Worked with a plumber in recent times. He carried around his lampwick and soap marker as we were cutting and threading black pipe for a boiler. We installed the fittings with lampwick starting below the 2nd thread and doped it and the seal is incredible. It looks old school but works great! Im hoping to get into an apprenticeship here in NYC. Subscribed!
I Had used a sawsall carelessly and had the same cut in my cast iron radiator....although cut not quite as bad. This method did the trick! No leaks! Thanks for the tip.
Good video and good advice. I do a lot of steam and boiler work, piping and repairs. I have used the hacksaw technique many times and on rare occasions I have sawed and gotten into the threads. The way I have repaired this scenario is to mix up a small amount of high temp. quick setting epoxy and carefully fill the gap, let it harden and then use my appropriate pipe tap. Works like a champ, makes a permanent repair and I've never had a leak on high or low psi steam. Of course you have to own a set of taps and that may be a downfall for a do it yourselfer.
Thanks for the video, Bob - it really helped. Rookie error - I cut too deep when trying to remove a broken, seized shower arm. Tried to find oil wick, no dice. But I found cotton twine (about the same size) at Home Depot. Couldn't find the blue stuff, so went with Rectorseal #5, which I generously applied. Let it sit overnight, passed the pressure test on the first try!
I used blue block when you put it on and drys it's one of a hell to ever take that pipe off it's very good stuff good man you know your stuff that's for shore
Take the lamp wick, coat it in *liquid* epoxy and lay it in the cut. Add as many layers as necessary. After a few min once it's set up, not cured but no longer tacky, lightly lube and thread a fitting back in until snug and remove again. Now tape/dope it up as normal. Best to final torque the fitting on while epoxy is firm but still has some malleability. And no need to wait until fully cure, can start filing/bleeding system immediately after. A permanent worry/leak-free repair and really may take all of 5-10 min.
I think I will show you all an old trick that seems to have been lost in history but we use it all the time in Alaska and now hopefully everywhere! My father helped me out on some tight pipe threads years ago. When you are in the early stages and applying heat to the female section of a joint via a torch, grab a wax candle and melt some wax into the threads. It sucks in just like solder sucks into a joint, I have used it on frozen galvanized pipe, where even adding a long pipe to your wrench will not work and the joint un screws like butter. We also use it on rusty engine parts that have been used in marine applications, such as manifold bolts etc....you have to get things pretty hot depending on the size but I have almost never had to collapse a fitting. With cast iron make sure you spread the heat nice and even. In other words don't do it when there is water in the bottom of the radiator. Good luck!
love this stuff,excellent.now back in the day when i worked in ammonia refrigeration plants here in nyc,we used to use expando,never had a leak.had to use torch to break it free but thats another story.also my uncle who was a plumber in local one always used litharge and glycerin.there is also one way which is out there but it worked for me on a return line one time,dont laugh as it works.clean up joint as best you can ,use a thin bead of crazy glue,then sprinkle baking soda on joint.wait maybe ten minutes.and should be ok.this reair was on a condesate return line and it was the coldest nite,had no choice but to try iy.used this when i was building model airplanes and with good results,i know it is wacky but,as you know those are the things that get you out of a jam.soldering cast iron is difficult if not impossible but with preheating/heat dams it can be done.with this type of gouge you could try teflon rope carefully packed into nick and then make up joint.just some thoughts here.
To stop a leaking shower head, I replaced the shower valve, and also replaced the seat. I think I cross threaded the (hot side) seat into the valve in wall, because it didn't get progressively tighter as I turned; it got tighter, then looser, then tighter again as I continued turning. (The cold side turned in tightly and snug. There's a leak into the basement underneath when the shower is used. So I'm planning to "redo" it by removing the seat (again) and replacing it with new one, cause I'm told that the seat threads are weaker than the valve threads in the wall. For this case, is it a good idea to use the Blue Block? Sounds like BB isn't appropriate for a seat which likely needs future removal again. Or is Lamp Wick with Rectorseal appropriate? Thanks in advance!
How about tapping a piece of solid copper wire into the cut and letting the cast iron threads press it in white "threading" the top section on the copper wire?
I know that car mechanics will use a metal like paste on a thread that hardens, and then they will re-tap it. Also, I would think to use just a thin layer of anti seize before applying the Teflon tape and brush on sealant would help keep it from locking up for the next guy who has to work on it. I just acquired about 11 radiators, so I will have to service those and reacclimate them according to load, but that may not be a big deal since they are adjustable, as long as I do not put an undersized one in a room. There is always something to know, and I have a lot to learn.
That metal paste (anti-seize) is for minimizing galvanic corrosion in high temp applications (spark plugs, exhaust bolts, etc..). It's not designed for sealing and is water permeable over time once it's petroleum base dries out. At that point it's more of a graphite powder. So great for door hinge pins also. But actual pipe dope should remain pliable and retain some of it's tackiness over it's life which is what you want for a liquid seal.
The reason they get so stuck in the cast radiator is a process known as electrolytic conduction, causing corrosion in the threads. The cast releases atoms to the brass in this process.
You can usually get them off with a large pair of channel lock pliers. If you need more leverage to loosen the nipple, get a cheaper pipe wrench and grind down the width on the jaws and base. No saw needed.
This guys has been a plumber like 40 years. If he could have got it off with a wrench I am sure he would have. Obviously you always want to use a wrench first
@@joshdiehl8737 Some Experienced plumbers often do things a certain way, not always the best way or the right way, but their way, especially when a job is time and material. I’ve seen some plumbers work, shake my head and walk away while others that’s a great idea. Having worked 25 years in hydraulic research and development, you find new and creative ways to get the jobs done quickly, efficiently, and create as little downtime as possible.
My steam radiator threads where the air vent screws in are worn not holding the air vent well. Wll the blue block product allow the vent to be replaced at a future date, or is it a permanent seal like using JB weld? Any advice appreciated, and thank you for a well executed tutorial in the you tube classroom. All the best from New Rochelle N.Y.
No BlueBlock can be removed, it's a soft setting sealer. If you have to drill out the 1/8" vent tapping. Step it up to 1/4", re-tap and install a new vent using a 1/4" X 1/8" bushing. Or a 1/4 " air vent if you can find one, straight ones are easier to find than 1/4" angle.
Another great video….What size valve was that 1 1/2? I am assuming you don’t need a bushing with that size valve? If you do replace the bushing would you suggest a brass bushing or black pipe bushing if your using a bushing with a new valve?
This happen to me ,and i was very successful the first time repairing it. Used a power saw with metal cutting blade. And that was before i seen any of these videos.
Hi bob, where can I get either Sarco valve replacements or, if I can’t, maybe just a plug to plug the valve. Rad system is from 1946 and part of apartment bldg. please help. Need to get the system fixed during summer thank you
It is also called SPOOL WICK. I have been trying to figure out what you are calling the thread. Got a 4" nipple on a water heater to fix TMR. Hopefully I do not have to cut it out and hit the threads.
redoing my water heater.. replacing it with a tankless, the pipes are either galvanized steel or cast iron, honestly they're in a condition that i can't tell anymore. It's got a thread that will hold but umm.. somehow no matter how much teflon tape and silicon plumbers lube she just wont stop dripping. I'll give this a shot, it seems more like your creating a gasket seal between the threads so this may just be what what the doctor ordered. Either that or i'm going to breakout the stick welder and become a pipe welder.
Mike, I never tried that as I don't think the solder will adhere to cast iron. But in theory, it should work. Perhaps if it were a brass or copper convector, it might work.
Using localized heat from a torch is very likely to crack cast iron. This would require an industrial oven and slow heating and cooling. Neither 50/50 tin lead solder nor 95/5 tin/antimony, nor 97/3 tin/silver solder adhere to cast iron anyway. Several types of copper and nickel alloy brazing fillers will adhere, but this requires yet higher temperatures.
Hi Bob, enjoy watching your videos. This is a tad unrelated to this video. I've a 13 year old, 75 gallon Bradford White with the hydra flow feature and insulated top. Appears the "plumbing company" who installed it in 2003 used as little pipe dope as possible on the threads (to get into my wallet again ASAP, I'm sure; notorious company here in the NW.) I was going to replace the anode at the 5 year mark, but my late wife fell ill with breast cancer and every plan we had went south. Anywho, I discovered the other day that that the hot water outlet has a very minute leak and both the anode rod and fitting are badly corroded. I seriously doubt that the liner is rusted as every plumbing shop has told me, for obvious reasons. I believe I'd have noticed it in the water if it had. She heats up fast and appears to be in excellent shape otherwise. I'm afraid a pipewrench would collapse the fitting. How should I go about this? Would drilling a hole thru the fitting and bolting a cap on to break it free be my best bet? As for the anode rod, would you advise a slow cut by hand with a hacksaw and collapse it with channel locks or? From eyeing it, she appears to really be fused on there, and the insulated top is going to be in the way of my getting a solid bite on it. I'm on a fixed income and simply can't afford a new heater right now. Any advice would be much appreciated.
My honest opinion is to leave well enough alone. That heater is most likely covered by a 10-year manufacturer guarantee on the tank itself and you've already gone 3 years beyond that. When I install new heaters I recommend maintenance intervals anywhere from 24-36 months (my method, not gospel ). Once you get to five years and beyond, the thin glass lining most likely has been compromised and maintenance at that point is a 50/50 proposition. Take a couple of photos of the top of the heater showing me the connections you're concerned about, send them to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com. I'll take a look. Regards, Bob.
Same problems with 4" cast iron drain pipe tried chiseling out old 1 1/4 " galvanize pipe water drain now hard finding fitting to replace I took out. PVC won't fit two Different threads.
Hello Bob. Have you ever attempted to use JB Weld to fill the groove and then, after 24 hours, tap the threads? I think filling the groove would be an added precaution instead of relying totally on the lamp wool and blue block. You’re the expert….what do you think?
If you gently tap on the hub all the way around before attempting to unscrew the nipple, it might come loose. Also, make sure that the pipe wrench is touching the nipple at 3 points to prevent egg shaping the nipple.
I change the entire valve, in the good old days we would take the time to pack the valve with graphite packing. Just not cost effective in today’s environment. I. M. H. O.
If you can’t get unscrewed with heat oil and a pipe wrench. Then you need to be very careful with the saw! Also after you cut the nut off put your spud wrench or something inside the pipe before you use the pipe wrench so it doesn’t collapse. Your method seems pretty good but I would try to avoid this at all costs
Seems to me that Union is in backwards if it was switched around you could tighten it without an internal pipe wrench which I never heard of before but if you turn it around you could just wrench it with a pipe wrench then piece together your union! Mk normally and then to connect the union to that existing piece
Anything you can get to sit in between the threads is going to be better than a Teflon product in my opinion. Especially if you're working on older pipe threads.
Why not just use some soft tin/lead wire as a babbitt material to be crushed and oozed into place under the pressure of the fittings? 50/50 40/60 or 30/70 should be soft enough. Just lay the solder wire in the groove. A steel pipe nipple might be better to get the material 90% formed to avoid stressing the brass fitting and risk having it crack. After forming the babbitt material remove the steel nipple and use a pipe dope that’s good at sealing trouble spots, e.g. RectorSeal No 5, it’s sticky and oily but it does a good job sealing malformed threads that shred tapes and scrape off pipe dope that’s not so good at getting all over the hands. At higher material, the automotive thread seals in a thin toothpaste tube that are a dark brown gasket lacquer with clay are very likely to work well on their own, putting a few strands of paperboard makes sure it stays filled while you work. It can be used for steam in an hour. The red anerobic gasket maker will certainly work without any assistance, in another guise it seals A/C and refrigeration against refrigerants, hot/cold and extreme pressures. The only downsides of the red anerobic sealer are the long cure time and the price per pipe joint. The benefit is it will seal even damaged and malformed threads on the first attempt.
Remember Expando? You mixed it up with a stick and worked it into the threads. Royal pain to work with but it sealed pretty much everything. Not sure if they even make it still
my problem is the fitting thread is stripped and I can not get the fitting off to replace it . its where the water goes into the fitting for my bath tub. will this work or is there a different way to fix my problem
You would have to attempt to RE-tap the female thread with the appropriate size pipe tap. You should be able to rent one from one of the home centers or tool rental shop.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos I had did a boiler job with my uncle I couldn't get the blue block off my ex-wife gave me the nail polish remover hundred percent acetone for Natural Nails I was amazed it worked
Bob, Will the same technique work if the nipple were steel instead of brass? I Also notice that you always make your cuts in the upper portion of the nipple. Is that so there will be a lesser tendency to apply too much pressure so as to avoid cutting too deeply and possibly damaging the remaining thread?
I just nearly got heart attack last evening when i cut down the pipe in my washroom n it got crack.. i got scared if i have to cut the whole new tiles I've installed to remove the damaged pipe 😭... But now i think it will work..
Thank you Bob, i need to change 6 or 7 steam valves and i am glad to say that by watching your videos, i am confident enough to do it myself. I am going to buy the tools you've recommended and once spring comes around, i will do it. Thanks again and God Bless. You're great.
Bob this is the second one of your video's that I have watched and want to say thank you and great job. But rather than getting into a long story , I will save you the details lol ,I have a problem that I was wondering if this method would work.I have a brand new brass faucet and brand new brass fitting with a rubber washer on the inside I have already made 2 mistakes first I put tape on oopppssss but second without tape I may have over tightend oopppssss but not sure about that cause 1 side maybe but other really couldn't get on it that much. In either case they both leacked, so would this method work and what would be the probability be lol,at this point I wouldn't hold you to it lol like I said long story.But in any case thanks again and great job !
Don't you just love these jerks, no videos of their own but they feel like they can direct yours........ Beggars can't be choosers.... Good video Bob, it's just too much info for some people to be able to understand.
You probably have more experience than any plumber on RUclips. I've learned a lot from you. Thank you for sharing your skill set with us.
Wow, thanks! That is much appreciated. Bob...👍
Worked with a plumber in recent times. He carried around his lampwick and soap marker as we were cutting and threading black pipe for a boiler. We installed the fittings with lampwick starting below the 2nd thread and doped it and the seal is incredible. It looks old school but works great! Im hoping to get into an apprenticeship here in NYC. Subscribed!
Lampwick is KING! Best of luck to you and thank you for the subscribe! Bob.
I Had used a sawsall carelessly and had the same cut in my cast iron radiator....although cut not quite as bad. This method did the trick! No leaks! Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for sharing, good stuff!
Good video and good advice. I do a lot of steam and boiler work, piping and repairs. I have used the hacksaw technique many times and on rare occasions I have sawed and gotten into the threads. The way I have repaired this scenario is to mix up a small amount of high temp. quick setting epoxy and carefully fill the gap, let it harden and then use my appropriate pipe tap. Works like a champ, makes a permanent repair and I've never had a leak on high or low psi steam. Of course you have to own a set of taps and that may be a downfall for a do it yourselfer.
Gorgeous said the proper pipe and then before it completely sets up you know cut the threads then back it back out
Thanks for the video, Bob - it really helped. Rookie error - I cut too deep when trying to remove a broken, seized shower arm. Tried to find oil wick, no dice. But I found cotton twine (about the same size) at Home Depot. Couldn't find the blue stuff, so went with Rectorseal #5, which I generously applied. Let it sit overnight, passed the pressure test on the first try!
Excellent!
I used blue block when you put it on and drys it's one of a hell to ever take that pipe off it's very good stuff good man you know your stuff that's for shore
Alway's get me out of a jamb! Thanks for checking out the video!
Take the lamp wick, coat it in *liquid* epoxy and lay it in the cut. Add as many layers as necessary. After a few min once it's set up, not cured but no longer tacky, lightly lube and thread a fitting back in until snug and remove again. Now tape/dope it up as normal. Best to final torque the fitting on while epoxy is firm but still has some malleability. And no need to wait until fully cure, can start filing/bleeding system immediately after. A permanent worry/leak-free repair and really may take all of 5-10 min.
This video is a life saver. I'm so happy to have just found your channel!
Me too! Regards, Bob.
I think I will show you all an old trick that seems to have been lost in history but we use it all the time in Alaska and now hopefully everywhere! My father helped me out on some tight pipe threads years ago. When you are in the early stages and applying heat to the female section of a joint via a torch, grab a wax candle and melt some wax into the threads. It sucks in just like solder sucks into a joint, I have used it on frozen galvanized pipe, where even adding a long pipe to your wrench will not work and the joint un screws like butter. We also use it on rusty engine parts that have been used in marine applications, such as manifold bolts etc....you have to get things pretty hot depending on the size but I have almost never had to collapse a fitting. With cast iron make sure you spread the heat nice and even. In other words don't do it when there is water in the bottom of the radiator. Good luck!
Now that is something I've never heard of, thanks very much for that tip! I will give that a try & thanks for checking out the video. Regards, Bob.
this is EXACTLY what I did!!
I thought he was going to mention me by name
love this stuff,excellent.now back in the day when i worked in ammonia refrigeration plants here in nyc,we used to use expando,never had a leak.had to use torch to break it free but thats another story.also my uncle who was a plumber in local one always used litharge and glycerin.there is also one way which is out there but it worked for me on a return line one time,dont laugh as it works.clean up joint as best you can ,use a thin bead of crazy glue,then sprinkle baking soda on joint.wait maybe ten minutes.and should be ok.this reair was on a condesate return line and it was the coldest nite,had no choice but to try iy.used this when i was building model airplanes and with good results,i know it is wacky but,as you know those are the things that get you out of a jam.soldering cast iron is difficult if not impossible but with preheating/heat dams it can be done.with this type of gouge you could try teflon rope carefully packed into nick and then make up joint.just some thoughts here.
Outstanding! Blue Block or Grip has gotten me out of plenty of Jams. Thanks for checking out the video. Regards, Bob.
To stop a leaking shower head, I replaced the shower valve, and also replaced the seat. I think I cross threaded the (hot side) seat into the valve in wall, because it didn't get progressively tighter as I turned; it got tighter, then looser, then tighter again as I continued turning. (The cold side turned in tightly and snug. There's a leak into the basement underneath when the shower is used. So I'm planning to "redo" it by removing the seat (again) and replacing it with new one, cause I'm told that the seat threads are weaker than the valve threads in the wall. For this case, is it a good idea to use the Blue Block? Sounds like BB isn't appropriate for a seat which likely needs future removal again. Or is Lamp Wick with Rectorseal appropriate? Thanks in advance!
I would go with the lamp wick and rectorseal
Nicely illustrated and corrected! Very informative for the DIY beginner!
Thank You James!
I can't seem find on amazon lamp wick used specifically for sealing pipe threads. Is lamp wick just cotton string, but waxy?
Not waxy, this should help:www.supplyhouse.com/Wal-rich-1906004-Spool-Wick
Bob, you're a life saver! Thanks so much for this video.
Happy to help!
How about tapping a piece of solid copper wire into the cut and letting the cast iron threads press it in white "threading" the top section on the copper wire?
Never tried that technique, sounds interesting and if it works that’s all that matters!
Have you tried this?
Thank you so much for sharing your expertise.
Glad it was helpful!
A goddamn life saver Bob thank you
I know that car mechanics will use a metal like paste on a thread that hardens, and then they will re-tap it. Also, I would think to use just a thin layer of anti seize before applying the Teflon tape and brush on sealant would help keep it from locking up for the next guy who has to work on it. I just acquired about 11 radiators, so I will have to service those and reacclimate them according to load, but that may not be a big deal since they are adjustable, as long as I do not put an undersized one in a room. There is always something to know, and I have a lot to learn.
That metal paste (anti-seize) is for minimizing galvanic corrosion in high temp applications (spark plugs, exhaust bolts, etc..). It's not designed for sealing and is water permeable over time once it's petroleum base dries out. At that point it's more of a graphite powder. So great for door hinge pins also. But actual pipe dope should remain pliable and retain some of it's tackiness over it's life which is what you want for a liquid seal.
@@SerenoOunce I appreciate that bit of advice. Thank you.
The reason they get so stuck in the cast radiator is a process known as electrolytic conduction, causing corrosion in the threads. The cast releases atoms to the brass in this process.
Very nice video . Brass is a soft metal and is easy to cut. Hack saw is safer way to do this. Love the videos
Does the Wyck need to be waxed?
No, not at all, get it in between all the threads and follow up with Blue Block.
You can usually get them off with a large pair of channel lock pliers. If you need more leverage to loosen the nipple, get a cheaper pipe wrench and grind down the width on the jaws and base. No saw needed.
This guys has been a plumber like 40 years. If he could have got it off with a wrench I am sure he would have. Obviously you always want to use a wrench first
@@joshdiehl8737 Some Experienced plumbers often do things a certain way, not always the best way or the right way, but their way, especially when a job is time and material.
I’ve seen some plumbers work, shake my head and walk away while others that’s a great idea. Having worked 25 years in hydraulic research and development, you find new and creative ways to get the jobs done quickly, efficiently, and create as little downtime as possible.
My steam radiator threads where the air vent screws in are worn not holding the air vent well. Wll the blue block product allow the vent to be replaced at a future date, or is it a permanent seal like using JB weld? Any advice appreciated, and thank you for a well executed tutorial in the you tube classroom. All the best from New Rochelle N.Y.
No BlueBlock can be removed, it's a soft setting sealer. If you have to drill out the 1/8" vent tapping. Step it up to 1/4", re-tap and install a new vent using a 1/4" X 1/8" bushing. Or a 1/4 " air vent if you can find one, straight ones are easier to find than 1/4" angle.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thank you for the timely reply, and top shelf guidance.All the best to you and family this holiday season.
Another great video….What size valve was that 1 1/2? I am assuming you don’t need a bushing with that
size valve? If you do replace the bushing would you suggest a brass bushing or black pipe bushing if your
using a bushing with a new valve?
I believe it's 1 1/4" and on steam I would just use a black iron bushing.
This happen to me ,and i was very successful the first time repairing it. Used a power saw with metal cutting blade. And that was before i seen any of these videos.
How do you find the size of the nut that goes into the radiator??
Hi bob, where can I get either Sarco valve replacements or, if I can’t, maybe just a plug to plug the valve. Rad system is from 1946 and part of apartment bldg. please help. Need to get the system fixed during summer thank you
Not sure what parts you're looking for, but you may want to check out this source: www.statesupply.com/spirax-sarco/valve/part
It is also called SPOOL WICK. I have been trying to figure out what you are calling the thread. Got a 4" nipple on a water heater to fix TMR. Hopefully I do not have to cut it out and hit the threads.
Outstanding channel, Bob. I got this, thanks to you.
have used the Grip on steam and it works great...
redoing my water heater.. replacing it with a tankless, the pipes are either galvanized steel or cast iron, honestly they're in a condition that i can't tell anymore. It's got a thread that will hold but umm.. somehow no matter how much teflon tape and silicon plumbers lube she just wont stop dripping. I'll give this a shot, it seems more like your creating a gasket seal between the threads so this may just be what what the doctor ordered. Either that or i'm going to breakout the stick welder and become a pipe welder.
That's exactly what happens!
your my hero, i love that blue stuff. its like kryptonite for leaks
Midnight Raiin LOL! This is absolutely true! Outstanding👍 regards, Bob.
I'm will add some lampwick to my big box asap! Thanks for your years of experience
Bob, could you use a torch and melt solder into the cut then run a thread cutter into the hole?
But I like your suggestions also.
Mike, I never tried that as I don't think the solder will adhere to cast iron. But in theory, it should work. Perhaps if it were a brass or copper convector, it might work.
Using localized heat from a torch is very likely to crack cast iron. This would require an industrial oven and slow heating and cooling. Neither 50/50 tin lead solder nor 95/5 tin/antimony, nor 97/3 tin/silver solder adhere to cast iron anyway. Several types of copper and nickel alloy brazing fillers will adhere, but this requires yet higher temperatures.
Hi Bob, enjoy watching your videos. This is a tad unrelated to this video. I've a 13 year old, 75 gallon Bradford White with the hydra flow feature and insulated top. Appears the "plumbing company" who installed it in 2003 used as little pipe dope as possible on the threads (to get into my wallet again ASAP, I'm sure; notorious company here in the NW.) I was going to replace the anode at the 5 year mark, but my late wife fell ill with breast cancer and every plan we had went south. Anywho, I discovered the other day that that the hot water outlet has a very minute leak and both the anode rod and fitting are badly corroded. I seriously doubt that the liner is rusted as every plumbing shop has told me, for obvious reasons. I believe I'd have noticed it in the water if it had. She heats up fast and appears to be in excellent shape otherwise. I'm afraid a pipewrench would collapse the fitting. How should I go about this? Would drilling a hole thru the fitting and bolting a cap on to break it free be my best bet? As for the anode rod, would you advise a slow cut by hand with a hacksaw and collapse it with channel locks or? From eyeing it, she appears to really be fused on there, and the insulated top is going to be in the way of my getting a solid bite on it. I'm on a fixed income and simply can't afford a new heater right now. Any advice would be much appreciated.
My honest opinion is to leave well enough alone. That heater is most likely covered by a 10-year manufacturer guarantee on the tank itself and you've already gone 3 years beyond that. When I install new heaters I recommend maintenance intervals anywhere from 24-36 months (my method, not gospel ). Once you get to five years and beyond, the thin glass lining most likely has been compromised and maintenance at that point is a 50/50 proposition. Take a couple of photos of the top of the heater showing me the connections you're concerned about, send them to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com. I'll take a look. Regards, Bob.
thanks so much, Bob. email with pics sent.
Same problems with 4" cast iron drain pipe tried chiseling out old 1 1/4 " galvanize pipe water drain now hard finding fitting to replace I took out. PVC won't fit two Different threads.
Hello Bob.
Have you ever attempted to use JB Weld to fill the groove and then, after 24 hours, tap the threads?
I think filling the groove would be an added precaution instead of relying totally on the lamp wool and blue block.
You’re the expert….what do you think?
Great idea that I'm sure would work. When you're doing service work going from job to job you gotta make it work NOW! LOL! Regards, Bob.
If you gently tap on the hub all the way around before attempting to unscrew the nipple, it might come loose. Also, make sure that the pipe wrench is touching the nipple at 3 points to prevent egg shaping the nipple.
Do you ever worry about changing the washers/packing when it leaks from the shutoff stem or do you just change the whole valve
I change the entire valve, in the good old days we would take the time to pack the valve with graphite packing. Just not cost effective in today’s environment. I. M. H. O.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos thanks
Whould this work on shower pipe?
The Technique will work on any damaged thread as long as the cut is not overly deep.
If you can’t get unscrewed with heat oil and a pipe wrench. Then you need to be very careful with the saw! Also after you cut the nut off put your spud wrench or something inside the pipe before you use the pipe wrench so it doesn’t collapse. Your method seems pretty good but I would try to avoid this at all costs
Seems to me that Union is in backwards if it was switched around you could tighten it without an internal pipe wrench which I never heard of before but if you turn it around you could just wrench it with a pipe wrench then piece together your union!
Mk
normally and then to connect the union to that existing piece
I over cut my water hose off the spigot, now spigot has a cut, will this work?
If you didn't go to deep? Possible.
I telplon and blue block do the job.Or flex seal
Is there an advantage of using lamp wick over a waxed hemp wick?
Anything you can get to sit in between the threads is going to be better than a Teflon product in my opinion. Especially if you're working on older pipe threads.
Also if you have access to those cotton mops like they use in schools, you can unravel that in a pinch. Works well enough to get you by. 🤷🏻♂️
Nice tip! Thanks for that 👍
Put Teflon first and liquid Teflon nexts it will hold .
Why not just use some soft tin/lead wire as a babbitt material to be crushed and oozed into place under the pressure of the fittings? 50/50 40/60 or 30/70 should be soft enough. Just lay the solder wire in the groove. A steel pipe nipple might be better to get the material 90% formed to avoid stressing the brass fitting and risk having it crack. After forming the babbitt material remove the steel nipple and use a pipe dope that’s good at sealing trouble spots, e.g. RectorSeal No 5, it’s sticky and oily but it does a good job sealing malformed threads that shred tapes and scrape off pipe dope that’s not so good at getting all over the hands.
At higher material, the automotive thread seals in a thin toothpaste tube that are a dark brown gasket lacquer with clay are very likely to work well on their own, putting a few strands of paperboard makes sure it stays filled while you work. It can be used for steam in an hour. The red anerobic gasket maker will certainly work without any assistance, in another guise it seals A/C and refrigeration against refrigerants, hot/cold and extreme pressures. The only downsides of the red anerobic sealer are the long cure time and the price per pipe joint. The benefit is it will seal even damaged and malformed threads on the first attempt.
thank you for the info
Any time!
I wonder if the brass expanding into the radiator was a design back in the day when brass had more lead and was more malleable.
Not sure?
Remember Expando? You mixed it up with a stick and worked it into the threads. Royal pain to work with but it sealed pretty much everything. Not sure if they even make it still
A couple people have said they dropped some solder into the nic and then ran a nipple into the fitting to cut new threads. Never tried it myself!
Thats a cool trick. Whatever it takes to get done get paid and go home, right?
Richard Luca They still do from what I found online..!
Great info bob. Thanks
Alain From Brooklyn
You're welcome, Alan! Thanks for watching! Regards, Bob.
my problem is the fitting thread is stripped and I can not get the fitting off to replace it . its where the water goes into the fitting for my bath tub. will this work or is there a different way to fix my problem
Send me some photos, I'll see if I can help. Send them to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.
Tip, you don't need to saw. Just shock it a few times with a sledge hammer it and will come off easil
y.
What do you do if it’s not threading in straight?
You would have to attempt to RE-tap the female thread with the appropriate size pipe tap. You should be able to rent one from one of the home centers or tool rental shop.
Done that 😂 I’m an old timer. HEMP will sort that out. Maybe with a bit of dope just to make sure 😜 I still use hemp. We’re allowed to.
Thanks for reminding me this thing ..coz i already knew the *thread locker n gasket maker* ..n i just forgot this in my time coz i panicked..❤️❤️
Great video Bob, thanks much!!
Bob you could also use nail polish remover all woman have that in the house acetone takes off Blue Block
Excellent point!
@@BobsPlumbingVideos I had did a boiler job with my uncle I couldn't get the blue block off my ex-wife gave me the nail polish remover hundred percent acetone for Natural Nails I was amazed it worked
I messed mine up on the bathroom faucet! I squeezed to hard and it's not rounded now!
what can I do to reround the housing?
Expando pipe dope works excellent
Never used blue block but it’s sounds like a miracle
Gets me out of a lot of jams!
Supco Leak Lock also works just as well. Both leak lock and blue block clean up with isopropyl alcohol.
Have you tried loctite 55?
Great!
Bob, Will the same technique work if the nipple were steel instead of brass? I Also notice that you always make your cuts in the upper portion of the nipple. Is that so there will be a lesser tendency to apply too much pressure so as to avoid cutting too deeply and possibly damaging the remaining thread?
It works on brass, steel, galvanized. I'll make my cuts wherever I have the room, top, bottom, left or right side! Depends on the job circumstances.
Thanks Bob!
It helps prevent leaking since the water only collects at the bottom to return to the boiler.
I just nearly got heart attack last evening when i cut down the pipe in my washroom n it got crack.. i got scared if i have to cut the whole new tiles I've installed to remove the damaged pipe 😭... But now i think it will work..
Going through this now. How did you end up? Well I cant even get the nipple out.😟
Just a heads up; if you do get Blue Block on your skin, you can use some WD40 on a rag to get it off
WD-40 is a poor penetrant, but makes a for a pretty good degreaser.
Ive used an impact gun with 100% success and without breakages
Will be trying this on my shower head elbow. Thanks!
You might want to also check this video out - ruclips.net/video/PWrxwMRbo5g/видео.html thanks for checking out the videos! Bob.
Best to just use Teflon paste that contains Teflon fibers...
Great tip!
I would fill the nick with epoxy putty, let it harden, then chase the threads with a pipe thread die.
Great Video. Thank you very much.
Awesome video! Thank you!
Glad it helped!
Great video bob!
Thank you my friend! Regards, Bob.
Where do you buy Lampric? Could you post amazon link? Thanks.
You're welcome! Sure, here you go -www.supplyhouse.com/Generic-SpoolWick-Spool-Wick-5199000-p
Thank you Bob, i need to change 6 or 7 steam valves and i am glad to say that by watching your videos, i am confident enough to do it myself. I am going to buy the tools you've recommended and once spring comes around, i will do it.
Thanks again and God Bless. You're great.
Old Galvanize pipe water line for shutoff value with no threads. How to fix to turn water flow back on.
Did you try tapping out the fitting?
I can't help but wonder if something like dental floss wouldn't be more durable.
Funny you say that😂 I’ve actually tried it in combination with Blue Block thread sealant. IT WORKED!👍
Great lesson
Thank You, Jim!
We used to call it magic string 😂
Took me 10 minutes to figure out you said "lamp wick." I thought were saying lambrick. Am I right, is it lamp wick?
You are correct! Hey it's my Brooklyn, sorry!
degreaser removes rectorseal pipe thread sealant.
Bob this is the second one of your video's that I have watched and want to say thank you and great job. But rather than getting into a long story , I will save you the details lol ,I have a problem that I was wondering if this method would work.I have a brand new brass faucet and brand new brass fitting with a rubber washer on the inside I have already made 2 mistakes first I put tape on oopppssss but second without tape I may have over tightend oopppssss but not sure about that cause 1 side maybe but other really couldn't get on it that much. In either case they both leacked, so would this method work and what would be the probability be lol,at this point I wouldn't hold you to it lol like I said long story.But in any case thanks again and great job !
Could you forward me a couple of pictures of the issue? Info@robertsessaplumbing.com. Regards, Bob.
The simplest and oldest method which was used to stop steam leaks from bolts / Rivets in Lancashire Boilers. Caulk the nick with lead.
I cut nipples out all the time, I hit the threads some times but as long as I tape the new nipple and dope it I haven’t had any issues.
Good one bob
Thank you Louie, much appreciated! Bob
TLDW: Lampwick and Blue Block.
thank you it is very simple
thanks I'll try it.
Good Luck!
Thank you good info.
DYNAMITE way to repair, and I will definitely wait the 24 hours ; probably 36 hours cure time .
Entendi foi
Nada
Waste of Teflon.. most unfortunate. Just put a piece of steel wire in the cut before assembling as usual.
use megaloc
Everyday!
I'd recommend not doing any of this. Buy a miller tru- seal nut and be done with it.
They make tru seal bushings? how is a nut going to seal that?
@@petergriffin1546 The seal nut screws onto the bushing. Screw bushing in then the seal nut gets tightened down toward female threads.
Dude you talk way too much
Just put red Teflon
That's the price of FREE plumbing advice...Deal with it Pal!
Don't you just love these jerks, no videos of their own but they feel like they can direct yours........ Beggars can't be choosers....
Good video Bob, it's just too much info for some people to be able to understand.
Go to church dummy
Where do you get lamp wick? Looks like something you should have before it’s needed.
Bryan M Plumbing Outlet... Online also..