I like it. It works well a little goes a long way and you can use it wet or dry. Cleans off easily and won't foul powder. Sounds like a commercial. LOL
About 1978 or so, I started reloading purely for getting the most consistent shotshells. It wasn't until 82 or so that I delved into metallic handloading and man I was instantly hooked (and still am)! So thank you for producing and sharing some really great info and demonstrations. They are about as good as it gets. But quit using so much lube...just kidding🤣
Thank you for your kind comments. I am not brief in my explanations or great with the camera work or editing and I know all of those things are difficult to watch sometimes. My videos are not to everyone's taste. I appreciate those who are patient and get what they can from my videos without being too critical. I am just trying to share information.
@@johnshandloading7907 Not true, the videos are great and you did just fine. They are entertaining and informative. I watch a lot of YT gun channels and yours is just as good as the other good videos.
I took the Lee Lube and mixed two teaspoons in a 6 oz spray bottle with 91 percent alcohol. After mixing it up thoroughly and shaking it up, I made it into a spray. Works very well. Also, did the same to the RCBS-2 lube into spray. Both worked but the Lee I can use inside the case necks. I'm pretty stocked on Lee Lube for awhile now.
Its what I use. Always been good stuff for me. I use a Q-tip for it all. Just a dab on the Q-tip. Rub on the body and inside the neck of the case. This lube will not degrade powder. Wet or dry. I wipe case body and neck off after full length resizing.
@@johnshandloading7907 Take a bow. You did more than help, you provided the solution. Loaded 50 rounds of 25-06 Rem using Barnes brass that I saved, H4831sc 49-53.5 gr in .5 increments pushing a 100 grain Barnes TSX bullet. COAL:3.030. .050 off the lands. Let’s see what it does on paper @100 yards +.
I’ve used a few different sizing lubricants, and the Lee product is the only one that works for my 6.5 Carcano cases. Something about the shape of the case that requires something like Lee lubricant on the inside of the neck (I’ve had 3 stuck cases now experimenting with other products, but never with Lee).
I like it because it is not sticky or slimy. It cleans off easily too. It can build up in your dies over time but cleans out easily. Does not foul gun powder inside the case. Good stuff. Thanks for watching and commenting.
My third piece of brass must not have had enough Lee lube on it and it got very stuck. I had to buy another die. So, I bought the Hornady spray while I was shopping.
Yes - I got used to doing that when neck sizing and still do it sometimes full length sizing. I have no real 'proof' that is makes anything more accurate but it sometimes helps to have some 'black magic voodoo' reloading. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Could you put this on some paper towel and roll the cases or push the cases into it? This seems kinda slow and finicky to me. All I need is to lube the necks of the cases I'm doing.
You could do something like that. I like trying to get inside the neck and find the Q tip works well for that. Maybe put a dab on a cloth and rub each neck with it. I am 'overly cautious' with most things, but it keeps me from making more mistakes. Good luck. Thank you for watching and commenting.
I don't usually set it for a specific headspace because I don't have the gauges and tools for measuring the the rifle and brass. Having said that, you can measure the brass and start with the re sizing die farther away. Slowly moving it down in little increments and re measuring the same piece of brass until it is where you want. To do it correctly and accurately you would need a bushing or comparator of some type on your calipers to get consistent measurements.
I don't tumble the brass afterward, I just wipe it off with a rag or towel. Some people do tumble it afterward or clean it with water. I just wipe it off and that has worked well for me. I also clean them by hand in a water, soap, lemon juice mix prior to resizing, as seen here: ruclips.net/video/_uh4PkgXSzo/видео.html Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@Icelvlan1 the only case lube inside is a tiny bit in the case neck and it helps with the bullet seating. The inside of the case was cleaned prior to the resizing so it is not nasty inside. The lube is put on the outside of the case to keep it from getting stuck in the resizing die. The Lee lube is waxy and dry and wont interfere with the powder or primer if there is some inside the case. I really like it.
@@johnshandloading7907 I tumble my brass to shine them before anything in the case prep steps. I don't clean or wet my cases. No need to. I only need to shine them so I can find them again after firing. I do use a RCBS case brush to brush any crud that may be there out of the inside. If there is no crud then I usually don't even brush them out.
Why lube down the entire case body all the way to the base when you're only resizing the upper portion? I'm new so looking for an explanation to help me learn. It seems pointless when you can clearly see from the shine where it was resized. An aerosol then sure, be more indiscriminate, but why would you apply lube by hand to an area that doesn't apparently need it (judging at 07:39 when you can clearly see the untouched lube on case body)?
This is a very good question. The very bottom part does not have lube on it and is not re-sized, the shiniest part of the case that you see does not go into the re-sizing die. if you look again at 7:39 you will see cloudy, foggy smeared lube all the way down until the clean shiny part. The lube you see there is not actually 'untouched' it has lines in it from touching the inside of the sizing die. The die does resize the majority of the case, tapering so it is slightly tighter at the top/neck/shoulder area but it does resize down close to the base. It is better to be sure and have lube there and not get a stuck case in the die. Even with all the lube they can still get sticky or hard to move in and out of the die. Clean dies help as well. Opinions will vary and some like more or less lube, or spray lube instead of waxy lube. There are many ways to lube cases and this is just one way and the way I normally do rifle cartridge cases. Thank you for watching and asking the question.
@@johnshandloading7907 Ahh - I didn't notice the faint lines down the case. And very much on board with better to be safe than sorry. Thank you for taking the time to answer and spreading the benefits of your knowledge. Regards.
I have not resized belted cases. I think you will re sized up close to the belt but would do it carefully. Hopefully the dies have instructions that are detailed enough to make it clear.
Thank you for the video but you spent your whole video on lube and spent 5 seconds on inserting die which was preset so you never showed us how to set up the die but thank you for your effort
I appreciate the comment, I am always trying to improve and listen to constructive criticism. The die was not actually pre set - I set it and read/follow what the instructions say for set up at 6:08 - 6:48. You are right though, I did not go over any elaborate die set up or ways you may want to measure or change setting it ad did not spend much time discussing die set up or how it works. I just set it the most basic simple way following the instructions. I should probably make a different video talking about different ways of sizing and setting up the dies. Have a great day.
I am getting consistently stuck cases. Two I removed successfully but another stuck. I use the Lyman 2 die set with the pad and Lyman case lube. I have a replacement die from Lyman...thanks to Lyman but just had the Same results on 6.5 creed. What to do?
I would try a different case lube. Either the Lee like in my video or one of the waxy types like imperial sizing wax or Hornady unique case lube. You could also try a spray type, but the spray types seem to use a lot and stay slimy to me. I like the wax types because they don't tend to interfere with powder if they get inside the case. Stuck cases are no fun. Also make sure the die is cleaned periodically and that bottle neck cases get some lube inside the neck. Thanks for watching and good luck.
Great video, very useful.
I have been using the LEE resizing lube for years. I personally think that its the best thing going
I like it. It works well a little goes a long way and you can use it wet or dry. Cleans off easily and won't foul powder. Sounds like a commercial. LOL
About 1978 or so, I started reloading purely for getting the most consistent shotshells. It wasn't until 82 or so that I delved into metallic handloading and man I was instantly hooked (and still am)! So thank you for producing and sharing some really great info and demonstrations. They are about as good as it gets. But quit using so much lube...just kidding🤣
Thank you for your kind comments. I am not brief in my explanations or great with the camera work or editing and I know all of those things are difficult to watch sometimes. My videos are not to everyone's taste. I appreciate those who are patient and get what they can from my videos without being too critical. I am just trying to share information.
@@johnshandloading7907 Not true, the videos are great and you did just fine. They are entertaining and informative. I watch a lot of YT gun channels and yours is just as good as the other good videos.
@@Jeff_Seely Thank you.
Great thank you. I've been reloading.44 magnum with carbide dies, so the whole lubricant thing is new to me.
I took the Lee Lube and mixed two teaspoons in a 6 oz spray bottle with 91 percent alcohol. After mixing it up thoroughly and shaking it up, I made it into a spray. Works very well. Also, did the same to the RCBS-2 lube into spray. Both worked but the Lee I can use inside the case necks. I'm pretty stocked on Lee Lube for awhile now.
Its what I use. Always been good stuff for me. I use a Q-tip for it all. Just a dab on the Q-tip. Rub on the body and inside the neck of the case. This lube will not degrade powder. Wet or dry. I wipe case body and neck off after full length resizing.
Best explanation and demonstration yet. Thanks.
Thank you Marco, I appreciate you saying that. I am glad it helped.
@@johnshandloading7907 Take a bow. You did more than help, you provided the solution. Loaded 50 rounds of 25-06 Rem using Barnes brass that I saved, H4831sc 49-53.5 gr in .5 increments pushing a 100 grain Barnes TSX bullet. COAL:3.030. .050 off the lands. Let’s see what it does on paper @100 yards +.
@@marcoaguiar1131 very cool. That makes me happy. It is fun to tinker and test. Good luck.
Agreed I always wash my brass as well before i do anything
I’ve used a few different sizing lubricants, and the Lee product is the only one that works for my 6.5 Carcano cases. Something about the shape of the case that requires something like Lee lubricant on the inside of the neck (I’ve had 3 stuck cases now experimenting with other products, but never with Lee).
I like it because it is not sticky or slimy. It cleans off easily too. It can build up in your dies over time but cleans out easily. Does not foul gun powder inside the case. Good stuff. Thanks for watching and commenting.
New subscriber. Thanks for a great video. I’m just getting into reloading.
Thank you Dave for the nice comment and for subscribing. Also check out the reloaders network. Hopefully some of my videos help you.
@@johnshandloading7907 I appreciate you. I just bought a Lee Classic loader for .45ACP and another one for .223. They will be here in about a week.
Lee has been using that same lube and packaging since the 70's, it must be good.
Great video 👍🇺🇸
Thanks Jesse.
Good video, thanks.
I am happy you liked it. Have a great day!
Nice, John. I’ve been doing it wrong! I guess reading is fundamental, huh? Wife tells me that all the time.😂🤠
Glad I could help, LOL. Thank you for watching, I hope you are doing well sir.
My third piece of brass must not have had enough Lee lube on it and it got very stuck. I had to buy another die.
So, I bought the Hornady spray while I was shopping.
That stinks. Hopefully you can remove the brass even though you bought a new die. Sometimes things go sideways even with our best efforts. Good luck.
Lee says to turn the die in quarter to a third after contact.. it looks like you turned the lock ring instead.
Good stuff
Thanks James.
The 1/3 rotation and 2nd stroke into the die is completely unnecessary, but whatever Mojoe brings you tight groups, do it.
Yes - I got used to doing that when neck sizing and still do it sometimes full length sizing. I have no real 'proof' that is makes anything more accurate but it sometimes helps to have some 'black magic voodoo' reloading. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Check the run-out. For 308 I have lee, rcbs and redding. Without neck turning lee is the beat with .0005 run-out. Reading has .003
Yes they work great. I was shocked at how consistent my hand loads were when I started out.
@@johnshandloading7907 for straight wall cases they work great. Been using them for 30 plus years
Could you put this on some paper towel and roll the cases or push the cases into it? This seems kinda slow and finicky to me. All I need is to lube the necks of the cases I'm doing.
You could do something like that. I like trying to get inside the neck and find the Q tip works well for that. Maybe put a dab on a cloth and rub each neck with it. I am 'overly cautious' with most things, but it keeps me from making more mistakes. Good luck. Thank you for watching and commenting.
How do you set the die to get a specific headspace?
I don't usually set it for a specific headspace because I don't have the gauges and tools for measuring the the rifle and brass. Having said that, you can measure the brass and start with the re sizing die farther away. Slowly moving it down in little increments and re measuring the same piece of brass until it is where you want. To do it correctly and accurately you would need a bushing or comparator of some type on your calipers to get consistent measurements.
Should they be put back in the tumbler before loading?
I don't tumble the brass afterward, I just wipe it off with a rag or towel. Some people do tumble it afterward or clean it with water. I just wipe it off and that has worked well for me. I also clean them by hand in a water, soap, lemon juice mix prior to resizing, as seen here: ruclips.net/video/_uh4PkgXSzo/видео.html
Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@johnshandloading7907 what about the inside?
@@Icelvlan1 the only case lube inside is a tiny bit in the case neck and it helps with the bullet seating. The inside of the case was cleaned prior to the resizing so it is not nasty inside. The lube is put on the outside of the case to keep it from getting stuck in the resizing die. The Lee lube is waxy and dry and wont interfere with the powder or primer if there is some inside the case. I really like it.
@@johnshandloading7907 I tumble my brass to shine them before anything in the case prep steps. I don't clean or wet my cases. No need to. I only need to shine them so I can find them again after firing. I do use a RCBS case brush to brush any crud that may be there out of the inside. If there is no crud then I usually don't even brush them out.
Why lube down the entire case body all the way to the base when you're only resizing the upper portion? I'm new so looking for an explanation to help me learn. It seems pointless when you can clearly see from the shine where it was resized. An aerosol then sure, be more indiscriminate, but why would you apply lube by hand to an area that doesn't apparently need it (judging at 07:39 when you can clearly see the untouched lube on case body)?
This is a very good question. The very bottom part does not have lube on it and is not re-sized, the shiniest part of the case that you see does not go into the re-sizing die. if you look again at 7:39 you will see cloudy, foggy smeared lube all the way down until the clean shiny part. The lube you see there is not actually 'untouched' it has lines in it from touching the inside of the sizing die. The die does resize the majority of the case, tapering so it is slightly tighter at the top/neck/shoulder area but it does resize down close to the base. It is better to be sure and have lube there and not get a stuck case in the die. Even with all the lube they can still get sticky or hard to move in and out of the die. Clean dies help as well. Opinions will vary and some like more or less lube, or spray lube instead of waxy lube. There are many ways to lube cases and this is just one way and the way I normally do rifle cartridge cases. Thank you for watching and asking the question.
@@johnshandloading7907 Ahh - I didn't notice the faint lines down the case. And very much on board with better to be safe than sorry. Thank you for taking the time to answer and spreading the benefits of your knowledge. Regards.
My question is if your brass has a belt in them when setting up the sizer die do you give space for the belt
I have not resized belted cases. I think you will re sized up close to the belt but would do it carefully. Hopefully the dies have instructions that are detailed enough to make it clear.
Thank you for the video but you spent your whole video on lube and spent 5 seconds on inserting die which was preset so you never showed us how to set up the die but thank you for your effort
I appreciate the comment, I am always trying to improve and listen to constructive criticism. The die was not actually pre set - I set it and read/follow what the instructions say for set up at 6:08 - 6:48. You are right though, I did not go over any elaborate die set up or ways you may want to measure or change setting it ad did not spend much time discussing die set up or how it works. I just set it the most basic simple way following the instructions. I should probably make a different video talking about different ways of sizing and setting up the dies. Have a great day.
I am getting consistently stuck cases. Two I removed successfully but another stuck. I use the Lyman 2 die set with the pad and Lyman case lube.
I have a replacement die from Lyman...thanks to Lyman but just had the Same results on 6.5 creed. What to do?
I would try a different case lube. Either the Lee like in my video or one of the waxy types like imperial sizing wax or Hornady unique case lube. You could also try a spray type, but the spray types seem to use a lot and stay slimy to me. I like the wax types because they don't tend to interfere with powder if they get inside the case. Stuck cases are no fun. Also make sure the die is cleaned periodically and that bottle neck cases get some lube inside the neck. Thanks for watching and good luck.
@@johnshandloading7907 Much appreciate your knowledge. Will do as you suggest
do i trim the brass after or before resizing ?
Trim AFTER resizing. That is the correct way. The brass dimension changes when you resize. Thank you for asking. Good luck!
Boo coax n forester babyboot
Boo trim those