Thank you so much for this video. My Thermador dishwasher is older and a little different (it was made before Bosch bought Thermador) but this video gave me all the help I needed to replace the heating element - after a Bosch technician and Bosch customer service told me it could not be fixed. I had a little trouble bc of the tightness of the rubber gasket and O-rings so I used a little dish soap and it worked great. Thank you so much for this and all your great videos and your great website. You have saved me so much money over the years and also allowed me to repair and keep using great older appliances rather than adding more trash to the environment and buying new lower quality appliances that are designed to fail.
Just replaced this unit on a UK Siemens dishwasher and this video was very helpful - thanks! Problem was poor washing and the lower arm did not rotate. UK unit had far more wires and connectors so trickier than the video. The wiring loom was very tight and other than the spade terminals that attach to the end of the heater unit (5:58 in the video) all the other electrical connections, including the loom multi-connectors on the right hand side of the unit in the base had to be released before the assembly could be pulled from the base. I also had to take off the earth spade connector at the bottom of the rear panel to allow the assembly to be pulled fully from the base. Take lots of photos before pulling wires! Reassembled and turned on and could not hear any water entering the unit and the pump kept running when the door was opened. More searching found the problem to be the float level switch on the left side of the unit. Took the left panel off and saw the red plastic float stick had tripped the black plastic micro-switch level and it had stuck. Freed that up and then tried the machine with panel off and could hear water and now back in action.
I can't thank you enough! I won't say it was as easy as in the video, it was pretty tough, my wiring did not allow me to remove everything from the base as shown so it was a bit like keyhole surgery but your instructions told me what to look for even though I had to do some things in different order because of inaccessibility. As a UK model there are also some differences, particularly the power supply. I knocked the float sensor so when I had completely finished and switched on the machine, it just hummed. After resolving that, the machine leaked. I went back inside and checked everything, I suspect the pump was not attached securely. Easier to test the machine before replacing the front and side covers to check these things. This video clip has saved my £175 and taught me a lot. I am a complete beginner and have never attempted to repair an appliance before.
Symptoms -- not heating water, dishes come out wet. After replacing the heating element / pump assembly, I determined it was not the problem in my case. (Video is very good by the way). The problem was in the "control board", most likely the heater relay. I replaced the control board (cost about $130) but probably could have just replaced the relay. I couldn't find any videos outlining the steps to replace the board so documented the steps in case anyone else needs to do it. Time required s about 60 minutes. Control board replacement on SHE68R55UV model Dishwasher turn off water and power at breaker panel unscrew drain line under cabinet remove kick panel disconnect water hose at dishwasher disconnect power cable remove 2 screws at counter top leave legs as adjusted pull dishwaher out (feed drain hose from under sink) lift insulation on right side remove black plastic cover loosen control board enclosure open control board cover (2 tabs on inside) disconnect connectors starting from the right side (look for tabs) lift out old control board position new control board re-connect connectors starting on the left (see pictures) close cover and re-seat control board enclosure replace black panel, and insulation slide washer back in place reconnect power and water screw drain hose back up above disposal turn on breaker test washer, if all okay (no leaks, errors, etc) replace kick panel Optional - turn on "extra dry" feature.
If you do this in the uk, you may find it easier to unattach the door (leaving the wiring connected and laying next to base) and remove the cap and nut securing the salt chamber. once the four screws from the base to the tub have been removed, you can lift the tub off carefully, then its a bit less hairy changing the element.
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
New pump-heating element assembly cost 125Euro... Track burn off just in the beginning next to pin leg, due to minor leak from pump casing gasket... Just solder it again and swing a bit the gasket during assembly, to prevent leak again. All OK.
Is there a way to troubleshoot if the heater is bad, or if the temperature sensor is bad? I've also seen videos that show problems with the relay on the control board. I have a SHX68R55UC/67. This replacement seems straight forward, but I would rather not take everything apart if the problem lies elsewhere. My symptoms are that the dishes do not come out as clean as they used to, and they seem "cold" even at the end of the washing cycle. To me, that indicates that the water is not hot enough, which would suggest a problem with something in the heater? What do you recommend? Thank you!
molloni You can apply 110V (220 in Europe) directly to the heater element. You can hear it heat up the water and if you wait a bit you will see steam coming from the spray arm. Normal resistance for the heater is 12 Ohm, The thermistor (red wires) should show continuity at room temperature; the high temperature cut out infinity. If this checks out chances are you control board heater relay is burnt out and you need to replace the control board (RepairClinic Item #1102296) or check RUclips how to replace the relay on the control board if you have the skills.
+molloni I have the same model and the same problem you had when you posted. Did you ever figure out what your problem was? My control boards all looked fine and I get a 0 reading in the resistance for the part when I should get 12 ohms. Just wondering what your experience in your fix was before I go buying parts.
These are great videos and helped me replace my heating element. However, in the end it did not fix the lack of heat issue in my unit. If you are in the same situation check the safety switch that ensures there is enough water for the heater to turn on. If there isn't enough water in the machine the heater will not work (and sort of ironically not dry the dishes). I was able to test this by opening the door when it should be doing a final rinse and added an extra couple quarts of water and letting it resume. Turns out I had to replace the water inlet valve on the front of the machine as it had some particulate matter clogging it.
@@ciaranhahessy1405 I'm afraid we haven't got round to it, we're still pouring hot water in after 10 minutes, and then about 20 minutes before the end of the cycle! We're aged procrastinators!
@@Jessicajil Their are several faults that can cause several malfunctions on the machine. It is wise to check a component before replacing it. Even now, your fault may be in whatever determines the water level, rather than the inlet valve that is obviously working.
Hi RepairClinic - I just want to thank you so much for a fantastically helpful video. It's really clear and helpful, and has been invaluable for me in diagnosing the problem with my similar Bosch dishwasher. The machine fills and the programmer runs through its full prewash/wash/rinse cycle, but it never actually washes - the circulation pump does not operate. The water doesn't get hot and there is no heat apparent in the drying cycle. Thanks to you I have dismantled the machine and tested the heating element (which gives me a closed circuit) and the heat limiting switch (which gives me open circuit even though it's cold). So I reckon the switch is the problem. Am I correct in thinking that the circulation pump will not wash unless the water is hot?
David Penrose The circulation pump should operate no matter what the water temp is. The water actually needs to be running to heat since it has a flow through heater. If the circulation pump motor is not running it may just be stuck. You can try using a 7 or 8 mm socket on the impeller from the inside of the tank to see if the pump is stuck. You will have to take the filters out to get to the impeller. If the impeller is stuck you can keep turning the impeller to try and get it free. If the motor turns free and the impeller is turning during the wash cycle you may have another problem.
***** Thanks again for that further advice. I will check that the circulation pump is revolving freely. I have ordered a new heat limiting switch, so I'll also fit that.
great videos !!! i have almost the same model but upper the heating element frame, i have a mechanical electrique contact that allow water to wash the dishes or not...( i think it's that, i've opened it, and lost the alignment gear inside...i thought i was wrong there... can have an idea, one gear is with a mishing "teeth" from factory, the other one with a hole.... i've tryed many combination, and not sure... thank you
I am wondering, do you use the two obvious terminals to check continuity. I have read below that it should be 12 or so ohms. do you use the 2 main terminals for this heater to do that? One has a rose color below the terminal and the other is black. I assume that is how but wanted to make sure. I get a 0 reading when I check the resistance using those two main terminals. I suppose that means there is no continuity and the part is bad.
+HSI Samothraki Yes, the large two terminals that had the thicker red wires is the element that you want to check for resistance. We don't the chart, but that information is typically found on the dishwasher tech sheet. (12 ohms sounds reasonable.)
Hi. I have a Kenmore Elite dishwasher and i press the start button it automatically lights up the delay light/button and normal wash button and it never starts. I changed the control panel and control board and it still does the same thing. Any button i press will light up but the dishwasher will not start. Can you help me out with these situations. thank you in advance for your help.
hello, i have a bosch dishwasher model SMS63L08AU/12 05625 and i have an error message on it e01 can you tell what part needs replacing and do you have videos on how to do it so i may do it myself ? the dishwasher went thru its cycle and got to 1 minute then stayed on 1 minute for about 10 mins before i opend the door and noticed it still had water in the bottom but then i closed the door and that error number E01 is stuck on the main panel now and i cant get the machine to do anything now. i know how to get into the error code screen as in P0 codes but i do not know what to do from there on to test the machine? i hope you understand what i mean hahah. cheers for any help you can offer me. Mick
Thanks for producing these videos! I replaced my heater after a small leak developed and kept causing the sump to run continually as the lower tub was filling with water. After a few cycles seems as if the problem is solved. This job could have easily taken 2-3 times longer to complete if I had to figure out how to dismantle the unit.
Thanks for letting me know to never buy a Bosch. I loosened two nuts on my Whirlpool to replace the heating element. (Way too many parts need to be removed on this dishwasher.)
My feelings exactly. This video convinces me to call a repair man. I read that most often it is the heater relay which causes this. Imagine going through this, not losing or messing up anything only to find it is not the problem.
Looks like a complete ball ache. One wonders if its even worth doing given the complexity of reassembly and missing something, only to find it pisses out water at a later date!
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
😂 Damn this is a whole machine disassembly. I might as well buy a new one. Thanks for the great video
Thank you so much for this video. My Thermador dishwasher is older and a little different (it was made before Bosch bought Thermador) but this video gave me all the help I needed to replace the heating element - after a Bosch technician and Bosch customer service told me it could not be fixed. I had a little trouble bc of the tightness of the rubber gasket and O-rings so I used a little dish soap and it worked great. Thank you so much for this and all your great videos and your great website. You have saved me so much money over the years and also allowed me to repair and keep using great older appliances rather than adding more trash to the environment and buying new lower quality appliances that are designed to fail.
Just replaced this unit on a UK Siemens dishwasher and this video was very helpful - thanks! Problem was poor washing and the lower arm did not rotate.
UK unit had far more wires and connectors so trickier than the video. The wiring loom was very tight and other than the spade terminals that attach to the end of the heater unit (5:58 in the video) all the other electrical connections, including the loom multi-connectors on the right hand side of the unit in the base had to be released before the assembly could be pulled from the base. I also had to take off the earth spade connector at the bottom of the rear panel to allow the assembly to be pulled fully from the base. Take lots of photos before pulling wires! Reassembled and turned on and could not hear any water entering the unit and the pump kept running when the door was opened. More searching found the problem to be the float level switch on the left side of the unit. Took the left panel off and saw the red plastic float stick had tripped the black plastic micro-switch level and it had stuck. Freed that up and then tried the machine with panel off and could hear water and now back in action.
I can't thank you enough! I won't say it was as easy as in the video, it was pretty tough, my wiring did not allow me to remove everything from the base as shown so it was a bit like keyhole surgery but your instructions told me what to look for even though I had to do some things in different order because of inaccessibility. As a UK model there are also some differences, particularly the power supply.
I knocked the float sensor so when I had completely finished and switched on the machine, it just hummed. After resolving that, the machine leaked. I went back inside and checked everything, I suspect the pump was not attached securely. Easier to test the machine before replacing the front and side covers to check these things.
This video clip has saved my £175 and taught me a lot. I am a complete beginner and have never attempted to repair an appliance before.
Thanks for the great comment! We're happy we could help.
Good on you Anita! Go girl! I'm mid way through this nightmare and hoping my wife will have ordered a new dishwasher.... without telling me.
Symptoms -- not heating water, dishes come out wet. After replacing the heating element / pump assembly, I determined it was not the problem in my case. (Video is very good by the way). The problem was in the "control board", most likely the heater relay. I replaced the control board (cost about $130) but probably could have just replaced the relay. I couldn't find any videos outlining the steps to replace the board so documented the steps in case anyone else needs to do it. Time required s about 60 minutes.
Control board replacement on SHE68R55UV model Dishwasher
turn off water and power at breaker panel
unscrew drain line under cabinet
remove kick panel
disconnect water hose at dishwasher
disconnect power cable
remove 2 screws at counter top
leave legs as adjusted
pull dishwaher out (feed drain hose from under sink)
lift insulation on right side
remove black plastic cover
loosen control board enclosure
open control board cover (2 tabs on inside)
disconnect connectors starting from the right side (look for tabs)
lift out old control board
position new control board
re-connect connectors starting on the left (see pictures)
close cover and re-seat control board enclosure
replace black panel, and insulation
slide washer back in place
reconnect power and water
screw drain hose back up above disposal
turn on breaker
test washer, if all okay (no leaks, errors, etc) replace kick panel
Optional - turn on "extra dry" feature.
If you do this in the uk, you may find it easier to unattach the door (leaving the wiring connected and laying next to base) and remove the cap and nut securing the salt chamber. once the four screws from the base to the tub have been removed, you can lift the tub off carefully, then its a bit less hairy changing the element.
It entirely depends on your dishwasher's model number. Thanks for the tips!
*nice tutorials*keep it up bruh*🤩👍🤑
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Thank You so much, thanks to this video my dishwasher is working again 😎
Thank you - this was spot on, and saved me having to get someone in to do the job for me!
Excellent video!
Great to see a detailed step-by-step. Thanks 👍
New pump-heating element assembly cost 125Euro... Track burn off just in the beginning next to pin leg, due to minor leak from pump casing gasket... Just solder it again and swing a bit the gasket during assembly, to prevent leak again. All OK.
Exemplary demonstration video. Thanks for a helpful presentation.
Nice video to find out heating element replacement
Great video! Clear instructions; Quality videography. My unit is now working - thanks to you.
I love icons. My whole family loves icons. We make them in concrete and put them in the garden.
Is there a way to troubleshoot if the heater is bad, or if the temperature sensor is bad? I've also seen videos that show problems with the relay on the control board. I have a SHX68R55UC/67. This replacement seems straight forward, but I would rather not take everything apart if the problem lies elsewhere. My symptoms are that the dishes do not come out as clean as they used to, and they seem "cold" even at the end of the washing cycle. To me, that indicates that the water is not hot enough, which would suggest a problem with something in the heater?
What do you recommend? Thank you!
molloni You can apply 110V (220 in Europe) directly to the heater element. You can hear it heat up the water and if you wait a bit you will see steam coming from the spray arm. Normal resistance for the heater is 12 Ohm, The thermistor (red wires) should show continuity at room temperature; the high temperature cut out infinity. If this checks out chances are you control board heater relay is burnt out and you need to replace the control board (RepairClinic Item #1102296) or check RUclips how to replace the relay on the control board if you have the skills.
+molloni I have the same model and the same problem you had when you posted. Did you ever figure out what your problem was? My control boards all looked fine and I get a 0 reading in the resistance for the part when I should get 12 ohms. Just wondering what your experience in your fix was before I go buying parts.
My heater relay had bad solder joints. Resoldering them fixed the problem.
These are great videos and helped me replace my heating element. However, in the end it did not fix the lack of heat issue in my unit. If you are in the same situation check the safety switch that ensures there is enough water for the heater to turn on. If there isn't enough water in the machine the heater will not work (and sort of ironically not dry the dishes). I was able to test this by opening the door when it should be doing a final rinse and added an extra couple quarts of water and letting it resume.
Turns out I had to replace the water inlet valve on the front of the machine as it had some particulate matter clogging it.
Thanks..I thought it was the heating element, but after reading your comment I was able to determine it's the inlet valve. :)
Thank you! I just added water to mine and it heated and dried fine ... so I now need to find the water inlet valve ...
Hi, did you find it?
@@ciaranhahessy1405 I'm afraid we haven't got round to it, we're still pouring hot water in after 10 minutes, and then about 20 minutes before the end of the cycle! We're aged procrastinators!
@@Jessicajil Their are several faults that can cause several malfunctions on the machine. It is wise to check a component before replacing it.
Even now, your fault may be in whatever determines the water level, rather than the inlet valve that is obviously working.
Congratulations! Great video guide!
Hi RepairClinic - I just want to thank you so much for a fantastically helpful video. It's really clear and helpful, and has been invaluable for me in diagnosing the problem with my similar Bosch dishwasher. The machine fills and the programmer runs through its full prewash/wash/rinse cycle, but it never actually washes - the circulation pump does not operate. The water doesn't get hot and there is no heat apparent in the drying cycle. Thanks to you I have dismantled the machine and tested the heating element (which gives me a closed circuit) and the heat limiting switch (which gives me open circuit even though it's cold). So I reckon the switch is the problem. Am I correct in thinking that the circulation pump will not wash unless the water is hot?
David Penrose The circulation pump should operate no matter what the water temp is. The water actually needs to be running to heat since it has a flow through heater. If the circulation pump motor is not running it may just be stuck. You can try using a 7 or 8 mm socket on the impeller from the inside of the tank to see if the pump is stuck. You will have to take the filters out to get to the impeller. If the impeller is stuck you can keep turning the impeller to try and get it free. If the motor turns free and the impeller is turning during the wash cycle you may have another problem.
***** Thanks again for that further advice. I will check that the circulation pump is revolving freely. I have ordered a new heat limiting switch, so I'll also fit that.
I just chucked the old one and bought a new machine on discount. saved me a helluva lot of time for the price . Good engineering video though
great videos !!!
i have almost the same model but upper the heating element frame, i have a mechanical electrique contact that allow water to wash the dishes or not...( i think it's that, i've opened it, and lost the alignment gear inside...i thought i was wrong there...
can have an idea, one gear is with a mishing "teeth" from factory, the other one with a hole....
i've tryed many combination, and not sure...
thank you
i have constructa dishwaser model cg4a00s2il and i can't find the heat element
I am wondering, do you use the two obvious terminals to check continuity. I have read below that it should be 12 or so ohms. do you use the 2 main terminals for this heater to do that? One has a rose color below the terminal and the other is black. I assume that is how but wanted to make sure. I get a 0 reading when I check the resistance using those two main terminals. I suppose that means there is no continuity and the part is bad.
+HSI Samothraki Yes, the large two terminals that had the thicker red wires is the element that you want to check for resistance. We don't the chart, but that information is typically found on the dishwasher tech sheet. (12 ohms sounds reasonable.)
Is this replacement procedure for E09 fault?
Hi. I have a Kenmore Elite dishwasher and i press the start button it automatically lights up the delay light/button and normal wash button and it never starts. I changed the control panel and control board and it still does the same thing. Any button i press will light up but the dishwasher will not start. Can you help me out with these situations. thank you in advance for your help.
+phillgr2 You may have a defective door switch preventing the unit from starting.
hello, i have a bosch dishwasher model SMS63L08AU/12 05625 and i have an error message on it e01 can you tell what part needs replacing and do you have videos on how to do it so i may do it myself ? the dishwasher went thru its cycle and got to 1 minute then stayed on 1 minute for about 10 mins before i opend the door and noticed it still had water in the bottom but then i closed the door and that error number E01 is stuck on the main panel now and i cant get the machine to do anything now. i know how to get into the error code screen as in P0 codes but i do not know what to do from there on to test the machine? i hope you understand what i mean hahah. cheers for any help you can offer me.
Mick
Very professional. Thanks.
Thanks for producing these videos! I replaced my heater after a small leak developed and kept causing the sump to run continually as the lower tub was filling with water. After a few cycles seems as if the problem is solved. This job could have easily taken 2-3 times longer to complete if I had to figure out how to dismantle the unit.
where can I get the part at a reasonable price
We are looking for it too. Did you ever find it ?
Good grief!!! and had to replace the water inlet valve 3 times !! time for the trash heap
Thanks for letting me know to never buy a Bosch. I loosened two nuts on my Whirlpool to replace the heating element. (Way too many parts need to be removed on this dishwasher.)
Their is many parts because it is well engineered! There is alot more safety and performance feature in these dishwasher than many other brand.
After watching this I have decided to stay away from Bosch and go with one that has a regular element like a Maytag. Just sayin'.
Benim bulaşık makinası sürekli şu alıp şu veriyor yıkama yapmıyor sebebini bilen varmı
This video was awesome. They included so much detail, making the installation pretty easy. Now, I'm hoping this is the repair I actually needed!
Cool thanks!
my dishwasher keeps beeping every 30 seconds and the lights are flashing ...I turned of the power for 30 min still have this problem
+Derryl Barnes Perhaps the control board is defective.
Yeah, what is with the cast iron water pipes????WTF?????
WARNING if you do not shutt of power supply in wall socket and touch unisolated wir you would receive electric shock (in best case).
If an error message on the machine shows E02 does this mean it needs a new part?
+Max Whiley That normally indicates a faulty heating element or control board.
I love this Vedio bcuz this Vedio is one step forward technology for all. It's a owesome and creative vedio
never a bosch any more for me
This is tp, very well explained
Jan-pieter Breugem Thank you!
nice to do on a new machine but not wiith a sump full of sludge, stinky water or half a rotten Pizza...
Yikes! That sounds awful. What is half a rotten pizza doing in your dishwasher?
Sod that!
My feelings exactly. This video convinces me to call a repair man. I read that most often it is the heater relay which causes this. Imagine going through this, not losing or messing up anything only to find it is not the problem.
Looks like a complete ball ache. One wonders if its even worth doing given the complexity of reassembly and missing something, only to find it pisses out water at a later date!
Yep ..thanks for video... Will not buy Bosch.... Did know it was 1000$ of plastic crap .... So discouraging this cheap plastic products ...
too hard for me :)
I'll just hand wash.
Ikr
This is extremely bad design. Why someone need to disassemble the entire machine to just replace a heating element.