Not a mechanic, but have always done the same. Love all the social media and news posts about letting your vehicle warm up will damage it, or its a waste of time nonsense....obviously they've never lived in a cold climate where jumping in your car when its below zero and everything is iced up, you can't see where you are going, and the cute window scrapers aren't going through that solid ice on your windows to get it off without some help from the defroster.
I agree, it doesn't matter what type of engine you have always let it warm up for an adequate amount of time before going to use said piece of equipment
I'm a retired HEO, I also cycle the hydraulic oil through the cylinders after warm-up, BEFORE heading to work. And where I live in North East Ontario Canada, weather can get to -40. I have the engine tarped while the block heater is keeping it warm, and have a cardboard with a 2 inch hole covering the radiator. And finally I change the oil to a winter synthetic.
The best way in my practice is to feel the engine oil filter with your palm before the start and then again when the engine is running idle. A warm-enough oil filter is the best sign to go work.
I know I waste a lot of electricity with block heaters and oil pan heaters and I waste even more money on fuel letting everything idle far longer than I need to for warm up but, I haven’t ever had any major engine issues or had anything pop in the cold so I obsessively warm stuff up before I do any kind of work with it. The snowblower, tractor, plow truck, nothing of mine gets worked during winter in Michigan before it warms up. I saw plenty of hoses, gaskets and filters pop in Missouri winter during my time running equipment at fort lost in the woods. Learned that lesson on uncle Sam’s dime. You definitely want to let stuff warm up. 👍
No matter the temp , I idile my tractor till the first bar shows up on my dash for engine temp. First half of that time approx , in neutral then in gear ( hydrostatic tranny, Kubota) Seems to be fine in the -25 degrees we get in my part of Canada. I always put Howes diesel treatment in every tank full. So far so good, had this tractor since 2004 and it gets lots of use in winter plowing snow.
In case this comment is read/interpreted incorrectly, I have a smile on my face as I type this ... Mike, I hate to state the obvious but your expert just spent 3 min. telling your viewer based on his 40 years of experience that minimally 3 to ideal 5 minutes at 32 degrees. and, even then only at 1/2 throttle. Then, you come back with your 20 second scenario and ask him, in a round about way, if it's ok? You missed his ideal timing only by a multiple of 15.
Wow Mike, I’ve been watching your videos ever since I got into the tractor search back in 2020. I bought a tractor to develop a vineyard in southern Washington state near Portland, OR, but due to crazy rules and regulations, soaring taxes, and strict government over-reach, we sold our 8 acre parcel and moved to Missouri. We bought an 82 acre farm just outside Lebanon and couldn’t be happier with our decision to make Missouri home. I now own 2 tractors and find your videos invaluable along with a few other RUclips creators. Thanks for your wisdom and advice. Keep up the informational pieces on maintenance and good practices.
I live in Michigan and zero-degree or below weather is common. I have had tractors for forty years. The keys are: Use a synthetic motor oil of the recommended viscosity. Same thing for the hydraulic oil but only use the specific oil recommended by the manufacturer -- not the "Hydraulic Oil" at your local farm store. Add an engine block heater plugged into a wi-fi controlled outlet, and then you can start it for about an hour or more before using the tractor from the comfort of your home. Use some common sense just like you would for your car.
I'm a retired oil refinery worker who worked in the lab testing diesel among many other things. The temperatures you state as being cold, are balmy in the northern tier of states. The # 2 diesel produced for sale in the northern tier of states does not need an anti gel additive until you get colder than -10F. If it is going to be colder than that, I use a 50/50 blend of #1 and #2 diesel in my diesel pick ups. I'll use the same strategy in the tractor I have on order, if it ever comes in. I can't state with certainty what the pour point of #2 diesel is south of here. I'm in Montana.
@@CarolMeyer-pv5ub I'll won't likely convince you, summer grade #2 diesel will not gel at + 15 degrees. I can't speak to bio diesel, it gels at a warmer temperature than diesel made from oil. I stay as far away as possible from bio diesel.
I will start it up, give it a couple minutes and slowly move it out of the garage for the fumes. Then I let it run a while outside. Uses up some fuel, but I feel more comfortable letting it run for 15 minutes than have a problem with costly repairs.
I generally start the engine and then gradually work the various hydraulics to help the fluid flow and warm up. If it is whining when you use it, you might be pushing things a bit ; usually takes 2 to 5 minutes then I keep the rpm under 1/2 untill the temp gage comes up. Avoid the whining noises especially when cold if you want it to last.🙂
Good information 👍 I've been running my Kubota B7800 for 18 years in -30C to 0C in the winter here in Northern Ontario Canada without any issues. I use the block heater on the tractor and a magnetic heater under the hydraulic fluid reservoir. I let the engine warm up for 5 minutes and then go. Based on your advice, I will take it easier on the 3PT snowblower and loader from now on.
I just follow the manual for warm up time and then add 5 minutes. Just set the timer on your smart phone and use the time to grease or do something else. I added an exhaust hose to my garage so that with the doors opens and the exhaust pumping out the side of the garage it does not have to move before fully warmed. The bottom line is that if you cannot wait for your tractor to warm up then you did not start the day early enough - I live in Canada so cold is an issue. I may add a block heater next year.
I am outside of Duluth, MN. It can be -20 to -30. I let mine warm up much longer then we are talking about. I have a cab and when really cold I will warm up till the heater is warm.
Thank you so much I have a 2 yo ck3510 I thought if engine is warm I'm good to go. I'll give it some gentle driving in low so the hydraulics can warm a bit! Thanks again tractor Mike 😊
While I understand the desire to warm everything, you are only going to warm hydraulics 2 ways in my opinion. 1) usage 2) some type of heater attached to the the hydraulic system. You can go easy on the hydraulics until they warm up some, but that is a hard call. If 5 minutes at 32 degrees F, how long at 20 degrees, or 10 degrees? I would think it would not be simple math, but exponential math. But how much so?
Kind of my thoughts too. How much time does it take the hydraulic fluid to warm up with the tractor just sitting there idling? I don't think it warms up hardly at all with nothing really moving. I also found it kind of funny they mentioned if the hydrostatic transmission is whining its cold...no, if its a Kubota the damn thing always whines no matter what temperature it is, or what you are doing. When its cold I don't really use my tractor anyhow...but I do go out and start it occasionally to keep things lubricated and the battery charged. If I do use it when its cold, I start it, and let it sit there and idle while I open the doors on the shop, and then back it out hookup whatever implement/attachment I'm going to use and by that time its usually warm enough to drive around at least which is usually what I end up doing anyhow, driving it around the back of the house to wherever I'm working....The only way the hydraulics are gonna get warmed up is by using them...sitting at idle the fluid will never warm up its not doing anything other than circulating through a pump at very low pressure and very slowly and either going through a cooler or being cooled by a fan on the hydrostatic transaxle.
Summary At 32 degrees, start it up (let the glowplugs do their job) and let it idle for 5 minutes. If temps get to 15 degrees, then it will start to gel. Need to put an anti-gel additive prior to temps that cold and let the tractor run a bit.
It's actually not a bad idea to run a fuel additive such as Diesel Treat year round because they also help lubricate the injector pump and condition the seals in the fuel system.
Despite this video, folks will follow their own warm up procedure. Interestingly, the President of New Holland has stated that NH Dealers may no longer offer Competing Brands on the same lot w/ NH products. There is a timetable for this directive implementation across the entire US.
Thanks Mike. I have had this on my mind as well. I am glad to know that I have been doing it correctly. Regardless of the temperature, I always let my tractor warm up 5 to 10 minutes before moving. Longer in colder weather. Merry Christmas sir.
In NY, when it gets to November, all of my diesel fuel gets an anti-gel treatment. Either Power Service "White bottle" or Stanadyne performance formula. I don't think about the anti-gel, or worry about it, because it is something that is just done(Nov to March). As for the transmission, they are gears, so a lot of that is fine. When it is below 0F, then it might be a little slower until the 90W transmission oil loosens up. Never needed Diesel treatment 911, but then again, our equipment is in the garage which helps.
I have a DK Kioti 4210 SE HST. I let the tractor run for 5 min or so with the PTO engaged. that's with nothing hooked to the tractor, I slowly back it out of the unheated garage, then i lift the bucket up 5 feet or so 3 or 4 times. Step on the front and reveres pedals with parking brake on in neutral. After about 8-10 minutes in low range, I'll go slow at 1/3 throttle land start to use the tractor. While lensing to the transmission. When the temp is normal, I bring the RPMs up to 1800
From personal experience, Allow engine to reach operating temperature. I failed to do this on my 1850 Oliver, with 354 Perkins dry sleeve engine. One piston seized up and I had to do a in-field piston/sleeve replacement. From then on, I just go get a cup of coffee, or bathroom break.
5 minutes! Ha! In normal summer weather I warm up at least 10-15 minutes. And then baby it until all indicators are up to temp. In cold weather, as in zero, I warm 20-30 minutes and baby it until all indicators are up to temp. But we do run our tractor 12 months a year. 2021 Massey 4707 cabbed tractor. So maybe the bigger utility tractors longer. But in general our 4707 is a cold blooded machine: meaning it never runs hot. Regards, Marky
We live in Texas; I always drive our tractor (HST) until the temperature gauge comes up to operating temp before putting a load on the motor or hydraulics.
Good video…I’ve been in habit to let all equipment (including vehicles) warm up before use and idle down to help cool off before shutting down. I am still pleased with my choice of gear drive over hydro after several years of use. It can get a little busy when moving piles of dirt/rock etc, but has less vulnerabilities.
They do make different weight hydraulic oil for cold climate. I don't have my owners manual in front of me, but there was recommended viscosity or weight of both engine as well as hydraulic oil depending on your climate.
If you get your diesel fuel from a good supplier, it should already have anti-gel additives in it. It takes my tractor a couple hours in 30f or below weather to warm the hydraulics enough to use. It will flash an indicator light if the hydraulics are too cold.
Keep anti-gel in the diesel fuel. Put a magnetic warmer on the transmission for hydro tractors. Put a battery maintainer on the battery. Avoid starting when really cold if you can.
A battery blanket will do better than a maintainer. Living in cold Saskatchewan Canada, my battery blanket gets plugged in at -10c. The block heater is on a remote control, at least three hrs before it's needed. If it's -20, both systems are on full time. The blanket is only 35 watts, the block heater is 300 watts. I like the magnetic heater for the trans. Can you actually feel the heat on the trans case? The fuel suppliers all have winter diesel after October 1st.
It never snows where my tractor lives. Some winter mornings are a bit cold with frost but so the temperature gets down towards freezing. Normally I let my tractor warm up for a few minutes at idle before moving it at low revs out of the shed. It’s interesting to read and see tractors operating in snow when it’s cold. It must be fun in a way but I’d be saving up for a cab tractor.
regardless of temperature I don't go above idle till it hits operating temp. but I start the tractor on high ground and basically idle/roll down to the work by which time it is close. total over kill but for 5-10 minutes it appears easier.
I have been warming the engine up to operating temperature before mowing in Texas. Just my concern that the engine needs to be at temperature before loading it up.
Very interesting. We have a heated barn that I keep at about 58F in winter. And if it's 10F out, I'm inside the house. I plow with a Ranger. So, is there no "warm up" period for me to start using the hydraulics? Usually by the time I get started, I do lift the FEL and rear attachment and then creep out of the barn. By the time I close the garage door, it's probably been 3-5 minutes. Is that OK for longevity? I have a '21 Kubota MX6000 purchased new and plan to keep it long term. Thanks! Great stuff here.
Great advice and perfect timeing! I was just thinking about this the other day. Our temps have been pretty mild so far, but its only a mater of time before we are in a big chill. I wonder how many people use the electric engine heater plug. Mine has the plug, but have never needed it since the tracter stays inside the garage. I might do a little research on that block heater and see if it does anything for the hydralic fluid. My guess is it doesn't. Thanks for the video and have a Merry Christmas!
I warm it up until the motor quiets down and I put consistent load with detent remote to warm the fluid. Also run Schaffers fluid much better in the extreme heat and cold.
I’ve watched your videos for sometime and finally just now subscribed. You always have good advice and information. I’ve been around and owned tractors all my life I’m 68 and live in northwest Pa. I bought a new 2040 BobCat two years ago and it’s my first hydrostatic tractor and I’ve always been careful to let all my tractors warm up properly but this was really helpful. Thank you and be safe. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
I’ve heard that I should bump the rpm up right off on warm up versus low rpm idle. The comment they made was on the premise that the engine is made to run at higher rpm. Thoughts
The better answer is don't use high rpm's or put a high load on engine, or transmission until warm. Moving the loader when empty is fine stone cold. Starting the engine for 1 min and going easy on it while its cold is fine. Don't fire it up, put it wide open, and go into a bank of gravel cold. Thick oil plays tricks on pressure relief valves. You will find your cold oil gives you a higher break out force.
Total newbie here...just got my tractor 2 days ago and it is currently 11.5 degrees F outside. Going out to plug in the block heater now before even trying to start it...L3902 Kubota. How long should I run the block heater before starting? Any other advise greatly appreciated!
He didn't say anything about how long it would take letting the motor idle to warm up the hydraulic fluid to be safe in cold weather (0-15). I just retired and plan to let the engine run for a minimum of 10-15min when it gets below freezing. Will that be long enough?
It's simple, think of your machine like a person. If you slept in freezing conditions and woke up could you run a marathon the second you stand up!? No! Equipment needs to warm and limber up just like people in cold conditions. Your tractor will talk to you when you push it to hard to quickly if that makes sense.
Good info to know; especially about hydrostatic transmissions. Seems like OEMs should make this clearer in their manuals (for those who read them). Perhaps they just want to keep “Sam” busy.
Does letting the tractor sit over the winter, then starting for the first time in the spring when temperatures are in the 40s, affect the hydrostatic transmission?
Nope. The only thing you might do is keep a battery maintainer on the battery if you aren't starting the machine periodically through the winter. I don't use my tractor very often in the winter, too cold to do anything anyhow, so I just go out and start it occasionally like I do with my lawn tractor to keep the battery charged and things lubricated.
That's what I've been using. Course a bottle of it lasts me a long time as I only go through maybe 2-3 of the 5 gallon jugs of diesel a year LOL....don't use my tractor every day like many other owners, so fuel treatment is an absolute must.
If your cheaping out on hyd fluid. And running iso 46 or the thicker 68 Definitely take some time and dont rod on it, as things heat up. . The iso 32 would probably handle the cold a lot better, as its much thinner.
LOL, I wouldn't trust anything they say. Much safer to just add your own according to the directions on the fuel treatment you buy...you really don't want to be finding out the hard way when you need your tractor in cold temps that your fuel station lied to you LOL. Just add it yourself and play it safe.
Obviously some of you don’t live in a hot climate. Cooling down the turbocharged vehicle is equally important. That turbo gets over 1000 degrees . If you shut the engine down at those temperatures, you fry the oil and the seals in the turbo. Regular engines need a little cooldown also. The head temperatures are also quite high.
Being former military I just let it warm up for 10 minutes no matter what temperature it is. Hey if you can't afford the diesel well maybe you shouldn't have bought the tractor just saying.
Yep. Along with the people who think jumping in your car when its below zero and driving away is ok for the drivetrain. Not to mention not being able to see through all the ice on the windows, just ignore that bit of a safety issue LOL.
🟢I use Shell Rotella Full Synthetic T6 5w-40.! 2022/JD 3046R cab tractor.!🟢 On start up I don't move it for at least 10 min in cold weather.! I live above I-70.! 🤔
I love finding a youtuber from Missouri. Tractors are ok too.
Makes me thankful for a heated shop. The tractor is always 50-55°F.
As a lifelong mechanic it doesn't matter what type of machine. Let any engine warm up before you make it go to work. Vehicles included
Not a mechanic, but have always done the same. Love all the social media and news posts about letting your vehicle warm up will damage it, or its a waste of time nonsense....obviously they've never lived in a cold climate where jumping in your car when its below zero and everything is iced up, you can't see where you are going, and the cute window scrapers aren't going through that solid ice on your windows to get it off without some help from the defroster.
I agree, it doesn't matter what type of engine you have always let it warm up for an adequate amount of time before going to use said piece of equipment
I'm a retired HEO, I also cycle the hydraulic oil through the cylinders after warm-up, BEFORE heading to work. And where I live in North East Ontario Canada, weather can get to -40. I have the engine tarped while the block heater is keeping it warm, and have a cardboard with a 2 inch hole covering the radiator. And finally I change the oil to a winter synthetic.
@reloadnorth7722 not a bad 💡
The best way in my practice is to feel the engine oil filter with your palm before the start and then again when the engine is running idle.
A warm-enough oil filter is the best sign to go work.
I know I waste a lot of electricity with block heaters and oil pan heaters and I waste even more money on fuel letting everything idle far longer than I need to for warm up but, I haven’t ever had any major engine issues or had anything pop in the cold so I obsessively warm stuff up before I do any kind of work with it.
The snowblower, tractor, plow truck, nothing of mine gets worked during winter in Michigan before it warms up.
I saw plenty of hoses, gaskets and filters pop in Missouri winter during my time running equipment at fort lost in the woods.
Learned that lesson on uncle Sam’s dime.
You definitely want to let stuff warm up. 👍
jaxturner,
I wouldn't say " wasted electricity/ fuel".
Saving your equipment makes up for that.
☆
@@fjb4932 agree, the electricity is an investment in the care of your machine
No matter the temp , I idile my tractor till the first bar shows up on my dash for engine temp. First half of that time approx , in neutral
then in gear ( hydrostatic tranny, Kubota) Seems to be fine in the -25 degrees we get in my part of Canada. I always put Howes diesel treatment in every tank full. So far so good, had this tractor since 2004 and it gets lots of use in winter plowing snow.
In case this comment is read/interpreted incorrectly, I have a smile on my face as I type this ...
Mike, I hate to state the obvious but your expert just spent 3 min. telling your viewer based on his 40 years of experience that minimally 3 to ideal 5 minutes at 32 degrees. and, even then only at 1/2 throttle. Then, you come back with your 20 second scenario and ask him, in a round about way, if it's ok? You missed his ideal timing only by a multiple of 15.
Wow Mike, I’ve been watching your videos ever since I got into the tractor search back in 2020. I bought a tractor to develop a vineyard in southern Washington state near Portland, OR, but due to crazy rules and regulations, soaring taxes, and strict government over-reach, we sold our 8 acre parcel and moved to Missouri. We bought an 82 acre farm just outside Lebanon and couldn’t be happier with our decision to make Missouri home. I now own 2 tractors and find your videos invaluable along with a few other RUclips creators. Thanks for your wisdom and advice. Keep up the informational pieces on maintenance and good practices.
One must live in a red state now to escape government tyranny
I live in Michigan and zero-degree or below weather is common. I have had tractors for forty years. The keys are: Use a synthetic motor oil of the recommended viscosity. Same thing for the hydraulic oil but only use the specific oil recommended by the manufacturer -- not the "Hydraulic Oil" at your local farm store. Add an engine block heater plugged into a wi-fi controlled outlet, and then you can start it for about an hour or more before using the tractor from the comfort of your home. Use some common sense just like you would for your car.
I'm a retired oil refinery worker who worked in the lab testing diesel among many other things. The temperatures you state as being cold, are balmy in the northern tier of states. The # 2 diesel produced for sale in the northern tier of states does not need an anti gel additive until you get colder than -10F. If it is going to be colder than that, I use a 50/50 blend of #1 and #2 diesel in my diesel pick ups. I'll use the same strategy in the tractor I have on order, if it ever comes in. I can't state with certainty what the pour point of #2 diesel is south of here. I'm in Montana.
Not quite. The diesel fuel you get could be blended. One of our trucks had the fuel gel in Portland OR. The temperature was around 15 degrees
@@CarolMeyer-pv5ub I'll won't likely convince you, summer grade #2 diesel will not gel at + 15 degrees. I can't speak to bio diesel, it gels at a warmer temperature than diesel made from oil. I stay as far away as possible from bio diesel.
I will start it up, give it a couple minutes and slowly move it out of the garage for the fumes. Then I let it run a while outside. Uses up some fuel, but I feel more comfortable letting it run for 15 minutes than have a problem with costly repairs.
I generally start the engine and then gradually work the various hydraulics to help the fluid flow and warm up. If it is whining when you use it, you might be pushing things a bit ; usually takes 2 to 5 minutes then I keep the rpm under 1/2 untill the temp gage comes up. Avoid the whining noises especially when cold if you want it to last.🙂
Good information 👍 I've been running my Kubota B7800 for 18 years in -30C to 0C in the winter here in Northern Ontario Canada without any issues. I use the block heater on the tractor and a magnetic heater under the hydraulic fluid reservoir. I let the engine warm up for 5 minutes and then go. Based on your advice, I will take it easier on the 3PT snowblower and loader from now on.
I just follow the manual for warm up time and then add 5 minutes. Just set the timer on your smart phone and use the time to grease or do something else.
I added an exhaust hose to my garage so that with the doors opens and the exhaust pumping out the side of the garage it does not have to move before fully warmed.
The bottom line is that if you cannot wait for your tractor to warm up then you did not start the day early enough - I live in Canada so cold is an issue. I may add a block heater next year.
I am outside of Duluth, MN. It can be -20 to -30. I let mine warm up much longer then we are talking about. I have a cab and when really cold I will warm up till the heater is warm.
Thank you so much I have a 2 yo ck3510 I thought if engine is warm I'm good to go. I'll give it some gentle driving in low so the hydraulics can warm a bit! Thanks again tractor Mike 😊
While I understand the desire to warm everything, you are only going to warm hydraulics 2 ways in my opinion.
1) usage
2) some type of heater attached to the the hydraulic system.
You can go easy on the hydraulics until they warm up some, but that is a hard call. If 5 minutes at 32 degrees F, how long at 20 degrees, or 10 degrees? I would think it would not be simple math, but exponential math. But how much so?
Kind of my thoughts too. How much time does it take the hydraulic fluid to warm up with the tractor just sitting there idling? I don't think it warms up hardly at all with nothing really moving.
I also found it kind of funny they mentioned if the hydrostatic transmission is whining its cold...no, if its a Kubota the damn thing always whines no matter what temperature it is, or what you are doing.
When its cold I don't really use my tractor anyhow...but I do go out and start it occasionally to keep things lubricated and the battery charged. If I do use it when its cold, I start it, and let it sit there and idle while I open the doors on the shop, and then back it out hookup whatever implement/attachment I'm going to use and by that time its usually warm enough to drive around at least which is usually what I end up doing anyhow, driving it around the back of the house to wherever I'm working....The only way the hydraulics are gonna get warmed up is by using them...sitting at idle the fluid will never warm up its not doing anything other than circulating through a pump at very low pressure and very slowly and either going through a cooler or being cooled by a fan on the hydrostatic transaxle.
Summary At 32 degrees, start it up (let the glowplugs do their job) and let it idle for 5 minutes. If temps get to 15 degrees, then it will start to gel. Need to put an anti-gel additive prior to temps that cold and let the tractor run a bit.
It's actually not a bad idea to run a fuel additive such as Diesel Treat year round because they also help lubricate the injector pump and condition the seals in the fuel system.
@@MikeBrown-ii3pt7th
I let mine run for at least 5 minutes and I turn the pto on. My pto is hydraulic actuated so doing that helps warm the fluid faster.
Despite this video, folks will follow their own warm up procedure. Interestingly, the President of New Holland has stated that NH Dealers may no longer offer Competing Brands on the same lot w/ NH products. There is a timetable for this directive implementation across the entire US.
That was a great question and a great answer!
Thanks Mike. I have had this on my mind as well. I am glad to know that I have been doing it correctly. Regardless of the temperature, I always let my tractor warm up 5 to 10 minutes before moving. Longer in colder weather. Merry Christmas sir.
In NY, when it gets to November, all of my diesel fuel gets an anti-gel treatment. Either Power Service "White bottle" or Stanadyne performance formula. I don't think about the anti-gel, or worry about it, because it is something that is just done(Nov to March). As for the transmission, they are gears, so a lot of that is fine. When it is below 0F, then it might be a little slower until the 90W transmission oil loosens up. Never needed Diesel treatment 911, but then again, our equipment is in the garage which helps.
I have a DK Kioti 4210 SE HST. I let the tractor run for 5 min or so with the PTO engaged. that's with nothing hooked to the tractor, I slowly back it out of the unheated garage, then i lift the bucket up 5 feet or so 3 or 4 times. Step on the front and reveres pedals with parking brake on in neutral. After about 8-10 minutes in low range, I'll go slow at 1/3 throttle land start to use the tractor. While lensing to the transmission. When the temp is normal, I bring the RPMs up to 1800
Battery tender,engine block heater,let it warm up 10-15 minutes,no problem.Gets -20 below where I'm at.
stick a heater on the trans... they are cheap and work very well. Goes for (fuel) filters also.
Great information. Thanks for making this video!
From personal experience, Allow engine to reach operating temperature. I failed to do this on my 1850 Oliver, with 354 Perkins dry sleeve engine. One piston seized up and I had to do a in-field piston/sleeve replacement. From then on, I just go get a cup of coffee, or bathroom break.
5 minutes! Ha!
In normal summer weather I warm up at least 10-15 minutes. And then baby it until all indicators are up to temp.
In cold weather, as in zero, I warm 20-30 minutes and baby it until all indicators are up to temp.
But we do run our tractor 12 months a year.
2021 Massey 4707 cabbed tractor. So maybe the bigger utility tractors longer. But in general our 4707 is a cold blooded machine: meaning it never runs hot.
Regards,
Marky
We live in Texas; I always drive our tractor (HST) until the temperature gauge comes up to operating temp before putting a load on the motor or hydraulics.
Good video…I’ve been in habit to let all equipment (including vehicles) warm up before use and idle down to help cool off before shutting down. I am still pleased with my choice of gear drive over hydro after several years of use. It can get a little busy when moving piles of dirt/rock etc, but has less vulnerabilities.
They do make different weight hydraulic oil for cold climate. I don't have my owners manual in front of me, but there was recommended viscosity or weight of both engine as well as hydraulic oil depending on your climate.
If you get your diesel fuel from a good supplier, it should already have anti-gel additives in it. It takes my tractor a couple hours in 30f or below weather to warm the hydraulics enough to use. It will flash an indicator light if the hydraulics are too cold.
Keep anti-gel in the diesel fuel. Put a magnetic warmer on the transmission for hydro tractors. Put a battery maintainer on the battery. Avoid starting when really cold if you can.
A battery blanket will do better than a maintainer. Living in cold Saskatchewan Canada, my battery blanket gets plugged in at -10c. The block heater is on a remote control, at least three hrs before it's needed. If it's -20, both systems are on full time. The blanket is only 35 watts, the block heater is 300 watts. I like the magnetic heater for the trans. Can you actually feel the heat on the trans case? The fuel suppliers all have winter diesel after October 1st.
It never snows where my tractor lives. Some winter mornings are a bit cold with frost but so the temperature gets down towards freezing. Normally I let my tractor warm up for a few minutes at idle before moving it at low revs out of the shed.
It’s interesting to read and see tractors operating in snow when it’s cold. It must be fun in a way but I’d be saving up for a cab tractor.
regardless of temperature I don't go above idle till it hits operating temp. but I start the tractor on high ground and basically idle/roll down to the work by which time it is close. total over kill but for 5-10 minutes it appears easier.
I have been warming the engine up to operating temperature before mowing in Texas. Just my concern that the engine needs to be at temperature before loading it up.
Very interesting. We have a heated barn that I keep at about 58F in winter. And if it's 10F out, I'm inside the house. I plow with a Ranger.
So, is there no "warm up" period for me to start using the hydraulics? Usually by the time I get started, I do lift the FEL and rear attachment and then creep out of the barn. By the time I close the garage door, it's probably been 3-5 minutes.
Is that OK for longevity? I have a '21 Kubota MX6000 purchased new and plan to keep it long term.
Thanks! Great stuff here.
Great advice and perfect timeing! I was just thinking about this the other day. Our temps have been pretty mild so far, but its only a mater of time before we are in a big chill. I wonder how many people use the electric engine heater plug. Mine has the plug, but have never needed it since the tracter stays inside the garage. I might do a little research on that block heater and see if it does anything for the hydralic fluid. My guess is it doesn't. Thanks for the video and have a Merry Christmas!
I warm it up until the motor quiets down and I put consistent load with detent remote to warm the fluid. Also run Schaffers fluid much better in the extreme heat and cold.
Excellent, thank you. Seasons Greetings and happy winter.
Having a engine coolant heater helps
I’ve watched your videos for sometime and finally just now subscribed. You always have good advice and information. I’ve been around and owned tractors all my life I’m 68 and live in northwest Pa. I bought a new 2040 BobCat two years ago and it’s my first hydrostatic tractor and I’ve always been careful to let all my tractors warm up properly but this was really helpful. Thank you and be safe. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
I’ve heard that I should bump the rpm up right off on warm up versus low rpm idle. The comment they made was on the premise that the engine is made to run at higher rpm. Thoughts
What is your opinion on block heaters? At what temp range are they necessary.
thank youi . veery well done .i use a magnegtis block heater on hydraulic tank . we get minus 30 some of the time . all he best
The better answer is don't use high rpm's or put a high load on engine, or transmission until warm. Moving the loader when empty is fine stone cold. Starting the engine for 1 min and going easy on it while its cold is fine. Don't fire it up, put it wide open, and go into a bank of gravel cold. Thick oil plays tricks on pressure relief valves. You will find your cold oil gives you a higher break out force.
Well I guess it’s time to pour in the anti-gel here in northern TN. Tim
Great feature!! I always learn something each time...
Total newbie here...just got my tractor 2 days ago and it is currently 11.5 degrees F outside. Going out to plug in the block heater now before even trying to start it...L3902 Kubota. How long should I run the block heater before starting? Any other advise greatly appreciated!
He didn't say anything about how long it would take letting the motor idle to warm up the hydraulic fluid to be safe in cold weather (0-15). I just retired and plan to let the engine run for a minimum of 10-15min when it gets below freezing. Will that be long enough?
It's simple, think of your machine like a person. If you slept in freezing conditions and woke up could you run a marathon the second you stand up!? No! Equipment needs to warm and limber up just like people in cold conditions. Your tractor will talk to you when you push it to hard to quickly if that makes sense.
Now that we have covered the warm up phase, Can we go into turbo cool down recommended times plz. Good work.
My LS 4150 manual says to idle at 1000 rpm for 2 minutes before shutoff. Not sure about other make/models though.
Mike, great tips
Winter is when i love my gas tractor with manual transmissionand live hydraulics
I start my 1999 kubota grand L and go back inside to drink coffee. When the coffee is gone the tractor and I are both ready.
Thanks Mike
Good info to know; especially about hydrostatic transmissions. Seems like OEMs should make this clearer in their manuals (for those who read them). Perhaps they just want to keep “Sam” busy.
Fuel is cheaper than an engine or transmission
Exactly...same goes for changing oil/filters regularly...much cheaper than replacing whatever you decided to skip routine maintenance on LOL.
👍👍👍.Thanks
Does letting the tractor sit over the winter, then starting for the first time in the spring when temperatures are in the 40s, affect the hydrostatic transmission?
Nope. The only thing you might do is keep a battery maintainer on the battery if you aren't starting the machine periodically through the winter.
I don't use my tractor very often in the winter, too cold to do anything anyhow, so I just go out and start it occasionally like I do with my lawn tractor to keep the battery charged and things lubricated.
Same.thing with cars. Atart them defrost the window drive slowly and dont lug the motor.
Hot Shots Secret anti gel works great. Project Farm reviewed
That's what I've been using. Course a bottle of it lasts me a long time as I only go through maybe 2-3 of the 5 gallon jugs of diesel a year LOL....don't use my tractor every day like many other owners, so fuel treatment is an absolute must.
@@wildbill23c same. 2022 with 65 hrs lol
If your cheaping out on hyd fluid.
And running iso 46 or the thicker 68 Definitely take some time and dont rod on it, as things heat up.
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The iso 32 would probably handle the cold a lot better, as its much thinner.
Im a dumdum who lets it warm up until the needle comes off of cold on the temp gauge.
Ask your fuel supplier if it already has anti gel additives. My fuel supplier told me they put in anti gel in the diesel.
LOL, I wouldn't trust anything they say. Much safer to just add your own according to the directions on the fuel treatment you buy...you really don't want to be finding out the hard way when you need your tractor in cold temps that your fuel station lied to you LOL. Just add it yourself and play it safe.
Obviously some of you don’t live in a hot climate. Cooling down the turbocharged vehicle is equally important. That turbo gets over 1000 degrees . If you shut the engine down at those temperatures, you fry the oil and the seals in the turbo. Regular engines need a little cooldown also. The head temperatures are also quite high.
P.S. great video of an important topic
Being former military I just let it warm up for 10 minutes no matter what temperature it is. Hey if you can't afford the diesel well maybe you shouldn't have bought the tractor just saying.
So much math here. Start the tractor, go drink a beer, go to work.
I fire it up, have a smoke, when it's gone, I take off lol
I just keep mine in a heated building, she's always ready to go.
Let them warm up until your temperature guage starts to move up.
I wait until the engine quits RATTLING
Letting my tractor warm up, you can hear the r.p.m. change as it warms up.
Are there really that many ignorant people out there there?
Yep. Along with the people who think jumping in your car when its below zero and driving away is ok for the drivetrain. Not to mention not being able to see through all the ice on the windows, just ignore that bit of a safety issue LOL.
Not true. You can put in red 911 diesel treatment after the fact. It gets 20 below zero here in Maine and that’s what we use.
🟢I use Shell Rotella Full Synthetic T6 5w-40.! 2022/JD 3046R cab tractor.!🟢 On start up I don't move it for at least 10 min in cold weather.! I live above I-70.! 🤔