There is the same mark on the shaft as on the nut. It's for torque purpose, being a fine thread there is a risk of over-tightening, so they mark it after the torque was reached!
Mark on nut might be for the tighten settings, sometimes it's specified a torque plus XX degrees of turn. The mark enables the extra degrees to be visually checked apon rotation.
Good to loosen the filler nut before dropping the fluid out. The fluid level is harder to figure when the car is lifted but a happy differential will forgive you for getting some extra fluid..fresh fluid. :))
Conventional wisdom would recommend a NON petroleum based lubricant for the pinion seal housing. Petroleum based lubricants can eat up the new seal but silicone based lubricants, adhesives, sealants generally last longer.
Great video. Only recommendation is that I would have torqued the pinon nut and not just used the impact gun. Supposedly the preload is very important and needs to be tightened to spec. Most likely you’ll be just fine.
Thank you for sharing the maintenance about Volvo. Very clear, informative and outstanding vids thanks a lot dude! I’m not a Volvo owner before and was thinking of buying a used one the P2(2008-2010) and the P3(2011-2013) model T4/T5, 2.0-2.5L Petrol Turbo version, was looking at S60/XC60/V70. What’s your thoughts and advices on that in-terms of long term reliability(engine/trans/electronics) and maintenance cost? What are the important things to look out for when buying a used Volvo? I’m living in the plc where all year round warm/hot (25-35 deg Celsius) and humidity (>90%). Thank you once again for awesome vids!!
Hello .. I enjoyed this useful interview while I was one of the owners of a Volvo S80 model 2008 Turbo 2.5 It was very impressive .. I have a request please can you help me to get company or garage numbers that provide machines and transmissions for Volvo cars and export them abroad?
I also used the driveshaft flange that is attached to the diff to drive in the new seal. Using that flange allows you to perfectly install the seal flush and not have to tap around the edges
I need to do my output shaft but this video was great. I almost think I should do this while I have my driveshaft out.
THank you for your thorough explanation done at a pace I can appreciate! ! I have watched your other videos and you are an unsung hero!
There is the same mark on the shaft as on the nut. It's for torque purpose, being a fine thread there is a risk of over-tightening, so they mark it after the torque was reached!
Job well done! It’s a nice 240 you got there, good that you are taking care of it. Have a good one from Sweden 🇸🇪
mannen av moment
Jaså du är här och smyger omkring 😄
@@StefanBergman var ju bara tvungen när jag såg ditt namn kung är du också på volvo :)
Mark on nut might be for the tighten settings, sometimes it's specified a torque plus XX degrees of turn. The mark enables the extra degrees to be visually checked apon rotation.
Most likely. thx
Great video, thanks! Big help when replacing the pinion seal on my 1967 Volvo Laplander. More or less the same design.
Good to loosen the filler nut before dropping the fluid out. The fluid level is harder to figure when the car is lifted but a happy differential will forgive you for getting some extra fluid..fresh fluid. :))
I have to do this on my 1989 244 DL. Very helpful video, great pace.
Nice Job,I would consider doing an Ice blasting under the car to make it look brand new and spray a fresh wax seal
I'm considering having that done to my Volvo someday.
Conventional wisdom would recommend a NON petroleum based lubricant for the pinion seal housing. Petroleum based lubricants can eat up the new seal but silicone based lubricants, adhesives, sealants generally last longer.
When reinstalling pinion flange, you’re supposed to set pinion preload by using a rotational torque gauge, and use a new crush sleeve.
Unfortunately, that method requires specialized tools and the entire differential needs to be taken apart.
Great video. Only recommendation is that I would have torqued the pinon nut and not just used the impact gun. Supposedly the preload is very important and needs to be tightened to spec. Most likely you’ll be just fine.
I have a feeling I will get in there and torque it properly. I will ask my father in law to make a tool. Thx for the feedback
Always recommend taking the diff oil fill bolt out first before anything. Worst thing ever if you can't refill your empty diff.
Finally a video! Good work👍
Awesome tutorial, very informative.
Always interesting videos
Did you ever change the timing belt, wp and multi belts on a D5 after MY 2011? It seams to be more difficult than the earlier models!?
Thank you for the video!
I like your channel. First to give you an up vote☝.
what type of brush were you using to clean around the drainage bolts?
Looking good!
Thank you for sharing the maintenance about Volvo. Very clear, informative and outstanding vids thanks a lot dude! I’m not a Volvo owner before and was thinking of buying a used one the P2(2008-2010) and the P3(2011-2013) model T4/T5, 2.0-2.5L Petrol Turbo version, was looking at S60/XC60/V70. What’s your thoughts and advices on that in-terms of long term reliability(engine/trans/electronics) and maintenance cost? What are the important things to look out for when buying a used Volvo? I’m living in the plc where all year round warm/hot (25-35 deg Celsius) and humidity (>90%). Thank you once again for awesome vids!!
You live in a place where it's warm all year-round. Lucky you!
good job done
Hello .. I enjoyed this useful interview while I was one of the owners of a Volvo S80 model 2008 Turbo 2.5 It was very impressive .. I have a request please can you help me to get company or garage numbers that provide machines and transmissions for Volvo cars and export them abroad?
I would use some oil, same as in differential, between shaft and seal...
Молодец !
Working with an axe on your car. Nice.
💯
You probly forgot cleaning and lubing the most important surface, namely the one that rotates with the shaft inside the seal!!!
Колосальная разница содержать эту вольву и современную xc70 ,на своем опыте говорю! На каком языке, легче вести канал??
Думаю на Русском. Родной язык все таки.
حلمي أن تكون لدي سيارة فولفو ولكن الامكانيات المادية ضعيفة
I used a seal puller when I did this job on my 245, and it ripped it right out
I also used the driveshaft flange that is attached to the diff to drive in the new seal. Using that flange allows you to perfectly install the seal flush and not have to tap around the edges