I've been using Hayden primary chain tensioner since 2000. It works well in a stock low powered engine. I used it on my 95 Softail, but once I installed 10 to 1 pistons, Edelbrock heads, Andrews EV27 cam and a 1.7 starter it became an issue. During start up the chain would tighten and loosen while the starter was engaged causing it to sound like teeth were missing on the starter gears. I removed the Hayden tensioner and re-stalled the original Harley tensioner and the problem went away. I encounter the same problem on my 2013 CVO Road King and my 2015 St Glide with the 120 St motor using the Hayden tensioner. On both bikes I replace not only the chain tensioner but also the compensator using Baker Attitude Ajuster and compensator. This eliminated both the starting problem but also the shut down rattle problem. The only problem now is both my 2013 and 2015 bikes have to have the primary cover removed every 5,000 mile to check the chain tensioner.
Paul Fenchel now that my bike has a Zippers 107 sport kit in it, I don’t think the Hayden is the best option anymore. So far the Baker Attitude adjuster has been good.
I have a 2010 Road Glide and I am running a Screaming Eagle compensator with a Hayden chain tensioner. Rodee the bike to Sturgis from Chicago and back with no problems. Running 90 to 100 through South Dakota. Ran fine.
I know it's been said a thousand times but the baker comp and adjuster is the trouble free way to go if you have a 07 to 11 twincam. I got 39K out of the stock garbage before my starter gear exploded and did damage everywhere.
Only ride in summer? Here in Queensland, Australia, winter is the best riding season, summer gets too hot, but we ride 365 anyway. Have you considered the Twin Power compensator eliminator/ Baker tensioner combo?
rickybobby1340 I wish I could ride year round. The problem here is snow, ice, sub zero temperatures and tons of salt spread on the roads that eats up aluminum and causes rust. If this compensator fails I think I’ll try a Baker compensator. So far the Baker attitude adjuster has been good. I think it’s louder than the Hayden tensioner was but I only have a few hundred miles on it. They’ve salted the hell out of the roads now so I’m done riding until it thaws and we get a couple good rains in the spring.
Been running a Darkhorse Man O War and a SO Hot Bikes hydraulic tensioner in my 2016 Heritage for over 2,000 miles now with zero issues at all. The bike shift great and finding neutral is while the bike is running is no longer a problem.
Try some Lucas oil additive it's a great product for any oil stabilizer situation. I use it all around in my 1969 Flatside Shovel Head. Engine oil, tranny oil and I use a 50/50 mix Lucas, automatic transmission oil in my primary and transmission. All is good !
Not from this place, it’s the stock clutch pack with a Screamin Eagle variable pressure clutch. The orange weights move with increased centrifugal force and place greater pressure on the clutch spring as RPM’s increase. It has the added benefit of not making clutch pull harder like just adding a stiffer spring would. I’ve found that it works very well to prevent clutch slippage in a bike that puts out more power than stock, in fact I consider it necessary. It’s the same as an AIM variable pressure clutch. I’m sure it’s made by AIM. Fuel Moto also sells one with their name on it that is made by AIM. www.harley-davidson.com/store/se-variable-pressure-clutch www.fuelmotousa.com/i-20859235-aim-fuel-moto-custom-variable-pressure-clutch.html#!year%3D2001%7C%7Cmake%3DHARLEY-DAVIDSON%7C%7Cmodel%3DTOURING%20ROAD%20KING%20CLASSIC%20FLHRC
skydude426 That noise that made you decided to switch from Hayden to Baker tensioner....... You said it was "Loud".... Was it a loud whirring noise out of the primary chain? I just installed a Man-O-War Motorsprocket (semi-solid compensator) and a Hayden 07 tensioner. Now I am getting a high pitched whirring chain noise from my primary (haven't opened it back up yet). Sounds like the chain is too tight . I can not get Hayden to call me back on a tech question request. wanted to as Hayden if there was a softer (looser) spring set available. Seems like I read in one of the blogs that Hayden had sent them a optional spring set to alleviate a tight chain. So how would you describe that "it was just to loud" noise that made you switch the a Baker tensioner..... And did that solve the noise issue?
NativeSD53 the Hayden will be louder than usual for the first few hundred miles. It does quiet down some once the edges of the chain get worn into the shoe. The first couple years they made the BT07, the springs were overly strong. They have since changed springs. I never felt like it was overly tight. Once I built up my engine to a 107” I started getting an occasional chain slap I never had before. I now have completely removed my compensator and replaced it with a solid sprocket while retaining the Baker chain tensioner. I’ve got over 1000 miles on it now and I’m very happy with it. I get a little more engine vibration but it’s no big deal. No more clunky comp. One thing I can say is that there is always whirring noise from the chain going over the shoe no matter what you have in there. When you installed the Hayden, did you have at least 5/8” of free play in the chain? It doesn’t have to be all loose chain but you shouldn’t have to compress the spring much to move the chain up and down 5/8 of an inch.
Did the baker tensioner take care of the noise issue. I just put a drag performance manual tensioner in mine and after that it was very noisy. Put a baker compensator in it, but still noisey. Should I try a baker manual tensioner as well?
RyaN Poe it’s a Screamin Eagle variable pressure clutch made by AIM. You can also get one from Fuel Moto for a little less money but it’s the same thing made by AIM. www.harley-davidson.com/store/se-variable-pressure-clutch www.fuelmotousa.com/i-20859235-aim-fuel-moto-custom-variable-pressure-clutch.html#!year%3D2001%7C%7Cmake%3DHARLEY-DAVIDSON%7C%7Cmodel%3DTOURING%20ROAD%20KING%20CLASSIC%20FLHRC
Baker Compensator is built like a tank! I have the Baker Compensator and the Baker Attitude tensioner in my 08 Ultra and haven’t had any issues and i am going on 20,000 miles since I installed. The original automatic tensioner causes havoc on my clutch hub etc. had to replace that also because the splines inside the hub were broke. You did good with going with the Baker Attitude. Spectro is great primary fluid
Randall Barger I’m assuming you know where the oil drain plug is down low on the front of the oil pan. The transmission drain plug looks just like it but it is on the bottom of the oil pan. Both plugs use a 5/8” wrench or I believe a 3/16” Allen wrench. The transmission basically has an internal passage through the oil pan. That’s why the drain plug is on the oil pan.
I honestly don’t remember for sure but I think I could with the Hayden. The Baker Attitude Adjuster I’m using now can’t be installed without removing the chain.
FOG this last winter I replaced my compensator with a Twin Power compensator eliminator. It’s a solid sprocket. I really like it. I can feel a little more vibration but it’s no big deal. No more clunky and noisy compensator.
My crank run out is .002 at the end of the pinion shaft where it rides in the cam plate. I have rebuilt my engine and installed an S&S crank since this video was made. I don’t remember what the runout of my stock crank was off hand but it was high. I no longer run a Hayden tensioner. I have a Baker Attitude adjuster and I just installed a Dark Horse Man O War compensator and a Barnett Scorpion clutch this winter. I’m looking forward to see what it’s like. My stock clutch was slipping in first gear after my rebuild, even with the Screaming Eagle variable pressure clutch.
@@skydude426 it sounds like you have a handle on it. Keep us posted on how things turn out for you with the new components. Wish you the best in what’s ahead for this country.
@@skydude426 How’s the baker adjuster and DH comp combo doing now? I have the DH comp, baker adjuster I’m installing Monday as well as new clutch and inner primary bearing. I’m beefing up my primary before I do my 107 build. My engine is running great now but I’m having the failing stock comp. hot start problems so I’m repairing and preparing.
@@deegan727 my current primary setup is excellent! DH Como, Baker attitude adjuster and a Barnett Scorpion clutch. Works great with my 107 big bore. I couldn’t be happier with my primary.
@@skydude426 Thanks. Today I read someone was told by Dark Horse not to run a manual adjuster with their comp. I’ll call them to see maybe why that would be. I’m sure I’ll use the baker adjuster anyway. Of all the people using the DH comp or other sprockets and their not having problems with the Baker I’m sure I’ll be alright.
Baker would sell a lot more compensator set-ups if they would lower the price some......We kinda all know now that Baker comps and manual chain tensioners is the way to go...
In that case, your safe bet is a Baker Attitude Adjuster. Make sure to follow the directions and check the chain tension at several points as you rotate the clutch basket 360 degrees. Set it on the loose side of the tolerance given in the directions.
Garage Therapy, last winter I eliminated my compensator with a solid sprocket. So far I really like it. I get a little more vibration at times but it’s not a big deal. No more clunky, noisy compensator is nice. If the Manowar was out then, I hadn’t seen anything about it or I probably would have went that route. I’m certainly not disappointed with the solid sprocket.
Garage Therapy I think that’s a good call. I have an S&S crank so I’m not worried about scissoring the crank like a lot of people seem to think will happen with a solid sprocket. For now I’m just going to stick with what I have. If you remember, let me know what you think of the Manowar after running it awhile.
@@skydude426 I just put one in and I’m not sure if I like it or not. It seems to preform well but real noisy. Not in the compensator but in the clutch area when in neutral. When I pull the clutch in it goes away. I think it’s called “clutch knock”.
Have you thought of getting rid of the compensator and installing a solid sprocket. I've just done this to my bike, also installed Hayden and a Barnett extra plate clutch.
Darin Watson yes I’ve considered it. I’m leery about the shock and vibrations that will get transferred to the driveline without a compensating sprocket, it’s in there for a reason. Have you noticed a difference now that your running a solid sprocket, and about how many miles have you been running that way?
@@skydude426 I haven't run it yet!! I've looked at a lot of info on it and came to the conclusion it should be fine. Solid sprockets are used on most high performance engines, to me it seems the compensator is meant to prevent shock however the way they work shock is still there. The compensator when full connected is a solid hit, its metal grinding metal. When it binds it puts strain on the starter. Hiw do you like the baker chain tensioner?
I only had the Baker tensioner in for a couple hundred miles before winter hit here in South Dakota. So far it’s been good. I don’t think it’s wore in yet. I think the wear in of the Baker is louder than the wear in of the Hayden was, but maybe not as I’m going on memory.
My Hayden failed after riding my bike with the Hayden tensioner from Redding Calif to Sturgis and back, plus about 1,000 miles or 4,500 total miles! Half of the Hayden was gone from my tensioner! I sent it back to Hayden, they jerked me around at Hayden, I wanted my money back they sent me another new one, I wouldn’t put it in my bike!!
Ive deleted 3 compensators in conjunction w/the armored tensioner(i like the larger pad) 2 of the 3 have over 10k miles with zero issues... Dump that comp!!!!!
I eliminated the comp with a solid sprocket. I liked it but it did have more vibration at idle. Then I saw the Dark Horse comp on Baxter’s Garage channel. It looked very interesting to me so I decided to try it since I was opening my primary to change my clutch anyway. The setup is awesome. I’ve never been happier with my primary drive than I am now. The Dark Horse seems to be holding up just fine.
Harley cant get it right with the compensators, is like a 3rd generation already of SE compensators and they still failing, Since 2007 Harley have issues and they dont get it right, even they sale a new compensator with piece of plastic you have to glue inside the primary case for deflect oil and lubricate the compensator itself, facepalm! who want a piece of plastic glued inside the primary case?, no me for sure. Harley dont manufacture nothing, 3rd party companies do it for them and who make the washer-springs from the Screaming Eagle compensators dont do it right, they give you a temporary solution becasue they are weak to. The bikes form 2007 to 2011 have the worst problems, 2007 was when Harley released the 96ci engine mounted in the 88ci compensator, the 96ci have more power and fucked up the 88ci compensator in no time, what piss me off is Harley havent done a recall for this and if you want to fix it you have to pay out of your pocket! so you fix the lemon created for Harley engineers. My next bike going to be a BMW or Triumph or something else, fuck Harley. I spent like $800 in parts for fix this Harley crap and that was only in parts, I put a Baker compensator, tensioner and stator rotor, money you dont get back if you sale or trade your bike.
Bad Matt ok. I’m in the middle of doing some more work to my bike. One thing I’m going to do is install a solid sprocket instead of the compensator. At that time I’ll have to set the chain tensioner up again so I will film it and put it on the video. It might be a couple weeks though. Life is busy.
The way I understand it is the aluminum engine, transmission and primary casings expand, which has the effect of tightening the chain as the motor output shaft and the transmission input shafts move farther apart due to the expansion of the hot aluminum casings.
@@skydude426 Yes your 100 percent right all the information over the years that I have gotten says the chain gets tighter as the engine comes up to temperature or warmer
If. Had. Alde roller. On. Top chain push down and one on bottom. Push. Up znd float. With spring. One give when other. Tight. Give and take from each other would be. Best wY. To. Have chain it would be to hard. To. Make that.
When. Got. On. It. Top. Roller would. Push. Down. Because bottom would tight. And. Bottom. Would go down. With. Top one. And both would. Go. Say way one go. Down both would go down. And up same this would keep tension same. On top. And bottom. All the. Time. This whzt need. Znf. By that you would need. Comsator
After watching this entire video of you telling us you have no proof of anything either way I now have no idea what the point of you making and posting this for us to see was...?? No help at all.
I apologize if you feel like I wasted your time and you took nothing away from this video. Last year I ditched the compensator all together and installed a solid sprocket. I ran it with a Baker Attitude Adjuster. I liked it much better than having the compensator. The only real noticeable drawback was an increased vibration at idle, mostly at stop lights is where I noticed it. I’m currently in the process of installing a Barnett clutch and a Dark Horse compensator. I’m keeping the Baker chain adjuster. That information is probably no help either. My point is that what I have learned through all this is I don’t think it matters if a person wants to use a Hayden or a Baker chain tensioner. Both should perform well. I’ve found the real weak links to be the stock chain tensioner that can ratchet up too tight and the Harley compensator which is prone to failure especially on bikes that are running considerably more torque than stock.
@@skydude426 Thanks. FYI, the dark horse compensator can make a lot of noise that sounds like its installed wrong or something is wrong. If the noise doesn't bother you you should like the performance.
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The Baker design = the old Harley design. Basically.
I never had a problem with the old manual tensioner. KISS.
I've been using Hayden primary chain tensioner since 2000. It works well in a stock low powered engine. I used it on my 95 Softail, but once I installed 10 to 1 pistons, Edelbrock heads, Andrews EV27 cam and a 1.7 starter it became an issue. During start up the chain would tighten and loosen while the starter was engaged causing it to sound like teeth were missing on the starter gears. I removed the Hayden tensioner and re-stalled the original Harley tensioner and the problem went away.
I encounter the same problem on my 2013 CVO Road King and my 2015 St Glide with the 120 St motor using the Hayden tensioner. On both bikes I replace not only the chain tensioner but also the compensator using Baker Attitude Ajuster and compensator. This eliminated both the starting problem but also the shut down rattle problem. The only problem now is both my 2013 and 2015 bikes have to have the primary cover removed every 5,000 mile to check the chain tensioner.
Paul Fenchel now that my bike has a Zippers 107 sport kit in it, I don’t think the Hayden is the best option anymore. So far the Baker Attitude adjuster has been good.
I have a 2010 Road Glide and I am running a Screaming Eagle compensator with a Hayden chain tensioner. Rodee the bike to Sturgis from Chicago and back with no problems. Running 90 to 100 through South Dakota. Ran fine.
I know it's been said a thousand times but the baker comp and adjuster is the trouble free way to go if you have a 07 to 11 twincam. I got 39K out of the stock garbage before my starter gear exploded and did damage everywhere.
Add a adjustable ignition and a single fire coil will help with backfiring thru the carb or throttle plate if it’s injected.
That can contribute to the backlash when starting the motor.
Only ride in summer? Here in Queensland, Australia, winter is the best riding season, summer gets too hot, but we ride 365 anyway. Have you considered the Twin Power compensator eliminator/ Baker tensioner combo?
rickybobby1340 I wish I could ride year round. The problem here is snow, ice, sub zero temperatures and tons of salt spread on the roads that eats up aluminum and causes rust. If this compensator fails I think I’ll try a Baker compensator. So far the Baker attitude adjuster has been good. I think it’s louder than the Hayden tensioner was but I only have a few hundred miles on it. They’ve salted the hell out of the roads now so I’m done riding until it thaws and we get a couple good rains in the spring.
Been running a Darkhorse Man O War and a SO Hot Bikes hydraulic tensioner in my 2016 Heritage for over 2,000 miles now with zero issues at all. The bike shift great and finding neutral is while the bike is running is no longer a problem.
good to hear, im going with the Hot bikes tensioner as well.
@@IRONTOSS I think you’ll like it. I going to order one for my 2010 FLHTK as well.
I would use whiteout to mark degrees just like adjusting pushrods
Try some Lucas oil additive it's a great product for any oil stabilizer situation. I use it all around in my 1969 Flatside Shovel Head. Engine oil, tranny oil and I use a 50/50 mix Lucas, automatic transmission oil in my primary and transmission. All is good !
How check the chain slack?
Like your video. I have one questions off topic. What kind of clutch setup is that please?
Not from this place, it’s the stock clutch pack with a Screamin Eagle variable pressure clutch. The orange weights move with increased centrifugal force and place greater pressure on the clutch spring as RPM’s increase. It has the added benefit of not making clutch pull harder like just adding a stiffer spring would. I’ve found that it works very well to prevent clutch slippage in a bike that puts out more power than stock, in fact I consider it necessary.
It’s the same as an AIM variable pressure clutch. I’m sure it’s made by AIM. Fuel Moto also sells one with their name on it that is made by AIM.
www.harley-davidson.com/store/se-variable-pressure-clutch
www.fuelmotousa.com/i-20859235-aim-fuel-moto-custom-variable-pressure-clutch.html#!year%3D2001%7C%7Cmake%3DHARLEY-DAVIDSON%7C%7Cmodel%3DTOURING%20ROAD%20KING%20CLASSIC%20FLHRC
@@skydude426 thank you
Get the complete clutch system from AIM
skydude426 That noise that made you decided to switch from Hayden to Baker tensioner....... You said it was "Loud".... Was it a loud whirring noise out of the primary chain? I just installed a Man-O-War Motorsprocket (semi-solid compensator) and a Hayden 07 tensioner. Now I am getting a high pitched whirring chain noise from my primary (haven't opened it back up yet). Sounds like the chain is too tight . I can not get Hayden to call me back on a tech question request. wanted to as Hayden if there was a softer (looser) spring set available. Seems like I read in one of the blogs that Hayden had sent them a optional spring set to alleviate a tight chain.
So how would you describe that "it was just to loud" noise that made you switch the a Baker tensioner..... And did that solve the noise issue?
NativeSD53 the Hayden will be louder than usual for the first few hundred miles. It does quiet down some once the edges of the chain get worn into the shoe. The first couple years they made the BT07, the springs were overly strong. They have since changed springs. I never felt like it was overly tight. Once I built up my engine to a 107” I started getting an occasional chain slap I never had before. I now have completely removed my compensator and replaced it with a solid sprocket while retaining the Baker chain tensioner. I’ve got over 1000 miles on it now and I’m very happy with it. I get a little more engine vibration but it’s no big deal. No more clunky comp. One thing I can say is that there is always whirring noise from the chain going over the shoe no matter what you have in there. When you installed the Hayden, did you have at least 5/8” of free play in the chain? It doesn’t have to be all loose chain but you shouldn’t have to compress the spring much to move the chain up and down 5/8 of an inch.
Did the baker tensioner take care of the noise issue. I just put a drag performance manual tensioner in mine and after that it was very noisy. Put a baker compensator in it, but still noisey.
Should I try a baker manual tensioner as well?
Primary’s are noisy. I don’t know if changing to a different manual tensioner would do much.
I couldn’t get parts for my screaming eagle compensator so I had to buy the whole thing again
Where did you get your clutch plate from...?
RyaN Poe it’s a Screamin Eagle variable pressure clutch made by AIM. You can also get one from Fuel Moto for a little less money but it’s the same thing made by AIM.
www.harley-davidson.com/store/se-variable-pressure-clutch
www.fuelmotousa.com/i-20859235-aim-fuel-moto-custom-variable-pressure-clutch.html#!year%3D2001%7C%7Cmake%3DHARLEY-DAVIDSON%7C%7Cmodel%3DTOURING%20ROAD%20KING%20CLASSIC%20FLHRC
Baker Compensator is built like a tank! I have the Baker Compensator and the Baker Attitude tensioner in my 08 Ultra and haven’t had any issues and i am going on 20,000 miles since I installed. The original automatic tensioner causes havoc on my clutch hub etc. had to replace that also because the splines inside the hub were broke. You did good with going with the Baker Attitude. Spectro is great primary fluid
Do u have to change rotor also
@@fanguy4life yes i did
@4:38 "when it heats up the chain gets tighter?... heat would cause metal to expand not contract?
Yes. The aluminum case expands which has the effect of tightening the chain.
I cannot locate my Transmisson Drain plug on my 2004 Harley Electra glide FLHT/CI. Someone help me
Randall Barger I’m assuming you know where the oil drain plug is down low on the front of the oil pan. The transmission drain plug looks just like it but it is on the bottom of the oil pan. Both plugs use a 5/8” wrench or I believe a 3/16” Allen wrench. The transmission basically has an internal passage through the oil pan. That’s why the drain plug is on the oil pan.
Randall Barger I’m assuming you want to drain the transmission and not the primary.
Can you squeeze that tensioner in there without removing the chain and the compensator??
I honestly don’t remember for sure but I think I could with the Hayden. The Baker Attitude Adjuster I’m using now can’t be installed without removing the chain.
Thank you 😊
Darkhorse crankworks makes a really good compensator for 2007 an up.
FOG this last winter I replaced my compensator with a Twin Power compensator eliminator. It’s a solid sprocket. I really like it. I can feel a little more vibration but it’s no big deal. No more clunky and noisy compensator.
@@skydude426 did you switch to a billet clutch basket at that time? If not you better look into it.
FOG It I’ve been looking at that. Next winters upgrade.
@@fogit4668 my 1 comp delete has over 20k on it..stock clutch basket
145hp/149tq..zero issues!!!
You might want to consider checking the run out on your crank. You might be surprised.
My crank run out is .002 at the end of the pinion shaft where it rides in the cam plate. I have rebuilt my engine and installed an S&S crank since this video was made.
I don’t remember what the runout of my stock crank was off hand but it was high.
I no longer run a Hayden tensioner. I have a Baker Attitude adjuster and I just installed a Dark Horse Man O War compensator and a Barnett Scorpion clutch this winter. I’m looking forward to see what it’s like. My stock clutch was slipping in first gear after my rebuild, even with the Screaming Eagle variable pressure clutch.
@@skydude426 it sounds like you have a handle on it. Keep us posted on how things turn out for you with the new components. Wish you the best in what’s ahead for this country.
@@skydude426 How’s the baker adjuster and DH comp combo doing now? I have the DH comp, baker adjuster I’m installing Monday as well as new clutch and inner primary bearing. I’m beefing up my primary before I do my 107 build. My engine is running great now but I’m having the failing stock comp. hot start problems so I’m repairing and preparing.
@@deegan727 my current primary setup is excellent! DH Como, Baker attitude adjuster and a Barnett Scorpion clutch. Works great with my 107 big bore. I couldn’t be happier with my primary.
@@skydude426 Thanks. Today I read someone was told by Dark Horse not to run a manual adjuster with their comp. I’ll call them to see maybe why that would be. I’m sure I’ll use the baker adjuster anyway. Of all the people using the DH comp or other sprockets and their not having problems with the Baker I’m sure I’ll be alright.
Baker would sell a lot more compensator set-ups if they would lower the price some......We kinda all know now that Baker comps and manual chain tensioners is the way to go...
Especially with Darkhorse 100 dollars cheaper
I have 2007 softail classic i need to know witch tension chain do i need
Akl Hachem, is your 2007 softail modified or stock?
I don't know i just bough it
In that case, your safe bet is a Baker Attitude Adjuster. Make sure to follow the directions and check the chain tension at several points as you rotate the clutch basket 360 degrees. Set it on the loose side of the tolerance given in the directions.
ruclips.net/video/_cN7deBIoqw/видео.html
You take the. Small spring out.
Check out the dark horse Manowar gear motor instead of the baker compensator
Garage Therapy, last winter I eliminated my compensator with a solid sprocket. So far I really like it. I get a little more vibration at times but it’s not a big deal. No more clunky, noisy compensator is nice. If the Manowar was out then, I hadn’t seen anything about it or I probably would have went that route. I’m certainly not disappointed with the solid sprocket.
I’m going with the man-o-war.
Garage Therapy I think that’s a good call. I have an S&S crank so I’m not worried about scissoring the crank like a lot of people seem to think will happen with a solid sprocket. For now I’m just going to stick with what I have. If you remember, let me know what you think of the Manowar after running it awhile.
Get rid of the screaming eagle compensator… Get the Ironhorse Manowar along with the Hayden chain tensioner your troubles will be over
Do you have to remove the clutch and compensator to install the tensioner?
Brush yes I did.
@@skydude426 thank you for the quick response. If I have to do that I might as well do the baker compensator at the same time
Brush not a bad idea to take care of that while it’s apart.
Brush Darkhorse Crankwerks has a new design compensator you might want to check out.
@@skydude426 I just put one in and I’m not sure if I like it or not. It seems to preform well but real noisy. Not in the compensator but in the clutch area when in neutral. When I pull the clutch in it goes away. I think it’s called “clutch knock”.
I here ever one. Going back to Maualuga. Adjuster
I don’t know where Maualuga is but hope I can travel there one day 😎
Have you thought of getting rid of the compensator and installing a solid sprocket. I've just done this to my bike, also installed Hayden and a Barnett extra plate clutch.
Darin Watson yes I’ve considered it. I’m leery about the shock and vibrations that will get transferred to the driveline without a compensating sprocket, it’s in there for a reason. Have you noticed a difference now that your running a solid sprocket, and about how many miles have you been running that way?
@@skydude426 I haven't run it yet!! I've looked at a lot of info on it and came to the conclusion it should be fine. Solid sprockets are used on most high performance engines, to me it seems the compensator is meant to prevent shock however the way they work shock is still there. The compensator when full connected is a solid hit, its metal grinding metal. When it binds it puts strain on the starter. Hiw do you like the baker chain tensioner?
I live in Northen British Columbia. It's too cold to ride right now.
I only had the Baker tensioner in for a couple hundred miles before winter hit here in South Dakota. So far it’s been good. I don’t think it’s wore in yet. I think the wear in of the Baker is louder than the wear in of the Hayden was, but maybe not as I’m going on memory.
@@wattyd6867 let us know how it runs. I'm considering this on my home stock 103
My Hayden failed after riding my bike with the Hayden tensioner from Redding Calif to Sturgis and back, plus about 1,000 miles or 4,500 total miles! Half of the Hayden was gone from my tensioner! I sent it back to Hayden, they jerked me around at Hayden, I wanted my money back they sent me another new one, I wouldn’t put it in my bike!!
Ive deleted 3 compensators in conjunction w/the armored tensioner(i like the larger pad)
2 of the 3 have over 10k miles with zero issues...
Dump that comp!!!!!
William Nixon, I have. I’m now running a Dark Horse comp and a Barnett Scorpion clutch with the Armored adjuster. I love the set up.
I eliminated the comp with a solid sprocket. I liked it but it did have more vibration at idle. Then I saw the Dark Horse comp on Baxter’s Garage channel. It looked very interesting to me so I decided to try it since I was opening my primary to change my clutch anyway. The setup is awesome. I’ve never been happier with my primary drive than I am now. The Dark Horse seems to be holding up just fine.
@skydude426 I know this is an older comment, but how's everything holding up? If you still have it...
You did. You. Modfid it You take the xmall spring out of it.
Harley cant get it right with the compensators, is like a 3rd generation already of SE compensators and they still failing, Since 2007 Harley have issues and they dont get it right, even they sale a new compensator with piece of plastic you have to glue inside the primary case for deflect oil and lubricate the compensator itself, facepalm! who want a piece of plastic glued inside the primary case?, no me for sure. Harley dont manufacture nothing, 3rd party companies do it for them and who make the washer-springs from the Screaming Eagle compensators dont do it right, they give you a temporary solution becasue they are weak to.
The bikes form 2007 to 2011 have the worst problems, 2007 was when Harley released the 96ci engine mounted in the 88ci compensator, the 96ci have more power and fucked up the 88ci compensator in no time, what piss me off is Harley havent done a recall for this and if you want to fix it you have to pay out of your pocket! so you fix the lemon created for Harley engineers. My next bike going to be a BMW or Triumph or something else, fuck Harley. I spent like $800 in parts for fix this Harley crap and that was only in parts, I put a Baker compensator, tensioner and stator rotor, money you dont get back if you sale or trade your bike.
You talked about the set up. But, I would like to see the set up.
Bad Matt ok. I’m in the middle of doing some more work to my bike. One thing I’m going to do is install a solid sprocket instead of the compensator. At that time I’ll have to set the chain tensioner up again so I will film it and put it on the video. It might be a couple weeks though. Life is busy.
@@skydude426 I wait with anticipation.
I just put up a new video about adjusting the Baker Attitude Adjuster.
@@skydude426 Please paste the link
ruclips.net/video/_cN7deBIoqw/видео.html
spin your motor over till your chain gets to its tightest point (all chains do this primary or drive) then make your adjustment.
I can. See that this would be best up grad. That can be made I don't flank you could ever get any better then that
You say Mark Baker told you the chain tightens up when hot. That can’t be right as metal expands with heat. SO Hot Bike says the exact opposite
The way I understand it is the aluminum engine, transmission and primary casings expand, which has the effect of tightening the chain as the motor output shaft and the transmission input shafts move farther apart due to the expansion of the hot aluminum casings.
@@skydude426 Yes your 100 percent right all the information over the years that I have gotten says the chain gets tighter as the engine comes up to temperature or warmer
my hayden failed after my 6000 mile ride to sturgis on my 2012 street glide. total junk.
jim shaefer that’s good to know for anyone considering the Hayden. Thanks for commenting.
Could you provide a little more detail on how it failed?
You take. Small spring out of it. That your doing
What happen. To. Adjuster. When fall with you. It. Chain get real lose start nock. Up. Again. Cover.
It. Need tension roller on top and bottom. One. Give. The other tight up. It. Gibe. And take.
If. Had. Alde roller. On. Top chain push down and one on bottom. Push. Up znd float. With spring. One give when other. Tight. Give and take from each other would be. Best wY. To. Have chain it would be to hard. To. Make that.
Tension. Roller would be best. If. Get some Mach. Xhop to format you. One. Tension. Roller. This. Whst would make. Just. Right.
You would need. Little. Linger chain. No. Much. Just. In are two. Longer
I use. Lukus. Primer. Oil. Make. Quite.
Some guys just don’t leave well enough alone and spend more time “fixing” instead of “riding”
To some, like myself, working on my bike is almost as enjoyable as riding it. So ya, I can’t leave well enough alone. I’ll admit it.
Wood a belt be better
When. Got. On. It. Top. Roller would. Push. Down. Because bottom would tight. And. Bottom. Would go down. With. Top one. And both would. Go. Say way one go. Down both would go down. And up same this would keep tension same. On top. And bottom. All the. Time. This whzt need. Znf. By that you would need. Comsator
After watching this entire video of you telling us you have no proof of anything either way I now have no idea what the point of you making and posting this for us to see was...?? No help at all.
I apologize if you feel like I wasted your time and you took nothing away from this video. Last year I ditched the compensator all together and installed a solid sprocket. I ran it with a Baker Attitude Adjuster. I liked it much better than having the compensator. The only real noticeable drawback was an increased vibration at idle, mostly at stop lights is where I noticed it. I’m currently in the process of installing a Barnett clutch and a Dark Horse compensator. I’m keeping the Baker chain adjuster. That information is probably no help either.
My point is that what I have learned through all this is I don’t think it matters if a person wants to use a Hayden or a Baker chain tensioner. Both should perform well. I’ve found the real weak links to be the stock chain tensioner that can ratchet up too tight and the Harley compensator which is prone to failure especially on bikes that are running considerably more torque than stock.
@@skydude426 Thanks. FYI, the dark horse compensator can make a lot of noise that sounds like its installed wrong or something is wrong. If the noise doesn't bother you you should like the performance.
Why? Cuz it's a bad design