Man thank you for taking the time to film this I know it would have taken a hell of a lot less time to just do it and not film. Very informative videos on your channel. Greatly appreciate it!
Your videos are great! You will have more subscribers soon. I really appreciate the hard work you put into these videos. The editing, the in depth detail on everything and your personality makes the videos really enjoyable to watch! 👍👍
I'm about to do my Toyota minivan, and then insulation, and hardwood floor. Camper adventures this summer! No more sitting in my sweaty apartment all summer!
Reflexix insulation comes in 2' and 4' x 25 ' or 50. Works great as a membrane. 3/8 thick buble wrap with Mylar on both sides only passes3% of heat thru the membrane. Cuts with scissors attached with double sided tape. Seal joints with clear shipping tape. Do front floor boards transmission hump. Outer doorskins etc.
I got 75 square feet of the rattletrap. The stuff is very easy to use and I didn't have to use a heat gun. So far I've done the roof, back fenders, cargo space, and two of the doors and it is quieter. Planning to do the floors as well. The instructions say that you can double layer the stuff if necessary.
Thinking about doing this for my 87' Chevy G20 Sportvan that was sent to Infinity conversions after it rolled off the showroom floor and givin the snazzy 80s paint job wuth pun stripes and a fiber glass headliner set up with over head speaker pods and strip lights and a over head mounted CB radio with lots of toggle switches for the custom lights . In other words lots of crap to remove to get to the sheet metal to deaden the interior noises . I'm looking to do a restoration job on it and put in a freshly rebuilt classic 68' 327cid V8 thats a total performance beast . Fortunately the original 305 has a unibracket that will work on the 327 that doesn't have the heads tapped for bracket mounting bolts . Anyways aside from my rambling ,big vehicles really need some sound deadening especially the older ones . I've used liquid foam that you can get at the hardware store and put it in between the panels and wherever I hear rattling where panels join . It's worked really well but this is a much better solution especially if you have a bumping sound system or have lousy insulation which most seem to have . Nothing worse than hearing a subwoofer bumping all the metal loose or trying to sleep in a hail/ rain storm in the van with no sound deadening . Sounds like your getting hit with meteors it's so loud 😨😱😁. Anyway cool video and great details that many fail to mention .
Good video. For some reason, the difference in noise reduction didn't seem as much as I expected. It's either just me or maybe much of the noise is coming through the windows. Don't know! But it's really an informative helpful video. Thanks for a great job. Salaam.
Good and informative video, even as an older post. Good job. Yes it is easier to work with smaller strips. 👍 However, in my opinion, I would have work around the outside perimeter first and the crossmembers (setting up a border) then work towards the center of each section/ zone. Just like when you were younger coloring in a coloring book. You work the outside lines, then fill in the the rest of the inside. If the crossmembers are only attached on the left & right ends, could have place then plastic or wooded wedges to hold a gap open (just enough to place the sound mat between the roof and the crossmembers). Use the wooden wedges they use to shim doors or windows during construction in homes. Get them at the big box stores or local hardware stores.
Brother you are Solid trust me when Car Audio Guys use this stuff when the bass hits at 150+ DB the sound you hear when you palm slap it like a deep thudding bass sound is better then Stock where any noise sounds like the Wizard of Oz Tin Mans Nuts Chattering against his knees when scared Lmao .. Trust Me your set up perfect and you will also love the fact when you get better speakers the sound inside Sounds Wayyyyy better and the Road Noise will be a lot less so that's a little extra to think about in value you get when doing this
Did this help keep heat down at all you think? I’m about to replace my headliner and wondering if this is worth the $. I’m more worried about temps than noise
Trying to tilt your head while driving down the road sucks with a bare metal scorching roof. I hate when its raining outside then the jeep starts raining condensation inside.
It's been perfectly fine. No smell, no sag, just as good as day 1. It's a pain to peel it off if you need to work under the panels, but that just means it does it's job well.
Hi Nick,I was wondering if you are still happy with this product. Did it smell at all, especially in the summer. Also I was wondering if it droops/drools as some amazon review stated? Would you do it again? And would you do anything different?ThanksMadDogXJ.
There really wasn't any smell to recall after a day or two, and I haven't had any droop issues, that stuff is super sticky. I'm fairly happy with it, Though I'm thinking of doing something with the floors as they still get hot and are a bit loud, so coating the trans tunnel would probably help a lot
NickInTimeFilms would love to see a floor install too 😉 Problem is that they dont ship to canada 😡 but ill look more another day. Maybe another brand. But still alot more up here. Thanks for the quick response. Keep up the good work bud.
@@NickInTimeFilms After doing the roof and doors on mine, yep, the floor and the front are the key points, also, the back panels and the door pilars, the front ones vibrates like crazy.
@@NickInTimeFilms Hey nick i was wondering if it ever started stinking like maddogxj said there is amazon reviews saying it starts smelling like tar when it gets hot outside thx
How many Jeeps would you say you have owned. I own a Jeep Patriot 2008 love it. I want to but a XJ but would it be worth buying an XJ with over 100k miles?
I've only had 2, and one is really just a lawn ordiment. Good luck trying to even find one with under 100k, probably a better shot of finding under 160k, but the engines last forever if they've had even general maintenance done to them. I'd be more inclined to look for unmodified first, but never know what you might find out there.
does it really help to keep the summer heat out a lot? I have to redo my headliner and I wanna add some stuff like this. I'm more concerned with insulation than sound deadening
it's hard to tell. I want to say its helpping with heat a bit but it's more for absorbing resonance. If you're only worried about heat, I would look more into the bubblewrap stuff that you put in your windshield. my interior temps still reach 120℉ sitting in the sun.
The only thing with fatmatt products is they are asphalt based and hold heat as well as you should spray 3m as a adhesive primer, fatmatt products will peel from the heat and the 3m will prevent that. I use to always use rattle trap till I found Siless 80mil and it butyl based and it about the same cost. Cool video.
@@NickInTimeFilms That's good, I love fatmatt products, I have heard people say they can smell it for about 6mo, but personally I have never smelled it. I have had it peel on me on the roof surface on hot days and a little in below zero temps, but once I started pre-spraying the roof or other vertical surfaces with 3m 90 professional adhesive I have never had an issue since and in fact it's near impossible to remove.
I was doing the headliner at the same time so check that video for details. Its annoying to loosen all the trim pieces and get the board out in one piece but it's doable.
I've read a lot about this stuff getting hot, falling off, and leaving pools of asphalt. (really wish I would have read all of those things before I bought it, I just went off your video and a couple reviews) How has this stuff held up in your Jeep?
Held up great, doesn't smell, doesn't droop, and does an okay job at quieting down the vibrations. this with the lizard skin undercoating has helped a decent amount, music is more audible on the highway
I want to do my roof eventually but so far the dynamat in my doors, hatch and rear walls hasn't noticeably slid or fallen off in Phoenix AZ summer so thats nice. The air here is 115+ in the shade on a little above average summer day, car interior when parked in the sun gets up above 200 degrees so I imagine the metal being kissed by the sun is cooking real good and so far so good still. Zero smell with dynamat, and the sound difference is definitely noticeable. If I could go back in time and think ahead more I would have gotten something cheaper probably(didnt really think I would end up wanting to do the whole car). I have spent $120+ (using thick dynamat)to do 4 doors, hatch, trunk walls, trunk floor, and the floor under back seat.
Teddy Monroe I was originally thinking about doing that but after reading i decided against it. The aluminium is really smooth so you'd have to rough it up a bit and find something that will stick to it. The other problem is that it's still a little mushy and will deform when you step on it hard so I feel that most coatings would eventually crack. There have been a few people that have tried it but it eventually flakes off. I'm going to look into some kind of acoustic and thermal deadening liner to put underneath the truck to see if that helps at all. I'm eyeing up Al's Liner Heat and Noise Reducer as it's cheap and seems to do what I want.
Put on an extra coat or two of bedliner instead of the deadening material and you’ll have a harder, more durable coat that does just as much sound deadening because the bedliners are typically rubberized themselves and will dampen vibes all on their own. I’ve got 72 sq ft of killmat on the way and I’m going to double up on the ceiling before I search for a replacement headliner and set of interior panels...I bought a 94 xj with the interior mostly stripped bare.
i was thinking since your floor is bed lined already its basically deadened. my thought is take some random strips of the stuff you have left over and do the firewall.
AKghandi The bedliner has very little thermal and acoustic dampening properties. It's quieter than bare metal but not my much, and just today the trans tunnel was 150*F. I'll have to do some kind of fancy undercoating at some point. I'd consider doing the firewall if it wasn't such a pain to do it proper. Pulling the whole dash is something I'd rather not do.
+grn dragon Didn't bother too much with the rear. It reduced a lot of the wind noise on the highway, but then I heard the tires more, haha. Ended up spraying some lizard skin underneath to help with that and now it's better than before. It's no cadillac, but you can hear the radio and talk to passengers when you're doing 65. haha
WJ Grand Cherokee seats. For me they were a pain since I had to make custom mounting brackets. I have an install video on them, but personally I wasn't impressed. They are too slippery on the trails, the back support wasn't great for me, and are freezing cold in the winter and burning hot in the summer. I switched to a minivan seat later and I'm happier with that overall. Also an install video on that one.
Well it did make the vibration sound lower so i would say great job :-D I think you would have to go to a lot of trouble to make it any better, every roof support would need to be packed out to remove the gaps between surfaces to stop movement. The doors would be a pain as there are components in there that would add to the noise, the window in its rubbers could slap about slightly as well. For the floor you could get a bucket of gloopy underseal and coat the underside of the car, it should help to cut the higher frequencys, if not then you have a nicely sealed floor so rust has not a chance lol :-D And if your feeling in a daft mood, cut up some old innertubes and bond them to the underside, thicker = lower resonance, but only if your in a daft mood ha ha :-D
zx8401ztv Funny you should say that because I'm highly considering some thermal/acoustic insulating liner to cover the underside of the floor pan with if the drivetrain ever gets pulled again. Might come sooner than you think, my motor is limping and begging for a rebuild.
+Nultari I got lizard skin undercoating which helped a bit. Still need a little something extra on the trans tunnel, still decently warm on long drives
i just use the windshield shades from the dollar store and stick it with aluminum duct tape 15 bucks and the whole jeep is done and it works for better than dynomat
+nekolin I'm sure it keeps the heat out real nice. I was thinking about putting some behind the headliner if I still have heat issues next summer. How's it do for sound control though?
tremendous thats actually why i first started using it we where looking for a cheap alternative to soundmatting for our sound systems and where to poor to buy any pro stuff after we grew up and had money we found out the pro stuff just wasnt as good
Wow, that seems like a bad idea. Flimsy and flammable. In the event a fire the black smoke created from dollar store-quality material would probably knock you out very quickly. Better than Dynomat? Seems dubious lol
I had one of those rollers too, they are total garbage. I've since bought one of these - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1EFKM/?tag=truckbooks-20 - wow, I highly recommend it, it's soooooo much better. p.s. I uploaded another Jeep MJ project video lately, check it out if interested in my channel.
Looking online the only description i can find is "patented rubber compound" which may be Butyl based. Even if it does have asphalt in it, it doesn't smell at all after the first couple days so I'm happy with it
NickInTimeFilms nice. glad to hear. I just got back from a trip to the badlands in indiana. have a video of it on my channel if you want to check it out. I'm actually ripping my carpet out right now as it got flooded on the trip. glad to see my floors are solid
Age of Reason he said "80 mil" not millimeter. A mil is 1 thousandth of an inch, so he was correct in saying "80 mil is .080 inches". Next time don't be so quick to judge.
@@jon1913 "A mil is 1 thousandth of an inch". Really? Where? A "mil and mm" is an abbreviation of millimetre, mm is technically correct and mil is common usage. A "thou" is an abbreviation of a thousandth of an inch. 0.1 mil or mm = 4 thou.
@@harrygatto en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thousandth_of_an_inch Here's the first line from wikipedia: A thousandth of an inch is a derived unit of length in an inch-based system of units. Equal to 1⁄1000 of an inch, it is normally referred to as a thou /ˈθaʊ/, a thousandth, or (particularly in the United States) a mil. I don't use the term but have worked with machinists in the U.S. who do. It is very common in machine shops.
@@caseyfenton90 Summers can occasionally hit 95º+ but we rarely see 100. Interior temps were up to 150ºF, but dropped 25º after the roof isolation so that was nice.
![[4K] Watch SpaceX Catch A Starship Rocket From Space!!! #IFT5](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pIKI7y3DTXk/mqdefault.jpg)
This vid is still helping people after 5 years of uploading it. Thanks for the effort and sharing this with us.
Man thank you for taking the time to film this I know it would have taken a hell of a lot less time to just do it and not film. Very informative videos on your channel. Greatly appreciate it!
did my ceiling and floors, I need to do the doors, great job!!!
I'm half way done with mine and already notice a huge difference! I ran out as I didn't order enough, but can't wait to finish! Thanks for the video!
Damn , when you knocked on the roof scared me so bad I farted !! Lol , I had my ear pods on !
Your videos are great! You will have more subscribers soon. I really appreciate the hard work you put into these videos. The editing, the in depth detail on everything and your personality makes the videos really enjoyable to watch! 👍👍
I'm about to do my Toyota minivan, and then insulation, and hardwood floor. Camper adventures this summer! No more sitting in my sweaty apartment all summer!
lol that burp at 7:00 made me think or Rick & Morty.
Andy Roby lol
RickInTime?
That cartoon subliminally promotes paedophilia. It's a chomo show.
Reflexix insulation comes in 2' and 4' x 25 ' or 50. Works great as a membrane. 3/8 thick buble wrap with Mylar on both sides only passes3% of heat thru the membrane. Cuts with scissors attached with double sided tape. Seal joints with clear shipping tape.
Do front floor boards transmission hump. Outer doorskins etc.
How's the rattletrap holding up? Does it have a bad odor after installing and heard stories of the tar/adhesive melting?
I got 75 square feet of the rattletrap. The stuff is very easy to use and I didn't have to use a heat gun. So far I've done the roof, back fenders, cargo space, and two of the doors and it is quieter. Planning to do the floors as well. The instructions say that you can double layer the stuff if necessary.
looks like 75 feet wasn't enough. Ordered another 25 feet. Also if the sound reduction is not enough, the instructions say you can double layer it.
Thinking about doing this for my 87' Chevy G20 Sportvan that was sent to Infinity conversions after it rolled off the showroom floor and givin the snazzy 80s paint job wuth pun stripes and a fiber glass headliner set up with over head speaker pods and strip lights and a over head mounted CB radio with lots of toggle switches for the custom lights . In other words lots of crap to remove to get to the sheet metal to deaden the interior noises . I'm looking to do a restoration job on it and put in a freshly rebuilt classic 68' 327cid V8 thats a total performance beast .
Fortunately the original 305 has a unibracket that will work on the 327 that doesn't have the heads tapped for bracket mounting bolts . Anyways aside from my rambling ,big vehicles really need some sound deadening especially the older ones . I've used liquid foam that you can get at the hardware store and put it in between the panels and wherever I hear rattling where panels join . It's worked really well but this is a much better solution especially if you have a bumping sound system or have lousy insulation which most seem to have . Nothing worse than hearing a subwoofer bumping all the metal loose or trying to sleep in a hail/ rain storm in the van with no sound deadening . Sounds like your getting hit with meteors it's so loud 😨😱😁.
Anyway cool video and great details that many fail to mention .
@nick what would you recommend. Doing the rattle trap OR a lizard skin ci and sc treatment for the roof? In terms of better sound and heat insulation.
The plastic is to keep the board on your back of your door panels from getting wet & falling apart.
Good video.
For some reason, the difference in noise reduction didn't seem as much as I expected. It's either just me or maybe much of the noise is coming through the windows. Don't know! But it's really an informative helpful video. Thanks for a great job. Salaam.
Good and informative video, even as an older post. Good job. Yes it is easier to work with smaller strips. 👍 However, in my opinion, I would have work around the outside perimeter first and the crossmembers (setting up a border) then work towards the center of each section/ zone. Just like when you were younger coloring in a coloring book. You work the outside lines, then fill in the the rest of the inside. If the crossmembers are only attached on the left & right ends, could have place then plastic or wooded wedges to hold a gap open (just enough to place the sound mat between the roof and the crossmembers). Use the wooden wedges they use to shim doors or windows during construction in homes. Get them at the big box stores or local hardware stores.
Brother you are Solid trust me when Car Audio Guys use this stuff when the bass hits at 150+ DB the sound you hear when you palm slap it like a deep thudding bass sound is better then Stock where any noise sounds like the Wizard of Oz Tin Mans Nuts Chattering against his knees when scared Lmao .. Trust Me your set up perfect and you will also love the fact when you get better speakers the sound inside Sounds Wayyyyy better and the Road Noise will be a lot less so that's a little extra to think about in value you get when doing this
Looks great, do your interior firewall and the front seat pans for now.
Hey nick, what's the 5 year review? is that fatmat holding up?
Still holds strong and seem to do its job. I don't know much about sound deadening, but this seems to be quality stuff.
Did this help keep heat down at all you think? I’m about to replace my headliner and wondering if this is worth the $. I’m more worried about temps than noise
Yeah, dropped the temp atleast 10-15°F
Perfect!! Thanks!
How's this holding up after 4 years? did any of it de-laminate / fall off onto the headliner?
Still holding strong. This is some sticky shit!
Trying to tilt your head while driving down the road sucks with a bare metal scorching roof. I hate when its raining outside then the jeep starts raining condensation inside.
after 5 years know how the interior smell now ? do you recommend it for others? do you faced some problems? and thank you
It's been perfectly fine. No smell, no sag, just as good as day 1. It's a pain to peel it off if you need to work under the panels, but that just means it does it's job well.
Hi Nick,I was wondering if you are still happy with this product. Did it smell at all, especially in the summer. Also I was wondering if it droops/drools as some amazon review stated? Would you do it again? And would you do anything different?ThanksMadDogXJ.
There really wasn't any smell to recall after a day or two, and I haven't had any droop issues, that stuff is super sticky. I'm fairly happy with it, Though I'm thinking of doing something with the floors as they still get hot and are a bit loud, so coating the trans tunnel would probably help a lot
NickInTimeFilms would love to see a floor install too 😉
Problem is that they dont ship to canada 😡 but ill look more another day. Maybe another brand. But still alot more up here. Thanks for the quick response. Keep up the good work bud.
@@NickInTimeFilms After doing the roof and doors on mine, yep, the floor and the front are the key points, also, the back panels and the door pilars, the front ones vibrates like crazy.
@@NickInTimeFilms Hey nick i was wondering if it ever started stinking like maddogxj said there is amazon reviews saying it starts smelling like tar when it gets hot outside thx
@@coltong7491 Mine has been great, super sticky and hasn't smelled of anything after the 2nd day. No issues here.
You need to put it on your firewall. most of the noise sounds like it is coming from your engine. but really hard to tell from a video.
How many Jeeps would you say you have owned. I own a Jeep Patriot 2008 love it. I want to but a XJ but would it be worth buying an XJ with over 100k miles?
I've only had 2, and one is really just a lawn ordiment. Good luck trying to even find one with under 100k, probably a better shot of finding under 160k, but the engines last forever if they've had even general maintenance done to them. I'd be more inclined to look for unmodified first, but never know what you might find out there.
My 99 xj is right at 268,000 miles and still runs great
does it really help to keep the summer heat out a lot? I have to redo my headliner and I wanna add some stuff like this. I'm more concerned with insulation than sound deadening
it's hard to tell. I want to say its helpping with heat a bit but it's more for absorbing resonance. If you're only worried about heat, I would look more into the bubblewrap stuff that you put in your windshield. my interior temps still reach 120℉ sitting in the sun.
Ah I see, sound deadening is still nice lol I think I'm gonna get my self some. Thanks for the help
The only thing with fatmatt products is they are asphalt based and hold heat as well as you should spray 3m as a adhesive primer, fatmatt products will peel from the heat and the 3m will prevent that. I use to always use rattle trap till I found Siless 80mil and it butyl based and it about the same cost. Cool video.
I haven't had any peeling or smell with mine. It's been great in the NJ weather I experience
@@NickInTimeFilms That's good, I love fatmatt products, I have heard people say they can smell it for about 6mo, but personally I have never smelled it. I have had it peel on me on the roof surface on hot days and a little in below zero temps, but once I started pre-spraying the roof or other vertical surfaces with 3m 90 professional adhesive I have never had an issue since and in fact it's near impossible to remove.
How is it to take down the roof to install this? easy job or hell?
I was doing the headliner at the same time so check that video for details. Its annoying to loosen all the trim pieces and get the board out in one piece but it's doable.
I've read a lot about this stuff getting hot, falling off, and leaving pools of asphalt. (really wish I would have read all of those things before I bought it, I just went off your video and a couple reviews) How has this stuff held up in your Jeep?
Held up great, doesn't smell, doesn't droop, and does an okay job at quieting down the vibrations. this with the lizard skin undercoating has helped a decent amount, music is more audible on the highway
OK cool. I'll give it a shot. My 95 (as I'm sure with most XJs) rattles and is very loud on the interstate.
I want to do my roof eventually but so far the dynamat in my doors, hatch and rear walls hasn't noticeably slid or fallen off in Phoenix AZ summer so thats nice. The air here is 115+ in the shade on a little above average summer day, car interior when parked in the sun gets up above 200 degrees so I imagine the metal being kissed by the sun is cooking real good and so far so good still.
Zero smell with dynamat, and the sound difference is definitely noticeable.
If I could go back in time and think ahead more I would have gotten something cheaper probably(didnt really think I would end up wanting to do the whole car). I have spent $120+ (using thick dynamat)to do 4 doors, hatch, trunk walls, trunk floor, and the floor under back seat.
Ben P. I put it in my front doors right after I original comment, I need to open the door back up and check on it.
This just looks like a waste of time fitting a mod that does....very little.
Are those stock seats or upgraded? If so, what seats did you use?
+Serg Tarasov WJ power seats, got a whole video on the custom swap
Hey man the video is great! One question what seat did you swap with the xj?
Originally I went with WJ seats but they were slippery and hurt my back. Went with a Toyota Sienna seat at its better. Videos on both
Could you put this stuff on the floor and then coat it with bedliner? Also, great vid.
Teddy Monroe I was originally thinking about doing that but after reading i decided against it. The aluminium is really smooth so you'd have to rough it up a bit and find something that will stick to it. The other problem is that it's still a little mushy and will deform when you step on it hard so I feel that most coatings would eventually crack. There have been a few people that have tried it but it eventually flakes off.
I'm going to look into some kind of acoustic and thermal deadening liner to put underneath the truck to see if that helps at all. I'm eyeing up Al's Liner Heat and Noise Reducer as it's cheap and seems to do what I want.
Put on an extra coat or two of bedliner instead of the deadening material and you’ll have a harder, more durable coat that does just as much sound deadening because the bedliners are typically rubberized themselves and will dampen vibes all on their own.
I’ve got 72 sq ft of killmat on the way and I’m going to double up on the ceiling before I search for a replacement headliner and set of interior panels...I bought a 94 xj with the interior mostly stripped bare.
what if you apply it directly to the head liner and not the roof ?
It may help from an insulating standpoint, but I doubt it will absorb the wind noise of its not contacting the metal.
i was thinking since your floor is bed lined already its basically deadened. my thought is take some random strips of the stuff you have left over and do the firewall.
AKghandi The bedliner has very little thermal and acoustic dampening properties. It's quieter than bare metal but not my much, and just today the trans tunnel was 150*F. I'll have to do some kind of fancy undercoating at some point.
I'd consider doing the firewall if it wasn't such a pain to do it proper. Pulling the whole dash is something I'd rather not do.
did you ever get to the rear quarter panels? how much did it help in sound?
+grn dragon Didn't bother too much with the rear. It reduced a lot of the wind noise on the highway, but then I heard the tires more, haha. Ended up spraying some lizard skin underneath to help with that and now it's better than before. It's no cadillac, but you can hear the radio and talk to passengers when you're doing 65. haha
do you happen to know the weight of the roll you started with? Thank you for the response!
+grn dragon I checked the product description and it says 23lbs for the 50 sq ft roll.
That's not too bad, Thank you
How hard was the roof liner to put back on? looking to do this to my jeep
Wasn't terrible, check my headliner replacement video to see the end. ruclips.net/video/-bEhl5WCK3k/видео.html
thanks man!
what did those seats come out of and where they an easy instal?
WJ Grand Cherokee seats. For me they were a pain since I had to make custom mounting brackets. I have an install video on them, but personally I wasn't impressed. They are too slippery on the trails, the back support wasn't great for me, and are freezing cold in the winter and burning hot in the summer. I switched to a minivan seat later and I'm happier with that overall. Also an install video on that one.
@@NickInTimeFilms found the videos and you have pretty much everything one would need to be dangerous with an XJ. Great content!
How much rattle trap did you use for the roof?
The roof took around half the roll, so about 25sq-ft give or take
Well it did make the vibration sound lower so i would say great job :-D
I think you would have to go to a lot of trouble to make it any better, every roof support would need to be packed out to remove the gaps between surfaces to stop movement.
The doors would be a pain as there are components in there that would add to the noise, the window in its rubbers could slap about slightly as well.
For the floor you could get a bucket of gloopy underseal and coat the underside of the car, it should help to cut the higher frequencys, if not then you have a nicely sealed floor so rust has not a chance lol :-D
And if your feeling in a daft mood, cut up some old innertubes and bond them to the underside, thicker = lower resonance, but only if your in a daft mood ha ha :-D
zx8401ztv Funny you should say that because I'm highly considering some thermal/acoustic insulating liner to cover the underside of the floor pan with if the drivetrain ever gets pulled again. Might come sooner than you think, my motor is limping and begging for a rebuild.
NickInTimeFilms ha ha i can just see your engine pleading to be stripped down and its insides fondled by you, ooow :-D
if he did floor and had a before and after I'm sure it would be epic.
That "stupid plastic crap" is there for a reason.
Im going to do this as well as the lizard Skin sound deadening, as well as Hilti 506 but the spray, in a Lexus.... Goal, to get Rolls Royce Quiet lol
18 mill? How about 1 point 8 mill.
Check out GT mat on eBay! Put 75 sq ft in my 89 Xj and it was Solid! no rattles
Good work fella!
I didn't realize that you never put in a new carpet after you took out the old and painted the liner
+Nultari that was the whole point, no more soggy, moldy carpet to get wet after wheeling
any plans on some kind of sound dampener?
+Nultari I got lizard skin undercoating which helped a bit. Still need a little something extra on the trans tunnel, still decently warm on long drives
NickInTimeFilms right, I saw that video. What are your plans for the future? mechanic like your pops? You’re only like 23 right
Not sure, maybe just plaster some fatmat on the tunnel and see if that helps. haha. We both learned how to work on cars, but not as a career.
I see somebody already asked my question and you answered it thanks, so next question are you on any of the XJ groups on Facebook😁
Yeah, I'm most active in the Renix USA group, but I dabble on all the other XJ groups from time to time.
Cool video!
Mr rogers works on his jeep
i just use the windshield shades from the dollar store and stick it with aluminum duct tape 15 bucks and the whole jeep is done and it works for better than dynomat
+nekolin I'm sure it keeps the heat out real nice. I was thinking about putting some behind the headliner if I still have heat issues next summer. How's it do for sound control though?
tremendous thats actually why i first started using it we where looking for a cheap alternative to soundmatting for our sound systems and where to poor to buy any pro stuff after we grew up and had money we found out the pro stuff just wasnt as good
+nekolin Interesting, I'll keep it in mind if I have any small projects.
nekolin hmmmmmm...
Wow, that seems like a bad idea. Flimsy and flammable. In the event a fire the black smoke created from dollar store-quality material would probably knock you out very quickly. Better than Dynomat? Seems dubious lol
prolly cut down on noisy the rain is on the roof
If you would do the floor that would make a world of difference ...
I had one of those rollers too, they are total garbage. I've since bought one of these - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1EFKM/?tag=truckbooks-20 - wow, I highly recommend it, it's soooooo much better.
p.s. I uploaded another Jeep MJ project video lately, check it out if interested in my channel.
nice
Dave's not here.
I'd never use that Shit! Ireplaced my with 2 cans of contact cement and some new material and it looks brand new!
fatmat is asphalt based...
Looking online the only description i can find is "patented rubber compound" which may be Butyl based. Even if it does have asphalt in it, it doesn't smell at all after the first couple days so I'm happy with it
I was just shopping for sound deadener and googled "fatmat made of" and the very first link is pretty telling.
Pretty low oil pressure
Pretty terrible engine too. Rebuilt it into a stroker and now it's at a nice comfortable 50+ psi
NickInTimeFilms nice. glad to hear. I just got back from a trip to the badlands in indiana. have a video of it on my channel if you want to check it out. I'm actually ripping my carpet out right now as it got flooded on the trip. glad to see my floors are solid
Talk less and work more should have been the case here
less talking, more working
80mm is 1/80,000th of an inch. Classic. Haha!!!
Age of Reason he said "80 mil" not millimeter. A mil is 1 thousandth of an inch, so he was correct in saying "80 mil is .080 inches". Next time don't be so quick to judge.
@@jon1913 "A mil is 1 thousandth of an inch". Really? Where?
A "mil and mm" is an abbreviation of millimetre, mm is technically correct and mil is common usage. A "thou" is an abbreviation of a thousandth of an inch.
0.1 mil or mm = 4 thou.
@@harrygatto en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thousandth_of_an_inch Here's the first line from wikipedia: A thousandth of an inch is a derived unit of length in an inch-based system of units. Equal to 1⁄1000 of an inch, it is normally referred to as a thou /ˈθaʊ/, a thousandth, or (particularly in the United States) a mil.
I don't use the term but have worked with machinists in the U.S. who do. It is very common in machine shops.
Age of Reason lmao.
harrygatto wow
How has it held up on the headliner? Any bad smell or melting in hot weather?
Nope, it's stayed in place great and no smelly smells even in the summer. It's good stuff
@@NickInTimeFilms How hot does it get where you live?
@@caseyfenton90 Summers can occasionally hit 95º+ but we rarely see 100. Interior temps were up to 150ºF, but dropped 25º after the roof isolation so that was nice.