I have modded many cars over the years, the reason I am now a Ford guy is Ford Performance. Ford Racing. I had a chance in 2005 at an SVT event to spend some time with the Ford guys. I did the Racing school at Miller Motorsports park a year later.... Ford has a massive amount of resources! Massive, engineers the best equipment design etc. They race these cars for years and work with Race teams "multimatic" Roush others all that knowledge and know how go into your car.... how anyone would think any after market could come even close is beyond me. Not saying companies dont make power they clearly can do that but at the end of the day everything is a trade off. You can simply not beat having OEM....
I totally agree! If this car wasn’t already modded I would have left it alone. Some learnings to get where I am today and this car is a solid piece and a blast to drive. Staying FBO with some head work coupled to Boss racing cams it’s going to be wild. Nothing like a Boss 302! Thanks for watching!
Fellow boss owner here. Appreciate the vids. When it comes to performance mods I’d say be careful because it’s already a track tuned car stock. It beat the M3 on Laguna Seca. I’ll mod asthmatics, exhaust, basic stuff… MGW shifter, things to prolong the transmission… but otherwise I’m keeping it as stock as possible.
checking out the content. always loved the boss. was looking at getting one back in 2015 but i loved the new body style when that came out. almost pulled the trigger before the new body style came out
Good review. As a fellow Boss LS owner, I agree people need to understand just throwing a bunch of parts on a car isn't always a good answer, especially the modern stuff and even more so a car like the Boss 302. Throwing axle backs or CAI on a Boss will actually hurt power. Some cams will as well. I've always recommended the Cobra Jet kit for these cars. Suspension is already pretty good, especially the LS. A little more low end torque is all that's needed. Mine is stock with just a Carbon Fiber DS and better flywheel/clutch to protect the MT82
Thanks for the honesty. Most people just brag about everything they spend money on, and you've just gave the true goods on each mod. Well done! I have a 2013 performance white, full stock, and will probably leave it as such, other than the gear shift issue. Not certain what to do to make it smooth similar to my Z06, but with guys like yourself, I'm sure I'll figure it out. Thanks again eh :-) 🇨🇦
Thanks for your support Bill! Smart choice to leave it stock, a blowshift racing bracket and short throw shifter is a nice mod and helps a ton. My favorite RUclips guy is Nick’s Garage out of Montreal area I believe. I love his videos!
Clutch line needs to be replaced, plastic one comes stock in the car. That's what causes the clutch pedal dumping to the floor. If you're having issues with the shifting motion, replace the shifter bracket. Fords bracket has zip ties on them, ridiculous!
Corey thanks for the comments. I did replace the clutch line to a braided line during the clutch install. I also have a Blow Fish racing bracket in which greatly improved my shifting. Thanks for supporting the channel!
I bought a 2013 Boss 302 new, stock everything including tires the best that car ran was like 12.60’s I’m gonna say, it just could not hook up to pull a high 1.60’s 60ft like it should do setup right. At the time Steeda had the best hp gain CAI on the market with tune! Installed that with a set of American racing long tubes with cats deleted! Off road x pipe! Changed out the clutch and installed a lighter flywheel and added a lighter driveshaft. Removed the front sway bar for better weight transfer to the back wheels and installed a set of race star wheels with 15/295 drag radials at back. Stock rear suspension still and car picked up a lot and ran best of 11.97/116. Stock intake and Tb. Also had installed a MGW shifter and bigger clutch Fluid line. Definitely has more potential but it was never built to drag race anyways. Hahahahaha
11.97 is a great time on 93 gas IMO. I ran best of 11.99 last fall with ported intake, e85, basically FBO. There are guys running into the low 11.1,11.2 with my set up. LCA should help you out of the hole. How much lighter flywheel did you go with? I just returned to a near stock weight flywheel because of misfires codes. Are you experiencing this?
@@CoyoteProductionsBoss302 I forgot the weight on that fly wheel if I recall correctly it was the ford racing billet fly wheel. My brother has this car now, as far as I know he has no misfire issues at least I’ve not ever heard, I know when I had it I didn’t have this issue, but I did go through 3 transmissions under warranty before I got fed up and replaced the clutch with a McLeod HD and then this billet aluminum fly wheel. My stock clutch got smoked a little and was blowing my transmissions due to third gear pile ups.
The L&M "intake only" cams were recommended to me. Full TiVCT control, no torque loss and easy to tune. They make more power than the 13mm lift CJ cams with only 12mm lift. And now L&M came out with paired exhaust cams.
Thanks I looked at those cams and the make good power. I wanted to keep this set up all Boss components and keep my 50 degrees of cam timing. We’ll get 25-30 hp with 20 ft lbs of torque. Not huge but will still idle like stock. Thanks for watching !!
Hey what’s up man, I gotta help you out a bit if your gonna drag race your boss 302 your spending money that’s unnecessary. It hose cams ain’t gonna do anything for you better off with a set of Comp cams but you’ll gain hp and lose tq, if your gonna do cams might as well do some head work. Cobra jet manifold is the best route to go with with a mono blade throttle throttle and a Ford racing cai or pmas. LU 47lb injectors is all you needed with no boost a pump. Suspension wise your doing a good job, a MGW shifter definitely makes shifting the mt82 a lot more enjoyable. My buddy holds the NA record at 10.47 with a 13 boss 302 I’m actually 2nd place with a 12 boss 302 10.80. 3.73’s best gear you can run with a 15X10 wheel and a 28X10.5 slick. Also gonna have to do some weight reduction, for tuning AED or John Lund.
Thanks bro! Yeah where I m going is to continue using the full VCT with the Boss cams. There good for 25 hp and I don’t want lock outs. Goal is to kick some old school na butt. Thanks for the tips though. I do plan on getting a better tune later on after my mod changes. Are you running a stock trans and Boss intake? What rear springs are you running too? Thanks for watching!!
If im buying a boss 302, I'm not modding it..lol.. At 30-40k,, lol,, with a boss 302, I'd be happy @ 444 HP/380TQ. It's like taking the Mona Lisa and using crayons on her ..lol..lol. Just put the red track key in and be happy. This is like modding a 2013 662hp Shelby. You want to fuck with mods, buy a base gt..
Good advice! I purchased the car with some mods, don’t have stock wheels or shocks. So my excuse to mod. LOL, plus I wanted a play car and my intent was to buy a GT, but in my search I saw this for sale and once I looked at it it was all over. Thanks for watching!
@@CoyoteProductionsBoss302 thank you for your video,,great information. At the end of the day it's your choice, yours alone. By modding, you do learn what works and what doesn't. I have 2 mustangs, two '07s, mine is a modded GT, I kept her N/A. 3:73 gears, jlt Cai ser 3, get 500 throttle body, pypes long tubes with x pipe, 93 octane tune. My GF'S is a plain Jane v6 convertible. Anyway, I'm looking to get either a '12-13 Boss 302 or a '11-12 Shelby gt 500. I won't mod either of those, like to keep those stock
Good video, where do you have your tire pressures settings at for daily driving, I have the 2014 mustang track pack; still trying to find the optimum tire pressure for my car.
CJ honestly I don’t know where my road tires are at. Maybe 40 psi. It’s recommended to run to manufacturers specifications to not cause abnormal wear and not decrease tire life. Street launches on my MT ET drag bias ply I found 25 psi seemed to give me the best patch. Sometimes you have to do trial and error to find what works. Hope that helps! Thanks for commenting!
Are shorty headers ideal for this car? I’m thinking of purchasing either JBA or Kooks. If I go with JBA I’ll definitely be going LTs but with Kooks I’ll be going shorties.
Just my opinion, I’ve seen some Coyotes run really well with cat delete and stock headers with muffler delete. Gen 2 and a 3. What I think would work well is the magnaflow 1 3/4 equal length headers with cat delete to an x and Borla over the axle with a good performance muffler. You will build more torque then long tube s and the x will still build mid and high range. Talk to the manufacturers bc they truly do there homework and dyno test all their components. Make sure you use a good tuner. Thanks for the question and supporting the channel. Good luck on your build!
Sean, if your question is to be able to toggle back and forth between keys the answer is no. I could be wrong but, once you tune on either key you will not be able to switch keys, I have never tried. Since the tune is no longer stock I wouldn't think you couldn't switch with out some risk if engine damage. Since my car was purchased used with an AM tune, I never tried my red key. I don't know if it was ever activated. I am tuned on the red key and the tuner said it would matter what key I tune on. Hit up TrakingPonies as he tuned on the red key with mods and has the lope tune activated. He may be able to help you out.
Thanks for sharing! Good information. I recently bought a 12 Boss and it seems stock; however, i tried a local ford dealer to get the ECU reflashed so I can put a Steeda tune on it. Apparently the car was tuned and they don't know how to reflash the ECU. Any suggestions or advice? Thanks!
@@jeffreygraves4120 I'm in a similar boat, I picked up some new parts and am getting a fresh tune anyway but my biggest concern would be if the vehicle was tuned, was it tuned with modified parts which were later removed to sell.
@@seanmackenzie8932 Glad I'm not the only one. Well have to share possible solutions once we find some lol. I have another Ford dealership I may try since they have a lot of performance level stangs. They might be more familiar. As of now Im having to resort back to Steeda for further advice. I'll let you know something once I found a legit solution. Congrats too btw! Such a great car with loads of potential waiting to be unleashed.
I to have a 2012 Boss it can be very painful, the boss is a gen 1 but the heads they're not gen 1 or gen 2, they are even an experimental or not experimental but they are a very high quality hard aluminum used in prototype experimental stuff like a 6.7 l scorpion diesel runs the same aluminum a much higher grade aluminum than normal, Gen 2 compares to the boss cylinder heads but they're not the same from what I have gathered, my next engine I've got a 5.2 l predator but I want to build a boss with Gen 2 ported cylinder heads and some really wild cams and 12.5:1 compression, just to see what happens.lol, keep the same recipe as the boss lightweight rotating assembly, forged, and extremely lightweight valve train I would like to lower the peak RPM but with the tunnel ram intake not going to happen. I'm going to try that with a procharger just to see how she runs with 700 flywheel, 609 wheel HP.
I may lower the compression with the ProCharger I should have a 9.5 to 1 compression with a procharger would be ideal but 12.5 to 1 maybe adequate 550 naturally aspirated that would be something with this lower gear ratio of this transmission as you pointed out.
Most recent update is on my giveaway video but I will share dyno results and tune in another video after Christmas since I have guests here. I had head work done on the Boss heads which increased flow by 15-20 cfm mostly in mid and high range on the intake side slow to mid on the exhaust side. Added the Boss Racing cams and made 9 whp more. A bit disturbing. But to gain hp on these NA builds compression and cams are what’s going to change things up. I leaning towards a Holley high ram intake to see if I can wake this build up. Your build sounds awesome by the way!
The goal for the car is to build a fun reliable car that can be the best of both worlds. It will never be a full drag car. The spring and front coil overs are for road performance and not drag race. Thanks for watching and your comments!
I wanna put a cam in my boss but i dont know what brand and what type. i drive mine on the street and im looking for more of the sound than the power. the power is nice but i really want a choppy idle.
You don’t have the track key on your Boss. If you are just looking for the sound I would recommend using the red key and get the following programmer lmr.com/item/M9603MBTKA/mustang-boss-trackey-kit-ford-performance-m-9603-mbtka
@@CoyoteProductionsBoss302 would it actually chomp pretty loud? because i want an aggressive idle not one that is just barely there. ive heard the lopey idle with a boss using the red key and it sounded ok but i would like something more than that. i do have the red key
With an aggressive idle you will loose drivability. $1600 plus labor ($3-$4k) you will hate the car. Just saying, add some race mufflers and open the side pipes on your red key, golden!
Depends on your build. If you’re staying NA yes. Gears are a torque multiplier so a lot more on the bottom and good punch in the mid range. A good tire and suspension helps plant the car too.
@@CoyoteProductionsBoss302 yea when I got the car I knew nothing about gears. So I though I don’t really need performance pack. Now looking back it was worth looking for that option. I’ve learned over time it also needs to be reved out.
@@Taino5.0 yeah my first mod was going 4.10 and it was great stock. The car stayed in its power band and was great until I started modding. Traction became an issue and I went back to 3.73 on a 27” tire and works good. I have a follower running 3.90 gear and he runs 11.30 et 1/4 (FBO) which is a really good time 2014 gt . I would think that might be a perfect gear for NA. I will keep the 3.73 and run a 26” tire for track use to get my gear lowered.
Fellow boss owner here. Appreciate the vids. When it comes to performance mods I’d say be careful because it’s already a track tuned car stock. It beat the M3 on Laguna Seca. I’ll mod aesthetics, exhaust, basic stuff… MGW shifter, things to prolong the transmission… but otherwise I’m keeping it as stock as possible.
@@Ben-ri8rg Probably about right all in. I added the head unit, speakers, and backup camera. I can add the amp and subwoofer later if I want but don’t really feel like I need to. A head unit can range from $500 to $1200 depending on what you get.
100% agree, cat back exhaust, CAI, tune, sound system, keep it stock as much as possible. These cars were extremely well designed to be what they are… changing internals and adding tons of HP only leads to more problems. Especially the transmission… among many other things.
Авто/Мото
I have modded many cars over the years, the reason I am now a Ford guy is Ford Performance. Ford Racing. I had a chance in 2005 at an SVT event to spend some time with the Ford guys. I did the Racing school at Miller Motorsports park a year later.... Ford has a massive amount of resources! Massive, engineers the best equipment design etc. They race these cars for years and work with Race teams "multimatic" Roush others all that knowledge and know how go into your car.... how anyone would think any after market could come even close is beyond me. Not saying companies dont make power they clearly can do that but at the end of the day everything is a trade off. You can simply not beat having OEM....
I totally agree! If this car wasn’t already modded I would have left it alone. Some learnings to get where I am today and this car is a solid piece and a blast to drive. Staying FBO with some head work coupled to Boss racing cams it’s going to be wild. Nothing like a Boss 302! Thanks for watching!
Fellow boss owner here. Appreciate the vids. When it comes to performance mods I’d say be careful because it’s already a track tuned car stock. It beat the M3 on Laguna Seca. I’ll mod asthmatics, exhaust, basic stuff… MGW shifter, things to prolong the transmission… but otherwise I’m keeping it as stock as possible.
me too...... 2013 Boss 302 "GOTTA HAVE IT GREEN " bone stock ....... keeping it that way and loving it.
I agree. Keep it stock
THIS IS A ROADRUNNER ENGINE ,, I WORKED ON THOSE ENGINES AT FORD ,, PERFECT ALL DAY RACE MOTOR
Awesome video! You just saved me a lot of money. Many thanks.
You are welcome!
checking out the content. always loved the boss. was looking at getting one back in 2015 but i loved the new body style when that came out. almost pulled the trigger before the new body style came out
S550s are good looking but I fell in love with the Boss.
@@CoyoteProductionsBoss302 i still want one
A boss.
302 with no shaker.That's a deal killer for me
If you were to spend some seat time with the car you would change your mind.
Good review. As a fellow Boss LS owner, I agree people need to understand just throwing a bunch of parts on a car isn't always a good answer, especially the modern stuff and even more so a car like the Boss 302. Throwing axle backs or CAI on a Boss will actually hurt power. Some cams will as well. I've always recommended the Cobra Jet kit for these cars. Suspension is already pretty good, especially the LS. A little more low end torque is all that's needed. Mine is stock with just a Carbon Fiber DS and better flywheel/clutch to protect the MT82
Thank you, I appreciate the positive feedback! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the honesty. Most people just brag about everything they spend money on, and you've just gave the true goods on each mod. Well done! I have a 2013 performance white, full stock, and will probably leave it as such, other than the gear shift issue. Not certain what to do to make it smooth similar to my Z06, but with guys like yourself, I'm sure I'll figure it out. Thanks again eh :-) 🇨🇦
Thanks for your support Bill! Smart choice to leave it stock, a blowshift racing bracket and short throw shifter is a nice mod and helps a ton. My favorite RUclips guy is Nick’s Garage out of Montreal area I believe. I love his videos!
@@CoyoteProductionsBoss302 Thanks for the heads up. I'll check out Nick for sure. Have a great Boss winter eh :-)
Clutch line needs to be replaced, plastic one comes stock in the car. That's what causes the clutch pedal dumping to the floor. If you're having issues with the shifting motion, replace the shifter bracket. Fords bracket has zip ties on them, ridiculous!
Corey thanks for the comments. I did replace the clutch line to a braided line during the clutch install. I also have a Blow Fish racing bracket in which greatly improved my shifting.
Thanks for supporting the channel!
I bought a 2013 Boss 302 new, stock everything including tires the best that car ran was like 12.60’s I’m gonna say, it just could not hook up to pull a high 1.60’s 60ft like it should do setup right. At the time Steeda had the best hp gain CAI on the market with tune! Installed that with a set of American racing long tubes with cats deleted! Off road x pipe! Changed out the clutch and installed a lighter flywheel and added a lighter driveshaft. Removed the front sway bar for better weight transfer to the back wheels and installed a set of race star wheels with 15/295 drag radials at back. Stock rear suspension still and car picked up a lot and ran best of 11.97/116. Stock intake and Tb. Also had installed a MGW shifter and bigger clutch Fluid line. Definitely has more potential but it was never built to drag race anyways. Hahahahaha
11.97 is a great time on 93 gas IMO. I ran best of 11.99 last fall with ported intake, e85, basically FBO. There are guys running into the low 11.1,11.2 with my set up. LCA should help you out of the hole. How much lighter flywheel did you go with? I just returned to a near stock weight flywheel because of misfires codes. Are you experiencing this?
@@CoyoteProductionsBoss302 I forgot the weight on that fly wheel if I recall correctly it was the ford racing billet fly wheel. My brother has this car now, as far as I know he has no misfire issues at least I’ve not ever heard, I know when I had it I didn’t have this issue, but I did go through 3 transmissions under warranty before I got fed up and replaced the clutch with a McLeod HD and then this billet aluminum fly wheel. My stock clutch got smoked a little and was blowing my transmissions due to third gear pile ups.
@@CoyoteProductionsBoss302 also the elevation here at our track is usually around +800ft
If its a FR billet your good that's 2 lbs lighter, I'm using that flywheel now.
@@smileskindheart1085 oh crap I was thinking 8000 ft. LOL
The L&M "intake only" cams were recommended to me. Full TiVCT control, no torque loss and easy to tune. They make more power than the 13mm lift CJ cams with only 12mm lift. And now L&M came out with paired exhaust cams.
Thanks I looked at those cams and the make good power. I wanted to keep this set up all Boss components and keep my 50 degrees of cam timing. We’ll get 25-30 hp with 20 ft lbs of torque. Not huge but will still idle like stock. Thanks for watching !!
Hey what’s up man, I gotta help you out a bit if your gonna drag race your boss 302 your spending money that’s unnecessary. It hose cams ain’t gonna do anything for you better off with a set of Comp cams but you’ll gain hp and lose tq, if your gonna do cams might as well do some head work. Cobra jet manifold is the best route to go with with a mono blade throttle throttle and a Ford racing cai or pmas. LU 47lb injectors is all you needed with no boost a pump. Suspension wise your doing a good job, a MGW shifter definitely makes shifting the mt82 a lot more enjoyable. My buddy holds the NA record at 10.47 with a 13 boss 302 I’m actually 2nd place with a 12 boss 302 10.80. 3.73’s best gear you can run with a 15X10 wheel and a 28X10.5 slick. Also gonna have to do some weight reduction, for tuning AED or John Lund.
Thanks bro! Yeah where I m going is to continue using the full VCT with the Boss cams. There good for 25 hp and I don’t want lock outs. Goal is to kick some old school na butt. Thanks for the tips though. I do plan on getting a better tune later on after my mod changes. Are you running a stock trans and Boss intake?
What rear springs are you running too? Thanks for watching!!
What’s your car weight? Thanks
If im buying a boss 302, I'm not modding it..lol..
At 30-40k,, lol,, with a boss 302, I'd be happy @ 444 HP/380TQ.
It's like taking the Mona Lisa and using crayons on her ..lol..lol.
Just put the red track key in and be happy.
This is like modding a 2013 662hp Shelby.
You want to fuck with mods, buy a base gt..
Good advice! I purchased the car with some mods, don’t have stock wheels or shocks. So my excuse to mod. LOL, plus I wanted a play car and my intent was to buy a GT, but in my search I saw this for sale and once I looked at it it was all over. Thanks for watching!
@@CoyoteProductionsBoss302 thank you for your video,,great information. At the end of the day it's your choice, yours alone. By modding, you do learn what works and what doesn't.
I have 2 mustangs, two '07s, mine is a modded GT, I kept her N/A.
3:73 gears, jlt Cai ser 3, get 500 throttle body, pypes long tubes with x pipe, 93 octane tune.
My GF'S is a plain Jane v6 convertible.
Anyway, I'm looking to get either a '12-13 Boss 302 or a '11-12 Shelby gt 500.
I won't mod either of those, like to keep those stock
Good video, where do you have your tire pressures settings at for daily driving, I have the 2014 mustang track pack; still trying to find the optimum tire pressure for my car.
CJ honestly I don’t know where my road tires are at. Maybe 40 psi. It’s recommended to run to manufacturers specifications to not cause abnormal wear and not decrease tire life.
Street launches on my MT ET drag bias ply I found 25 psi seemed to give me the best patch. Sometimes you have to do trial and error to find what works. Hope that helps! Thanks for commenting!
Are shorty headers ideal for this car? I’m thinking of purchasing either JBA or Kooks. If I go with JBA I’ll definitely be going LTs but with Kooks I’ll be going shorties.
Just my opinion, I’ve seen some Coyotes run really well with cat delete and stock headers with muffler delete. Gen 2 and a 3. What I think would work well is the magnaflow 1 3/4 equal length headers with cat delete to an x and Borla over the axle with a good performance muffler. You will build more torque then long tube s and the x will still build mid and high range. Talk to the manufacturers bc they truly do there homework and dyno test all their components. Make sure you use a good tuner. Thanks for the question and supporting the channel. Good luck on your build!
what was your experience dyno tuning with the red key? were you able to keep separate tunes or did you have to settle for a single tune
Sean, if your question is to be able to toggle back and forth between keys the answer is no. I could be wrong but, once you tune on either key you will not be able to switch keys, I have never tried. Since the tune is no longer stock I wouldn't think you couldn't switch with out some risk if engine damage.
Since my car was purchased used with an AM tune, I never tried my red key. I don't know if it was ever activated. I am tuned on the red key and the tuner said it would matter what key I tune on.
Hit up TrakingPonies as he tuned on the red key with mods and has the lope tune activated. He may be able to help you out.
Thanks for sharing! Good information. I recently bought a 12 Boss and it seems stock; however, i tried a local ford dealer to get the ECU reflashed so I can put a Steeda tune on it. Apparently the car was tuned and they don't know how to reflash the ECU. Any suggestions or advice? Thanks!
@@jeffreygraves4120 I'm in a similar boat, I picked up some new parts and am getting a fresh tune anyway but my biggest concern would be if the vehicle was tuned, was it tuned with modified parts which were later removed to sell.
@@seanmackenzie8932 Glad I'm not the only one. Well have to share possible solutions once we find some lol. I have another Ford dealership I may try since they have a lot of performance level stangs. They might be more familiar. As of now Im having to resort back to Steeda for further advice. I'll let you know something once I found a legit solution. Congrats too btw! Such a great car with loads of potential waiting to be unleashed.
I to have a 2012 Boss it can be very painful, the boss is a gen 1 but the heads they're not gen 1 or gen 2, they are even an experimental or not experimental but they are a very high quality hard aluminum used in prototype experimental stuff like a 6.7 l scorpion diesel runs the same aluminum a much higher grade aluminum than normal, Gen 2 compares to the boss cylinder heads but they're not the same from what I have gathered, my next engine I've got a 5.2 l predator but I want to build a boss with Gen 2 ported cylinder heads and some really wild cams and 12.5:1 compression, just to see what happens.lol, keep the same recipe as the boss lightweight rotating assembly, forged, and extremely lightweight valve train I would like to lower the peak RPM but with the tunnel ram intake not going to happen. I'm going to try that with a procharger just to see how she runs with 700 flywheel, 609 wheel HP.
I may lower the compression with the ProCharger I should have a 9.5 to 1 compression with a procharger would be ideal but 12.5 to 1 maybe adequate 550 naturally aspirated that would be something with this lower gear ratio of this transmission as you pointed out.
Most recent update is on my giveaway video but I will share dyno results and tune in another video after Christmas since I have guests here. I had head work done on the Boss heads which increased flow by 15-20 cfm mostly in mid and high range on the intake side slow to mid on the exhaust side. Added the Boss Racing cams and made 9 whp more. A bit disturbing. But to gain hp on these NA builds compression and cams are what’s going to change things up. I leaning towards a Holley high ram intake to see if I can wake this build up. Your build sounds awesome by the way!
Why do you want to turn a track car into a drag car?
The goal for the car is to build a fun reliable car that can be the best of both worlds. It will never be a full drag car. The spring and front coil overs are for road performance and not drag race. Thanks for watching and your comments!
I wanna put a cam in my boss but i dont know what brand and what type. i drive mine on the street and im looking for more of the sound than the power. the power is nice but i really want a choppy idle.
You don’t have the track key on your Boss.
If you are just looking for the sound I would recommend using the red key and get the following programmer
lmr.com/item/M9603MBTKA/mustang-boss-trackey-kit-ford-performance-m-9603-mbtka
@@CoyoteProductionsBoss302 would it actually chomp pretty loud? because i want an aggressive idle not one that is just barely there. ive heard the lopey idle with a boss using the red key and it sounded ok but i would like something more than that. i do have the red key
With an aggressive idle you will loose drivability. $1600 plus labor ($3-$4k) you will hate the car. Just saying, add some race mufflers and open the side pipes on your red key, golden!
Is it worth going to a 3.73 from a 3:31?
Depends on your build. If you’re staying NA yes. Gears are a torque multiplier so a lot more on the bottom and good punch in the mid range.
A good tire and suspension helps plant the car too.
@@CoyoteProductionsBoss302 yea when I got the car I knew nothing about gears. So I though I don’t really need performance pack. Now looking back it was worth looking for that option. I’ve learned over time it also needs to be reved out.
@@Taino5.0 yeah my first mod was going 4.10 and it was great stock. The car stayed in its power band and was great until I started modding. Traction became an issue and I went back to 3.73 on a 27” tire and works good. I have a follower running 3.90 gear and he runs 11.30 et 1/4 (FBO) which is a really good time 2014 gt . I would think that might be a perfect gear for NA. I will keep the 3.73 and run a 26” tire for track use to get my gear lowered.
@@CoyoteProductionsBoss302 yea I have a 16 GT. I like 3.31s on the highway but I want a faster 0-60. It feels a little gutless down low.
3.31 gears make far more sense...
Not for a NA car.
What? Wanted to listen couldn’t
I’m not sure what you are trying to say? The audio is working on the video.
Your hell bent on ruining your car bro.Id say just stop it.
In my opinion I have greatly improved the car since this video. Everything is now bulletproof and enjoying the car.
Fellow boss owner here. Appreciate the vids. When it comes to performance mods I’d say be careful because it’s already a track tuned car stock. It beat the M3 on Laguna Seca. I’ll mod aesthetics, exhaust, basic stuff… MGW shifter, things to prolong the transmission… but otherwise I’m keeping it as stock as possible.
I would only add to that, head unit, speakers, and backup camera.
@@SColmant did you do this mod? Open to suggestions but got a quote for amp and sub with current head unit for $1800!! Crazy… spendy right now
@@Ben-ri8rg Probably about right all in. I added the head unit, speakers, and backup camera. I can add the amp and subwoofer later if I want but don’t really feel like I need to. A head unit can range from $500 to $1200 depending on what you get.
100% agree, cat back exhaust, CAI, tune, sound system, keep it stock as much as possible. These cars were extremely well designed to be what they are… changing internals and adding tons of HP only leads to more problems. Especially the transmission… among many other things.