Canon F-1N (F-1 New) Video Manual 2 of 2
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- Опубликовано: 8 июн 2024
- The Canon F-1N overhauled the F-1's design and brought a number of advancements and design changes that Canon had implemented on A-series cameras like the AE-1. This meant that the F-1N was a lighter camera than the F-1 and that it also had more internal components made of plastic. The upside was that the F-1N had more features and capabilities than the original F-1, however.
This video is the second of two about the F-1N and details how to use each of the camera's interface elements. The video also shows the process for taking a photo and the process for taking a double exposure.
Link to the Review Video:
• Canon New F-1 35mm Fil...
Link to Video 1:
• Canon F-1N (F-1 New) V...
Video Index:
Skip the Intro: 0:15
Mounting and Unmounting the Lenses on the Canon F-1N: 0:29
Loading and Unloading Film in the Canon F-1N: 1:47
Changing the Battery (PX28) in the Canon F-1N: 5:51
Flash Photography with the Canon F-1N: 7:52
Canon F-1N Metering Modes and Focusing Screen Metering Codes: 10:44
Normal, Hold, Light Metering Mode Dial on the Canon F-1N: 16:54
EV Compensation: 17:50
How to Read the Canon F-1N Meter: 21:45
How to take a photo with the Canon F-1N: 26:11
Taking a Double Exposure with the Canon F-1N: 27:19
An Invitation to Like and Subscribe: 30:03
References:
www.butkus.org/chinon/canon/c...
www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/...
www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/...
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_N...
www.photo.net/discuss/threads...
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Video Capture and Film Digitization- Pentax K-3 (www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/englis...) or Pentax K-1 (www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/englis...)
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Wayyyyy more thorough than other videos on the F-1N (and much appreciated). Thank you for all that you do!
Thank you!
@@DavidHancock P.S. I stumbled across your video after seeing an F-1 on Facebook Marketplace in a listing titled simply "camras." Purchased said F-1 today for $60. It's in flawless shape, with no brassing or mechanical issues. 😎
Hi David, A most thorough review. Thank you so much for featuring the Canon F-1N in your tutorial series. Much appreciated.
Thank you, Aristo!
Yes, I have the basic Canon F1 in my collection, a very solid and substantial camera. Thanks for the 2 videos which are very helpful. You actually helped me out on one point but I am to ashamed to say what it was.
Thank you!
If it was how to get the camera into automatic mode, I shot (my first) two whole rolls of film with this thinking it was in auto mode when it was set to 1/2,000th. There are a lot of really easy ways with this camera to accidentally mess up a setting.
Thanks for the video,just bought a F-1n and this video was very informative!
Thank you!
Back in early 80sI wanted one, with all the additions but no way I could afford it, finished with an A1 that I still have to this day. This video made me hanker after one again.
I would take an A-1 over the F-1 New.
I and my gf recently bought one F1N and we're totally new to film cameras. The two videos really helped a lot, thanks!
21:23 about the exposure compensation, we've tried to take 3 photos with F1N outside, in full manual mode, the first one with f/11 + 1/250 s + no compensation (+0 EV), the second one with f/11 + 1/250 s + 1/4 compensation (-2 EV), the third one with f/11 + 1/1000 s + 1/4 compensation. We found that the meter needle rises about 2 stops (from f/11 to f/22) when we dialed from 1 to 1/4 compensation but then fell back to match the aperture circle after decreasing the shutter speed. After scanning film, it turns out the first one is almost as bright as the second one, while the third one is apparently darker than the other two. It seems to me the compensation only affects the meter needle. We still need to adjust manually to achieve different brightness.
It's a shame the normal/hold/light dial on our camera is worn out we couldn't turn it by any means, we're really curious what would the illuminated viewfinder look like =D.
Thank you! And correct. In full manual mode compensation will only adjust the meter reading. With all cases in full manual, it's up to you to select the actual exposure settings.
Wonderful video, thank you.
Thank you!
This has been so bloody helpful. Thank you so much!!!
Thank you!
So much good information in both videos thank you for taking the time to make them .
Thank you!
Very informative. I look forward to putting it to use.
Thank you!
Great video as always!
Thank you!
Great videos 1 and 2. Now I just have to wait for my F-1N to arrive
Great camera and good choice!
Kudos to you sir for this very informative video.
Thank you!
awesome video
Thank you!
nice camera david top review buddy
Thank you, Beau!
Thank you
Thank you!
I especially wanted to see the different ways the metering system would show apertures and exposure times in the different (auto/manual) modes. I'm used to my old Canon EF, that also shows time and aperture in it's auto mode. But info on how the F1 works isn't all that readily available. Thanks for making this clear.
Thank you and you're welcome, Peter!
Hi there, excellent tutorial- thank you. 22-26’ wrt the meter behavior is particularly useful. Question: how does that exposure setting process change when using FL lenses? Thanks
Thank you! For FL lenses, you'll set the aperture and use stop-down metering to obtain a meter reading. This is easiest in full manual mode. Close the aperture on the FL lens with the DoF preview button, adjust the shutter speed to obtain a meter reading you want, and then take the photo. At apertures smaller than f/8, add a stop of light to compensate for the sensitivity range that old light meters had.
Thank you for making this video. The information presented was very helpful! I just have a quick question. When shooting multiple exposures, is it normal for the film counter to advance for every exposure? I can't seem to find any information about this anywhere. Thanks!
Thank you! I think so. I sold this camera a couple years ago but I seem to recall it doing that, yes.
@@DavidHancock Thank you for responding! It’s good to know that my camera is not broken. Just sucks that I have to manually keep track of the film counter whenever I want to do multiple exposure.
Good presentation. I am considering an F series. I have anA1 .
Thank you! The older F-1 I like more, but I don't fault anyone for preferring this camera.
Hey David, first off, thank you for this series. It helped me with my first F-1. I got rid of it a while ago and recently bought another one. However, there's a problem with this one. I am trying to use aperture priority mode and while it works but, the shutter speed scale and the aperture display aren't showing up. I came back to this video in case I might have missed one of the conditions for the display to not show. I was wondering if you had any thoughts to what might have gone wrong? Could it be a problem with the prism? I do have an AE prism and I do have my dial set to A. Plus I have my lens at manual aperture control.
Thank you, A.P.! I sold this almost a year ago so I can't reference it right now, but from memory, that sounds like a fault in the prism. So there are a couple of things you can try to identify the cause.
1- Clean the contacts for the prism and the camera body contacts with rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab. If they're dirty, that can impair function.
2- Grab a flash light or your cell phone lamp and shine it into the prism's light entry window while looking through the eyepiece. It's possible that it's just too dark to see the shutter scale if you're inside.
If both of those fail but the camera still works properly, you can go with it as is or invest in a non-metered prism (I believe there were some options along this line for these) and use it in full manual mode.
Hi David. That was really informative and I love how you went in depth with the camera. I do, however, have a question. What happens when you put the aperture on auto and the shutter speed on auto as well? Does it shoot in program mode like the Canon AE1P?
Good question and no. This doesn't have program mode. IIRC, it shoots only at the lens' smallest aperture.
Thank you so much for these videos! I have two questions about the flash sync settings if you don' t mind me asking. Whilst on the flash icon on the shutter wheel, will the camera automatically decide which shutter speed to use? If so, what's informing that decision?
And..... (three questions I guess) I found out my godox wireless transmitter for fuji x actually works for triggering my off camera flash, in theory, would it be possible to work out my exposure using my mirrorless camera and then just attaching the trigger to the F-1N and using the same settings? With the shutter set to 1/60th for example. Cheers from a newbie in Sweden!
Thank you! I can answer those.
1 & 2- For the flash sync speed, that's a fixed speed. When you set it there that shutter will trigger at the fastest speed the flash can be used at. I forget that off the top of my head, but it's not variable.
3-It would, yes. What you'd want to do in that case is ensure your flashes all have manual setting inputs. Your hot shoe on this is basic and will only tell the RF to send a fire signal. Then the flashes will go at whatever they are set for. You'll need to dial in the power and, if applicable, zoom manually. That way when they receive the command to fire they do so at he right settings.
Your videos are great mate.I own myself a Canon f1n and i am looking to buy a flash.Had one question though.I cant really understand what sync speed represents.I understood that i can go for a slower shutter speed if i wished to,can i go for a faster one though?Would also appreciate if you could give me a few flash options so i can look to.(had my eye on the Metz Mecablitz 45 CL-4 )
Thank you, and the flash speed is the fastest available. Anything faster and you won't have a complete image. For specific flashes, I don't have a specific recommendation. Basically any flash will work, however. I'd go for a simpler one, however, because this camera can't use all the fancy features on complex flashes. Look for one with a rotating and tilting head and manual power controls.
Hello, thank you so much for your video. I’ve just bought a canon new f1- in very good condition, but nothing appearing in focusing screen. Do I need to replace a new finder?
What do you see when you look through the viewfinder? Is it just black?
Hi David. Is it possible for certain types of focusing screens to prevent needle metering from performing correctly? I’m new to the F-1N and interchangeable focusing screens are a first for me. I’m more familiar with the Ftb. I’m thinking either my meter needs calibrating or my issue stems from the type of lens I’m using.
Also, which focusing screen would you say works best for general use but also does the job when shooting AE and at night? The focusing screen currently in use is an SB.
Yes, it is, actually. That's a good and astute question. I forget if this camera's screens can affect metering or not (there should be a guide online or in the manual linked in the video's description that indicates if exposure compensation is needed for any screens or if any screens are incompatible with certain lenses.) In general, the best all-around screens are the grid and plain matte. That holds up for any camera. The prism screens that are the standard in many cameras have issues with lenses that have a maximum aperture of f/5.6 or smaller as well as at night. Which screen is the SB? I thought all the F-1N screens were P-something.
If I’m interpreting the manual correctly, I believe SB is spot metering / new split. It also states that the spot metering system is unsuitable for AE photography.
Thanks for the help! But when I switch to aperture priority, and “light mode” the bottom doesn’t light up but the view finder lights up in manual mode. Is that normal!?
Thank you! I just sold this camera a couple of weeks ago. I seem to recall that both of the displays have windows (different windows) in the prism for illumination. I used to have an issue with illumination of one of the two (I forget which) when my hat brim would cover the window pane. So it could either be something like that or it could be that an internal mirror that directs light from the window to one of the displays is out of alignment (that happened to me on a different camera.)
For you info seein how you are doing a review on the canon F1 and how to mount lenses..... the Silver ring lens is the world famous Canon FD breach mount.
Yes. That's correct. Thank you.
Hi David, I really enjoyed this video. I'm going to pick up an F1 because of this in depth review. Thank you so much.
Question; the F1 has an aperture priority mode in which it automatically changes the aperture based on shutter speed. Is there an additional accessory needed for this? Could you provide some thoughts about this? Cheers!
Thank you! For aperture priority, I think the only thing you need is the prism with it. I forget for sure because I sold this camera earlier this year. I can't recall for certain if Av is part of the camera's body or part of the prism, but I do think it's in the prism.
Hey,
Yes! For Aperture Priority, you will need the AE Finder FN prism. For the Shutter Priority, you will need to attach either the Canon AE motor drive or the Canon AE motor winder
very informative! shame about our camera issue, made me laugh how you tried to keep calm.
did you ever repaired it?
Thank you and not yet yet. I think that the repair might be one I can do myself, but I've had a number of higher-priority repairs to do and not a whole lot of free time.
David, I really think this is the film camera I want to buy, but the film advance issue you experience with yours makes me very hesitant. Is it a common malady with this camera?
I'm not 100% certain how common it is. My best suggestion is to buy this from an established, known, and reliable camera seller that will provide support if needed.
The chrome ringed lenses are called breech lock lenses, those lenses are often heavier and do not have as good lens coatings as the neewer FDn lenses !
Thank you!
Hey! Not sure if you still respond to comments in older videos, but I just got a canon f1 New and everything is great on it, except two things. When I try to do double exposures and press and turn the little "R" knob next to the shutter dial, the film counter still goes up. The other thing is that when I take off the finder, the focusing screen is inverted. Unsure if this is part of the design or I might need to return the camera.
Nice camera! Also, both of those are normal.
@@DavidHancock Oh well, Im gonna have to get used to both of those things since I've previously used the canon AE-1p
I have a mint f-1 new in perfect condition but as I turn on the A mode I see the bottom scale but I don’t see the needle moving. When I’m on full manual the light meter and the needle from the vertical scale works fine, but no needle appears on the bottom one I A mode. I tried to use the lens on stop down metering and I also took an image with the A mode but still no movement of the needle. Is it possibile that the bottom needle is broken? Can I fix it someway or do I need to buy another full pentaprism?
The first thing I'd check is that you have a fresh battery and that it's installed correctly. If yes, try cleaning the contacts on the prism and body with 91% isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab. If it's still not working, if you're outside with your ISO set to 400 and the aperture at 16, with the sun to your back the shutter speed should be around 1/400-500th of a second. If the meter isn't reading that then you may need to seek a professional repair as there are a number of possible issues it could be.
I used to have one of these canon cameras in 1980s and they are heavy and are a good cameras To buy
Definitely yes.
@ 23:40 the aperture value is not visible if you use breech lock FD lenses. You will only the see a small part of the silver ring.
Thank you!
I don't have a F-1 but thought shutter priority auto mode is only available if a motor drive is attached. Is that true? The logic being that it takes more power to change aperture (as that needs a motor) than to change shutter speed (done electronically), and that extra power is provided by the motor drive battery. People who need shutter priority are mainly sports photographers who are likely to use a motor drive anyway.
I don't think that the motor drive is required for shutter priority, no. I used shutter priority without a motor drive attached when I was taking photos with this camera.
@@DavidHancock Odd, because the Canon brochure I have implies that it is required. The page is here : www.lucan.org.uk/Photos/IMGP4668_s.jpg . The top of the RH page says "Starting out from manual exposure ... Use of an AE Finder FN will convert it for aperture priority AE photography; the addition of an AE Motor Drive FN or an AE Power Winder FN ... gives you shutter priority AE". Also, one of the bullet points on the left says it _can_ be used without batteries for shutter speeds from X to 1/2000.
I just got this same camera and it’s so hard to rewind the film. Even if I press the (R) button and the button on the bottom of the camera at the same time, the rewind mechanism is so hard. I’ve even broken a roll trying to rewind ☹️. Is this issue fixable with a CLA?
Possibly. Your rewind is definitely not engaging correctly. First thing to check is, with the camera back open, hold the rewind button and spin the film tension sprocket toward the film cassette chamber. If it doesn't spin, and you have the rewind button pushed all the way in, then it's a mechanical issue that needs a professional repair. If it does spin, then the button may not have been fully engaged when the film was rewound.
Does the light metering work like the AE-1? Where if you half press it, it will give you the recommended aperture? Because if that’s the case my F1 doesn’t seem to give me the recommended aperture reading when I half press, the ‘lollipop’ meter does give me the aperture I am set on though. Is this normal?
This is with me manually selecting my shutter speed and aperture
It's been a couple of years since I sold this camera, but going from memory I think there are two needles, a lollipop and a pointer. One should indicate what you're set to and the other what you should be set to. Does that sound correct?
@@DavidHancock Yes it does. Thank you for the reply. It looks like my light meter works on some moments and the other it doesn't. I have it at the shop now so here's hoping they can fix it
can you take off the prism and use it as a waist-level viewfinder?
You can but there's a risk of light passing the mirror and fogging the film.
Can i use focusing screen that don't have letter fn in screen's body? I use New F-1. And i wanna know that i can use both screen, Fn and not Fn.
You will need to use the screens for the F-1 New
@@DavidHancock You say only Fn? Ok! Thank you very much!
I have an AE finder. When I set the shutter speed to "A" (aperture priority), there is no display at the bottom of the viewfinder except the aperture window. Why is that?
The AE finders are a bit tenchy as they've aged. Mine periodically does not display at the bottom. I've found it's more common after taking the prism off the camera and in cold weather, but those are only correlations. I would chalk a lot of it up to the electronics being around 40 years old and likely not having been designed to last that long.
@@DavidHancock Thank you!
If the AE prism is removed and replaced with the shutter speed dial set to "A" the shutter speed display will not appear. To cause the display to re-appear, with the prism attached, rotate the shutter speed dial off of "A" to "2000" and then return it to "A" which will cause the protruding pin on the shutter speed dial to engage the sensing linkage on the underside of the finder arm, shifting it inward, thus activating the shutter speed display mechanism.
Your New F1 David needs to have the wind on mechanism serviced.
Thank you. I let the new owner know that when he bought it, yes.
Have you ever owned a tiny Rollei 35?
I have not. They tend to be outside my price range, unfortunately, because they look neat.
@@DavidHancock There are several different iterations. I believe the f2.8 models are sought after, but really not very usable since you have to do zone focusing. Other models are more affordable, and I think the Singapore made ones are more affordable than German made ones.
Man oh man, that was hillarius, last video you could hardly make it fail, this video you could hardly make it work, I like that you did not cut that out, and your frustrations *lol*
On the sprocket axle, it is that one that feels when you have wound a full frame I have been told.
Thank you and I think that helps people recognize when their cameras aren't working and see what's going on.
For the sprocket wheel, I don't think so. That just spins one direction, the film advance directio, until released for rewinding. The camera will let you know that the film is done when the film advance won't move further.
The magnet that cocks the shutter might be dirty thats why it wont stay
I hadn't thought of that. Thank you. I'll take it apart this week and clean the magnet.
@@DavidHancock Yeah, my AE-1 P had that problem and that was it.
Wish you used a small aperture for this video. Painful to watch on a big TV with such a shallow depth of field.
I could have, but then the high-ISO digital noise from what would have been around 12,800 ISO would have been painful to watch. I chose shallow DoF over digital noise. There's always going to be that trade off, unfortunately.
This is how rotten and low my life has turned out -- watching reruns of David Hancock videos. I don't know who to feel more sorry for...me or David.
After rewatching some F1 videos, I decided to pull out my own F1 New (not F1 N, David) and finger it some more; after all, it's the most awesome camera ever made and needed some much deserved lovin'. To my horror, after running it through its many features and options, I discovered the mirror starting to hang up. The it continuously persisted to do so. Because it's the most awesomest-est camera ever made, I was left with only one conclusion...that David Hancock is directly at fault and to blame for this tragedy. I now must send this camera off to be serviced and brought back to factory-new condition, hence, its moniker "F1 New."
I will be invoicing you, David, when I get my camera back. The pain and suffering you have caused me will most certainly be unaffordable to you on your limited RUclips income. Your coffee and bowtie budget will surely suffer tremendously.
P.S. I thought your video was an outtake comedy until I saw that it droned on and on and on....
It's long-form comedy.
You have the "New" F1. The F1N is like the Original F1, except that the ASA goes to 3200, instead of 1600. It also has a plastic tip on the film advance lever. The shutter is fully mechanical, and it has the same DOF lever on front of the body. The "New" F1 has a battery compartment on front of the body, and no DOF lever.
Thank you!
Bet you and many don't have ATG's Rolleiflex 3000 & Rolleiflex 3003 or Contax 645.
ATG shook up the world in photography when the ATG's Contax 645 was the preferred over Hasselblad 500's.
Hasselblad was not happy. Followed by the downfall of Hasselblad.
And going into the history book on all film camera.
ATG/Shirro & ATG/Asia now own Hasselblad and DJI
Back to ATG's Canon New F-1 information:
A. It's just a manual camera
B. To become Aperture Preferred with manual, an AE Finder FN is needed
C. To get Shutter Preferred with manual, a AE Power Winder or a AE Motor Drive FN is needed
D. Aperture Preferred, Shutter Preferred & Manual, you required #B and #C
ATG was very upset with Canon, when Canon's photographers got scammed and found the hard way, that the camera CAN NOT be set into Shutter Preferred.
ATG, Russ Adam, Ken Rockwell & many sport photographers were very maddddddd.
"A" denoted to ATG
"AL" denoted to "L" lenses, the 'A' was dropped.
A-1 denoted as ATG is 1 [like the father, (OM-1: Olympus & Maitani are #1); M-1 (Maitani is #1)]
AE-1 denoted as ATG Electronic #1
Thank you again! These are insights I had never heard.
@@DavidHancock I had my Contax AX by ATG, modified to use Canon FD lenses.
The Contax AX was the world's first that can do AF with full manual lenses.
ATG Contax AX-FD was the world's first that uses Canon FD lenses.
I was told that ATG started with small 35mm format then grew into the medium format to competed/surpassed the Hasselblad series with ATG/Zeiss AF lenses.
The Contax 645 was the first camera without the "A"
And all that rant about MF cameras have what connection to a 24x36mm camera?
@@sidewind131258 It's just about history of 35mm to medium format photography.
Basically, the bigger the film sizes & the better the print results.
During when my uncle, Ansel Adams (ours friend, I was a baby) and I, mostly them, we usually printed 10" x 10" on 60mm x 60mm film.
And I carried & used his ATG's Rolleiflex 3003 (24mm x 36mm) printed 8" x 10", the images were never as good for our NASA, Ford & VIPs.
Sometimes, we (Uncle Ansel likes bigger format) would used 8 X 10 or bigger format.
@@angelisone But ofcourse the MF camera gives better resolution than a 24x36mm, just as a 8x10" gives a better resolution than a 6x6.
What I still can not understand is why you compare a MF or 8x10" to a 24x36 camera, it is like comparing a Bugatti Veyron to a Ford T, they are both cars/cameras but that aside, they are totally incomparable
Its not a F1-N its a New F-1.
The names are interchangeable. KEH, for instance, calls it the F-1N. Wikipedia calls it the New F-1. That's why the video title has both.
you shouldn't be reviewing a defective camera without having the experience of a fully working one before (which apparently is your case) this is very misleading. As a canon F1 new user for many years i just don't relate to many of the things you referred to as issues or as something to consider. the problem is that someone seeing this video and never had used the camera before might get a wrong idea.
The only F-1N I had on hand has a winding issue. And yes, it's common in this model. Having had and used other F-1 bodies, I have experience with this camera and the problems that it can encounter. And, frankly, if people get the idea that this camera is not as robustly made as earlier F-1 bodies or the Nikon F3 and Pentax LX that were contemporaries of this camera, that's not the wrong idea at all.
@@DavidHancock i have had 3 nikon f3 fucked up with the same issue unreliable shutter at the slower speeds, still i would consider misleading to review one of this F3 cameras for a video guide, the idea is to show the camera in the proper way it works and if there's some kind of issue that commonly happen to them mention it.
So I should expect to see you in a few weeks when I upload my Nikon FE video and note that it took me ten copies of that camera to find one that is in any measure reliable? Or in the my existing FE2 video where I note that I had to have the shutters replaced on a number of those because the shutters have a propensity to jam? Or in my Nikon FA video where I note that the electronics are unreliable (including in the one I used for that video.) Old cameras break. They develop faults and flaws and the F-1N's advance issue is particularly common. It's fair to say I've never seen an F-1N that works the same as it did (I hope) when it was new, and none that have worked without some kind of flaw. The one in this video also has electronics issues as well as advance issues. Yes, I understand your point about the camera not working perfectly; were I to only do demonstrations on cameras that work perfectly, I could not use the common flaws in the cameras I make manuals for to demonstrate how to work around them. If I had an F-1N that worked perfectly in this video and someone had one with the electronics or advance issues, I would be of no use to them in learning how to keep using their cameras despite those flaws. The F-1N model, in general, has not aged well and showing people how to keep these cameras limping along despite their increasingly common failures is an important part of helping people who otherwise do not yet have the film experience and knowledge needed to recognize those flaws not become discouraged by thinking their cameras' flaws are their own. If gear doesn't perform well, it's easy to become discouraged. My goal is to help people by preventing them from being discouraged by faulty gear by showing them workarounds when I can.
@@DavidHancock : What you considered to be a winding issue was actually designed to accommodate the high speed motor drive. The clutch in the rewind crank prevents the knob from spinning when the film moves forward at any speed. This could really hurt if it's against your face.
You good sir, are a royal pain in the *ss, the thing with a malfunctioning F1new is that David shows that it can happen, and a way to mitigate the problem. May I assume that you are one of those "perfect" photographers that never makes mistakes ? If so congratulations and god riddens