Soft99 Dark and Light waxes - different or same same?
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- Опубликовано: 31 дек 2020
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This video is about:
Soft99 Dark and Light waxes - different or same same?
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Авто/Мото
this video was exactly what I was looking for, thank you!
You are the best in every way super details about them all .Thank you for that I learned so much from your inputs and the test that you have done .from the USA ! 👍
Thank you for the effort. Good job. Makes life easier with the effort you did for general understanding on the products.
This is great! I had no idea, of the extensive product line of Soft99. I love Fusso. The stinkier, the better!
Thanks for doing these videos in English . Very informative.
Just the video I needed thank you very much, I am much better informed now. Love from the UK.
great job mate, good effort in detail for products
It’s a long video, thanks for the effort you guys did in this video
just what i wanted to know nice one Xaron
Thank you for another great vid!
Fantastic content as usual just want to say we really appreciate the video in English!
Thanks for the English upload!
Great tests here, very scientific. Well done.
thanks for english upload man :)
great video ones again
That's quite an intensive money n work you put in there Sir. Hat off. Funny how i find myself to find interest again in the oldy goldy wax.
Awesome video. I swear buy soft 99 fusso coat. I always wondered about all the rest of their waxes. Thanks for explaining it. Aloha from Hawaii.
Aloha back!
Very good introduction. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing in detailed
Great video. I love the old Fusso Coat, and even use it on brass musical instruments! Those who claim it is difficult to apply (IMHO) just need to accept that some things require more skill and patience.
The most telling element of your comparison is not with shading, but with light refraction and diffusion. Look again on the dark hood at the old Fusso with light and dark. Because this hood was repainted and not corrected/color-sanded, you’re actually doing us a favor by having orange peel visible. With the Scangrip, you CAN see how much more the dark wax manipulates the reflectivity a lot.
My conclusion is that if you truly flatten and correct the clearcoat, the dark version of the product may offer more shine on a darker-colored surface.
Separate rant, but sticking to it: How you prepare a panel (not you the author, but all of you out there) matters a great deal to the end result of any product you use. I use the old formula on my black car not for shine, but for durability. Yes a true ceramic coating will offer a more glass-like appearance, but if you really polish the surface to a 95-99% level of correction…these products will last a long time and protect that correction.
Really good video fair play
Very good informatíve video just for me, 2 cars one dark one light,Thanks a lot👍
Thanks very much 😀
Finally in English ! thx
A tip: watch series at InstaFlixxer. Me and my gf have been using it for watching all kinds of movies these days.
@Rogelio Alonso Definitely, been watching on InstaFlixxer for since december myself =)
Brilliant well done
With all these products which one do you prefer for clearing swirl marks?
Can you guys make a playlist with every English upload?
There already is one
Sweet. I was a little concerned on using my Fusso Dark on my light silver car. But now I'm not.. now I just have to se the difference in soft99 microlø liquid compound and Autoglym resin
Thank you for English 🙏👍
nice.
black roof with light body....:D i have the old black fusso.
i wonder if i should run asap for the new fusso? any benefits?
New one is easier to apply, but less durable. You decide. ;)
On the video the dark waxes did look a lot better than the light waxes on the black hood.
I am led to believe the base mixture would be the light versions of each wax and the dark waxes contain a bit more fillers.
Edit: just noticed you shared the same thought near the end ;)
Exactly 😉
I know this comment might not be seen but i just want to add that the old fusso is still for sale in south america
america, other chemical rules yeah
Which wax better for BMW metallic blue color ? Thnks.
Sita Gupta wäre stolz auf dich!
Thank you great video. But can you comment if I apply the Soft 99 Black King of Gloss on white paint, will it produce any dark shading?
the video perfectly answers your question 😉
So, mirror shine has the best swirl filling ability and then Kiwami Black. What are your thoughts on this?
My thoughts: stop focusing on the felt finishing capabilities of those waxes. Soft99 waxes are incredibly hydrophobic and comparably durable. Those are their strong points. „Gloss“ or „shine“ in waxes is overrated as it‘s highly subjective, hard to measure and proove, and rarely holds up to critical testing. Use two different gloss metres on the same panel, you get two different results. Use the same gloss metre on two different panels with the same wax, you get different results.
If you look for a wax that‘s good at creating a change in light reflections or darkening effect - which is visible - don‘t go for a Soft99 wax. If you want something that‘s durable and hydrophobic, go for a Soft99 wax, but not necessarily Mirror Shine.
What's best interms of durability?
It’s a translation issue!!! Lol the light is for light swirling and scratching but the dark is for more heavy swirling and scratching. Soft99 themselves stipulate that the dark version of all formulas contain more “fillers” to help makes the surfaces of paint more consistent.
This means comparing light and dark on the same painted surface will not yield any noticeable results
If you have deep swirling and scratching, get the dark. Soft 99 really need to change the descriptions to “light” and “heavy”
White has more solvent for cleaning (white cars show staining more so solvents are better) black has more wax content for better filling and gloss. Thus there is a reason to use white on white cars and black on black cars not really a translation issue.
Duck, with one sentence you have polished up a clear explanation on the difference between these two products.
@@jpan7071 Was that with an all-in-one, or a diminishing-abrasive compound? I vote the latter.
So the authentic premium is the best among all soft 99 products?
not really, no
what fusso coat will i use for red paint.. dark or white fusso?
You saw the video, right? it doesn‘t matter!
"Firstly, despite its name, SOFT99 Fusso Coat Wax isn't a wax in the true sense of the term, as it doesn't contain any naturally derived waxes (e.g. carnauba). Rather, it comprises a fluorine polymer ('fusso' means 'fluorine' in Japanese) suspended in a synthetic petroleum-based paste."
I'm lead to believe that the dark versions have more fillers and the light versions have more cleaners.
Thank you so much for making this video!! German engineering is always the best!!!
So can I use the soft99 fusso coat DARK on my white car? The webshop I use is sold out for the white version
From our experience, yes
@@XaronFR ok tnx
Many thanks for the great comparison and explanation, please advise me. I have the silver bronze car and I brought the Fusso coat dark version and King of gloss white version (White tin with red dot), Can I apply the fusso coat on my car for a base coat after prepare surface with cleaner wax (Meguiar's Cleaner wax) and top up its with the king of gloss white (with red dot) to enhance maximum gloss ??
Thank you.
you can, but it doesn‘t make sense!
Before I start, I want to say that I also sometimes staple products on top of each other. So by no means I am completely against it. And the simple answer to your question is:, you can. You can put anything on top of everything. It‘s fun and sometimes it works. So I also like to experiment with topping / layering, but that‘s the main message of my posting: it is always an EXPERIMENT! Because at the end of the day, noone can tell you if it really works.
The main question here is why you want to top a product with another product? If the answer to that question is that you want to protect the first product, then let me ask you this: Would you hire a security guy to protect another security guy?
It‘s a protective product and you don‘t need to protect that. If you feel the need to do so, you chose the wrong type and kind of protection and should have gone for a stronger one from the outset.
Topping is fun and as many fun stuff is also a bit silly. Because from a purely objective standpoint, TOPPING DOESN'T MAKE SENSE! Let me explain why:
1. If we are talking about topping / layering / stacking different waxes with each other and if we are e.g. talking about the white or light versions of Soft99's waxes or other so-called „cleaner waxes“, then they often contain cleaners or even abrasives. So by applying the second "coat" you will harm, destroy or remove the first one.
2. If you aim to apply a durable base product first and then create „gloss“ by applying a second, more glossy product, then let me tell you this: "Gloss" comes from perfectly preparing (polishing) your paint. Gloss is the way light rays bounce off your paint. On perfect, defect-free, and 100% leveled paint light rays bounce off in the same angle as they hit the paint, therefore creating perfect gloss. Every scratch, swirl, haze, hologram, orange peel, contaminant etc. that is on or in your paint will decrease the gloss level. On perfectly prepared, defect free, and 100% leveled paint NO protective product will increase gloss, in fact it will decrease it as long as it's not 100% transparent, meaning if you would measure gloss with a gloss meter, you would actually only decrease gloss. The only thing that protective products and especially waxes can do is fill up light, very ligt scratches and swirls and/or change the way the light rays bounce off the paint, i.e. creating e.g. a "wetlook" - but wetlook in fact is decreased gloss, by definition.
3. In order for topping to actually, chemically and physically work, it would be necessary that the protective products you want to top onto each other actually form uniform, enclosed layers - which pretty much most of them simply don't. By topping different kinds of products onto each other it's much more like you are creating a mish-mash of products.
4. It's perfectly possible that the second product you apply ontop of the first one does loosen up the first one, especially if the second one contains strong solvents. Some waxes do actually contain such aggressive solvents, the probability is very high that you actually harm or damage your first coat of wax by applying a second one.
5. Some products, i.e. ceramic coatings, you can actually damage the first layer and make things much, much worse. Most "detail sprays" from Koch Chemie e.g. contain butoxyethanol which is a solvent for silicones and if a ceramic coating contains siloxanes, those detail sprays will actually harm the coating. Other coatings react rather poorly to detail sprays which contain certain types of silicones, which leads to streaking issues and/or making the water spotting issue of coatings actually worse.
6. It is perfectly possible that the second product you apply on top of the first one doesn't actually stick or bond. This means that you apply the seond layer which then pretty much immediately during the first rain, extremely hot or cold weather or during your first wash comes off. If the first and second layer products are both equally hydrophobic, you won't even notice that.
7. If your first layer product is very hydrophobic and you then apply e.g. a product for the second layer which is taylored towards "gloss" (see above) or slickness, this product will actually decrease the hydrophobic effect of the first product. This e.g. accounts for a lot of detailing sprays like PNS Beadmaker, WoWo's Showstopper, etc.
8. Even if the topping technically works and your second layer product bonds to the first layer product, let's assume they are both very and equally hydrophobic (e.g. Soft99 Fusso Coat 12M and Sonax BSD): how will you ever be able to tell if it is the first or second layer product that creates a strong beading and sheeting effect? Right, you can't, which is why you could also just ditch the first layer and only use the second layer, as the first layer won't do anything better or more! Also: Sonax BSD e.g. leaves behind a comparably rough surface which could negatively affect Fusso Coat‘s strong self-cleaning effect.
9. Wet coat type products (like Gyeon WetCoat, AB MagiSeal, KKD Purity X) - per definition - need water in order to work and bond properly. If you already have a wax, sealant, or coating on your car, then there simply isn‘t enough water on your car in order for those products to react properly. Even worse: because the water on your protected car accumulates in small drops, the wet coat type product also accumulates in those drops which is why it then bonds only in those drops. That‘s why so many people have issues like streaking or spotting with those kind of products, but it‘s a simple user error!
If you don‘t care about any of those thing then go ahead and apply whatever you want on top of each other. I‘m just saying that technically, it doesn‘t really work and that people shouldn‘t make promises based on topping that fall apart if you have a closer look at them.
@@XaronFR Thank you for your advice, It's clearly and best explanation.
❤️❤️
PS. I'm not great at English sorry to make you confused.
@@XaronFR Please help to advise me, for the first question I understood clearly but I have confuse about how to prepare body paint before getting wax or sealant on my car.
If I have only clay bars and cleaner wax and some of "Silicone off" product and one of Soft 99 wax for "Black or Dark paint" no have DA polisher and ETC, Can I prepare body paint after cleaning my car with Clay Bars and then apply the Clean wax to remove another stain that Clay bars can not eliminate them for maximum efficiency ( As far as I know Cleaner wax is the cleaning chemical including wax used for remove some another dirt and stubborn stain by using chemical to remove them) and wipe it off with "Silicone off" before apply the Soft 99 Black and Dark wax "OR" after washing my car and use the clay bars to remove the stain wipe my car with "Silicone off" and the n apply the Soft 99 wax. Which one is correct ??
Thank you.
Polirebas icavs?
The color of the waxes mah be different just becaus they put colorants in them, but as long as they work, who cares right
Try this and its hard little bit difficult to wipe with microfiber cloth
1:48
It all comes from the same tube I guess …