A common thing you might want to do is drill them hollow. That way they twist a bit more before snapping entirely. Very common for people using the original rear diff in drag cars etc.
A friend sent me two replacement shafts, I was lucky 🙂 it can be difficult to get the shafts without buying a whole rear axle since it turns a rolling shell into an ornament.
It should slide in smoothly. Having done this a lot I've never had to hammer them in. They just click in and you press a little. If anything the bearing will be the issue but I throw SKF LGMT2 on it.
If you weld the diff with the shafts still in place, the heat affects the strength of them (softens) and they are more prone to twisting and shearing off...apparently
Very interesting, I hadn’t thought about that, I don’t know the history of the diff or the shafts but it’s a possible factor if it was welded with the shafts in situe, the worn bushes causing axle tramp were definitely not helping either! All good now since the replacement shafts and the whole car being poly bushed
There are longer and shorter versions and generally speaking the longer ones are more commonly found in the older vehicles. Most important is honestly to just put them in the same way they sat prior to removal if used. If you switch L/R you'll end up twisting them opposite of how they've been twisted for the past 30 years.
Helpful, clear and informative. Thanks.
A common thing you might want to do is drill them hollow. That way they twist a bit more before snapping entirely. Very common for people using the original rear diff in drag cars etc.
Was it the original rear axle or did you change it? I read on the forums that it cannot withstand high power.
Loved this, mine diff has given up the ghost, where did you get the replacement?
A friend sent me two replacement shafts, I was lucky 🙂 it can be difficult to get the shafts without buying a whole rear axle since it turns a rolling shell into an ornament.
Did you not use an actual gasket on the differential cover. Looks like you just used a flexible sealant product?
Commonly you'll use make a gasket there instead. Works just as well if not better honestly.
After putting the shafts back in, do you just hammer it back in to re-seat the bearings in the diff?
It should slide in smoothly. Having done this a lot I've never had to hammer them in. They just click in and you press a little. If anything the bearing will be the issue but I throw SKF LGMT2 on it.
If you weld the diff with the shafts still in place, the heat affects the strength of them (softens) and they are more prone to twisting and shearing off...apparently
Very interesting, I hadn’t thought about that, I don’t know the history of the diff or the shafts but it’s a possible factor if it was welded with the shafts in situe, the worn bushes causing axle tramp were definitely not helping either! All good now since the replacement shafts and the whole car being poly bushed
Is the 940 driveshafts on the 740 too or are they different
There are longer and shorter versions and generally speaking the longer ones are more commonly found in the older vehicles. Most important is honestly to just put them in the same way they sat prior to removal if used. If you switch L/R you'll end up twisting them opposite of how they've been twisted for the past 30 years.
nice car
Too bad it's being used as a drift car! 🙁
@bobjohnson205 soooo bad 😭😂😂😂
Check Drifts and Lifts RUclips channel. On one video he said that hole needed to be drilled deeper in driveshaft. That will prevent snapping off.
Which video?
@ ruclips.net/video/crKOoAShENY/видео.html
The one where he trashes a perfectly good Volvo! @
@@bobjohnson205 can you please tell what’s the video exactly
@@momchilbalev7752 That's pretty much every video! lol
I have torsen. in stock and 30 splies diffs. momentstag to.
with a breaker bar that long to remove wheel nuts, they are probably way over torqued