like how you touch the history of how starter came rather than going straight to topic itself.great in depth video on starter for a beginner like myself. learnt so much today .thank you for this amazing video.
The best class I ever seen amazing everything clear and consistent explain thank you Dan I really appreciate your time and dedication. God bless America.
Dan your explanations is excellent even the person without the automobile knowledge can understand easily I got a problem on hand with Mitsubishi starter these video gave me the knowledge to my problem. Thank you very much.
Good day, thanks for sharing knowledge young man. God bless you and your family and business. Keep on giving knowledge, giving is better than receiving, blessings and happy holidays.
Out of the millions of other videos on this platform explaining starters this is the best I’ve ever seen and possibly the best of all times! Subscribing would be the least I can do to show my appreciation of this video!
I have been watching many videos related car maintenance and repairing but this video is one of the best video and one of the most helpful. Apreciate that
Absolutely a great and useful video. Atm I've got a slow cranking issue going on on my saab I've learnt 80%of he tone it's wires coursing the problem I'm yet to fully diagnose the issue.but really informative video 👍👌
Thanks for show the video I’m learn a lot today I have a 67 mustang and swap the coyote motor look like have a same function hood up the starter system you explained .very well 👍
A bit of over simplification..... was my initial thought. But this is school, so we must start with the basics, no matter how obvious some things seem to a lot of us. It was like a refresher course for me and the details are really good....... ok, ok, I forgot some stuff. 😁 Very well done! We know why you teach..... you're good at it. 👍
Forgive me for being so excited, this is my second Dan video, and another SUPER informative video, with excellent relevant historical background info. Thanks dan, super excellent presentation.
Thanks a lot and have a good one from a Romanian greenhorn! Awesome teaching skills (I am also an English teacher, so I can tell what good teaching skills are)! 🤘
I watched your video and you offer very good advice. However, I think I can add a few useful suggestions. New brushes can be easily obtained for all starters, either as brushes which need soldering individually or as a brushes and brush-plate complete. If the starter works when struck with a hammer, the brushes need replaced. This is not difficult and it's desirable to clean all the carbon dust and grease out of the motor when replacing them. When changing the brushes, if they need to be soldered to the relevant connections (field coils and brush plate), care must be taken to ensure the solder or flux does not travel along the pliable copper braid toward the brush as this will cause them to stiffen up. This is done using a heat sink on the brush leads, such as a metal clamp on the lead leaving enough un-clamped to solder. Desirable extra protection is afforded with a piece of water soaked rag wrapped round the brush and the rest of the lead on the brush side. These leads must remain flexible to allow the brush to move the full length of the travel of the brush in the brush holder. Some starter brushes are supplied complete with brush plate which makes the job a little easier. When re-assembling the motor, the bushes (not brushes) at either end should be re-greased, but not over greased. Make sure the brush leads don't touch any parts which will cause a short to earth. Before fitting the starter, "flash" the machine across a battery and if it tries to jump out of your hand, it should be good.
Don't wait 'till it dies. If it has been allowed to get to the stage where the machine is lazy, the commutator is suffering damage which will quickly cause it to be damaged because of arcing between the brushes and the commutator. The commutator can appear to be pretty bad but it may work satisfactorily by cleaning, cutting back between the segments and fitting new brushes. The commutator can also be cleaned up by turning down in a lathe, removing a bare minimum of material. If it is old and it is starting to show any symptoms of weakness, strip it, inspect it and make good any problems, such as worn bearings or carbon buildup around commutator. Scrape carbon from the insulation between the segments of the commutator and cut these back to about .5 to 1 below the level of these segments. When problems are resolved, assemble exactly as it was beforehand (assuming it was correctly assembled in the first place), using a little grease on the bearings if not a sealed type. No grease is necessary on plain bushes if these are made from phosphor-bronze, if any grease is applied, use only sparingly. Brushes, bearings, bushes, throwin components and bendixes are available for most starters fitted to cars, motorcycles, commercials; in fact virtually all starters for all types of engines for all applications made in the last 60 or 70 years. In fact I have not come across any starter for which I couldn't get parts. I hope this helps.
Brilliant,!!! I enjoyed that now I can hopefully start my 1963 Massey Ferguson 65 Diesel before I fly of the handle, starter is sluggish battery reading 12.6 v
I agree this was an incredible video! It's painful to watch other people's videos with music blaring in the background, a shaky camera, and how they chit chat for the first few minutes about some totally irrelevant sh!t, or that robotic voice that narrates while the closed captioning on screen is just murdering the words & spelling. 😂😅
I doubt the "electro magnet" demo you made was still slightly magnetic because sometimes those socket extentions or bits have magnetic material in them making your screws or bits cling to it so your screw doesn't cause such a pain. Another reason I don't think the electromagnet isn't attracting is it had no power to create the magnetic field, take a scrap crane with the electromagnet attachment on it, it doesn't attract until the operator give it juice which it then attracts. Good video though👍
Dear Sir, My congratulations for your educational, beautiful and fully explained video. But I still have some questions to ask: it often happens that the gear of the bendix does not retract into the starter motor after the engine has been started, but continues to be driven onto the flywheel. What could be the consequences of this: that the bendix, soleonide or starter motor would burn if I did not hear it and start driving my car at a higher RPM then the starter is made for? Does the bendix function a little bit like a ratchet, that it can spin freely without causing any damages? Could it be that the solenoid (relais) continues to receive electrical impulses from the ignition switch, (the electrical part from the switch) even when the ignition key is released? Or is this fault caused by the mechanical part of the starter motor? Does it then stick to the flywheel, or can it get stuck due to some dirt and no longer retract due to the current flow that isn't interrupted. I even had a strange experience about 5 months ago, that the key was in the "Run" position (and not in the start position) and the starter started the engine. This happened 3 times in one week, but in the past 5 months this didn't happen again, it disappeared on its own. I would greatly appreciate your views on this, for which I would like to thank you. Good luck with your upcoming videos.
Nice that is one of the best trys I've seen so far however the saying flying off the handle its origins is 1st used in the year of like 1840s and it meant someone going crazy like a axe head flying off the handle and that's the origin of that but I have no doubt it was just as common of your story
This guy is the real deal...great mechanical mind! Funny how Cadillac was first to make electric starters standard on all production models...then years later they placed the starter in between the valve covers underneath the intake manifold on the North Star WTH we're they thinking?! I'm starting to understand how manufacturers no longer value their customer's or the quality and longevity of their product. Now they build them to break so you have to buy another one failing to realize the negative experience can make customers try different brand makes losing past practice of longtime loyalty of car and truck buying. Just saying...
absolutely the best explanation of the starter/starter solenoid i have found anywhere. i'm currently troubleshooting a riding lawn mower starting problem. do ALL starters work via the moving plunger/fork mechanism activated by the solenoid? the reason i ask is that there are a huge number of youtube videos that show a solenoid completely physically isolated from the starter motor. does this mean that what most are calling "the solenoid" is actually different from the "starter solenoid (that is mechanically linked to the starter)"?. in other words, if the solenoid is physically separated from the starter - how do the starter teeth move into place to engage the flywheel teeth? i suspect there is much confusion about what component is actually being discussed in those other videos. likewise, successfully cranking a mower by shorting the "B" and "S" terminals with a screwdriver would actually mean the staring system problem is somewhere other than with the starter/solenoid (because otherwise - how would the plunger/fork system to engage the starter teeth into the flywheel activate?) - did i get that right? it would also be nice to hear some reasons why a starter solenoid and/or a starter motor actually fail. after removing and isolating them to a very similar benchtop setup like yours - my solenoid appears to have failed and my starter runs intermittently and begrudgingly - like it has some high internal resistance, possibly that is what caused the solenoid to fail. all i know is that my honda engine has been flawless until last year, then began becoming "cranky" - needing charging/jumping even with a new healthy battery and starting giving lots of solenoid clicking before occasionally starting up. i hesitate to simply throw in a new starter/solenoid if there is some other problem that will eventually just kill the new starter/solenoid all over again if not rectified.
Great video..................I learned a lot thankyou. I have a 1974 classic vw BUG with a starting issue. Infrequenrly, when I try to srart it, I will det absolutely nothing, no solenoid click, nada, I suspect a bad spot in the armature. Am I thinking in the right direction ??.Happens maybe once in every 20 - 40 starts.
At 19:24 it should be noted that the ignition switch does not need to be ON with the car in gear to propel the car forward (or reverse) when using the remote starter switch. That is because you are actually cranking the flywheel-clutch directly. Granted, the car will run away if the ignition is actually ON and the car would otherwise start normally. However, I've had a car jump quite a distance forward when I have forgotten to put the manual transmission in neutral. Kind of scary in hindsight !
Working on starters can indeed be very dangerous. ALWAYS have your vehicle in park or neutral with the parking brakes on all the times when messing up with starters. So many dreadful reports about people getting run over or crushed under tractors and so while the vehicles were still in gear with the guy working on them starters. Stay safe and know what you are doing.
I see that you put only 1 starter holding bolts, it should be 2 bolts, right? and also you did not tightened it. Anyway, I like your demo board, I will make my own similar to that yours. Nice presentation Dan.
I just replaced the stater on my 2013 Ford E350 and soon as I reconnected the battery, the starter started spinning. I assume I have the ignition wire touching the positive lug. I’m going to deactivate the ignition wire and attach the battery. I will then try to start it. Nothing should happen. Then I will reposition the ignition wire
So I have a Question for you? I know the answer. What happens if the starter doesn't disengage? 😮 I had this problem with a Customer years ago.. But you are pretty sharp!
⭐⭐⭐⭐🛠️🪥 What a master shade tree mechanic sharing street level test and repair methods most any mechanically inclined side of the road Grease monkey first learns from their pops or adopted parental unit as soon as legs long enough to reach go-karts gas, clutch and brake pedal or shoot a 22. So by time you and your buddies reached cruising age one is already prepared to amaze girls by getting stranded vehicle moving again. (of course fortunately anything made in the USA can be repaired with a hammer of screwdriver also engineered to be rebuilt several times over) Oh just remembered fact how early starter switches were on the floor similar to how high bright switch had also been floor mounted until moved to the steering column where operational environment was cleaner than wear ones shoes tracked in mud and salt. Floor mounted starter switches had also carried full amperage shunting between battery and starter where today's are ignition relay operated similar to magnetic contactors which uses lower v o l t switch to throw a higher amperage volt switch both separately isolated from each other.
Not sure what your Model year is that you are working with, at some point, cars have ANOTHER "THING" I don't know what it is or where it is really, that s wire is activated By something OTHER than directly turning the key, the key just activates some signal sender. there is a delay after you turn the key and let of on it. I'm thinking mines broke somehow because it has passed bench test, it passed starter relay by by pass but when I hook it all back up the key will not activate the solenoid. to do that test I grounded the case of the starter with a jumper cable
Automotive starter motors are wired as a series DC motor which has the highest starting torque of all the DC winding configurations. That, and the gear ratio between the starter pinon gear and the flywheel ring gear makes turning any engine over easy street. The series electrical connection is from the positive battery terminal, through the solenoid main contact (one), onward through one carbon motor brush, the commutator segment and windings (armature), through the series field windings, and out the other commutator segment and brush back and to the battery negative. The armature winding and field windings are in series. Don't mean to be annoying, just love revisiting my past work life.
Hello Dan. What an absolute joy to watch. You don't skip a beat. Explanatory as one could possibly be. You hit every aspect of what to do as well as what not to do. And the reasoning for all of that. God Bless and stay well. Thank you sir.
I think his secret is always remember the before time. In order to recall similar position he was in when only a lad waxing down his dealer purchased 71 and a half big mouth he finally finished paying off year of our Nations biCentennial just before tying the knot and inheriting his new wife's stack of unpaid bills.
Excellent video,very well explained the installing of the starter the bolts, was excellent how many times i heard of over tightening striping the threads you have to notice the size of the bolt and the materiel their in or made of.
I just love it when a job’s well done. Great job, Sir! Clarity incorporated into conciseness. Our public schools and even our colleges should have more teachers and professors like you. Thank you so much for giving me a little more insight into to the starting system operation!
You seriously need to start your own RUclips channel, and if you already have one could you please direct me to it. You’re an awesome teacher and instructor.
Excellent guidance here, but with one caveat. At 25:20 into the video, you're energising the solenoid but it doesn't pull in. You can hear the arcing being caused as you connected your battery pack to the body of the solenoid, so clearly there's a circuit there. By connecting the way that you did, you were only energising the 'hold' coil of the solenoid. Your battery pack was not weak at all. There are two windings in the solenoid, one is called the 'pull in' winding (very strong) and the other is called the 'hold in' winding (relatively weak). They are wound on top of each other. This is why when you nudged the magnetic core with your finger, it popped in. Your finger did the initial 'pull in' job! The hold winding is connected across the 'S' terminal and the body of the starter. The pull in winding is connected across the 'S' terminal and the load side of the solenoid's main contacts. The pull in winding gets it's earth return via the armature's brushes and windings. (one of the motor's brushes is connected solidly to the body of the starter as that's the earth return for the main starter motor current). After the pull in winding has done it's job, and has pulled the core all the way in, the solenoid's main contacts are bridged and send power to the armature (motor spins up) AND at the same time kills the power to the pull winding because now, the winding has 12v on each of it's ends and so because there is no potential difference across the winding, it's magnetic field collapses and it stops pulling. However, the hold winding is energised all the time (when you're calling for cranking) and it then just takes over and holds the core right up at the end of it's travel. When (if??!) your engine fires up, you release the key from the crank position and the hold winding loses it's grip on the core and the core is sent back down to it's rest position by spring pressure. The way that the pull winding has been wired inside the starter means that a poor or non-existent brush contact with the armature segments will prevent the pull winding from working as there will be no earth return path. This could lead you down a slippery diagnosis path! It would be easy to condemn a solenoid because you can't see or hear any activity from it, when in fact it cannot work because it's earth return path is compromised by bad brushes. This is not meant as a criticism at all. I appreciate all the hard work and time that you must have to put in each and every one of your videos. But if the above helps someone understand how the solenoid works a little better, that's good!
Yes, exactly this- just saw the video and posted the same, and see this was already covered a year before here 👍 kind of a neat setup using the motor as the virtual ground, since it's so much lower impedance than the solenoid.
I'm attempting this tomorrow morning on this exact vehicle. I hope it goes as smooth as you make it look, for me. one thing i will say before i even attempt this you have given me confidence to try to at least fix it on my own so thank you for this great video. ill edit when I'm done EDIT: went great took me a lil under an hour to finish the job working off my back with no helper for socket changes etc.. thanks for the video !
I absolutely learn more in this video than an entire day searching other RUclips tutorials . Like other have mentioned , you are absolutely great at explaining things . Now back to my starting problem in my ‘67 Cadillac .
Many car engines didn't have a reduction gearbox at their front to engage the crank handle, they had a direct drive slotted starting 'dog' (? ) with ramps to engage a pin traversing the handle so that if the engine rotated in the opposite direction it would tend to eject the handle (maybe the handle engagement means on all vehicles didn't have a contra-rotation ejection means (?) - nevertheless in the 1950's one occasionally still came across people with broken arms which they attributed to cranking an engine - still very useful in case of a 'flat' battery. Around 1969 I purchased a new Commer van - made by Chrysler in the UK - the engine had a starting 'dog' at the engine front + an aperture in the bumper .... but a crank handle wasn't supplied. The van had an automatic transmission - 'Borg-Warner 45' I think - and if you had a decent downhill run the engine would start.
![How To Test and Diagnose Relays and Wiring [4 & 5 Pin]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/S-DwV0HLsE4/mqdefault.jpg)
like how you touch the history of how starter came rather than going straight to topic itself.great in depth video on starter for a beginner like myself. learnt so much today .thank you for this amazing video.
The best class I ever seen amazing everything clear and consistent explain thank you Dan I really appreciate your time and dedication. God bless America.
I replaced starters back in the 1960's so it's nice to see an update video by an instructor, I did learn a little from this video! Thanks
I rebuilt them in the 70's
Starters are honestly one of the few things that they haven't really managed to overcomplicate. The only hard part on newer cars is getting to them.
One of the best instructors on RUclips in the top 10 for sure
Dan your explanations is excellent even the person without the automobile knowledge can understand easily I got a problem on hand with Mitsubishi starter these video gave me the knowledge to my problem. Thank you very much.
I have watched alot of other youtube mechanics on many many auto issues & u are amoung my top 3. Thanks for the in depth info with no frills. 👍
Good day, thanks for sharing knowledge young man. God bless you and your family and business. Keep on giving knowledge, giving is better than receiving, blessings and happy holidays.
Great video Dan. I learned quite a lot today, I didn’t get cranky or fly off the handle. Thanks.
Out of the millions of other videos on this platform explaining starters this is the best I’ve ever seen and possibly the best of all times! Subscribing would be the least I can do to show my appreciation of this video!
I have been watching many videos related car maintenance and repairing but this video is one of the best video and one of the most helpful. Apreciate that
I thought my auto mechanics teacher was good in high school, but good lawd.......my hats off to you!!!!!
Absolutely excellent, outstanding, informative, educational, helpful, well organized, superb instructions.
Very good video, great bit of history as well. Enjoyed all of it. Cheers !
auto mechanic and some drivers are still using the screwdriver trick. It was a very superb instruction . Love it.
You've explained every details very clear. Thank you I've learned alot from your video.
Absolutely a great and useful video. Atm I've got a slow cranking issue going on on my saab I've learnt 80%of he tone it's wires coursing the problem I'm yet to fully diagnose the issue.but really informative video 👍👌
The best explannition yet on how startes work. Thanks helped me fix my clicking starter.
Thanks for show the video I’m learn a lot today I have a 67 mustang and swap the coyote motor look like have a same function hood up the starter system you explained .very well 👍
A bit of over simplification..... was my initial thought.
But this is school, so we must start with the basics, no matter how obvious some things seem to a lot of us. It was like a refresher course for me and the details are really good....... ok, ok, I forgot some stuff. 😁
Very well done! We know why you teach..... you're good at it. 👍
Forgive me for being so excited, this is my second Dan video, and another SUPER informative video, with excellent relevant historical background info. Thanks dan, super excellent presentation.
no one is going to heaven after listening and recognizing the intro music...
Thanks a lot and have a good one from a Romanian greenhorn! Awesome teaching skills (I am also an English teacher, so I can tell what good teaching skills are)! 🤘
I watched your video and you offer very good advice. However, I think I can add a few useful suggestions.
New brushes can be easily obtained for all starters, either as brushes which need soldering individually or as a brushes and brush-plate complete.
If the starter works when struck with a hammer, the brushes need replaced.
This is not difficult and it's desirable to clean all the carbon dust and grease out of the motor when replacing them.
When changing the brushes, if they need to be soldered to the relevant connections (field coils and brush plate), care must be taken to ensure the solder or flux does not travel along the pliable copper braid toward the brush as this will cause them to stiffen up.
This is done using a heat sink on the brush leads, such as a metal clamp on the lead leaving enough un-clamped to solder. Desirable extra protection is afforded with a piece of water soaked rag wrapped round the brush and the rest of the lead on the brush side.
These leads must remain flexible to allow the brush to move the full length of the travel of the brush in the brush holder.
Some starter brushes are supplied complete with brush plate which makes the job a little easier.
When re-assembling the motor, the bushes (not brushes) at either end should be re-greased, but not over greased. Make sure the brush leads don't touch any parts which will cause a short to earth. Before fitting the starter, "flash" the machine across a battery and if it tries to jump out of your hand, it should be good.
Don't wait 'till it dies.
If it has been allowed to get to the stage where the machine is lazy, the commutator is suffering damage which will quickly cause it to be damaged because of arcing between the brushes and the commutator.
The commutator can appear to be pretty bad but it may work satisfactorily by cleaning, cutting back between the segments and fitting new brushes. The commutator can also be cleaned up by turning down in a lathe, removing a bare minimum of material.
If it is old and it is starting to show any symptoms of weakness, strip it, inspect it and make good any problems, such as worn bearings or carbon buildup around commutator.
Scrape carbon from the insulation between the segments of the commutator and cut these back to about .5 to 1 below the level of these segments.
When problems are resolved, assemble exactly as it was beforehand (assuming it was correctly assembled in the first place), using a little grease on the bearings if not a sealed type.
No grease is necessary on plain bushes if these are made from phosphor-bronze, if any grease is applied, use only sparingly.
Brushes, bearings, bushes, throwin components and bendixes are available for most starters fitted to cars, motorcycles, commercials; in fact virtually all starters for all types of engines for all applications made in the last 60 or 70 years. In fact I have not come across any starter for which I couldn't get parts.
I hope this helps.
Brilliant,!!! I enjoyed that now I can hopefully start my 1963 Massey Ferguson 65 Diesel before I fly of the handle, starter is sluggish battery reading 12.6 v
This guy right here!!!! Big Dan the Man!!! Another EXCELLENT and well defined instructional video my friend!!!! Awesome lesson👍🏾💯🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I agree this was an incredible video! It's painful to watch other people's videos with music blaring in the background, a shaky camera, and how they chit chat for the first few minutes about some totally irrelevant sh!t, or that robotic voice that narrates while the closed captioning on screen is just murdering the words & spelling. 😂😅
I doubt the "electro magnet" demo you made was still slightly magnetic because sometimes those socket extentions or bits have magnetic material in them making your screws or bits cling to it so your screw doesn't cause such a pain. Another reason I don't think the electromagnet isn't attracting is it had no power to create the magnetic field, take a scrap crane with the electromagnet attachment on it, it doesn't attract until the operator give it juice which it then attracts. Good video though👍
Respected sir
I love your video, it is one of the best videos I ever saw on internet.
Thanks a lot for making and uploading video.
Regards
Fully explored and explaining about starter. Thank you.
Thank you so much! You are truly talented teacher!
Dear Sir,
My congratulations for your educational, beautiful and fully explained video.
But I still have some questions to ask: it often happens that the gear of the bendix does not retract into the starter motor after the engine has been started, but continues to be driven onto the flywheel.
What could be the consequences of this: that the bendix, soleonide or starter motor would burn if I did not hear it and start driving my car at a higher RPM then the starter is made for?
Does the bendix function a little bit like a ratchet, that it can spin freely without causing any damages?
Could it be that the solenoid (relais) continues to receive electrical impulses from the ignition switch, (the electrical part from the switch) even when the ignition key is released?
Or is this fault caused by the mechanical part of the starter motor?
Does it then stick to the flywheel, or can it get stuck due to some dirt and no longer retract due to the current flow that isn't interrupted.
I even had a strange experience about 5 months ago, that the key was in the "Run" position (and not in the start position) and the starter started the engine.
This happened 3 times in one week, but in the past 5 months this didn't happen again, it disappeared on its own.
I would greatly appreciate your views on this, for which I would like to thank you.
Good luck with your upcoming videos.
What kind of human thumbs down such great content?
22:24 me: *JAMS SKREWDRIVER IN THERE*
Really !! Thanks So Much after Years ?? Well hours of trying 2 find Info on doing repairs I found You Guys "Yes" again Really Thanks 4 the Info
Haha well that' s all there is to be said about that subject. Nice video, lots of attention to details! multi levels learning experience
Awesome demo & explanation
Nice that is one of the best trys I've seen so far however the saying flying off the handle its origins is 1st used in the year of like 1840s and it meant someone going crazy like a axe head flying off the handle and that's the origin of that but I have no doubt it was just as common of your story
Was here cause my car crank but won't start but now I'm hook on watching this 😆
at first the uniforms confused me. Thought it was some UPS guy.
cool vid thanks guys
This guy is the real deal...great mechanical mind! Funny how Cadillac was first to make electric starters standard on all production models...then years later they placed the starter in between the valve covers underneath the intake manifold on the North Star WTH we're they thinking?! I'm starting to understand how manufacturers no longer value their customer's or the quality and longevity of their product. Now they build them to break so you have to buy another one failing to realize the negative experience can make customers try different brand makes losing past practice of longtime loyalty of car and truck buying. Just saying...
absolutely the best explanation of the starter/starter solenoid i have found anywhere. i'm currently troubleshooting a riding lawn mower starting problem. do ALL starters work via the moving plunger/fork mechanism activated by the solenoid? the reason i ask is that there are a huge number of youtube videos that show a solenoid completely physically isolated from the starter motor. does this mean that what most are calling "the solenoid" is actually different from the "starter solenoid (that is mechanically linked to the starter)"?. in other words, if the solenoid is physically separated from the starter - how do the starter teeth move into place to engage the flywheel teeth? i suspect there is much confusion about what component is actually being discussed in those other videos. likewise, successfully cranking a mower by shorting the "B" and "S" terminals with a screwdriver would actually mean the staring system problem is somewhere other than with the starter/solenoid (because otherwise - how would the plunger/fork system to engage the starter teeth into the flywheel activate?) - did i get that right?
it would also be nice to hear some reasons why a starter solenoid and/or a starter motor actually fail. after removing and isolating them to a very similar benchtop setup like yours - my solenoid appears to have failed and my starter runs intermittently and begrudgingly - like it has some high internal resistance, possibly that is what caused the solenoid to fail. all i know is that my honda engine has been flawless until last year, then began becoming "cranky" - needing charging/jumping even with a new healthy battery and starting giving lots of solenoid clicking before occasionally starting up. i hesitate to simply throw in a new starter/solenoid if there is some other problem that will eventually just kill the new starter/solenoid all over again if not rectified.
i like your badges on your sleeve
EXCELLENT video.....Thanks
What a video !! Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
Thanks for teaching great video
Wonderful thanks a lot for this enlightening
Great video..................I learned a lot thankyou. I have a 1974 classic vw BUG with a starting issue. Infrequenrly, when I try to srart it, I will det absolutely nothing, no solenoid click, nada, I suspect a bad spot in the armature. Am I thinking in the right direction ??.Happens maybe once in every 20 - 40 starts.
Nice and very informative 🙌
Very educational, great teaching
At 19:24 it should be noted that the ignition switch does not need to be ON with the car in gear to propel the car forward (or reverse) when using the remote starter switch. That is because you are actually cranking the flywheel-clutch directly. Granted, the car will run away if the ignition is actually ON and the car would otherwise start normally. However, I've had a car jump quite a distance forward when I have forgotten to put the manual transmission in neutral. Kind of scary in hindsight !
i like this guy, he is knowledgeable
Working on starters can indeed be very dangerous. ALWAYS have your vehicle in park or neutral with the parking brakes on all the times when messing up with starters. So many dreadful reports about people getting run over or crushed under tractors and so while the vehicles were still in gear with the guy working on them starters. Stay safe and know what you are doing.
I agree!
That was an excellent vid
Thanks
Thank you Professor!
Love the history i got a 94 4 9 caddy
absolute amazing video
Great job very informative
I see that you put only 1 starter holding bolts, it should be 2 bolts, right? and also you did not tightened it. Anyway, I like your demo board, I will make my own similar to that yours. Nice presentation Dan.
A great teacher!
Very helpful advice
I just replaced the stater on my 2013 Ford E350 and soon as I reconnected the battery, the starter started spinning. I assume I have the ignition wire touching the positive lug. I’m going to deactivate the ignition wire and attach the battery. I will then try to start it. Nothing should happen. Then I will reposition the ignition wire
good ,grazie beautifull video.
Excellent video
I jumped it from the 2 ports were the starter relay goes and it did crank that also means the starter is good?
So I have a Question for you? I know the answer. What happens if the starter doesn't disengage? 😮 I had this problem with a Customer years ago.. But you are pretty sharp!
⭐⭐⭐⭐🛠️🪥 What a master shade tree mechanic sharing street level test and repair methods most any mechanically inclined side of the road Grease monkey first learns from their pops or adopted parental unit as soon as legs long enough to reach go-karts gas, clutch and brake pedal or shoot a 22. So by time you and your buddies reached cruising age one is already prepared to amaze girls by getting stranded vehicle moving again.
(of course fortunately anything made in the USA can be repaired with a hammer of screwdriver also engineered to be rebuilt several times over)
Oh just remembered fact how early starter switches were on the floor similar to how high bright switch had also been floor mounted until moved to the steering column where operational environment was cleaner than wear ones shoes tracked in mud and salt. Floor mounted starter switches had also carried full amperage shunting between battery and starter where today's are ignition relay operated similar to magnetic contactors which uses lower v o l t switch to throw a higher amperage volt switch both separately isolated from each other.
Most of the time I notice the solenoid is the one that goes bad since the motor is just spins when you start the car.
100% !!! 80% of the time, the Solenoid go bad first!
Liked the history lesson!
Do you have a wiring Diagram on a 2006-2008 hyundai santa fe/
How to check a relay to a starter on a hyundai santa fe
Not sure what your Model year is that you are working with, at some point, cars have ANOTHER "THING" I don't know what it is or where it is really, that s wire is activated By something OTHER than directly turning the key, the key just activates some signal sender. there is a delay after you turn the key and let of on it. I'm thinking mines broke somehow because it has passed bench test, it passed starter relay by by pass but when I hook it all back up the key will not activate the solenoid. to do that test I grounded the case of the starter with a jumper cable
A good informative video. Wish to join the school.
Thank you very much sir👍
very informative video. Thanks.
thanks teacher perfect information
Excellent !
It's averagely a 100 amps for a starter, I believe, correct?
wow u briefly described it tnx
What about the solenoid 'R' terminal on pre 67 GM ?
🤔Thanks for sharing ❤️
very informative thanks
In jumping across B to disconnected S terminal, can't I just pull the distributor wire to keep engine from starting (assuming I have one)?
How do you make sure the teeth always line up with the fly wheel teeth?
The teeth on the starter spur gear have a sloping leading edge and naturally engage whatever position the flywheel is sitting.
Hi great video i have a problem with my starter motor i was told its polling and then running the battery flat does that sound right.
Thanks for info sir...
very interesant thanks i like
Dan thank u an much respect ASE
i thought ferris ment magnetic ? our it's genericly used to refer to any metal that's magnetic. Iron must be the only thing
so usefull & applicable
nice video
Thank you it was good explanations
rebgan rebgan
Automotive starter motors are wired as a series DC motor which has the highest starting torque of all the DC winding configurations. That, and the gear ratio between the starter pinon gear and the flywheel ring gear makes turning any engine over easy street.
The series electrical connection is from the positive battery terminal, through the solenoid main contact (one), onward through one carbon motor brush, the commutator segment and windings (armature), through the series field windings, and out the other commutator segment and brush back and to the battery negative. The armature winding and field windings are in series.
Don't mean to be annoying, just love revisiting my past work life.
Hello Dan. What an absolute joy to watch. You don't skip a beat. Explanatory as one could possibly be. You hit every aspect of what to do as well as what not to do. And the reasoning for all of that. God Bless and stay well. Thank you sir.
I think his secret is always remember the before time. In order to recall similar position he was in when only a lad waxing down his dealer purchased 71 and a half big mouth he finally finished paying off year of our Nations biCentennial
just before tying the knot and inheriting his new wife's stack of unpaid bills.
Hello Dan ur amazing teacher I have ever seen in this world am joel
Excellent video,very well explained the installing of the starter the bolts, was excellent how many times i heard of over tightening striping the threads you have to notice the size of the bolt and the materiel their in or made of.
I just love it when a job’s well done. Great job, Sir! Clarity incorporated into conciseness. Our public schools and even our colleges should have more teachers and professors like you.
Thank you so much for giving me a little more insight into to the starting system operation!
Where is the clicking sound coming from when I cact start car
You seriously need to start your own RUclips channel, and if you already have one could you please direct me to it. You’re an awesome teacher and instructor.
Hmm Very interesting ,
Excellent guidance here, but with one caveat.
At 25:20 into the video, you're energising the solenoid but it doesn't pull in. You can hear the arcing being caused as you connected your battery pack to the body of the solenoid, so clearly there's a circuit there. By connecting the way that you did, you were only energising the 'hold' coil of the solenoid. Your battery pack was not weak at all.
There are two windings in the solenoid, one is called the 'pull in' winding (very strong) and the other is called the 'hold in' winding (relatively weak). They are wound on top of each other. This is why when you nudged the magnetic core with your finger, it popped in. Your finger did the initial 'pull in' job!
The hold winding is connected across the 'S' terminal and the body of the starter.
The pull in winding is connected across the 'S' terminal and the load side of the solenoid's main contacts. The pull in winding gets it's earth return via the armature's brushes and windings. (one of the motor's brushes is connected solidly to the body of the starter as that's the earth return for the main starter motor current).
After the pull in winding has done it's job, and has pulled the core all the way in, the solenoid's main contacts are bridged and send power to the armature (motor spins up) AND at the same time kills the power to the pull winding because now, the winding has 12v on each of it's ends and so because there is no potential difference across the winding, it's magnetic field collapses and it stops pulling. However, the hold winding is energised all the time (when you're calling for cranking) and it then just takes over and holds the core right up at the end of it's travel.
When (if??!) your engine fires up, you release the key from the crank position and the hold winding loses it's grip on the core and the core is sent back down to it's rest position by spring pressure.
The way that the pull winding has been wired inside the starter means that a poor or non-existent brush contact with the armature segments will prevent the pull winding from working as there will be no earth return path. This could lead you down a slippery diagnosis path! It would be easy to condemn a solenoid because you can't see or hear any activity from it, when in fact it cannot work because it's earth return path is compromised by bad brushes.
This is not meant as a criticism at all. I appreciate all the hard work and time that you must have to put in each and every one of your videos. But if the above helps someone understand how the solenoid works a little better, that's good!
Xm,as
Yes, exactly this- just saw the video and posted the same, and see this was already covered a year before here 👍
kind of a neat setup using the motor as the virtual ground, since it's so much lower impedance than the solenoid.
one of best video i have ever seen in automechanic on youtube
I'm attempting this tomorrow morning on this exact vehicle. I hope it goes as smooth as you make it look, for me. one thing i will say before i even attempt this you have given me confidence to try to at least fix it on my own so thank you for this great video. ill edit when I'm done
EDIT: went great took me a lil under an hour to finish the job working off my back with no helper for socket changes etc.. thanks for the video !
This instructor is on of the best on the field. I like the clear way to explain technical concepts.
I absolutely learn more in this video than an entire day searching other RUclips tutorials .
Like other have mentioned , you are absolutely great at explaining things .
Now back to my starting problem in my ‘67 Cadillac .
Many car engines didn't have a reduction gearbox at their front to engage the crank handle, they had a direct drive slotted starting 'dog' (? ) with ramps to engage a pin traversing the handle so that if the engine rotated in the opposite direction it would tend to eject the handle (maybe the handle engagement means on all vehicles didn't have a contra-rotation ejection means (?) - nevertheless in the 1950's one occasionally still came across people with broken arms which they attributed to cranking an engine - still very useful in case of a 'flat' battery.
Around 1969 I purchased a new Commer van - made by Chrysler in the UK - the engine had a starting 'dog' at the engine front + an aperture in the bumper .... but a crank handle wasn't supplied.
The van had an automatic transmission - 'Borg-Warner 45' I think - and if you had a decent downhill run the engine would start.