The ripples you created with this video are still touching others! Thank you Eli. With your help, I just did my '06 e61 530xi. 53k and the struts were blown and leaking oil on the driveway. Now it drives like new. FOR ANYONE ABOUT TO DO THIS JOB, the info provided here in just 3 minutes fills in all the blanks for an AWD (x-drive). The rest of the videos and blogs on the internet only cover RWD. I found one web tutorial that says it’s for awd, but uses a confusing mix of awd and rwd pictures, and then doesn’t say anything about disconnecting the tie rod, which you must! Here’s my take now that I’ve done it: - first off, understand you will disconnect the bottom of the strut, then the top, contrary to most other how-to’s. - mark the strut top nuts before you loosen them; these holes are eccentric and you need to put them back where they were. - remove two of the strut top nuts, leave one on but loose. - unbolt the caliper and lay it on an upside down kitty litter tub ( ! or drywall mud bucket - genius, Eli). - disconnect the sway bar link and tie rod, and - only on the passenger side - the headlight leveling link on the forward control arm. - remove strut pinch bolt from steering knuckle, leave speed sensor wire and bracket hanging, it’s not necessary to unhook anything. - use chisel as a wedge to spread steering knuckle a little. - the steering knuckle won’t drop just by gravity, you have to really push down on it. Jiggle and push. Jiggle more and push harder. Leaving the rotor on gave me something to push on. - you will never compress these springs enough with a common hook-style tool. They have to be compressed nearly flat. I took mine to my garage guy to change them over. The tool you rent from the parts store won’t do it and I couldn’t see spending $200 for a tool I’d probably only ever use once. - I had to buy an 18mm socket. I’ve worked on VW and Audi all my life and never once needed an 18. Success! The horrible loud THUNK over bumps and manholes and curb cuts is gone now! I spent about $500 on oem sachs parts and about another $100 to have the springs changed over. It took me 3 hours or so over 2 days to get the first strut out, proceeding carefully. I had the second one out in 45 minutes. Had it all back together in under 2 hours. Thank you again!
awesome video especially how you already had all the time wasting nuts and bolts removed. straight to the point. good job my man. i love my xi just a little bit more now. keep up the good work. thanks
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The ripples you created with this video are still touching others! Thank you Eli.
With your help, I just did my '06 e61 530xi. 53k and the struts were blown and leaking oil on the driveway. Now it drives like new.
FOR ANYONE ABOUT TO DO THIS JOB, the info provided here in just 3 minutes fills in all the blanks for an AWD (x-drive). The rest of the videos and blogs on the internet only cover RWD. I found one web tutorial that says it’s for awd, but uses a confusing mix of awd and rwd pictures, and then doesn’t say anything about disconnecting the tie rod, which you must!
Here’s my take now that I’ve done it:
- first off, understand you will disconnect the bottom of the strut, then the top, contrary to most other how-to’s.
- mark the strut top nuts before you loosen them; these holes are eccentric and you need to put them back where they were.
- remove two of the strut top nuts, leave one on but loose.
- unbolt the caliper and lay it on an upside down kitty litter tub ( ! or drywall mud bucket - genius, Eli).
- disconnect the sway bar link and tie rod, and - only on the passenger side - the headlight leveling link on the forward control arm.
- remove strut pinch bolt from steering knuckle, leave speed sensor wire and bracket hanging, it’s not necessary to unhook anything.
- use chisel as a wedge to spread steering knuckle a little.
- the steering knuckle won’t drop just by gravity, you have to really push down on it. Jiggle and push. Jiggle more and push harder. Leaving the rotor on gave me something to push on.
- you will never compress these springs enough with a common hook-style tool. They have to be compressed nearly flat. I took mine to my garage guy to change them over. The tool you rent from the parts store won’t do it and I couldn’t see spending $200 for a tool I’d probably only ever use once.
- I had to buy an 18mm socket. I’ve worked on VW and Audi all my life and never once needed an 18.
Success! The horrible loud THUNK over bumps and manholes and curb cuts is gone now! I spent about $500 on oem sachs parts and about another $100 to have the springs changed over. It took me 3 hours or so over 2 days to get the first strut out, proceeding carefully. I had the second one out in 45 minutes. Had it all back together in under 2 hours. Thank you again!
No problem. You're welcome
awesome video especially how you already had all the time wasting nuts and bolts removed. straight to the point. good job my man. i love my xi just a little bit more now. keep up the good work. thanks
Good job 👍
Did you disconnect the lower control arm ?
No. I didn't have to do that
@@giabe8765 Great . . . thanks
Can front struts from non xi model fit ?
I think they should
NO
What about replacement?!?!?
Just do the reverse
Damn Man! This is very poor video! Missing a lot of details...after you removed all...well! How long it takes? Etc....What's wrong with you??