I came to your channel via Sid a few months ago. I haven't a clue about cars, don't even drive but I hang on to every word you say. I'm hooked. Elsa is the one to watch as she gets better every day. Well done Sledge.
The GoPro video is so sharp, you can smell the gear oil! I confess that of all things I'd suspected could be leaking at the differential, a hole in the cover was the very last. Which is what makes this series so valuable to us driver/mechanics; on a car thirty years old, with lots of miles and then a long period of disuse, who can predict what will fail and need repair? Lesson learned.
Going fast with a Volvo on the autobahn? I think you'll need a few more cylinders ;) I cheered when I heard the "click" of the sensor bolt loosening up! I never pulled the sensor out of my 940 because I was worried it would have rounded out! I have always found a little silicone lube had done wonders for reinstalling o-rings. Obviously that wasn't the issue here but still something I've found useful! It's crazy it got a pin hole right there! Dang rust! Props to you guys for welding it. I have used RTV on many occasions. 🤣 I have a lot of respect for how resourceful you are! Watching you fill the gear oil looked stressful. Great video as always! Can't wait to see what is next!
I honestly expected it to round out 😅 I could really do with some silicone grease, I used some gear oil this time just stop it going in dry. I was very close to using JB weld 😃 Thanks buddy!
Good job mate! Thanks for showing how it's done! Diff fluid change is still on my "to do" list ;D. I'm affraid this hasn't been changed since 30 years😂. Thanks for reminder! ;D
You can try orthophosphoric acid. It can convert iron oxide back to iron again. It can usually bought it in hardware stores and boat shops. I have used in on cars more than once as long as you brush away loose rust and do not to do not get on rusty bolts and wear a mask when using it, it is fine.
@@Involvod I don't know if there's something similar available in Germany, but here in the US we have something called Evapo-Rust (Hand Tool Rescue on YT uses it). It is non-toxic and reusable. Great for soaking smaller parts like your diff cover in. I bought a jug and used it on my driver's side window regulator - about 12 hours in a plastic bag soaking in the stuff and a nice even coat of (thin, admittedly) rust was completely gone. Then I just funneled it back into the bottle and it's there to use again later. Very valuable for old cars like ours when you encounter small parts that could use some de-rusting but aren't totally ruined. They also make a cream version for larger parts or vertical surfaces but I've never seen anyone use it. Adam Savage has a video on it with some more info in the comments. ruclips.net/video/xf3ma1XFt9Y/видео.html
The welding looks like ..... but I hope for you, it will last until Valhalla. Nice Video , the Go Pro and you to a good job. Greetings #grow4 revolution
How did Elsa get that pinhole, especially in the differential, I could see if it was where you put the oil in, the plug, or where there are, I believe 10 bolts, it uses a gasket or you have to put some kind of sealer, also I wonder how long is that weld is going to cover the hole.
My diff case looked like some deep sea salvage job, it was never properly rust proofed and 24 years on the road finally took it's toll. The bottom of the diff was pitted so badly the descaler gun went right through it. Unfortunately welding cast iron is a bit sketchy affair so I obtained a new rear axle housing and plan to transplant the internals into it. Can't wait to get to shim the damn thing...
I would check to see about getting a cover to replace that one, I.kind of don*t trust that weld, because particles of the weld can get in the mechanism and further damage it, or like it has happened, with me, and a gas tank it had a pinhole, where gasoline or petrol would like seep out, after they had put on some kind of repair or weld that is why I am a bit cautious.
@@Involvod have you tried a junkyard or scrapyard, to at least get a better cover,? , also I am surprised that when you brought Elsa for the inspection that the person or persons couldn*t notice that there is/was a leak , they being so strick, you had to find out on your own, sincerely what type persons who make these inspections, that if you have some rust or a light ain*t working, so they can fail the person right away, and yet they cannot pinpoint you to a leak,🙄🙄🙄🙄sorry but I would question them, you have to pay a fee, in order to get the license plate or the sticker that it uses?
Another great video on a "diff"erent place underneath your car. Never been there on my Volvo 240. What's actually the recommended change interval for the diff oil? Thanks. Keep up the good work.
Cheers! Good question, I just checked the Haynes manual and had a look online and couldn't get any solid info, one person recommended 50k miles. Personally i'd check the fluid and if it's dark drop it, mine wasn't the worst but as you might have seen the magnet on the drain plug was full and there was metal in the oil so was definitely due. But the most important thing is the level not going too low, the 940 I had ran low before I got it, I topped it up straight away but it was forever noisy because of it..
The floors 😅 Everything else has been straightforward enough, that's the great thing about these! I'm really excited for DB 192's videos they are really well put together and that car needs alot of love
Sorry I watched Sids first this time :-)🤣Good that it was a relatively easy fix, I have never seen a rusted through diff case as normally they leak a bit to 'protect' themselves 🙂. Getting EP oil into diffs and gearboxes is a right pain as you can never pour it in from above! Is that 'sensor' thing a sort of diff lock? Looked like it could be a solenoid that pushes on the splined bit you could see in the diff on the right?
That's only fair 😄 Without removing that suspension arm it would have been much harder. It's a speed sensor, might be taking it out again soon as the speedometer doesn't work 🙄 But hopefully it's a broken gear inside the instrument cluster
@@Involvod Check the wiring between sensor and body. Like the wiring to the transmission solenoid, it loves to wear out as things flex and it gets blasted with road muck.
No dripping Elsa anymore!! Well done Sledge!
Thanks 🙂
Another top job Sir Sledge 👏
Thanks Chief!
The video quality is amazing
Thanks! 👍👍
I came to your channel via Sid a few months ago. I haven't a clue about cars, don't even drive but I hang on to every word you say. I'm hooked. Elsa is the one to watch as she gets better every day. Well done Sledge.
I wouldn't trust me for reliable information 🤣 but I really appreciate your support! Thanks 🙂
You bring up some pressing jobs for older cars, the list grows :D
I thought the channel might get repetetive, but these are old enough now to keep it interesting 😃
I miss your videos, Sledge!!! Timeless content just like the cars!
The GoPro video is so sharp, you can smell the gear oil! I confess that of all things I'd suspected could be leaking at the differential, a hole in the cover was the very last. Which is what makes this series so valuable to us driver/mechanics; on a car thirty years old, with lots of miles and then a long period of disuse, who can predict what will fail and need repair? Lesson learned.
Thanks for the feedback! And glad I'm not the only one 😃
I have to hand it to you…You jump in and do stuff I’d be too nervous to do! 😉
Glad it turned into another success for you and Elsa! 😃
Thanks 😃
Man those sounds gave me flashbacks to the time I had some bad tacos...
😂
Geez i hate having a leaky rear end! Thats a pretty good hole.
Don't like a leaky hole do we
@@Involvod They are the worst! Always needing a towel. Save some for the rest of us!
A very satisfying repair!
Cheers, I first contemplated using JB weld, but now I'm glad I didn't 😃 And it was cheaper to get it welded
Going fast with a Volvo on the autobahn? I think you'll need a few more cylinders ;)
I cheered when I heard the "click" of the sensor bolt loosening up! I never pulled the sensor out of my 940 because I was worried it would have rounded out!
I have always found a little silicone lube had done wonders for reinstalling o-rings. Obviously that wasn't the issue here but still something I've found useful!
It's crazy it got a pin hole right there! Dang rust! Props to you guys for welding it. I have used RTV on many occasions. 🤣
I have a lot of respect for how resourceful you are! Watching you fill the gear oil looked stressful.
Great video as always! Can't wait to see what is next!
I honestly expected it to round out 😅 I could really do with some silicone grease, I used some gear oil this time just stop it going in dry.
I was very close to using JB weld 😃 Thanks buddy!
Love the sound at 9:37 plz slip more of these noises into your content
Educational and entertaining as always. I appreciate your cool, dry, wit. I’ve learned much from you. Please keep the videos coming. Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words! Really appreciate that 👍
Good job mate! Thanks for showing how it's done! Diff fluid change is still on my "to do" list ;D. I'm affraid this hasn't been changed since 30 years😂. Thanks for reminder! ;D
Thanks mate! It's something I still need to do on Lili, but it's one of those jobs I'm also guilty of putting off!
Great video! You'll be fine, rear diffs are low pressure systems, oil is there just soaking everything. Regards, Nacho.
You can try orthophosphoric acid. It can convert iron oxide back to iron again. It can usually bought it in hardware stores and boat shops. I have used in on cars more than once as long as you brush away loose rust and do not to do not get on rusty bolts and wear a mask when using it, it is fine.
Thanks for the tip!
@@Involvod I don't know if there's something similar available in Germany, but here in the US we have something called Evapo-Rust (Hand Tool Rescue on YT uses it). It is non-toxic and reusable. Great for soaking smaller parts like your diff cover in. I bought a jug and used it on my driver's side window regulator - about 12 hours in a plastic bag soaking in the stuff and a nice even coat of (thin, admittedly) rust was completely gone. Then I just funneled it back into the bottle and it's there to use again later. Very valuable for old cars like ours when you encounter small parts that could use some de-rusting but aren't totally ruined.
They also make a cream version for larger parts or vertical surfaces but I've never seen anyone use it.
Adam Savage has a video on it with some more info in the comments. ruclips.net/video/xf3ma1XFt9Y/видео.html
@@Khrrck nice, I'll check it out, probably a better long term solution than fluid film only. Cheers!
Hey bro, job well done, cant wait to see more on the new purchase!
Thanks man! That's coming up in the next installment!
great work, I hate gear dope. I once ruined a nice shirt working on a car with a leaking diff. The wife wasn't happy at all.
Haha yeah it's a nightmare eh!
The welding looks like ..... but I hope for you, it will last until Valhalla. Nice Video , the Go Pro and you to a good job. Greetings #grow4 revolution
🤣 Yeah for a quick €5 job it will hopefully be alright, I think with oil on both sides of the cover it could be. Thanks for the feedback 👍
How did Elsa get that pinhole, especially in the differential, I could see if it was where you put the oil in, the plug, or where there are, I believe 10 bolts, it uses a gasket or you have to put some kind of sealer, also I wonder how long is that weld is going to cover the hole.
My diff case looked like some deep sea salvage job, it was never properly rust proofed and 24 years on the road finally took it's toll. The bottom of the diff was pitted so badly the descaler gun went right through it. Unfortunately welding cast iron is a bit sketchy affair so I obtained a new rear axle housing and plan to transplant the internals into it. Can't wait to get to shim the damn thing...
Awesome tutorial and lots of good iņformation.
Thanks!
I would check to see about getting a cover to replace that one, I.kind of don*t trust that weld, because particles of the weld can get in the mechanism and further damage it, or like it has happened, with me, and a gas tank it had a pinhole, where gasoline or petrol would like seep out, after they had put on some kind of repair or weld that is why I am a bit cautious.
I would be great to replace it at some point. I know what you mean, you can't fully trust a quick bird poop weld onto rusty metal
@@Involvod have you tried a junkyard or scrapyard, to at least get a better cover,? , also I am surprised that when you brought Elsa for the inspection that the person or persons couldn*t notice that there is/was a leak , they being so strick, you had to find out on your own, sincerely what type persons who make these inspections, that if you have some rust or a light ain*t working, so they can fail the person right away, and yet they cannot pinpoint you to a leak,🙄🙄🙄🙄sorry but I would question them, you have to pay a fee, in order to get the license plate or the sticker that it uses?
Another great video on a "diff"erent place underneath your car. Never been there on my Volvo 240. What's actually the recommended change interval for the diff oil? Thanks. Keep up the good work.
Cheers! Good question, I just checked the Haynes manual and had a look online and couldn't get any solid info, one person recommended 50k miles. Personally i'd check the fluid and if it's dark drop it, mine wasn't the worst but as you might have seen the magnet on the drain plug was full and there was metal in the oil so was definitely due.
But the most important thing is the level not going too low, the 940 I had ran low before I got it, I topped it up straight away but it was forever noisy because of it..
Good job 👌🏼
What would you say has been the most difficult job in Elsa so far? I'll have to check that other guy's 740 out too!
The floors 😅 Everything else has been straightforward enough, that's the great thing about these! I'm really excited for DB 192's videos they are really well put together and that car needs alot of love
@@Involvod I’ve just finished watching it. I remember seeing his one listed on eBay recently
Sorry I watched Sids first this time :-)🤣Good that it was a relatively easy fix, I have never seen a rusted through diff case as normally they leak a bit to 'protect' themselves 🙂. Getting EP oil into diffs and gearboxes is a right pain as you can never pour it in from above!
Is that 'sensor' thing a sort of diff lock? Looked like it could be a solenoid that pushes on the splined bit you could see in the diff on the right?
That's only fair 😄 Without removing that suspension arm it would have been much harder.
It's a speed sensor, might be taking it out again soon as the speedometer doesn't work 🙄 But hopefully it's a broken gear inside the instrument cluster
@@Involvod Check the wiring between sensor and body. Like the wiring to the transmission solenoid, it loves to wear out as things flex and it gets blasted with road muck.
@Involvo'd : Did you only poor 1 litre (1 bottle) of oil into the diff? Is that enough?
No sorry, it took about 1.5 litres I think
@@Involvod Ah yes, that sounds about right, i missed the second bottle in the video :-)
Love you channel!
@@winandd8649 Thanks! 😃
cor blimey
The worst smell ever is old, burned up rear diff oil. I used to work on police crown vics in the US and by far the worst smell ever.
What a cool (or cool sounding) job! I know what you mean, this stuff smelt the same as the fresh fluid I put in, I was surprised!
@@Involvod was very cool, the whole time i worked there never got a ticket lol.
@@bluej511 🤣🤣🤣
Good stuff,,,but parts costing you more than the car...