I can help clarify a little. That engine is the 4.0 OHV used from 1990-2000 in Rangers. 1991-2000 Explorers. The 4.0 SOHC came after that. It was used from 2001-2011 in Rangers and 1997-2010 Explorers. That line underneath the throttle body isn’t the “PCV elbow” that is the vacuum line for the EVAP system. The PCV elbow is on the driver side valve cover at the back, it comes up and makes 2x 90 degree turns into the intake manifold to vent the crank case pressure. Hence the “elbow” Great video, a lot of people overlook that item. I missed that when I swapped my motor and it took me a while to hunt her down. Nice work man.
@@hnnyrn9647the sohc had more power I guess. You also get three chains for timing and plastic chain guides on the sohc lol. The ohv is less complex I guess, more reliability but a more dated design perhaps. I’m no expert but I have the sohc and at 150k miles it’s a bit tired
Man I believe you just solved my problem. My truck was had bad idling. After watching your video I looked under the hood and sure enough my line was disconnected. Thanks alot.. you saved me some money ❗️❗️❗️
I have a 2002 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0 L and it has 174,000 miles on it. It just purrs, and I'm thankful its lasting for my retirement years. I used the intake valve cleaner spray a couple times, spraying it into the throttle body as per instructions. and I use Seafoam Fuel Additive in the gas tank also I followed the instructions on their website for Seafoam in the oil crankcase. First time I used it in the oil crankcase I added about a one oz. per quart of oil capacity and drove 50 mile before the oil change and again added the same amount into the clean oil crankcase. The engine is very quiet and performs very well. Now. I'll may do this about once a year. I only do two oil changes a year being I only drive it 3000 miles a year. The truck still looks and run like the day I bought it in 2002.
This is exactly what was wrong with my truck. I installed a new EGR valve. During the installation I moved the hose that connects to the plastic elbow you mentioned. That wiggle was enough to damage the small rubber hose causing my check engine light to come on with codes P0174 and P0171. I replaced that little rubber hose and the engine is running smoother than when I bought it. Thank you.
@@HitchinMitch Hey Mitch...did you have a problem finding the correct IAC ...namely the PLUG SIZE.... all suppliers provide one FOR my 95 Explorer 4.0ohv and it's PLUG IS HAVE THE SIZE of my OEM / connection! Is your Ranger a 95....must be at least...plastic upper intake plenum... do you have the part number for ordering online etc... ? thanks.. Barry
I had a 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4 3.0 extended cab for 19 years until I traded it in when I got my F150. It had 153,000 miles on it and was running strong when I traded it. Like you, I wish I had that truck back as it was simple and easy to work on for the most part.
I’ve spent so much money trying to find this problem it wasn’t throwing a code but when you get in the throttle it would sputter and miss watched this video last night and replaced this hose this morning and boom fixed it awesome video thanx for posting it
Thanks for thew vid after installing a new IAC I still have that stall problem as well. I found my hose spit just got a new piece and will install in afew
Oh, that's funny. My 96 just out of the blue started running rough at idle, throwing P0171 and P0174 codes. Looking at all sorts of potential reasons for it, and I'm assuming I need to do a valve cover/valve cover gasket and maybe intake manifold gaskets too. Getting all depressed at all the work I need to do. Then I find this video. No way. Couldn't be that simple. Go out and look at my truck and I'll be darned if that same stupid hose isn't popped off looking at me. RUclips and Hitchin Mitch for the win!
Hey. I just saw your video! Awesome job! I have a hesitation/rough idle in my 1990 Ford Ranger w/4.0L. Over the past few days, I've been seeing if there's a pattern to it. It won't do it on an overnight cold start. It's only happens when I drive it probably 20-30 minutes or more, shut it off, and when I come back out to start it from wherever store I went in, it will really hesitate. Today, I went to get something to eat. When I came back out, it majorly hesitated and then shut off. I started it again and had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from shutting off again. Once I gave it gas and then left the restaurant, there wasn't anymore noticeable hesitation. I stopped at a Family Dollar not even a couple of minutes after leaving the restaurant. Shut it off. Was inside 5-10 minutes, came back up, started right up like nothing was wrong. Just wondering what could be causing it. Could it be the issue like you had in your video? What would you suggest?
Haha! I cleaned my '99 4.0 throttle body and forgot to reconnect that damned thing! I was shitting my pants wondering what the hell I did! 😅 Then I watched your video and opened my hood faster than I ever have haha. Mine was shaking just like yours.
I had this exact problem. I replaced my valve cover gaskets and had to take everything off the top of the engine. I got it all back together, replaced fluids while I was at it, then started it up the next day and it idled rough just like that. I checked fluids, ran it down the road a few miles and back. When I got back home it still idled rough. So I researched and found this video and as soon as you showed that line, I immediately remembered that I didn't reattach it😂😂 Engine idles fine now.
Thank you - My 97 4x4 extended cab ranger 4.0 has less then 60 thousand miles . I about put every sensor on it to the one you cleaned up - still when warm up stalls out at times at stop lights and engine light been on every thing I try ! Well check that hose tomorrow when warms up .
I have persistent po171 only code on 2000 ford ranger 4.0 cant figure it out no vacuum leaks o2 sensors good would a weak gas pump cause this? Or should I try fuel filter first?
Yeah glad I found this vid I have a 94 3.0 In need of a new water pump, and been feeding it water till I get a new pump, but lately it’s been stalling while engaging on the gas in first gear then I start it back up and it has a real rough idle, I give it gas then it’s fine & I’m on my way , but now when I go to start it , it’s running even rougher and it dies giving it gas/idling is it my fuel pump or anything dealing with the fuel or is it my electrical system cuz I’ve been having a problem with my lights flickering as well and battery light always on but I doubt that since I’m having to dance on the gas pedal for it to run sorta good Sorry this a long ass comment 😅🤣
That valve that's on the side of the oil neck, what is that for and where does the piece for it go to? I got a 4.0 in my 2000 ranger 4x4 and I've never seen one like it before.
Thanks I will have to check this out on my 96 Ford Explorer. I just got done checking this out on my explorer and that's not the problem. I plan to change my 02 downstream sensor tomorrow.
Mitch, thanks for the video. My 98 Ranger (auto trans, 4 cycl. engine, 177,000 miles) just went Ti** up on me just now. Hard to start, won't stay running and when I feather the gas, it dies or finally catches and revs smooth. Put it in gear, stalls. If I can keep it running enough to start up, it runs smooth as long as I have steady pressure on gas pedal. Slow for turn it stalls. Thought maybe water in gas or bad gas. Put a 1/2 tank of premium in it, no difference. Feels like the fuel pump. But...when I got the truck a few years ago, my mechanic (good shop-been going there for years) stated it needed a tune up. Idles rough with a rare backfire, but always ran great above idle. I had a Mitsubishi Ecplise a few years ago that ran like a Swiss watch before sounding horrible one time starting, sounding like it was running on 3 cylinders, which, after towing it to my mechanice, was exactly the problem, one of the 4 coils went bad. Ran perfect afterward until a semi smashed it. Does the Ranger have seperate coils or could the Distributor be bad. Feels like a gas flow problem. Fuel Pump? I gave you a subscribe. Good video. Rob
These trucks tend to have a distributor and not individual coil packs. I had a BMW that got water in the distribution and caused it to run poorly, so wouldn't be a bad idea to check out. Thank you for the support!
Thanks for the video I have a 2003 4.0 that has been running rough idling rough for the last couple months I've just everything that I could think of except that and I hope it works 368,000 Miles on my truck I think I've only put 3000 in it since I purchased it back in 2007 and that's including tires
Hey man did you ever figure out your rough idle with your 3.0? I have a 2001 3.0 v6 and it only idles rough when it's first started after sitting all night and then it smooths out after like 5 seconds
@joshuaclay1576 it was actually one of the steel vacuum lines on the right side by the valve cover. It had corroded and broke off. So I grabbed some JB Weld Putting and It held up pretty well.
Replaced that one on my 01 4.0 xlt had two holes in it but wasint the fix for me. Took carb cleaner and sprayed around the intake. Yup bad intake gasket so got the upper and lower kit
Love my 2000 ford ranger xlt 2.5l has 198.000.000 just change my timing belt for the first time. Still powerful engine. Perfect for another 100.000 miles.
I have a 2003 ford ranger xlt 3.0 ....my issue is that it has a little shakes so I change the spark plugs and wires and pvc vale 02 sensors when you give it gas it shakes then go aways then when stop at a light or backing up it starts to shake again ....
Have the same problem with my 3.0. Codes threw 02 sensors but still runs like this… im starting to think i have a vacuum leak. Any thoughts? Its an 05 too.
Mine is a 01 Ford ranger earlier had Loss of power but mainly shaky when I'm ideling and O'Reilly's reader says it's misfiring and running off of one cylinder I replaced the coil pack but that wasn't it it was out of oil I put 2 quarts in and that didn't help any ideas
I have the same issue with my 98 Taurus with the 3.0 l Vulcan engine bough this vehicle brand new, only has a 145,000 miles on it think I'm going to have too blow smoke in to the upper intake manifold to find that leak.
mine is doing the exact same thing an my hose is hanging off just like that one was so thank you u jus saved me a 100 bucks changing the whole mass air sensor
@@HitchinMitch thats exactly what was wrong with my lil truck bro it runs great now...its usually something small that ppl completely over look..thx again
if yours has not had head issues if u do find coolant going missing get some ceramic k-seal it works on the valve seat cracks in the heads these OHV 4.0s get when the coolant gets in there it will randomly shut off as it fouls the plugs
Does anyone know what this plug goes to? Just replaced the ECM in a 96 mazda b2300. When I fired up the truck it ran for a little bit. Started a second time and it stalls out or doesn't want to start.
I know all about that center support bearing. Went through two of them in a month. Look up online that sportrac explorers have the one piece driveshaft. Lines right up! Probem been solved
I have a 96 Explorer. Very similar. But that line has a clip fitting and the line is virtually impossible to get off. I just leave it connected for fear it could break if I have to take the TB off. The intake manifold is slightly different too, but everything else looks the same.I see you are missing cruise control :lol:
Am I the only one who had an awesome dual exhaust system on their ranger back in the day that pulled a vacuum cap off just to make the truck lope and sound cammed while I was out cruising? Lol Basically I made my 4.0 do what this one was doing but I wanted NY truck to idle rough like that lol
quick question. i have a 99 ranger 4.0 and it idles weird. it’ll idle fine but when i turn on the a/c it’ll make a click sound and then go into a high idle. then it’ll go back to normal and then click to a hug idle again. could anyone help me out on this?
Unfortunately I don't have this specific truck in my possession, I was working on it for someone. I do have a 98 ranger with the 3.0 that I can take a look at when I am back near it.
I have a 2002 Ranger with the 4.0 V6 and it just started doing the exact same thing a couple weeks ago. I've been trying to track it down. I'm going to check this out as soon as it cools off a bit. Thank you for sharing this out! I really hope that's all it is!
Wouldn't you know it? It's not the same under my hood as in the video. I'm not a mechanic at all. But it seems like I should be able to find a disconnected vacuum line right?
I just dealt with this sort of thing. (Stalling, surging, idle was erratic, etc..) I got MAF sensor codes, along with air intake temperature sensor, coolant temperature sensor, throttle position sensor, etc.. On the driver's side, next to the wire harness in the back, is the ECU. If you take that out and open it up, the ECU has electrolytic capacitors on the mother board, (mine had 3) that leaked and burned. (most that old have probably failed to some extent by now. They smell something like old fish when they leak) I took those out, and soldered in new ones. (~30 cents each) I also had to jumper wire a few traces, because they burned and damaged nearby traces too.. I think those run the 5 volt reference (among other things) that some of those sensors use to calibrate themselves. So when the caps go bad, it'll throw codes for those various things together, and everything'll run like crap. Until it activates _limp mode,_ which also runs like crap, but more drivable crap.
I have a 2011 Ranger XLT 4.0 SOHC just picked it up 22841 original miles it’s sat at my neighbors house for about six years after he died and his wife just sold it to me a week ago the only thing I have had to do is fix a rotted tranny cooler line and the ac clutch is not pulling in I think the freon has leaked out I manually jump the clutch and it works fine the relays also working fine
I have a 1994 ford exploer xlt and between 2-3k rpm’s it bogs out real bad and I changed all the spark plugs, plug wires and coil pack and it still didn’t fix it
I can help clarify a little.
That engine is the 4.0 OHV used from 1990-2000 in Rangers. 1991-2000 Explorers. The 4.0 SOHC came after that. It was used from 2001-2011 in Rangers and 1997-2010 Explorers.
That line underneath the throttle body isn’t the “PCV elbow” that is the vacuum line for the EVAP system. The PCV elbow is on the driver side valve cover at the back, it comes up and makes 2x 90 degree turns into the intake manifold to vent the crank case pressure. Hence the “elbow”
Great video, a lot of people overlook that item. I missed that when I swapped my motor and it took me a while to hunt her down. Nice work man.
Yeap, it comes from canister through a solenoid valve.
I would also add that engine has been used in the Aerostar vans also, not sure of the exact years but for sure a 1995 model as I am the owner of one.
Raytyler26 you are exactly right on the money. All that you said is 100% accurate.
Which 4.0 is better? Looking at a 2002 ranger 4.0 manual 4k$
@@hnnyrn9647the sohc had more power I guess. You also get three chains for timing and plastic chain guides on the sohc lol. The ohv is less complex I guess, more reliability but a more dated design perhaps. I’m no expert but I have the sohc and at 150k miles it’s a bit tired
Man I believe you just solved my problem. My truck was had bad idling. After watching your video I looked under the hood and sure enough my line was disconnected. Thanks alot.. you saved me some money ❗️❗️❗️
Ran outside as soon as you showed the fault. Exactly what was wrong. You are Awesome!!!!!
An Actron CP9690 code tester has misfire test. It checks fuel trims. Normal reading is 0.
I have a 2002 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0 L and it has 174,000 miles on it. It just purrs, and I'm thankful its lasting for my retirement years. I used the intake valve cleaner spray a couple times, spraying it into the throttle body as per instructions. and I use Seafoam Fuel Additive in the gas tank also I followed the instructions on their website for Seafoam in the oil crankcase. First time I used it in the oil crankcase I added about a one oz. per quart of oil capacity and drove 50 mile before the oil change and again added the same amount into the clean oil crankcase. The engine is very quiet and performs very well. Now. I'll may do this about once a year. I only do two oil changes a year being I only drive it 3000 miles a year. The truck still looks and run like the day I bought it in 2002.
Mine has the same rn but sat for 4 years so it runs horrible
Dude!! So glad I found this! My 96 just started having a really shaky idle. Definitely going to check this out tomorrow. Thanks for the info!
THANK YOU! Got a 94 Ranger, it idles real rough every now n then. Now I have something new to check, instead of chasing my tail!!!!
So glad I found you I have a 97 ranger like your buddy and I’m hoping after work today this will make things better for my truck
This is exactly what was wrong with my truck. I installed a new EGR valve. During the installation I moved the hose that connects to the plastic elbow you mentioned. That wiggle was enough to damage the small rubber hose causing my check engine light to come on with codes P0174 and P0171. I replaced that little rubber hose and the engine is running smoother than when I bought it. Thank you.
thank you so much this literally fixed my truck 🙏
I love my 1991 ford ranger 4.0 got it for only $250 an it’s runs like a champ. Except for this issue I was having. Thank you so much for this video
OMFG THANK YOU SO MUCH! I NEEDED THIS VIDEO NO OTHER VIDEOS ACTULLY SHOW THE TRUCK IDLEING ROUGH! LIKE NONE ZERO
Glad to hear my video could help!
@@HitchinMitch Hey Mitch...did you have a problem finding the correct IAC ...namely the PLUG SIZE.... all suppliers provide one FOR my 95 Explorer 4.0ohv and it's PLUG IS HAVE THE SIZE of my OEM / connection! Is your Ranger a 95....must be at least...plastic upper intake plenum... do you have the part number for ordering online etc... ? thanks.. Barry
Thank you soooo much. I just fixed my 1997 aerostar van which has the 4.0 engine because of you video.
Thank you so much! you were very helpful and didnt take all year to get there! lol! keep up the good work!
I was having the same issue. Mines wouldn’t stay crunk unless I kept giving it gas then right after I let off it’ll cut off. This helped a lot thanks.
Thanks This will help my dad's ranger truck. Great info.😇
Thanks man this video was a huge help you have no idea the problem was exactly as you said.
Hey Thanks that just happened on my 2001 . Ranger limped it home went to RUclips . Your Video came up first . Thanks for help running smooth now .
I had a 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4 3.0 extended cab for 19 years until I traded it in when I got my F150. It had 153,000 miles on it and was running strong when I traded it. Like you, I wish I had that truck back as it was simple and easy to work on for the most part.
They were great little trucks! Maybe one day Ill get another until then, gotta love the capability of my f150.
Hey at least you got a truck that you NEEDED more right? I'm sure you haul more than the ranger could handle 4 times a week to warrant the change
Thank you for this clear explanation. This maybe the problem I'm having with my Ford Ranger 2.3 Liter.
I know this video is four years old but it was my exact problem and I’m so thankful for the video.
You are a god gonna see if this is the issue tomorrow thanks for the help man
I wouldn't go that far, but thank you non the less!
Thank you so much my dude this might have helped me with my 95 explorer
Had the same issue with my 97 four litre ranger...great short and to the point video....250000 miles original engine
Great video! I am gonna check that out on my ranger. it dies in park and at a stop. Hopefully this fixes the problem.
I’ve spent so much money trying to find this problem it wasn’t throwing a code but when you get in the throttle it would sputter and miss watched this video last night and replaced this hose this morning and boom fixed it awesome video thanx for posting it
Thanks for thew vid after installing a new IAC I still have that stall problem as well. I found my hose spit just got a new piece and will install in afew
Nice easy fix. Going to check my uncles truck in the morning.
You're awesome bro! Thanks so much for posting! Gonna try it & hope this solves the problem. 😎👍
Oh, that's funny. My 96 just out of the blue started running rough at idle, throwing P0171 and P0174 codes. Looking at all sorts of potential reasons for it, and I'm assuming I need to do a valve cover/valve cover gasket and maybe intake manifold gaskets too. Getting all depressed at all the work I need to do. Then I find this video. No way. Couldn't be that simple. Go out and look at my truck and I'll be darned if that same stupid hose isn't popped off looking at me. RUclips and Hitchin Mitch for the win!
Thanks. This will hopefully help a lot. Much appreciated.
Hey. I just saw your video! Awesome job! I have a hesitation/rough idle in my 1990 Ford Ranger w/4.0L. Over the past few days, I've been seeing if there's a pattern to it. It won't do it on an overnight cold start. It's only happens when I drive it probably 20-30 minutes or more, shut it off, and when I come back out to start it from wherever store I went in, it will really hesitate. Today, I went to get something to eat. When I came back out, it majorly hesitated and then shut off. I started it again and had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from shutting off again. Once I gave it gas and then left the restaurant, there wasn't anymore noticeable hesitation. I stopped at a Family Dollar not even a couple of minutes after leaving the restaurant. Shut it off. Was inside 5-10 minutes, came back up, started right up like nothing was wrong. Just wondering what could be causing it. Could it be the issue like you had in your video? What would you suggest?
I have the same truck and problem, did you end up finding out what caused it?
I got same thing 94 explorer
There’s a whole ass cake on that positive terminal 😂😂😂
Haha! I cleaned my '99 4.0 throttle body and forgot to reconnect that damned thing! I was shitting my pants wondering what the hell I did! 😅 Then I watched your video and opened my hood faster than I ever have haha. Mine was shaking just like yours.
Hell yea thanks fixed my ranger!
Ty sir. I failed to say ty.
I had this exact problem. I replaced my valve cover gaskets and had to take everything off the top of the engine. I got it all back together, replaced fluids while I was at it, then started it up the next day and it idled rough just like that. I checked fluids, ran it down the road a few miles and back. When I got back home it still idled rough. So I researched and found this video and as soon as you showed that line, I immediately remembered that I didn't reattach it😂😂 Engine idles fine now.
Thanks for the tip I was getting frustrated.
I have a 97 just like yours and in the past year everything rubber is starting to fail. Time for a total go through
Thank you - My 97 4x4 extended cab ranger 4.0 has less then 60 thousand miles . I about put every sensor on it to the one you cleaned up - still when warm up stalls out at times at stop lights and engine light been on every thing I try ! Well check that hose tomorrow when warms up .
Did it fix?
I have persistent po171 only code on 2000 ford ranger 4.0 cant figure it out no vacuum leaks o2 sensors good would a weak gas pump cause this? Or should I try fuel filter first?
Yeah glad I found this vid I have a 94 3.0 In need of a new water pump, and been feeding it water till I get a new pump, but lately it’s been stalling while engaging on the gas in first gear then I start it back up and it has a real rough idle, I give it gas then it’s fine & I’m on my way , but now when I go to start it , it’s running even rougher and it dies giving it gas/idling is it my fuel pump or anything dealing with the fuel or is it my electrical system cuz I’ve been having a problem with my lights flickering as well and battery light always on but I doubt that since I’m having to dance on the gas pedal for it to run sorta good
Sorry this a long ass comment 😅🤣
My 1992 ranger is having the same issue. I am gonna check it out today. Ill check back and let u know how it goes. Thanks
That valve that's on the side of the oil neck, what is that for and where does the piece for it go to?
I got a 4.0 in my 2000 ranger 4x4 and I've never seen one like it before.
I have a question you have the same engine and setup as me so would you happen to know where the camshaft position sensor is?
This was helpful. I miss my ranger. I put 423k on it
Same for me but mine is over the 500,000 mile mark already...
Still runs good ..👍🇺🇸
Thanks I will have to check this out on my 96 Ford Explorer. I just got done checking this out on my explorer and that's not the problem.
I plan to change my 02 downstream sensor tomorrow.
Mitch, thanks for the video. My 98 Ranger (auto trans, 4 cycl. engine, 177,000 miles) just went Ti** up on me just now. Hard to start, won't stay running and when I feather the gas, it dies or finally catches and revs smooth. Put it in gear, stalls. If I can keep it running enough to start up, it runs smooth as long as I have steady pressure on gas pedal. Slow for turn it stalls. Thought maybe water in gas or bad gas. Put a 1/2 tank of premium in it, no difference. Feels like the fuel pump. But...when I got the truck a few years ago, my mechanic (good shop-been going there for years) stated it needed a tune up. Idles rough with a rare backfire, but always ran great above idle. I had a Mitsubishi Ecplise a few years ago that ran like a Swiss watch before sounding horrible one time starting, sounding like it was running on 3 cylinders, which, after towing it to my mechanice, was exactly the problem, one of the 4 coils went bad. Ran perfect afterward until a semi smashed it. Does the Ranger have seperate coils or could the Distributor be bad. Feels like a gas flow problem. Fuel Pump?
I gave you a subscribe. Good video.
Rob
These trucks tend to have a distributor and not individual coil packs. I had a BMW that got water in the distribution and caused it to run poorly, so wouldn't be a bad idea to check out. Thank you for the support!
You ever figure it out? I’m having the exact same problem. Any tips?
Thank you for this video! After a $2 vaccuum hose, my truck purrs like a 97 Ranger again.
Thanks for the video I have a 2003 4.0 that has been running rough idling rough for the last couple months I've just everything that I could think of except that and I hope it works 368,000 Miles on my truck I think I've only put 3000 in it since I purchased it back in 2007 and that's including tires
Any update I have the same truck and I can't find the damn leak
Life saver, thx!
Tenho um modelo desse exato de ranger aqui no brazil ai tem pecas de reposição genuínas , originais ford ??
Thanks for the video man. This is a common problem on these trucks. I'll be checking my 2000 ranger 3.0 and hopefully it's a small vacuum leak.
Hey man did you ever figure out your rough idle with your 3.0? I have a 2001 3.0 v6 and it only idles rough when it's first started after sitting all night and then it smooths out after like 5 seconds
@joshuaclay1576 it was actually one of the steel vacuum lines on the right side by the valve cover. It had corroded and broke off. So I grabbed some JB Weld Putting and It held up pretty well.
Just got a ranger... where does this line go from that elbow?
You just helped me , thanks.
I was getting the same symptoms on a Ford Windstar. It turn out to be the power steering fluid pressure sensor. Located on the rack.
Replaced that one on my 01 4.0 xlt had two holes in it but wasint the fix for me. Took carb cleaner and sprayed around the intake. Yup bad intake gasket so got the upper and lower kit
Love my 2000 ford ranger xlt 2.5l has 198.000.000 just change my timing belt for the first time. Still powerful engine. Perfect for another 100.000 miles.
Thanks for the video I just got a Ford ranger that had the same problem and you just saved me a lot of time hassle and money
I have a '90 Ranger 6cyl with idle problems it will almost stall...?
Did you keep the safety glasses on when you drove, my guy?
Bro, you saved my truck!
Thanks from Guam
id love 2 drive one. my 91 ranger was only a 3.0 liter when i had it
awesome video man thank you
My ranger starts on the second try, could it be that it needs a spark plugs? Or battery ?
Safety first good man
I have a 2003 ford ranger xlt 3.0 ....my issue is that it has a little shakes so I change the spark plugs and wires and pvc vale 02 sensors when you give it gas it shakes then go aways then when stop at a light or backing up it starts to shake again ....
Have the same problem with my 3.0. Codes threw 02 sensors but still runs like this… im starting to think i have a vacuum leak. Any thoughts? Its an 05 too.
Mega thanks my 96 ranger is having issues.
I had a 2004 and have a 2011 FX4 Great trucks. Also have an F150, kept the Ranger. Just could'nt let her go!!
Mine is a 01 Ford ranger earlier had Loss of power but mainly shaky when I'm ideling and O'Reilly's reader says it's misfiring and running off of one cylinder I replaced the coil pack but that wasn't it it was out of oil I put 2 quarts in and that didn't help any ideas
Excellent video
I have the same issue with my 98 Taurus with the 3.0 l Vulcan engine bough this vehicle brand new, only has a 145,000 miles on it think I'm going to have too blow smoke in to the upper intake manifold to find that leak.
I have the same issue I swapped out the iacv and coolant temperature sensor and still having the same issue definitely trying this after work
Could be the capacitors in the ECU. _All_ of mine were bad, and those help run those components you mentioned.
mine is doing the exact same thing an my
hose is hanging off just like that one was so thank you u jus saved me a 100 bucks changing the whole mass air sensor
Glad to hear I was able to help!
@@HitchinMitch thats exactly what was wrong with my lil truck bro it runs great now...its usually something small that ppl completely over look..thx again
Great Video..🤠👍
Please Keep Making More..
And Share them ...to the World.. 👽👽👁
if yours has not had head issues if u do find coolant going missing get some ceramic k-seal it works on the valve seat cracks in the heads these OHV 4.0s get when the coolant gets in there it will randomly shut off as it fouls the plugs
Does anyone know what this plug goes to? Just replaced the ECM in a 96 mazda b2300. When I fired up the truck it ran for a little bit. Started a second time and it stalls out or doesn't want to start.
I know all about that center support bearing. Went through two of them in a month. Look up online that sportrac explorers have the one piece driveshaft. Lines right up! Probem been solved
I gotta check this out in my own Mazda B3000 Dual Sport 3.0 V6 :D 2006
I have idle issues with my '97 4.0 Ranger ex-cab. Will look for loose vacuum hoses... Thanks Dude!
Update: My Intake vacuum hose had separated. Replaced connector, runs great now!
Awesome to hear it was a simple fix!
I have a 96 Explorer. Very similar. But that line has a clip fitting and the line is virtually impossible to get off. I just leave it connected for fear it could break if I have to take the TB off. The intake manifold is slightly different too, but everything else looks the same.I see you are missing cruise control :lol:
My truck has 400,000 plus miles and I had just done a tune up and new alternator but it started idling and doesn’t want to catch speed either
What was it that you fixed?
Where does that vacuum line go to ?
Thank You
Where does the line come from?
Am I the only one who had an awesome dual exhaust system on their ranger back in the day that pulled a vacuum cap off just to make the truck lope and sound cammed while I was out cruising? Lol Basically I made my 4.0 do what this one was doing but I wanted NY truck to idle rough like that lol
My 97 ranger had the same problem but my vacuum hose had deteriated to the point where it was crumbling. New hose and runs like new, well almost.
As new as a 23 year old truck could run, right. 👍
Where did you get your new vacuum hose? I'm having same issue as you, but unable to locate new hose to replace it.
I was about to say Check for vacuume leaks.
I'm hoping, really hoping.
quick question. i have a 99 ranger 4.0 and it idles weird. it’ll idle fine but when i turn on the a/c it’ll make a click sound and then go into a high idle. then it’ll go back to normal and then click to a hug idle again. could anyone help me out on this?
Hi can you please assist me with my car doesn't move forward or backward what can I check
Bro I need your help on a ranger I just bought for my son. The grey wire that is connected next to the ignition coil connector where does it go?
Unfortunately I don't have this specific truck in my possession, I was working on it for someone. I do have a 98 ranger with the 3.0 that I can take a look at when I am back near it.
I'd appreciate it so much. I'm so confused by the issue of this truck.
I have a 2002 Ranger with the 4.0 V6 and it just started doing the exact same thing a couple weeks ago. I've been trying to track it down. I'm going to check this out as soon as it cools off a bit. Thank you for sharing this out! I really hope that's all it is!
Wouldn't you know it? It's not the same under my hood as in the video. I'm not a mechanic at all. But it seems like I should be able to find a disconnected vacuum line right?
Thanks
I see it has 2 ECT’s. Which one is the sensor and which one is the sender?
Unfortunately I'm not to sure, so I couldn't be able to say.
Just ordered a fan clutch and then saw this and think that hose will fix the problem
I just dealt with this sort of thing. (Stalling, surging, idle was erratic, etc..) I got MAF sensor codes, along with air intake temperature sensor, coolant temperature sensor, throttle position sensor, etc..
On the driver's side, next to the wire harness in the back, is the ECU. If you take that out and open it up, the ECU has electrolytic capacitors on the mother board, (mine had 3) that leaked and burned. (most that old have probably failed to some extent by now. They smell something like old fish when they leak)
I took those out, and soldered in new ones. (~30 cents each) I also had to jumper wire a few traces, because they burned and damaged nearby traces too..
I think those run the 5 volt reference (among other things) that some of those sensors use to calibrate themselves. So when the caps go bad, it'll throw codes for those various things together, and everything'll run like crap. Until it activates _limp mode,_ which also runs like crap, but more drivable crap.
I have a 2011 Ranger XLT 4.0 SOHC just picked it up 22841 original miles it’s sat at my neighbors house for about six years after he died and his wife just sold it to me a week ago the only thing I have had to do is fix a rotted tranny cooler line and the ac clutch is not pulling in I think the freon has leaked out I manually jump the clutch and it works fine the relays also working fine
I have a 1994 ford exploer xlt and between 2-3k rpm’s it bogs out real bad and I changed all the spark plugs, plug wires and coil pack and it still didn’t fix it