Mini TL (TSX!) Big Brakes, Suspension and More
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2022
- TSX Brakes and Suspension Upgrade
By Aaron Gaghagen and Brian Gillespie
Back in January 2022, Brian's new-to-him TSX was smashed and the damage was pretty bad, totaled. Some times the universe works in mysterious ways. As he looked for a replacement Brian found a smoking deal on a newer first gen TSX and then he scored another silver TSX. Now instead of one project TSX we have two, possibly three if we can pull the body on our smashed TSX!
That brings us to this TSX dubbed Mini TL. It's running great, but it is stock and we don't really do stock around here. So, first up on the modification agenda are the the suspension and brakes.
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VTEC Academy videos are for educational and entertainment purposes. We can not guarantee the modifications performed in the video are legal in your locality. Do not do any modifications to your vehicle that will void your warranty or in any way violate your local laws. We assume no liability for property damage or injury as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use the information provided at your own risk. 
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Love the TSX content. Keep'em coming!
More to come!
Big thumbs up for the CL9 content. THE best Honda platform.
This video is IMMENSELY helpful to clear some of the mysteries with the FB kit. Such as torque guidelines for the aluminum spacer. And what orientation to put the hub centering ring on. Hearing this coming from the source (Brian H) is awesome
Currwntly doing the exact same mods to my 06 civic , Excited to follow this build !
I’m so happy that you are doing a tsx video!!!
These are all things I’m going through on mine as we speak!!
👍👍👍
Love the TSX Content Keep it coming!!
Looking forward to getting my fastbrakes + rl advics caliper kit installed on my ILX. Just need to get to it, thanks for the video, looking forward to the series.
I love that wheel set up 🔥❤️‼️
These look so good in white. The meatier tires and a spacer will really round it out too, nice work!
I am loving the edits! VTEC Academy, keeping it real while schooling you.
😂 Keeping it 💯
Great looking brakes and a great looking car. Win win!
9:50 Ive seen that with a number of brake pads. Difference between a good mechanic and a bad one. Noticing that little detail. That cheap mechanic may do it for 1/4 of the price but when your pad gets stuck and wears down one side super fast and you are replacing them again in 1-2000 miles, youll be wishing you paid the other guy a bit more to do it once, the right way.
Great job guys
Just bought a 05 TSX 6spd on Yonaka coils. Needs some work but it’s a great car for the money! All the windows roll down if you stick the key in the door and hold it left or right!
Oh yes!! Vtec content 💙
Hell yeah, thanks for watching!
looks real good! id love that BBK on mine
nice! I think I saw my future k20 in the background 😂
When you do the Manual swap please please please show everything step by step. I've got all the parts ready to go. I just want to make sure I put the CMC in the right place the clutch pedal correctly. And see how you reinforce the firewall
The brakefast of champions!
That car looks so good with that little drop 🔥🤩🤩🔥 I want Tein Flex Z for my tsx soo bad
I have the same 5zigens. They just look so good on the tsx
love this content! I am about to install some BC coilovers and some new shoes on my 18' TLX soon! J all day!
looks a lot better than before
100 percent!
I know of a guy does motor mounts. Great video Brian.
Love that kit on my Accord! Maybe one day I'll see you out at musselman and we can scoot around some
Looking good
Thank you!!!
Subscribed for the TSX content
Thanks!!
+1
Glad to see the TSX getting some love.
Man she looks good. 😍 I love your Videos 💯
I appreciate it
I noticed I got a bad engine mount, but I know a guy 😂😂😂😂😂
He thinks he's gonna get the hook up too, I bet! LOL
I’m thinking about buying one
Anyone happen to have the link or info on where to find said big brake kit in video? Thanks in advance.
Love the idea of more braking power on the TSX. I myself run StopTech lines, upgraded pads, stock diameter Powerstop Rotors and Legend II dual piston calipers. I know my pads use lots of that rotor surface. Fits under all wheels. Of course my budget is a bit different to yours, so I cringed a bit at the price of this Fastbrakes kit. It quite looks the part, but I'm not sure if I like that extra 3 lbs of bigger rotor on each corner.
*Looking forward to more content including the much AWAITED MANUAL SWAP! 🚗💨
The heavier rotor with increase in thermal mass should help after the modified engine goes in.
Looks great except you put the rotors on the wrong side
Yeah we changed them out.
22:38 good luck getting that to happen anywhere salt is used on roads in the winter. Here in Vermont, we don't even touch them usually on anything older than 5 years. If it is only off by .5 degrees or less, no touchy!!!!
Winter sucks!
Haha lol I know a guy for d motor mount! Best hook up ever I say!
😂 😂😂🤷🏽♂️
I was going to ask if it was a six speed but I already know its 5AT because I can see the range sensor behind the wheel :) Just had to replace mine, lol.
Im really looking forward to more tsx videos, any coming by any chance?
Thanks for watching! Yes, there will be more TSX videos, but it'll be a bit since the viewers voted on getting the K24 Fit bumped up the line.
So, Thank you…I looked at that kit forever and ended up grabbing a 2 piece racing brake rotor and put SS lines. This might be a great side project as I have to replace my ground control too mounts, as that was the coilover kit I selected 10 years ago. Looks like you selected teins, but I didn’t want the drop and ground control gave my koni warranty.
Also, a rear camber kit is pretty cheap and would 100% make the rear easier
Do you need to change your master cylinder on the fast brakes kit to accommodate for it being a 4 pot now? Such as when you’re upgrading to the TL type s Brembo?
The TSX is known as the Honda Accord in Europe!
"Accord euro R" pretty much the same car but the wheebsae is 1" wider and sway bars re stiffer on the tsx vs usdm accord
TSX 😍
It’s a good one!
#23:50 Nice EP3 Si in the back. Thinking of upgrading my suspension for my EP3 Si. What would you recommend? I looking for street/comfort ride.
I’ve had those Jenky caliper brackets snap in half on the track. Never again
I like the contest of the channel, can you tell me the specs of both of the wheels on the car, thanks
Man iam waiting on how to do the swap on this car since I have an auto one and been thinking of swapping it
What's your rpf1 rim measurements? I have a 03 accord that would look great on
For those who want the best and also affordable big brake setup for this generation TSX, please read below. I decided to make this post here, and share my findings, because I have a ton of respect for the guys at VTEC Academy, and for the viewers who tune in, who have a knack for tuning and modding, but also want to save money, because that is what Honda is all about. This may take a few replies, and I do plan on sharing my findings on the TSX forum one day (w/ pictures), despite my disdain for like 80% of people on car forums. *heh*
By far, the best and most affordable upgrade would be to use the 2016+ Acura ILX front and rear brake calipers and rotors. Now, whether you buy OEM, or an Auto store brand, or find a junkyard set (like me), you are still going to save big money. The refreshed ILX model has the same NISSIN floating caliper that the TSX has (albeit slightly bigger) to house a comparatively sized brake pad similar to the 04-08 Acura TL type S brembo package (more on this package later). Now, it's not just the ILX, but we will use it for demonstration purposes. It's also the 2013-2018 RDX models. Some newer Accord's (2016-2017), CRV's, and Civic's. But, so you don't get confused, just stick to the 2016+ ILX, because it is similar to the TSX in more ways visually. The 2016+ refreshed ILX uses a 311.5mm rotor, 47.2mm height, 25mm thickness, at a very lightweight 16.5lbs. It also has the Honda 5x114.3 bolt pattern, with the 64.1mm hub and will fit up perfectly with your TSX. The newly designed upgraded Nissin floating caliper houses a brake pad that is 148.8mm in Length and 62mm Height, which in other words, is as big as the 04-08 TL Type-S Brembo caliper's pads. Part number: P28096N if you want to use Brembo brake pads for the ILX's Nissin caliper. I like to use Brembo's USA website, because they show schematics of all their rotors and pads, so you can see the measurements. There are also some other sites you can use for comparing Honda/Acura measurements, if you want to go down the rabbit hole, and find a different setup than mine, just keep in mind it needs to be 64.1mm hub and 5x114.3 bolt pattern (for ease and comfort). 1. allrotors.com 2. ebay.com (search Honda/Acura 310 and up mm rotors) 3. wheel-size.com (search any honda/acura car to see offset range and Rim Sizes, bore sizes, thread sizes, bolt patterns, etc.) 4. hondanews.com & acuranews.com (search make and model specifications for press release). If you find a better setup than me, then congrats, you are now crowned honorary engineer.
To use the ILX caliper on the TSX knuckle, you will have to use (2) zinc washers (one per spindle hole) to space the caliper 2.5mm out from the knuckle to clear the new ILX rotors. You will also have to purchase custom m12x1.25 bolts that are 30mm in length (eBay), because the stock caliper bracket bolt is only 22mm in length (it's actually undersized from the factory, and uses like 6 threads, which is why this upgrade is not only better, but safer.
Benefits: 1. You are upgrading from 300mm rotors to 311mm and upgrading the size of your brake pads.
2. Using the ILX rotors, you are saving about 2 pounds per front rotor from the Stock TSX. Back in the day the rotors were designed for touring and 15+ years of life, which is why they were 28mm thick vs. the new norm of 25mm thickness. You are saving 1 pound per rotor from the 04-08 Acura TL Type S rotors (which you could use with the TSX and Nissin caliper, but just remember, you'll need to space the caliper out 2.5mm to compensate for the decreased thickness of the rotor which also happens to be 25mm). Because of technology advancements, the ILX rotor (and other make/models) are not only taller and larger in circumference than the TL Type S rotor, same thickness, but 1 pound lighter. You combine this upgrade with aluminum lug nuts, and you are looking at saving 3-4 pounds per wheel! Rotational mass savings, yet still factory strong. Find a lighter wheel and tire setup, and you can get up to 8-10lbs per wheel in rotational mass savings. Cool, huh?
3. Being that it is a Nissin floating caliper design, it can withstand what is called rotor "runout" better than a non floating caliper. Tuners usually want the aesthetics of a non floating mounted big brake caliper, but Nissin is more than capable for the track. It's on the first generation NSX after all...and many other fast cars.
4. You can clear factory wheels (17x7J)!!! This is huge. Aesthetically, if you want to keep that OEM flush look of your wheels, and you want a "street car" look, and haven't budgeted money for new wheels yet. Everyone wants the visual aesthetics of big brake kits, but haven't factored in the look of a wider wheel staggered look, or the cost, and so it's worth mentioning beforehand.
5. No brackets. Think of limbs and branches on a tree, what is safer? (Answer: whatever is closer to the trunk). Brackets are indeed safe, after all, the OEM caliper bracket bolt is a mere 22mm in length, and the Nissin caliper bracket itself has but a few threads, but if push comes to shove, no brackets and direct bolt on to the knuckle is indeed safer than brackets. I won't bore you with technical terms such as "clamping force" and "shear strength", but will throw that out for the young engineers, so you can search, learn, and apply these principles.
6. No drilling spindle holes to fit m14 bolts (more on that later).
7. No Hub Rings. OEM 64.1mm Honda.
8. The ILX (and other newer model Honda/Acura's) are relatively new. While everyone is hoarding old RL calipers or TL calipers, you can find it in a junkyard easier and don't have to clean them up that much. Just light cleaning and can paint yourself. Brake cleaner, nylon tooth brush, painters tape, hang them up, and spray paint. Use a caliper rated paint, a high heat ceramic clear, and trust me, it will look good. Just be patient and practice beforehand. Mail in services for caliper powder coating is a few hundred bucks, but eh, it's a caliper. Do whatever is in your budget.
9. The rear rotors will be upgraded from 260mm to 282mm. I have not installed the setup yet, but theoretically it should fit up nicely with the ILX rear calipers and pads (although you may have to machine and thread your own recessed bracket). Aluminum flat bar is relatively cheap ($8), but if you are not handy with metal working, then skip the rear caliper upgrade for now until I can test fit/confirm. Can possibly upgrade to a Honda/Acura 305mm rear rotor too, but I am interested in lightweight, not having the biggest rear rotors, and I also have not test fitted, but it could be possible, so throwing that out there.
10. Cost. All said and done, with calipers, rotors, paint, bolts, you can get it done for less than $500. *mic drop*
Afterthought: Before anyone goes and spends x amount of money on a brake upgrade (usually $800+), they must realize that they may not clear their OEM wheels. In the video, he has 17x9 wheels, which is an aftermarket size. That is why he can clear those big brakes. Normally, the lower the offset, the better you can clear big brakes, but keep in mind, every wheel is different, and just as a rule of thumb, you are going to need wheels that are 8 - 9.5 in width. You can use 17's or 18's, but the lower the offset +12, +20, +35, the better (i read somewhere). If your wheels still don't clear, and in a cost saving scenario, you can use up to 8mm of wheel spacers on a factory hub lip, but will also have to budget for extended lug studs, and also open ended aluminum lug nuts. Make sure you use hub centric wheel spacers (64.1) and Honda bolt pattern 5 x 114.3 (Can find affordable, but good quality ones for less than $20). I personally don't use spacers, but for my race setup, I may have to, so I keep them handy. The company I found on eBay is pe-motorwerks. Again, I balance cost with quality.
Second Afterthought: You can source drilled and slotted rotors, or whatever your aesthetic preference. It may even be lighter with all the holes and slots. Just go for a mid grade brand to save money. Avoid cheap brand X and try not to break the bank on brand names unless you can find a deal. I have plenty of name brand stuff, but only if I am saving 30-50% off msrp, or else it can wait, and be put on a wish list.
Now, if you want to build a RACE car, and you want the best/lightest setup, at an AFFORDABLE price. I will reply to this post with the used TL Type-S Brembo package upgrade with the first gen NSX rear rotors for the front of the TSX.
Race car / Track big brake kit:
If it is your heart's desire to have a 4-pot caliper and that big Brembo brake look, you can install it on the TSX a few ways. Am not gonna get into the old Acura RL's w/ Nissan 350z rotors, or Hundai Genesis calipers, because I haven't gone that route, but those are options if you want to search and read about them.
So, the 04-08 TL Type-S caliper is a common swap. We will just call them the "brembo's", for ease. Some people go as far as swapping out the entire TL knuckle and tie-bar to make them fit, but it's just not practical. "Yo, I just got two TL knuckles, and rotors, and calipers from my buddy for $100 bux" you'll read on the forums. That is just unrealistic and doesn't help the majority of people. They are very hard to find in a junkyard (depending on where you live), but that would be your best bet in saving cost. You can source the calipers themselves used on eBay for $220 bucks from time to time, but are usually in the $275-300 range for the pair. Just be mindful that it comes from a reputable seller, because the aluminum threads, that house the bolts, often get stripped out (as these are almost 20 years old). If you get a pair that has weak threads, don't freak out, just try to purchase a thread chaser first, and a tap secondly, (the size is m14x1.50). If you still can't repair the threads, then you will have to find a professional to "helicoil" or "time-sert" it. More wasted $, so just find a good pair the first time.
Side Note: There is a website, and a very skilled Honda guy, called DC5 creations (search online), that will either source and mill the brembo brake calipers for you, (also optional powder coating), or you can send in your used brembo's to have them milled. He is probably having 3-4mm of bracket & thread professionally shaved from the brembo's, and they either use a m14 to m12 (14mm to 12mm) thread reducer inside, or installs an m12 helicoil or timesert inside, so you can fit your factory m12 caliper bolts. He does this so you don't have to drill out your spindle holes to fit the 14mm TL caliper bolts. Spindle and knuckle are terms used interchangeably, so don't get confused. It contains the holes that you mount the caliper too.
Overall, this method may be better to your liking, because the brembo calipers have about 23mm of thread, which is already 9mm more than the Nissin caliper, and are a tad lighter, and use bigger bolts, so shaving 3-4mm is not a big deal. He shaves the calipers, because he utilizes the TL Rotors (25mm width), but now you know from my last post that you could also probably use the ILX rotors, which have a similar width, and are a pound lighter. However, you will still have to find clearance for the calipers when mounting to the knuckle. If you are good at machining, or know a machinist, and find what's called a thread reducer (m14 to m12), you could go this route, without ever touching your spindles, and find the clearance you require. Or you could get the caliper machined, and drill your spindle holes with a 1/2 in bit, and just use the TL 14mm bolts.
Personally, since I have found the ILX upgrade to be sufficient, the only motivation I have to install the brembo's would be to save weight (Don't care bout the aesthetics), which you can do drastically if you use the 1st Gen NSX's rear rotors for the front of the TSX. I prefer the NSX rotors over the S2000 rotors, because the hub bore fits precisely (64.1mm), and is 303mm in diameter vs. 300mm in the S2000 or TSX. Yes, some little 2% bit of your brake pad won't be utilized, but at 14 pounds per rotor, that is in the same weight class of $3000 big brake kits that use carbon 2-piece rotor's for $220, so it's worth the 2% sacrifice. The rear NSX rotor has a width of 23mm, but has the same 2mm tolerance criteria that the other rotors have respective to their size, which means it does not have to be changed until it is at 21mm. The only "catch" is the hat height of the rotor, which is actually not that bad on the TSX. You will have to use (2) m14 zinc washers per mounting hole to space the TL Type-S brembo caliper out towards the rotor 5mm to align center with the NSX rotor. Or you could create a custom machined thin aluminum bracket/spacer that runs along the caliper, and thread the bracket if you'd like, so you have extra threads to create more strength, just make sure you hold it flush against the caliper and run the tap through the caliper first so the threads flow center. (VTEC academy will begin mass production soon :D
Ok, so you found a pair of good TL brembo's for a good price. Now what's next? Skip the sanding and painting part, which you have the option of doing. Or mailing them in to get powder coated (about $200 bucks from a good company website). You'll need to order custom m14x1.50 bolts, with a length of 38-40mm. BoltsandNuts.com (company website) has good ones that are 40mm. If you find ones that are 38mm, even better, but if you just have the 40mm ones, then use (1) m14 zinc washer on the inside of the spindle to the bolt head to space things out flush.
First, you'll need to remove your TSX calipers, the 10mm brake line bolts holding to line the knuckle, and set the calipers on a paint can, or hang them up with a bungee cord. You are just test fitting for now, you are not installing anything until you make sure everything bolts up fine.
You need one of those special rotor removal hammer/screwdrivers, pretty cheap at an auto parts store. Remove your TSX rotors. Rubber mallot comes in handy.
Trim your dust shield to make the brembo's fit flush. Everything left of the spindle bolt holes, and even the little part in the middle. If you hold the caliper up to the knuckle, you can see what you'll have to trim.
Drill out your spindle mounting holes with a 1/2in drill bit to make room for the (m14) 14mm bolt.
After that, it's just installing and mounting. You might need a new TL type-S brake line to fit to the brembo calipers, I think the eyelet is a tad smaller than the Nissin's, but have heard of them fitting up before.
You may need a spacer, depending on your wheels, because we had to push the caliper out 5mm. Another reason why you may want to go the machining route. You'll definitely need extended studs and open ended lug nuts. But depending on how you get it setup, you'll have a little FWD staggered look, will be able to run 255's, or more, if you go turbo or supercharged.
Benefits: Well between the Brembo calipers and NSX rotors, you are saving about 8 pounds per wheel from Stock. That's insane. And you have an aesthetically pleasing big brake caliper. And you got it done for less than $500. Congrats.
Afterthought: If you drill out your TSX spindles with the 1/2 drill bit, and ever need to go back to stock, and utilize an m12 sized bolt, just use a steel bushing with an ID of 12mm or 1/2" and OD of 14mm or 9/16". The length of the spindle hole is about 10mm. You can create your own bushings for less than $10.
Good luck.
Wheel spec and tire spec?
What offset does your wheels need in order to clear this brake setup?
love the fn01rc. edit: my memory fails, I thought they were 05rc, rather than the correct 01rc
Your use of cross drilled rotors is curious. Have they gotten good enough for a daily or no? Years back I tried a set of Brembo cross drilled rotors on a SS class Del Sol and they cracked before long.
Also, does the SY1M Transaxle from a Civic Si/RSX Type S swap into a gen 1 TSX or ILX without needing modification?
I want to put a tsx k24 in my rsx so bad
can you guys make e braket for the rear so i can use 2 piston brembo
What was the wheel spec of both wheels?
What did you set the dampening adjustment at for the ride you like
Does the brake pad bedding procedure apply for race pads? i.e. hawk dtc-60
What are the wheel spec dimensions and offsets?
Hi Brian. I own a 1996 Civic LX 4 dr. I want to convert the rear brakes from drum to disc brakes. I am not sure of the type of conversion bracket, rotors and calipers to buy. Can you offer couple ideas please. Also, what do you recommend for the front? I am thinking of a modestly priced two piston model. Please advise. Thank you from a loyal subscriber.
Nice work guys! Question for Brian at FastBrakes, does the rotor slot direction really matter? I see 99% mounted opposite direction of the way you mounted them here I.E. flip drivers side rotor on passenger side. Installed EBC slotted kit with black coated rotors and green pads have some red "bed in" compound. Drove around slow speed in the neighborhood with slight drag on the brake pedal which put a lot of heat into them but they seem to have bed in fine without issue.🤷 Thankfully no noise, no shudder, and great "bite" out of them.
Went to the store to show support and pick up a shirt or two but no large in stock.
The rotor slot doesn't, but if there is a vane direction on the rotor that matters.
6 speed conversion please:)
Coming!
New wheel specs? Please
Please do a video on converting to manual I’m really interested in making my cl9 manual.
We will eventutally.
Wherr do i order the brake kit????
Fastbrakes aluminum caliper bracket leaves a lot to be desired. I ran their bracket on my TSX for 6 years with RL calipers. I could never get rid of the brake noise. Tried multiple rotors and brake pads. The bracket positions the caliper in a way where there is 3mm of pad hanging off the rotor, which causes the brake noise. The bolt hardware in the kit was mediocre as well, they didn’t engage enough threads on the aluminum bracket.
I’d be interested to see how it works out for you.
You are running a different caliper, so it might work for your application.
Funny. I had the noise issues with the wilwood ones. Ended up switching to the rl calipers with the fatfour customs bracket and have no noise. I know the rotors for the 350z with brembo is slightly bigger then the maxima so you might want to check it out.
@@allenthach9986 I’ve been running the FatFour custom bracket for two years now with the RL caliper. I’m still getting some brake pad hanging off the rotor but I sanded/grinded down the pad and no more noise. I actually have a set of Hyundai Genesis coupe Brembo calipers. I’m going to install once I get the chance. They bolt right up, no special bracket needed. Yeah I went down the rabbit hole of the 12.6” Maxima rotor and 12.9” 350z rotor.
@@goforbroke2 Yeah. I help a friend install the genesis calipers. Those were pretty good too. If anything, I use my rl calipers with ebc 7122 rotors and green stuff pads. Haven’t had a issue yet and the pad are wearing evenly.
Once the zinc wore off the brakes made no more noise, and the pad sits only on the rotor.
Cheap solid bbk is going full TL Type S. Only downside is shimming the back of the rotor about 3mm or more.. but all oem, and the rotor is bigger more aggressive than wilwood. Would’ve fit the theme of this car too, but it all works in the end.
Any thoughts on doing a J series swap to this in the near future?
It is in the plans. I have the engine.
Are the rotors directional?
The info in this video was excellent!
I hope I didn't put mine on wrong,
his look backward to me, too.
I noticed the directional pattern right away,
I also believe mine have R and L in the part numbers.
(I'll go find the boxes and get back to ya.)
The vanes between the discs determine the rotor direction. These were straight so it didn’t matter. The slot directions aren’t critical, but most people would have mounted them the other way.
@@VTECAcademy right on, thanks for the feedback.
Is the rotor not on the correct side of the card? Is it just camera trickery? Typically I think of the slots, spinning forward, would sling dust toward the outside.
They aren't directional.
In for the manual transmission swap.
Coming!
Where are you guys from? Also any suggestion on brand and model of waste gate and BOV for a turbo 06 tsx
Phoenix AZ. Call Full Race and give them your specs. See what they suggest.
When can we see the manual swap? I'm looking to get this also
Coming!
6:20 79 front 54 rear
what ites are those?
How hard is this TSX auto to manual swap? And what trans would you pair with it?
We going to use a first Gen TSX 6-speed. We dont know till we try, but if I had to guess, it will require cutting some holes and adding some wires.
Wheel specs ?
How much of a difference was it from stock shock and strut and tein
Do you mean ride quality, height, handling?
@@VTECAcademy yes I'm sorry i should have been more specific. Yes the ride quality. How did they perform on bumpy roads? Can you notice a difference
During my 8 years of owning a tuned CL9 I have learned that the Engineers were attempting a smoother driving experience than Civics. This however has led them to many difficult and questionable decisions. The OEM car uses a very heavy flywheel due to the increased mass and longer gearing. The ECU compensates between shifts to keep the Revs up. This results in excessive clutch slip when driven like a Honda. At the same time the 2nd gear cog and the diff ring gear are quite weak. and can snap during a hard launch.. These are quality of life issues and have to be remedied to track the car. a lightweight flywheel puts less stress on the transmission internals, a RSX type-S gearset has a stronger 1st and 2nd gear with a smaller diameter ring gear making it more durable, a Hondata tune is required to remove the annoying throttle dampening and shift over run. .... to be continued....
Pretty fucking robust huh? Ima have to get some for my tsx now lmao
Are you selling the rpf1s?
no
Can we have jswap in tsx vid. Pretty plz
Probably manual swap first, then J.
What is the current tyre size?
Those are 235/40 17. Going 245/40 17 next.
do yall have specs on the tools yall use
Hmm, didn't think about listing what tools are needed.
Where can I order this BBK?
fastbrakes.com
Can i use a rdx turbo on tsx ??
I think there is plenty of room to do that. When I pull the engine, I will try it in.
👋😁😎
Hey!
tein flex z or tein street basis z?
Flex
It doesn’t say that in the title.🙃
Vtec Academy = Vtec content for short silly you
I get it now!😊 I’m busy looking at valued content, I’m bad.🤗
LOL
I need some motor mounts for my 9th gen accord *hint hint wink wink* lol
Coincidentally, so do I! Guess I'll have to make them.
23:04 Please don't drive with those rear tires again. It's dangerous to drive on such bald tires. You can literally see the canvas. Not only will you risk your own live, but that of other road users.. Love the content though!
I used them to go from the shop to my lot next door. The worn tires came from a car that got hit and was driven with bent suspension.
Doesn't seem to be a stick shift....
Manual swap coming. Then J!
@@VTECAcademy I see that's why license plates tells
@@VTECAcademy Nice, that will be quite a journey then...
Dang, that was a cheap snag!
The WILWOOD calipers (or 'clippers' as a Hindu acquaintance calls them) don't cover the entire rotor surface area (what a waste!)
Attn brake dude - full-time AirPods aren't a flex, this isn't 2003
That is hilarious. Brian is the most un-flexing guy you'll ever meet. That was so he didn't miss any business calls while off screen and the ring didn't interrupt us. He just didn't bother pulling them when on video.
Anyone want to buy a 1st gen tsx aspec? Get at me.
Can i throw these on my 13TL”