SOLVED! - 1998 Ford Explorer 4.0l sohc - cold rough start and erratic idle - solution in description
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 фев 2015
- Mildly cold (42F) startup, not touching the throttle at all till the very end of the video. On colder days it requires a little throttle to keep running, but as it warms up the idle becomes normal. No codes showing on the ecu.
UPDATE - This was due to bad lower intake o-rings. None were torn, they were simply worn enough they lost enough elasticity they weren't sealing when cold. Costs about $27 for a replacement set.
My best friend was a mechanic for Ford for 40 years. When I told him about my rough idle sensor codes on my 1997 explorer he gave me a list of over 20 possible fixes (Just the parts were over $2000). But I gotta ask, why post of video of just your car idling with no repair video. I think I'll post a video of my radio dial.
Mine died, changed fuel filter, replaced 3 of 6 spark plugs, hasn't died since.
I run fuel injector cleaner with techron ever 3,500 miles and about 5 gallons of non ethanol.
Drilled a bigger hole in airbox, idles better now.
Been chasing this problem on my 92 explorer, thanks for being the only useful video that shows the truck running. Everything else is running on the assumption you know what's wrong.
Michael joseph thank you for being one of the few whom actually read the description.
Thanks for updating the description when you fixed it.
I got my 97 explorer a couple of months before this video was posted. I'm just now having this exact problem and I couldn't find anything about it. Thank you SOOO much for this as well as the solution. It's negative degree weather out by me with tons of snow so I'll just put up with it for now but it's nice to know what the cause is. I already ordered the gaskets and I'm hoping that's all I have to worry about besides a ticking noise but I don't believe that's lifters. Sounds more like an exhaust manifold leak. Having said that, my exhaust manifold is absolutely the most rusty thing on my vehicle so it needs to be replaced anyway. If you care, I'll update you when the work is finished. Just don't feel like forking out $1k for a $20 gasket. You earned a like and subscriber.
Anyone that was wondering: it was the orings. I replaced them a few days after this comment and my truck is running excellent. Thanks for the video 😊
I was definitely wondering. What o rings you talking about tho???
Thanks for posting this! I just swapped mine and she fired up in -3! I get a lot more power too!
My 98' Ford Explorer 5.0L would idle up and down between 350-600 rpms back and forth, was enough to kinda rock the car back and forth. But only sitting in gear.
Just cleaned out the IAC valve with carb cleaner, Cleaned the MAF sensor with cleaner, and used a toothbrush and carb cleaner for the Throttle body, and now it purrs like a kitten. Was throwing bad IAC codes, but they need to be cleaned, especially if you have alot of dust/grime built up in the engine space.
lmcledog my Infiniti has done this the second time after two days without driving it it would go 300-600 rpm bounce for about 4 secs then idle normal hasn’t had a stall or no engine light
Wow.. my 1998 Ford Ranger did this exact thing on every cold startup... For the last 5 years of it's life until I was tired of dealing with it and junked it... Then regretted it!!
I have a 98 Explorer V8 5.0L, and im here to comment on how jelly i am of that Fuel tank reading... HAHA Above Full, now thats what i like to see.
Man it’s crazy how reliable my 98 explorer sport has been. I’ve had it for 5 years now and it has 170,000 on it. I’ve been mudding in it like bottomed tf out on the frame stuck and have pulled people out in it. drove it thru the snow and drifting and shit. they can take a beating and keep on rolling if you take care of them and keep checking fluids.
Damn straight. These little trucks will easily last over 250k with minimum maintanence. Underrated SUVs if you ask me. Mine hit 200k miles a couple weeks ago.
Angel Gutierrez mines at 251k also mine has a slight rough idle but nothing I’m worried about it’s just a tiny misfire that I don’t wanna fix rn
@@trinitybyrom3565 My engine makes a ticking noise. I Have no idea what it is...
@@angelgjr1999 If it's the sohc motor it might be slack in the timing chain
ncurc 97 How do you fix it?
Had this problem on a ford escort, changed the pcv valve and it fixed it..try that
I need me one of these on my proper my father actually sold his and it's nostalgic to hear this again
Uncle Cody happy got car back
thanks Matt, my '01 Explorer 4.0 sohc does the same thing and as it get colder(-15, -20,-30, even alot worse, i have to start it 6 or 7 times before it stays running but ok when warm, the gasket set for upper/lower is $35.00 and the garage wants $500 to do upper/lower. I can do it myself for only the $35.00 gasket set :), Bill Mason.
Thats why i dont even bother with mechanics. I fix my own car as well.
My 95 had a vacuum leak after I put new injectors in and it was my egr line rubber o ring it was cheap and easy to replace just had to take the intake back off
My 4.6L idles high but only when its really hot outside and the a/c is on. Now i'm wondering if i should change my intake gaskets.
Is this also what's causing the quiet ticking sound? Having similar issues with my 97 explorer.
Also the air tube behind the mass airflow sensor can get cracks in it and a little small tubes going to the tube that comes from the air box can come out of the holes sucking in false air that's un- metered and the mass air flow can't see it
And then when it warms up it changes why?
If it has lack of power then it’s in limp mode but if not then that could possibly be an exhaust leak or bad sensor or a vacuum leak
I'm the one weirdo that likes hearing this start up even though there's an issue
@Brian Kase Um I don't care about watching movies on some sketchy website. I'm not quite sure why y'all are mentioning that to me.
Yeah cuz they have that distinct sound... this sounds like a V8...
Does the oil and battery gauge go nuts that winds up making the red check gauge light come on and off! Mine does that and sometimes wants to croak when backing up yet battery is fully charged!
If u have intermittent stalling then their is a loose wire in the fuse panel under the fuel pump relay I fixed it with a piece of copper wire basically its loosing connection from a loose wire
Go thru the EGR system. EGR valve, EGR solenoid, the DPFE sensor, vac lines from intake and no obstructions thru the exhaust return tube into the intake manifold.
Thanks so much!
The PCV tube and elbow rots out on these things sucking in air
A bad Temperature Sensor will do this too. I just discovered this issue with my 91 Ranger 3.0
Thanks for sharing the diagnosis. This is not a repair for faint of heart. Watched some vids there's a lot of tentacles involved. Can I handle it?
My 1999 4 litre ohc explorer has a rough cold start. stalls, runs with an erratic idle until it warms up. It is temp centric so any manifold gaskets failure should be side issue. It is all in the cold start configuaration.
Ever figure out what it was? My 2000 has the same issue and it’s definitely not the fuel pressure system
@@LifePathSeven000 Sorry, just had top learned to live with it...
@@BJBFOREST damn, I just don’t wanna be stuck somewhere lol, but as long as it starts back up wherever I’m at I’m good.
do you mean the upper intake seals, there are 3 seals on the upper that goes to the Plenum fuel rail is that the seals you are talking about, the lower intake just had the gasket no O-rings.
This is the same problem with our ford explorer when we try to start the engine. But we want to know how to fix it at home and what exactly is the problem with our car that is causing it to be like this....
Please read the description.
My mom 98s ford explorer have being have cold start
Uncle Cody takeing me
vacuum leak smoke the motor
so my 98 explorer, 4.0, which ran fine 2 days ago, can’t even idle now. It’ll crank, fire up and immediately die. If I push the gas pedal and just hold it steady, it’ll run just fine like nothing’s wrong, it just can’t idle. Can’t be the cold start cause it’s 70°F out right now. 90% sure it’s a vacuum leak. It did the same thing about a year ago but that was during a cold front in below freezing weather. Any tips or thoughts? Haven’t been able to go through all the vacuum hosing or poke around tho.
maf sensor/idle air control valve? I've been doing a lot of research on something similar. Also, sometimes if you had a mechanic work on it they forget to plug everything back in properly(video I watched about that too). You'd need one of those smoke machines to thoroughly test for vacuum leaks and make sure that's the issue though. I don't think there's much we can do for you without seeing the vehicle.
I have a 95 and it does about the same but its been in Florida
My Mazda B4000 4.0 does not register at all on the temperature gauge it stays just like yours if anyone could possibly know what is wrong I know I may need the sending unit sensor it's almost a definite conclusion there but if any other tips could be thrown my way I would be appreciative for it
Joe Allen temperature sending unit sensor. It should be wired in near ur thermostat housing with a single wire going into it. Replace it.
Buy a new thermostat housing. They are notorious for failure. Bought a new one and now mine does not leak and reads temperature accurately.
I had a rough idle on mine exactly like that and it was two hoses and a fucking dime sized hole in the bottem of the plenum intake manifold and a small intake manifold gasket leak...now I got them fixed and it purrs like a baby kitten until I rev because I modified my air intake box
and how much did it cost to fix all this? (roughly)
700 because I needed a new intake plenum because somehow there was a hole in the plenum the size of a nickel...
$27
Why didn't you show the replacement of these O-rings???
Yo, real talk ...
Wow your engine hit 2000 rpm on its own without you hitting the gas? Mine only went to like 1-1.5 thousand tops on cold starts.
i have a 98 4.0 i cleaned out the iac an it ran worse redid iac took apart throttle body wow was that dirty runs great when it warms up but if i shut it off goto a store 5 10 min come out it has trouble running when i put into gear have changed fuel filter air cleaner found a bad vac line going to the map i was told could be a cracked coil pack ?
Wow! How to fix it? My car has a same problem.
Please advise me how did you do it.
check description of the video
I have the same problem. I replaced all the intake gaskets. The pcv and hoses and new fuel injectors and it still does the same thing. None of it fixed the problem.
Mine had this problem until I got the cats replaced
@@helamanarrigo1249 do you think a bad 02 sensor could cause this also?
Carburetor sticking throttle line
If it has a idle air control valve, maybe that's it. Or EGR sticking open, coolent temperature sensor. Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, transmission codes, ABS, SRS, and MORE! It works on 1984-2013 OBDI Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and Toyota. It works on OBDII. Get the USB cable from EBAY to update it. It uses 4 aaa batteries not included under the screw on the back cover. It comes in a black pouch. It has code-connect to diagnose codes. The screen is well-lit. The CP9680 is for OBDII only.
My dad car is old brake pads and brake carpet and alatortor and bitters
my explorer is doing the same thing what is it?
Lower intake o-rings. Cheap fix.
+Matt Krueger okay I might have to do that
+Matt Krueger is it the girl injector o rings
+Don Harris fuel
screwing up the factory intake system does this
The Life Of Car's o-rings eventually fail, just like any other mechanical seal. Nothing was "screwed up".
Solution
Full throttle!!!
easy fix, remove and clean you Idle speed valve, if it still dont work replace it
Has nothing to do with the IAC (idle air control) valve or circuit.
No, nothing to do with the spark plugs. Please read the description.
Some slipknot \m/
Runs just like mine😂
intake gaskets
Sounds like she's been abused
You may not be wrong, as this was a used engine bought from s salvage yard with supposedly around 100k miles. However it had less than 16% leak-down on the worst cylinder, and was extremely clean and the yard that removed it was meticulous with their attention to detail while removing the engine for resell. Ultimately as I stated in another comment it was found that the upper-intake o-ring seals were leaking and allowing unmetered air into the engine. After everything would warm-up the intake and o-rings would expand enough and properly seal, thus correcting the problem and running smoothly. $12 or so in new seals and an hour of turning wrenches permanently fixed the issue.
i wish you can make a video on how you made it my explorer is doing the same thing.
Its your pvc tubes easy fix
Josh Poling negative ghost rider.
Same exact thing mine n several others done its a super common thing
Josh Poling while I don't doubt that at all, that wasn't the case in this example. Check the description.
I see said the blind man have to keep that in mind i hope to not have to deal with that too tho mine was rebuilt about 30,000 miles ago but the dumb dumb put all the old stuff back on it
U have to smoke weed before starting