This is a masterful demonstration of a practical skill, with maximum content, with minimal ( NO ) verbalization to confuse the presentation. This is a fantastic show of using maximum skill, and minimum equipment to preform a precision task. I love your crank test stand, a work of art, all on it's own. Your photography is magnificent, and shows everything needed perfectly !!! Congratulations !!! Tim
@@ronnieboucherthecrystalcraftsm Hi, Ronnie I am wondering about the comment you just sent me ??? Why would you assume that I don't know much about engine assembly ??? Base upon my positive comment about Paul Xs' display of expertise. Tim
i watch your videos from many years ago , all jobs you make are a masterclass demostration of "how to do" many fixes , i've learned a lot from you and your videos man ... cheers from mexico !
Amazing that the press plug is good enough to lock it all down. Also amazed the builder left all the rust/corrosion on the crank. Could be that it looks worse on camera.
Good job. Nice centering attachement. No need of use hammer for truing if use bush type Crank assembling fixtures. Perfect well done. Please upload video about cylinder head valve seat repair. Thanks
Nice..... I have been playing with smaller cranks than this but I have been warming the cranks in a "deepfat fryer" up to 150 C.... the cold pins go in with hand force..
Given the edges of both wheels are machined, a clamp like the flywheel alignment jig clamps used on Evo and prior could be equally useful when pressing could reduce error and save expensive shop time. Two pieces of heavy channel or equivalent with edges milled flat would do but it could be more advanced as desired.
Bielles moulés dans la masse avec cage aiguilles plutôt que demi coussinets et calage reporté sur un axe ex-tractable des balanciers de vilebrequin...Punaise, franchement, d'un point de vue mécanique c'est super malin. Je comprends mieux pourquoi ces motos sont increvables (dans le cas présent il a du avoir un souci de niveau d'huile, mais rien en terme de tare mécanique mal conçue). Chapeau Harley Davidson.
@@PaulXchannel Very simple : off course, need some knowledge, but i just say with this example, how H&D so durability. This crankshaft damage result low oil, not by the way R&D . i love the way connecting rod done, one in one. Very intelligent. And i love the fact crankshaft build in two parts, very intelligent, not oblige buy an entire another one. Sorry my english, school nivel ; )
The scarred crank pin may be caused by not enough oil being circulated, idk. I've read that some people balk at Twin Cam motors due to their supposed unreliability. If you're going to overhaul one you might as well swap the chain-driven cam assembly with a set of gear-driven ones as cam chain tensioners on them do have a litany of issues.
It's old school, but the beauty of it is in it's absolute simplicity. Harley motors are not high tech, however, they are reliable for this one simple reason. Where most motors are permanently and irreversibly damaged, a Harley motor can be repaired. By design it is almost impossible for a common crank pin motor to throw a connecting rod. You may lose the bearings, or the motor may break a wrist pin, but it won't throw a connecting rod, the modularity of the motor also aides in it's robust and endlessly repairable nature.
Every $10,000 motocross engine of all 2020 to as far back as 1968 japanese dirt bikes all ktm dirt bikes all new maico everything is made exactly like this harley and you need to go to and eye doctor and get new glasses cause you got double double vision and no depth perception 1970 shovel head was a 5 piece crank the evos were 3 piece and this is a twin cam that is a two piece ...those bearing are much bigger than those in a drive shaft as if they were actual needle bearings as you claim they are would not last three hours ....So tell me so everyone else will know and exactly why that front rod and the center of the crank pin failed and the rear female rod and both ends of the crank pin still look brand new ..and if you dont come with the correct answer you are just another flilthy scum bucket harley hater who just wants to put harley out of business to make harder for me to own them just for your spite ;
При такому способі центрування,лапки індикатора треба ставити на кінці вала!!На відео видно неозброєним оком що вал ще потрібно центрувати,биття там більше десятки.Вага вашого молоточка замала для такого колінвала.Я сам колись ремонтував колінвали ... Гарний у Вас контент,успіхів!
Excellent! thanks for sharing your knowledge. I only have one question: What is the cover you put on the pin for, at the end of the video? Thank you very much for answering!
I developed a method where the wheels are trued zero while pressed them together without hitting them with a copper hammer and truing them. Also why did you not replace pinion shaft when it was apart for a new bearing surface and oiling upgrade?
Its only a 3 piece crank. To change out the pinion or sprocket shaft you have to change that wheel/crank half. The shafts are made as part of the crank assembly. The old/shovel head, panhead, knucklehead, sporty cranks were good stuff. Not garbage like twin cam door weights.
1) I did not see the truing dial indicators Zeroed out. Was that crank installe with runout? 2) If going to the trouble and expense of swapping out rods and crank pin, why not throw a few more bucks at it and make it a stroker. A few inches more never hurts, actually it feels pretty good, or so my sister says.... ....RooDog....
Exactly, however, there is no fat but oil, the fat initially obstructs the oil passages, however I don't understand why it didn't. It would have been less risky in the first start.
Very interesting. I am sending mine to Dark Horse but this guy makes it look easy. It aint. A lot of things can go wrong and when it's wrong, it's real bad news. But you won't know till it's in there. Still probably better than Harley did it. (Still love you Harley but it is what it is) Thanks for the video. Cool to see.
In complete job, I have done many Harley Davidson flywheels over the years started with panheads all the way through twin cams you didn't address the end of your pinion shaft or your driveshaft just because your dial indicator reads.000 at the bearing surface doesn't mean it will be.000 at the end of the shaft, more than likely the ends of both pinion and output shaft will be out of tolerance, these flywheels are not finished yet
QUESTIONS : 1) because you changed rods, de new external one does not have lubricant canals, WHY? 2) Mandatory, new rods do not have the same mass of older ones. Why you did not mesure it and balanced the crankshaft flanges at the end? Thank you for the answer. Anyway, you do great work.
@@PaulXchannelOK. Just I asked because they are not visibles in the video at 6:05 timing. However it would be nice to show how to check it detailing the mass of the twin rod big ends mobile assy with their roll cage and singular little piston end with its roll age or pin. Anyway, thank you for your fast answer. Great job.
@@PaulXchannel reading you better I doubt we are talking about the same fact. Initially I was not talking about the pin. I was talking about the shoulder of the big end of the rod visible at 6:05. ;)
If you would have used a positioning jig you could have eliminated the hammering. You still would want to check it for position. But a great job none the less. Also you need to face grind that Hammer. The way it is now it could spit something at your eyes.
What are your thoughts on welding the shaft that you pressed in to the flywheel assembly that holds the bearings/rods? I know people do it to prevent runout on high RPM builds and I want to have a nice reliable xr1200/xb12 crank built for my Sportster build to handle a beating. Your work is amazing!
@@PaulXchannel you can weld a quarter round the crank pin to the fly wheels so it can never slip .and use a tig welder for a very small and narrow bead and not much penetration so it can be ground off with a die grinder. For future overhauls ..of the last of the all roller cranks from Suzuki came factory welded pins as a lot of them were twisting cranks at the midnight drags in the ghetto on 36th street Indy back then
Best thing for a reliable Sportster is keep it between 2,000rpm and 6,000rpm and don't fit drag pipes as they lose power being designed to work at 9,000rpm on XR 750
Many many yrs ago I Had a 2 pc crank assembled by the local HD shop. Motor shook so bad I couldnt use it. Took it apart again and they put it on a different truing jig than what's shown. Could see it wobble but their dial indicators read .001 run out.... :( And they didn't use that aligning jig you used during the press assembly. But Can't imagine how smacking the wheel with the malleable hammer will reposition a pressed in pin . Anyway it is a awful design. But a informative video. Thsnks for making and posting
Hammer blows will move the wheel relative to the pin by a minute distance. Inertia helps. The other way is to bump the wheel against the end of a hardwood block in the vice. A good operator can get down to less than 0.001" TIR, providing the parts are in good shape.
you should have the calipers at the end of the pins .. this is the centering to the shit .. and as for the centering of the connecting rod pin to the leader of the lubrication channel I would rather use a pin directed to the seal of the bore and not pencil..
My crankshaft is pitted near where the crankseal mate's. any advise paul X its only very faint what do you reckon if i use high temp chemical metal & feather it in with some scotch brite i dont have a lathe & ino you can get a sleeve made to give it a new mateing service just wouldn't no where to get one ? ? ? Its on the left side flywheel side
Nice balancing jig. Whats the tolerance allowance for something like this? Also, are the crank shafts normally true? Gonna build a pan in a few years and want to do it all myself. Love the vid
I trued HD flywheels for thirty odd years, they need be within .001 inch true and straight to run smoothly. New flywheels could be a pain but stock old ones generally fall back to true fairly easily. I had little trouble with pan and shovel wheels. Steel S&S wheels could have a bit of chasing a bit around.
@@PaulXchannel Given the damage was only on the side of the crank pin that sees load during the power stroke, doubtful it was just mileage. In my experience its detonation that shock loads the rollers and pin on top there and chunks the rollers and pin at that location.
This is a masterful demonstration of a practical skill, with maximum content, with minimal ( NO ) verbalization to confuse the presentation. This is a fantastic show of using maximum skill, and minimum equipment to preform a precision task.
I love your crank test stand, a work of art, all on it's own.
Your photography is magnificent, and shows everything needed perfectly !!!
Congratulations !!!
Tim
you must not know much about engine assembly ! = i bet you !
@@ronnieboucherthecrystalcraftsm
Hi, Ronnie
I am wondering about the comment you just sent me ???
Why would you assume that I don't know much about engine assembly ???
Base upon my positive comment about Paul Xs' display of expertise.
Tim
i watch your videos from many years ago , all jobs you make are a masterclass demostration of "how to do" many fixes , i've learned a lot from you and your videos man ... cheers from mexico !
Do you know what pressure at takes to press the pin out and back into cranshaft?
Do you know what pressure at takes to press the pin out and back into cranshaft?
@@ceasarvinas3129it doesn't look to be a very big press. If 20 ton doesn't work replace the jack with a 40 ton unit
Amazing that the press plug is good enough to lock it all down. Also amazed the builder left all the rust/corrosion on the crank. Could be that it looks worse on camera.
My experience, it's often a bit of case sealant dripped across.
Outstanding video, well presented and complete in coverage. I wish more were like this. Excellent background music by the way.
Good job. Nice centering attachement. No need of use hammer for truing if use bush type Crank assembling fixtures. Perfect well done.
Please upload video about cylinder head valve seat repair. Thanks
Thanks.
In future videos.
Nice..... I have been playing with smaller cranks than this but I have been warming the cranks in a "deepfat fryer" up to 150 C.... the cold pins go in with hand force..
I wish all youtube channels were like yours. No bullshit talking just show how to
Been nice to hear someone explain this
Given the edges of both wheels are machined, a clamp like the flywheel alignment jig clamps used on Evo and prior could be equally useful when pressing could reduce error and save expensive shop time. Two pieces of heavy channel or equivalent with edges milled flat would do but it could be more advanced as desired.
No words to describe my feelings
Just fantastic mind blowing and excellent job. 🇵🇰🇵🇰🇵🇰love from Pakistan
great vid, just wondering why you don't heat the wheels, freeze the pin and drop it together instead of pressing?
Commentary left me speechless!
Bielles moulés dans la masse avec cage aiguilles plutôt que demi coussinets et calage reporté sur un axe ex-tractable des balanciers de vilebrequin...Punaise, franchement, d'un point de vue mécanique c'est super malin. Je comprends mieux pourquoi ces motos sont increvables (dans le cas présent il a du avoir un souci de niveau d'huile, mais rien en terme de tare mécanique mal conçue). Chapeau Harley Davidson.
Heavy crankshaft for rod replacement.
@@PaulXchannel Very simple : off course, need some knowledge, but i just say with this example, how H&D so durability. This crankshaft damage result low oil, not by the way R&D . i love the way connecting rod done, one in one. Very intelligent. And i love the fact crankshaft build in two parts, very intelligent, not oblige buy an entire another one. Sorry my english, school nivel ; )
Excellent work, everything is detailed and well presented. Thanks for the video, enjoyed watching
ถ่ายทอดความรู้ ด้วย วีดีโอ ได้ดีมากๆๆ เข้าใจได้ โดยไม่ต้อง พูดออกเสียง ขอเป็นกำลังใจให้นะครับ ทำรุ่น M8 เครื่อง 104 บ้างนะครับ ขอบคุณครับ
The scarred crank pin may be caused by not enough oil being circulated, idk. I've read that some people balk at Twin Cam motors due to their supposed unreliability. If you're going to overhaul one you might as well swap the chain-driven cam assembly with a set of gear-driven ones as cam chain tensioners on them do have a litany of issues.
Runout is too high on most of them to take gears.
3 piece crankshaft, with needle bearings. Wow, That is real old school.
It's old school, but the beauty of it is in it's absolute simplicity.
Harley motors are not high tech, however, they are reliable for
this one simple reason. Where most motors are permanently
and irreversibly damaged, a Harley motor can be repaired.
By design it is almost impossible for a common crank pin
motor to throw a connecting rod. You may lose the bearings,
or the motor may break a wrist pin, but it won't throw a
connecting rod, the modularity of the motor also aides in it's
robust and endlessly repairable nature.
Every $10,000 motocross engine of all 2020 to as far back as 1968 japanese dirt bikes all ktm dirt bikes all new maico everything is made exactly like this harley and you need to go to and eye doctor and get new glasses cause you got double double vision and no depth perception 1970 shovel head was a 5 piece crank the evos were 3 piece and this is a twin cam that is a two piece ...those bearing are much bigger than those in a drive shaft as if they were actual needle bearings as you claim they are would not last three hours ....So tell me so everyone else will know and exactly why that front rod and the center of the crank pin failed and the rear female rod and both ends of the crank pin still look brand new ..and if you dont come with the correct answer you are just another flilthy scum bucket harley hater who just wants to put harley out of business to make harder for me to own them just for your spite ;
@@nowthisis2stupid old school of a ducks ass ...every dirt bike is built exactly the same way ..you are not helping anyone ..go home
@@nowthisis2stupid hd not high tech ...your brain is not either is why you dont have a clue
@@nowthisis2stupid i just finished your comment of not one thing said is true ...and all you said is your total imagination gone from who knows where
Thats a precision job . Good work
При такому способі центрування,лапки індикатора треба ставити на кінці вала!!На відео видно неозброєним оком що вал ще потрібно центрувати,биття там більше десятки.Вага вашого молоточка замала для такого колінвала.Я сам колись ремонтував колінвали ...
Гарний у Вас контент,успіхів!
excellent work, clean and precise, congratulations
Excellent! thanks for sharing your knowledge. I only have one question: What is the cover you put on the pin for, at the end of the video? Thank you very much for answering!
Great job with lots detail. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
Thanks
Very well done with good detail.
I developed a method where the wheels are trued zero while pressed them together without hitting them with a copper hammer and truing them. Also why did you not replace pinion shaft when it was apart for a new bearing surface and oiling upgrade?
Its only a 3 piece crank. To change out the pinion or sprocket shaft you have to change that wheel/crank half. The shafts are made as part of the crank assembly. The old/shovel head, panhead, knucklehead, sporty cranks were good stuff. Not garbage like twin cam door weights.
Hi, what was done to the crank to clean up the damage on it? Or does the damage not matter? Thank you, I’m looking into rebuilding a twin cam engine
reliable mechanic wish you good health and success always amiiiiinnnnnnn 🙏👍
Thank you very much
индикаторы надо ставить по концам сапф . а у тебя ближе к центру . там биение минимально показывает потому что там лежит коленвал на рориках
да . можно было в ноль вывести. посмотри георгий трифанов
И смещение равнял ударяя по той половинки где масляный канал.
1) I did not see the truing dial indicators Zeroed out. Was that crank installe with runout?
2) If going to the trouble and expense of swapping out rods and crank pin, why not throw a few more bucks at it and make it a stroker. A few inches more never hurts, actually it feels pretty good, or so my sister says....
....RooDog....
Was wondering if the con rods were the same weight as the old ones as to retain the balance. Could be that the balance is better now.
Great video good jobs what is the flywheel tuning stand… interesting
Thank you
Do u think a 12 ton shop press is strong enough to press the crank pin and flywheel assembly out of the case?
Not
Assembly error - greasing full the connecting rod crankpin is mandatory.
Exactly, however, there is no fat but oil, the fat initially obstructs the oil passages, however I don't understand why it didn't. It would have been less risky in the first start.
Greasing can inhibit oil flow-very bad! Use only the oil the bike will run on, and make sure to prime the crankpin when assembling the engine.
Keep the grease on the axels.
Yes, lube the con rod bearings please. All 3 please. With assembly lube.
why not put some assembly lube or grease on those bearings before you install them?
The press looked well made
Very interesting. I am sending mine to Dark Horse but this guy makes it look easy. It aint. A lot of things can go wrong and when it's wrong, it's real bad news. But you won't know till it's in there. Still probably better than Harley did it. (Still love you Harley but it is what it is)
Thanks for the video. Cool to see.
Thanks
Semua rakitan mesin2 mrk apspun senang sekali untuk belajar tehnik tinggi ini.
Very nicely done. Beautiful job.
Thanks
In complete job, I have done many Harley Davidson flywheels over the years started with panheads all the way through twin cams you didn't address the end of your pinion shaft or your driveshaft just because your dial indicator reads.000 at the bearing surface doesn't mean it will be.000 at the end of the shaft, more than likely the ends of both pinion and output shaft will be out of tolerance, these flywheels are not finished yet
excelente trabajo Saludos desde Argentina
Hi Paul can u tell me pls what grade steel those bars are
Хорошая работа!
Hola ¿donde se puede comprar esa mesa de equilibrado de cigüeñales??
Man knows what he is doing
how to buy rebuild tool?? (ex. crank stand ...)
How many tons is your press? May attempt to do my own after watching this video. thanks
50t
В центрах вал надо проверять!!!!!
Разница по идее небольшая
Nice truing stand!!
Thanks
QUESTIONS :
1) because you changed rods, de new external one does not have lubricant canals, WHY?
2) Mandatory, new rods do not have the same mass of older ones. Why you did not mesure it and balanced the crankshaft flanges at the end?
Thank you for the answer.
Anyway, you do great work.
lubrication canals are also in the new pin.
The weight is the same.
Thanks.
@@PaulXchannelOK. Just I asked because they are not visibles in the video at 6:05 timing.
However it would be nice to show how to check it detailing the mass of the twin rod big ends mobile assy with their roll cage and singular little piston end with its roll age or pin.
Anyway, thank you for your fast answer. Great job.
@@PaulXchannel reading you better I doubt we are talking about the same fact. Initially I was not talking about the pin. I was talking about the shoulder of the big end of the rod visible at 6:05. ;)
amazing video, thank you!
Ok
Great Jop ! Thanks for upload. Love from Turkey-lstanbul.
Thanks for watching.
@@PaulXchannel merhaba. Ü. Ama üü nü. Üüü ü. Mn. Ülke ü ln ön üm m ü. Nü ç lğl
Great video, is there a balancing portion as well??
If you would have used a positioning jig you could have eliminated the hammering. You still would want to check it for position. But a great job none the less. Also you need to face grind that Hammer. The way it is now it could spit something at your eyes.
What are your thoughts on welding the shaft that you pressed in to the flywheel assembly that holds the bearings/rods? I know people do it to prevent runout on high RPM builds and I want to have a nice reliable xr1200/xb12 crank built for my Sportster build to handle a beating. Your work is amazing!
Thanks.
Welding the shaft ???
@@PaulXchannel you can weld a quarter round the crank pin to the fly wheels so it can never slip
.and use a tig welder for a very small and narrow bead and not much penetration so it can be ground off with a die grinder. For future overhauls ..of the last of the all roller cranks from Suzuki came factory welded pins as a lot of them were twisting cranks at the midnight drags in the ghetto on 36th street Indy back then
Best thing for a reliable Sportster is keep it between 2,000rpm and 6,000rpm and don't fit drag pipes as they lose power being designed to work at 9,000rpm on XR 750
Weld ur up
What?
The jig that you used to true the flywheel. Did you build it yourself or is there a company that you purchased it from?
ruclips.net/video/qPJe2KwTHfM/видео.html
Please Do some old parallel twin with ball bearing crankshaft, i always curious how they're assembled 🤔
Ok
@@PaulXchannel thanks man, i appreciate it.. 🤝
Gr8 video
Many many yrs ago I Had a 2 pc crank assembled by the local HD shop.
Motor shook so bad I couldnt use it.
Took it apart again and they put it on a different truing jig than what's shown. Could see it wobble but their dial indicators read .001 run out.... :(
And they didn't use that aligning jig you used during the press assembly.
But Can't imagine how smacking the wheel with the malleable hammer will reposition a pressed in pin . Anyway it is a awful design. But a informative video. Thsnks for making and posting
Thanks
Hammer blows will move the wheel relative to the pin by a minute distance. Inertia helps. The other way is to bump the wheel against the end of a hardwood block in the vice.
A good operator can get down to less than 0.001" TIR, providing the parts are in good shape.
You hit that 7 times and it's completely centered and balanced. I hit that 7 times and would be completely destroyed.
Привет.. Это клин?
Trima kasih mau berbagi👍👍
I love your centring jig do you sell them or know where I can purchase one?
Great methodical video by the way. Must have taken a while to edit ect.
Thanks. I only have one centering device. I use it in my workshop.
What is the average cost for v twin flywheel services ?
Excelente trabajo
WHAT PART NUMBER IS THE RODS AND CRANKPIN THEY WANT TO SELL ME THE FLYWHEEL ASSEMBLY THANKS
Nice truing stand!
Thanks.
ruclips.net/video/qPJe2KwTHfM/видео.html
awesome... it's a beautiful thing.
Thanks
Name of Background Music pls
Nice job!.
Thanks
Nice job
Thanks
Sangat menghabiskan uang saat turun mesin 😀
عمل رائع شكرا لك اخي
Belo trabalho.
Would like to know what the dual indicator tool source is. Is this commercially available?
Made in my workshop.
Olá e possível importa um para Brasil, twin 88 1450cc
Like them indicators where can you get them? Very good video!
Thanks.
Made in my workshop.
Dial indicators are available online
Really cool video PaulX!
I'm in the process of trying to rebuild a crankshaft
Where did you get the trying jig from??
Thanks
Made in workshop
@@PaulXchannel That's cool af man!!!
I have a question, but what, do all Harleys have crankshafts on bearings, or on liners too?
Because freedumb!!!
you should have the calipers at the end of the pins .. this is the centering to the shit .. and as for the centering of the connecting rod pin to the leader of the lubrication channel I would rather use a pin directed to the seal of the bore and not pencil..
Very well done!
Thanks
What was the cause of the damage?
I don't know
good job! how many tons is the press?
50t
@@PaulXchannel can i do it with a smaller one?
Maybe yes
Vert enlightening! Thank you for sharing!
Nice job. How many miles for this crankshaft ?
I don't know but a lot.
My crankshaft is pitted near where the crankseal mate's. any advise paul X its only very faint what do you reckon if i use high temp chemical metal & feather it in with some scotch brite i dont have a lathe & ino you can get a sleeve made to give it a new mateing service just wouldn't no where to get one ? ? ? Its on the left side flywheel side
You make a case and glue with loctite 638
@@PaulXchannel what you mean like a sleeve you mean
@@officialmysteriousrider6327 yes, sleeve
Never strike the pinion side!
OK
Perfect
Please can you tell me what is the preasure on your press in tonns?
My press have 50tons.
@@PaulXchannel Thank you!
Camera is good i am like
É , tem coisas que só na pancada é q resolve.
Hey Paul, great video! How many tons is that press rated for?
the output of my press is 50 tons
Wow!
Nice balancing jig. Whats the tolerance allowance for something like this? Also, are the crank shafts normally true? Gonna build a pan in a few years and want to do it all myself. Love the vid
Hi.
New crank - tolerance up to 0.01 mm.
Replaced crank when is luck :) to 0.01 ..... 0.03mm
I trued HD flywheels for thirty odd years, they need be within .001 inch true and straight to run smoothly. New flywheels could be a pain but stock old ones generally fall back to true fairly easily. I had little trouble with pan and shovel wheels. Steel S&S wheels could have a bit of chasing a bit around.
Great !
Mammamia! One of the "slowest" video in history!!! If you work this way in your workshop you spend 1 mounth to overhaul a single engine.
Hi . It's for illustration.
Thank you Sonic for your interest.
You don't build engines do you, let alone cranks?
Как говориться, дело мастера боится!
спасибо
How many tons need for the press for this job?
I have 50t.
o cara é bom montou a biela a seco
Hey Paul! What is in that spraycan that you used?
Lubra K AHT
Good job
Thanks
tai lu wan
Hey Paul, what was the cause of the damage to the crank pin?
I think a lot of km or miles.
@@PaulXchannel Given the damage was only on the side of the crank pin that sees load during the power stroke, doubtful it was just mileage. In my experience its detonation that shock loads the rollers and pin on top there and chunks the rollers and pin at that location.
👍👍👍 mantap