VRM’s channel was mentioned at the end of the vid. Here’s a link to his channel. Be sure to give him a sub while your at it. ruclips.net/channel/UC_MrqrP4l78-u6r3X12aJtQ
This is what's in the factory programming for fan control on an SN car. I dropped those about 30 degrees on these for my son's 94GT and other son's 94 Cobra. Fan - High Speed On Temp #1 224.00 Deg F Fan - High Speed On Temp #2 228.00 Deg F Fan - Low Speed Off Temp 212.00 Deg F Fan - Low Speed On Temp 216.00 Deg F
Thanks for the post. My next project is getting the roller 5 speed 94 GT running for my daughter. I bought a running, rusty 94 auto GT for parts. My daughter does not want to learn to drive stick. I already freshened up an Explorer long block by lapping the valves and replacing the bearings. I have the external EGR Explorer intake and a TFS elbow for it and some BBK SN95 shorties with a 2 cat H pipe and a stock 98 Cobra cat back. My plan is to pull the AODE first from the parts car and assemble it onto the back of the Explorer engine and bolt it in the body. I then plan to pull the vacuum and wiring from the parts car piece by piece to get her EFI setup running. Not really looking forward to this job. I am more of a carb guy. The roller was previously a supercharged 347 with a Systemax, fox throttle body and TFI on the distributor and no smog stuff. I want to get it back to stockish with just the Explorer intake and heads as an upgrade.
Happy Independence Day to you, Richard, and to Ray. Yeah, a cowl induction type hood is not going to help with cooling, as it uses the pressure zone at the base of the windshield to push air in for the induction system, rather than out. The old 427 era Ford teardrop scoops were constructed to help cool the engine bay, since they needed something to clear the induction system anyway. If you look at them, you see that the screened openings on the back side of the big bulge are quite a ways from the pressure area at the base of the windshield. I would be beyond agog, though, to find that anyone made that style of scoop for foxbody and beyond Mustangs, and I'm sure the style would make many of the later generation of owners retch. ;) Your beefier rad, Cobra "splitter" and fan re-engineering did what ya need, so you're a winner.
Hey it’s Ray here. I never knew that!!! I’m sure you seen the poor man’s wind tunnel (or maybe you have done it yourself). At any rate, I’m going to put some pieces of string around my cowl hood and windshield. Like Richard, I always thought cowl hoods let hot air escape. I know it’s called “cowl induction” but it went over my head lol. Thanks for the knowledge Z!!!
That's some good advice and there's more than one way to skin a cat. And you fixed it if it's not running hot anymore and nothing wrong with that. I busted out laughing when you said that it made the high speed work because "well I don't know " 😂 now that is keeping it real instead of faking it like most people would do lol I like your channel one of my favorites and that car sounds sweet. I knew that u were in the south somewhere but I didn't know that u were in Alabama. I caught a glimpse of your tag and can recognize it anywhere plus I have the same tag on some of my vehicles or one of the 4 that I own. What part of Alabama are u from I'm in ozark about 20 miles north of dothan which u may know where that's at but I'm working on a 79 pinto and building a 347 for it and I am the one that sent those parts to David that you was asking about a video of porting so p heads I went down and watched them at the track last weekend. They are some cool guys and I meet tussin also and his failTD. He has that thing running strong but it wasn't but a hr and half to 2 he drive to their track. But yeah man keep them coming I like your videos 👍🏼👌🏼🚗💨💨💨💨🦊
Thanks man!!! I’m about an hour north of Birmingham, yeah you’re way down south! Looking forward to you getting that Pinto going, 347s sound so good. David and Co. are a fun crew to hang out with, whole lot of knowledge in that group. good luck with your build.
@@Sikulz thanks man are u up around Jasper I go up there often but yeah I enjoyed hanging out with those guys and they do know their stuff and I don't mind sitting around and absorbing some of it and they are fun to be around but yeah man I can't wait until I get my 347 going it's my first stroker build so I'm kinda excited about it. You got that blue car sounding good. I hope mine sounds as good as it does. It should I got a decent size little cam for it but yeah man you seem like a good cool guy yourself and can't wait to see more
Just replaced my CCRM on my 97 cobra. It's a dirty little move ford got away with until 2004. It's a a metal box, riveted sealed unit. And it's located directly above the passenger front, inside the wheel well cover. What makes it such a scumbag move is that all it is are 5 normal plug-in relays that should have always been in the fuse box so you could change them with ease like the rest. But instead they soldered them all on one circuit board tucked away out of sight. In the worst possible area for electrical components. Also made little to no mentions about repair. Basically just "in the unlikely rare event visit your Ford dealership." Stating that these devices are nearly indescribable. Well no they are not. They are relays, not only do they fail. They are designed to do so as to protect the components they are wired to. The circuit board my have a ln extra layer of coating to protect the board. But the relays and resistors connectors are exposed. And that box is only sealed from your grubby fingers peaking inside. It's far from water resistant, you can visibly see gapes were the two shells join together. As well as a non insulated wiring harness plugs into the side. What's that, what components are they linked two? Interior dome light, horn, cigarette lighter, flashers? That wouldn't be so bad. No, these 5 relays control fuel pump, a/c clutch switch, your PCM! As well as your over heating problems. A relay both the low and high speed switch for your radiator fan. One failed relay would have you in circles trying to diagnose your non working A/C to the point of giving into a $500+ dealership repair. Anyone that would like to do this the right way, it's easy. Simply remove the tire and the plastic wheel well cover and it's right there for a new (rebuilt) swap. As Ford shamelessly no longer uses makes these. Many aftermarket companies refurbish and sell for around $100 to $200. Don't buy one for $300. Can also go for the $60 ebay route or grab a junk yard special. Or if you're a under skilled weekend warrior like me. Put that bitch in a vice, drill out the rivets CAREFULLY! I had to refrain from my cave man tactics, don't ruin the board. Locate the bad relay, probably the one discolored from heat. And if you don't know how to solder already, teach yourself like I did and buy an expensive iron. I bought the refurbished because I wanted it now and my circuit board was a little too "burned looking behimy PCM relay." But the Mr Smarty pants I am accepted the sideways confused look from the O'Reilly's kid as I declined to turn in my core for $16 bucks. They can keep that funky 16 dollars and kick rocks. As that CCRM still has over $100 worth of good relays. Oh and ask or search for part terms like body control module or relay module. The term CCRM gets you a dumbed found look as I'm sure Ford put a tight lip warning for mentioning their devious dirt swept beneath the rug.
Can you tell me more about that relay. I have a Contour fan in my 90 LX that I have hooked up to a generic relay with a heavy amp fuse, an manual switch and also a preset temp switch in the fins of the radiator. I bent the spades of the relay so I can connect female spade connectors to it. When it works right, I can manually turn the fan on and it also will turn on automatically with the sensor. Problem is the female spade connectors come loose sometimes and the fan does not turn on. This hurt me one of the last times I bracket raced the car as it started to overheat because the fan did not come on. Missed the call to the line for the next round:( Does the Dakota relay need a high amp fuse in addition to the relay? I really want a relay with an attached harness.
I probably need to put a fuseable link pre relay but I haven’t yet. Go to a channel called vrm he has a video named “working out the bugs on the new build” he has a really nice fan controller hooked up to his contour fans.
These are very good fan controllers, slow spin up, slow spin down, fan lasts a lot longer. Also will run the fan at slow speed momentarily as car cools to cool coolant to take advantage of convection circulation. www.dccontrol.com/constant_temperature_controllers.htm
VRM’s channel was mentioned at the end of the vid. Here’s a link to his channel. Be sure to give him a sub while your at it.
ruclips.net/channel/UC_MrqrP4l78-u6r3X12aJtQ
This is what's in the factory programming for fan control on an SN car. I dropped those about 30 degrees on these for my son's 94GT and other son's 94 Cobra.
Fan - High Speed On Temp #1 224.00 Deg F
Fan - High Speed On Temp #2 228.00 Deg F
Fan - Low Speed Off Temp 212.00 Deg F
Fan - Low Speed On Temp 216.00 Deg F
Thanks for the post. My next project is getting the roller 5 speed 94 GT running for my daughter. I bought a running, rusty 94 auto GT for parts. My daughter does not want to learn to drive stick. I already freshened up an Explorer long block by lapping the valves and replacing the bearings. I have the external EGR Explorer intake and a TFS elbow for it and some BBK SN95 shorties with a 2 cat H pipe and a stock 98 Cobra cat back. My plan is to pull the AODE first from the parts car and assemble it onto the back of the Explorer engine and bolt it in the body. I then plan to pull the vacuum and wiring from the parts car piece by piece to get her EFI setup running. Not really looking forward to this job. I am more of a carb guy. The roller was previously a supercharged 347 with a Systemax, fox throttle body and TFI on the distributor and no smog stuff. I want to get it back to stockish with just the Explorer intake and heads as an upgrade.
Man oh man, you got some work ahead of you. That’s really cool that your daughter wants something with three pedals!!!
Thanks for this video 🙏🏼, it’s my fan it comes on hella late & on slow speed
Happy Independence Day to you, Richard, and to Ray. Yeah, a cowl induction type hood is not going to help with cooling, as it uses the pressure zone at the base of the windshield to push air in for the induction system, rather than out. The old 427 era Ford teardrop scoops were constructed to help cool the engine bay, since they needed something to clear the induction system anyway. If you look at them, you see that the screened openings on the back side of the big bulge are quite a ways from the pressure area at the base of the windshield. I would be beyond agog, though, to find that anyone made that style of scoop for foxbody and beyond Mustangs, and I'm sure the style would make many of the later generation of owners retch. ;) Your beefier rad, Cobra "splitter" and fan re-engineering did what ya need, so you're a winner.
Hey it’s Ray here. I never knew that!!! I’m sure you seen the poor man’s wind tunnel (or maybe you have done it yourself). At any rate, I’m going to put some pieces of string around my cowl hood and windshield. Like Richard, I always thought cowl hoods let hot air escape. I know it’s called “cowl induction” but it went over my head lol. Thanks for the knowledge Z!!!
GLAD I SPENT TIME FIXING MINE THE RIGHT WAY. BUT IF YOUR INTO MICKEY MOUSE THIS IS GOOD.
Mickey Mouse < Ninja Turtles
That's some good advice and there's more than one way to skin a cat. And you fixed it if it's not running hot anymore and nothing wrong with that. I busted out laughing when you said that it made the high speed work because "well I don't know " 😂 now that is keeping it real instead of faking it like most people would do lol I like your channel one of my favorites and that car sounds sweet. I knew that u were in the south somewhere but I didn't know that u were in Alabama. I caught a glimpse of your tag and can recognize it anywhere plus I have the same tag on some of my vehicles or one of the 4 that I own. What part of Alabama are u from I'm in ozark about 20 miles north of dothan which u may know where that's at but I'm working on a 79 pinto and building a 347 for it and I am the one that sent those parts to David that you was asking about a video of porting so p heads I went down and watched them at the track last weekend. They are some cool guys and I meet tussin also and his failTD. He has that thing running strong but it wasn't but a hr and half to 2 he drive to their track. But yeah man keep them coming I like your videos 👍🏼👌🏼🚗💨💨💨💨🦊
Thanks man!!! I’m about an hour north of Birmingham, yeah you’re way down south! Looking forward to you getting that Pinto going, 347s sound so good. David and Co. are a fun crew to hang out with, whole lot of knowledge in that group. good luck with your build.
@@Sikulz thanks man are u up around Jasper I go up there often but yeah I enjoyed hanging out with those guys and they do know their stuff and I don't mind sitting around and absorbing some of it and they are fun to be around but yeah man I can't wait until I get my 347 going it's my first stroker build so I'm kinda excited about it. You got that blue car sounding good. I hope mine sounds as good as it does. It should I got a decent size little cam for it but yeah man you seem like a good cool guy yourself and can't wait to see more
79Beans 347 I dont ever go to Jasper, that’s about an hour and half away. My car has a B303 cam and SpinTech mufflers and no radio lol.
I wired my 95 5.0 5spd gt fans to a switch and did a thermostat delete runs like a champ I daily/drift it never had any issues
haha nice mod i love it, im going to have to do this to mine soon. :-) What's good from Augusta GA.
Thanks, my brother is actually the one that made this vid, I really love the SN’s with the 5.0’ though. Do you have a 94-95?
@@fomobros2207 yeah lots of work done on her just trying to get the moates dialed in. Sn95 comp cam etc
Just replaced my CCRM on my 97 cobra. It's a dirty little move ford got away with until 2004. It's a a metal box, riveted sealed unit. And it's located directly above the passenger front, inside the wheel well cover. What makes it such a scumbag move is that all it is are 5 normal plug-in relays that should have always been in the fuse box so you could change them with ease like the rest. But instead they soldered them all on one circuit board tucked away out of sight. In the worst possible area for electrical components. Also made little to no mentions about repair. Basically just "in the unlikely rare event visit your Ford dealership." Stating that these devices are nearly indescribable. Well no they are not. They are relays, not only do they fail. They are designed to do so as to protect the components they are wired to. The circuit board my have a ln extra layer of coating to protect the board. But the relays and resistors connectors are exposed. And that box is only sealed from your grubby fingers peaking inside. It's far from water resistant, you can visibly see gapes were the two shells join together. As well as a non insulated wiring harness plugs into the side. What's that, what components are they linked two? Interior dome light, horn, cigarette lighter, flashers? That wouldn't be so bad. No, these 5 relays control fuel pump, a/c clutch switch, your PCM! As well as your over heating problems. A relay both the low and high speed switch for your radiator fan. One failed relay would have you in circles trying to diagnose your non working A/C to the point of giving into a $500+ dealership repair. Anyone that would like to do this the right way, it's easy. Simply remove the tire and the plastic wheel well cover and it's right there for a new (rebuilt) swap. As Ford shamelessly no longer uses makes these. Many aftermarket companies refurbish and sell for around $100 to $200. Don't buy one for $300. Can also go for the $60 ebay route or grab a junk yard special. Or if you're a under skilled weekend warrior like me. Put that bitch in a vice, drill out the rivets CAREFULLY! I had to refrain from my cave man tactics, don't ruin the board. Locate the bad relay, probably the one discolored from heat. And if you don't know how to solder already, teach yourself like I did and buy an expensive iron. I bought the refurbished because I wanted it now and my circuit board was a little too "burned looking behimy PCM relay." But the Mr Smarty pants I am accepted the sideways confused look from the O'Reilly's kid as I declined to turn in my core for $16 bucks. They can keep that funky 16 dollars and kick rocks. As that CCRM still has over $100 worth of good relays. Oh and ask or search for part terms like body control module or relay module. The term CCRM gets you a dumbed found look as I'm sure Ford put a tight lip warning for mentioning their devious dirt swept beneath the rug.
Your car sounds amazing, sounds like mine but mine don’t have the tips at the end. By the sounds of it I need those tips
More info on BRM channel where is it?
Here you go bud,
ruclips.net/channel/UC_MrqrP4l78-u6r3X12aJtQ
It’s actually VRM lol, give him a sub while your at it. He’s one of the good ones👍👍
Great info , Happy 4th of July from Canada .What is VRM's channel called .Thanks for sharing
The channel is vrm all lower case, the video is titled “Working out the bugs on the new build”
I like using a adjustable fan controller
Its 4th of july weekend right now thats crazy
Great salesman !
Could you please maybe show the wiring setup, I have the same issue on my mustang I’m desperate at this point..
Awesome tips!
Can you tell me more about that relay. I have a Contour fan in my 90 LX that I have hooked up to a generic relay with a heavy amp fuse, an manual switch and also a preset temp switch in the fins of the radiator. I bent the spades of the relay so I can connect female spade connectors to it. When it works right, I can manually turn the fan on and it also will turn on automatically with the sensor. Problem is the female spade connectors come loose sometimes and the fan does not turn on. This hurt me one of the last times I bracket raced the car as it started to overheat because the fan did not come on. Missed the call to the line for the next round:( Does the Dakota relay need a high amp fuse in addition to the relay? I really want a relay with an attached harness.
I probably need to put a fuseable link pre relay but I haven’t yet. Go to a channel called vrm he has a video named “working out the bugs on the new build” he has a really nice fan controller hooked up to his contour fans.
These are very good fan controllers, slow spin up, slow spin down, fan lasts a lot longer. Also will run the fan at slow speed momentarily as car cools to cool coolant to take advantage of convection circulation. www.dccontrol.com/constant_temperature_controllers.htm
FXRSDriver thanks for sharing that link!!!
can you show how you wired up the relay?
Are you using a Dakota Digital relay or a regular parts store relay?
@@Sikulz I was gonna buy the one you referenced
Water pump?
Fan relay switch
Hi, was is your exaust system ?