Add/remove washers: Sorry about that my friend, basically the idea is to get those metal pillow balls out. Once you’ve removed the tire, you’ll see the two red large hub nuts on the top and bottom of the knuckle. Remove both of those completely. Then if you look in the hole with a flashlight, you’ll actually see that those metal pillow balls have a pre-fabricated hex hole drilled into them. In essence all you need to do stick your hex wrench tool in there and you’ll find that you’ll be able to easily ratchet the pillow ball out of the end of the a arm. It does make your life a lot easier if you remove the bottom section of the shock by pulling the pin out, so that you’re not fighting with the Shock trying to push the whole arm assembly downward. With the shock detached at the bottom you can easily maneuver the to a arms upward in a flatten position which allows much easier access to get your hex tool into the end of that metal pillow ball. Ratchet the pillow ball completely out and then add your washer and reassemble. Hope that helps.
@@EastTactics 😁 it does, hoping i could adjust it quickly without removing the wheels I just put on but eeeh what are gonna do! I have my Typhon built for speed runs but I don't like the way its riding on half inside of the tire, I don't want them to wear unevenly. How many washer will move it to -1 or -2 ? Thnx for your help.
@@jamesrobinson4950 that makes sense, for speed runs you really would want the tires to be flat. As far as how many washers to use I guess that really just depends on how thick your washers are. Really any kind of washer will work metal or plastic. When you remove the pillow ball, whatever the diameter of the threads are you want the washer to slide over that. I do have this video here you can check out that is actually really beneficial as far as slop around your vehicle. But also in the description of this video it talks about a kit of washers you can pick up off Amazon. My guess is you probably find the right washers you need for your project and many others with this kit. ruclips.net/video/GD10n3zfAxk/видео.html
@@EastTactics Dude thanks a lot I'm learning everyday in this hobby, speed running is more fine tuning then I thought. It my first attempt at it, definitely different than jumping around at the bmx track 🤣
Once again EAST TACTICS is the superior expert leaving no unanswered questions and no nonsense.all pure technicians presition.really appreiciate what you do for us all.it makes the hobby so much easyer for the beginers as for others.u sir do things impecably well.big fan from quebec canada.keep up the awesome vids.peace out bro
Thanks again:) Sorry for the non helpful generic comments, but I feel I should leave something, and have no questions or anything helpful too add. Perfect videos
Sorry bout that my friend, basically the idea is to get those metal pillow balls out. Once you’ve removed the tire, you’ll see the two red large hub nuts on the top and bottom of the knuckle. Remove both of those completely. Then if you look in the hole with a flashlight, you’ll actually see that those metal pillow balls have a pre-fabricated hex hole drilled into them. In essence all you need to do stick your hex wrench tool in there and you’ll find that you’ll be able to easily ratchet the pillow ball out of the end of the a arm. It does make your life a lot easier if you remove the bottom section of the shock by pulling the pin out, so that you’re not fighting with the Shock trying to push the whole arm assembly downward. With the shock detached at the bottom you can easily maneuver the to a arms upward in a flatten position which allows much easier access to get your hex tool into the end of that metal pillow ball. Ratchet the pillow ball completely out and then add your washer and reassemble. Hope that helps.
To whom it may help: if you have a typhon 6s the camber shims are in the wrong place according to the manual. I'm running grp tires and you want to be close to zero, take the camber shim off the bottom (front axel) tighten it down, move that shim to the top. That will get you slightly below zero. You may or may not need to remove your tires, I didn't 👍
Hey man I always appreciate your videos but quick question....How would I get my steering both equal if my links are off. Like if you got a truck with one wheel toed out or in from the other? I have trouble getting it completely lined up if one side is off from the other to then be able to adjust toe on both sides. If I'm explaining it correctly lol.
The steering horn on the Sergio has 25 teeth I believe. After you removed it turn your vehicle on let your service center itself naturally. Then replace the servo horn so that Both the left and right tires share an equal amount of camber and toe.
more than likely the damaged stems from your bulkhead and hinge pins into your arms. Potentially resulting in a shift in the entire arm assembly. If you want, you can email me a short video showcasing everything around the issue. Info@easttactics.com
Hey East, I understand for bashing u want toe out, but when trying to go as straight as possible to hit a ramp at high speed, would you want zero toe to slight toe in?
Is it a basher still? Or are you now talking about a speed runner. Your basher should still track straight at high speeds so long as you got the steering trim set correctly. But if your talking a speed runner car, then ya your camber and toe will be more straight.
@@EastTactics still a basher for sure. On another note, I noticed you never did a video for the hot racing steering blocks. Are you satisfied with them?
Are you referring to the hub knuckles. Yes… if you break/crack your composite ones… they are an upgrade that will stop it from happening again. Hate when those pillow balls pop out. Thing of the past with the hot racing upgrade
Same. As a complete newbie, just opening the box of my Granite, I was concerned with the negative camber and toe in of the rear tires. And toe out of the front tires.
When swapping to dboot hoons do you think adjusting it to flat would be better? Making a basher a street truck haha just wondering cause the hoons will wear out on the sides quickly with the camber set to stock its an arrma granite
For a street racer, you”lol want to adjust a lot of things, that being one of them yes. I’m not sure all the details of how to set up camber and toe for the racer class though.
Me when i run my exb off ten ground it shakes a bit and it feels like the gearmesh is floping arround. I ordered a new motor and its the firma 2050kv this time. My motor was burned out of the box and i ran it liek that for months😑. Im just cursed. I wasted 80$ for nothing i hope the firms motor is better didnt want to buy another blc 2050kv. Im still pretty pissed that i cant enjoy my exb that cogging just gave me drivetrain issue and stress. I thinks its a good thing to balance my tires
Why is it toe-out on the front axle, not toe-in? Isn't toe-in helping to go in a straight line, which is always a bit of a weakness with the short wheelbase of these cars???
Toe in (or more straight) might be ideal for speed runners and other more "on road" rigs. The toe out in the front is ideal for bashers, and huge air Rigs. Most of it has to do with both landing as well as rought off road terrain romping.
Awesome but also can we not put in a smaller than the main pillow all hex and adjust with a smaller hex🧐🤯 so this would not work with fish wheels but spiked wheels if u follow
From what I understand both camber and toe have an impact on turning performance. Sonsince you are drag racing and going straight. I would assume zero camber and zero toe would be ideal. This guy does a good job explaining how camber and toe impact the vehicle. More near the end of his vid ruclips.net/video/7Orge2CwLPs/видео.html
On my 6s Kraton, when I angle tge rear wheels, it creates play in tge drive shaft to the point that the come out an ruin the diff cup. Happens most when car is the air.
@@EastTactics yeah, was the first thing I thought of. Gone through 3 diff cups on the left rear now. Somebody on Arrma Forum suggested upgrading to CVDs, so might try that
That was helpful bro l didnt know that turnbuckles go clockwise just looking at them l always would get it mixed up lm waiting on titanium turnbuckles so l will give it a go;
@@EastTactics lm looking to decrease weight on both k6s with anything titanium; They are both completely beefcake 1 has max6 combo and everything alloy the other is also completely alloy with xlx esc poseidon 1700 kv . They are tuff but extremely heavy for jumps 😉 My next rc will be the new 48.3 2.0 from Tekno some friends swear on them even as bashers they are race bred so steering is on another lever and all parts are cnc machined 7075 "extremely light"and literally float in the air 😅 Should have it by Christmas
@@MuscleAKAOzzy what hearing are you running with that 1700kv motor? My 1700 motor gets pretty hot on a 19t pinion on 4s, wonder if that is normal and if it runs cooler on 6s.
Hey mate.im new to this hobby.i have the old v2 talion that i buy from my friend and also got a new v4 kraton.My question is are the diff (diff case,spiral, etc)same between the v2 talion and v4 kraton?or i should search for diffrent part number.Big thanks!
I think they are the same, parts wise, but I've never seen V2 components. So just double check. Maybe get them side by side and eyeball the comparisons. Also I do know the V2 and V3 diff cups themselves for the most part were not shimmed correctly. Arrma started shimming the diffs with the V4 versions. I Think you will find tho that the parts are the same. All my vids have a link in the description to "Arrma V4 parts" pulled together in one spot on Amazon, might be helpful for you. Good luck my friend, always happy to help.
Their is not now nor has their ever been one correct setting for suspension or alignment. How did you come to your magic one setting for all surfaces and condition's setting?
hey brother, I feel I tried to make it pretty clear in the video that these settings are specific for a “basher” which implies the arena most driven in …is off-road, coupled with a large amount of jumping. For someone wanting to adjust these setting for say … a speed runner, things would be completely different. Rest assured, I didn’t just makes these setting up, they are in fact the recommended approximates for a “basher”. From factory, the rig… (if shipped correctly) will displays these settings.
I’ve got my air pods in and just qued it up. It’s not that bad, it’s not drowning out my voice. I would suggest just turning it down. But your frustration is noted none the less. Thx for watching, hope it was at least informative.
Hey sorry about that, to remove those washers you simply need to remove the hub nuts, After taking the tire off. The hub nuts can be really finicky especially when putting them back in, they tend to want to Miss thread. So watch this video to help you really manage those hub nuts in and out properly. ruclips.net/video/MtCNn-Qc-Dc/видео.html So once the top and the bottom hub nuts have been removed look closely or shine a flashlight inside you’ll notice that you can actually gain access to the pillow balls themselves. Believe it or not at the end of the pillow balls there is a hex hole, by squeezing your shocks a little bit or removing them to make your arms parallel to the ground, you can gain access to those pillow ball Holes easily with your hex driver. Simply remove the pillow balls to gain access to adding and removing washers. Reinstall using the same method. Again being really careful when you put those large hub nuts back in because they can drive people crazy when they are miss threaded.
Unfortunately there is no specific way to adjust of the toe in the rear. It’s all contingent on the way the rear a arms mount to the Back end. By the design of these bashers from Arrma, The rear a arms actually provide the needed toe in your rear end automatically. If like me you find that your toe is off, It’s likely due to a bad landing that has tweaked it and bent something in the rear end.
If you have an Arrma Vehicle, Use a small wrench and turn the front turnbuckles counter clockwise, this will extend the length of the turnbuckle and create a toe in effect for your front tires. Please note however (as the video points out) typically for bashers you want your front tires to toe out, rather then toe in. But if you want to experiment with 'Toe in", thats how you'd do it.
East Tactics , thanks. Good advice as always. But when I lengthen the toe link, it reduces my turning radius? I notice the wheel base turns a wider end point with shorter turn buckle. Does this happen to u?...this is aside from the question on toe-in/out.
Awesome! Thanks for subbing I really appreciate that. As far as your turn radius yeah I believe that if you toe in, this will slightly reduce your turn radius. And when you have toe out (which is what is recommended for your Kraton) it will actually help you turn a bit sharper. At least from what I understand. What is the reason why you want to toe in?
I'm sorry, but your rears are not at 91*. 1* is pretty small, like what you see at 14:05, that is about what 1* actually looks like, or you will shred tires much faster than they otherwise should be wearing. I cannot justify trashing set after set of tires running as much camber and toe as you are showing. After just a dozen battery runs on my Vortek, the rears had ZERO tread left on the insides due to camber being too far from the factory. The non-adjustable toe angle in the rears is now causing me troubles with aftermarket tires as they are getting 'rolled' to the inside as the car pushes the tire a bit at an angle. Yes, Toe and Camber are things that help performance, but they are not needed to the extremes these things are set to out of the box. I'm really not looking forward to buying a fresh set of tires every 2 months...yeesh... (FYI, auto makers like to set the camber from the factory way in because it gives better handling, so new customers say "oh this car handles great!", at the expense of tire wear, i imagine RC cars are the same way)
I see your point, keep in mind though that the range is 1 1/2 To 2 1/2 degrees past 90%. And if you were to go to 93° it wouldn’t be that big a deal. Especially for a basher. Now granted I agree with you if you’re racing on the roads are concrete as majority of your running then I too would shy away from going 93° and be more like 91°. But yeah if you look at a 93° angle it’s pretty significant. But you’re probably right mine were more closely getting near that 93 or 94° area. I’ve never had any issues at all with wear and such. Probably because 90% of my bashing is on loose dirt gravel etc. Thanks for your comment and watching my video. 👍😎
@@EastTactics Yeah 90% of mine is hard pack and gravel. I don't have any good loose dirt to run on around me. I also agree, if all you are doing is loose dirt than tire wear is much less of an issue. But after just maybe a dozen batteries, we noticed significant wear on the inside edges. Im trying to find a good set of similar sized road tires so we can do some races in the large parking lot behind my house. Until then i avoid doing much on pavement because these tires are not designed for it.
You over complicated a super simple and elementary adjustment that any RC'er should know how to do from the time the out double A's in their radios. Yikes
I wish you would have shown the process of adding the washer to adjust the camber in the front 😕
Add/remove washers:
Sorry about that my friend, basically the idea is to get those metal pillow balls out. Once you’ve removed the tire, you’ll see the two red large hub nuts on the top and bottom of the knuckle. Remove both of those completely. Then if you look in the hole with a flashlight, you’ll actually see that those metal pillow balls have a pre-fabricated hex hole drilled into them. In essence all you need to do stick your hex wrench tool in there and you’ll find that you’ll be able to easily ratchet the pillow ball out of the end of the a arm. It does make your life a lot easier if you remove the bottom section of the shock by pulling the pin out, so that you’re not fighting with the Shock trying to push the whole arm assembly downward. With the shock detached at the bottom you can easily maneuver the to a arms upward in a flatten position which allows much easier access to get your hex tool into the end of that metal pillow ball. Ratchet the pillow ball completely out and then add your washer and reassemble. Hope that helps.
@@EastTactics 😁 it does, hoping i could adjust it quickly without removing the wheels I just put on but eeeh what are gonna do! I have my Typhon built for speed runs but I don't like the way its riding on half inside of the tire, I don't want them to wear unevenly. How many washer will move it to -1 or -2 ? Thnx for your help.
@@EastTactics oh and what size are the washers or where do I get them?
@@jamesrobinson4950 that makes sense, for speed runs you really would want the tires to be flat. As far as how many washers to use I guess that really just depends on how thick your washers are. Really any kind of washer will work metal or plastic. When you remove the pillow ball, whatever the diameter of the threads are you want the washer to slide over that. I do have this video here you can check out that is actually really beneficial as far as slop around your vehicle. But also in the description of this video it talks about a kit of washers you can pick up off Amazon. My guess is you probably find the right washers you need for your project and many others with this kit.
ruclips.net/video/GD10n3zfAxk/видео.html
@@EastTactics Dude thanks a lot I'm learning everyday in this hobby, speed running is more fine tuning then I thought. It my first attempt at it, definitely different than jumping around at the bmx track 🤣
If it gets worse go the other way 👍count your even turns for each side and look at the threads , take a picture
Once again EAST TACTICS is the superior expert leaving no unanswered questions and no nonsense.all pure technicians presition.really appreiciate what you do for us all.it makes the hobby so much easyer for the beginers as for others.u sir do things impecably well.big fan from quebec canada.keep up the awesome vids.peace out bro
agree 100%
Waking up and reading a complement like this really makes my day. Thank you so much brother!
It also leaves your car setup badly.
Yes . I have this issue on a new one . Thanks. I ll use a framing square and account for the jiggle
Thanks again:)
Sorry for the non helpful generic comments, but I feel I should leave something, and have no questions or anything helpful too add.
Perfect videos
Just being told my videos have been helpful makes my day. I really do appreciate the comments
Just used this on my car. Wowwwwwww. Thank you so much. So helpful
Another great video, def. Helped me. I'm gonna check out my camber and I like the plexi glass trick. I 👍🏽- I have the V5 version
Very nice video very helpful thanks Been watching you for years very knowledgeable you’re the man
Thx Ronnie!
Thanks Champ!!
Do you have any video on Granite camber adjustments
I don't. Sry
Do a video like this for a Granite please 😅 Thanks Champ
Good explanation bit you never showed the actual adjusting
Sorry bout that my friend, basically the idea is to get those metal pillow balls out. Once you’ve removed the tire, you’ll see the two red large hub nuts on the top and bottom of the knuckle. Remove both of those completely. Then if you look in the hole with a flashlight, you’ll actually see that those metal pillow balls have a pre-fabricated hex hole drilled into them. In essence all you need to do stick your hex wrench tool in there and you’ll find that you’ll be able to easily ratchet the pillow ball out of the end of the a arm. It does make your life a lot easier if you remove the bottom section of the shock by pulling the pin out, so that you’re not fighting with the Shock trying to push the whole arm assembly downward. With the shock detached at the bottom you can easily maneuver the to a arms upward in a flatten position which allows much easier access to get your hex tool into the end of that metal pillow ball. Ratchet the pillow ball completely out and then add your washer and reassemble. Hope that helps.
I need them Al loo min e um wheel hubs 🦅
Thanks, this was very helpful.
Hello, how many mm are the inside front turnbuckles in mm? So inside inside for the toe-out. Thank you very much from 🇦🇹
Great informative video......many thanks 👍👍👍
🙏…🤜🤛
Superb video! I really like your setup since it reminded me of mine! I have all M2C racing parts on mine and I love Mitchs Bladderles shock cap kit
To whom it may help: if you have a typhon 6s the camber shims are in the wrong place according to the manual. I'm running grp tires and you want to be close to zero, take the camber shim off the bottom (front axel) tighten it down, move that shim to the top. That will get you slightly below zero. You may or may not need to remove your tires, I didn't 👍
great thks.
You bet!
Very useful video dialed in my arrma 4x4 blx
I adjusted a camel toe last night have you ever dealt with those
Ty for the vid. the 🤜🤛
Hey man I always appreciate your videos but quick question....How would I get my steering both equal if my links are off. Like if you got a truck with one wheel toed out or in from the other? I have trouble getting it completely lined up if one side is off from the other to then be able to adjust toe on both sides. If I'm explaining it correctly lol.
The steering horn on the Sergio has 25 teeth I believe. After you removed it turn your vehicle on let your service center itself naturally. Then replace the servo horn so that Both the left and right tires share an equal amount of camber and toe.
On my rear wheels on the vorteks, one side is toed in more than the other. I can't find a way to adjust this. Any suggestions?
more than likely the damaged stems from your bulkhead and hinge pins into your arms. Potentially resulting in a shift in the entire arm assembly. If you want, you can email me a short video showcasing everything around the issue.
Info@easttactics.com
@@EastTactics wow thanks, I'll follow up soon. Much appreciated!
Hey East, I understand for bashing u want toe out, but when trying to go as straight as possible to hit a ramp at high speed, would you want zero toe to slight toe in?
Is it a basher still?
Or are you now talking about a speed runner.
Your basher should still track straight at high speeds so long as you got the steering trim set correctly.
But if your talking a speed runner car, then ya your camber and toe will be more straight.
@@EastTactics still a basher for sure. On another note, I noticed you never did a video for the hot racing steering blocks. Are you satisfied with them?
Are you referring to the hub knuckles. Yes… if you break/crack your composite ones… they are an upgrade that will stop it from happening again. Hate when those pillow balls pop out. Thing of the past with the hot racing upgrade
Thank you for that information. Any chance you could do a video on the complete RPM
toe in/toe out gauge process please.
🤔
Explaination is very much appreciated, I'm new to hobby rc and was very concerned about the rear toe angle on my truck right out of the box
Awesome! Glad you found my channel. Feel free to hit me up anytime if you have any questions.
Same. As a complete newbie, just opening the box of my Granite, I was concerned with the negative camber and toe in of the rear tires. And toe out of the front tires.
Is there a setup station for this?
Not that I know of
When swapping to dboot hoons do you think adjusting it to flat would be better? Making a basher a street truck haha just wondering cause the hoons will wear out on the sides quickly with the camber set to stock its an arrma granite
For a street racer, you”lol want to adjust a lot of things, that being one of them yes. I’m not sure all the details of how to set up camber and toe for the racer class though.
Me when i run my exb off ten ground it shakes a bit and it feels like the gearmesh is floping arround. I ordered a new motor and its the firma 2050kv this time. My motor was burned out of the box and i ran it liek that for months😑. Im just cursed. I wasted 80$ for nothing i hope the firms motor is better didnt want to buy another blc 2050kv. Im still pretty pissed that i cant enjoy my exb that cogging just gave me drivetrain issue and stress. I thinks its a good thing to balance my tires
Why is it toe-out on the front axle, not toe-in? Isn't toe-in helping to go in a straight line, which is always a bit of a weakness with the short wheelbase of these cars???
Toe in (or more straight) might be ideal for speed runners and other more "on road" rigs. The toe out in the front is ideal for bashers, and huge air Rigs. Most of it has to do with both landing as well as rought off road terrain romping.
My camber seems nuts on my granite blx v3, but also don't know what's good or bad lol
What is this video able to get you some answers? Let me know
Awesome but also can we not put in a smaller than the main pillow all hex and adjust with a smaller hex🧐🤯 so this would not work with fish wheels but spiked wheels if u follow
I’m trying really hard... but being honest...I don’t follow. 😝
You lost me at fish wheels.
so is this same set up for drag racing street cars too
No, this is for bashers
@@EastTactics ok idea for a new video ,, i could use the help, thankx guys keep up the great work
From what I understand both camber and toe have an impact on turning performance. Sonsince you are drag racing and going straight. I would assume zero camber and zero toe would be ideal.
This guy does a good job explaining how camber and toe impact the vehicle. More near the end of his vid
ruclips.net/video/7Orge2CwLPs/видео.html
Frame must be bent? right?
Ideally, no
On my 6s Kraton, when I angle tge rear wheels, it creates play in tge drive shaft to the point that the come out an ruin the diff cup. Happens most when car is the air.
I’ve heard of people having this issue with the front end, but never with the rear. Is your droop set correctly?
@@EastTactics yeah, was the first thing I thought of. Gone through 3 diff cups on the left rear now. Somebody on Arrma Forum suggested upgrading to CVDs, so might try that
That was helpful bro l didnt know that turnbuckles go clockwise just looking at them l always would get it mixed up lm waiting on titanium turnbuckles so l will give it a go;
Thanks again for the suggestion for making the video. Glad I could help. Those titanium turnbuckles sound amazing!
@@EastTactics lm looking to decrease weight on both k6s with anything titanium;
They are both completely beefcake 1 has max6 combo and everything alloy the other is also completely alloy with xlx esc poseidon 1700 kv .
They are tuff but extremely heavy for jumps 😉
My next rc will be the new 48.3 2.0 from Tekno some friends swear on them even as bashers they are race bred so steering is on another lever and all parts are cnc machined 7075 "extremely light"and literally float in the air 😅 Should have it by Christmas
@@MuscleAKAOzzy what hearing are you running with that 1700kv motor?
My 1700 motor gets pretty hot on a 19t pinion on 4s, wonder if that is normal and if it runs cooler on 6s.
@@jotcw81 do you have a poseidon 1717 1700kv?
I'll have to try this on the BRCC. The turnbuckles don't have that notch, but I bet they all turn the same way too. Great vid.
Hey mate.im new to this hobby.i have the old v2 talion that i buy from my friend and also got a new v4 kraton.My question is are the diff (diff case,spiral, etc)same between the v2 talion and v4 kraton?or i should search for diffrent part number.Big thanks!
I think they are the same, parts wise, but I've never seen V2 components. So just double check. Maybe get them side by side and eyeball the comparisons. Also I do know the V2 and V3 diff cups themselves for the most part were not shimmed correctly. Arrma started shimming the diffs with the V4 versions. I Think you will find tho that the parts are the same.
All my vids have a link in the description to "Arrma V4 parts" pulled together in one spot on Amazon, might be helpful for you. Good luck my friend, always happy to help.
Bro what body post type u use at front side???
Are you referring to these?
ruclips.net/video/OcQRt1bpwA0/видео.html
I lost my washer in one of the from wheels. No need to buy new washers instead of the lost ones. Arrma Outkast 6S.
Their is not now nor has their ever been one correct setting for suspension or alignment. How did you come to your magic one setting for all surfaces and condition's setting?
hey brother, I feel I tried to make it pretty clear in the video that these settings are specific for a “basher” which implies the arena most driven in …is off-road, coupled with a large amount of jumping. For someone wanting to adjust these setting for say … a speed runner, things would be completely different. Rest assured, I didn’t just makes these setting up, they are in fact the recommended approximates for a “basher”. From factory, the rig… (if shipped correctly) will displays these settings.
Great mod tips.. but why is the music always LOUD AS FUCK !?!?
I’ve got my air pods in and just qued it up. It’s not that bad, it’s not drowning out my voice. I would suggest just turning it down.
But your frustration is noted none the less.
Thx for watching, hope it was at least informative.
How do you take it apart to remove or add a washer? You point at them but do not show how to add or subtract a washer.
Hey sorry about that, to remove those washers you simply need to remove the hub nuts, After taking the tire off. The hub nuts can be really finicky especially when putting them back in, they tend to want to Miss thread. So watch this video to help you really manage those hub nuts in and out properly.
ruclips.net/video/MtCNn-Qc-Dc/видео.html
So once the top and the bottom hub nuts have been removed look closely or shine a flashlight inside you’ll notice that you can actually gain access to the pillow balls themselves. Believe it or not at the end of the pillow balls there is a hex hole, by squeezing your shocks a little bit or removing them to make your arms parallel to the ground, you can gain access to those pillow ball Holes easily with your hex driver. Simply remove the pillow balls to gain access to adding and removing washers.
Reinstall using the same method. Again being really careful when you put those large hub nuts back in because they can drive people crazy when they are miss threaded.
Where did you get that wing?
Do you mean this?
amzn.to/3uRNXsb
@@EastTactics thank you
Any idea how to get adjustable toe in the rear?
Unfortunately there is no specific way to adjust of the toe in the rear. It’s all contingent on the way the rear a arms mount to the Back end. By the design of these bashers from Arrma, The rear a arms actually provide the needed toe in your rear end automatically. If like me you find that your toe is off, It’s likely due to a bad landing that has tweaked it and bent something in the rear end.
@@EastTactics dang, that's too bad. Was hoping there was a way to adjust it. Thank you for feedback 👍
I'm sorry that was the most confusing explanation or camber toe adjustment I ever seen
My bad
@@EastTactics all good you just tried to explain as much as possible while unintentionally making it harder to understand.
@@artificialdopamine6542 ya... I can see that, now re watching it. live n learn I suppose... thanks for the tip. will keep it in mind for future vids.
@@EastTactics all good, lost in translation comes to mind hah. Keep up the work on the vids bud
Hi bro, how do I adjust the front wheels so that it is Toe-in slightly?
If you have an Arrma Vehicle, Use a small wrench and turn the front turnbuckles counter clockwise, this will extend the length of the turnbuckle and create a toe in effect for your front tires.
Please note however (as the video points out) typically for bashers you want your front tires to toe out, rather then toe in.
But if you want to experiment with 'Toe in", thats how you'd do it.
East Tactics , thanks. Good advice as always. But when I lengthen the toe link, it reduces my turning radius? I notice the wheel base turns a wider end point with shorter turn buckle. Does this happen to u?...this is aside from the question on toe-in/out.
East Tactics , oh yes, I am working on a kraton 6s. Subscribed to ur channel btw....great info as always
Awesome! Thanks for subbing I really appreciate that. As far as your turn radius yeah I believe that if you toe in, this will slightly reduce your turn radius. And when you have toe out (which is what is recommended for your Kraton) it will actually help you turn a bit sharper. At least from what I understand. What is the reason why you want to toe in?
East Tactics actually is the other way round. When I shorten the turnbuckle, it has more turning radius , sharper turn. But I will toe out, no?
I'm sorry, but your rears are not at 91*. 1* is pretty small, like what you see at 14:05, that is about what 1* actually looks like, or you will shred tires much faster than they otherwise should be wearing. I cannot justify trashing set after set of tires running as much camber and toe as you are showing. After just a dozen battery runs on my Vortek, the rears had ZERO tread left on the insides due to camber being too far from the factory. The non-adjustable toe angle in the rears is now causing me troubles with aftermarket tires as they are getting 'rolled' to the inside as the car pushes the tire a bit at an angle.
Yes, Toe and Camber are things that help performance, but they are not needed to the extremes these things are set to out of the box. I'm really not looking forward to buying a fresh set of tires every 2 months...yeesh...
(FYI, auto makers like to set the camber from the factory way in because it gives better handling, so new customers say "oh this car handles great!", at the expense of tire wear, i imagine RC cars are the same way)
I see your point, keep in mind though that the range is 1 1/2 To 2 1/2 degrees past 90%. And if you were to go to 93° it wouldn’t be that big a deal. Especially for a basher. Now granted I agree with you if you’re racing on the roads are concrete as majority of your running then I too would shy away from going 93° and be more like 91°. But yeah if you look at a 93° angle it’s pretty significant. But you’re probably right mine were more closely getting near that 93 or 94° area. I’ve never had any issues at all with wear and such. Probably because 90% of my bashing is on loose dirt gravel etc.
Thanks for your comment and watching my video. 👍😎
@@EastTactics Yeah 90% of mine is hard pack and gravel. I don't have any good loose dirt to run on around me. I also agree, if all you are doing is loose dirt than tire wear is much less of an issue. But after just maybe a dozen batteries, we noticed significant wear on the inside edges.
Im trying to find a good set of similar sized road tires so we can do some races in the large parking lot behind my house. Until then i avoid doing much on pavement because these tires are not designed for it.
You over complicated a super simple and elementary adjustment that any RC'er should know how to do from the time the out double A's in their radios. Yikes
You’d be surprised how many people don’t understand this topic. And like the overkill explanation.
Everybody's gotta start somewhere. Ppl go pick up an RTR not knowing the full extent of what they're getting into all the time.
Hello, how many mm are the inside front turnbuckles in mm? So inside inside for the toe-out. Thank you very much from 🇦🇹
you want the total length from tip to tip meaning both composite turnbuckle rod end, the bar, and the other rod end. To be a total of 135 mm in length
@@EastTactics Thx 👍