Canon F-1N (F-1 New) Video Manual 1 of 2
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- Опубликовано: 21 апр 2019
- The Canon F-1N overhauled the F-1's design and brought a number of advancements and design changes that Canon had implemented on A-series cameras like the AE-1. This meant that the F-1N was a lighter camera than the F-1 and that it also had more internal components made of plastic. The upside was that the F-1N had more features and capabilities than the original F-1, however.
This video is the first of two about the F-1N and looks at the camera's interface. This video covers all the buttons and other interface elements on the camera's body and identifies what they are. Video 2 details how to use each item.
Link to the Review Video:
• Canon New F-1 35mm Fil...
Link to Video 2:
• Canon F-1N (F-1 New) V...
Video Index:
Skip the Intro: 0:16
Physical Differences from the Original F-1: 0:25
Camera Overview: 1:44
Canon F-1N Features - Top: 2:29
Canon F-1N Features - Front: 4:55
Canon F-1N Features - Bottom: 6:14
Canon F-1N Features - Back: 7:27
Canon F-1N Features - Inside: 8:34
Notes about the Canon F-1N: 11:12
Identifying, Recognizing, and Overcoming the F-1N Frame Skipping Issue: 12:15
Electronics Issues Affecting the Canon F-1N Meter: 15:24
Camera Don’ts: 17:45
Invitation to Like and Subscribe: 20:25
References:
www.butkus.org/chinon/canon/c...
www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/...
www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/...
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_N...
www.photo.net/discuss/threads...
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I bought one of these last week off eBay. Your videos are almost eerily on time for me at least twice now. Don't stop :)
:D
David, I have both versions of the F-1 and use them quite a bit. I have never had any issues with the NEW and it has quite a lot of miles on it. Plus the 28L batteries are easier to find and last much longer. Both are work horses and I do enjoy the simplicity of the OLD all mechanical operation. I don't even use a battery in it most times. just a HH meter or play guess the exposure.
Thank you! I use the old one a lot still, too. Just a wonderful camera.
Always excited about new camera manual!!!
You've got some exciting months coming. Last night I filmed the manuals for the S2A, OM-1, and OM-4. I have a bunch more that I'm writing and I'm planning to basically just releasing weekly manuals videos for about the next six months.
@@DavidHancock Can't wait!
Great video and tips, just got my N F-1, a necessary updgrade from ae-1. Awsome, Tks David
Thank you, Jose! And good camera choice!
Hi David,
Thanks for producing this manual. Great stuff. It is a shame that your F-1N has an advancing problem. It will be fixed via a CLA.
Nice video..I bought the New F-1 when it launched and I must say I never had the issues your had with it.
Nice!
this video (and 2) are so friggen helpful. i’m
purchasing one tomorrow to add to the collection, and this gave me all the nags to check out before i plunk down some cash
Thank you! Good luck with the buy. If these work well they're nice.
Thank you for these!
Oh man - just recently sold my F-1 (old) to get the F-1N, a little nervous to hear you say the old ones likely last longer :D I do love the auto-mode and the easy way to do double exposures though
Thank you and those are both very nice features.
A very thorough walkthrough, but still a few comments and corrections:
- The AE coupler has nothing to do with film advance, it mechanically interfaces with the aperture of the lens for shutter priority operation.
- There aren't any plastic gearing components in the camera mechanism in the new F-1. Shutter squeak only occurs in the A- series cameras and also hasn't got anything to do with gears being made of plastic.
- Your camera releasing by itself has nothing to do with plastic components. It needs a CLA. The latching mechanism isn't resetting properly, because it's sticky. You can probably confirm that by removing the battery and try to advance the camera. If it doesn't occur without the battery, you have an electronic problem, a sticky reed switch or some other malfunction. The meter not turning on is a further testament to your camera needing a CLA. The cost of fix probably isn't substantial.
- The new F-1 has excellent weather sealing which should be maintained as a part of a CLA
Also, the lighting and focus don't really help a curious viewer get the best out of this video. If you display the controls, you should illuminate the camera from above and use your hands from the sides. A desk mat that's a similar colour to the camera will also help with automatic exposure.
Thank you! That helps me a lot.
Thank you so much David for this great video. I bought a New F-1 a couple of days ago and the AE finder has mold on the inner glass of the finder. The mirror is fine. I'm looking for some advice on how to open it so that I can clean it. I did some research and it appears that few people tried to dismantle it. So, if any person reading this has some experience with that kind of repairing, that would be very appreciated.
Thank you! Check the Fix Old Cameras channel. They may know how. I opened my Minolta XK prism to fix it. They're not as complex as a camera to repair, but it's not a repair I'd take on without a backup prism of some sort just in case.
@@DavidHancock I didn't know that you answered me! 5 month after...haha, that's me. So, the issue was the glass of the viewfinder. I opened it by removing the glue and I cleaned it. Major change, the interior of the prism is fine, but there is fungus inside the focusing screen. I can live with it for the moment, I will have to find a good one one day or another. Amazing camera, definitely not light, but it is built like a tank.
I have watched your videos on the Canon F1 and F1N because in these difficult times I am going back to film photography. I used to own the Canon F1 when it first came on the market and was very happy with it. You said you were going to keep the F1 and not the F1N for what I felt were very good reasons. Is that still your feeling? Are there better battery options for the F1 than in 2013 when you did the videos on that model? One issue that now affects my photography is aging eyes and manual focusing. In my medium format cameras I find a -1.5 diopter cures all those problems. Does the F1 have changeable diopters? All things being equal I will likely pick one up shortly. Thanks.
Thank you! And yes, I sold this camera almost a year ago. I still use the old F-1. In fact I invested in some nice FD lenses like a 135mm f/2 and 200mm f/2.8 to get me using that camera more often.
Duracell 28A battery. Uses the same battery as a Pentax 6x7 which was a great selling factor for me to buy a Canon F-1 new.
Yes, exactly the same battery. Readily available and cheap now.
Thank you for this manual & review!
I'm looking forward to get my first film SLR soon. Being a digital photographer for many years and now just discovered that film is actually much more enjoyable!
I was thinking of getting the F1 New, though I'm holding that decision back now that you've stated the few problems with this model. Had found a good deal with 50mm f1.4 SSC. I can also get the Nikon F3 for the same price as the original F1 here, may I get your opinions on them? I do not have a lens collection for either of the mounts.
Thank you and for the F3 and original F-1, it depends on if you need to have aperture-priority shooting. If yes, the F3 is the better bet. If not, the F-1 is a bit simpler and lacks some of the issues the F3 has with failing LCD readouts inside the viewfinder. I own both and they are the one FD and Nikon F camera body I plan to keep.
@@DavidHancock I see, and no I’m comfortable with fully manual, feels more fun to me that way hehe.
The deal I’ve found here was around $200 for F-1 New & FD 50mm f1.4 , stated that the camera was checked and cleaned recently (I’d have to ask when and test it myself in this case)
$170 for F-1 and F3 body only. 30 bucks for that gorgeous lens with the new F-1 seemed to good to pass by, making me indecisive ahah
Thank you for your inputs!
What is the difference between 1sst and 2nnd ones (71, 81),
Nevermore you answer around 15 min. Mark. Both first and second have some real annoying issues if you have a live roll.
Will the camera meter and shoot correctly with the prism removed, aka shooting in a waist level mode?
Auto mode likely to be used as the meter info won’t be visible! Thanks
I have one of these in the post - maybe it will replace my LX as the daily driver!
I can't recall. I sold this camera when I made the video. I used to use it without the prism, but I think I had to use manual mode.
David could you please be that nice to make a video also on the canon EF the black beauty please?
If I get my hands on one that works, then I definitely will. To-date, every one that I've bought has been dead due to a bat meter or electronic components.
David you would want that dof preview button pushed in when changing lenses right ??
Or does it make a difference??
When changing lenses, do not hold down the DoF preview button. That causes part of the camera to engage with the lens and could damage the camera when the lens moves.
Hey I’m thinking about upgrading from the ae1 program to the f1n or should I go with the Nikon f3?
Since you're already in the FD lens system, stick with it because it will be cheaper to not have to buy into a new lens system, too.
Hello David. My battery check button is not lifting back up. (jammed down) do you know what may have caused this or what may fix it?
It's probably dirt. Try cleaning what you can access with 91% running alcohol on a cotton swab. You'll need to go over it multiple times and probably press on the button to get some alcohol into the space around the button. That's the easiest proposition.
Hello David! I recently started to experiment some issues with my Canon F1 New and I wonder if you could help me on that! What happend is that at different shutter speeds, the images appear overexposed with the shape of the curtain, I mean , it is similar as shooting with a flash with no shutter syncro. At the images (just with some shutter speeds) you can cleary see the shutter curtain realeasing by steps. Thank you David!
I can help you out with that, yes, but unfortunately that's where the good news ends. That's likely to need a professional repair. As for the specific problem causing that fault, I'm not sure. I can't even tell you with certainty if that's an "easy "shutter repair (there is no such thing) or a hard shutter repair (meaning very expensive with the potential for a new shutter being needed.) That's not anything you're doing wrong with the camera, which is good. It's the shutter hanging up due to either a mechanical issue or something in the mechanism that shouldn't be.
Thanks for this video... an F1New has fallen into my lap... it's a wonderful camera, so I'm excited to give it a try. It's been so long since using a film camera with mechanical shutter. I have a question about the battery... what does the battery control, and is it necessary? Since the shutter is mechanical, can this be shot without a battery?
Thank you and the battery controls everything. Technically, the shutter is electromechanical or electromagnetic. Basically, it needs a charge from the battery to fire on any speed. So the battery is mandatory for anything you want to do with the camera.
@@DavidHancock I see... thanks. And the battery is easy to find I hope.
@@SquidDesign very. Any pharmacy or grocery store will have it
@@DavidHancock I don't think that's right. I don't have a F-1, but have a 1984 Canon brochure that says shutter speeds from X to 1/2000 are mechanical and available without batteries. Same with the Pentax LX. In this respect they both beat the third in this class, the Nikon F3, which has back-up at X only, and a second shutter button to use it.
@@dukenukem5768 You do have to remove the dead battery to make the mechanical speeds work
Hey friend any advice on cleaning a light oily smudge on the rear back shutter curtain? I may of grazed it! Not crazy but it bothers me. As long as it doesn't bother the image process at all I'll leave it be. Just got mine today! Great vids man
Oh boy. I sold mine so I can't check, but this has a blade shutter not a fabric shutter, correct? If so then you will want to clean it. I'd check the Fix Old Cameras channel to see if they have a video on the subject and, if not, shoot them a comment and see if they have pointers.
@@DavidHancock It has a fabric shutter I believe! Its appears to be soft and not hard at all? But also more importantly I'm not getting the needle reading in full manual mode! I have the circle that pops up on my selected aperture but I dont get the needle to help match the desired exposure. Should this automatically be there or do I have prompt it to happen? Thanks so much> Purchased this camera from Japan! Great condition but I just noticed this watching your video
@@justinashlye oh good with the fabric shutter. I'd leave it be as there's risk to your shutter in cleaning it, none in not. For the needle, that should adjust as you adjust settings. Have you tested it outside? If not then there may not be enough light indoors to give you a reading.
@@DavidHancock I will say I don't know if this matters with or without film in the camera. Been waiting on the rolls to come in from B&H. Not sure if that makes a difference or not with the needle. Contacted the seller so hopefully I get it sorted out.
Have you done a video on the canon ef?
I haven't been able to get a working one.
I have the same problem with my F1N. I keep on advancing the shutter lever by the shutter curtain keeps on returning back; hence, the cocking procedure is taking forever! How can I fix that nagging problem? Thanks in advance!
It's an issue with the shutter control magnets. Most likely it's just dirt, but the repair requires some camera disassembly and should be done by a professional.
Does the new f1 have a mirror lock? (MLU) thanks!
If so, and it's been years since I sold this camera so I can't recall for sure, it's mentioned in this video.
Just got a F1 New today, and the only thing my DoF preview button did was add a little circle on light meter inside of the viewfinder when it was pushed in. However, no matter if the switch was pushed in or back out, it never changed my lens aperture. That only happens when I take a photo. Any thoughts as to why?
Hmm. That's curious. I'd start with removing the lens and cycling the shutter a few times. If that fixes it then the issue was that the lens was mounted after the shutter had been triggered but before the film was advanced. If that doesn't fix the issue, let me know.
@@DavidHancock that seemed to fix it!! It started working when I moved the shutter to anything past 1 second (the yellow numbers) but then wouldn’t work if I tried it on something like 1/60 or 1/125 which is where I’m usually shooting. Then when I took the lens off and spun the shutter dial a few times and reattach the lens, it worked!
How do you put it on A there’s a little silver metal blocking the knob to turn on A
Lift up the ring on the outside of the shutter knob and that will let you move it to "A".
I’ve just received a bulk package of expired film and some are requiring a .8 ISO. Is that possible for the F1n? I would greatly appreciate any tips! Thank you!
It is but with a bit of work. What you'll want to do is use the camera in manual mode. Then set your meter to the slowest ISO setting, which is 6. Then for every time you cut that ISO number in half you need to add a stop of light. So you'll take a meter reading at 6 ISO and let's say that it's 1/30th of a second at your lens' largest aperture (smallest number.) You then need to adjust the shutter speed one setting for each added stop of light -- 6 to 3 ISO is one stop, 3 to 1.5 ISO is two stops, 1.5 to 0.8 ISO is three stops. So you need to add three stops of light -- 1/30 to 1/15 is one stop, 1/15th to 1/8 is two stops, 1/8 to 1/4 is three stops. So your meter will say, for instance, 1/30th but you rally need 1/4. You can adjust this with either the shutter or aperture or a combination of both. With the shutter it's very easy to just add three clicks of light from the metered shutter speed. I was doing this exact same thing last week with my F-1 and some 1.5-ISO film. It's not easy, even in full daylight, to shoot 0.8 ISO film.
@@DavidHancock Thank you so much for all this information! I really appreciate it and will let you know how the film comes out! Thank you!
I recently got my F1. I noticed that when the back is open the shutter speeds match the shutter speed dial, but with the back closed they don't. Act sort of randomly. Is something wrong? My original F1 does not exhibit this behavior.
I also noticed that the mirror is not always fast to rise but is fast to lower. That was something that wasn't an issue the first few times I tested it when it first arrived a few weeks back? The camera is in otherwise mint condition. Sadly, the seller damaged the shutter (minor dent) before shipping. It seems to be light-tight otherwise and function properly (again with the back closed). Not sure why it behaves differently with the back closed (i.e. normal operation).
Those are both curious and worrying faults, I won't lie. The first one I have no idea what causes that and it's perplexing. There's no connection I'm aware of between the parts involved, which makes me suspect there's a short within the camera somewhere and that it only, for some reason I don't understand, occurs when the film back is closed. The mirror issue is likely gummy mechanical components. The likely remedy for that is a repair. If you're in the U.S., I'd send Vermont Camera Works an e-mail and see if they think it's economical to repair it.
@@DavidHancock after messing with the camera some more, I found that it's not that the camera back being open helps but that the camera is pointing down that allows it to fire properly. Basically, when the back was open, I was pointing the lens to the floor to better handling and it fired properly. I feel the mirror mechanism was getting a gravity assist. After a few shots it will fire properly when upright at random, especially after a few successful shots. All this screams gumming up of some kind as you noted.
Otherwise everything works fine, and the shutter, while having a slight dent on the right curtain, is light tight. Hopefully a CLA will help. I've heard great things about a retired Canon tech in California. His name escapes me at the moment, but I will add Vermont camera to the list.
I took the battery door off to put in a new battery and now it won’t go back on. I’m not sure how it even stays on there in the first place. Nothing seems to click into place
It's fiddly. There's a button on the bottom that can be helpful to push as you pop the door back in. The first thing it to slide the little tabs on the skinny end of the door into their little slots next to the lens mount. Then the door just goes into place. I almost always hold the release button down as I place the door on because that makes it seat a bit better.
Is this one really that bad? Should I try to sell this one for the older model since it seems more mechanically well built?
Mostly personal preference. I much preferred the older model for a lot of reasons. But many people prefer this one. So ultimately whichever you choose you'll likely enjoy using and it comes down to features and shooting preferences.
The first and last made by ATG/Canon was Canon New F-1 (1984 Summer Olympics).
There were actually six versions:
1.F-1
2. F-1n
3. New F-1
4. ATG 1984 Summer Olympics (includes AE Finder FN, Motor Drive & Battery Pack
5. ATG 1984 New F-1 High Speed Motor Drive (includes AE Finder FN, Speed Finder FN with drive)
6. ATG Navy & SAS
After those, ATG & Canon changed to EOS with EF mount with ATG Canon EOS-1 was born.
More of ATG, you have to jump to Contax & Rolleiflex:
A. Contax AX
B. Contax RTS II
C. Contax RTX III
D. Contax 645
E. Rolleiflex 3000
F. Rolleiflex 3003
Thank you!
The Canon shutter squeak ( which is actually the mirror bearing that needs lubricating ) only occurs on the Canon A-series cameras David, F1s never do it.
Thank you! I didn't realize that was limited to the A series. I thought these had the same shutter mechanism as the A cameras.
@@DavidHancock No the F series shutters are made of Titanium foil and are of pro-quality , they are completely different and more expensive to produce, the A series shutters are consumer grade and rubberized silk. It isn't the shutter on the A series that squeaks it's the mirror bearing
The whole New F-1 system has a lifetime lubrication, which don't detoriate. Canon used NASA lubricants to ensure working from -40°C to 60°C with the same precision. Additionally all electronics are sealed with a special coating against moisture.
@@mugshot749 Agree. But that's an easy fix (DIY). Several videos available on RUclips
Is this shutter problem common to New F-1? This makes me thinking that New F-1 is not as reliable as Nikon F3.
I haven't used many of these but I've read a number of reports of the issue, yes. It should be easily fixed, though. I tend to like the F3 a lot more than this camera.
The "A" on the shutter release stands for advance not active.
Thank you!
You're welcome David
Hmmmm I think David is right. If you check the user manuals for A-1 or F-1 New, L is for the "Lock" position and A is called "the A position". Hence, it is logical to say that it stands for active.
Thanks for pointing out the hidden flaws of this camera. I'll stick to the original F-1.
Any time. The original is also my preference, though I do understand why people like this one more.
80's era electronics hasn't been kind to all cameras. My New F-1 still operates strong and it's not as fragile as Canon's consumer A-series cameras which where known for issues which rarely affect the New F-1.
HI David, i discored your channel few days ago. i really like how simple you can explain things. here for the Canon F1 you have 3 different version: the F1... the F1-N and the new F1, the one you are showing here. take care. I have all 3 generation... bulk tank! hehe. again nice videos
here is a complete website dedcated to the F1 generation. in french but thanks to transalation esay to understand. enjoy reading
Than you!
That New F1 needs CLA on the internal mechanisms (film advance is controlled on the bottom, probably a lever that gets stuck due to old oil). Regarding the meter, probably a switch that has some surface corrosion.
What is puzzling to me about this camera is that its both fully mechanical and fully electronic at the same time (its like and old F1 and A1 cobbled together) . Really the F3 was better approach of being fully electronic with limited mechanical functionality.
I agree and that's why I have an F3 still, but not this camera.
Why did Canon name their flagship professional camera the with the letter F, which was also in use by the even more famous and used flagship professional camera of their competition? Wouldn't that confuse people?
I have often wondered that, too. What's nuts to me is that Olympus released the M-1 and was promptly sued by Leica. Canon released the F-1 and was promptly ... ignored ... by Nikon. Maybe because Nikon had the F and never an F-1.
@@DavidHancock Nikon had F, F2, F3, F4 etc while Canon had F-1. Crazy. Someone should have told Canon there are other letters in the alphabet. Nikon were first with the F.
Hey just to clarify... F1n is not the new f1, it's the old F1 but with some changes :)
Thank you!
@@DavidHancock no thank you for the video!
I think I should sell my Canon T90 and invest in a Canon F-1 old. Older mechanical cameras seem more reliable. The F-1new and T90 are electronic nightmares to even fix let alone any good spare parts left for them. I loved using the T90 it was working fine until I got obsessed and had the broken strap lug replaced which made the viewfinder exposure LED info malfunction. I need to narrow down my camera collection.
More and more, I don't shoot many cameras with a light meter. I've been shooting the OM-4 a LOT lately and love it, but I'm also shooting an Anniversary Graphic (with slide film sheets, too!) and I'm finding that a meter is less and less important. The older F-1's battery only runs the meter, so if you don't get one that has a voltage modifier in it then you can still use it a-okay without a battery (or with a dead battery.) I am increasingly less impressed by most late-eighties and early-to-mid-nineties cameras. I definitely think that the original F-1 is better than the T90 for a lot of reasons, though the T90 is super capable and there's a really good case that many people could make that it's the best FD mount camera. Shoot what makes you happy. That's the most important part. A camera that you don't like won't be used and it's a waste of space and a hindrance to creativity.
David Hancock good thinking David thanks for your input. For now I just have my trusty Canon Ftbn to use for all my FD lenses.
For a photographer your lighting is diabolical. Same as when you did the Mamiya RB67.
Video and still lighting are different arts. It would be like expecting a podiatrist to be a competent neurosurgeon just because both field require surgical expertise.
As an Canon user thru many years (I had my first A1 back in 82) I find your instructions good. A few things to contemplate:
Your voice, maybe in post production put a filter on the high frequencies. I can hear you are an enthusiast, but please slow down, you tend to jump around when you get to the parts that REALLY interests you.
As you say your self, studio light, please if you can afford it one more, mounted somewhere around your recording device.
When you make these videos you can not help making ups´s (nobody makes perfects videos), don´t worry, make them correct them and tell about it, like "you need to do so to get it to do this ..... hmmm sorry you have to do it like that.
Greetings from Denmark
Thank you!
The "A" in Canon cameras means "Advance"
Thank you!
The original F-1 and New F-1 was probably the best manual focus SLR Canon made. I think this video should be updated with a model without the issues.
If I ever get one of these without issues, I'd be happy to re-do it with a good one. However, I have yet to get get an F-1N without issues. The original F-1 bodies I've gotten (which is many times more than the new) have all be perfectly functional.
This comment made before watching the video...fingers crossed...please don't drop it!
not until the Mamiya ZE-X video, I promise. Unless I drop one before then.
It's a "New F-1" not "F-1n/F-1 New", Canon has an actual "F-1n" model which is a little improvement of "F-1" and it's look identical.
Thank you
It is NOT the F-1N !!!! ... it's the New F-1 !!!!! F-1N does also exist as the F-1 who came out 1976 !!
Timeline 00:27 .... what we have here is ... New F-1 on the left .... F-1N on the right !!
Yep, I goofed on that.
It is NOT the F1-N (F1 new) what you are showing is the new-F1. This is not the same!
Yes, thank you. I misstated that.
Who said they’re plastic parts or gears in the New F-1?
New F-1 (1981) was a refinement of the F-1N (1976). Not a step up.
The ‘camera squeak’ ONLY applies to the A series. Period.
I almost always do a partial disassembly on cameras out of curiosity.
,and your F-1N is broken!
Sometimes these old cameras are.