is relative movement between the bit and material that causes it but I have not figured out why it's triangular. Don't know about wood.
I just drilled three holes into a sheetmetal fan cage yesterday because the motor mount screw had teared out. After drilling the holes I noticed that the holes were pentagon shaped and I was mildly surprised. Doesn't matter though I just hammered in three threaded insert rivits and called it done 😎👍🏻
I think that’s where the centre of he drill isn’t securely located (say your pilot hole is too big) and so it essentially just bounces around. Maybe...
I was schooled that after drilling through metal one should use a reamer to accurately size and make the drilled hole round - when required for a bearing or alignment use. The theory was that each flute of the drill would grab intermittently so that the drill would pivot on the end of the flute rather than pivot on the point of the drill. In this manner the drill would tend to transcribe a shape based on the number of flutes + 1 rather than being perfectly round. The more slender the drill the greater the affect.
If, as the CMT website says, these bits are normal tool steel, they will be very vulnerable to damage from the inevitable heat build-up that comes with the wider (>1/2") diameter bits. You buy a relatively inexpensive set like these and end up replacing them one at a time. You can learn this lesson, or skip it by paying the price (about 2x more) to get Forstner bits made of high speed steel.
Regular 2 fluted drill bits have a tendency to not always provide a perfectly reamed diameter hole. An option would be a core drill. Four flutes precision ground! I have always been pretty successful using those!
I would encourage you to look up the patent that Benjamin Forstner filed. It gives claims, one of which was a bit that would follow it's own hole even if you were drilling a partial-diameter hole--and stay straight. Before that there were augers that have 1 tip per flute scoring the wood ahead of the planing cut that removes the majority of the material. he added a gimlet point instead of the screw point used on augers as well. As a toolmaker, I have used about every variation of these bits manufactured today, and whenever you vary from his original design of a "knife" like ring scoring the material in front of the planing edge, you lose on the feature of being able to drill a partial hole, and/or the feature of drilling a long straight hold (such as in the manufacture of buttstocks for rifles, which is the reason he came up with the design in the first place). Any variation such as mulit-spur bits, wavy rims, even tapered rims to reduce heat or increase manufacturability, compromise the features of the patent and should find their own name instead of naming them after a man who invented something different than what they are making. I also take exception to your statement that the spurs and the planing edges are the same length. They are not. Forstner bits have the knife edge that scores the wood about .006" to .010" ahead of the planing blades to prevent tear-out that occurs when they are not that way. These bits create a lot of heat both from the slicing of the knife edge rim and the outside diameter being a straight wall that is essentially rubbing the holes sides while cutting. Therefore they have to be run slower than a fluted drill bit. Then heat is much less a problem. Your video of them running looks way too fast and I would bet you get a lot of heat that way. I didn't write this to attack you or your video, I just want to point out some important things about these bits and their use.
I just picked up a set of fich wave cutters absolutely a dream to mill holes with have not had and thing as good as these they were not cheap and I got the cheap ones lol I know pay once cry once so now I still have to save for the 400 dollar set I have heard bad things about the saw tooth ones compared to the wave so I spent the time and money to get the wave have you tried any others but the saw tooth
I just bought a $200 14pc forstener bit set from LeeValley I’m SO disappointed with. They had 3-4 cheaper sets but I opted for the best. The scoring blades are so proud of the cutting blades they take to much pressure to use by hand. They’re drill press only.
Awesome - be good with these slo-mo drill shots to follow on from your amazing sandpaper testing vid, and use clear plastic to drill down into lens (though not literally) to really see how it all works. Can't wait for your watch videos to drop!
Wonderful demonstration, can't wait to have a drill press to put through its paces. Blown away by the quality and value of CMT products lately too! (Especially thanks to you.) Hope to be half as good as you someday, woodworking and business wise ✌️
Definitely when I'm shooting a screw, and plugging it, I think of forstner bits. You keep the great content train rolling. I think the best part for everyone is the great deals vendors are throwing our way!
@@katzmosestools Ordered it yesterday afternoon and it was processed quick work a notification of the tracking # by evening. Great customer service like you!
Oh btw, do ya have a link in one of your videos to the spring loaded center punch and CA glue? I need to order both of those as well and wanna help out your site.
A hole that is not round? 1. Improperly sharpened drill bit as in the point is off center or one edge is ground at a slightly different angle than the other. 2. Bent drill bit. 3. Loose or wobbly chuck. But an old helpful hint taught to me by a machinist is to drill your hole with the next size smaller drill bit then switch to the one you want and use it to chase out the hole.
I'm never going to get around to buying the dovetail jig if I keep blowing my $$$ on your latest slow-mo product stans! Awesome job as usual, and yeah - skip the intro. It just takes time from the awesome!
Forstner bits are the reason I bought a fire extinguisher. The first time I used it smoke was pouring out of the hole. Hadn’t learned you had to pulse that bit yet.
Jonathan Katz-Moses I had purchased a set of Irwin Forstner bits but have been hesitant to use them for 2 reasons, well questions really. 1. I noticed a considerable amount of "wobble" on my drill press and the resulting hole was far from round. Is that something I can fix by lowering the speed of the drill? Which kind of leads into 2. Should I be using a low speed for forstner bits? PS the apron is awesome will be sending the photos to your social media as requested.
I'm a super novice woodwork enthusiast. How novice you ask? Well my "workshop" has the most basic work bench (left from my grandpa who was a metal worker) with a a metal worker's wise. As far as tools go I'm a proud owner of battery powered drill, some twist drill bits and a set of chisels (probably dull). Of course there are screwdrivers, hammers and wrenches... And given that my shop is super small, a table saw is out of the question, as is the planer. Now I'm eyeing a compound miter saw so I can for the first time in my life cut a piece of wood straight. Oh yes, I have no orbital or track sanders or a router.. These will come with time since they don't take up too much space.. But what scares me the most is the fact that I have to learn from tutorials and YT videos and there's really not a lot of content for a novice like me. I would rather have somebody by my side and teach me the basics but it is what it is... Anyway, I have a lot of money and time to spend to reach a level where I could create stuff I would be pleased with.. The first project I'm gonna start working on soon is the basic mount for drills and angle grinders, together with a place for various drill bits.. The next project (that's still in my mind and far away from becoming a real thing) would be some kind of a stand or a holder for my knife collection.. My God, how will that turn out I'm scared to think off..
Love your videos, learn so much! Can't thank you enough! 2 questions.. 1- when will the stop blocks be back in the store? Went to order last nite with a saw..2- I'm making an outdoor stand to hold a planter box.. using white oak already cut to 36*2*3/4. Problem is attaching together screws or kreg screws just keep splitting the wood. The wood is super dry and oak is pretty hard. Any suggestions for joining together? Other than dovetails, no saw yet.
They're available in the store. Just on presale. Should be in stock in a week or so but you can purchase now which I highly suggest. We're getting them in phases and the first phase is almost all spoken for. I would predrill with a bigger drill bit. Cheers
I just picked up a set!!. Thank you! Question, have you done or can do a video of which bits to use for flattening slabs? ✌🏼Thank you again and love your channel man.
Jonathan, do you know what kind of steel the CMT bits are made from? Their web site says "Super strength SP Steel", but I can't find any info online on what that actually means. The Wikipedia page on "Tool Steel" doesn't say anything about it. Is it a high speed steel, maybe? (If it is, they should brag about it -- HSS is great when heat is an issue.) Can you get any more info on the specs?
Thanks for another great video. Can you do a video sometime explaining drill speeds? Why use a slow verses a faster drilling speed? Does it have something to do with wood species? Thanks again.
Total guess based solely on my RUclips education... Bigger the bit, the slower you go because the outside edge of the bit would be going the same speed
Anyone answer please. Let's say I'm making a table and I want some some depressions for glasses or beer bottles. Is there an easier way than using an forstner bit and filling the guide hole with glue and saw dust or using a router or CNC? I dont own a CNC and I suck at hand routering?
Hand sharpen brand new drills that have never been sharpened by eye. Can actually do a very good accurate job if you do it often enough. When the box of drills has 1/8 that are bran new you get good at it. The center edge is perpendicular to the axis. It is where the two edges that are sharpened meet. It is not a centering feature which is why drills wander without a center punch diameter larger then this flat. You can see the drill wiggle the flat meeting point of the two edges is not centered on the drill. Your cutting at two edges 180 degrees apart so if the angle of the cutting edges are not the same but they are centered the drill will still wiggle since the force on one edge is different then the other. Wood adds another dimension since wood has grain. The force need to cut with an edge of a plane or chisel changes with the relationship with the grain. A drill has a cutting edge and experiences the same change grain relationship. The more force downward result in greater twist forces from the two cutting edges and if uneven will bend the drill. So to cut a round hole go slow until the wood helps resist bending of the drill.
Drill bits don't make perfectly round holes. The only time you would really notice is if you're a machinist and you're measuring to the thousandth. Though I have seen some crappy drill presses make some very not round holes.
Jonathan Katz-Moses love it. Automatic but still stands up to drill press vibrations. Hobby horticulturist, woodworker, bourbon collector over here. Oh and subscriber!
*Support What We Do at The Katz-Moses Store-* bit.ly/KMWstore20
*Get the new CMT 16 Piece set (lowest price on the net with discount code CMT16BIT20) here-* lddy.no/nn5l
I'm a poor, new, one-armed woodworkerish guy... and I'm thrilled that you have XXXL Aprons... I'll be getting one momentarily... I hope it fits. I'm 6'7" 330lbs, with only 1 working arm/leg, but my torso is like a person that is 7'6" and legs like a person 5'6".... I'm excite and hope it fits.
CMT 16 Piece set page not found.. it's goneskies.
I vote that instead of having an actual intro, PLEASE keep saying an excuse as to why you don't have it each week. I legitimately think that's way better than a normal intro video of random B-roll. I'll trade you a comment for an excuse each week.
drummaking3 I loved “my daughter decided to use it for drink storage” 🤔
1) My dog ate the memory stick. I'm looking for a volunteer to retrieve it after nature runs its course.
2) The latest IOS update formatted the drive and erased it (should have got a PC).
3) I opened an order for a Katz-Moses dovetail guide from a Mr Kim Jong Un, which encrypted the drive.
4) I need to start a Go-Fund-Me account to pay the ransomware (really an extension to number 3).
Man, I love 10 minute Tuesday!
hahaha yes!
More than 2 minutes, but definitely not too many minutes 😃
Nicely done ! As a 75 year old , that was lucky enough to grow up around craftsmanship , truly appreciate an clear demonstration of the things l was taught . High schools tend not to have the shop classes that were available to my generation. Vocational training will always be of value.
To answer your question about twist drills, the biggest thing that you need to know before you drill is your material and your tolerance. For metals, there are situations where a standard twist drill will not give you the hole type that you want such as, sheet metal, and narrow tolerance holes. In sheet metal, regular twist drills will produce an oversize triangular hole. For tight tolerances >.005'' (depending on hole size and rigidity of drilling fixture) it can be better to drill slightly undersize and ream to final dimension. Reamers are better for this because they are designed to remove less material, so they can be made more rigid and will generally have a more refined cutter geometry. However, when drilling in wood there are very few situations where you would need to hold that kind of tolerance, so a standard 118* HSS twist drill will do the job in most every situation
TY for the discount. just picked them up! i had purchased a set from harbor freight years ago. i wasnt sure if i really needed a set of forester bits as a woodworker and i figured that set would get me by pretty cheaply. at the time i had no idea what was going to be involved in a half hand tool and half power tool set up. tldr is i found out very quickly that i would need quality tools and a lot of them!! thank you so much for making that easier. and a special bit of advice to anyone just starting out....always buy quality tools the first time. cheap tools are frustrating and you will almost always have to replace them anyway.
There's actually a 4th variation on these bits which has to do with the inside cutters. And because this particular innovation deals with the problem of heat that you referenced, its worth mentioning. The bit design I'm referring to has straight outside cutters (not saw-tooth) but has the inside cutters segmented with small gaps. These are found on the Colt Maxicut Forster bits. It sounds like a minor change, but the difference is heat build up is astounding. The Colt's are by far the best Forstner bits I have used.
It seems these are no longer available as no one has them in stock
I can't be the only one eagerly awaiting next week's creative excuse for the lack of intro. 😂😂
🤣🤣
Thanks for the ad video on the CMT forstner bits. I bought three single blades and a dado stack after the CMT blade video you did and could not be happier with them. I just bought the kit and cannot wait to use them.
Man, I just love it how as a young wood worker I am saving so much money on premium tools thanks to you. Legit, you have already saved me a few hundred dollars with in the time I've been watching your videos. Thank you so much and God bless you.
Forstner bits...my #1 woodworking friend/discovery in past 4 years. I have found that anything under about 12--14 mm diameter needs frequent lifting out and clearing otherwise the wood powder binds and jams the bit..great fun working out a way to extract it......
btw..the mediaeval torture thing..( it must have a real name)... apart from being lethal if not tightened up and fingers kept well clear....I use it to cut out wheels in 10--15mm plywood....going 2/3 way through and turning over for reasonable clean cuts.
......from NZ
You're one hell of a salesman, Jon. Every time I watch your videos, I end up buying something. Keep the deals coming brother!
i used high speed drills on my wood projects only because I did not know any better, yes they tend to wander too much to make good clean holes. I used paddle bits and I knew about forstner bits but I didn't know about the small ones since the only ones i have ever seen was used by plumbers during rough in. I now have a set of forstner bits and a set of brad point bits for holes too small for forstner bits. I have a set of hole saw bits too but mostly use them for construction applications and not fine woodworking.
Another great video.
On a side not my new JKM shop apron arrived yesterday. It is a tank. So much so my kids are already debating who gets it when I die. I am only in my early 40's.
been using cmt router bits and have had great results
Ok Jonathan, I just got my scraper and forsner bit orders in. I have bin watched a bunch of your videos this past week and just wanted to say thanks for being the generous person you are. Thanks for working all the deals with the vendors so we are able to save a little. Over the past couple of days I’ve ordered a bunch of new stuff to get our new woodworking shop opened up. We will be BrownElk Woodworks in Smithfield, Virginia. I’m super excited to get your apron I ordered. It will be my first one. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks and keep doing what you are doing! (Vlad kind of stuff). You’re awesome! 🇺🇸💪🏼
Been a woodworker as a hobby for 3 years, and bought some very cheap forstner bits from Amazon, they're not very good, they actually suck, been waiting to find some good bits for a reasonable price and I just couldn't say no. If it comes from JKM it must be good so bit the bullet and ordered mine. Can't wait to try them out. Thanks man! love your channel!
I am mesmerized by the slow motion clips. Great explanation and demo.
Thanks for the video. One important thing you did not mention about forstener bits and keeping heat to a minimum is having the correct peripheral speed for the most efficient cutting and least heat buildup.. I have seen very expensive bits ruined by inexperienced users not adjusting the drill press to a speed that is slow enough to suit the bit diameter and in a set like yours the smallest bits may cut best at 700- 800 RPM where as the the big 2" bit may need to be run at speeds as low as 120 rpm.. It can be a hassle changing the speed on the drill press for a couple of holes but it will extend the life of your expensive tools and prevent wood burning. All the best.
I just love that slow mo stuff.
My saw blade comes next week. If it cuts as good as it did for you I'll pick up a set of these & tell the Mrs I lost my small irwin set🤫 (pretty happy with them so far but only has a few bits in the set).
Thanks for all of these slow motion series to explain what is actually happening. Love this content!
Now I know how to get the best results from a flat bottom- didn’t know I needed to know this...
Great 2(ish) Tuesday
Drill bits drill a slightly triangular hole. which is why when you’re machining metal and want a round shaft to go in it, you use a reemer to round it out
No, drill bits don't drill round holes there is always some eccentricity. There is an old engineering series of videos from MIT by Erik Vaaler where he describes why there is no machine capable of drilling a truly circular hole, but I don't think it should worry us woodworkers - hell the stuff moves all over the place as soon as you go near it!
Just go look at wood after work out and it bends because of the changed moisture content in the air 😂
solid carbide Split point drills will make round holes if properly chucked in a collet and the workpiece is held securely.
Regular drill bits don't cut round holes in metal, either. They also usually cut a few thousandths of an inch oversize, which they share with Forstner bits. When working in wood, the sizes are usually close enough.
When you need a really round, precise-diameter hole (I'm talking less than .001" tolerance), you drill slightly under-sized and follow with the appropriate reamer. Best accuracy, for position, size, and roundness is a boring head.
I wish you would have covered off on ideal drill press speeds/rpm for the forstner bits but man, love your videos, thank you for the knowledge.
Great tips! Of course, you could replace most of them with just one: use carbide tipped forstner bits.
Buen vídeo y juego de brocas, saludos desde México.
I own them, CMT is great!!! And Italian!!! I can bet my head the intro will never be done! And you’ll never make it in “two minutes”... but I like it the way it is!
Absolutely loving the intros!!!! The excuses are hilarious! 😂
Jonathan as usual great topic, I been watching some of your previous videos like joint of the week! Any way of doing some more like that, maybe in the future.
Wow, I NEVER do this, but this time I absolutely jumped on those discounted bits! I've been using cheap forstners for way too long.
Can't wait, I got my email that my apron shipped today! Will let you know what I think after I have used it a little.
Hey thanks for the realistic way you present your tutorials. it makes it so much easier for me being a relatively new comer to fine woodworking. Great store too.
After your CMT saw blade review, I screwed up the blade that was on my blade thanks to a hidden nail... Ended up trying the CMT 50 Tooth 1FTG+4ATB and couldn't be happier
Normal twist drills make slightly triangular holes because the bit wants to dance around in the hole. Brad point bits are much better because the center point registers the bit and keeps it centered. I have never seen this be an issue in woodworking, but have seen it cause issues in tool and die making where precision is essential.
Great info thank you
"Slightly"? You haven't seen *my* holes.😆
This is why machinists use reamers or boring heads to get round holes... or end mills if we have access to a CNC mill. ;)
This video was exactly what I was looking for. Had never seen these bits before and wanted to see them perform. Great production value and very informative, thank you!
Picked up the bits through your link and very happy with them. Gave my hf ones away
My water bed popped and my intro got washed away. I really dig the slow mo.
🎶 Flat bottom holes you make the wood working world go ‘round. 🎶
Thanks for this JKM! I just ordered a set. They will be a welcome replacement for the Harbor Freight set I currently have. The HF bits are absolute garbage. . . can't even drill half way through a pine 2x4. BTW, I also cast my vote for excuses in place of intros. It would be cool to see just how creative you can get.
Great video, Jonathan! Thanks for all the tips! 😊
I honestly like spade bits more, but depending on the work you have no option but to use a forstner bit. 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great stuff. I’m guilty of being one of the ones selling out CMT saw blades 10” full kerf and sweeeeet dado stack. Already have Forster set so holding onto my cash today. Keep up the great work and blow those 2 minute boundaries as the material requires.
Drill bits often cut triangular holes. By drilling a smaller diameter first and finishing with a bigger drill sometimes solves this issue. HSS drills are flexible compared to carbide drills that are not flexible and tend to shatter alot quicker if your part isn't fixtured.
I have often drilled "triangular" holes in thinner metal when drilling by hand or in a drill press when the material isn't clamped down. I think there is relative movement between the bit and material that causes it but I have not figured out why it's triangular.
Don't know about wood.
I just drilled three holes into a sheetmetal fan cage yesterday because the motor mount screw had teared out. After drilling the holes I noticed that the holes were pentagon shaped and I was mildly surprised. Doesn't matter though I just hammered in three threaded insert rivits and called it done 😎👍🏻
I think that’s where the centre of he drill isn’t securely located (say your pilot hole is too big) and so it essentially just bounces around. Maybe...
@@thenationdecides7404 well exactly cause im essentially drilling out the old screw holes to fit in the special threaded rivits
I was schooled that after drilling through metal one should use a reamer to accurately size and make the drilled hole round - when required for a bearing or alignment use. The theory was that each flute of the drill would grab intermittently so that the drill would pivot on the end of the flute rather than pivot on the point of the drill. In this manner the drill would tend to transcribe a shape based on the number of flutes + 1 rather than being perfectly round. The more slender the drill the greater the affect.
@@gordonmckenzie2982 that's a nice explanation as to why this occurs. Luckily for me the operation didn't have to be perfect :D
If, as the CMT website says, these bits are normal tool steel, they will be very vulnerable to damage from the inevitable heat build-up that comes with the wider (>1/2") diameter bits. You buy a relatively inexpensive set like these and end up replacing them one at a time. You can learn this lesson, or skip it by paying the price (about 2x more) to get Forstner bits made of high speed steel.
Regular 2 fluted drill bits have a tendency to not always provide a perfectly reamed diameter hole. An option would be a core drill. Four flutes precision ground! I have always been pretty successful using those!
Just a thought would you consider doing a video on sharpening these bits? Many of us are in the harbor freight class of woodworkers
I would encourage you to look up the patent that Benjamin Forstner filed. It gives claims, one of which was a bit that would follow it's own hole even if you were drilling a partial-diameter hole--and stay straight. Before that there were augers that have 1 tip per flute scoring the wood ahead of the planing cut that removes the majority of the material. he added a gimlet point instead of the screw point used on augers as well.
As a toolmaker, I have used about every variation of these bits manufactured today, and whenever you vary from his original design of a "knife"
like ring scoring the material in front of the planing edge, you lose on the feature of being able to drill a partial hole, and/or the feature of drilling a long straight hold (such as in the manufacture of buttstocks for rifles, which is the reason he came up with the design in the first place).
Any variation such as mulit-spur bits, wavy rims, even tapered rims to reduce heat or increase manufacturability, compromise the features of the patent and should find their own name instead of naming them after a man who invented something different than what they are making.
I also take exception to your statement that the spurs and the planing edges are the same length. They are not. Forstner bits have the knife edge that scores the wood about .006" to .010" ahead of the planing blades to prevent tear-out that occurs when they are not that way.
These bits create a lot of heat both from the slicing of the knife edge rim and the outside diameter being a straight wall that is essentially rubbing the holes sides while cutting. Therefore they have to be run slower than a fluted drill bit. Then heat is much less a problem. Your video of them running looks way too fast and I would bet you get a lot of heat that way.
I didn't write this to attack you or your video, I just want to point out some important things about these bits and their use.
I do not usually buy in such situations, but I need a new set, and this is a great deal. Thanks for your videos and thanks for the discount code.
Got mine already and at a sweet price!
I just picked up a set of fich wave cutters absolutely a dream to mill holes with have not had and thing as good as these they were not cheap and I got the cheap ones lol I know pay once cry once so now I still have to save for the 400 dollar set I have heard bad things about the saw tooth ones compared to the wave so I spent the time and money to get the wave have you tried any others but the saw tooth
I just bought a $200 14pc forstener bit set from LeeValley I’m SO disappointed with. They had 3-4 cheaper sets but I opted for the best. The scoring blades are so proud of the cutting blades they take to much pressure to use by hand. They’re drill press only.
Awesome - be good with these slo-mo drill shots to follow on from your amazing sandpaper testing vid, and use clear plastic to drill down into lens (though not literally) to really see how it all works. Can't wait for your watch videos to drop!
Thank you my friend!
Thank you my friend!
Great tool tips and I do have a few of those and I will be replacing them all with that brand.
The CMT bits are sold out in a day. They were an excellent buy, so let us know when they restock please.
Back in stock
Just got my apron!! She’s a beaut Clark
Excellent video. Just ordered a set.
Wonderful demonstration, can't wait to have a drill press to put through its paces. Blown away by the quality and value of CMT products lately too! (Especially thanks to you.) Hope to be half as good as you someday, woodworking and business wise ✌️
Definitely when I'm shooting a screw, and plugging it, I think of forstner bits. You keep the great content train rolling. I think the best part for everyone is the great deals vendors are throwing our way!
Yeah, I always am trying to get you guys the screaming deals. thank you my friend
@@katzmosestools Ordered it yesterday afternoon and it was processed quick work a notification of the tracking # by evening. Great customer service like you!
Fantastic info and explanation
Thank you Sir.🎉
received my apron last night!! SO COOL!!! thx
Jealous! Mine hasn’t showed up yet. Looking forward to it though.
@@MrPotato2 it's awesome Dude!!
Yep, definitely jealous...still waiting on mine. Did you get a shipment notification or did it just show up?
@@victorpricejr Hi Victor - received a notification day before. U'll be really happy
Seven minute Saturday!
Great video. Just found you today... and... well.... it feels like home.
Oh btw, do ya have a link in one of your videos to the spring loaded center punch and CA glue? I need to order both of those as well and wanna help out your site.
Is a new offering in the future? I missed this great deal. Rats!
Please pass along the desire for more metric tools.
The CMT Forstner bit set for instance
Another use for Forstner bits “cube in a cube”. Gonna have to upgrade my crappy bits! Stay with the no intro!
Hi Sir. Why every time I got it stuck inside hole while drilling. Keep stop the cutter all the time? Does my drill press weak or? Thank you
Any guide on RPMs for different sizes. Too high a speed will generate heat.
A hole that is not round? 1. Improperly sharpened drill bit as in the point is off center or one edge is ground at a slightly different angle than the other. 2. Bent drill bit. 3. Loose or wobbly chuck. But an old helpful hint taught to me by a machinist is to drill your hole with the next size smaller drill bit then switch to the one you want and use it to chase out the hole.
I'm never going to get around to buying the dovetail jig if I keep blowing my $$$ on your latest slow-mo product stans! Awesome job as usual, and yeah - skip the intro. It just takes time from the awesome!
Do any of the styles of forstner bits avoid chipping better than others?
Forstner bits are the reason I bought a fire extinguisher. The first time I used it smoke was pouring out of the hole. Hadn’t learned you had to pulse that bit yet.
Um... Guilty
Scott Roy it’s nice to know I’m not alone.
@@johnleonard5857 Not alone by a long shot.
Love the video! I'm curious about the watch you're wearing in the video. Is that a Timex or Seiko?
Jonathan Katz-Moses I had purchased a set of Irwin Forstner bits but have been hesitant to use them for 2 reasons, well questions really. 1. I noticed a considerable amount of "wobble" on my drill press and the resulting hole was far from round. Is that something I can fix by lowering the speed of the drill? Which kind of leads into 2. Should I be using a low speed for forstner bits? PS the apron is awesome will be sending the photos to your social media as requested.
Sounds like you need to tune up your drill press or get a new set of bits. Yeah slow speed is good for forstner bits. Cheers bud!
I'm a super novice woodwork enthusiast. How novice you ask? Well my "workshop" has the most basic work bench (left from my grandpa who was a metal worker) with a a metal worker's wise. As far as tools go I'm a proud owner of battery powered drill, some twist drill bits and a set of chisels (probably dull). Of course there are screwdrivers, hammers and wrenches... And given that my shop is super small, a table saw is out of the question, as is the planer. Now I'm eyeing a compound miter saw so I can for the first time in my life cut a piece of wood straight. Oh yes, I have no orbital or track sanders or a router.. These will come with time since they don't take up too much space.. But what scares me the most is the fact that I have to learn from tutorials and YT videos and there's really not a lot of content for a novice like me. I would rather have somebody by my side and teach me the basics but it is what it is...
Anyway, I have a lot of money and time to spend to reach a level where I could create stuff I would be pleased with.. The first project I'm gonna start working on soon is the basic mount for drills and angle grinders, together with a place for various drill bits.. The next project (that's still in my mind and far away from becoming a real thing) would be some kind of a stand or a holder for my knife collection.. My God, how will that turn out I'm scared to think off..
Love your videos, learn so much! Can't thank you enough! 2 questions.. 1- when will the stop blocks be back in the store? Went to order last nite with a saw..2- I'm making an outdoor stand to hold a planter box.. using white oak already cut to 36*2*3/4. Problem is attaching together screws or kreg screws just keep splitting the wood. The wood is super dry and oak is pretty hard. Any suggestions for joining together? Other than dovetails, no saw yet.
They're available in the store. Just on presale. Should be in stock in a week or so but you can purchase now which I highly suggest. We're getting them in phases and the first phase is almost all spoken for. I would predrill with a bigger drill bit. Cheers
Thanks for the tip!!.. I'll try it tonite with some stainless steel screws, it's going outside.. and I'll order the stop block and saw tonite also.
I just picked up a set!!. Thank you! Question, have you done or can do a video of which bits to use for flattening slabs? ✌🏼Thank you again and love your channel man.
Jonathan, do you know what kind of steel the CMT bits are made from? Their web site says "Super strength SP Steel", but I can't find any info online on what that actually means. The Wikipedia page on "Tool Steel" doesn't say anything about it. Is it a high speed steel, maybe? (If it is, they should brag about it -- HSS is great when heat is an issue.) Can you get any more info on the specs?
What speed do you use to drill holes with those my drill press just stops no matter how slow I go
What’s the best way to get rid of the spur mark if you’re not going all the way through a piece?
yo someone taking some inspiration from Peter McKinnon over here.. love it!!!
Just come across you. What an awesome channel! Love your stuff
Thanks Paul!
Hopefully the wife won’t be home when they arrive in the mail. Great deal on the bits.
Thanks for another great video. Can you do a video sometime explaining drill speeds? Why use a slow verses a faster drilling speed? Does it have something to do with wood species? Thanks again.
Great idea
Total guess based solely on my RUclips education... Bigger the bit, the slower you go because the outside edge of the bit would be going the same speed
@@scottroy6195 That's the gist.
You got anything on pock-it holes? Iam considering buying a jij, but I don't know anything about them
Anyone answer please. Let's say I'm making a table and I want some some depressions for glasses or beer bottles. Is there an easier way than using an forstner bit and filling the guide hole with glue and saw dust or using a router or CNC? I dont own a CNC and I suck at hand routering?
Now do wood owl ultra smooth auger bits!
Hand sharpen brand new drills that have never been sharpened by eye. Can actually do a very good accurate job if you do it often enough. When the box of drills has 1/8 that are bran new you get good at it. The center edge is perpendicular to the axis. It is where the two edges that are sharpened meet. It is not a centering feature which is why drills wander without a center punch diameter larger then this flat. You can see the drill wiggle the flat meeting point of the two edges is not centered on the drill. Your cutting at two edges 180 degrees apart so if the angle of the cutting edges are not the same but they are centered the drill will still wiggle since the force on one edge is different then the other. Wood adds another dimension since wood has grain. The force need to cut with an edge of a plane or chisel changes with the relationship with the grain. A drill has a cutting edge and experiences the same change grain relationship. The more force downward result in greater twist forces from the two cutting edges and if uneven will bend the drill. So to cut a round hole go slow until the wood helps resist bending of the drill.
I just bought those forstner bits. Now all I need is an inexpensive drill press.
Great stuff! Thanks!
Drill bits don't make perfectly round holes. The only time you would really notice is if you're a machinist and you're measuring to the thousandth. Though I have seen some crappy drill presses make some very not round holes.
Gotta love the new tool (slo-mo camera)! Question: Can you use Forstner bits with a hand drill?
Yes but a drill press is way better
If you do Rich, slow it down (as others have mentioned).
Love it !!
well said!
When will the bits be in stock?
Next week
Watch check! What’s on the wrist?
Seiko 5 sport, my shop beater automatic hahaha
Jonathan Katz-Moses love it. Automatic but still stands up to drill press vibrations. Hobby horticulturist, woodworker, bourbon collector over here. Oh and subscriber!
1:58 dude, there's a ghost in the background 👻