I have a John Deere 5210 that I changed the hydraulic/transmission oil in and used an aftermarket oil that was supposed to be compatible with John Deere specs. After I changed the oil the brakes dragged when the oil was cold. After a while I got tired of the brakes dragging so I spent the money for John Deere hygard oil and no more dragging!
I have a 4200 with the exact same problem. Penetrating oil and 15 minutes of your time will temporarily cure it but Mike is right about the lightweight spring. It just needs lubed and used and your good to go
I did the brakes on my old Yanmar. The linkage would stick, but the big problem was moisture and dirt getting into the breather pipe on the brake chamber. I pulled the covers and inside were standard drum style brakes. I cleaned the parts as best as I could, and put in new brake shoes, which were pretty cheap at Hoye tractor parts. Worked like a champ ever since. Not a Deere, but I encourage others to dive in and try to fix the problem themselves. I have always had better luck with that than any dealership. The local Yanmar dealer charged me thousands to fix a problem I didn't have. I went to the local shade tree guy like you described, and he fixed the whole tractor for less than $1k. Score.
I own a 4310 and had the same problem. Get underneath with an oil can and lubricate the linkage. If possible have someone in the seat pressing and releasing the brake peddle as you're oiling. You may need to replace the little return spring under there too.
Being treated dishonestly by a dealer, negates all the marketing/good that dealer has previously done! Honesty is truly the best policy and the best advertising! Best wishes.
About 7 years ago, had to have brakes on my 5103 Deere done. Was about $2000 at dealer. The brake discs were coming apart and causing a severe dragging. New disc's, retractor springs, etc. Had to pull axle housing on both sides to get to the problem parts. Seems like a common issue on this as well as other similar series Deere's. Hopefully the new parts were updated so problem doesn't happen again. So far, so good. I would think today the same job would be closer to $3000. Not a cheap date by any means. The brakes on that machine are used a lot, it's a 2wd gear drive machine. If it was a hydro, the brakes may not be relied on quite as much. Seems like the hydro tractors tend to stop on their own as soon as you take your foot off the pedal.
Hi Mike - Your video grabbed my attention. I had this EXACT problem on my 2004 JD 4410. In fact, I watched the very video you note and did the fix myself. I had noticed last November (I live up in central NH) one tire was dragging in light snow. I fixed it a year ago on a very cold day- as directed in the video -with some lub and it has worked just great since. I am a novice and not mechanical at all - I can encourage your viewer to go for it; he is welcome to message me. I was unsure but did it for the cost of the spray lub. Thanks for encouraging him and others to research and do this. Jim
I haven't work on deere brakes but I've done brakes on my 1960s allis chalmers d12 that took a lot of time and I helped my father replace brakes on his 1720 ford tractor they were about 1000 bucks for parts but it took 4000 hrs to wear out the brakes
Tractor Mike I love the fact that you said they actually wrote you an estimate for basically replacing everything instead of basically trying to diagnose exactly what the fault is I was like that's definitely what people do that don't know what they're doing no honestly I normally work on semi trucks myself then that's always very simple because it's a redundant system a multiple safeties tied together just the fact that somebody would have a problem diagnosing brakes and they work on your brakes that makes me think they should never work on your brakes if they have a problem diagnosing it
Really enjoy your videos Mike. I have the same 4310 tractor as noted in your video. I purchased the tractor after the center housing broke and the tractor was in two pieces. Both brake actuator cams broke also. The rear axle housings must be removed to access the brakes, which is fairly labor intensive. Unless this dealer disassembled the tractor and inspected all of the components, they are probably quoting every possible piece that may have damage or wear. At the mentioned parts price, they may have included the axle housings since the brake actuator cams pass through the housing. After repairing my 4310, I would highly doubt that all of the parts, if any, need replacing. Most likely, the actuator cams shafts and the pass through holes need to be cleaned, lightly sand the corrosion and lubricated. New seals may be the only actual parts needed. But the dealer is most likely going to quote any part that may show signs of wear in order to cover their butts and increase their profit. Just my two cents worth. Good luck to Michael with his repairs.
I've never replaced brakes on a tractor either but I've done brake jobs on dozens of cars and trucks for friends and family. I never charge labor but I can do the work that a shop quoted for $800-$1000 with premium parts for around $300 or less in a couple of hours. Take Mike's advice and if you are not able to do the work yourself, find someone who's familiar with it that can do it for significantly less.
Simple answer to the fellow who got the $5700 quote: Run hard and fast away from that dealership, don’t ever go there again, and tell everyone and anyone you can that this dealership tried to rake you for an outrageous service bill. They don’t deserve to be in business.
They are likely quoting to split the transmission to replace all of the parts of the wet brakes, ...that likely don't all need to be replaced. Lube all of the brake linkages, shaft at the trans, and maybe replace the shaft seal (if possible from the outside), return spring too.
Cracks me up that there are 5 thumbs down on this video🤦🏻♂️. Must be the five people that work at the shop of 5,700 reasons not to go there🤣 Absolute respect Mike🙏🏼. Great job, Thank You💪🏼
I had a 4200-- that I bought used ( at a JD dealership) with about 120 hours and wanted to add grapple and didn't want to put the money in a 3rd function so opted to buy new (from the same dealer-and sell my old one privately. I had them service the 4200 about every year for the last few years I owned it. The last year was likely $3000 in repairs to get it running Including a similar brake problem-- dragging. Finally an old timer at the dealership knew of an obscure fix -- ( under the dash- about a $30 part) (now at ~~1400 hours) I've never been so disappointed in the customer service in the decline of customer service, transparency and attitude of the store. I bought a new 3033R and again so disappointed that I sold it a year later and bought a Kioti. I was loyal enough to buy twice- but never again.
So from a technician point of view..may get fired for saying how this is however You can use penetrating oil to actually fix the issue I will spray the outside area of the cam and use a hammer to shock the metal so that it weeps into the housing It doesn't take much and then using fluid film afterwards to prevent the issue. I'll then actuate the cam by hand and can see it go forward and backwards... then use the pedal to see if it's further If it's the linkage inside the tunnel. I'll remove the components and clean them.. they use a plastic bushing however I haven't had luck with those fixing the problem either new or re used. I don't re install them.. there is a grease zerk on each side. A few pumps to fill the cavity and it'll last a look life time if greased. I live in the NE so you're mileage may vary. Remember too guys technicians get scrutinized for charts and graphs being not being 100% for the month.. if they are off they are either fired, or it's held against them other ways We only make a slim portion of that hourly rate. It's all corporate America everyone...it's a sad but true statement
Mike thanks; what you're saying about those forums and youtube folks are the absolute correct way to go in these times. I believe I can actually change out a fuel pump on a used space shuttle.
All right, that eye reaction was priceless. I spit my tea out all over my desk. I use my tractor all the time and I never use the brakes, except the parking brake. I found this kind of odd that I never hit the brake pedal. The one time I did hit the brake pedal was to light up the brake lights for show at the mailbox on the road once. Its fun to have working rear lights on my tractor, I always had old crap that had no lights, was just havin fun with my working tail lights. One day they will be broken also. I always feel sorry for people who can't fix things for them self and always wonder how much would it cost to have a pro fix something. Who thumbs down this? YIKES
Not a tractor mechanic. I am just the son of a car mechanic that raced and wrenched on sports cars for 25 years. By default, I will admit I am the mechanic for some vintage tractors we use on our small farm. That being said, I think it is pretty normal to see dealerships of all kinds tend to be overly cautious when it comes to brakes. I think the default a lot of times is to throw the kitchen sink at them, which in this case is a pretty big sink. I would agree with your do-it-yourself approach and the tools available out there. Even when I take on what I think should be a pretty easy repair, I normally will review it on RUclips first. It seems someone has made a video about just about everything. And if it needs something substantial, as the $3700 part # suggested, there are always salvage yards. There are a lot of good used parts out there and what an excellent way to recycle. I think you are delivering some good advice. And remember - Brakes only slow you down. ;-)
Good advice Mike. I have a friend with an old Ford 2120 that needed brakes. I put them on for him but parts were $1200 I think. Wet disc brakes that resembled a clutch pack inside an automatic transmission a series of friction discs and solid metal discs that went between them. It wasn’t the hardest thing to do but I suggested to him to drain the hydraulic/transmission oil because there was some metal to metal ware. The letter you read sounds more like sticky linkage though.
Good advice as always there Mike. I do a lot of research on the internet, manufacture websites, & of course RUclips when it comes to repairs. Including the, ask the local group of farmers who to talk with for repairs.
Talk to the techs at the dealership most of them do work on the side for a lot less then the dealer charges. But as Mike said you can find anything on RUclips.
Dang I didn't notice that this is an older post. STOP right there! Check all linkages for rust and lubricate with penetrating oil. Does your pedal stick in the applied position? You may be able to just pull it back up to unstick them. My 4400 is doing the same thing and the 4310 has real similar parts. Oh ,fore, I forget there are grease fittings way up under the dash where the pedals come from. I can't just pull up on the pedal because of the play in all the linkages. Those linkages go up and over and down and through bellcranks, etc... leastways on mine. Mine is simply hanging up in the linkage. With a tiny amount of play here and there and the fact that the brakes don't move much anyway, it's the likiest problem. Trace all the linkages, get a quality penetrating lube, and soak it all. Don't just use WD40 it isnt good at lubricating. The film it leaves is meant to repel water. When mine stick because I forget not to use them I have to crawl under the machine to get to the sticky parts which are way up almost out of reach. I shoot PB Blaster at the parts out of reach while working the linkage rod. PITA everything else is loose and free the return spring works good with the majority of the linkage but not way up inside in back under the seat. I hope you really don't need a real brake job. Tractor Mike is right that price is likely for replacing the brake rotors and discs. That is a very expensive proposition. Those brakes are wet brakes they should last forever. On mine I never did use the brakes much so, they hang up if I use them. I have gotten used to not braking for anything. I don't use the parking brake either. When I have time, the fenders are coming off for access to the parts that are the culprits on my tractor.
Your situation with the letter makes the case for contacting an Independent Field Service Mechanic. Individual mechanics are present in many areas of the country and have a dollar rate per hour of less than the local dealer. Local equipment dealers and their shops are primarily there for in-warranty work. This situation of work is for an older, out-of-warranty tractor. Also, I would avoid the use of the term "Shade Tree Tractor Mechanic" as there are those guys around also. But those guys often do not have the special tools, diagnostic software tools, a service truck with a lift, connections to service parts suppliers, or knowledge to handle the total problem. Plus, if a guy makes his liviing as an independent he likely has a lifetime of experience and will not be a simple "parts replacer".
Never messed with any deer brakes but I did help my pawpal split a 1949 allis chalmers C tractor because one of the rear brakes were locked up and that same side brake pedal didn’t move. It seemed like it took the whole summer to get it done but actually it was just a couple weeks. Can’t say what it cost him back then money wise but that man never spent a single dollar that he could of saved. I once watched him heat a railroad spike till it was red hot and then he hammered that big old spike into a brand new hinge for the cellar door. The pin for it was a 16 penny nail he hammered flat on both ends after installing so the pin couldn’t be tapped out. Probably did all that because the hardware store wanted $5-for a large door hinge. Wish I could of inherited even half of his resourcefulness and self reliant genes. 👍
You know what tractor Mike I think that was great advice actually referring them to another RUclipsr that is already made a video of it genius brother genius
Did my brakes on a Massey 1540 40 hp tractor. Replaced wet disc brakes which are just like a clutch in an automatic transmission. Parts where $1400, I was repainting it but still took an extra 2-3 hours once the tins where off for paint. Since it’s green parts being $4,000, and $2,000 for labor would be about right. My tractor made it 4500 hours before brakes burned up, it was pulling carts around on a tree farm before I got it.
We had to completely rebuild the brakes on my 5310 I bought from a golf course. They had been putting in the wrong Hydraulic fluid for years and it disinterred the pads so they overheated and cracked the main disk. About $2500 later and they worked fine. I did have our Auto-mechanics teacher at the high school do it as a class project.
$2000 for a JD 2305 brake job from the dealer. The brakes were damaged by driving it after the steel link was bent thus applying brakes all the time. Made a mess on the magnetic filter too. Another knuckle-head did the damage and I got the bill
I need to mention that the parts are around $200. I did clean the filter but not the brakes. I just use it without the brakes and don’t disengage the hydrostatic transmission
I work for Deere dealership, and I have replaced brakes on small 5000 series tractor, and the parts are not cheap. The owner of the tractor ran the tractor with a hydraulic system contaminated with the and let the tractor sit for about 3 months and the tried to use it. When can into the shop he had burned the brakes disc and warped the brake steel. It was about 6,000 in parts and labor, that also includes removing both top plate and transmission cover and flushing out all the water.
I am by no means a mechanic but I was able to replace the brakes on an old Massey Ferguson TO 20 by myself. It really was not that difficult. I think it cost me $40 in parts. I found a complete how to video on RUclips from a guy in Australia who not only showed me what to do but gave me the confidence to do it.
My best friend bought a well used Bobcat RTV type machine with bucket / forks on the front. Apparently There is a little pin that breaks and when it does they stick on. Well the prior owner continued to drive it while the brakes were stuck on. It was Over $10k for the full repair.
It's not necessarily shake down the customer, but price it so high that the customer won't pay that, and if they will, it'll make it worth the dealerships time. Personally, I'd just prefer the dealership said they rather not do it. Although I guess if that got back up the corporate ladder then the dealership would get spanked pretty hard.
I have you normally just take the rear tire off and then the hub are the outer part of the hub normally has to come off and most of the time tractor brakes are going to be basically inside of that so a lot of times you're going to have to pull that inner part of that hub
We have a few Menonites in the area who do honest tractor repair work & know how to save a $, but be a little careful because sometimes they'll reuse parts that you might prefer to be replaced.
This tractor has wet hydraulic brakes. Early on the brakes were known for sticking and the hydraulic oil was changed from regular Hy-Gard to low vicosity Hy-Gard. This seemed to help stop the sticking.
I'm a newbie with using a tractor (JD2025R). A bunch of the JD parts when I look up the price is ridiculous to me. The mold injected panels for the sides are around 500 each and the hood is around 700. Molded parts like that are not that expensive to manufacture.
I thought Kubota Springfield Missouri did me a little dirty last Spring. I had taken the shifter off of the transmission of a 2000 Kubota L2500 (so that I could inspect the gears). When I tried to put it back together, I couldn't get the center shifting fork to slide into proper alignment. So I went to the dealership to ask them if I needed to do something specific to get this shifting fork to slide. The mechanic told me that he thought that one of the tiny spring loaded steel balls in the shifting mechanism seemed to be gunked up with sealant that had dripped down on it. He said he could clean it and get it working for me. When I returned to pick it up, they have me a bill that was over $300. I was shocked. But when I tried to slide the shifting fork, it still wouldn't slide. So I pointed this out to the mechanic. He said, oh, well you have to move the other two forks into a certain position before the center one will slide. That was the entire problem. If he had just told me that in the beginning, I wouldn't have needed anything else. Certainly not a very expensive steel ball cleaning that didn't need to be done in the first place. I am reluctant to ever go back there for anything.
It sounds like a dealer that didn't want to do the work. Back when my dad owned an auto restoration business if he had a potential job come in the door that he really didn't want to do he would quote them 2-3X higher hoping they would balk and not come back. If they agreed the extra $$ made it worth the added pain or time it took up one of his bays. My parents are in a historic district and contractors do the same thing there because dealing with the redtape is such a PITA. Brock repointing that would normally be $3k becomes $10k.
$5700 for a brake job on a tractor is totally outrageous! Completely "preditor" gouging! I have never, EVER spent $5700 TOTAL on ALL of the dozens of vehicles I have owned in my (near) 74 years of maintaining cars, trucks and tractors. My response to this is...."Where's the noose?"
Sounds like they gave you a full replacement of a tractor brake job , if everything is replaced NEW. As to the problem it may only be a smaller cost , but the top limit is $5700.
First thing I do when I buy a tractor is get all the available manuals for it, being a mechanic and engineer as well as a farmer, the last place I would go is a dealer unless there is no way I can't do it myself
I worked at a dealership for years (not tractors) trucks. When a customer comes in for work at the dealer they expect expert advice and a guarantee. Any time I did what you suggested a back yard guy would do I got stung. Like you said one seized shaft or one loose stretched or broken spring will cause that problem. At times I did the cheap easy fix and all was good. The guy left calling me a hero. LOL. 6 months later when the shaft seized again because water was still getting in through a weak shaft seal or the spring on the other side let go and now the other side was bad, well guess who went from hero to zero. Thats why dealers always want to do a complete job with a guarantee they can stand behind. The original brakes lasted a lot of hours, the replacement ones will last a lot also. Or you can fiddle with them every year for as long as you own the machine.
There's a reason why they're called "Stealerships" !!!!!!!💸💸💸 And before somebody gets on here and says all dealerships aren't like that that's a lie that is a hundred percent Ally they're worried about driving up every ticket to the highest amount that they can when they if they just really focused on Customer Loyalty loyalty loyalty loyalty loyalty, customers would come back all the time and they could potentially make a lot more money over the long haul which would sustain the business. But as we all know that's not the current thinking it's f*** them get as much as you can send them out the door because you already know they're not going to come back. And just as a word to the wise if you're out of town and your car breaks down or something like that you are the prime candidate to be raped & taken to the cleaners on more than likely will be a half assed repair. I'm just telling you right now I've seen it hundreds of times and heard about others thousands of times.
I would question what parts they are replacing. My guess is they are cheating the customer by replacing parts that are not broken, worn, or damaged. Also, I would call the Better Business Bureau and file a report and ask them to review the estimate. I was an auto repair mechanic for 25+ years and this is the kind of crap that gave us a bad name. Good luck Sir
Many of the newer tractors have very week iron in there cast mainly from where the tractor is forged from overseas with that being said crossing the ocean salt and engineers that don’t think like a farmer anymore forgets about grease serts oil bushes proper lube points and of course moisture and salt makes rust So when you buy a tractor today make sure you use it and don’t let it set around to long it will start to seize up on you or even letting it set outside and not under a cover from rain look out electrical problems starts to happen these new tractors can’t handle it like the old ones can also I’m the mechanic that jd and IH and mf dealers couldn’t stand because just that story you have here and I could write a book about it one was a kabota dealer quoted $3000. To split and repair a hydro drive come to find out it was just a $95 cent key way worked out of the shaft my time at $ 100 an hour 3 hours plus new oil and filter gaskets was around $500 they guy was mad and went to his dealer and of course they called me and told me I void the warranty on his tractor so he got mad at me just can’t make this stuff up
I work at a John Deere dealer and i think that this dealer made a price too high to avoid having to do this job. They're probably booked with all winter preparations and the last harvests remaining (at least in Quebec that is the case for most dealers). Having a technician spend 2 or 3 days on this kind of job is not ideal. I'm not trying to excuse the fact that 5700$ US is scandalous, just giving a little insight as to maybe why this happened. Good day!
There's more to the story than we are being told, probably the old while you have it apart thing, dealers might be unscrupulous to be sure, but no way would they leave a paper trail you could take to court.
For $5700 I would think about buying some tools and become a tractor mechanic like Mike said. Do it your self. $5700 dollars to learn how it works. Cheap education. Save money the next time it’s broke.
But it's not no $5,700 job I can't see it taking 50 hours last time I did it myself and this was on a 1975 7-series international so a pretty big ass tractor it only took me just a few hours
Find a heavy equipment mechanic its not a hard job if their wet disk inboard brakes.They aren't that bad to do .Question is why did they wear out something is misadjusted or brakes were dragging should really never have to be changed unless your using them to steer tractor constantly??
That guy sure need to look for someone much cheaper to work on his tractor and get it back in tip top shape without being robbed by the person who gave him that estimate. I would permanently park that unit rather than spend that much money to repair it, and the estimate is too outrageous.
I have worked on heavy equipment since I was a kid not much on tractors but a lot of times you can get brake parts a lot cheaper than factory a truck brake shop might be able to reline those a lot cheaper then factory parts you are not fixing a race car thats if it even needs brake shoes also I never use wd40 go to Walmart and buy motorkote its way better.
Yeah I was just thinking if somebody has a problem diagnosing your brakes you should never have them work on your brakes I'm just saying that that's that's just all kinds of bad
Self admitted, you may not be a John Deere brake job expert however, you did a damn good job of steering this gentleman in the right direction. 👍🚜
I have a John Deere 5210 that I changed the hydraulic/transmission oil in and used an aftermarket oil that was supposed to be compatible with John Deere specs. After I changed the oil the brakes dragged when the oil was cold. After a while I got tired of the brakes dragging so I spent the money for John Deere hygard oil and no more dragging!
I have a 4200 with the exact same problem. Penetrating oil and 15 minutes of your time will temporarily cure it but Mike is right about the lightweight spring. It just needs lubed and used and your good to go
Me too. Cost me a can of penetrating oil.
I did the brakes on my old Yanmar. The linkage would stick, but the big problem was moisture and dirt getting into the breather pipe on the brake chamber. I pulled the covers and inside were standard drum style brakes. I cleaned the parts as best as I could, and put in new brake shoes, which were pretty cheap at Hoye tractor parts. Worked like a champ ever since. Not a Deere, but I encourage others to dive in and try to fix the problem themselves. I have always had better luck with that than any dealership. The local Yanmar dealer charged me thousands to fix a problem I didn't have. I went to the local shade tree guy like you described, and he fixed the whole tractor for less than $1k. Score.
I own a 4310 and had the same problem. Get underneath with an oil can and lubricate the linkage. If possible have someone in the seat pressing and releasing the brake peddle as you're oiling. You may need to replace the little return spring under there too.
Thanks Mike. Can't believe you didn't seize the opportunity to tell this gentleman to spray WD-40 on his brake linkage 😀
Being treated dishonestly by a dealer, negates all the marketing/good that dealer has previously done! Honesty is truly the best policy and the best advertising! Best wishes.
About 7 years ago, had to have brakes on my 5103 Deere done. Was about $2000 at dealer. The brake discs were coming apart and causing a severe dragging. New disc's, retractor springs, etc. Had to pull axle housing on both sides to get to the problem parts. Seems like a common issue on this as well as other similar series Deere's. Hopefully the new parts were updated so problem doesn't happen again. So far, so good. I would think today the same job would be closer to $3000. Not a cheap date by any means. The brakes on that machine are used a lot, it's a 2wd gear drive machine. If it was a hydro, the brakes may not be relied on quite as much. Seems like the hydro tractors tend to stop on their own as soon as you take your foot off the pedal.
Hi Mike - Your video grabbed my attention. I had this EXACT problem on my 2004 JD 4410. In fact, I watched the very video you note and did the fix myself.
I had noticed last November (I live up in central NH) one tire was dragging in light snow. I fixed it a year ago on a very cold day- as directed in the video -with some lub and it has worked just great since.
I am a novice and not mechanical at all - I can encourage your viewer to go for it; he is welcome to message me. I was unsure but did it for the cost of the spray lub. Thanks for encouraging him and others to research and do this. Jim
I love this guy! My novice self appreciates Mike’s expertise💪🏼. Absolute respect!🙏🏼
I haven't work on deere brakes but I've done brakes on my 1960s allis chalmers d12 that took a lot of time and I helped my father replace brakes on his 1720 ford tractor they were about 1000 bucks for parts but it took 4000 hrs to wear out the brakes
Tractor Mike I love the fact that you said they actually wrote you an estimate for basically replacing everything instead of basically trying to diagnose exactly what the fault is I was like that's definitely what people do that don't know what they're doing no honestly I normally work on semi trucks myself then that's always very simple because it's a redundant system a multiple safeties tied together just the fact that somebody would have a problem diagnosing brakes and they work on your brakes that makes me think they should never work on your brakes if they have a problem diagnosing it
Really enjoy your videos Mike. I have the same 4310 tractor as noted in your video. I purchased the tractor after the center housing broke and the tractor was in two pieces. Both brake actuator cams broke also. The rear axle housings must be removed to access the brakes, which is fairly labor intensive. Unless this dealer disassembled the tractor and inspected all of the components, they are probably quoting every possible piece that may have damage or wear. At the mentioned parts price, they may have included the axle housings since the brake actuator cams pass through the housing. After repairing my 4310, I would highly doubt that all of the parts, if any, need replacing. Most likely, the actuator cams shafts and the pass through holes need to be cleaned, lightly sand the corrosion and lubricated. New seals may be the only actual parts needed. But the dealer is most likely going to quote any part that may show signs of wear in order to cover their butts and increase their profit. Just my two cents worth. Good luck to Michael with his repairs.
I've never replaced brakes on a tractor either but I've done brake jobs on dozens of cars and trucks for friends and family. I never charge labor but I can do the work that a shop quoted for $800-$1000 with premium parts for around $300 or less in a couple of hours. Take Mike's advice and if you are not able to do the work yourself, find someone who's familiar with it that can do it for significantly less.
Simple answer to the fellow who got the $5700 quote: Run hard and fast away from that dealership, don’t ever go there again, and tell everyone and anyone you can that this dealership tried to rake you for an outrageous service bill. They don’t deserve to be in business.
As goes for every other stealerlership I've ever been to.
They are likely quoting to split the transmission to replace all of the parts of the wet brakes, ...that likely don't all need to be replaced. Lube all of the brake linkages, shaft at the trans, and maybe replace the shaft seal (if possible from the outside), return spring too.
Cracks me up that there are 5 thumbs down on this video🤦🏻♂️. Must be the five people that work at the shop of 5,700 reasons not to go there🤣
Absolute respect Mike🙏🏼.
Great job, Thank You💪🏼
Dealerships are a ripoff,I've never seen one that was not.
8 months later there's only 11. Not too bad when there's a lot of dealer shop workers on youtube. ;)
I had a 4200-- that I bought used ( at a JD dealership) with about 120 hours and wanted to add grapple and didn't want to put the money in a 3rd function so opted to buy new (from the same dealer-and sell my old one privately. I had them service the 4200 about every year for the last few years I owned it. The last year was likely $3000 in repairs to get it running Including a similar brake problem-- dragging. Finally an old timer at the dealership knew of an obscure fix -- ( under the dash- about a $30 part) (now at ~~1400 hours) I've never been so disappointed in the customer service in the decline of customer service, transparency and attitude of the store. I bought a new 3033R and again so disappointed that I sold it a year later and bought a Kioti. I was loyal enough to buy twice- but never again.
So from a technician point of view..may get fired for saying how this is however
You can use penetrating oil to actually fix the issue
I will spray the outside area of the cam and use a hammer to shock the metal so that it weeps into the housing
It doesn't take much and then using fluid film afterwards to prevent the issue. I'll then actuate the cam by hand and can see it go forward and backwards... then use the pedal to see if it's further
If it's the linkage inside the tunnel. I'll remove the components and clean them.. they use a plastic bushing however I haven't had luck with those fixing the problem either new or re used.
I don't re install them.. there is a grease zerk on each side. A few pumps to fill the cavity and it'll last a look life time if greased. I live in the NE so you're mileage may vary.
Remember too guys technicians get scrutinized for charts and graphs being not being 100% for the month.. if they are off they are either fired, or it's held against them other ways
We only make a slim portion of that hourly rate. It's all corporate America everyone...it's a sad but true statement
Mike thanks; what you're saying about those forums and youtube folks are the absolute correct way to go in these times. I believe I can actually change out a fuel pump on a used space shuttle.
All right, that eye reaction was priceless. I spit my tea out all over my desk. I use my tractor all the time and I never use the brakes, except the parking brake. I found this kind of odd that I never hit the brake pedal. The one time I did hit the brake pedal was to light up the brake lights for show at the mailbox on the road once. Its fun to have working rear lights on my tractor, I always had old crap that had no lights, was just havin fun with my working tail lights. One day they will be broken also. I always feel sorry for people who can't fix things for them self and always wonder how much would it cost to have a pro fix something. Who thumbs down this? YIKES
Great advise, Great job, Thanks Mike for being there for us!
As always Mike, great advise. This is why I really enjoy your videos. Please keep up the good work. Have a great Thanksgiving.
Not a tractor mechanic. I am just the son of a car mechanic that raced and wrenched on sports cars for 25 years. By default, I will admit I am the mechanic for some vintage tractors we use on our small farm. That being said, I think it is pretty normal to see dealerships of all kinds tend to be overly cautious when it comes to brakes. I think the default a lot of times is to throw the kitchen sink at them, which in this case is a pretty big sink. I would agree with your do-it-yourself approach and the tools available out there. Even when I take on what I think should be a pretty easy repair, I normally will review it on RUclips first. It seems someone has made a video about just about everything. And if it needs something substantial, as the $3700 part # suggested, there are always salvage yards. There are a lot of good used parts out there and what an excellent way to recycle. I think you are delivering some good advice. And remember - Brakes only slow you down. ;-)
Good advice Mike. I have a friend with an old Ford 2120 that needed brakes. I put them on for him but parts were $1200 I think. Wet disc brakes that resembled a clutch pack inside an automatic transmission a series of friction discs and solid metal discs that went between them. It wasn’t the hardest thing to do but I suggested to him to drain the hydraulic/transmission oil because there was some metal to metal ware. The letter you read sounds more like sticky linkage though.
Good advice as always there Mike. I do a lot of research on the internet, manufacture websites, & of course RUclips when it comes to repairs. Including the, ask the local group of farmers who to talk with for repairs.
I've got to admit...that thumbnail is the best.
Talk to the techs at the dealership most of them do work on the side for a lot less then the dealer charges. But as Mike said you can find anything on RUclips.
Dang I didn't notice that this is an older post. STOP right there! Check all linkages for rust and lubricate with penetrating oil.
Does your pedal stick in the applied position? You may be able to just pull it back up to unstick them.
My 4400 is doing the same thing and the 4310 has real similar parts. Oh ,fore, I forget there are grease fittings way up under the dash where the pedals come from.
I can't just pull up on the pedal because of the play in all the linkages. Those linkages go up and over and down and through bellcranks, etc... leastways on mine. Mine is simply hanging up in the linkage. With a tiny amount of play here and there and the fact that the brakes don't move much anyway, it's the likiest problem. Trace all the linkages, get a quality penetrating lube, and soak it all. Don't just use WD40 it isnt good at lubricating. The film it leaves is meant to repel water. When mine stick because I forget not to use them I have to crawl under the machine to get to the sticky parts which are way up almost out of reach. I shoot PB Blaster at the parts out of reach while working the linkage rod. PITA everything else is loose and free the return spring works good with the majority of the linkage but not way up inside in back under the seat. I hope you really don't need a real brake job.
Tractor Mike is right that price is likely for replacing the brake rotors and discs. That is a very expensive proposition. Those brakes are wet brakes they should last forever.
On mine I never did use the brakes much so, they hang up if I use them. I have gotten used to not braking for anything. I don't use the parking brake either. When I have time, the fenders are coming off for access to the parts that are the culprits on my tractor.
Your situation with the letter makes the case for contacting an Independent Field Service Mechanic. Individual mechanics are present in many areas of the country and have a dollar rate per hour of less than the local dealer. Local equipment dealers and their shops are primarily there for in-warranty work. This situation of work is for an older, out-of-warranty tractor. Also, I would avoid the use of the term "Shade Tree Tractor Mechanic" as there are those guys around also. But those guys often do not have the special tools, diagnostic software tools, a service truck with a lift, connections to service parts suppliers, or knowledge to handle the total problem. Plus, if a guy makes his liviing as an independent he likely has a lifetime of experience and will not be a simple "parts replacer".
Never messed with any deer brakes but I did help my pawpal split a 1949 allis chalmers C tractor because one of the rear brakes were locked up and that same side brake pedal didn’t move.
It seemed like it took the whole summer to get it done but actually it was just a couple weeks.
Can’t say what it cost him back then money wise but that man never spent a single dollar that he could of saved.
I once watched him heat a railroad spike till it was red hot and then he hammered that big old spike into a brand new hinge for the cellar door. The pin for it was a 16 penny nail he hammered flat on both ends after installing so the pin couldn’t be tapped out.
Probably did all that because the hardware store wanted $5-for a large door hinge.
Wish I could of inherited even half of his resourcefulness and self reliant genes. 👍
You know what tractor Mike I think that was great advice actually referring them to another RUclipsr that is already made a video of it genius brother genius
Excellent advice, Mike! Spot on! Cheers!
I've done brakes on my 2N Ford. About $250 for parts, seals and materials. But that greeeeen paint can run you a bunch more, I hear.
Tractor Mike: you should consider a second career as an actor doing TV commercials. That facial expression was priceless 🤣.
Did my brakes on a Massey 1540 40 hp tractor. Replaced wet disc brakes which are just like a clutch in an automatic transmission. Parts where $1400, I was repainting it but still took an extra 2-3 hours once the tins where off for paint. Since it’s green parts being $4,000, and $2,000 for labor would be about right. My tractor made it 4500 hours before brakes burned up, it was pulling carts around on a tree farm before I got it.
We had to completely rebuild the brakes on my 5310 I bought from a golf course. They had been putting in the wrong Hydraulic fluid for years and it disinterred the pads so they overheated and cracked the main disk. About $2500 later and they worked fine. I did have our Auto-mechanics teacher at the high school do it as a class project.
$2000 for a JD 2305 brake job from the dealer. The brakes were damaged by driving it after the steel link was bent thus applying brakes all the time. Made a mess on the magnetic filter too. Another knuckle-head did the damage and I got the bill
I need to mention that the parts are around $200. I did clean the filter but not the brakes. I just use it without the brakes and don’t disengage the hydrostatic transmission
I work for Deere dealership, and I have replaced brakes on small 5000 series tractor, and the parts are not cheap. The owner of the tractor ran the tractor with a hydraulic system contaminated with the and let the tractor sit for about 3 months and the tried to use it. When can into the shop he had burned the brakes disc and warped the brake steel. It was about 6,000 in parts and labor, that also includes removing both top plate and transmission cover and flushing out all the water.
Great advice
I am by no means a mechanic but I was able to replace the brakes on an old Massey Ferguson TO 20 by myself. It really was not that difficult. I think it cost me $40 in parts. I found a complete how to video on RUclips from a guy in Australia who not only showed me what to do but gave me the confidence to do it.
My best friend bought a well used Bobcat RTV type machine with bucket / forks on the front. Apparently There is a little pin that breaks and when it does they stick on. Well the prior owner continued to drive it while the brakes were stuck on. It was Over $10k for the full repair.
Sounds like the JD dealer didn't want to fix the problem, rather shake down the customer.
It's not necessarily shake down the customer, but price it so high that the customer won't pay that, and if they will, it'll make it worth the dealerships time. Personally, I'd just prefer the dealership said they rather not do it. Although I guess if that got back up the corporate ladder then the dealership would get spanked pretty hard.
Yes Deere has a great web site , even legacy tractor. 350c etc. dealers are always high as they will be replacing every part they can.
I have you normally just take the rear tire off and then the hub are the outer part of the hub normally has to come off and most of the time tractor brakes are going to be basically inside of that so a lot of times you're going to have to pull that inner part of that hub
HAPPY THANKSGIVING Mike to you and your family. Go Chiefs......
We have a few Menonites in the area who do honest tractor repair work & know how to save a $, but be a little careful because sometimes they'll reuse parts that you might prefer to be replaced.
This tractor has wet hydraulic brakes. Early on the brakes were known for sticking and the hydraulic oil was changed from regular Hy-Gard to low vicosity Hy-Gard. This seemed to help stop the sticking.
I'm a newbie with using a tractor (JD2025R). A bunch of the JD parts when I look up the price is ridiculous to me. The mold injected panels for the sides are around 500 each and the hood is around 700. Molded parts like that are not that expensive to manufacture.
I thought Kubota Springfield Missouri did me a little dirty last Spring.
I had taken the shifter off of the transmission of a 2000 Kubota L2500 (so that I could inspect the gears). When I tried to put it back together, I couldn't get the center shifting fork to slide into proper alignment.
So I went to the dealership to ask them if I needed to do something specific to get this shifting fork to slide.
The mechanic told me that he thought that one of the tiny spring loaded steel balls in the shifting mechanism seemed to be gunked up with sealant that had dripped down on it. He said he could clean it and get it working for me.
When I returned to pick it up, they have me a bill that was over $300. I was shocked.
But when I tried to slide the shifting fork, it still wouldn't slide.
So I pointed this out to the mechanic. He said, oh, well you have to move the other two forks into a certain position before the center one will slide.
That was the entire problem. If he had just told me that in the beginning, I wouldn't have needed anything else. Certainly not a very expensive steel ball cleaning that didn't need to be done in the first place.
I am reluctant to ever go back there for anything.
Many dealers simply want you to buy a new tractor instead of fixing it. Most tractor dealers are like used car salesmen!
Great advice all around Mike...covered all the bases and then some! 👍👍
Good sound advice to the Deere 4310 owner Mike.
It sounds like a dealer that didn't want to do the work. Back when my dad owned an auto restoration business if he had a potential job come in the door that he really didn't want to do he would quote them 2-3X higher hoping they would balk and not come back. If they agreed the extra $$ made it worth the added pain or time it took up one of his bays. My parents are in a historic district and contractors do the same thing there because dealing with the redtape is such a PITA. Brock repointing that would normally be $3k becomes $10k.
$5700 for a brake job on a tractor is totally outrageous! Completely "preditor" gouging! I have never, EVER spent $5700 TOTAL on ALL of the dozens of vehicles I have owned in my (near) 74 years of maintaining cars, trucks and tractors. My response to this is...."Where's the noose?"
Sounds like they gave you a full replacement of a tractor brake job , if everything is replaced NEW. As to the problem it may only be a smaller cost , but the top limit is $5700.
First thing I do when I buy a tractor is get all the available manuals for it, being a mechanic and engineer as well as a farmer, the last place I would go is a dealer unless there is no way I can't do it myself
I worked at a dealership for years (not tractors) trucks. When a customer comes in for work at the dealer they expect expert advice and a guarantee. Any time I did what you suggested a back yard guy would do I got stung. Like you said one seized shaft or one loose stretched or broken spring will cause that problem. At times I did the cheap easy fix and all was good. The guy left calling me a hero. LOL. 6 months later when the shaft seized again because water was still getting in through a weak shaft seal or the spring on the other side let go and now the other side was bad, well guess who went from hero to zero. Thats why dealers always want to do a complete job with a guarantee they can stand behind. The original brakes lasted a lot of hours, the replacement ones will last a lot also. Or you can fiddle with them every year for as long as you own the machine.
Hey! You just described my local diner!!! 🤣🤣🤣
0:38
This is where I would have inserted a freeze frame with a bubble with the caption: "WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT WILLIS?"
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!
There's a reason why they're called "Stealerships" !!!!!!!💸💸💸
And before somebody gets on here and says all dealerships aren't like that that's a lie that is a hundred percent Ally they're worried about driving up every ticket to the highest amount that they can when they if they just really focused on Customer Loyalty loyalty loyalty loyalty loyalty, customers would come back all the time and they could potentially make a lot more money over the long haul which would sustain the business.
But as we all know that's not the current thinking it's f*** them get as much as you can send them out the door because you already know they're not going to come back.
And just as a word to the wise if you're out of town and your car breaks down or something like that you are the prime candidate to be raped & taken to the cleaners on more than likely will be a half assed repair. I'm just telling you right now I've seen it hundreds of times and heard about others thousands of times.
I would love to know what state that dealer is located in,just sayin'.
I would question what parts they are replacing. My guess is they are cheating the customer by replacing parts that are not broken, worn, or damaged. Also, I would call the Better Business Bureau and file a report and ask them to review the estimate. I was an auto repair mechanic for 25+ years and this is the kind of crap that gave us a bad name. Good luck Sir
Good info
Mike how's your KCs doing? i wont watch NFL no more... Great Video Mike
Great info....
Hey MIke our local dealer charges 118 dollars per hr is that normal dealer charges.
That's on the high side but that's where everyone is headed to be able to compete for good technicians.
I think I've used my brake pedal once in 2 years.
Many of the newer tractors have very week iron in there cast mainly from where the tractor is forged from overseas with that being said crossing the ocean salt and engineers that don’t think like a farmer anymore forgets about grease serts oil bushes proper lube points and of course moisture and salt makes rust
So when you buy a tractor today make sure you use it and don’t let it set around to long it will start to seize up on you or even letting it set outside and not under a cover from rain look out electrical problems starts to happen these new tractors can’t handle it like the old ones can also I’m the mechanic that jd and IH and mf dealers couldn’t stand because just that story you have here and I could write a book about it one was a kabota dealer quoted $3000. To split and repair a hydro drive come to find out it was just a $95 cent key way worked out of the shaft my time at $ 100 an hour 3 hours plus new oil and filter gaskets was around $500 they guy was mad and went to his dealer and of course they called me and told me I void the warranty on his tractor so he got mad at me just can’t make this stuff up
We had a 4310 hydro dealer said it needs new trammison drove it for 6 months sold it
Good job
Because the last time I change brakes on a large tractor it was only a few hours I cannot see any reason why I would have to cost 57 00
Apparently green paint os expensive (?)
Love your show
I work at a John Deere dealer and i think that this dealer made a price too high to avoid having to do this job. They're probably booked with all winter preparations and the last harvests remaining (at least in Quebec that is the case for most dealers). Having a technician spend 2 or 3 days on this kind of job is not ideal. I'm not trying to excuse the fact that 5700$ US is scandalous, just giving a little insight as to maybe why this happened. Good day!
There's more to the story than we are being told, probably the old while you have it apart thing, dealers might be unscrupulous to be sure, but no way would they leave a paper trail you could take to court.
i cant speak for deere, or brakes but i had a kioti dealer tell me i needed a 3200 clutch and a second dealer fix it for 400
My 5045E is doing the same thing with less than 400hrs on it.
John Deere can even make a decent seat anymore
For $5700 I would think about buying some tools and become a tractor mechanic like Mike said. Do it your self. $5700 dollars to learn how it works. Cheap education. Save money the next time it’s broke.
If that tractor has hydraulic disc brakes and it worn beyond the the wear and it ate the brake housing up it is possible.
That tables by the front door at "Teresa's" where I live. Cure everything from world hunger to peace in the middle east, every day!
But it's not no $5,700 job I can't see it taking 50 hours last time I did it myself and this was on a 1975 7-series international so a pretty big ass tractor it only took me just a few hours
Find a heavy equipment mechanic its not a hard job if their wet disk inboard brakes.They aren't that bad to do .Question is why did they wear out something is misadjusted or brakes were dragging should really never have to be changed unless your using them to steer tractor constantly??
Always go to the neighbors first. Save a ton of money by local guys doing cash work.
That guy sure need to look for someone much cheaper to work on his tractor and get it back in tip top shape without being robbed by the person who gave him that estimate. I would permanently park that unit rather than spend that much money to repair it, and the estimate is too outrageous.
You purchased Dear John. Well that's what you get.
I have worked on heavy equipment since I was a kid not much on tractors but a lot of times you can get brake parts a lot cheaper than factory a truck brake shop might be able to reline those a lot cheaper then factory parts you are not fixing a race car thats if it even needs brake shoes also I never use wd40 go to Walmart and buy motorkote its way better.
Deere definately getting a little too big for their britches.
Yeah I was just thinking if somebody has a problem diagnosing your brakes you should never have them work on your brakes I'm just saying that that's that's just all kinds of bad
Do the work yourself Learn how your tractor works. Best thing you cans do.
parts cost more from the dealer because warranty work other products
Every dealership is a ripoff for anything period.
Michael needs to never go to that dealer again....
First thing to do is find another tractor dealer!
Might be inline for a Lambougini tractor
Unfortunately this typical at most dealerships.
👋🇨🇦👍👍👍👍👍
Bring the tractor to a yanmar dealer, they made the tractor for John Deere.