Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. Everything that works well in this world was built by people that cared about how they did their work. As I get older, these people become my heroes more and more. It’s hard enough to build the world, but to find the time to explain how you did it is even more impressive. I spent a lot of time today joining iron and brass pipe. And I appreciate learning from you.
Been doing pipe fittings, sweating fittings for almost 50 years. Mostly just what my dad taught me. Never had an issue but ran into a problem “leaker” pipe fittings recently. Used the teflon and blue block successfully. Appreciate your post 👍
Excellent video, very informative. When I built my house about 30 years ago I hired a plumber friend to do the plumbing and I worked along with him. I had some experience sweating copper and working with PVC but by the time the house was finished I had experience with gas line installation, putting in a boiler, running a threading machine, codes, you name it. I think I could have become a plumbers apprentice. One thing he taught me that has stuck through the years is when allowed (not on gas pipe) to use Teflon tape and then pipe dope over it. He said doing this will just about guarantee you'll never have a leak and I never have so it was interesting to see that you do the same thing. The only time I ever had problems doing this was when I had to replace a leaking expansion tank on my boiler. The expansion tank is threaded into an air scoop which is made from thick cast iron. Teflon is a great lubricant and it allowed me to over tighten the expansion tank pretty easily and put a hair line crack in the scoop. I was told later by another plumber that he never uses Teflon tape on cast iron for just this reason, a lesson he learned the hard way himself.
I have had nothing but failures with teflon tape and struggled with leaking pipe joints for years. I thank you for exposing how to successfully sealing pipe thread fittings.
Long before Teflon, spool lampwick and Hercules pipe joint compound (Pro Dope) were the go too products. They worked when I was coming up in the trade and they’re bullet proof today! Thanks for checking out the video, regards. Bob.
never used pipe dope....wrap it in the right direction ...less is more...on old fitting I put a little never seize on the threads then cover with teflon tape
I just had to pull (lean over) a newly installed fiberglass shower stall. Teflon only had slow drips. Teflon and thread sealer did the trick. Something so damn simple biting me on the butt, but your video effort was well worth it. Thanks.
I REALLY LOVE THE APPROACH AND DELIVERY IN PRESENTING YOUR CONTENT AND IS VERY EASY TO UNDERSTAND WHILE REASON AND DONE WITH NO MUSS OR FUSS WITH HIGH TREASURABILITY TO THOSE WHO PUT INTO ACTION. MANY THANKS AND BLESS YOU FROM BAD HAND, WEAK KNEED, AND SOLE REMAINING TO OLD FIXER UPPER AND ONLY KNOW WHAT MY DAD TAUGHT ME AND WATCHING MY GUARDIAN FATHER WHO WATCHES OVER ME NOW FOR MY DAD AND IS THE ONLY PLUMBER MY DAD WOULD USE WHEN NEEDED DONE AND NOW IS UP IN AGE TOO!
Use it on any threaded seal connection. Drain pvc, drain brass, drain copper, iron natrural gas, etc. If its threaded...use some pipe thread sealant. Its not for sealing, its for anti-galling of threaded connections. Remember that. But that means sometimes you need it to get something tight enough to not leak. And without it you may have threads galling and not allowing full seating of your connection.
Thanks for the tips. I put in a new electric water heater and your videos were a great resource. I used Megaoc for the first time in combination with the teflon tape. Not a leak when I was finished.
Great Video! I agree with you 100% use both Teflon and Dope! I’ve had multiple jobs with a small leak when my guys have just used one. Nothing more frustrating than to redo a job when it could have been solved with both
Disagree with covering the first thread with Teflon tape. Keep the first thread clean for an easy start. I agree with you and also do not run the tape all the way up the thread, it's just a waste of tape as those threads will never enter the joint. The other reason for not cover the first thread is any tape hanging over the first thread and end of the pipe WILL break loose and enter the piping system. In some cases this might not be a problem but in others you never know where it might travel to. Solenoid valves in dishwashers or ice makers are two examples where you don't want fragments of tape to be.
You only tried 3, didn't actually pressure test any of them for a comparison test. You didn't try any UK available or oatey products. Please do a better video, also why didn't you bother putting the tape on properly.
Definitely learned from you about the pipe thread sealants. I am replacing a PRV. I put Teflon tape on the threads. The PRV is a brass fitting. The locknuts are brass from existing hardware on collar/tailpiece assembly. The bottom locknut seals. The top locknut is not completely flush, so the locknut does not bottom out correctly. Never used to paste before, but I am going to try it. If it works per a man of your experience, this is going to be a fun installation. This problem had me stumped. I lacked insight on the solution. It's a residential pressure reducing valve so I will set the psi at 60--65, but first I got to make sure the connections are water tight seal. Looking forward to plumbing.
@@paulcampbellsr.9818 you were asking where bobsplumbing is? Or where sandra is ? Sorry I thought you were asking about the guy who is doing the videos
Very good video. One comment though. I am a retired instrument technician from a nuclear power plant. We stopped using teflon tape in the plant due to technicians installing teflon tape to the very end of the threads (the narrow end). For a while we could use pipe dope only. Because the threads are tapered, the first and / or second thread do very little in the sealing process. What we saw occurring was pieces of the teflon from the narrow end would become loose and go into the system (water, steam, whatever system it was on) and clog something down the line. We call it foreign material in a nuke. Not good for the plant. I noticed in your video you like to go to the very end and even some of the tape was over the end of the pipe somewhat. That was something we had to be very careful not to do and I follow the same practice when I do any plumbing work. Another note. I was watching your video because I am installing a water system in my house. It uses plastic fittings (male and female) and I am using brass fittings to join the house to the new water system. I encountered some leaking problems and was wondering if you have any thoughts on sealing those kind of unions. Thanks, Jerry
On brass to plastic connections as a rule on waste lines (low or no pressure), I'll use a good quality Teflon and the Mega Lock joint compound together. On pressurized water line's I'llsubstitute the Blue Block instead Mega Lock. In extreme conditions, I use the spool lampwick and Blue Block.
When we get through this Virus situation, people are going to have a new appreciation for the Journeyman service men and women in this country! God bless all the guys who keep this country up and going , plumber, electrician, 𝐇𝐕𝐀𝐂, long haul trucker, under appreciated for decades! Need good healthcare that doesn’t cost a fortune or has such high deductible people live with their health problems for years, until they are dangerously sick!!!
Bob great video ...you speak clearly and slow enough for guy who is very new to plumbing ...looking forward to running more of your Happy Plumbing Videos!
Thanks for the video. I only have to put a fitting on the end of hose with brass fittings on the ends, but now I know what to use. Hopefully the teflon will keep it from getting corroded together too.
Thanks bro. I liked and subscribed. Your video was very informative I am currently doing a lot of plumbing around the house and I am trying to soak up all the knowledge I can
Thank you for the great video and info, i have to seal a tank at suction line that is leaking and the Austrian company that built it used hemp sealant but is there another way to seal this joint if i do not have hemp?
Excellent video. Thanks for the detailed explanations. I wrestled with leaks installing an outdoor water spigot. Teflon tape alone didn't cut it. I ended up using Teflon tape and Real-Tuff Thread Sealant. Totally did the trick. Thanks much!
Beginner here, though I have replaced kitchen sink faucets. I'm about to tackle replacing my bath/shower faucet and this helped a lot! I did see thread hanging off the older pipes and was wondering what it was. Now I know!
Thanks so much! You took my small little job too another level. Simply I have to put a 90 Into my gas cook top. I was just going to use the gas teflon tape. I have two elbows to Install, going out to buy pipe dope. You rock!
Thank you, Bob, Spot-on terrific info and also a nice walk down memory lane. I'm 63 and my father (420 Steamfitters) started me off with Pro Dope and lamp wick, which is still nice for some old hot-water radiator repairs! Also, great review of different type products and specific applications which is more of what is important instead of debating (as I often see) whether Hercules, Rectorseal, Blue Monster, etc. is the best?! All of the aforementioned companies make terrific products, but knowing how to use those products is the key! Passing this on to friends.... Cheers
Thanks Bob for a great video! What are your thoughts on anaerobic sealants and how long do you have to wait before turning on the gas after using an anaerobic sealant ie to allow it to cure properly etc
When working with low pressure gas or drainage fittings I'll turn it on immediately, if I have a questionable joint on a water line I may wait a few hours before turning it back on. For the most part in everyday situations, everything goes live immediately.
First time viewer. Bob, you are one of the best! It's nice to see a pro do the teaching. I'll be using your tricks going forward :) Happy New Year bud!!!
I put a quick connect on a well pressure tank and need to know the best way to clean and make a good seal. this is the second time using this quick connect. It's 1 years old. Thanks
Thanks! I think I now know why my 1.25 to 1. inch reducer is leaking/dripping on my pressure tank diy hook up. I over-torqued it and used only metal pipe dope. I will get a new reducer and use teflon with teflon sealant, and not over-torque.
Yes, threads are imperfect, if you screw something (especially larger things) there is a bit of loose wiggle. Fine thread, naturally less. Good video, more to it than I thought.
Gey man love the video. What's your opinion on rector seal T2 or 5 doft set? Thats what I use exclusively and hercules teflon. Use rector seal for everything
I like real tuff over Megalock but like you said it is difficult to clean for sure, almost like a white tar if that makes any sense. I’m probably using way to much. I think they lubricate more than they seal imo making it easier to tighten the fittings and also makes loosening in the future much much easier.
Thanks! Good info, other than the part where you to threaded the nipple through the back side of the die when explaining taper around 2:00. But why did it turn in so far by hand on the wrong side of the taper?? Idk
Will this take 1200 F heat ??? I will be putting the 316 and 304 SS mix pipe inside my woodstove. This will be the secondary burn part of the stove. The pipe I am using are 3M pressure grade. All overkill but the price was right so that is what I used Bob. Thanks for your time Sir. vf@@BobsPlumbingVideos
Great video, thanks for sharing! But still have a question... I have a shower head arm that is a little loose when oriented in the correct direction. If I try to make one more revolution the arm gets so tight it only makes it 3/4 of the way around. Wondering what I can do to ensure that there is no leak since this is a remodel and there is no way to see if there is a slight drip inside the wall
In a situation like that, I'll remove the arm and double down on the amount of Teflon. Instead of 5 or 6 times around I'll go 10 or 12 times around. It will usually make up the difference and you won't have to make that final rotation.
FWIW: re 4:08 The "tapered pipe thread" is designed to provide excellent mechanical rigidity & good seal despite inconsistent tap & die 'sizes', but the abrupt end & reversal of the tapping motion, provides a fractured 'seam' across the threads where the cutting edges of the tool stopped. That little step, is where the 'leak' can occur. Normally, if the fitting is well tightened, the metal will be slightly stretched & the 'seam' will also be smooshed smooth enough to be gas tight. If you look, you can easily see, and sometimes you can feel the 90 or 120 degree 'click' as the seams pass each other.
Great information video. Q. What about PVC threaded mixed with metal threaded fittings? I've had water lines that were being used for well house, sprinkler and had mixed success. I was taught as you mentioned cleaning the threads with a brush first but even had leaks. I have used T. tape, T. tape with joint compound and still have a few issues now and then. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks for sharing.
I hate plastic to metal threads....teflon and paste.....I know you're not supposed to do it but that's the only time I'd put a little paste on the internal threads of the steel fitting
Hey Bob. Great video. I know you don't need tape or dope on compression fittings (brass ferrules or rubber o-rings), but I like to put some tape on the threads because it seems to help control corrosion making it easier to take apart later if needed.
I'll use Teflon on pipe threads in combination with pipe joint compound. I tend not to use it on compression or flare fittings but will lubricate the threads with pipe joint compound to make up the nuts easily.
Thank you for this video. I will be installing a new boiler using black pipe for the supply and return headers. Your video was a great help in making sure I seal the joints correctly. Very well done.
Hi there, awesome video. I am installing a diesel slip tank in my pickup. I assume I should use a thread sealant with PTFE? I have a under tonneau cover slip tank therefore the pump will be below the highest level of diesel fuel, thus putting a lot of pressure on the pump connection where it screws into the NPT on the slip tank. Should I use teflon tape and thread sealant or just thread sealant with PTFE?
Hi, thank you for this video. could you please comment on what you think about shark bite products. If they are safe to use for pipe fittings.Thank you.
Excellent video! Can you give me any advice on what I should use with fittings that go into a steam generator? I picked up a bunch of these Hoffman steamers that I need to rebuild, and I've never worked with steamers before. Also, while taking these things apart I notice a lot of the fittings are corroded to hell and back. I actually had one of the nipples snap in half while trying to take it out of the vessel! I don't want these things to corrode again if I can help it, so any advice on how to prevent that in the future? Sorry if these are all basic questions; this is all rather new to me!
I would most likely use a combination of either the old style spool lamp-wick or blue monster or mega teflon tape and the blue block sealant. I find the Blue block the most reliable sealant when working with older corroded fittings. And if possible clean out your fitting with a sharp pipe tap to insure a good fit between the male and female fittings.
I use everyone of these products, and typically continue use of water and or waste immediately. Exception would be possibly with a real bad thread using Blue-Block, I might wait 24 hrs if that's at all possible. Most times it's not!
Thanks Bob for a great video! Which pipe dope would you use for heating element threads in a steam boiler tank application? Does boiler/steam app fall in the category of gas so use blue block? Looking forward to your opinion. Many thanks.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos 1) just so I fully understand, by 'blue block', do you mean : - 'blue Teflon tape + BLOCK pipe dope'" ? or - BLOCK pipe dope'" only will work fine? 2) Lastly, I assume using BLOCK is no problem should the water boiler heating element ever need replacing (unscrew threads again in future if needed) ? Thx .
With threaded brass fittings, leave ~2.5 threads showing on the male connection as a general guide to avoid over-tightening the softer brass. Brass threads can warp, crush or distort if over-tightened.
Nice video!! So, what size under ground plastic gas line should I use to service a 25000btu unit about 60' run. In the house I've got 26' of 1 1/4 to first appliance, and about 35' servicing furnace, water, stove and washing machine. The new drop will be 7' of 3/4" to under ground connection. Thank you in advance.
What about the red semi hard stuff that comes on air tool fittings from brands like husky? That stuff works so well and cleans up great. Can't find something similar!
My question is when installing a threaded PVC adapter to a Brass thread (PRV) for a sprinkler system should you use teflon tape only or teflon tape and teflon Thread Sealant like Christy's Ultra Seal T-10,000?
Do you have a video or, know of a video that shows how to connect a PVC schd 40 female or male adapter to an elbow on metal pipe? Awesome video, Bob. Thanks so much.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos and only to prevent abrassion on the plastic part and prevent sticking, so not as much as metal-to-metal, right? BTW, one can really see you know your stuff. On the other hand I like the looks of neatly wound teflon tape sticking out - it looks clean and done to me when checking later (but only on ugly plastic or metal hidden joints, not the fancy visible shiny pipes).
Thanks for the video. I need to unscrew pipes that have pipe dope applied to them. How can I safely remove copper water supply lines attached with pipe dope before replacing them with braided water supply lines? Is there a specific technique to use with copper lines, water supply lines, and PVC?
Most important is to hold back on the fitting you're attempting to remove the pipe from. Remove counter clockwise and hold back in a clockwise position.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks, Bob. I'll make sure to do so. So, it should unscrew without a need for vinegar or wd-40 to dissolve the pipe dope/pipe joint compound? One final question is if you think it's wise to install a Delta faucet with PEX water supply tubing. I was hoping for braided supply lines but found out Delta only uses PEX tubing on this item. I would rather not cut it and risk adjoining the ferrules incorrectly. Is it okay to loop the PEX tubing once before attaching it to the water supply valves? Or should I consider finding another faucet that has braided supply lines that can be looped?
Blue block with teflon tape works in both new and old pipes because the new ones come with all kind of impurities also, you don't want to take any risk. Of course for the gas pipes only blue block on the male thread.
Used Teflon tape first, then rectaseal, liked the smell of the pipe dope, but very rare if never leaked in my years of plumbing heating . The problem with Teflon and dope with Teflon, oil pump mfgs. Advise against Teflon, I personally saw a oil pump leak oil from a hanging furnace that the installer used plain Teflon tape. On water the combos can’t be beat. Very good video.
Love the Megalock, discovered it by accident at Home Depot, just using it for water fittings around the house. Back in the late 60's/early 70's I worked for a gas utility, they exclusively used the old yellow Rectorseal. No teflon in it in those days. I always felt it just lubricated the joints, with high pressure mains and gas at 75 or so PSI, how could compound hold back the gas, it's really the compression of the pipe and fitting. We always called it pipe dope, never heard anyone call it compound.
I have always used Megaloc but want to try a new product just for fun. Would you say the standard Blue Monster thread sealant or the newer Blue Monster with PTFE pipe thread sealant which is white rather than blue would be better? Thanks for the awesome video!
Thanks for checking out the video, I would say the standard Blue Monster w/ Teflon tape will get the job done. I currently still use the Megaloc w/ Teflon. I wanted to love Real-Tuff which is white, but it's to messy I.M.H.O!
I learned a ton watching this and love your attention to aesthetics and detail - thanks for a great post. On different note, your post made me think how fun it would be as a layperson to be at a convention and listen to the debates you guys must have about stuff like the myriad personal styles of joinery and applying teflon tape. Love it.
I learned with lamp wick and pro dope in 1998. I had an old school plumbing instructor. Still my preferred method. I've used mega lock here and there. With the tape I learned to put the dope on first then the tape over it. Real Touff I mainly used for fire sprinkler systems. Blue block makes a mess, it's like paint and gets everywhere. I didn't do much gas piping, but I used it exclusively for oil, from the tank piping, oil filter, firomattic valves, up to the burner.
started out as a maintenance mechanic in the early 80's never saw it in threads.....would wrap leaky condensate fittings with new mop strings until we could shut down
This is the best video I have seen on this subject! Is is best just to use Blue Block on everything just to be safe? Keep up the great content, I'm subbed!
I use Blue Block on all gas work and problem waste and water leaks. It can get messy, I'm confident using Mega-Loc as my everyday go-to thread sealant. Thanks for checking out the video! Regards, Bob.
Good video. Thx. The devil is always in the details for us weekend warriors and you helped fill in a lot of them. I'm on the West Coast but if I were in NYC and got into trouble I would definitely call you to come out.
I'm fitting a new air regulator onto an air compressor and struggling to get it air tight. Both threads are straight but there is a locking nut on the male thread of the regulator. I've tried pipe dope and tape but it still leaked a little. Do I just need to use more, or try a hard setting thread lock instead?
Dope then tape. Fills in the threads better and comes out much cleaner. I'm a Fire Sprinkler Fitter and I usually do about 5 wraps. We use either Teflon dope or C5A copper anti cease along with Teflon tape
Thanks for the advice! I only put Teflon tape on a new kitchen sink shut off valve and it wouldn't stop leaking. I'm going to get some sealant tonight!
What’s up Bob.? There was an old pipe sealant you mentioned. I’m not sure if it was this video or another video.! It was in a red container and sometime you would have to heat up the pipe in order to loosen it.! Do you know what pipe sealant I’m talking about.?
When I changed over from galvanised pipes to copper tubing 35 years ago, I installed a permanent pressure gauge on the cold water line in basement laundry. Many older homes in Vancouver, B.C. Canada where I live do not have a pressure regulator valve. The typical pressure in my neighbourhood was about 80 psi, dropping somewhat in the summer. A few weeks ago it was going up as high as 120 psi, so I decided to install a Watt pressure regulator on the 3/4 copper entry. My first two attempts with teflon tape only on a tapered brass fitting dripped, and on my third try with even more tape it still leaked, and now a union on the line was dripping. I found your video, bought the Canadian MegaLoc, which has English and French instructions, followed your directions and both connections are completely dry. What I really noticed as I torqued with the MegaLoc and teflon combo, was how smooth and easily it tightened compared to teflon only. Pressure is now set at 60 psi. Sure glad I found your video. Angus.
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Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. Everything that works well in this world was built by people that cared about how they did their work. As I get older, these people become my heroes more and more. It’s hard enough to build the world, but to find the time to explain how you did it is even more impressive. I spent a lot of time today joining iron and brass pipe. And I appreciate learning from you.
I'm glad you're finding the information helpful and thanks for the support!
Been doing pipe fittings, sweating fittings for almost 50 years. Mostly just what my dad taught me. Never had an issue but ran into a problem “leaker” pipe fittings recently. Used the teflon and blue block successfully. Appreciate your post 👍
Good stuff! Thanks for sharing!
Excellent video, very informative. When I built my house about 30 years ago I hired a plumber friend to do the plumbing and I worked along with him. I had some experience sweating copper and working with PVC but by the time the house was finished I had experience with gas line installation, putting in a boiler, running a threading machine, codes, you name it. I think I could have become a plumbers apprentice. One thing he taught me that has stuck through the years is when allowed (not on gas pipe) to use Teflon tape and then pipe dope over it. He said doing this will just about guarantee you'll never have a leak and I never have so it was interesting to see that you do the same thing. The only time I ever had problems doing this was when I had to replace a leaking expansion tank on my boiler. The expansion tank is threaded into an air scoop which is made from thick cast iron. Teflon is a great lubricant and it allowed me to over tighten the expansion tank pretty easily and put a hair line crack in the scoop. I was told later by another plumber that he never uses Teflon tape on cast iron for just this reason, a lesson he learned the hard way himself.
Thank you Rich, much appreciated. Bob.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos what do you suggest on stainless to stainless or stainless to brass?
I have had nothing but failures with teflon tape and struggled with leaking pipe joints for years. I thank you for exposing how to successfully sealing pipe thread fittings.
Long before Teflon, spool lampwick and Hercules pipe joint compound (Pro Dope) were the go too products. They worked when I was coming up in the trade and they’re bullet proof today! Thanks for checking out the video, regards. Bob.
Sounds like you were probably applying the teflon against the threads rather than with the threads(clockwise)
never used pipe dope....wrap it in the right direction ...less is more...on old fitting I put a little never seize on the threads then cover with teflon tape
I took apart my 74 year old utility(stone) sink, and the rope held up very well!
I am a new home owner and female who was never thought much about products to use. THank you for this video now I can teach my adult son.
I just had to pull (lean over) a newly installed fiberglass shower stall. Teflon only had slow drips. Teflon and thread sealer did the trick. Something so damn simple biting me on the butt, but your video effort was well worth it. Thanks.
Happy to help, thanks for checking out the video~
I REALLY LOVE THE APPROACH AND DELIVERY IN PRESENTING YOUR CONTENT AND IS VERY EASY TO UNDERSTAND WHILE REASON AND DONE WITH NO MUSS OR FUSS WITH HIGH TREASURABILITY TO THOSE WHO PUT INTO ACTION. MANY THANKS AND BLESS YOU FROM BAD HAND, WEAK KNEED, AND SOLE REMAINING TO OLD FIXER UPPER AND ONLY KNOW WHAT MY DAD TAUGHT ME AND WATCHING MY GUARDIAN FATHER WHO WATCHES OVER ME NOW FOR MY DAD AND IS THE ONLY PLUMBER MY DAD WOULD USE WHEN NEEDED DONE AND NOW IS UP IN AGE TOO!
Great job sir! You've revealed your personal knowledge and high standards with your excellent video.
Thank you kindly!
I’m training currently for maintenance in an apartment complex this definitely gives me some knowledge thank you 👍
Use it on any threaded seal connection. Drain pvc, drain brass, drain copper, iron natrural gas, etc. If its threaded...use some pipe thread sealant. Its not for sealing, its for anti-galling of threaded connections. Remember that. But that means sometimes you need it to get something tight enough to not leak. And without it you may have threads galling and not allowing full seating of your connection.
Thanks for the tips. I put in a new electric water heater and your videos were a great resource. I used Megaoc for the first time in combination with the teflon tape. Not a leak when I was finished.
Glad to help
Just good ole common sense old school plumbing wisdom! Thank you!
Glad to help, thank for checking out the video!
Thanks so much for making this video! It was really helpful, clear, and detailed. Perfect for beginners like me.
Thank You for checking out the video! I appreciate it...Regards, Bob.
Great Video! I agree with you 100% use both Teflon and Dope! I’ve had multiple jobs with a small leak when my guys have just used one. Nothing more frustrating than to redo a job when it could have been solved with both
Disagree with covering the first thread with Teflon tape. Keep the first thread clean for an easy start. I agree with you and also do not run the tape all the way up the thread, it's just a waste of tape as those threads will never enter the joint. The other reason for not cover the first thread is any tape hanging over the first thread and end of the pipe WILL break loose and enter the piping system. In some cases this might not be a problem but in others you never know where it might travel to. Solenoid valves in dishwashers or ice makers are two examples where you don't want fragments of tape to be.
Yep. Just dug up my gas line and every single joint had excess tape hanging inside the pipe.
It seems all sealants are good
You only tried 3, didn't actually pressure test any of them for a comparison test. You didn't try any UK available or oatey products. Please do a better video, also why didn't you bother putting the tape on properly.
Tape is literally only to make the threads go together smooth 😅
@@HambuglarOG not true. It takes up space between the threads.
Definitely learned from you about the pipe thread sealants. I am replacing a PRV. I put Teflon tape on the threads. The PRV is a brass fitting. The locknuts are brass from existing hardware on collar/tailpiece assembly. The bottom locknut seals. The top locknut is not completely flush, so the locknut does not bottom out correctly. Never used to paste before, but I am going to try it. If it works per a man of your experience, this is going to be a fun installation. This problem had me stumped. I lacked insight on the solution. It's a residential pressure reducing valve so I will set the psi at 60--65, but first I got to make sure the connections are water tight seal. Looking forward to plumbing.
I've been plumbing for 12 years, in Az, and you pretty much, covered it all. Great video 👍
Thank You Sandro, much appreciated! Bob
Are you anywhere near Kingman Arizona
@@paulcampbellsr.9818 he"s in NYC
@@deadmanswife3625 Paul is not in NYC don't know where you got that info. But either way I got it fixed
@@paulcampbellsr.9818 you were asking where bobsplumbing is?
Or where sandra is ?
Sorry I thought you were asking about the guy who is doing the videos
Very good video. One comment though. I am a retired instrument technician from a nuclear power plant. We stopped using teflon tape in the plant due to technicians installing teflon tape to the very end of the threads (the narrow end). For a while we could use pipe dope only. Because the threads are tapered, the first and / or second thread do very little in the sealing process. What we saw occurring was pieces of the teflon from the narrow end would become loose and go into the system (water, steam, whatever system it was on) and clog something down the line. We call it foreign material in a nuke. Not good for the plant.
I noticed in your video you like to go to the very end and even some of the tape was over the end of the pipe somewhat. That was something we had to be very careful not to do and I follow the same practice when I do any plumbing work.
Another note. I was watching your video because I am installing a water system in my house. It uses plastic fittings (male and female) and I am using brass fittings to join the house to the new water system. I encountered some leaking problems and was wondering if you have any thoughts on sealing those kind of unions. Thanks, Jerry
On brass to plastic connections as a rule on waste lines (low or no pressure), I'll use a good quality Teflon and the Mega Lock joint compound together. On pressurized water line's I'llsubstitute the Blue Block instead Mega Lock. In extreme conditions, I use the spool lampwick and Blue Block.
Great explanation on the different applications. You answered my specific question perfectly. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Bob
When we get through this Virus situation, people are going to have a new appreciation for the Journeyman service men and women in this country! God bless all the guys who keep this country up and going , plumber, electrician, 𝐇𝐕𝐀𝐂, long haul trucker, under appreciated for decades! Need good healthcare that doesn’t cost a fortune or has such high deductible people live with their health problems for years, until they are dangerously sick!!!
Thank you! Stay Safe! Bob.
Worked like a charm! Bought the better Teflon tape and used some Megalock from Home Depot...no more leaks! Thanks for a great video.
Fantastic!
Great video...easy to understand..no loud music...thanks
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the video. Well done. As a rookie I really appreciate the explanations why and when rather than just do it my way.
I try my best John, trying to perfect this video stuff,LOL! Thanks for checking out the video,Bob.
Thank you for making this video, answered all my questions. Very un-boring and helpful :)
Bob great video ...you speak clearly and slow enough for guy who is very new to plumbing ...looking forward to running more of your Happy Plumbing Videos!
Thank You, Dale, I appreciate that!
Thanks for the video. I only have to put a fitting on the end of hose with brass fittings on the ends, but now I know what to use. Hopefully the teflon will keep it from getting corroded together too.
Perfect explanation, so much to learn. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks bro. I liked and subscribed. Your video was very informative I am currently doing a lot of plumbing around the house and I am trying to soak up all the knowledge I can
Thanks for the sub! Glad I could help.
Thank you for the great video and info, i have to seal a tank at suction line that is leaking and the Austrian company that built it used hemp sealant but is there another way to seal this joint if i do not have hemp?
Glad it helped
I'm a plumber for the port of Oakland and I also use the tape and pipe dope combo and it never fails!!! Love the videos keep'em coming.👍👍👍
Emmanuel Lopez Thank you Emmanuel, much appreciated . Thanks for checking out the video. Regards, Bob.
Excellent video. Thanks for the detailed explanations. I wrestled with leaks installing an outdoor water spigot. Teflon tape alone didn't cut it. I ended up using Teflon tape and Real-Tuff Thread Sealant. Totally did the trick. Thanks much!
Thank Goodness Yo-yo Patrick for checking out the video! Regards, Bob.
Best video I watched so far, answered all my questions
Much appreciated! Bob.
Loctite 545 is my go to for air and gas. Never had a leak and still using the same old bottle from 10 years ago.
Beginner here, though I have replaced kitchen sink faucets. I'm about to tackle replacing my bath/shower faucet and this helped a lot! I did see thread hanging off the older pipes and was wondering what it was. Now I know!
Thanks so much! You took my small little job too another level. Simply I have to put a 90 Into my gas cook top. I was just going to use the gas teflon tape. I have two elbows to Install, going out to buy pipe dope. You rock!
Thank you, Bob,
Spot-on terrific info and also a nice walk down memory lane. I'm 63 and my father (420 Steamfitters) started me off with Pro Dope and lamp wick, which is still nice for some old hot-water radiator repairs! Also, great review of different type products and specific applications which is more of what is important instead of debating (as I often see) whether Hercules, Rectorseal, Blue Monster, etc. is the best?! All of the aforementioned companies make terrific products, but knowing how to use those products is the key! Passing this on to friends....
Cheers
Thank you John! Regards, Bob
Thanks Bob for a great video! What are your thoughts on anaerobic sealants and how long do you have to wait before turning on the gas after using an anaerobic sealant ie to allow it to cure properly etc
When working with low pressure gas or drainage fittings I'll turn it on immediately, if I have a questionable joint on a water line I may wait a few hours before turning it back on. For the most part in everyday situations, everything goes live immediately.
This video is so info packed.
First time viewer. Bob, you are one of the best! It's nice to see a pro do the teaching. I'll be using your tricks going forward :) Happy New Year bud!!!
Thank You Sir! Happy New Year to you and your family! Bob.
I put a quick connect on a well pressure tank and need to know the best way to clean and make a good seal. this is the second time using this quick connect. It's 1 years old. Thanks
Can you send me a photo? info@robertsessaplumbing.com
Thanks! I think I now know why my 1.25 to 1. inch reducer is leaking/dripping on my pressure tank diy hook up. I over-torqued it and used only metal pipe dope. I will get a new reducer and use teflon with teflon sealant, and not over-torque.
Yes, threads are imperfect, if you screw something (especially larger things) there is a bit of loose wiggle. Fine thread, naturally less. Good video, more to it than I thought.
Gey man love the video. What's your opinion on rector seal T2 or 5 doft set? Thats what I use exclusively and hercules teflon. Use rector seal for everything
Rectorseal is good product, and if it works for you, use! It comes down to personal preference and what gets the job done! Regards, Bob.
Excellent video, and one that even a woman can understand--now I know how to fix that leaky pipe in my well pit. Thank you!
Thank you! For checking it out. Regards, Bob
Did you fix it?
I like real tuff over Megalock but like you said it is difficult to clean for sure, almost like a white tar if that makes any sense. I’m probably using way to much. I think they lubricate more than they seal imo making it easier to tighten the fittings and also makes loosening in the future much much easier.
Thanks! Good info, other than the part where you to threaded the nipple through the back side of the die when explaining taper around 2:00. But why did it turn in so far by hand on the wrong side of the taper?? Idk
What do you use for stainless steel fittings that keeps them from galling together forever ??? Nice video Sir.
Mega-Loc is a good choice in my opinion. Seals great and breaks apart easily! Thanks for the visit, Bob.
Will this take 1200 F heat ??? I will be putting the 316 and 304 SS mix pipe inside my woodstove. This will be the secondary burn part of the stove. The pipe I am using are 3M pressure grade. All overkill but the price was right so that is what I used Bob. Thanks for your time Sir. vf@@BobsPlumbingVideos
Thank you for blue block
Great video, thanks for sharing! But still have a question...
I have a shower head arm that is a little loose when oriented in the correct direction. If I try to make one more revolution the arm gets so tight it only makes it 3/4 of the way around.
Wondering what I can do to ensure that there is no leak since this is a remodel and there is no way to see if there is a slight drip inside the wall
In a situation like that, I'll remove the arm and double down on the amount of Teflon. Instead of 5 or 6 times around I'll go 10 or 12 times around. It will usually make up the difference and you won't have to make that final rotation.
FWIW: re 4:08 The "tapered pipe thread" is designed to provide excellent mechanical rigidity & good seal despite inconsistent tap & die 'sizes', but the abrupt end & reversal of the tapping motion, provides a fractured 'seam' across the threads where the cutting edges of the tool stopped. That little step, is where the 'leak' can occur. Normally, if the fitting is well tightened, the metal will be slightly stretched & the 'seam' will also be smooshed smooth enough to be gas tight. If you look, you can easily see, and sometimes you can feel the 90 or 120 degree 'click' as the seams pass each other.
Do you need to let the blue block dry before pressuring a system? Or any other pipe thread sealants for that matter
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
Great information video.
Q. What about PVC threaded mixed with metal threaded fittings? I've had water lines that were being used for well house, sprinkler and had mixed success. I was taught as you mentioned cleaning the threads with a brush first but even had leaks. I have used T. tape, T. tape with joint compound and still have a few issues now and then. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks for sharing.
I would use the spool lamp-wick (Minimal) in between the threads. Followed by Teflon, then Mega-Loc joint compound.
What did you decide to use? Have a few 1" male PVC to 1" galv female.
I hate plastic to metal threads....teflon and paste.....I know you're not supposed to do it but that's the only time I'd put a little paste on the internal threads of the steel fitting
Hey Bob. Great video. I know you don't need tape or dope on compression fittings (brass ferrules or rubber o-rings), but I like to put some tape on the threads because it seems to help control corrosion making it easier to take apart later if needed.
I'll use Teflon on pipe threads in combination with pipe joint compound. I tend not to use it on compression or flare fittings but will lubricate the threads with pipe joint compound to make up the nuts easily.
BobsPlumbingVideos OK. Thanks.
Thank you for this video. I will be installing a new boiler using black pipe for the supply and return headers. Your video was a great help in making sure I seal the joints correctly. Very well done.
I'm very happy to help, thank you for checking out the video, Bob.
Hi there, awesome video. I am installing a diesel slip tank in my pickup. I assume I should use a thread sealant with PTFE? I have a under tonneau cover slip tank therefore the pump will be below the highest level of diesel fuel, thus putting a lot of pressure on the pump connection where it screws into the NPT on the slip tank. Should I use teflon tape and thread sealant or just thread sealant with PTFE?
I would use Teflon then Blue Block thread sealant. Pretty much bullet proof!
They make a special PTFE for use with gasoline/oil automotive uses....should be all you need
Thanks for sharing the benefit of your experience.
My pleasure!
Hi, thank you for this video. could you please comment on what you think about shark bite products. If they are safe to use for pipe fittings.Thank you.
ruclips.net/video/CuqEibmPVRE/видео.html
Excellent video! Can you give me any advice on what I should use with fittings that go into a steam generator? I picked up a bunch of these Hoffman steamers that I need to rebuild, and I've never worked with steamers before. Also, while taking these things apart I notice a lot of the fittings are corroded to hell and back. I actually had one of the nipples snap in half while trying to take it out of the vessel! I don't want these things to corrode again if I can help it, so any advice on how to prevent that in the future? Sorry if these are all basic questions; this is all rather new to me!
I would most likely use a combination of either the old style spool lamp-wick or blue monster or mega teflon tape and the blue block sealant. I find the Blue block the most reliable sealant when working with older corroded fittings. And if possible clean out your fitting with a sharp pipe tap to insure a good fit between the male and female fittings.
I started using the black tape in combination with pipe dope it works awesome and nothing ever leaks.
New subscribe. Really helpful discussion. The only real question I was left with is what is typical set up time.
I use everyone of these products, and typically continue use of water and or waste immediately. Exception would be possibly with a real bad thread using Blue-Block, I might wait 24 hrs if that's at all possible. Most times it's not!
Love blue block for steam and gas, there is another product from Hercules that I use for gas is Grip (black) it works great as well.
Grip was the original leak stopper! Great product, messy also!
Excellent detailed educating video on sealing pipes. Thank you!!!
Thank you, Sir! Regards, Bob.
Thanks Bob for a great video!
Which pipe dope would you use for heating element threads in a steam boiler tank application? Does boiler/steam app fall in the category of gas so use blue block? Looking forward to your opinion. Many thanks.
Blue Block is my "No Callback Bulletproof" choice! Can't go wrong with it, just don't get it on you or your tools, or Lacquer Thinner to the rescue!
@@BobsPlumbingVideos
1) just so I fully understand, by 'blue block', do you mean :
- 'blue Teflon tape + BLOCK pipe dope'" ?
or
- BLOCK pipe dope'" only will work fine?
2) Lastly, I assume using BLOCK is no problem should the water boiler heating element ever need replacing (unscrew threads again in future if needed) ?
Thx .
With threaded brass fittings, leave ~2.5 threads showing on the male connection as a general guide to avoid over-tightening the softer brass. Brass threads can warp, crush or distort if over-tightened.
If you don't make the brass scream, it's not tight enough.
Does the MegaLock sealant eventually dry? Do you let it dry before turning on the water? Thanks! great video.
No, you can turn on the water immediately!
Great video for the next generation Bob, I'm sure your dad is proud .
Pat LI NY
Thank you Pat, much appreciated! Regards, Bob.
Nice video!! So, what size under ground plastic gas line should I use to service a 25000btu unit about 60' run. In the house I've got 26' of 1 1/4 to first appliance, and about 35' servicing furnace, water, stove and washing machine. The new drop will be 7' of 3/4" to under ground connection.
Thank you in advance.
What about the red semi hard stuff that comes on air tool fittings from brands like husky? That stuff works so well and cleans up great. Can't find something similar!
Hey, what about on steam pipes? All the same ideas? Blue block sounds like it would work well! I’ll have to research that.
use the teflon paste dope or you'll never get it apart for a repair down the line
My question is when installing a threaded PVC adapter to a Brass thread (PRV) for a sprinkler system should you use teflon tape only or teflon tape and teflon Thread Sealant like Christy's Ultra Seal T-10,000?
I would use a good quality tape like Blue Monster w/ a thread sealant like Hercules Mega-Loc or Real-Tuff pipe joint compound.
I've used the BlueMonster Gas Teflon Tape or the Gas Rated Yellow Teflon Tape for years with gas fittings, especially on 2" or ST90's
Dear Bob great how to as always. Do you have any family from Sessa Cilento in Italy?
I do not know? I was born in the U.S.A. As were my parents. My mother’s family is Naples/Sicily and my fathers family is Sorrento. Regards, Bob.
Good information, enjoy your videos
Thanks for watching!
Do you have a video or, know of a video that shows how to connect a PVC schd 40 female or male adapter to an elbow on metal pipe?
Awesome video, Bob. Thanks so much.
When I screw schd 40 pvc on or into metal pipe I generally use teflon tape followed by Blue Block or Grip. Either or will work.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos and only to prevent abrassion on the plastic part and prevent sticking, so not as much as metal-to-metal, right?
BTW, one can really see you know your stuff. On the other hand I like the looks of neatly wound teflon tape sticking out - it looks clean and done to me when checking later (but only on ugly plastic or metal hidden joints, not the fancy visible shiny pipes).
Thanks, I believe you solved my problem.
Thanks for the video. I need to unscrew pipes that have pipe dope applied to them. How can I safely remove copper water supply lines attached with pipe dope before replacing them with braided water supply lines? Is there a specific technique to use with copper lines, water supply lines, and PVC?
Most important is to hold back on the fitting you're attempting to remove the pipe from. Remove counter clockwise and hold back in a clockwise position.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks, Bob. I'll make sure to do so. So, it should unscrew without a need for vinegar or wd-40 to dissolve the pipe dope/pipe joint compound?
One final question is if you think it's wise to install a Delta faucet with PEX water supply tubing. I was hoping for braided supply lines but found out Delta only uses PEX tubing on this item. I would rather not cut it and risk adjoining the ferrules incorrectly. Is it okay to loop the PEX tubing once before attaching it to the water supply valves? Or should I consider finding another faucet that has braided supply lines that can be looped?
slightly heat them with a butane torch just be careful not to light a fire
Blue block with teflon tape works in both new and old pipes because the new ones come with all kind of impurities also, you don't want to take any risk. Of course for the gas pipes only blue block on the male thread.
Great vid. All the questions answered...covered everything. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Used Teflon tape first, then rectaseal, liked the smell of the pipe dope, but very rare if never leaked in my years of plumbing heating . The problem with Teflon and dope with Teflon, oil pump mfgs. Advise against Teflon, I personally saw a oil pump leak oil from a hanging furnace that the installer used plain Teflon tape. On water the combos can’t be beat. Very good video.
Pat Cupolo Thanks Pat, appreciate it!
Love the Megalock, discovered it by accident at Home Depot, just using it for water fittings around the house. Back in the late 60's/early 70's I worked for a gas utility, they exclusively used the old yellow Rectorseal. No teflon in it in those days. I always felt it just lubricated the joints, with high pressure mains and gas at 75 or so PSI, how could compound hold back the gas, it's really the compression of the pipe and fitting. We always called it pipe dope, never heard anyone call it compound.
Thank you so much lots of good ideas appreciate everything you did
You are so welcome!
GOOD VIDEO FELLOW NY, THE BLUE COMPOUND ACTS TO PREVENT RUST?
I have always used Megaloc but want to try a new product just for fun. Would you say the standard Blue Monster thread sealant or the newer Blue Monster with PTFE pipe thread sealant which is white rather than blue would be better? Thanks for the awesome video!
Thanks for checking out the video, I would say the standard Blue Monster w/ Teflon tape will get the job done. I currently still use the Megaloc w/ Teflon. I wanted to love Real-Tuff which is white, but it's to messy I.M.H.O!
I learned a ton watching this and love your attention to aesthetics and detail - thanks for a great post. On different note, your post made me think how fun it would be as a layperson to be at a convention and listen to the debates you guys must have about stuff like the myriad personal styles of joinery and applying teflon tape. Love it.
Thank you Zach, very much appreciated! Bob
Great video, gives a lot of important information for novices like me . Don’t edit down the length.
I learned with lamp wick and pro dope in 1998. I had an old school plumbing instructor. Still my preferred method. I've used mega lock here and there. With the tape I learned to put the dope on first then the tape over it. Real Touff I mainly used for fire sprinkler systems. Blue block makes a mess, it's like paint and gets everywhere. I didn't do much gas piping, but I used it exclusively for oil, from the tank piping, oil filter, firomattic valves, up to the burner.
started out as a maintenance mechanic in the early 80's never saw it in threads.....would wrap leaky condensate fittings with new mop strings until we could shut down
Thanks Bob! You saved my sanity.
You're welcome!
Rectorseal Blackjack #21 is hard to beat.... Gasoila is really good as well, same for Whitlam Blue Magic.....
This is the best video I have seen on this subject! Is is best just to use Blue Block on everything just to be safe? Keep up the great content, I'm subbed!
I use Blue Block on all gas work and problem waste and water leaks. It can get messy, I'm confident using Mega-Loc as my everyday go-to thread sealant. Thanks for checking out the video! Regards, Bob.
question about the Blue Block. Will the fittings unscrew or does it permanently bond the threads to where they are really hard to unscrew again?
Very informative video! Helped me a lot to understand how I'll be installing equipment into a new pilot unit for my research project. Thank you Bob!
You're very welcome!
Will it be tough to remove the fitting in the future if I use Blue block?
Not at all, it's a soft set sealant.
Good video. Thx. The devil is always in the details for us weekend warriors and you helped fill in a lot of them. I'm on the West Coast but if I were in NYC and got into trouble I would definitely call you to come out.
Thank you Joe! Regards, Bob.
I'm fitting a new air regulator onto an air compressor and struggling to get it air tight. Both threads are straight but there is a locking nut on the male thread of the regulator. I've tried pipe dope and tape but it still leaked a little. Do I just need to use more, or try a hard setting thread lock instead?
Andrew Faulding I would would try using Teflon and either the Hercules Blue Block or Grip. Wear gloves, use it sparingly give it 24 hrs to set up.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks Bob!
Dope then tape. Fills in the threads better and comes out much cleaner. I'm a Fire Sprinkler Fitter and I usually do about 5 wraps. We use either Teflon dope or C5A copper anti cease along with Teflon tape
The age old trade argument. Lol.
Thanks for the advice! I only put Teflon tape on a new kitchen sink shut off valve and it wouldn't stop leaking. I'm going to get some sealant tonight!
Good Luck!
BobsPlumbingVideos it worked like a charm
Did you use 4-5 wraps? But i know the old pastes and the new pastes work better. Just messy. I’ve seen pros use both wrap and paste together.
When I worked with my dad back in the late 60s Pro dope compound a lamp wick was used for everything
Only thing to use back in the good old days 👍
What’s up Bob.? There was an old pipe sealant you mentioned. I’m not sure if it was this video or another video.! It was in a red container and sometime you would have to heat up the pipe in order to loosen it.! Do you know what pipe sealant I’m talking about.?
When I changed over from galvanised pipes to copper tubing 35 years ago, I installed a permanent pressure gauge on the cold water line in basement laundry. Many older homes in Vancouver, B.C. Canada where I live do not have a pressure regulator valve. The typical pressure in my neighbourhood was about 80 psi, dropping somewhat in the summer. A few weeks ago it was going up as high as 120 psi, so I decided to install a Watt pressure regulator on the 3/4 copper entry. My first two attempts with teflon tape only on a tapered brass fitting dripped, and on my third try with even more tape it still leaked, and now a union on the line was dripping. I found your video, bought the Canadian MegaLoc, which has English and French instructions, followed your directions and both connections are completely dry. What I really noticed as I torqued with the MegaLoc and teflon combo, was how smooth and easily it tightened compared to teflon only. Pressure is now set at 60 psi. Sure glad I found your video. Angus.
I’m glad you found my video also Angus, love helping homeowners like yourself. Regards and thanks again...Bob