Can say ,being a luxe I definitely recommend a better oil cooler forsure. Allso Maybe a better oil pan or atleast the z1 aluminum shroud. Great vid as always fam. Str8 facts. More power is harder on everything.
2nd that. Just had the z1 25bar oil cooler and switched to 5w30 on my luxe. Dropped avg oil temps 20-25 degrees. Thats in this nasty heat too. Z1 undershroud has saved my oil pan a couple of times. Z1 HX gives me piece of mind with the JB4
@@Koger33 you must live out west because up here in the rust belt East Coast then potholes will eat that splash cover. I’ve been through 3 and still cracked my oil pan
45k gets you built engine closed deck block 7-10k for a built trans I have to disagree with you on reliability issues the reason most have reliability issues is because they cheaped out I’ve been built since 91k miles car makes 816/699 the car has 112k miles and it’s been super reliable I abuse it day in and day out always driving around at 30psi with 0 issues just oil change and keep it going
I do wanna say this is in regards of people as you cheaping out. Also doing this on. stock internals and always trying to push to higher levels because we know uncharted territory will always yield new problems
A clarifying video regarding main heat exchanger and front mount heat exchanger combo would be great on how efficient the cooling is during summer heat
It sucks. You're going to need an auxiliary coolant reservoir or go with a interchiller for stable temps. With the Aux tank, you're looking at 110-120F on a 98F day with highway driving. With the interchiller, you're barely break 70F while beating on it at the track in the same weather.
@@alexnor9 Currently I'm running AAM heat exchanger along with Z1 secondary pump. Temps are around 110-120 right now in this 90° temperature. During pulls I can get up to 135 charge air & charge air coolant temps. So your saying if I add a Frozen Boost or BMS front mount it wouldn't help?
@Miclyricz If you're already have a heat exchanger, adding an additional one isn't going to help you that much. What you're doing is adding more coolant capacity to help with the recovery times between pulls, so buying a larger reservoir like AMS or PLM with the Z1/AMS auxiliarycoolantreservoir would be a better option. My original setup for my FBO E85 Q60RS was the AMS Heatexchanger with their Auxiliary coolant reservoir(the one that is installed in the passenger side fender). But I had high charge air coolant temps between runs and had to use ice bags on the intercoolers to help with recovery temps and preventing heatsoak. Save your money and buy an FI Interchiller instead. It'll give you the best option in terms of keeping your charge air coolant temps low because it'll be using refrigerant to cool the coolant for your intercoolers. I decided to do that setup because I am upgrading to Z1 VRX70B turbos this fall. With the additional heat that is going to be generated, the Interchiller will help prevent heatsoak. Check out Zillafullboost. He is currently running the same Interchiller, and it helped him with his temps as well.
@@BADMAN-SJ Unless you’re just directly stealing “VR30BadMan” content from TikTok I had already asked you on TikTok what may have caused the issue and you answered it by talking about what causes “Low Oil Pressure” and went on to explain what the Solenoid does and how it works
@@QTakeOva ah u were the guy with the misfire/exhaust valve/crankshaft pos sensor timing problem? Yeah theirs +100 different things tht can cause low oil pressure tho that’s just the popular stuff on this platform. You made any progress?
@@QTakeOva I have a writeup on my website specifically discussing the oil pressure control solenoid. A pourous block won't cause low oil pressure. A pourous block will cause coolant to literally leak out of the side of the block behind the engine mount brackets. The solenoid being stuck open will cause a low oil pressure condition at high rpm starving the bearings of lubrication causing a bearing to seize and spin.
@@BADMAN-SJ there aren’t any yet. 23 introduced the newest version of the block. You can tell by the rear of the block as it no longer has the plate sealed and bolted to it but now it’s just a bare spot.
Can say ,being a luxe I definitely recommend a better oil cooler forsure. Allso Maybe a better oil pan or atleast the z1 aluminum shroud. Great vid as always fam. Str8 facts. More power is harder on everything.
2nd that. Just had the z1 25bar oil cooler and switched to 5w30 on my luxe. Dropped avg oil temps 20-25 degrees. Thats in this nasty heat too. Z1 undershroud has saved my oil pan a couple of times. Z1 HX gives me piece of mind with the JB4
@@Koger33 you must live out west because up here in the rust belt East Coast then potholes will eat that splash cover. I’ve been through 3 and still cracked my oil pan
45k gets you built engine closed deck block 7-10k for a built trans
I have to disagree with you on reliability issues the reason most have reliability issues is because they cheaped out
I’ve been built since 91k miles car makes 816/699 the car has 112k miles and it’s been super reliable I abuse it day in and day out always driving around at 30psi with 0 issues just oil change and keep it going
My closed deck 3.1 with ported heads/cams doing my own assembly cost less than 20k including new cam gears, timing chain, and oil pump.
You know I can’t build no engine brother 😂
@@codecaine5349 I have faith!!
I do wanna say this is in regards of people as you cheaping out. Also doing this on. stock internals and always trying to push to higher levels because we know uncharted territory will always yield new problems
🙏🙏🙏 great great info brother... I've been thinking of making more power and all this common sense info for the inexperienced is stacks
Thanks
A clarifying video regarding main heat exchanger and front mount heat exchanger combo would be great on how efficient the cooling is during summer heat
It sucks. You're going to need an auxiliary coolant reservoir or go with a interchiller for stable temps. With the Aux tank, you're looking at 110-120F on a 98F day with highway driving. With the interchiller, you're barely break 70F while beating on it at the track in the same weather.
@@alexnor9 Currently I'm running AAM heat exchanger along with Z1 secondary pump. Temps are around 110-120 right now in this 90° temperature. During pulls I can get up to 135 charge air & charge air coolant temps. So your saying if I add a Frozen Boost or BMS front mount it wouldn't help?
@Miclyricz If you're already have a heat exchanger, adding an additional one isn't going to help you that much. What you're doing is adding more coolant capacity to help with the recovery times between pulls, so buying a larger reservoir like AMS or PLM with the Z1/AMS auxiliarycoolantreservoir would be a better option. My original setup for my FBO E85 Q60RS was the AMS Heatexchanger with their Auxiliary coolant reservoir(the one that is installed in the passenger side fender). But I had high charge air coolant temps between runs and had to use ice bags on the intercoolers to help with recovery temps and preventing heatsoak.
Save your money and buy an FI Interchiller instead. It'll give you the best option in terms of keeping your charge air coolant temps low because it'll be using refrigerant to cool the coolant for your intercoolers. I decided to do that setup because I am upgrading to Z1 VRX70B turbos this fall. With the additional heat that is going to be generated, the Interchiller will help prevent heatsoak. Check out Zillafullboost. He is currently running the same Interchiller, and it helped him with his temps as well.
@@alexnor9 For sure, that sounds like the best option
@@alexnor9 Appreciate the info bro 💯
I myself just had an engine go out on me due to “low oil pressure” which caused Rod knock.
I’m guessing either porous block or oil pump control solenoid being stuck
@@BADMAN-SJ Unless you’re just directly stealing “VR30BadMan” content from TikTok I had already asked you on TikTok what may have caused the issue and you answered it by talking about what causes “Low Oil Pressure” and went on to explain what the Solenoid does and how it works
@@QTakeOva ah u were the guy with the misfire/exhaust valve/crankshaft pos sensor timing problem? Yeah theirs +100 different things tht can cause low oil pressure tho that’s just the popular stuff on this platform. You made any progress?
@@QTakeOva I have a writeup on my website specifically discussing the oil pressure control solenoid. A pourous block won't cause low oil pressure. A pourous block will cause coolant to literally leak out of the side of the block behind the engine mount brackets. The solenoid being stuck open will cause a low oil pressure condition at high rpm starving the bearings of lubrication causing a bearing to seize and spin.
Talk about the major mechanical revisions of the 2023+ VR30 I can’t find no information on it!
@@BADMAN-SJ there aren’t any yet. 23 introduced the newest version of the block. You can tell by the rear of the block as it no longer has the plate sealed and bolted to it but now it’s just a bare spot.