Thank you for everything that you do Jay! Did you know you can fit 360 rads in the lian li 011 minis with some offset adapters?! I didn't know it when I built mine, but I wish I did!
if I remember right, its the asus aura sync software for the ram. its the same type of ram that I am currently using in my system. but you probably have figured it out by now.
You guys sell any of the equipment that you use in the videos like full PC Towers? I see the links for parts and small things needed for Pc's but I see all these Towers in every video are they just ones you work on for customers or you ever think of selling them?
Glad Phil is in the videos more. Enjoying the newer content, a lot! Didn't realize how much height difference there is, between the two of you though. Lol
Jay, you REALLY need to wear eye protection when drilling. I made that mistake years ago and a metal shaving went into my eye. It took 3 months to work its way out. It's not worth potentially damaging your eyes just because you couldn't be bothered to put on safety glasses. Set the example, especially since you might have younger, inexperienced viewers.
Happened to me too, luckily I was able to flush it within a few hours. It was pure pain the entire time. I wear safety glasses all the time now no matter how much they end up reducing my sight because those mofos scratch themselves to all buggery just looking at them.
Quitter. You could of went with it and called yourself Steel-Eyed Sam. It could of been your villain origin story. You could of got an bejeweled eyepatch. But no. Now you're a shill for big goggles.
I love it when you guys are just laughing and messing around, I don't know why but every time I go to help a friend build a new rig we always laugh our asses off too because things can easily go to the gutter so quickly... it makes it so funny and hilarious! I still love Phil smacking his head and cracking up😂❤ Jay, you are looking good! Hope You are feeling better.❤
I rock the O11 air mini. Love it. I have 2x280 rads in mine cooling my loop and it's been an amazing case for it's size. You will like it Phil, I give it my thumbs up.
Entertainment,comedic timing, knowledge everything is perfect on his channel been a subscriber from 2014 have seen the evolution throughout still one of th best channel's to learn about computer's
i have a love hate relationship with mine. Full ATX mobo and a 280 AIO. I couldn't mount the rad on top because it hits the VRMs on my mobo, so I front mounted it but now I only have room for two 120mm fans on the top and bottom, I wanted three on the top and bottom but the rad is a few mm too long. I wish they had made the case about 6mm taller. I eventually finagled a 120mm x 20mm slim fan on the top so I now have my three fans on top. I really don't like that I need to use those fan cages for the front rad. I feel like it adds to much thickness so the screws are barely just long enough to go through the fans and fan cages to attach to the rad. I also don't understand why Lian Li made the 3.5 inch HDD cage removal in the regular 011 mini but non-removal in the 011 Air mini. I do have one 3.5 inch hard drive though. Also last but not least my 3.5 inch HDD runs pretty hot. I have Hard Drive Sentinel monitoring temps and that drive is constantly near 55-60C. My last little gripe is that the 3.5mm headphone jack died on my front/top panel for no reason. I got an RMA replacement front/top panel board from Lian Li but it's impossible to install unless i take the whole case apart.
Just a little heads up, any soft tubing has and leaches plasticizer.- black, white, clear, it doesn't matter. The "plasticizer" is what makes it soft. The black color just makes it so you can't see it. While you might not see it, it is slowly being leached out and contaminating your water line. From personal experience, dark tubing is actually worse because they don't have to hide how much plasticizer is being leached.
10 years of experience in the industry of testing for leachables from plastics btw. This is just another reason hard line acrylic (or better, metal) will always be the cleanest option.
@@timno9804 I'm trying to learn water cooling methods since my last build is my first water cooled. Why plastic tubing? Why not glass or copper/metal tubing instead? Is it just cost/ease of use/aesthetics? I found a LTT video with copper tubing. Going to watch it, lol.
I had a Cooler Master HAF 932 case. It did have an opening in the top for a reservoir fill tube. It also had some grommets at top in the back, in case you wanted to run cooling lines outside the case.
I put the fill port on my O11d XL... sure makes it nice and easy to fill it, no need to work my way in... and after getting the air out, topping off was easy... take top panel off, and open the valve... no need to worry about fans right near my hand...
This is basically the idea I had in mind for my next system with this case and the water cooling loop. Thank you for doing the fitment check for me ;) I only want to go with alphacool x-flow radiators, which will make the tubing runs really neat and short. My plan is also to put the fill port into the top opening of the radiator port (since the ports go through the end tank on these rads so you have a thread on top and bottom) and do the same thing on the bottom rad for a drain port.
Love the O11 Air Mini, it's so versatile for it's small size. Mine has a ATX motherboard with a side 280mm rad (NZXT Z63 - rad on the inside/fans on Push - Some DiY required) and i can still use another 240mm rad on top (with Lian Li Offset kit if it's a chunky rad), all of this with an ATX motherboard. With 4x 140mm intake fans and 4x 120mm exaust ones, the case is soooooo cool, Phil will love it 😀
I did hardline 14mm OD tube in my O11 Air Mini with 4x 240mm radiators, it’s my favorite pc build of all time and still loving it today! I’ll admit I did have to get… creative… with the water cooling components 😅
Got the same case, got two 360's in it. did need the radiator standoff for the memory :P 7800X3D 670e Master, 7900xtx. (i have the NON air version with SFX psu) Mayhems tubing does not have plasticizer b.t.w.
Yeah, I had just finished redoing the maintenance in my loop the other day. And part of it was re-pasting the gpu since I noticed the edge to hot spot temp was finally creeping up to about 10C of delta. _This time_ I made a point to apply the thermal paste on the part of the block that touches the gpu itself, as opposed to on the die, in part to make it easier to mitigate spreading when reapplying the block. My hot spot delta is now... 4. Four degrees C. And for reference, the original air cooler was allowing a 15C delta.
Glad you were able to take care of Phil's rig, not that you wouldn't be able to. I'm trying to put the OEM cooler back on my 3080 Ti FE but I'm missing some screws. Why are they so hard to find and buy?
Jay, I've got an idea for your Case design with the Fill-Hole at the top. Maybe this idea is impractical, but worth a shot. Instead of making it a single small hole, why not make it a bigger hole with a cover like the ones on desks. The cover would have one or two holes in it for the tubing (or just one hole). The cover could maybe even be interchangeable for different sized tubes (or you could include some foam to wrap around the tube to fill the gap to keep production costs cheaper rather than have different sized ones). Idk, just a thought I had. Cause what if someone needs their tubing to line up and it doesn't. Or maybe it doesn't line up and they also don't have enough room to run a small tube from the reservoir to the infill hole. With the desk-like cable management hole (simply fashioned as a tube insert with a plug at the top) they could rotate the cover to realign the hole to either line up properly, or to allow more length so they can make a small tube run from their reservoir to the infill hole. EDIT: The cover could also be designed to be a little countersunk to allow room for the plug on top so it doesn't interfere with the case cover
Oh, those are the Dracaena fittings. Yea, they're solid. Good to see that they finally have them packaged separately now. When I bought them, they were all in one bag so they were all rubbing against each other. Solid fittings. The same brand also has other solid fittings like 90 degree fittings
Finally some watercooling. Love it. That is not an SFF case, it's a large itx case or a small midi case. It Woild be nice to find out what the problem was though.
Man, I had a similar thing with my 1080ti hitting 90+ on the hotspot with a thick 280 rad and only today I took the gpu block off, remounted it with some nice fresh paste and low and behold it magically dropped 40c... A simple redo can solve lots of problems. Well done sorting it out 👌
Love that case. It's what I currently use with Lian Li fans. 4 140mm fans and a 120mm. 800 rpm and you never hear it. This case made me never want to use 120mm fans where i can help it. Running microATX in it. Thanks for the great content.
Have you considered the Jonsbo D31/41? It's my current case and I like it a lot. It's small enough to fit two 360 rads with T30 fans and, small enough so that it isn't a giant monster. The D31 doesn't support an ATX mb but the D41 does (it's taller) and has support for a built-in sensor panel
If that’s the Corsair blue coolant just keep an eye on it. I’m using the same blocks and my pc usually only runs on the weekends and I had to quit using the blue because my blocks were getting plugged with blue residue every couple months.
Having an O11 mini with 2 360 rads and a 280, this was cool to see another build in this case! I’m curious where temps settle out while gaming though, my water temp gets to 40°+ with a 7950x and a 3090 both water cooled.
Were you unable to find a suitable electrician's knockout/die cutter to make holes (of appropriate size) for the tubing without so much swarf? I've also seen a few sets (shop made?, not in stores) that include corner radius-ing dies to remove pointy corners.
I still say do a 5/8" rigid. D5 pump. The flow is so much better. I am willing to bet you will see significant temperature drops. I have tested the differences several times.
At 3:20, You mention that the typical soft clear tubing reacts negatively with glycol. I have some sections of silicone tubing that have lasted for years without significant discoloration/clouding/swelling by glycol and still retain excellent flexibility. In my experience, silicone is practically indestructible and endlessly reusable (though coils are needed in most bends). Also silicone has an extremely broad working temperature range of -50 to 200 degrees C. I no longer use a glycol mix for coolant since it is more costly, messier and not as effective as distilled water. The constant pressure heat capacity of ethylene glycol is 2.42 J/g K as compared to water which is about 4.20 J/g K. In effect, water has 4.2/2.42 = 1.74 or 74% more heat capacity than glycol for the same temperature/pressure. Since heat transfer is strongly dependent on temp differences (the bigger the temp difference coolant and block, the greater the transfer), using glycol will degrade the effectiveness of a water cooling system. This, since glycol having less heat capacity than the water it is proportionally mixed with, causes the mixture to overall rise in temperature more more per unit of heat added, resulting in diminishing the temp difference between the coolant and block, and result in diminished heat transfer. For this reason, I just use water (with a very small amount of a biocide) as a coolant. Of course, without glycol, I am theoretically more exposed to freezing issues. But where I live, if my system coolant freezes, I will have other bigger problems to contend with.
When I built my first open loop, I had to assemble my GPU several times to get everything correct. After a few months my hotspot started to get hot, I pulled the backplate and tightened the four screws around the core and it's been fine for over a year now. Kind of like going back and checking head bolts after 500 miles.
I want to build my 1st loop in a full size tower. What is in your shopping cart (tools and spare parts included) if you were to do a water cooled loop? Could you make a video of what you would purchase at microcenter if you were doing your 1st hard-loop build?
I had to use SignalRGB to get my T-force DDR5 to play nice with the rest of my RGB, PS I'm about a week away from doing my first custom look.. pretty stoked. O11 D EVO XL duel 420 Rads With big distro plat & pump combo... Super pumped....wish me luck..
I have the NR200 (non Max) using that same EKWB CPU/Pump combo unit but with dual slim rads and slim fans. Instead of the glass panel side, though, I have a mesh side panel which is also where the second rad mounts. It would be nice if more brands made a CPU pump/res/block combo unit, but for SFF custom loop builds there just isn't a lot to choose from.
Regarding the hole for the pasthrue, insted of just do AN whole, do like fan rails where you can move it from side to side maybe 5-7 cm long or something
I refuse to use anything compact after using a really cool case way back 10 year or more ago. Since then ive gotten bigger an bigger cases, except my daughters recent rebuild, but I bought it without checking dimensions. Which bit me in the arse installing the AOI i bought for it. I've not went Full Tower yet, but they've been tempting! figure when i go custom water cooling i will go Full tower
Watching all these struggles makes me think there must be a huge market for custom-constructed cases, based around a personalized design of where you want each component to be. It will probably be very expensive, but you get rid of all the frustrating fitting and choice-elimination of components that won't fit.
Jay. You are feeding the CPU with hot coolant out of the GPU. It will be better to feed from the GPU to the top RAD and from there to the CPU and bcak to the reservoir. From there it is cooled by the bottom rad before it goes to the GPU?
I got those same fitting a while ago. Nice but use hot glue on the ends just a little to make sure the tube doesn't fly out later.. Not the greatest but for what I paid no complaints.
It is incredibly ironic I just bought and used the same fitting in my build last week and thought the same thing about them being nice quality and relatively inexpensive!!
so you don't use your own brand thermal paste? My Hyte thicc i just installed had a similar thermal pattern. I used the liquid metal stuff so I cleaned it off and was wondering how well it would have worked stock.
What happen to your vacuum method of filling? I was actually really excited about that epiphany moment because I also do this in the heavy equipment side and never thought to do it with water cooling in a PC so small.
I added the link below for the fittings I used. Sorry for the delay.
Thank you for everything that you do Jay! Did you know you can fit 360 rads in the lian li 011 minis with some offset adapters?! I didn't know it when I built mine, but I wish I did!
Jay gimme ur old gen corsair one (🥺)
if I remember right, its the asus aura sync software for the ram. its the same type of ram that I am currently using in my system. but you probably have figured it out by now.
You guys sell any of the equipment that you use in the videos like full PC Towers? I see the links for parts and small things needed for Pc's but I see all these Towers in every video are they just ones you work on for customers or you ever think of selling them?
@Jayztwocents Out of curiosity, did you guys add a rear case fan?
Phill is so great at camera that he controls the camera using his mind and simultaneously talking to Jay.
I bet its Barnacules, running the camera.
@@redwingblackbird8306 Yeah the Phil's Peeling montages makes you forget that it is a 3 man band! :D
Glad Phil is in the videos more. Enjoying the newer content, a lot! Didn't realize how much height difference there is, between the two of you though. Lol
Straight out of LotR.
Isnt Jay like very very tall?
@@intifadayuri And Legolas & Faramir wasn't? Are you calling J a hobbit?
@@intifadayuri I think Phil is 5'2"-5'4" and Jay is 6'4"'-6'5".
@@Furball-8994 this! 👍
Jay, you REALLY need to wear eye protection when drilling. I made that mistake years ago and a metal shaving went into my eye. It took 3 months to work its way out. It's not worth potentially damaging your eyes just because you couldn't be bothered to put on safety glasses. Set the example, especially since you might have younger, inexperienced viewers.
Especially with a Unibit. It sprays metal shavings everywhere.
Happened to me too, luckily I was able to flush it within a few hours. It was pure pain the entire time. I wear safety glasses all the time now no matter how much they end up reducing my sight because those mofos scratch themselves to all buggery just looking at them.
Quitter. You could of went with it and called yourself Steel-Eyed Sam. It could of been your villain origin story. You could of got an bejeweled eyepatch. But no. Now you're a shill for big goggles.
@@tlv8555 This gotta be a troll right
@@triliner254 It's what's technically called a "joke".
Glad to see Phil get some video love.
I love it when you guys are just laughing and messing around, I don't know why but every time I go to help a friend build a new rig we always laugh our asses off too because things can easily go to the gutter so quickly... it makes it so funny and hilarious! I still love Phil smacking his head and cracking up😂❤ Jay, you are looking good! Hope You are feeling better.❤
I rock the O11 air mini. Love it. I have 2x280 rads in mine cooling my loop and it's been an amazing case for it's size. You will like it Phil, I give it my thumbs up.
Great to see love for the Air Mini! Hope it works better for Phil!
As a chrome plater, thank you Jay for immediately correcting your self and saying Nickel Plating.👌 people should learn the difference
it's nice to see you having fun during a build like this ^^
Can't wait for the thumbail/title changes this one's gonna go through
Is that what they are calling it now, "blowing skills?"
Lol it just changed as I was watching it
Lmao thats funny
welp
Phil Should've acted like he was getting attacked by a squid
The promise you gave us to create more content was not an empty one! Thanks
Entertainment,comedic timing, knowledge everything is perfect on his channel been a subscriber from 2014 have seen the evolution throughout still one of th best channel's to learn about computer's
I love my O11 Air Mini...it's an amazing case. Full ATX Motherboard, 240 Rad on the side. 3x120 Top, 2x140 bottom, 2x140 front and a rear exhaust.
i have a love hate relationship with mine. Full ATX mobo and a 280 AIO. I couldn't mount the rad on top because it hits the VRMs on my mobo, so I front mounted it but now I only have room for two 120mm fans on the top and bottom, I wanted three on the top and bottom but the rad is a few mm too long. I wish they had made the case about 6mm taller. I eventually finagled a 120mm x 20mm slim fan on the top so I now have my three fans on top. I really don't like that I need to use those fan cages for the front rad. I feel like it adds to much thickness so the screws are barely just long enough to go through the fans and fan cages to attach to the rad. I also don't understand why Lian Li made the 3.5 inch HDD cage removal in the regular 011 mini but non-removal in the 011 Air mini. I do have one 3.5 inch hard drive though. Also last but not least my 3.5 inch HDD runs pretty hot. I have Hard Drive Sentinel monitoring temps and that drive is constantly near 55-60C. My last little gripe is that the 3.5mm headphone jack died on my front/top panel for no reason. I got an RMA replacement front/top panel board from Lian Li but it's impossible to install unless i take the whole case apart.
Idk if I’d call the O11 Air Mini a small form factor case lol. It’s not huge, but it still can fit an eATX board and an NHD-15
I always love to watch jay and his team work together. They all look like they have so much fun!
Also went for the O11 Air Mini about a year ago - great case if a little quirky
Just a little heads up, any soft tubing has and leaches plasticizer.- black, white, clear, it doesn't matter. The "plasticizer" is what makes it soft. The black color just makes it so you can't see it. While you might not see it, it is slowly being leached out and contaminating your water line. From personal experience, dark tubing is actually worse because they don't have to hide how much plasticizer is being leached.
10 years of experience in the industry of testing for leachables from plastics btw. This is just another reason hard line acrylic (or better, metal) will always be the cleanest option.
@@Cosmodjinn Glass too I bet.
EPDM and Tygon as well?
@@akmarksman Glass gotta be the perfect option here. I mean, experiments done with highly reactive chemicals and stuff are done in glass!
@@timno9804 I'm trying to learn water cooling methods since my last build is my first water cooled. Why plastic tubing? Why not glass or copper/metal tubing instead? Is it just cost/ease of use/aesthetics?
I found a LTT video with copper tubing. Going to watch it, lol.
That thumbnail is wild
Reminds me of Scary Movie and their aquarium
Talking about Phil's hair was an amazing opener lmao. Love it ❤
I had a Cooler Master HAF 932 case. It did have an opening in the top for a reservoir fill tube. It also had some grommets at top in the back, in case you wanted to run cooling lines outside the case.
sick build, love the 2x240 rad setup top to bottom and front intake. simple.
phills energy is very enjoyable. love the vibe
that made me die of laughing when jay started doing the race car pit team wheel change XD
The same as being barefooted or flip flops...
It's all about being preventive and not having another health problem video.
When I had the same problem with my 3080, it was the thermal paste that had pumped out. Repasted it and all has been good since!
Honestly really enjoy this format of videos. Bros hanging out
More of this! You two goofing around on screen together is always great value 😅
I put the fill port on my O11d XL... sure makes it nice and easy to fill it, no need to work my way in... and after getting the air out, topping off was easy... take top panel off, and open the valve... no need to worry about fans right near my hand...
This is basically the idea I had in mind for my next system with this case and the water cooling loop. Thank you for doing the fitment check for me ;)
I only want to go with alphacool x-flow radiators, which will make the tubing runs really neat and short.
My plan is also to put the fill port into the top opening of the radiator port (since the ports go through the end tank on these rads so you have a thread on top and bottom) and do the same thing on the bottom rad for a drain port.
Love the O11 Air Mini, it's so versatile for it's small size. Mine has a ATX motherboard with a side 280mm rad (NZXT Z63 - rad on the inside/fans on Push - Some DiY required) and i can still use another 240mm rad on top (with Lian Li Offset kit if it's a chunky rad), all of this with an ATX motherboard. With 4x 140mm intake fans and 4x 120mm exaust ones, the case is soooooo cool, Phil will love it 😀
I love the little guy. More Jay&Phil videos. 🙂
I did hardline 14mm OD tube in my O11 Air Mini with 4x 240mm radiators, it’s my favorite pc build of all time and still loving it today! I’ll admit I did have to get… creative… with the water cooling components 😅
Got the same case, got two 360's in it. did need the radiator standoff for the memory :P 7800X3D 670e Master, 7900xtx. (i have the NON air version with SFX psu)
Mayhems tubing does not have plasticizer b.t.w.
Yeah, I had just finished redoing the maintenance in my loop the other day. And part of it was re-pasting the gpu since I noticed the edge to hot spot temp was finally creeping up to about 10C of delta. _This time_ I made a point to apply the thermal paste on the part of the block that touches the gpu itself, as opposed to on the die, in part to make it easier to mitigate spreading when reapplying the block.
My hot spot delta is now... 4. Four degrees C. And for reference, the original air cooler was allowing a 15C delta.
Glad you were able to take care of Phil's rig, not that you wouldn't be able to. I'm trying to put the OEM cooler back on my 3080 Ti FE but I'm missing some screws. Why are they so hard to find and buy?
Jay, I've got an idea for your Case design with the Fill-Hole at the top.
Maybe this idea is impractical, but worth a shot.
Instead of making it a single small hole, why not make it a bigger hole with a cover like the ones on desks.
The cover would have one or two holes in it for the tubing (or just one hole).
The cover could maybe even be interchangeable for different sized tubes (or you could include some foam to wrap around the tube to fill the gap to keep production costs cheaper rather than have different sized ones).
Idk, just a thought I had. Cause what if someone needs their tubing to line up and it doesn't. Or maybe it doesn't line up and they also don't have enough room to run a small tube from the reservoir to the infill hole. With the desk-like cable management hole (simply fashioned as a tube insert with a plug at the top) they could rotate the cover to realign the hole to either line up properly, or to allow more length so they can make a small tube run from their reservoir to the infill hole.
EDIT:
The cover could also be designed to be a little countersunk to allow room for the plug on top so it doesn't interfere with the case cover
We needed a Phil/Fill Montage!
Oh, those are the Dracaena fittings. Yea, they're solid. Good to see that they finally have them packaged separately now. When I bought them, they were all in one bag so they were all rubbing against each other. Solid fittings. The same brand also has other solid fittings like 90 degree fittings
Jay explaining that the metal shavings add additional traces and pathways and being beneficial. Phil passively listening "... Wait what?" haha
Matx is the best form factor! Room for proper parts and small enough to fit in the desk
I absolutely love the vibes in this video.
4:07 “The way she goes Bubs, the way she goes…” 😂
I've been running this case for the last year and a half. I love it. Though I want a full tower one day.
Finally some watercooling. Love it.
That is not an SFF case, it's a large itx case or a small midi case.
It Woild be nice to find out what the problem was though.
Man, I had a similar thing with my 1080ti hitting 90+ on the hotspot with a thick 280 rad and only today I took the gpu block off, remounted it with some nice fresh paste and low and behold it magically dropped 40c... A simple redo can solve lots of problems. Well done sorting it out 👌
FYI: openrgb has to be run as admin at least once to see RGB ram and then it will see it from there on.
You should look at a knock out to make those holes. Thet look very clean.
Loved this video! Ya''ll should do more "restore it to it's original glory" type builds. It's neat to see.
Love that case. It's what I currently use with Lian Li fans. 4 140mm fans and a 120mm. 800 rpm and you never hear it. This case made me never want to use 120mm fans where i can help it. Running microATX in it. Thanks for the great content.
Have you considered the Jonsbo D31/41?
It's my current case and I like it a lot. It's small enough to fit two 360 rads with T30 fans and, small enough so that it isn't a giant monster.
The D31 doesn't support an ATX mb but the D41 does (it's taller) and has support for a built-in sensor panel
Phil, the shaved head looks dope dude! Keep it forever.
Jay hope you are doing well. Love the content.
I have a mITX build in this same case and now I want to custom water cool it LOL. Looks clean!
It would be nice to see a follow up video on the EK cpu pump combo block to see if it is actually the pump failing or maybe something else.
If that’s the Corsair blue coolant just keep an eye on it. I’m using the same blocks and my pc usually only runs on the weekends and I had to quit using the blue because my blocks were getting plugged with blue residue every couple months.
For the Tforce Ram RGB, use Armory Crate to control. Havn't found any other software that can do it so far.
Having an O11 mini with 2 360 rads and a 280, this was cool to see another build in this case!
I’m curious where temps settle out while gaming though, my water temp gets to 40°+ with a 7950x and a 3090 both water cooled.
Were you unable to find a suitable electrician's knockout/die cutter to make holes (of appropriate size) for the tubing without so much swarf? I've also seen a few sets (shop made?, not in stores) that include corner radius-ing dies to remove pointy corners.
Good that the changes helped but curious what ambient temp was during the testing? The power consumed by CPU and GPU would be of interest as well.
I still say do a 5/8" rigid. D5 pump. The flow is so much better. I am willing to bet you will see significant temperature drops. I have tested the differences several times.
At 3:20, You mention that the typical soft clear tubing reacts negatively with glycol. I have some sections of silicone tubing that have lasted for years without significant discoloration/clouding/swelling by glycol and still retain excellent flexibility. In my experience, silicone is practically indestructible and endlessly reusable (though coils are needed in most bends). Also silicone has an extremely broad working temperature range of -50 to 200 degrees C.
I no longer use a glycol mix for coolant since it is more costly, messier and not as effective as distilled water. The constant pressure heat capacity of ethylene glycol is 2.42 J/g K as compared to water which is about 4.20 J/g K. In effect, water has 4.2/2.42 = 1.74 or 74% more heat capacity than glycol for the same temperature/pressure. Since heat transfer is strongly dependent on temp differences (the bigger the temp difference coolant and block, the greater the transfer), using glycol will degrade the effectiveness of a water cooling system. This, since glycol having less heat capacity than the water it is proportionally mixed with, causes the mixture to overall rise in temperature more more per unit of heat added, resulting in diminishing the temp difference between the coolant and block, and result in diminished heat transfer. For this reason, I just use water (with a very small amount of a biocide) as a coolant. Of course, without glycol, I am theoretically more exposed to freezing issues. But where I live, if my system coolant freezes, I will have other bigger problems to contend with.
JAY! Its possible to fit a ATX mobo, top&bottom 360 with a side 280 rad in an o11 mini. Thats my current build with a custom front distroplate
Phil and others always make for a great video.
When I built my first open loop, I had to assemble my GPU several times to get everything correct. After a few months my hotspot started to get hot, I pulled the backplate and tightened the four screws around the core and it's been fine for over a year now. Kind of like going back and checking head bolts after 500 miles.
I wish I had a funny friend like Phil 😊 he could bring his little pc to my house any time 😂
I want to build my 1st loop in a full size tower. What is in your shopping cart (tools and spare parts included) if you were to do a water cooled loop? Could you make a video of what you would purchase at microcenter if you were doing your 1st hard-loop build?
I had to use SignalRGB to get my T-force DDR5 to play nice with the rest of my RGB,
PS I'm about a week away from doing my first custom look.. pretty stoked. O11 D EVO XL duel 420 Rads With big distro plat & pump combo... Super pumped....wish me luck..
I have the NR200 (non Max) using that same EKWB CPU/Pump combo unit but with dual slim rads and slim fans. Instead of the glass panel side, though, I have a mesh side panel which is also where the second rad mounts. It would be nice if more brands made a CPU pump/res/block combo unit, but for SFF custom loop builds there just isn't a lot to choose from.
Hey Jay, just a tip on that step bit. Dewalt makes a spiral version that will be so much less effort.
Love the Phil builds!
Jay epic styling 😼
I have the same EK cpu-block/pump combo.
I think it’s fine.
Where can I get that Sensor panel version 6.9 software? Thanks.
Regarding the hole for the pasthrue, insted of just do AN whole, do like fan rails where you can move it from side to side maybe 5-7 cm long or something
I would say that there is no a bit too much light in the workshop. One extra 200W bulb is on.
I wonder why you have not been using the vacuum pump to do the draining and filling of your systems yet
I don't want to know THAT answer!🤣
I refuse to use anything compact after using a really cool case way back 10 year or more ago. Since then ive gotten bigger an bigger cases, except my daughters recent rebuild, but I bought it without checking dimensions. Which bit me in the arse installing the AOI i bought for it. I've not went Full Tower yet, but they've been tempting! figure when i go custom water cooling i will go Full tower
its so funny to see you guys side by side. I thought Phil was sitting at first.
im shocked that this channel STILL havent made a custom Phil port for any of the many custom loops
Trombone PC, amazing 🤩
Jay, what is the name of that Sensor Panel that is on his screen???
Made with AIDA64, they have a couple videos on how to set it up.
Glad you're mentioning the Chinese fittings. All my fittings are the compression no name fittings. They're great especially for the price
Jay at 5:29 "don't mind me, I'm just over here draining my tube"
Hey, which Software was this what showed the temperature, the graph and so on? Thanks in advance! 🙂✌🏻
Favorite channel by far
The hole for the top fill port in your case should be elongated so we have adjustability. Just a suggestion.
Happy fathers day everyone 🍺
Would it be possible to run from the GPU to the top rad, then top rad to CPU so there is at least some cool-down after the GPU?
Watching all these struggles makes me think there must be a huge market for custom-constructed cases, based around a personalized design of where you want each component to be. It will probably be very expensive, but you get rid of all the frustrating fitting and choice-elimination of components that won't fit.
Jay, I actually put an EATX in that case and have it hard tubed liquid cooled
Jay. You are feeding the CPU with hot coolant out of the GPU. It will be better to feed from the GPU to the top RAD and from there to the CPU and bcak to the reservoir. From there it is cooled by the bottom rad before it goes to the GPU?
That's not how it works.
I got those same fitting a while ago. Nice but use hot glue on the ends just a little to make sure the tube doesn't fly out later.. Not the greatest but for what I paid no complaints.
The Intro is pure gold!
It is incredibly ironic I just bought and used the same fitting in my build last week and thought the same thing about them being nice quality and relatively inexpensive!!
so you don't use your own brand thermal paste? My Hyte thicc i just installed had a similar thermal pattern. I used the liquid metal stuff so I cleaned it off and was wondering how well it would have worked stock.
what did you use for the monitoring software please? Bottom right corner. Ty
I have an O11 Air Mini, will be stating with that until I find a mini-pc I really like.
What happen to your vacuum method of filling? I was actually really excited about that epiphany moment because I also do this in the heavy equipment side and never thought to do it with water cooling in a PC so small.
Hey Phil, try running OpenRGB as administrator. That allowed me to detect my ram (so I could turn off the RGB).
Jay please do a video on how to clean a monitor, anytime I touch it I feel like I’m going to ruin it.