2024 Integra Type S (DE5) Oil Change and Used Oil Analysis (UOA)
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- Cherry Bomb (2024 Acura Integra Type S) got her 3000 mile oil change. Initial oil change was completed at 991 miles, when a magnetic oil drain plug was installed along with neodymium magnets on the oil filter.
Let's see what shows up in the oil analysis after just 2009 miles of service.
Votex M14 x 1.5 x 18MM P/N: DP001
Another old man DE5 ITS owner here. Just found your channel. Glad to have found it. About to do 1st oil change 1k miles
Well I'm glad you found it as well! 😀. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please don't forget to like and subscribe.
Not sure looking at your oil but I thought I read a GF4…I know years ago all the Honda’s were experiencing problems with the turbos and Honda switched to a GF6 and it’s fixed the problem…secondly I think the best oil is the Pennzoil Ultra. Nice video btw.
First, thanks for watching and commenting. Big help to the channel!
Amsoil 0W20 OE (what I used) is GF6 rated. You can verify by checking their Product Data Sheet at the link below. In fact, one of the reasons I selected Amsoil for Cherry Bomb was due to it exceeding the standards of a DEXOS test that tests for LSPI events, an issue that affects turbo DI engines specifically and can be catastrophic. Specifically, the test in question allows a number of LSPI events during the test in order for the oil to carry that certification. Amsoil had zero events after multiple iterations of the test mentioned at the link below).
I have seen good test data for PUP and by all accounts, it appears to be very good oil to be sure. I have even consider giving it a go. I like the idea of starting from a NG base. It's still considered a Group III+ base stock, vs Amsoil using Group IV. I would say, it's hard to make such a definitive statement about "the best oil". Different oils can in fact perform differently in different engine applications. The only way to know for sure what is going on is with used oil analysis.
I'm planning to continue providing UOA for my application for people to use for their own consideration.
www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-oe-0w-20-100-synthetic-motor-oil-oez/?srsltid=AfmBOormx1EZwYZzwzN7wEYxuqdXVBhzXN-mw-7i9cec5YezN_-j7vhh
Beautiful car.
Thank you!
17:17 This shouldn't be controversial at this point. I wasn't sure whether or not it was necessary but your oil pressure builds faster if you pre-fill the oil filter or use any equivalent to clear flood mode to crank the engine without ignition to prime the oiling system. Folks like Lake Speed Jr. have demonstrated this point enough that I think that debate is over now.
Agreed
I've always prefilled filters on vehicles that allow it. And there is actual wear data out there that proves you should prefill. I don't care what uncle Billy bob has been doing as a mechanic for 40 years. :) Those first few seconds of startup are crucial and the data proves it.
Appreciate the comment and support!
@@CherryBombITS Yessir, and nice car ! I have a highly modified Accord (FK8 Turbo)with the 2.0T and just picked up a Boost Blue Type R and plan on keeping them running for a long time!
I love the thorough analysis, and you are doing exactly what I have done in the past with other cars I’ve owned but honestly have lost interest in doing with my still brand new ITS. My ITS currently has 1500 miles on the new motor and it’s been one month since I took receipt of it off the factory truck.
I’ve done the Blackstone UOA reports on my previous two modified turbo engines (a 2015 Fiesta ST & a 2019 WRX) with both of those cars having a host of bolt ons added plus “performance tunes”. I plan to keep my ITS stock and just maintain it really well.
Like you I want to be “that guy” who can one day boast about having enjoyed the car AND STILL ENJOYING IT for several hundred thousand miles and counting! I will not change the factory fill until 3500 miles and will have the Acura dealership do all maintenance. I’ll watch and make sure my preferred service department does a good job.
I like seeing the Blackstone recommendation of a 5400 mile OCI but me personally I’m going to stick with a 3500 OCI just because it won’t hurt. Factory OW-20 oil and filter with 93 octane fuel plus good operational habits will hopefully serve me very well in the longterm. With the Fiesta ST and WRX I was AMSoil only and always did my own changes plus a UOA. Even when pushing power WAY beyond factory levels the UOA always showed excellent results (once beyond break in) and the recommendations was always that I could go beyond my usual 5k mile OCI. With my ITS and dealer servicing I’ll still stick with the 3500 mile OCI.
That’s a beautiful machine you have and thank you for sharing the report! Enjoy your baby!
Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad you enjoyed the content. Thank you for commenting. I firmly believe in taking care of my nice things to keep them nice. Maybe we'll meet up in a few hundred thousand miles to compare notes.
Thanks for the detail! I own a 24 Type R. Didn’t do my first oil change until 4500 miles. Reason I waited was because Honda has advised their techs that there is Molly grease in that break in oil. A seasoned Honda tech also told me he was advised to leave the factory oil for at least 7k miles. Recently, a Honda engineer also stated that this Molly grease is applied to motors with factory fill. Arguably, Molly grease helps prevent the early wear that you talk about and helps lubricate other internal moving parts. That being said, I bet even automotive engineers argue about break in oil and interval changes. Ultimately, it’s really up to the owners!
Let me start with saying thank you for watching and the great comment. Please like and subscribe to help the channel.
Yes, I've been hearing about this alleged guidance to service departments but yet to see anyone who can produce evidence of this guidance.
The assembly lube used does in fact contain MoS2, a dry lube version of Moly. The function of assembly lube is to help get parts to slide together and to lubricate them until the oil gets to the part, washes out the lube, and the oil takes over the duty of lubricating.
In the initial oil fill is Honda/Acura branded oil you find at the service department. It contains a fairly standard mix of additives including MoDTC, a oil soluble form of Moly that does better at not falling out of the oil and settling into the oil pan.
I say that to say this. Given the function of assembly lube and that the moly type used will mostly find its way into the bottom of the oil pan rather than providing some extra break-in benefit that Moly containing oils will surely provide regardless, I don't buy the leave it in until 7k rumors.
I suspect, if Honda/Acura have in fact sent this information to their service centers, it's less about break-in benefit and more to ensure they're only doing two to three oil changes covered by the factory service plan. These are only performed once the maintenance minder reaches 15-20%, which in most cases is about 7500 miles. I can't prove my theory, but it fits better the purpose of assembly lube and the different types of moly involved.
As you say, it's really up the owners in the end.
I was told that a Honda/Acura dealer won’t perform the new car purchase free lube service unless the maintenance remove under days 15-20% remaining life.
@CherryBombITS I agree with why Acura dealers tell you about the leaving the original oil until you get to 15%. It's to save on their end for the free maintenance. I've watched many savage geese videos. Many of their reviews actually involve discussing the cars with the people that built them. They have really good reviews regarding type S and type R. In short what the dealers have been saying about oil change intervals is just to save on those free oil changes. Many cars do not have the so called break in oil. I agree with your take on oil changes. Where can you get those drain plugs?
Most mainstream car models are no longer shipped with break-in oil. They're being shipped with normal oil with full additive packages to enable the oil to run for the full OCI.
To be clear, the break-in change I did wasn't because of there being break-in oil in the engine form factory. It was purely about getting the initial wear metals out that get produced during the break-in period.
people pay 100k for a car and don’t even change the oil 😂
Yeah it's crazy out there.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Please like and subscribe to help the channel.
Nice ITS
What kind of oil can catcher did you buy? And why did you pick that one?
Thank you
Radium Engineering. It had a dip stick for checking fluid in the can, a bottom drain so that I didn't have to remove the can to empty, and the kit was plug and play with everything specifically needed for the DE5/FL5 platform like mounting brackets.
Please note though, I checked it at 2700 miles after being installed at 991 miles. It had some fluid in it, light in color, on the dip stick. When I did my oil change at 3000 miles, no fluid came out. I'm planning to do some more long term testing but it's possible that the AOS design of the K20C1/8 engines with a high quality oil with low volatility makes their use unjustified. More to follow in future videos on that.
Cool thank you. I’m still worried about the valves issue and oil dilution with these DGI engines.
Did you buy the radium kit with the PCV can or just the oil catch can kit?
Sorry to bother you, but do you have a model number?
No bother at all.
I was concerned about the fuel dilution with the turbo GDI engines, but it seems this issue was specifically related to the turbo L15 series, not the K20 series. My oil analysis showed good results for low levels of fuel present and oil that was still in grade for viscosity (the primary concern with fuel dilution is reduced viscosity). Granted that was only 2009 miles of use. So I'll be looking forward to my first 5k used oil analysis which I'll be sharing on my channel to see if there is an issue.
That said, the catch can does not affect fuel dilution. By the time fuel vapor is caught and condensed in the can it is because it has been pushed out of the crank case, through the PCV system. This is a good thing. It also isn't bad for this fuel vapor to find its way back into the intake system as it won't cause carbon deposits on the valves.
The primary benefit to the catch can is in catching oil vapor before it gets to the valves to cause the issues we see there. This is what I'll be watching for in my own set up.
Sorry for going off on a tangent there. To your question, I bought the Dual Catch Can kit, which includes a can for PCV and for CCV. I have only installed the PCV. I do not think I will install the CCV. What I am contemplating is installing the second can in series with the current PCV can, so that there are two cans to catch vapor from the PCV.
I used the FL5 kit. www.radiumauto.com/Catch-Can-Kits-2017-Civic-Type-R-P1447.aspx
Hope this helps.
@@CherryBombITS
Thank you for the post. I just ordered this kit from Radium.
Very detailed post and video..thanks. I also agree with your oil change intervals.500/3000/every 3-5k miles from there.
The drain plug is 17mm or 18mm,
Correct. I screwed up by looking at the wrong drain plug I bought for the transmission. DP001 is 18mm.
Hello:
How did you drain the OCC and not drip any of the liquid into the engine bay?
Thanks.
The OCC has a bottom drain tube and valve. Tube is long enough that it comes down next to the drain plug and dumps into the oil pan.
However, I didn't in fact have anything to drain. Over the previous 300 miles, what was in there evaporated so I'm thinking it was condensed gas or water blow by. No oil.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Please like and subscribe to help out the channel.
Thank you.
My radium did not come with a drain tube, I did see an Allen head plug in the bottom of the can. Bit nowhere to attach a drain tube.
Did I miss something from you post?
Thank you again.
www.radiumauto.com/Catch-Can-Petcock-Drain-Kit-P367.aspx
Big Thanks again!!
GREAT video man. just subbed, love the car. I also prefill my filters. I did in the ARMY, I did when I worked in the mines, and I do on my personals.
Thank you! Appreciate the sub from a fellow Soldier.
Will it take you till retirement to pay it off?😂
Already retired...from the Army. So my second retirement? 🤣 Not even close.
Which raceramps are those please?
Thanks for watching and commenting. They are Race Ramps RR-80-10-2 Two-Piece 80"
@@CherryBombITS Thanks much!