Solenoid Testing, Function and Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- www.wellsve.com/ www.wellsve.com/custom_searche... This video demonstrates how a typical starter solenoid functions, focusing on the Ford design. It takes you step by step through the testing and replacement procedures.
"The information presented in this program is based on a specific diagnostic case and might not directly apply to the vehicle you are repairing. We do not represent or warrant that the information presented is complete or error free. Please take all safety precautions. We disclaim any and all liability for losses, injuries or damages in connection with your repair." 
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"....needs to be replaced......" not ".....needs replaced.....". That was a joy to hear. Thanks for the video. Still useful after all these years!
As a DIY newbie, I think this video is highly educational and very well done. I like it when you included all the elements required - the video, the real sound, 3D animations and the real work being done. You delivered a lot under just 7 minutes. Thank you and congratulations.
A
I.
Aaa at aa
I'm not a newbie, but still ended up watching your entire video because it was so well put together. Great job!
Wow thank you for the kind words. We do put thought into these and try to answer the questions before they are asked.
Thank you again, your comment means a lot to us!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Mark you are the first ever man to read our post and give us and idea of our problems.
Thank you very much for sharing you knowledge.
Never changed anything on my car and today I grew the balls with your on point video! Thank you lad 🤝
Thank you for the kind words ... very happy we could help you.
My Best,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you for the kind words. Happy we could help.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Hey great news! Thanks for letting me and everyone else know!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Best video yet on diagnosing starter troubles!
@dosteddaram Thanks for the feedback, very happy we could help!
Take Care,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you for the kind words. I try my best to help everyone.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Micheal vs jason
@lafemmetragic Thanks for the feedback, very happy we could help you!
Take care,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
You may have what is called a parasitic draw. To check remove one battery cable and connect an amp meter between the cable and post on the battery. Let is sit for about a half hour and read the meter. If it reads more than 50 mamps, you have a draw. Leave the meter hook up and start removing fuses. When you find the right circuit the meter will drop. Then reconnect the fuse and start unplugging what ever is in that circuit.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you for the informative video! I learned quite a bit, since I am incredibly uneducated when it comes to automotive electronics.
very helpful and informative information. thank you! I hope this may help me in fixing my own car myself!
super incredible video, I know
electricity very well and i still learned alot. I cant wait to watch all your videos.
@jiujitsukiller9 Thank you, makes us feel like we are doing the right thing with comments like yours!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
I mean from youtube channel. You are allways giving us a solution to our problems.
thank you for responding. The battery is full and and almost new, can the starter be fried or "stuck"?
LA-pro , good and professional video, clear, pin point accuracy throughout! Again great video guys
+John g Thanks for the kind words! Check back often we are putting up new videos every other week! If you go over to our website you can subscribe and get an email every time we have another class. www.wellsve.com/wells_tech.html
Mike Becker, Technical Services Instructor
I am humbled ... all I can say is Thank You!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
@drm315 Thank you for the kind words. Most of the music in our videos comes from stock20.com.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
@val0555 I suggest checking the starter relay. They have a lot of problems with them being intermittent.
Mark Hicks
Wells vehicle electronics
I have 12 v on battery side of solenoid and only 7 volts on starter side while attempting to start. Does neutral safety switch come into play before or after starter side of solenoid. What should voltage be on starter side of solenoid.
@phisherben You are very welcome, it is our pleasure to help.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Disconnect the "S" terminal and connect a test light to it .. like we did in the video. Try to crank the engine and the light should come on bright. If it doesn't it means either you have a problem with the wire to the "S" terminal, neutral safety switch or ignition switch issue.
Stay in touch,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Best out there so far..i know this stuff ..just like to see what others are up to ..gr8 vid ..wish I was into making these but just learned to text a year ago ..old school.yup..
Thanks for watching! Texting is the first step, up next...video production! :)
Mike Becker, Senior Technical Instructor
Thanks for the response Mark. I tried keeping the headlights on while trying to crank and the headlights remained on. What next?
2004 Grand Am engine turns slowly. I thought it was the battery, battery tested good at auto zone with good cranking amps. Tried again, had someone crank engion, again turned serpentine belt slowely then I smelled smoke, and starter was very hot. The starter came out but I couldn't get the solenoid mounted above it out. Is it possible the starter (hot) is bad and the solenoid is ok,
I have a 2001 ford expedition 5.4L. Im having a problem with what i think would be the starter solenoid. What it does is, i go to turn the key and it dies as if there isn't enough power getting to the starter to start it. If i jump it at the solenoid it starts just fine. My battery is fine and my alternator is fine. Please help if you can?? Thanks
6. If the switches are showing a valid position combination, attempt to move the shift motor with power and ground applied to the Yellow (YL) and Orange (OR) wires of the shift motor to make it move completely to the 4L or 2H positions, and then recheck the indicated position of the position switches on the flat 8-terminal connection.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
I understand exactly ... thank you for the update! Glad you found the issue. Sometimes lessons are tough to swallow.
Take Care,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thanks ... the blast from our plant to space!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
@DJSkippy If you have any questions, just let me know I will do my best to help.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Monitor check engine light operation. If it comes on the PCM powers and grnds are OK. if not go there first. if it comes on crank the engine, as soon as the engine starts to turn, the check engine light MUST go out. if not go to the crank sensor and check for about .7v AC output at normal crank speed.
The crankshaft position sensor has a very high failure rate on your vehicle.
Stay in touch,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you for the kind words. Most of the music in our videos comes from stock20.com.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
The solenoid does a single click when you try to start the engine. So I connected a jumper cable to the large post on the starter (key in "off" position, of course) and connected the other end to the "s" terminal and the starter cranked. Then I tried a jumper cable from the battery positive post to the "s" terminal and again the starter cranked (a similar test, I know). So I'm guessing the wire from the "s" post on the solenoid down to the push on fitting on the starter is bad?
I have a vt 650 shadow, and i have volts in and out of the solenoid but when i click the start button the solenoid just clicks and no volts out, this happens when the handlebar button is off AND on. Dont know if you could help me with this cuz its a mc, but any ideas would help!
Got a question for you Mark! Do you NEED to have the positive cable from alternator to starter solenoid fused? Does it have to have a "fuseable link"?
Mark can you tell me where is crankshaft position sensor is located on my Explorer 1998.
Strait to the point and clear thank you! Just wanted to make sure that did don’t get my wires crossed. Cheers 🎉
@trungdtbk It is our pleasure. If you have a video you would like to see, or you need repair diagnostic information be sure to let me know.
Mark Hicks
Wells Manufacturing L.P.
Great video. I replaced the starter solenoid in my 1998 F-150. Turns out not to be a problem, but was a problem because it exploded into a thousand pieces when I tried to remove the first nut. Now, it seems like there is a break in the "S" terminal wire. I can't seem to find out how to replace that wire to fix it. Some days it starts, some days it won't. Very frustrating.
@MrMentalbreakdown00 No apologies necessary. I like the way you think and please never be ashamed of a question. Its the ones who don't like questions I am worried about. This is a wonderful subject of debate. In my humble opinion on a Ford system i think you are correct. I think it has been called a solenoid for so long no one questions it any longer. However, on other makes it would have to be called a solenoid. I am very open for comments on this one.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
I've lookd EVERYWHERE for the starter solenoid in my 1988 Toyota Supra mk3. Any idea where it is?
Mark I checked for spark on the 1998 Ford Explorer and don't seem to have any. Could the ignition coil be a cause for this problem.
Thank you for the kind words. If you ever need any assistance on vehicle electronics just let us know, we are here to help the best we can!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
4. If the LED does not illuminate, check the power and ground circuits of the remaining 8-terminal pigtail connector before condemning the shift module.
5. If the module passes self test, check the resistance between the White/Yellow (WT/YL) wire of the 8-terminal flat connector, and the next 4 wires down the connector row, one-at-a-time for indications of open and closed readings that will identify the position of the shift motor.
What if my battery will charge fine and it starts fine at first try but after i turn off the car the battery losses voltage and it clicks like on your video. i replaced the old alternator before i had this problem. I have checked all the terminals and cables and all are good. It seems like their might be a short circuit.
Mark replaced the crankshaft position sensor and is up and running. Thanks for your help!
Well thats a good sign. Does the solenoid click when you try to start the engine? If it does it means it is working. Then check the cable to the starter from the solenoid. You can also try connecting a jumper cable from the solenoid to the starter. If it then cranks the cable is defective. Also check if the wire going to the "S" terminal on the solenoid is getting hot when trying to crank the engine.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Tried spraying starter fluid in throttle body would not start. Could you tell me where to start for spark. It drove home one evening and later that night just would not turn over.
Thank you for the lightning fast response! I think you'd be right, however I cannot find the starter either...
Okay, I have a 1978 Mustang II king cobra with a 1970 torino 302 in it, i have had the starter sticking problem for a few months now and i Have gone through 5+ solenoids and slowly but surely the problem arises again, any idea why this is happening? also if you tap on the solenoid while its stick itll stop turning over, any idea why this is, please respond back ASAP.
Hey Mark, I have an issue with a 2003 Hundai Accent 1.5 manual. It has worked fine all along, and was just left sitting for a short period, a few weeks, now it won't start. The battery is fine, as is the starter relay, when you hit the ignition the starter can be heard spinning fine, it just seems like it's simply not extending the gear to mesh with the ring gear to crank the engine. Sound like just a solenoid issue to you? There is no unusual noise, just the starter spinning away contently.
so if i take the black connector off of the solenoid and bridge that connector it will start right up...if I hook it back up to that solenoid it wont start...doesnt even make 1 click noise. but if while that connector is on there is i bridge the 2 studs that they are bolted to with a metal wrench it starts right up. is that a bad solenoid? i just changed it 3 yrs ago its probably got less than 10000 miles on it. all that voltage testing looks confusing but i guess im gonna have to figure that bad boy out. any info is greatly appreciated thank you
@evils1z28 Thanks for the kind words.
Mark Hicks
Wells vehicle Electronics
@rkrishnasekar Thank you for the kind words. Why did you remove your comment, it was much appreciated.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
I just bought a brand new solenoid but my car still won't start. I have to use a screwdriver to jump the solenoid by touching the two copper posts. Any suggestions?
Thank you very much for your video. It is very useful and understandable, even for non-mechanic folks like me.
The first thing you want to do is check for voltage on the "S" terminal of the solenoid when the key is turned to the start position. If you have constant power there, then turn "on" your headlights and try to start it. If the headlights go out it means either the battery is going dead or you have a bad connection on the battery. If you can jump the solenoid and it cranks, the solenoid is working.
Let me know how it goes,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
When you turn the key to the start position there must be 12 volts on the wire going to the "S" terminal. Disconnect the wire there and see if you have the 12 volts with the key turned to start. If you don't, check the fuses and the ignition switch.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
What if you get 10v at the signal wire with key turned on and test light lit up?
thank you. very simple to understand video.
You should have 12 volts on both sides of the solenoid when it is activated. Try disconnecting the starter cable and see then. If you have 12 volts on both sides at that time, you have a bad cable to the starter, poor connection on that cable, a bad ground on the starter or block or a bad starter. The NSW is before the solenoid. If the solenoid is clicking (activating) the NSW is ok.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
i have 1995 ford explorer xlt ,the over drive ligth is comming on when i take the 95
Mark I have a honda passport 96 the lights works and everything else but when I try to start the vehicle It just have a clicking sound just once and thats it. help!!!
what would you say the problem is when the solenoid clicks but the engine won't turn over the negative cable just gets really hot?
It is recommended to replace the solenoid with the starter because, if the solenoid has some time on it, it more likely to stick in the "on" position and keep the starter engaged while the engine is running. This would in turn ruin the new starter.
Thank you for the kind words, they me a lot to us,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Hey there for some reason i cannot locate the solenoid fuel switch for freightliner Detroit diesel series 50 can u assist me with this plz? This has me stumped! thx in Advance.
Hey i hope u can help me i own a 89. f150 4.9l it keeps burning up the starter solenoid i will buy it brand new n week or two later it stop works do you have any idea what can cause that
The voltmeter reading was good it read 14.52 .I checked the battery and it is working. What else could be draining my batteries voltage when my car is not on.
It is typically on the side close to the radiator. There may be a heat shield over the top of it. Look where the transmission meets the engine.
Mark Hicks
Wells vehicle Electronics
Hi mark, I was wondering if you could give a possible insight on a car issue. I have a 1994 Honda accord. The car wouldn't crank when I turned the key, it was just silent. I took the battery and starter to autozone and they tested good. Replaced the main relay. Also the fuses are good. Fuel pump sounds like its working. Any insight would be helpful thanks in advance.
Oh also battery cables seem fine
Check the Black/White wire at the automatic transmission gear position switch located underneath the shifter.
If no power to the Black/White wire at the automatic transmission gear selector position switch, check the ignition switch.
If there is power at the Black/White wire, check to see if the power is going through the switch and to the starter.
If power is coming out of the switch on the Black/White wire, check for an open wire or poor connection.
Let us know how it goes,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Great video, Question...I have 12v going in but 5.94v output of the same coil. I ordered a new coil but was wondering if there could be another issue. Getting same voltage to the starter.
Hey Trance, thanks for watching! If one side is 12v and the other side less than 12, then you have a voltage drop across the solenoid....time for a new one.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@sonico73 Try turning your headlights "on", then try to start it. If the headlights stay bright, check that power is getting to the starter. If it is chances are you need to check the starter. Try tapping it with a hammer while trying to crank it. If that works you need a starter. If the headlights dim while trying to crank, it means a poor connection or bad battery.
Stay in touch,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
It sounds to me like either the battery is defective or the charging system is not working. Start the engine and connect a voltmeter to the battery, you should be charging 14.5 volts with the headlights on, give or take a little.
Let me know,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
It could be one of the above. What is the year, make, model and engine size? I can then tell you the easiest way to test and most common cause for the issue.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
here's my problem: whenever the negative clamp touches the negative post,sparks emerge and the starter automatically begins to run and wont stop until i disconnect the negative clamp.is it the solenoid,starter relay or ignitions witch causing this problem?
Hi, Ive an e39 Bmw 1999, Was driving perfect but today I go to drive it and turn the key all lights come on buy nothing else happens... no click and no crank? Any ideas before i bring to garage?
@mybasshas7strings Hello, I am not sure why the starter would make a rattling sound at mid temperatures, but that sure does not rule it out. I would have a friend turn the key and I would go under the hood to try to pinpoint the problem. Put your hand on the starter, feel and listen to see if it is the cause. Id you are listening by the engine you kust might be able to detect the problem.
Let me know how it turns out of if you have any further questions,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Yes it is very possible! Take the starter into AutoZone and have them test it.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Hey Mark! Great video! So I replaced the relay on the fender and I'm still getting a "single click" problem which (as you mentioned) indicates the problem could be elsewhere. Where should I start?
Check the starter wires and battery cables and ensure the battery has a proper charge.
my starter solenoid doesn’t show a + or - does it matter which side of the the solenoid is wired to power and which wire goes to starter?
Thank you!
I have a 2004 Kia Sedona. Turn the key to ON and all accessories and lights work fine...turn to crank vehicle and nothing. Took starter out had it tested at AutoZone tested good. Battery is good. Tried to jump vehicle off to get it started nothing. All fuses are good. Changed out ignition switch still nothing. Any ideas?
Stacey, this could be caused by a bad starter relay maybe. On your Sedona instead of a solenoid mounted on the side of the engine compartment, it is actually attached to the starter. I would inspect for power to the S terminal. Maybe time to have a shop test this thing?
Mike Becker, Technical Services Instructor
I have a 1990 ford f150 xlt lariat 5.0 the starter solenoid wires are connected the reverse of the way your wires are connected. I have the red battery cables on left side of solenoid and the wire to starter on the right side of solenoid is that ok does it matter what side they're on? Truck starts great now that i only changed the starter. I'm just curious to see if it matters thanks.
Hey Handyman1212, it doesn't matter which side the big cables are on. The only things that matter is they are on opposite sides and the wire that controls the solenoid is on the S terminal. All the solenoid is doing when turned on is connecting the 2 big cables together. Hope this helps give you some piece of mind!
Mike Becker, Technical Services Instructor
Thank you! Great video.
Thanks!
~Mike
super helpful Thanks!
It sounds like either you have a low battery or a defective cable. When a solenoid just does a series of clicks it means you do not have enough amperage / voltage to hold it "on". Hope this helps!
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thanks, I think that's it!
My 1998 Explorer will turn over, however it will not start. Could that possibly be a solenoid problem?
1. Access the 4WD shift module and disconnect the 5-pin and 8-pin flat connectors.
2. Perform self-test of the 4WD shift module by pushing the small button on the module and looking at the activity of the Light Emitting Diode (LED) on the module with the ignition switch in the Run position. A pass of the self-test will result in 4 flashes of the LED.
3. If the LED illuminates and stays on, replace the 4WD shift module.
Thanks brother, well done. My problem solved thankyou.
I believe it is on top of the starter.
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
Great clear video Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for watching!
~Ryan
I have a 2000 Honda Accord that has been experiencing faults for about 3 month now. It all started when i left my lights on one day and had to jump start. Since i tend to often do that, after that jump start, my car started to have a click when i yank the ignition to start it, then the second yank would turn it on.First thought was the starter, but then the starter was replaced 2012, so i was doubtful. The car had survived with the start up problem until yesterday. I try to yank it for about 5 minutes and it would get a feeling just off the edge to start but not enough power.Now it completely died, no sound at all. I jump start my battery and left it on for about 20 minutes, turned it off and on a few times after that, and it was ok. Woke up today and the entire car has dim lights, there is a short rattle noise in the first yank, follow by no sound at all. Not sure what my next move is after watching all these informal videos, any help would be appreciated. Thank you
I have a 1992 V-6 Eddie Bauer Aerostar, when I turn the key to start it, the dashboard lights up, but the engine won’t start, I try this several times and then it will start. I don’t think it is the battery because I usually charge it after the car has been setting in my air conditioned insulated Barn and I keep the Barn heated in the winter. Can you give me an idea of what to try? Oh, I am the original owner and bought it from the Ford Lima Engine Plant where the V-6 engine was built.
Turn the headlights "on" and try to start it. If the headlights go out when you try to crank the engine, it means either a low battery, cable or most common a bad connection on the battery.
Let me know,
Mark Hicks
Wells Vehicle Electronics
How do you test a three prong solenoid off of a 69 Dodge 440
So, if the solenoid starts when bridging the main connectors, will not start by key but the key wire is showing signs of power, does that mean the solenoid needs replaced?