Those arrows may weight different, different spine results at the shot. When changing any arrow/ heads things usually change. Arrows can easily hit group well a few inches away from your old target arrows. Having a well tuned bow and practicing with your best form will minimize any changes you may have to make in sight adjustments. If the hunting practice head is hitting in the same spot and flying well don’t move the rest as the bow is delivering the in a repeatable manner. Move your sight in micro sized movements- like a 1/64” at a time. Follow the arrow-hitting left move sight left, low hits move sight down etc. Like I said, the group hit location can easily change at 30 yards.
Mechanical broad heads most definitely affect the arrow flight different than field points especially ones with exposed blades even if they are folded they still act as wings causing lift up down left and right depending on the orientation.
Yeah but not as much as fixed. Broadheadtuning you shoot the broadhead first, then field point after. If it’s way off, move your rest from the direction of your field point towards your broadhead. It’s not that tough but it can be a pain in the ass
Sighting in is pretty easy. But you have to make sure your broadheads are hitting with field points. Shoot broadhead tipped arrow first then regular field point after. Rest movements are very slight when tuning. Walk back tuning is a good method too. But there’s so many ways guys tune a bow these days. But I promise you that shooting through paper isn’t tuning your bow. I tune mine then broadhead tune with a solid fixed head first. Fixed heads will really let you know how well tuned your bow is! Also, form is a huge part too, bow grip, making sure you pull through the shot and all that! Lighted nocks are awesome too, but make sure your tuning with them too if you plan on hunting with those! And you’ll see when you hunt… it’s a million times different than shooting at a target block/bag. Always make sure you have a good clear shot before shooting at an animal. It’s easy to punch the trigger while hunting, and that’s why I stress to get your heart rate up while shooting/practicing. And never tune with your sight for broadhead turning!!! When your sighting in, follow the arrow! Lots of great information out there, but a lot of bad too! The more reps the better!! Anyways, love seeing your progress my brother! Keep at it. 💪🏻
Tuning is part of the fun... It's called "learning". I really suggest getting some quality fixed heads... They never fail to open. And, when you send one through a deer, the deer tend to not run off like when hit with a mech head. Often they will take a jump or two, maybe run a bit and then stop and look at around like "What the hell just happened?".. Then they flop over dead.
@@whatisarchery I won't kid you, the "learning" can be frustrating at times, but once you get it... I had to shim the cams on one of my bows. I never did it and the internut is full of people saying "DON'T DO IT!! IT'S TOO HARD!!!". I took my time and went from being frustrated to perfect paper tunes with a standard rest placement and nock height. Now, I KNOW I can do it!
Just came across your channel the other day and as I was watching this video here,I'm at the same stage of the game as far as tuning broad heads. Been shooting for Awhile about 40+ years on and off and actually just picked it back up after some time off. NEVER PUNCH your trigger just like a gun hunter never Jerks the trigger No Exceptions to the rule,you Punch,it sucks no two ways about it. Yep your gonna hit the target but Imagine that dot your shooting for is the heart,you punch And Pull your shot you just Punched the gut. Archery is all aboout Repeatability with everything from your bow grip to your anchor spot to your breathing and trigger release weather you shoot a thumb release or a wrist strap style. Keep up the good work my man your gonna get there it is a journey like no other thats for sure. I got sucked into the Arrow Building Vortex now...Keep plugging away
Get you a v bar stabilizer mount and longer stabilizers. One facing forward and one facing back really will help keep it more stable for precise shots and always make sure if you have a bubble level in your sight that it’s centered before making the shot
Look truthfully be told 95% of hunters punch their triggers when shooting at an animal. It’s one thing to shoot at targets it’s another to shoot animals, I recommend to help you out, is to start out shooting small game. Squirrels and rabbits, it gets your adrenaline going and teaches you how you need to execute and perform under real life scenarios. Get arrows and small game heads that weigh as close to your broad heads as possible so weight is not a factor. You get multiple opportunities each time you go out or at least I do. Also get you a stand or whatever type of hunting system your going to use and start setting it up and practice out of it all summer so your comfortable with it when season comes around. I don’t use anything I hunt from the ground and it’s difficult but man you get cool experiences and it’s the lightest cheapest way to hunt. Just some of my personal experience
I can definitely say that all of this is good info. Most first year mistakes are caused by new shooters not doing this early on in the year. Get it down before season starts and you’ll be golden.
switch the unit to grains...it will be much more accurate Also practice taking shots after doing pushups and jumping jacks...this will somewhat mimic how you will feel when the first deer walks in front of you.
One thing to consider is the total weight of the practice arrows vs the hunting arrows. Lighted nocks typically weigh a little more. Where did the new mechanical rest go? Back to the whisker biscuit, or did you record this prior to the dry fire?
@whatisarchery it looked like you were measuring in lb arrows and braodheads are measured in grains it's smaller those braodheads are probably 100 or 125 grains
Do what you can to make the straightest shot, also be careful when shooting bladed tips, bladed points can slide right through a stationary target that wasn't meant for it. I personally prefer fixed blades as they are ideal for tuning but landing a mechanical broadhead usually ensures a kill. Also know that living targets actually move which some beginners actually tend to forget (like Myself). Also during the Season it also depends on how you hunt your primary game. I either hunt on the ground or use a Hunting blind tent cause i'm on the heavy side and stands are out of the question for me. I wish you the best and hopefully you'll get your first animal (a deer most likely). I kind of wanna see you butcher it but that's down the line for the future. Keep shooting though!
Broadhead “tuning” is generally meant for fixed blade broadheads, not the mechanical heads you are using. Typically if your bow is paper tuned and you are grouping field points well, the mechanical is going to fly with your practice heads. Those are very good broadheads and should serve you well. Verify both heads are hitting similarly and you should be fine with those broadheads. Did you check your sight after replacing the string you blew up?
I can't see your complete form, but don't "hold" the bow, let it sit between your index finger and thumb then let it fall into your hand after the shot. It will stop the left and right movement quite a bit...if you don't feel comfortable doing that, just place fingertips on the riser but don't hold after the draw...just let it rest. Next, completely follow through, you partially do on your shot...let your right hand come back naturally after following through.
Honestly just shoot field points. You adjust your rest to broadhead tune. I would not worry about broadheads til you get to hunting season or less then a month before.
Just try some slick trick magnums or viper tricks. They are fixed but they usually fly great. I have killed deer with both. Mechs have to many issues and most times you won't pass through unless you shoot a ways behind the shoulder.
Your mechanical heads will work just fine. Sharp blades and shot placement kill game. I have used both fixed and mechanical for 30 plus years and have taken animals with both. They both work fine when they hit the right spot. I don’t usually recommend mechanical heads for people shooting under 60 pounds. But 60 pounds and up a mechanical head is a great option. You will blow through every animal you hit. You are shooting good. You will be deadly In the woods with your set up.
The best advice anyone can give a bowhunter new or old. Is keep your shots close. Personally I don’t shoot at game past 25 yards. I have killed many deer farther, but over the years I have noticed that the only thing we can control is when and where we take a shot. Inside 25 yards there is less of a chance for things to go haywire. Bow hunting is about how close not how far.
Something is squeeking when you draw - just something to think about now so you dont spook a deer during the season! I enjoy your videos - you are so enthusiastic! Check the weight of your old arrows verses the new ones - different weights may fly the same up close, but will start to differ the further out you shoot. Something else to think about - the lighted knocks generally weigh more than regular knocks. Just trying to help you be successful!! Keep slinging those arrows!!
Looks like a great selection you’ve made there. This may be the chance for you to learning tuning your bow to those new arrows. I know you have watched plenty of videos on this part of the game. 👍👍👀
its just that easy, you put the field tip in and shoot it, once you're sighted in, you're dialed. thats why i LOVE the G5 so much, because they give you that ballistic match tip.
WHAT? May be only if you happen to have a well tuned bow AND arrow combination already. And if your setup is right you can nearly always screw on a fixed head and great results too. Doesn’t require a mechanical head.
I recommend longer stabilizer with a bit more weight out front. Seems you’re not settling down your bow . From video point of view you are wobbling all over . Not being rude just trying to help.
Those arrows may weight different, different spine results at the shot. When changing any arrow/ heads things usually change. Arrows can easily hit group well a few inches away from your old target arrows. Having a well tuned bow and practicing with your best form will minimize any changes you may have to make in sight adjustments. If the hunting practice head is hitting in the same spot and flying well don’t move the rest as the bow is delivering the in a repeatable manner. Move your sight in micro sized movements- like a 1/64” at a time. Follow the arrow-hitting left move sight left, low hits move sight down etc. Like I said, the group hit location can easily change at 30 yards.
I’ll def pay attention to that…thank you
Mechanical broad heads most definitely affect the arrow flight different than field points especially ones with exposed blades even if they are folded they still act as wings causing lift up down left and right depending on the orientation.
Ok cool thank man
Yeah but not as much as fixed. Broadheadtuning you shoot the broadhead first, then field point after. If it’s way off, move your rest from the direction of your field point towards your broadhead. It’s not that tough but it can be a pain in the ass
Sighting in is pretty easy. But you have to make sure your broadheads are hitting with field points. Shoot broadhead tipped arrow first then regular field point after. Rest movements are very slight when tuning. Walk back tuning is a good method too. But there’s so many ways guys tune a bow these days. But I promise you that shooting through paper isn’t tuning your bow.
I tune mine then broadhead tune with a solid fixed head first. Fixed heads will really let you know how well tuned your bow is! Also, form is a huge part too, bow grip, making sure you pull through the shot and all that! Lighted nocks are awesome too, but make sure your tuning with them too if you plan on hunting with those!
And you’ll see when you hunt… it’s a million times different than shooting at a target block/bag. Always make sure you have a good clear shot before shooting at an animal. It’s easy to punch the trigger while hunting, and that’s why I stress to get your heart rate up while shooting/practicing. And never tune with your sight for broadhead turning!!! When your sighting in, follow the arrow! Lots of great information out there, but a lot of bad too! The more reps the better!!
Anyways, love seeing your progress my brother! Keep at it. 💪🏻
Thank you man…that’s a lot of good information I really appreciate it
I'll take it
@@whatisarchery Always my man! One step at a time! 🏹🔥
@@blackopsbandogtv2148 👊🏻
Tuning is part of the fun... It's called "learning". I really suggest getting some quality fixed heads... They never fail to open. And, when you send one through a deer, the deer tend to not run off like when hit with a mech head. Often they will take a jump or two, maybe run a bit and then stop and look at around like "What the hell just happened?".. Then they flop over dead.
Most def bro I’ll look into that
@@whatisarchery I won't kid you, the "learning" can be frustrating at times, but once you get it... I had to shim the cams on one of my bows. I never did it and the internut is full of people saying "DON'T DO IT!! IT'S TOO HARD!!!". I took my time and went from being frustrated to perfect paper tunes with a standard rest placement and nock height. Now, I KNOW I can do it!
Just came across your channel the other day and as I was watching this video here,I'm at the same stage of the game as far as tuning broad heads. Been shooting for Awhile about 40+ years on and off and actually just picked it back up after some time off. NEVER PUNCH your trigger just like a gun hunter never Jerks the trigger No Exceptions to the rule,you Punch,it sucks no two ways about it. Yep your gonna hit the target but Imagine that dot your shooting for is the heart,you punch And Pull your shot you just Punched the gut. Archery is all aboout Repeatability with everything from your bow grip to your anchor spot to your breathing and trigger release weather you shoot a thumb release or a wrist strap style. Keep up the good work my man your gonna get there it is a journey like no other thats for sure. I got sucked into the Arrow Building Vortex now...Keep plugging away
Thank you I appreciate it…I’ll def be working on my release
Get you a v bar stabilizer mount and longer stabilizers. One facing forward and one facing back really will help keep it more stable for precise shots and always make sure if you have a bubble level in your sight that it’s centered before making the shot
@@loganhenry3322 yea I have a stabilizer now since this video
Great video keep up the good work
Thank you bro
Look truthfully be told 95% of hunters punch their triggers when shooting at an animal. It’s one thing to shoot at targets it’s another to shoot animals, I recommend to help you out, is to start out shooting small game. Squirrels and rabbits, it gets your adrenaline going and teaches you how you need to execute and perform under real life scenarios. Get arrows and small game heads that weigh as close to your broad heads as possible so weight is not a factor. You get multiple opportunities each time you go out or at least I do. Also get you a stand or whatever type of hunting system your going to use and start setting it up and practice out of it all summer so your comfortable with it when season comes around. I don’t use anything I hunt from the ground and it’s difficult but man you get cool experiences and it’s the lightest cheapest way to hunt. Just some of my personal experience
Thanks bro I really appreciate your insight…I’ll def do that
I can take this information and make it work for me
@@blackopsbandogtv2148 most def bro
I can definitely say that all of this is good info. Most first year mistakes are caused by new shooters not doing this early on in the year. Get it down before season starts and you’ll be golden.
switch the unit to grains...it will be much more accurate
Also practice taking shots after doing pushups and jumping jacks...this will somewhat mimic how you will feel when the first deer walks in front of you.
Ok cool…you should go check my other video where I literally sprinted in between every shot lol that was fun
I use deadmeat and i love them! Nice arrow!!!
One thing to consider is the total weight of the practice arrows vs the hunting arrows. Lighted nocks typically weigh a little more. Where did the new mechanical rest go? Back to the whisker biscuit, or did you record this prior to the dry fire?
I’ll look into that…yea I recorded this video before the dry fire
I put a few pieces of duct tape on the target and aim at a different one with every arrow to avoid damaging arrows
Yea that’s true def don’t want to hit any arrows
Best way to Broadhead tune is to paper tune
Ok cool thanks
Should messure those in grains it would be more accurate
Can you explain the difference because I really don’t understand
@whatisarchery it looked like you were measuring in lb arrows and braodheads are measured in grains it's smaller those braodheads are probably 100 or 125 grains
@@Cparchery... ok cool I’ll check that out
With that being a mechanical head it should hit pretty much exactly where your field point hit. Fixed heads are where the crazy flight can come from
Oh ok cool I didn’t know there was a difference…thank you
Do what you can to make the straightest shot, also be careful when shooting bladed tips, bladed points can slide right through a stationary target that wasn't meant for it. I personally prefer fixed blades as they are ideal for tuning but landing a mechanical broadhead usually ensures a kill. Also know that living targets actually move which some beginners actually tend to forget (like Myself). Also during the Season it also depends on how you hunt your primary game. I either hunt on the ground or use a Hunting blind tent cause i'm on the heavy side and stands are out of the question for me. I wish you the best and hopefully you'll get your first animal (a deer most likely). I kind of wanna see you butcher it but that's down the line for the future. Keep shooting though!
Thank you man that’s a lot of good info I appreciate that
Broadhead “tuning” is generally meant for fixed blade broadheads, not the mechanical heads you are using. Typically if your bow is paper tuned and you are grouping field points well, the mechanical is going to fly with your practice heads. Those are very good broadheads and should serve you well. Verify both heads are hitting similarly and you should be fine with those broadheads. Did you check your sight after replacing the string you blew up?
Ok cool thanks bro….this video was recorded my bow blew up but i am resighting my bow
I can't see your complete form, but don't "hold" the bow, let it sit between your index finger and thumb then let it fall into your hand after the shot. It will stop the left and right movement quite a bit...if you don't feel comfortable doing that, just place fingertips on the riser but don't hold after the draw...just let it rest. Next, completely follow through, you partially do on your shot...let your right hand come back naturally after following through.
Thanks for that feedback I’m going to give that a try…it’s a lot to work on but I’m starting to get the hang of it
Is this an older vid you just uploaded? I thought you upgraded tge rest and peep?...or is that a second bow? Enjoying watching your archery journey
Yea this was recorded before I blew up my bow
Honestly just shoot field points. You adjust your rest to broadhead tune. I would not worry about broadheads til you get to hunting season or less then a month before.
I’ve been seeing that…thanks
Just try some slick trick magnums or viper tricks. They are fixed but they usually fly great. I have killed deer with both. Mechs have to many issues and most times you won't pass through unless you shoot a ways behind the shoulder.
Ok cool I’ll check those out
Your mechanical heads will work just fine. Sharp blades and shot placement kill game. I have used both fixed and mechanical for 30 plus years and have taken animals with both. They both work fine when they hit the right spot. I don’t usually recommend mechanical heads for people shooting under 60 pounds. But 60 pounds and up a mechanical head is a great option. You will blow through every animal you hit. You are shooting good. You will be deadly In the woods with your set up.
The best advice anyone can give a bowhunter new or old. Is keep your shots close. Personally I don’t shoot at game past 25 yards. I have killed many deer farther, but over the years I have noticed that the only thing we can control is when and where we take a shot. Inside 25 yards there is less of a chance for things to go haywire. Bow hunting is about how close not how far.
@@jasonbarnes3188 thank you man I really appreciate that…just trying to be as prepared as I can
@@jasonbarnes3188 yea I’m only comfortable to shoot a 30 right now and I don’t even want to shoot that far to be honest
Nice arrows bro 💯
Thank you man
I love the content. I'm also new to archery and hunting and just trying to learn along the way.
Thank you man…just enjoy it because it can seem like a lot but have fun
Something is squeeking when you draw - just something to think about now so you dont spook a deer during the season! I enjoy your videos - you are so enthusiastic! Check the weight of your old arrows verses the new ones - different weights may fly the same up close, but will start to differ the further out you shoot. Something else to think about - the lighted knocks generally weigh more than regular knocks. Just trying to help you be successful!! Keep slinging those arrows!!
Thanks a lot man…I really appreciate the info it does help
How you going my man I’m enjoying your energy ❤keep up your amazing work one love 👍❤
Thank you I really appreciate that
I think you need a tuning fork to broadhead tune.
Oh ok cool
@whatisarchery lol I was joking.
@@Tullminator I don’t know much about archery so I had no idea lol
It's all good, sorry. You use a tuning fork to tune a piano. 🤣
@@Tullminator oh wow 😂
Looks like a great selection you’ve made there. This may be the chance for you to learning tuning your bow to those new arrows. I know you have watched plenty of videos on this part of the game. 👍👍👀
Yea man…I’m really starting to learn a lot
🏹 🔥
:)
💪🏾💪🏾
you dont have to broadhead tune with mechanicals.
its just that easy, you put the field tip in and shoot it, once you're sighted in, you're dialed. thats why i LOVE the G5 so much, because they give you that ballistic match tip.
@@Phyta bro I never shooting anything else…this makes too much sense to me 😂
WHAT? May be only if you happen to have a well tuned bow AND arrow combination already. And if your setup is right you can nearly always screw on a fixed head and great results too. Doesn’t require a mechanical head.
The G5 are bad ass man easy to tune killer broad heads killed three deers with them and it did it job each time
Oh wow that’s really good to know…thanks man
My guy where are you from
@@blackout662nechitty4 I’m from New York living in North Carolina
@@whatisarchery good luck on the hunt I just got into the bow side of hunting myself I grew up rifle hunting
@@blackout662nechitty4 thanks man it’s been fun for sure…make it happen out there
I recommend longer stabilizer with a bit more weight out front. Seems you’re not settling down your bow . From video point of view you are wobbling all over . Not being rude just trying to help.
Thanks man…yea I’m noticing that too I think I’m focusing on the bubble too much
Mechanicals tune easy!
Yea this was cool