Hint: Oxidation on copper will prevent a clean connection. Take some sandpaper, emery board, or nail file and clean the copper plate and wire to remove the oxidation. The larger battery provides enough current to arc through the oxidation. As a battery alternative, you can use a 6 volt battery that is used in the large flashlights. You can find these for less than $10 at any Big Box or sporting goods store. Some are rechargeable if you want to spend a few more bucks up front and get a charger. Not a bad investment if you plan to use this a lot. Although you mentioned briefly about using the copper pipe/plate as the negative connection, this wasn't made clear in the video. Now that I have complained the whole time, the overall process is great. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with others.
This is great. It helped me loads, thank you.I wanted a complicated pattern doing on a bit of my bike. and although I'm quite handy with a craft knife it was too intricate. I got a die cut transfer at a print shop. I got a good deal and got some vintage repro transfers too. I copied the amount of salt used.I used a tattoo machine power supply. which works great. I messed around with the voltage and the time. At 12 volts it eats through it incredibly fast. Real Aluminium is hypoallergenic just like silver and gold. I want to make a simple bangle from a strip of it. A celtic pattern would work well.
I was looking for a cheap method to do my etching and you really nailed it. One thing I would like to suggest so the battery doesn`t get hot and leak or burst on you. Add up a 10 ohm/10 watt resistor inline on the positive side. This way you will limit the current going through. Great job!
Just a quick report back. I lined a large food container about 12" x 8" with heavy foil. The aluminium I wanted to etch was like a channel section 2" x 1.5" x 11". I used a bench power supply - 8V at 3A made a lovely grey bubble scum. I did rotate the aluminium to try and get an even etch. It took 3 coats of paint to sort it out but it must have helped the bond. Worked very well - thanks.
A thought. Maybe you can use aluminum tape on the back. Between the copper teminal and the aluminum body. It should be widely available from any hardware store. It's normally used to seal ventilation pipes. But its adhesive on one side and it is conductive so the stuff should work in theory. And it should keep the aluminum piece from discoloration. Maybe worth to try :) Nice video btw!
Anna, before attaching your electrodes (proper name) to your aluminum and copper pieces you may want to take a piece of 400-grit sand paper and clean them so they are nice and bright in order to make a good connection. The copper plate and wire both should show bright copper for the best connection. Just a thought.
This is great! Gave me some good ideas for a project I'm working on. Made me wonder if hot glue on the back would keep the electrode and the aluminum water-tight so the back wouldn't get etched.
Geetings...... #Anna Ms. i had a problem when doing this. I cut a piece from an aluminum pipe and then covered with my total design using vinyl leaving only areas to etch... I used a 12 volt power supply, vinegar (containing Acetic acid + water) and little salt.... But it did't work... Is there anything that i am missing..... I have not treated my aluminium piece before doing this..... Kind guide will be appreciated ........
Thanks for your Quick Reply.............. Do you think that aluminium piece need some pre treatment to disolve that part in vinegar and salt...... It is a piece cut from aluminium Pipe used industrial in doors or whatever?
I do believe, in this process, you are creating hydrochloric acid. That may be why you don't enjoy the feeling on your hands.. you are also completing a process called Electrolysis which separates water into it's elements: hydrogen and oxygen. TheMoreYouKnow🌠 have fun and be safe.
As far as I know, the gas causing the bubbles is O2, H2, Cl and HCl which is explosive when exposed to UV light. Do you know if there will be created enough gas to be dangerous following your setup?
Trust a lady to get it right. In the UK it's almost impossible to buy anything that a baby can't eat, drink or stick up it's nose. I need to paint some aluminium and no matter what paint I use it chips off. I can't locate any self etching primer and all acids are now under the 'poison act' so any acid electrolysis (other than old car battery acid) I can't use. I'll need an old washing up bowl as the bits a quite big. That etching you did looks as good as anything else far more complicated. So 'KISS' to you madam - Keep It Simple Stupid. By the way, those bubbles are hydrogen and oxygen so don't sniff the wrong ones and smoke LOL.
Nice video. Quick question. After the process is done the water is toxic? Can i throw the water without problems?the negative metal has to have the same size as the positive? Thanks a lot
be careful if you use a laptop charger, you will need to limit the current to 1amp, otherwise, you will damage your charger. her circuit does not limit the current
shawng7902 it creates chlorine gas and hydrogen. Chlorine gas is highly toxic Hydrogen is explosive Make sure you do not breathe in fumes and always stay in a well ventilated area... A bad example of a place to be in your desk for your home computer
Some tips to help improve your process. If the metal is not completely cleaned/degreased, the etching can be uneven. The natural oils on your fingers is enough to cause enchant to not get at the metal fully (for example, have you ever seen a partial fingerprint in the etched result?). Oil and dirt may also me left on the metal from wherever it came from, especially from the mill if the metal is new. This is why you probably see different results, even from the same sheet of metal. Invisible surface contamination is preventing the salt water to reaching the entire surface the same way everywhere. Refer to this video where he degreases the metal with soy sauce. Other cleaners can be used, but most people have some of this in there kitchen already, so if it works, why not use it. Notice that he is wearing gloves during the entire cleaning process to prevent oil from his skin getting back onto the metal. ruclips.net/video/6srRiTfAUqE/видео.html You can probably spot other tips in the rest of the video, noting how he handles his parts. The main difference that does not really matter is that he is using copper instead of aluminum, laser toner transfer instead of vinyl as the etch resist, and chemical etching only instead of chemical + electrical etching. Try using better waterproof tape, like vinyl electrical or clear packing tape, instead of the paper masking tape you are using here. The paper is likely allowing the salt water to soak through leaving only the sticky adhesive to protect the metal that should not be etched. The alligator clip onto the corroded pipe may not make a good connection because of the corrosion. Try to solder a piece of wire onto the pipe so the wore-to-pipe connection remains good longer even after the surface corrosion builds up again. The alligator clip can then attach to the clean end of the wire, and it keeps the clip away from the corrosive liquid. For the wire on the back of the metal, try using a piece that still have the insulation attached (or wrap with electrical tape) except where the coil presses against the aluminum and where the alligator clip attaches. The exposed copper wire will also be etched, which adds copper residue to the etching solution along with the aluminum residue.
Thank you for keeping in the battery change so I could see both set-ups. Awesome tutorial. Thank you.
Hint: Oxidation on copper will prevent a clean connection. Take some sandpaper, emery board, or nail file and clean the copper plate and wire to remove the oxidation. The larger battery provides enough current to arc through the oxidation.
As a battery alternative, you can use a 6 volt battery that is used in the large flashlights. You can find these for less than $10 at any Big Box or sporting goods store. Some are rechargeable if you want to spend a few more bucks up front and get a charger. Not a bad investment if you plan to use this a lot.
Although you mentioned briefly about using the copper pipe/plate as the negative connection, this wasn't made clear in the video.
Now that I have complained the whole time, the overall process is great. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with others.
Thank you for showing your video; it's been very helpful. I tried this with plain salt and it worked better than anything else I tried. Thank you.
Thanks for the idea, trying to do a project for my grandpa and wanted a cheap way to do it myself.
Awesomeness!! You saved my project
One of the best process explanations I've seen... Many Thanks
Nice, easy to understand, video. Thanks!
This is great. It helped me loads, thank you.I wanted a complicated pattern doing on a bit of my bike. and although I'm quite handy with a craft knife it was too intricate. I got a die cut transfer at a print shop. I got a good deal and got some vintage repro transfers too. I copied the amount of salt used.I used a tattoo machine power supply. which works great. I messed around with the voltage and the time. At 12 volts it eats through it incredibly fast. Real Aluminium is hypoallergenic just like silver and gold. I want to make a simple bangle from a strip of it. A celtic pattern would work well.
I was looking for a cheap method to do my etching and you really nailed it. One thing I would like to suggest so the battery doesn`t get hot and leak or burst on you. Add up a 10 ohm/10 watt resistor inline on the positive side. This way you will limit the current going through. Great job!
More cheapest you can used "Ferric Acid"
Just a quick report back. I lined a large food container about 12" x 8" with heavy foil. The aluminium I wanted to etch was like a channel section 2" x 1.5" x 11". I used a bench power supply - 8V at 3A made a lovely grey bubble scum. I did rotate the aluminium to try and get an even etch. It took 3 coats of paint to sort it out but it must have helped the bond. Worked very well - thanks.
A thought. Maybe you can use aluminum tape on the back. Between the copper teminal and the aluminum body. It should be widely available from any hardware store. It's normally used to seal ventilation pipes. But its adhesive on one side and it is conductive so the stuff should work in theory. And it should keep the aluminum piece from discoloration.
Maybe worth to try :)
Nice video btw!
copper may need sanded for better connection
Great video. I was looking for how to do a big block of aluminum but I like this idea for other projects. Thank you
Welcome!
Anna, before attaching your electrodes (proper name) to your aluminum and copper pieces you may want to take a piece of 400-grit sand paper and clean them so they are nice and bright in order to make a good connection. The copper plate and wire both should show bright copper for the best connection. Just a thought.
Thanks for sharing this! How deep the etching is?
Thanks for not playing annoying beat music in background 😄
Welcome!
the kosher salt and water mix is ok for pickling brisket.(salt beef or corned beef in America)
Thank you so much for sharing this with us.
yemerican you're welcome :)
This is great! Gave me some good ideas for a project I'm working on. Made me wonder if hot glue on the back would keep the electrode and the aluminum water-tight so the back wouldn't get etched.
Good idea. If you tried it did it work?
Great idea for small etches like this. I tried with a car charger once and while it worked great it was definitely more dangerous.
Etching is beautiful. Where's the sound in the video. It's not clear.
Hmm, the sound is working for me.
Exactly the video I was looking for. Thanks, Anna!
Manolis Sifakis you're welcome. Excuse my accent.
Geetings...... #Anna Ms. i had a problem when doing this. I cut a piece from an aluminum pipe and then covered with my total design using vinyl leaving only areas to etch... I used a 12 volt power supply, vinegar (containing Acetic acid + water) and little salt.... But it did't work... Is there anything that i am missing..... I have not treated my aluminium piece before doing this..... Kind guide will be appreciated ........
Ahtisham GM I only use salt and distilled water. How much salt? I think I used almost a cup in this bowl. Try upping your salt level.
Thanks for your Quick Reply.............. Do you think that aluminium piece need some pre treatment to disolve that part in vinegar and salt...... It is a piece cut from aluminium Pipe used industrial in doors or whatever?
Ahtisham GM not sure honestly. I've only used sheet aluminum. The vinegar has me confused. I don't use it on mine.
Thank you!
I do believe, in this process, you are creating hydrochloric acid. That may be why you don't enjoy the feeling on your hands.. you are also completing a process called Electrolysis which separates water into it's elements: hydrogen and oxygen. TheMoreYouKnow🌠 have fun and be safe.
As far as I know, the gas causing the bubbles is O2, H2, Cl and HCl which is explosive when exposed to UV light. Do you know if there will be created enough gas to be dangerous following your setup?
The back won’t etch if you use electrical tape instead of masking tape.
Lovely result :)
I think you might need to sand the copper wire and pipe clean so that it will conduct the electricity better. It looked pretty corroded.
I started cleaning it before use it does make a huge difference
That's awesome
Trust a lady to get it right. In the UK it's almost impossible to buy anything that a baby can't eat, drink or stick up it's nose. I need to paint some aluminium and no matter what paint I use it chips off. I can't locate any self etching primer and all acids are now under the 'poison act' so any acid electrolysis (other than old car battery acid) I can't use. I'll need an old washing up bowl as the bits a quite big. That etching you did looks as good as anything else far more complicated. So 'KISS' to you madam - Keep It Simple Stupid. By the way, those bubbles are hydrogen and oxygen so don't sniff the wrong ones and smoke LOL.
Nice video. Quick question. After the process is done the water is toxic? Can i throw the water without problems?the negative metal has to have the same size as the positive? Thanks a lot
I honestly don't know for sure. I wouldn't think so maybe add some baking soda just in case?
@@AnnaLewis07 thanks for your answer
@@raulegido Welcome!
Great video. Will this work on copper?
Yes.
will this work on stainless steel items? thxs
It should. I've seen it done in other videos.
Do you know if this will work on sterling silver?
Not sure. I know it does on aluminum, copper, and brass
excuse my ignorance, but what is kosher salt?
Table salt should work. I'm not really sure of the difference.
@@AnnaLewis07 thanks
How many Volt has the Battery?
the small battery is 1.5 volt, the bigger battery is 6 volts
Hello,can i use laptop charger OUTPUT is +32A +16A
yes
be careful if you use a laptop charger, you will need to limit the current to 1amp, otherwise, you will damage your charger. her circuit does not limit the current
nice
Doesn't this create acid with salt?
shawng7902 it creates chlorine gas and hydrogen.
Chlorine gas is highly toxic
Hydrogen is explosive
Make sure you do not breathe in fumes and always stay in a well ventilated area...
A bad example of a place to be in your desk for your home computer
Some tips to help improve your process.
If the metal is not completely cleaned/degreased, the etching can be uneven. The natural oils on your fingers is enough to cause enchant to not get at the metal fully (for example, have you ever seen a partial fingerprint in the etched result?). Oil and dirt may also me left on the metal from wherever it came from, especially from the mill if the metal is new. This is why you probably see different results, even from the same sheet of metal. Invisible surface contamination is preventing the salt water to reaching the entire surface the same way everywhere.
Refer to this video where he degreases the metal with soy sauce. Other cleaners can be used, but most people have some of this in there kitchen already, so if it works, why not use it. Notice that he is wearing gloves during the entire cleaning process to prevent oil from his skin getting back onto the metal.
ruclips.net/video/6srRiTfAUqE/видео.html
You can probably spot other tips in the rest of the video, noting how he handles his parts. The main difference that does not really matter is that he is using copper instead of aluminum, laser toner transfer instead of vinyl as the etch resist, and chemical etching only instead of chemical + electrical etching.
Try using better waterproof tape, like vinyl electrical or clear packing tape, instead of the paper masking tape you are using here. The paper is likely allowing the salt water to soak through leaving only the sticky adhesive to protect the metal that should not be etched.
The alligator clip onto the corroded pipe may not make a good connection because of the corrosion. Try to solder a piece of wire onto the pipe so the wore-to-pipe connection remains good longer even after the surface corrosion builds up again. The alligator clip can then attach to the clean end of the wire, and it keeps the clip away from the corrosive liquid. For the wire on the back of the metal, try using a piece that still have the insulation attached (or wrap with electrical tape) except where the coil presses against the aluminum and where the alligator clip attaches. The exposed copper wire will also be etched, which adds copper residue to the etching solution along with the aluminum residue.
use a charger, adapter or bench power supply. the more powerful the better. batteries are so harmfull to nature.
And we discard hundreds of billions of those batteries each year into land and sea.
Too Long, make it shorter the better
He