Wow thats dedication...one yr for a video. Not to mention hours just to prep for the test...plus you shot down the king of rust prevention....thanks for your time and dedication to real world testing!!!
Naa he didn't at all. Because he never put a top coat on it. It says right on the can that if you have it in direct sunlight you HAVE to put the top coat on it.
As someone who used a different product over a winter in Maine, I can't imagine what any of these would look like after a winter of snow, salt and ice. Thanks you for doing this test!
@@CountyGarage207 Especially if you use the full prep kit. I did the roof rack, skid plates and bumpers on my jeep with that stuff and it's held up well here in Michigan, right on the coast of Lake Michigan with all the lake effect and extra helpings of salt on the roads.
Literally all of it will peel off in a few years with 5 layers of rust scale behind it. This kind of stuff is a rust accelerant. Just use fluid film instead.
@@ding9633 Fluid Film does nOT work here in Maine. I sued that several years ago, and it was simply a waste of money and time. Maybe in a different climate it would work, but definitely not here.
Thanks for the video and looking at the stuff a year later. What I have used for several years is first I put a coating of Ospho on it. After it dries overnight I give it a coat of "Zero-Rust". coating. After years, no rust. Tom
Excellent - and if you can do a two year result it will add even more credibility to the results. The fact you did it by only doing minor prep was the most convincing to me. This is probably 90% of us. Thanks.
Dude. You left that out in the sun and weather. POR 15 react to UV. It breaks down. If you plan on using it like that you have to use a top coat. Most people use it for frames.
that applies with all of them.best results takes 4 steps.(sand rust off first) Rust stop/converter, Rust primer, undercoat/paint, then you apply something like crv marine, or pb blasters new product SURFACE SHIELD..you can use anything that doesnt dry..vaseline transmistion fluid
Wow, that was a lot of effort and time you spent to do the comparison. FYI, I bought the POR kit you used because I wanted to use it on clean/bare metal and that was what they (POR) said to use. The cleaner was for removing any process or shipping/storage coating. The metal prep was some acidic chemical to minutely etch the new metal so the POR Rust Coating would adhere well. I also bought a quart of POR gloss black to use directly on my rusty metal frame. It doesn't require the use of the other two products.
Your best bet is using a rust converter, which generally create a rust proof compound, like iron phosphate or magnetite. These converters are also generally good as a primed surface, so can be painted over w/ a quality top coat, especially for UV protection and as a seal coat.
I'm a loyal Eastwood customer. I've been restoring a 2003 Chevy Astro Van using their Rust Encapsulator Plus and their chassis paint. The rust has to be removed, I normally remove about 95% of it. Then I wipe the surface down with lacquer thinner and paint with a brush. It works great. The last step is Cosmoline spray. Then you touch up the underbody annually using the same process.
We should ask the Navy. They spend A LOT of money every year for rust prevention on steel warships that live in salt water. I'm sure they will have some great techniques for surviving dry land.
Excellent video, thank you. I would be interested to see how the paint tests stand up if you bolted the bar under your car for a year and then washed it clean after it has been exposed to some real world activity, salt, dirt, spray etc etc.
Really the salt-spray test is the industry standard test in regards to accelerating exposure to the elements. I'd imagine there's a way to simulate it at home without having the equipment. Probably spraying it with salt water every so often would be adequate, or maybe soaking for a period of time.
I recommend to all of you to use an oil-based gloss or a high gloss paint in a can, and not in a spray bottle, and apply it with the brush. It is the best way you can do to slow down the rusting, and maybe even to stop it entirely at some places. Only an oil-based paint can fight the rust for a very long time, and the more glossy it is, the better it will withstand the water, chemicals and salt. Sprays usually don't work for a long time, mostly a year or two.
Yup, I switched from Aerosol to Rustoleum / Ace - oil based paint. I use a standard oil brush or roll it on with foam.3 coats. Goes on so thick, you know it's going to smother that rust. A lot cheaper too.
Thanks for the video. I painted the frame of my 78 F150 two years ago POR 15 very disappointing. Getting ready to do another car and not using it again for sure
I drive in salt every winter, and have experimented a little. I have used Rust Encapsulator on my Blazer frame and bottom of body, I did not do the best prep work, mostly because I wanted to see if it worked with a quick not so good prep. Rust came back over the winter, but better than it was before painting it. I tried som zink spray on some rust at the bottom of the doors, also relative poor prep to see how it worked, the rust got through in the winter.. I painted over some rust with Hammerite in the middle of the winter, poor prep as usual, the rust has actually not come back yet, but I predict it will, but it seems like a though paint. The prep is usually air driven fiber discs, and some sort of cleaner after, like Acryl(Naphta/Xylene) or Thinner, but depends. In the end, rust sucks. Best result is bare clean metal before any kind of paint, but you sure can slow the rust down, and if you do some touching up now and then and wash it regularly, you can keep rusty things alive a good while if you put some energy into it. Mudflaps and some kind of protection against gravel, mud and water constantly beating on the metal is a good way to keep stuff nice much, much longer.
Chassis saver and Por 15 dry with moisture and air, don't shake them, you will get little dry paint balls(?) in your paint, just stir them. Por and Chassis Saver do not have UV protection so they will fade and get chalky. And you don't want to get them on your skin!
To be fair the POR 15 can says "do not shake (causes bubbling)" right in the instructions. Other than that this is a sick video and took some time! Thanks!
Great video! I need to paint my undercarriage, and I'll go with the Ace Rust Stop. That seems like a great value. It also comes in multiple colors, so I can match the factor color fairly close.
Please o’ please test rust encapsulators/converters - the kind you can paint or spray directly over rust. I am super interested to know which ones convert the rust into paintable metal best without re-rusting, and which ones create the best long term environmental elements protection.
i am working on a rusty vw vanagon. i used por 15 last summer, have not driven the van, and am not too excited about the results. like the video says, rust will come through ( i did 2 heavy coats), and i am seeing some spots that have chipped in chunks meaning it probably didnt bond well( even though i used por 15 metal etcher, sanded, and used the por 15 cleaner). the por 15 is also, in some spots exposed to sun, getting dusty and rubbing off. idk i thought i followed their directions. I got some chassis saver, and for the past 2 days have been working on the first coat of the rear of the van ( while i have the motor and trans out for Subaru swap). I have to say, i like the finish alot better after it has dried. its glossy, and definitely stuck on there real good. it doesnt scratch easily and is 1/4 the effort of por 15. ill update this reveiw in a while. if it lasts, im chassis saver all the way. if not i will be trying the one highest rated in this video.( i did not just start with " the best already because i just saw this video today)
If you would have read most of those. They say not to expose to direct sunlight. The POR15 has a specific too coat for anything exposed to sun light. If you would have done that, The POR15 last for years.
I used Chassis saver best product out there did the frame on my truck 3 years ago and no rain sleet or snow or road salt has done any damage to my frame AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++ product
My choice Wurth Rust guard, more of an industrial product but it is about the best, German engineered and all that....and BTW, the Wurth will also double as resin for fiberglass, it has the needed release agent in it to bond the glass matting or weave......great stuff....just DO NOT GET ON SKIN.......it will not come off until your skin grows out, about 2 weeks.......Some rust encapsulators may need 2 coats if the rust is rough........and remember, Dont buy anything that says "rust converter"..........because one you got ferrous oxide, the chemical change of the steel has already taken place, thats why you need to "encapsulate it" to prevent any more air from continuing the ozadation process of the steel/iron
@@kevinbryant6459 Hey good luck with the Stang, I bought new a 89 LX hatch 5.0 and sold after 2 years and got into Harleys for about 20 yrs.......and with any of the rust guard or POR..Paint over rust, wear a respirator and gloves and long sleeves if you can, this stuff is very tenacious in nature, and as I remember, higher humidity is better too, read the can, and if you want to reseal and use again, put plastic wrap over the open can, then tap lid on, of course get all the excess out of the can lid groove......other advice, pour out what you may use into plastic paint cup instead of dipping brush in and out of can because it can contaminate the product in the can........I buy it in quarts and use as needed, get loose rust off if you can, but dont make it smooth, this stuff needs a rough surface to adhere better, and if you need to do 2 coats, you gotta do it in I think less than 24 hrs, will say on the can.....
Joseph Klimchock hey thanx i really appreciate that. I choose the POR a few times before and it works decent I might try the chassis saver this round I hear good thing about that as well.
Great video, I know some have a disclaimer that it needed to be top coated to protect from UV rays, you hope your chassis never sees the sun XD maybe you can do annual updates, thanks for the effort.
Good test! Very surprised by the POR. I'd love to see how these compare to just using phosphoric acid to treating the rust and top coating with regular paint.
Ace rust stop is great stuff I use it a lot. I have had great luck with por but it has no UV protection so if it is exposed to the sun it need's a top coat of some kind.
Great video! Am I the only one who thinks a green frame would be kinda awesome? It would be a little reminder that you did the extra effort to protect your ride every time you see it... Out of curiosity, have you tried painting other colors over the top of this stuff?
I painted a chev squarebody frame white with 3 coats of green pearl suspended in a binder coat last year. Looked pretty slick, but I doubt you’ll be able to see the “flip” of the pearl with the frame being under the (lowered) truck and no light hitting it. That green alone would look pretty slick!
the chassis on my 1985 Toyots Hilux (Toyota Truck) is perfect and it's never been coated. Its been in the family for >20 years. The body has been slowly rusting for the last 15 years though. One solution I found was using rust converter, then anti rust paint, then covering it in tar! After 10 years of that the rust hadnt spread, as it never got wet. Unfortunately I cant really tar thr outside of the car, so more places spread into seams. Im now treating those spots as best I can to try to keep the vehicle going for 10 more years, garaged or covered as much as possible. But I sure am glad to live in one if the dryest areas of the planet, that never sees snow or road salt! When I see those American Toyotas you can just tear apart with your hand it is shocking!
right on great video ---- i just bought 100 bucks worth of POR15 about an hour ago for my truck axles and frame fml ---- however after 1 year with a topcoat on my previously rusty running board brackets the POR15 still looks great :)
Good job my friend, but Ive used POR15 for the past 20 years and POR15 is not meant to be left in the sun, its a body under coating, you would have to have used their spray coating for exposed finishes. I have two fenders on my 61 I did 15 years ago and not a spec of rust with the POR15 or peeling, But for the price of the green suff it did a good job...
Important to note also that on the can it says POR15 is not UV stable. Without following full instructions it’s to be expected that it would break down. Thanks for the video though. I have not chosen any product for my car yet so this has given me many options to consider 👍
Sandblast metal, treat metal with OSPHO ( which is 45%Orthophosphoric Acid) or other approved metal conditioner, then apply two coats of 2 part epoxy primer. That’s the best solution. Nothing on earth will stick to a rusty surface long term. The rust will come back if it’s not mostly removed then chemically treated. Also, always apply a topcoat on a primed service. Primer is not meant to survive all weather conditions without a topcoat of paint.
Never had issue with POR15. I find the worse the metal the better it works. It likes a really crusty rough surface and it is UV sensitive. Did an Airstream frame almost 10 yrs ago and it still looks fine. You just need to get grease off and the really big chunks of rust. Best way to prep new metal is leave it outside for a month or more and then it is perfect.
I am not real familiar with most of these products but seeing is believing. I have used POR and Eastwood and had very good long term results. I haven’t looked close at the Eastwood but POR says direct sun light will deteriorate the coating. I paint over the products I have used so that may be why it last. The POR also says it gets harder the more it is exposed to moisture. I have an old car frame that I painted with POR over 20 years ago and it has stayed in The elements the whole time a very small amount has pealed off but I am very impressed. I would imagine that painting over all of these would make a big difference and they may ALL be totally satisfactory. As one person said, you have done something that most people on you tube never do when comparing products and you have done a great job my friend. You now have one more subscriber. Thank you.
ompenarnie you can prime and use any paint you want. POR makes tie coat that is an excellent primer. I have used a skim coat of filler over the tie coat with good luck. I can’t say how long this will last because it was on a frame of a truck that is driven regularly. It has held up for over two years. As with any product, follow instructions and do not miss any thing. Lot of people on you tube will cut corners and say it does not matter but none of them show any signs of being a chemical engineer or polymer scientist so I follow instructions because I am neither of these. I said all of that to say this, when I started using POR it was not recommended to use a metal etch so I have never used it before using the product. Your question let’s me know you are serious about your project so IMO I think it would be wise to use any product as instructed. I have used Eastwood a few times with no complaints. This video shows good results but not POR. I use 2 to 3 light coats. Do not discount this video because I have had great results with POR. I will check out the green inside frame for myself. I wish you the best with whichever you chose and years of service. 👍🤙😃👍
The POR really needs to be top coated to protect it from UV rays. UV breaks it down really quickly. I've tried some stuff called Extend that is supposed to covert rust. After priming and top coating, the rust has always come back. With POR it has not. Great video. I may get that Eastwood green stuff.
I have had good results with a product called Rust Destroyer. If sprayed on in the heat and sun baked to dry you need to use a grinder to remove it. Sandpaper hardly marks it.
One comment on the Por15, it says it is supposed to be painted over because it is not as UV stable, could be the reason it underperformed but who knows.
POR15 don't do well in uv light it's meant for under the car and like engine bays. I just did my whole engine bay in it yesterday. It looks great. But I'll do the bed of the truck in the Ace
I painted a trailer with rustoleum red primer and a red topcoat. It's held up for 25 years sitting outside in the sun and rain. Only degradation is that the red topcoat has faded.
looks like we spray some cleaner on the rusted area after using a wire brush. Then hit with ACE and then as Cosmoline based spray can coating such as Crown.
Funny how the most famous and most highly acclaimed product - POR15 - always seems to come out last in such tests. In another video, the reviewer pressure washed the different metal pieces and the POR-15 peeled right off in sheets. That's why we all owe reviewers like GODSPEED garage a BIG THANK YOU for showing us the real world results versus the marketing HYPE.
I was under the impression that POR 15 had to be protected, i.e. paint coated once dry. Could that be the reason it failed? I have been using it for about 6 years, in that many vehicles,. Thank you for the test. I do think I like the (green) Internal Frame Coating. and the Rust Stop from Ace, as indicated by you.
you're probably right... from what I've read, it doesn't HAVE to be covered, but people do because it oxidizes and fades. plus, none of the other paints need to be top coated... have you had any issues with POR 15? I was really hoping it was going to work. thanks again for watching!
@@GODSPEEDGarage The truth is that I have not had any issues with POR15, but I have always used it for interiors, except once, on the inside of a rear bumper on a 1968 GMC. I do not have access to the literature right now, but I recall, or I think I do recall, that the product should not be left expose (to the sun?). Granted, I always put 2 coats to make sure the bare or rusted metal is 100% covered. Thank you for the product testing you do. Next opportunity I have, I will try the Internal Frame, and the Rust Stop, for interior & exterior pieces, respectively.
@@guillermonieri4203 yeah that's what I read as well... but I wanted to really put them all to the test in extreme environment: sun, rain, snow... not to mention the SEVERELY rusted 90 year old metal! the instructions on the POR 15 also said "for best results media blast", but... obviously I didn't do that... I wanted to see how well they all covered rust... in this case EXTREME rust
I remember reading that por 15 only does well when under a vehicle or not in direct sunlight I’m pretty sure this is in their website. I think this is the reason why it failed and didn’t hold up.
Many products won't hold up to long term exposure to UV light, unless it has UV protection built into it. I know for sure that POR-15 isn't rated for it, they recommend a topcoat for UV protection. Obviously on something like a frame, floor pans, etc. it'd be fine. You really have to get that mil thickness up on products like that.
Everyone keeps saying POR 15 is not UV resistant. From what I can tell, he read the instructions on the cans and followed them to the letter (I about laughed when they had him soaking metal for the POR 15. Imagine doing all that for your frame?). As I see it, the defenders of POR 15 have two potential problems: (1) they didn't inform that it needed to be top-coated; (2) on top of all the financial and prep hoops you have to jump through for POR 15, you *still* have to top coat it for UV protection. Edit: someone noted that POR 15 says you have to top-coat it in its instructions. Fair enough. Thanks for the review. I have bought some other rust converter from Lowes that works fine. However, I am getting ready for some serious frame restoration and needed this kind of info. I am now confirmed in my intentions to use the Eastwood inner frame spray (with their 360 degree nozzle), but there is no way I am going to drop a ton of cash and prep on POR 15. I do wish you had included something like Rustoleum (very common brand for this kind of thing). Thanks again for a great video!
I am looking to an alternative to por-15 myself. It doesn't dry really nice even on good metal. Sections of a peel right off after about a year or so. I'm not sure if anything really stops rust permanently like they say. I was disappointed in por-15 myself because they say it is indestructible but it peels pretty easily and it definitely can crack and chip off. I switched over from chassis saver. I'm looking into trying Eastwood next. I like that you can get it in a can as well. For those hard-to-reach areas where the brush can't really get into.
I've used the Rustoleum Rust Reformer on an AG mower as the base coat over a lot of rusted metal, then top coated with an enamel paint to match my tractor. 4 years later, no bleed through or additional rust bubbles. I would say it works pretty good, and wont hesitate to use it again. I bought a quart of POR 15 for a manure spreader, along with the top coat paint, and will give it a test in that. If anything, a manure spreader takes more punishment than anything salt sprayed in the winter. Poop eats through just about anything.
Why did we not do good ol' Rustolium? This stuff has been an industry standard since the 1920s. It can even be tuned up with automotive enamel paint hardener catalyst for even better performance. Try it, you'll like it PS: Por 15 is very finicky, does not like clean bare metal, and if not applied strictly by the book is failure prone. I would never recommend it except for an old swing set or an oil rig.... ....RooDog....
This a great video Sir. I'll be interested to see what they do in another year. I am stripped down with my Jeep frame now. '87 never driven in winter but it has been outside most of it. No real rust for the NE although a lot of surface underneath. I'm using Eastwood in the frame. Not sure outside yet.
I've been curious about that too... it's a bit more on the expensive side, but I've had good experiences with other Eastwood paints, so it might be worth trying. thanks for watching!
The condensation drip pan on my home AC central air unit had flaky rust that clogged the drain hole. I removed the flakes and coated it with a rust encapsulator that I bought at the local hardware store (I don't even remember the name of the product). It's now been over 30 years with no additional leaks. On another note, here's an additional vote for red oxide primer. Regular primer will not seal metal surfaces.
Thanks for the tip on the home AC. I have been fighting something similar and for some reason it never occurred to me to deploy your solution. Thanks for taking the time to write about it!
Just trying to be fool proof. But deep down the same steps should be applied with all of them. Degreasing, cleaning away the loose flaky rust, neutralise the rest of the rust with phosphoric acid and paint over when dry. Anything less and you risk the rust encapsulator becoming loose and peeling off in chunks.
I can’t speak to any of the others, but the chassis saver is not uv resistant unless you add magnets uc stabilizer. I have had mine on my crawler for years now and I am very pleased with it. Regardless, good video.
@@chrisgraham2904 POR15 does have one Achilles heel - it must have a top coat if it is going to be in direct sunlight, U.V. light breaks it down without a top coat.
@@Thomas63r2 Yes, POR15 is a more complicated 3-step process, so it's more time consuming and more expensive. I would use POR15 if I had a bare frame sitting on the floor, with the body or bed removed for a true restoration. I don't think it has added value when the frame and body are intact and not everything can be reached for treatment.
Great video surprised about the results looked at all the products expect Ace rust stop for what I need for interior under the carpet in my Jeep Wrangler I'm going to give it a try Again great long term test 👍👍
Great video but you took the time to read the POR15 instructions and STILL shook it! Lol...after watching a few vids on rust treatments, I’ve seen this happen every time with POR15..oh well. Thanks for the video!
I have had great success (several years, no issue) with POR15 when combined with a topcoat paint (per instructions). This entire review is suspect given the fact that only “some” of the instructions were followed. I would LOVE to see another attempt. Wonder if the other brands’ instruct users to paint with topcoat?
None of these work unless you remove the rust. I also used the internal frame coating by Eastwood which is designed to be the exception. Once you coat the inside of the frame and the paint cures, use Cosmoline on the inside of your frame. Eastwood makes 3 levels of rust encapsulator. I use the mid grade and it words fantastic if you apply it correctly. After sanding you must wipe it down with lacquer thinner or a surface prep product to remove residues such as rust, grease, dirt, etc. The paint won't stick to heavy corrosion or grime. Also get yourself the Eastwood 2 inch disc surface prep tool and a small air powered belt sander for the tight spots. Their surface prep tool really does the job and the belt sander gets the tight spots. Never do a build without first restoring the underbody. If you don't within a short time your work and your investment will be lost.
por15 has to be top coated if exposed to light. That said when I used it, it wasn't thin at all. It was quite thick and gloopy. Not sure why it was so thin.
Great Video. Wish I would have seen this before using POR15. I redid the portion of my 14 F150 just under the running boards. I stripped it down to bare metal, used the screen bondo for the holes. POR'd the entire surface 2 times (per directions). 2 coats of primer, 3 coats of finish and 4 clear. within 2 months rust began to bleed thru. I had it in a garage for 2 weeks during the process. Very disappointed in the Por product. Have to start over with the Eastwood maybe??
Por needs rust to work you cant strip the rust off. I think the directions even say that. Also you have to topcoat any part thats gonna be in sunlight it’s extremely uv sensitive and breaks down in the sun. Treated my truck frame with it 3 years ago still no rust and i live in the rust belt
Thank you for the real effort you put into this! A full one year test... awesome! I really considered por15... but after this video... i think i'll save my money.
There's an easier and faster way to test this... just spray with salt water and diluted hydrogen peroxide until one starts failing and keep going until the last one fails. Whatever fails last, that's the only thing you should use on your car.
I think he was trying to reproduce the earth's atmospheric conditions that our vehicles are subject to over time--not the corrosive conditions of Venus in fast motion. In other words, a test that you propose really serves to show which product holds up to a daily unrelenting harsh conditions that don't exist. I am more interested in real world, real time analysis. Apples to apples.
@@thegoodearth7 Salt and Oxygen are very Earthly. Either way, the the best bet would be to put the part back on the car and drive it in regular road conditions through dirt, gravel, snow, road salt and high speeds the way you'd expect. Those conditions would more realistically display earths atmospheric conditions for cars. That metal part probably came from an area on the car that's not exposed to any UV, which those products don't appear to stand up to very well since they weren't designed for that.
real world coating test? nice. was thinking of this for my 62 Nova. that Eastwood internal frame coating looks like the champ. if you use it on the underside and wheel well you can just shoot over it with black paint and Bam! aesthetic.
Tried Rust encapsulator on my Tacoma frame. Needle scaled and chip hammered frame first. After one year black paint was gone, rust was there. Also used internal frame coating, rust is showing through. I now went back over frame with needle scaler and chipping hammer again and applied POR15. Ill look at that in one year.
So why you thing it will be better this time? Rust is still behind. You bought truck with boxed frame and it is all, game over. Yet thanks for testing internal frame coating.
The rust tests I see on RUclips all lack one important scientific parameter: the actuall thickness of the coating is not measured! How do we know if the product has actually been coated to the prescribed thickness? Or, how do we know if one of the products tested is actually exceeding the recommended thickness? Such factors give one product an advantage over another in the test. That variable must be eliminated! What is required is a paint thickness gauge, and the most basic kind looks like a ball-point pen, containing a magnet and spring. The magnet attaches itself to the surface, and is connected within the pen by a spring; as you pull the pen away from the painted surface, you read the thickness on the scale of the extended internal part, at the point where the magnet looses contact. The thicker the coating over the steel, the weaker the hold the magnet has on the surface. I have one called the "Auto-Lak-Test".
thanks for watching and thanks for the input! I really do appreciate it... however, with all due respect, that's actually not true - according to POR-15, if it's exposed to sun, "protection will remain, but the sun will change its appearance COSMETICALLY." If you'd like further testing check out my video "SHAKEN or STIRRED - MYTHBUSTING POR-15" here: ruclips.net/video/Pvp8G6wyqzU/видео.html
I used some POR 15 stuff back in the 90s on my floorboards and had to grind off the drips underneath, as it was rock hard. Don't recall if it was rust preventative or not. Guessing now maybe not... Also used their gas tank cleaner and sealer. Had great results with that too.
Kilz Rust Cap is no longer available as they have stopped making it. Krylon who makes the Ace Rust Stop product has a new product called Fusion All in One that also encapsulates rust.
You have to top coat the POR 15 as it is extremely UV sensitive without a top coat. It breaks down very quickly when not properly sealed.
Wow thats dedication...one yr for a video. Not to mention hours just to prep for the test...plus you shot down the king of rust prevention....thanks for your time and dedication to real world testing!!!
Naa he didn't at all. Because he never put a top coat on it. It says right on the can that if you have it in direct sunlight you HAVE to put the top coat on it.
As someone who used a different product over a winter in Maine, I can't imagine what any of these would look like after a winter of snow, salt and ice. Thanks you for doing this test!
I live up near Caribou, and POR15.. it seems to survive the winters luckily!
@@CountyGarage207 Especially if you use the full prep kit. I did the roof rack, skid plates and bumpers on my jeep with that stuff and it's held up well here in Michigan, right on the coast of Lake Michigan with all the lake effect and extra helpings of salt on the roads.
Literally all of it will peel off in a few years with 5 layers of rust scale behind it. This kind of stuff is a rust accelerant. Just use fluid film instead.
@@ding9633 Fluid Film does nOT work here in Maine. I sued that several years ago, and it was simply a waste of money and time. Maybe in a different climate it would work, but definitely not here.
@@jackiegammon2065 Oh. What works better in Maine?
I hope you saved that length of steel for the 2 year review.
Spray some salt water on it.
ruclips.net/video/QmwjA-2E_b8/видео.html
@@brian55lvr Thanks
Yeah baby !
Thanks for the video and looking at the stuff a year later. What I have used for several years is first I put a coating of Ospho on it. After it dries overnight I give it a coat of "Zero-Rust". coating. After years, no rust. Tom
Excellent - and if you can do a two year result it will add even more credibility to the results. The fact you did it by only doing minor prep was the most convincing to me. This is probably 90% of us. Thanks.
Good video . Thanks. Finally someone has done a home time comparison . Well done. !
Classic car mag in the UK did a 3yr independent test on 8 or so products. Left in the elements for those 3yrs. Por15 was one of the worst performers.
Dude. You left that out in the sun and weather. POR 15 react to UV. It breaks down. If you plan on using it like that you have to use a top coat. Most people use it for frames.
The thing with the POR 15 is that it really needs a top coat to protect it. It is really UV sensitive and will fade badly when not coated
that applies with all of them.best results takes 4 steps.(sand rust off first) Rust stop/converter, Rust primer, undercoat/paint, then you apply something like crv marine, or pb blasters new product SURFACE SHIELD..you can use anything that doesnt dry..vaseline transmistion fluid
Wow, that was a lot of effort and time you spent to do the comparison. FYI, I bought the POR kit you used because I wanted to use it on clean/bare metal and that was what they (POR) said to use. The cleaner was for removing any process or shipping/storage coating. The metal prep was some acidic chemical to minutely etch the new metal so the POR Rust Coating would adhere well. I also bought a quart of POR gloss black to use directly on my rusty metal frame. It doesn't require the use of the other two products.
Your best bet is using a rust converter, which generally create a rust proof compound, like iron phosphate or magnetite. These converters are also generally good as a primed surface, so can be painted over w/ a quality top coat, especially for UV protection and as a seal coat.
I'm a loyal Eastwood customer. I've been restoring a 2003 Chevy Astro Van using their Rust Encapsulator Plus and their chassis paint. The rust has to be removed, I normally remove about 95% of it. Then I wipe the surface down with lacquer thinner and paint with a brush. It works great. The last step is Cosmoline spray. Then you touch up the underbody annually using the same process.
We should ask the Navy. They spend A LOT of money every year for rust prevention on steel warships that live in salt water. I'm sure they will have some great techniques for surviving dry land.
Thanks for putting in the time to help viewers make an informed decision.
POR-15 directions say not to expose to direct light, spraying rubberized coating or another paint over the POR-15 will give better results as well
Excellent video, thank you. I would be interested to see how the paint tests stand up if you bolted the bar under your car for a year and then washed it clean after it has been exposed to some real world activity, salt, dirt, spray etc etc.
Really the salt-spray test is the industry standard test in regards to accelerating exposure to the elements. I'd imagine there's a way to simulate it at home without having the equipment. Probably spraying it with salt water every so often would be adequate, or maybe soaking for a period of time.
A mix of peroxide, salt, and water. Spray on and it will rust bare metal immediately
I recommend to all of you to use an oil-based gloss or a high gloss paint in a can,
and not in a spray bottle, and apply it with the brush.
It is the best way you can do to slow down the rusting, and maybe even to stop it entirely at some places.
Only an oil-based paint can fight the rust for a very long time, and the more glossy it is, the better it will withstand the water, chemicals and salt.
Sprays usually don't work for a long time, mostly a year or two.
Yup, I switched from Aerosol to Rustoleum / Ace - oil based paint. I use a standard oil brush or roll it on with foam.3 coats. Goes on so thick, you know it's going to smother that rust. A lot cheaper too.
Thanks for the video. I painted the frame of my 78 F150 two years ago POR 15 very disappointing. Getting ready to do another car and not using it again for sure
I drive in salt every winter, and have experimented a little.
I have used Rust Encapsulator on my Blazer frame and bottom of body, I did not do the best prep work, mostly because I wanted to see if it worked with a quick not so good prep. Rust came back over the winter, but better than it was before painting it.
I tried som zink spray on some rust at the bottom of the doors, also relative poor prep to see how it worked, the rust got through in the winter..
I painted over some rust with Hammerite in the middle of the winter, poor prep as usual, the rust has actually not come back yet, but I predict it will, but it seems like a though paint.
The prep is usually air driven fiber discs, and some sort of cleaner after, like Acryl(Naphta/Xylene) or Thinner, but depends.
In the end, rust sucks. Best result is bare clean metal before any kind of paint, but you sure can slow the rust down, and if you do some touching up now and then and wash it regularly, you can keep rusty things alive a good while if you put some energy into it.
Mudflaps and some kind of protection against gravel, mud and water constantly beating on the metal is a good way to keep stuff nice much, much longer.
Can we see how it holds up to a few weeks' immersion in a salt-water solution, to simulate exposure to salted road conditions?
That’s a real good suggestion… As well as how it stands up to heat And scratches
would be a better test if you attached the rod to your car for a year.
Chassis saver and Por 15 dry with moisture and air, don't shake them, you will get little dry paint balls(?) in your paint, just stir them. Por and Chassis Saver do not have UV protection so they will fade and get chalky. And you don't want to get them on your skin!
To be fair the POR 15 can says "do not shake (causes bubbling)" right in the instructions. Other than that this is a sick video and took some time! Thanks!
I believe chassis saver says much the same thing
POR is broken down by UV and has to be top coated. Also don’t shake.
Great video! I need to paint my undercarriage, and I'll go with the Ace Rust Stop. That seems like a great value. It also comes in multiple colors, so I can match the factor color fairly close.
I've had great luck with the Ace Rust Stop. thanks for watching!
I work there so you better believe- I get the ACE employee discount LOL! I will be using it for my undercarriage on my 2001 Jeep XJ
Please o’ please test rust encapsulators/converters - the kind you can paint or spray directly over rust. I am super interested to know which ones convert the rust into paintable metal best without re-rusting, and which ones create the best long term environmental elements protection.
Wow, a 1 year test! Well done.
i am working on a rusty vw vanagon. i used por 15 last summer, have not driven the van, and am not too excited about the results. like the video says, rust will come through ( i did 2 heavy coats), and i am seeing some spots that have chipped in chunks meaning it probably didnt bond well( even though i used por 15 metal etcher, sanded, and used the por 15 cleaner). the por 15 is also, in some spots exposed to sun, getting dusty and rubbing off. idk i thought i followed their directions.
I got some chassis saver, and for the past 2 days have been working on the first coat of the rear of the van ( while i have the motor and trans out for Subaru swap). I have to say, i like the finish alot better after it has dried. its glossy, and definitely stuck on there real good. it doesnt scratch easily and is 1/4 the effort of por 15. ill update this reveiw in a while. if it lasts, im chassis saver all the way. if not i will be trying the one highest rated in this video.( i did not just start with " the best already because i just saw this video today)
If you would have read most of those. They say not to expose to direct sunlight. The POR15 has a specific too coat for anything exposed to sun light. If you would have done that, The POR15 last for years.
Outstanding, thanks for your time. The "after a year" perspective was really valuable!!
I used Chassis saver best product out there did the frame on my truck 3 years ago and no rain sleet or snow or road salt has done any damage to my frame AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++ product
💥 Absolutely giving you a 👍🏼 simply because you waited a whole year for the results. Awesome.
My choice Wurth Rust guard, more of an industrial product but it is about the best, German engineered and all that....and BTW, the Wurth will also double as resin for fiberglass, it has the needed release agent in it to bond the glass matting or weave......great stuff....just DO NOT GET ON SKIN.......it will not come off until your skin grows out, about 2 weeks.......Some rust encapsulators may need 2 coats if the rust is rough........and remember, Dont buy anything that says "rust converter"..........because one you got ferrous oxide, the chemical change of the steel has already taken place, thats why you need to "encapsulate it" to prevent any more air from continuing the ozadation process of the steel/iron
Joseph Klimchock thank you for the info! im doin my 88 mustang gt over now and was wonderin what to use in trouble spots.
@@kevinbryant6459 Hey good luck with the Stang, I bought new a 89 LX hatch 5.0 and sold after 2 years and got into Harleys for about 20 yrs.......and with any of the rust guard or POR..Paint over rust, wear a respirator and gloves and long sleeves if you can, this stuff is very tenacious in nature, and as I remember, higher humidity is better too, read the can, and if you want to reseal and use again, put plastic wrap over the open can, then tap lid on, of course get all the excess out of the can lid groove......other advice, pour out what you may use into plastic paint cup instead of dipping brush in and out of can because it can contaminate the product in the can........I buy it in quarts and use as needed, get loose rust off if you can, but dont make it smooth, this stuff needs a rough surface to adhere better, and if you need to do 2 coats, you gotta do it in I think less than 24 hrs, will say on the can.....
Joseph Klimchock hey thanx i really appreciate that. I choose the POR a few times before and it works decent I might try the chassis saver this round I hear good thing about that as well.
Great video, I know some have a disclaimer that it needed to be top coated to protect from UV rays, you hope your chassis never sees the sun XD maybe you can do annual updates, thanks for the effort.
Good test! Very surprised by the POR. I'd love to see how these compare to just using phosphoric acid to treating the rust and top coating with regular paint.
This is a dedicated test! Was wondering how testing was going to happen - wasn't expecting a real test, lol.
POR 15 needs a top coat. That's the only product I use now and holds up extremely well against our Canadian salted roads.
Ace rust stop is great stuff I use it a lot. I have had great luck with por but it has no UV protection so if it is exposed to the sun it need's a top coat of some kind.
Great video!
Am I the only one who thinks a green frame would be kinda awesome?
It would be a little reminder that you did the extra effort to protect your ride every time you see it...
Out of curiosity, have you tried painting other colors over the top of this stuff?
I painted a chev squarebody frame white with 3 coats of green pearl suspended in a binder coat last year. Looked pretty slick, but I doubt you’ll be able to see the “flip” of the pearl with the frame being under the (lowered) truck and no light hitting it. That green alone would look pretty slick!
ACE is definitely the best “bang for your buck.”
Ace....?????????
the chassis on my 1985 Toyots Hilux (Toyota Truck) is perfect and it's never been coated. Its been in the family for >20 years. The body has been slowly rusting for the last 15 years though. One solution I found was using rust converter, then anti rust paint, then covering it in tar! After 10 years of that the rust hadnt spread, as it never got wet. Unfortunately I cant really tar thr outside of the car, so more places spread into seams. Im now treating those spots as best I can to try to keep the vehicle going for 10 more years, garaged or covered as much as possible.
But I sure am glad to live in one if the dryest areas of the planet, that never sees snow or road salt! When I see those American Toyotas you can just tear apart with your hand it is shocking!
right on great video ---- i just bought 100 bucks worth of POR15 about an hour ago for my truck axles and frame fml ---- however after 1 year with a topcoat on my previously rusty running board brackets the POR15 still looks great :)
Good job my friend, but Ive used POR15 for the past 20 years and POR15 is not meant to be left in the sun, its a body under coating, you would have to have used their spray coating for exposed finishes. I have two fenders on my 61 I did 15 years ago and not a spec of rust with the POR15 or peeling, But for the price of the green suff it did a good job...
Good stuff. Thanks for taking the time.
Important to note also that on the can it says POR15 is not UV stable. Without following full instructions it’s to be expected that it would break down.
Thanks for the video though. I have not chosen any product for my car yet so this has given me many options to consider 👍
Sandblast metal, treat metal with OSPHO ( which is 45%Orthophosphoric Acid) or other approved metal conditioner, then apply two coats of 2 part epoxy primer. That’s the best solution. Nothing on earth will stick to a rusty surface long term. The rust will come back if it’s not mostly removed then chemically treated. Also, always apply a topcoat on a primed service. Primer is not meant to survive all weather conditions without a topcoat of paint.
Thanks so much bro! Great video glad you took time to do this
Never had issue with POR15. I find the worse the metal the better it works. It likes a really crusty rough surface and it is UV sensitive. Did an Airstream frame almost 10 yrs ago and it still looks fine. You just need to get grease off and the really big chunks of rust. Best way to prep new metal is leave it outside for a month or more and then it is perfect.
I am not real familiar with most of these products but seeing is believing. I have used POR and Eastwood and had very good long term results. I haven’t looked close at the Eastwood but POR says direct sun light will deteriorate the coating. I paint over the products I have used so that may be why it last. The POR also says it gets harder the more it is exposed to moisture. I have an old car frame that I painted with POR over 20 years ago and it has stayed in The elements the whole time a very small amount has pealed off but I am very impressed. I would imagine that painting over all of these would make a big difference and they may ALL be totally satisfactory. As one person said, you have done something that most people on you tube never do when comparing products and you have done a great job my friend. You now have one more subscriber. Thank you.
What would be a good type of paint to use over them?
ompenarnie you can prime and use any paint you want. POR makes tie coat that is an excellent primer. I have used a skim coat of filler over the tie coat with good luck. I can’t say how long this will last because it was on a frame of a truck that is driven regularly. It has held up for over two years. As with any product, follow instructions and do not miss any thing. Lot of people on you tube will cut corners and say it does not matter but none of them show any signs of being a chemical engineer or polymer scientist so I follow instructions because I am neither of these. I said all of that to say this, when I started using POR it was not recommended to use a metal etch so I have never used it before using the product. Your question let’s me know you are serious about your project so IMO I think it would be wise to use any product as instructed. I have used Eastwood a few times with no complaints. This video shows good results but not POR. I use 2 to 3 light coats. Do not discount this video because I have had great results with POR. I will check out the green inside frame for myself.
I wish you the best with whichever you chose and years of service.
👍🤙😃👍
@@kenswitzer4133 thank you Ken
Great video thanks brother, gotta head over to ACE now 😎
Great test, should have done it in Scotland, it rains all the time here.
What in of cars are there ?any Chevys or Fords ?
This is the best review of anti-corrosion agents. Thank you!
The POR really needs to be top coated to protect it from UV rays. UV breaks it down really quickly. I've tried some stuff called Extend that is supposed to covert rust. After priming and top coating, the rust has always come back. With POR it has not. Great video. I may get that Eastwood green stuff.
Yes, you really need to hit the samples with road salt..
Look at the rust bullet test videos
I have had good results with a product called Rust Destroyer. If sprayed on in the heat and sun baked to dry you need to use a grinder to remove it. Sandpaper hardly marks it.
One comment on the Por15, it says it is supposed to be painted over because it is not as UV stable, could be the reason it underperformed but who knows.
This is awesome. I was about to shell out a bunch of cash on POR for my WRX project. Guess I'm heading over to Ace instead.
POR15 don't do well in uv light it's meant for under the car and like engine bays. I just did my whole engine bay in it yesterday. It looks great. But I'll do the bed of the truck in the Ace
you get what you pay for and por 15 is expensive but long term results are far more impressive.
I painted a trailer with rustoleum red primer and a red topcoat. It's held up for 25 years sitting outside in the sun and rain. Only degradation is that the red topcoat has faded.
I believe all of these products would be greatly benefited by a good primer and topcoat. Still, a good test.
looks like we spray some cleaner on the rusted area after using a wire brush. Then hit with ACE and then as Cosmoline based spray can coating such as Crown.
need to remove the paint to see how it looks under the paint. if you can brush it up easy means thats rusting under the coat.
Funny how the most famous and most highly acclaimed product - POR15 - always seems to come out last in such tests. In another video, the reviewer pressure washed the different metal pieces and the POR-15 peeled right off in sheets. That's why we all owe reviewers like GODSPEED garage a BIG THANK YOU for showing us the real world results versus the marketing HYPE.
I was under the impression that POR 15 had to be protected, i.e. paint coated once dry. Could that be the reason it failed? I have been using it for about 6 years, in that many vehicles,. Thank you for the test. I do think I like the (green) Internal Frame Coating. and the Rust Stop from Ace, as indicated by you.
you're probably right... from what I've read, it doesn't HAVE to be covered, but people do because it oxidizes and fades. plus, none of the other paints need to be top coated... have you had any issues with POR 15? I was really hoping it was going to work. thanks again for watching!
@@GODSPEEDGarage The truth is that I have not had any issues with POR15, but I have always used it for interiors, except once, on the inside of a rear bumper on a 1968 GMC. I do not have access to the literature right now, but I recall, or I think I do recall, that the product should not be left expose (to the sun?). Granted, I always put 2 coats to make sure the bare or rusted metal is 100% covered. Thank you for the product testing you do. Next opportunity I have, I will try the Internal Frame, and the Rust Stop, for interior & exterior pieces, respectively.
@@guillermonieri4203 yeah that's what I read as well... but I wanted to really put them all to the test in extreme environment: sun, rain, snow... not to mention the SEVERELY rusted 90 year old metal! the instructions on the POR 15 also said "for best results media blast", but... obviously I didn't do that... I wanted to see how well they all covered rust... in this case EXTREME rust
I remember reading that por 15 only does well when under a vehicle or not in direct sunlight I’m pretty sure this is in their website. I think this is the reason why it failed and didn’t hold up.
Many products won't hold up to long term exposure to UV light, unless it has UV protection built into it. I know for sure that POR-15 isn't rated for it, they recommend a topcoat for UV protection. Obviously on something like a frame, floor pans, etc. it'd be fine. You really have to get that mil thickness up on products like that.
A better test would be to do this in the rust belt. The PNW isn't as harsh as NY or PA
you're not kidding! Test it in Chicago or Minneapolis too.
Everyone keeps saying POR 15 is not UV resistant. From what I can tell, he read the instructions on the cans and followed them to the letter (I about laughed when they had him soaking metal for the POR 15. Imagine doing all that for your frame?).
As I see it, the defenders of POR 15 have two potential problems: (1) they didn't inform that it needed to be top-coated; (2) on top of all the financial and prep hoops you have to jump through for POR 15, you *still* have to top coat it for UV protection.
Edit: someone noted that POR 15 says you have to top-coat it in its instructions. Fair enough.
Thanks for the review. I have bought some other rust converter from Lowes that works fine. However, I am getting ready for some serious frame restoration and needed this kind of info. I am now confirmed in my intentions to use the Eastwood inner frame spray (with their 360 degree nozzle), but there is no way I am going to drop a ton of cash and prep on POR 15.
I do wish you had included something like Rustoleum (very common brand for this kind of thing).
Thanks again for a great video!
I am looking to an alternative to por-15 myself. It doesn't dry really nice even on good metal. Sections of a peel right off after about a year or so. I'm not sure if anything really stops rust permanently like they say. I was disappointed in por-15 myself because they say it is indestructible but it peels pretty easily and it definitely can crack and chip off. I switched over from chassis saver. I'm looking into trying Eastwood next. I like that you can get it in a can as well. For those hard-to-reach areas where the brush can't really get into.
I've used the Rustoleum Rust Reformer on an AG mower as the base coat over a lot of rusted metal, then top coated with an enamel paint to match my tractor. 4 years later, no bleed through or additional rust bubbles. I would say it works pretty good, and wont hesitate to use it again. I bought a quart of POR 15 for a manure spreader, along with the top coat paint, and will give it a test in that. If anything, a manure spreader takes more punishment than anything salt sprayed in the winter. Poop eats through just about anything.
I would like to see what would happen if the rusty test metal was bolted, where there was no coating, to a daily driver.
Why did we not do good ol' Rustolium? This stuff has been an industry standard since the 1920s. It can even be tuned up with automotive enamel paint hardener catalyst for even better performance. Try it, you'll like it
PS: Por 15 is very finicky, does not like clean bare metal, and if not applied strictly by the book is failure prone. I would never recommend it except for an old swing set or an oil rig....
....RooDog....
This a great video Sir. I'll be interested to see what they do in another year. I am stripped down with my Jeep frame now. '87 never driven in winter but it has been outside most of it. No real rust for the NE although a lot of surface underneath. I'm using Eastwood in the frame. Not sure outside yet.
I want to know about the new Eastwood Platinum they are pushing. It is suppose to be the new best stuff?
I've been curious about that too... it's a bit more on the expensive side, but I've had good experiences with other Eastwood paints, so it might be worth trying. thanks for watching!
The condensation drip pan on my home AC central air unit had flaky rust that clogged the drain hole. I removed the flakes and coated it with a rust encapsulator that I bought at the local hardware store (I don't even remember the name of the product). It's now been over 30 years with no additional leaks.
On another note, here's an additional vote for red oxide primer. Regular primer will not seal metal surfaces.
Thanks for the tip on the home AC. I have been fighting something similar and for some reason it never occurred to me to deploy your solution. Thanks for taking the time to write about it!
Kudos to you for spending a lot of money to find the best encapsulator! What's up with all the prep for POR? Might as well sandblast and powder coat!
Just trying to be fool proof. But deep down the same steps should be applied with all of them. Degreasing, cleaning away the loose flaky rust, neutralise the rest of the rust with phosphoric acid and paint over when dry. Anything less and you risk the rust encapsulator becoming loose and peeling off in chunks.
I can’t speak to any of the others, but the chassis saver is not uv resistant unless you add magnets uc stabilizer. I have had mine on my crawler for years now and I am very pleased with it. Regardless, good video.
Fantastic. I will try to be back next January!
Thank you and greetings from Portugal.
I really like using the ace rust stop paint I’ve always had good luck with it, and por15 seems like a good product too
POR15 is generally considered the ultimate frame coating system and certainly the most expensive, but I'm surprised how poorly it did here.
@@chrisgraham2904 POR15 does have one Achilles heel - it must have a top coat if it is going to be in direct sunlight, U.V. light breaks it down without a top coat.
@@Thomas63r2 Yes, POR15 is a more complicated 3-step process, so it's more time consuming and more expensive. I would use POR15 if I had a bare frame sitting on the floor, with the body or bed removed for a true restoration. I don't think it has added value when the frame and body are intact and not everything can be reached for treatment.
Great video surprised about the results looked at all the products expect Ace rust stop for what I need for interior under the carpet in my Jeep Wrangler I'm going to give it a try Again great long term test 👍👍
Just so you know por 15 has to be top coated as uv Ray's destroy por 15 so you cannot expose to sunlight with a top coating. Says it right on can.
That's what I was going to ask him...
If there is no uv exposure does it need a top coat?
Kenneth Amick POR clearly failed. The others could use a top coat, as well, but they held up really well. 🤷🏼♀️
@@iamher6422 I confirmed with por 15. Por15 will discolor, but it will not be affected mechanically. This was a good test.
Doesn't make POR15 any less shit at what it's supposed to do though.
Great video but you took the time to read the POR15 instructions and STILL shook it! Lol...after watching a few vids on rust treatments, I’ve seen this happen every time with POR15..oh well. Thanks for the video!
Two issues: POR 15 specifically says do NOT shake, stir, also, not for exposure to sunlight w/o a sun resistant paint on top.
Aaannnd thats why it sucks
Alex Morales raptor owners group
I have had great success (several years, no issue) with POR15 when combined with a topcoat paint (per instructions). This entire review is suspect given the fact that only “some” of the instructions were followed. I would LOVE to see another attempt. Wonder if the other brands’ instruct users to paint with topcoat?
I just used por on my 92 jeep yj frame. I hope it holds up better than that. I had heard so many good things about it.
Hey..thanks for the demo..was really interesting and to think expensive is NOT better...thanks again
None of these work unless you remove the rust. I also used the internal frame coating by Eastwood which is designed to be the exception. Once you coat the inside of the frame and the paint cures, use Cosmoline on the inside of your frame. Eastwood makes 3 levels of rust encapsulator. I use the mid grade and it words fantastic if you apply it correctly. After sanding you must wipe it down with lacquer thinner or a surface prep product to remove residues such as rust, grease, dirt, etc. The paint won't stick to heavy corrosion or grime. Also get yourself the Eastwood 2 inch disc surface prep tool and a small air powered belt sander for the tight spots. Their surface prep tool really does the job and the belt sander gets the tight spots. Never do a build without first restoring the underbody. If you don't within a short time your work and your investment will be lost.
Awesome video it thrills me that you took the time to do this great job!!!!!
Thanks for all the hard work
Another video I saw had the same bad results with por15. Maybe the UV rays as previously mentioned.
por15 has to be top coated if exposed to light. That said when I used it, it wasn't thin at all. It was quite thick and gloopy. Not sure why it was so thin.
Great Video. Wish I would have seen this before using POR15. I redid the portion of my 14 F150 just under the running boards. I stripped it down to bare metal, used the screen bondo for the holes. POR'd the entire surface 2 times (per directions). 2 coats of primer, 3 coats of finish and 4 clear. within 2 months rust began to bleed thru. I had it in a garage for 2 weeks during the process. Very disappointed in the Por product. Have to start over with the Eastwood maybe??
Por needs rust to work you cant strip the rust off. I think the directions even say that. Also you have to topcoat any part thats gonna be in sunlight it’s extremely uv sensitive and breaks down in the sun. Treated my truck frame with it 3 years ago still no rust and i live in the rust belt
Thank you for doing this test, I know it would have cost you a lot of money and time.
Rust Bullet is the best I think. It is UV resistant too.
Have you heard about KBS product? Might be a good one to test in a part 2 if you plan to do a part two.
Thank you for the real effort you put into this! A full one year test... awesome!
I really considered por15... but after this video... i think i'll save my money.
Mastercoat is really good
Pot 15 is light sensitive. You have to top coat it
There's an easier and faster way to test this... just spray with salt water and diluted hydrogen peroxide until one starts failing and keep going until the last one fails. Whatever fails last, that's the only thing you should use on your car.
I think he was trying to reproduce the earth's atmospheric conditions that our vehicles are subject to over time--not the corrosive conditions of Venus in fast motion.
In other words, a test that you propose really serves to show which product holds up to a daily unrelenting harsh conditions that don't exist. I am more interested in real world, real time analysis. Apples to apples.
@@thegoodearth7 Salt and Oxygen are very Earthly. Either way, the the best bet would be to put the part back on the car and drive it in regular road conditions through dirt, gravel, snow, road salt and high speeds the way you'd expect. Those conditions would more realistically display earths atmospheric conditions for cars. That metal part probably came from an area on the car that's not exposed to any UV, which those products don't appear to stand up to very well since they weren't designed for that.
This video is a prime example of why you have to do your own testing and research. Ill just leave it at that
real world coating test? nice. was thinking of this for my 62 Nova. that Eastwood internal frame coating looks like the champ. if you use it on the underside and wheel well you can just shoot over it with black paint and Bam! aesthetic.
Nova didnt come till 66 chevy 2 i think
@@timmybohannon93 Auto Nazi!
Tried Rust encapsulator on my Tacoma frame. Needle scaled and chip hammered frame first. After one year black paint was gone, rust was there. Also used internal frame coating, rust is showing through. I now went back over frame with needle scaler and chipping hammer again and applied POR15. Ill look at that in one year.
So why you thing it will be better this time? Rust is still behind. You bought truck with boxed frame and it is all, game over. Yet thanks for testing internal frame coating.
ace rust stop = #1
The rust tests I see on RUclips all lack one important scientific parameter: the actuall thickness of the coating is not measured! How do we know if the product has actually been coated to the prescribed thickness? Or, how do we know if one of the products tested is actually exceeding the recommended thickness? Such factors give one product an advantage over another in the test. That variable must be eliminated! What is required is a paint thickness gauge, and the most basic kind looks like a ball-point pen, containing a magnet and spring. The magnet attaches itself to the surface, and is connected within the pen by a spring; as you pull the pen away from the painted surface, you read the thickness on the scale of the extended internal part, at the point where the magnet looses contact. The thicker the coating over the steel, the weaker the hold the magnet has on the surface. I have one called the "Auto-Lak-Test".
Maybe hit it with a wire brush to see if they flake off. it would be good to know how well they penetrate the rust
POR 15 is not to be exposed to sunlight without being topcoated. That is why you got the results that you did.
thanks for watching and thanks for the input! I really do appreciate it... however, with all due respect, that's actually not true - according to POR-15, if it's exposed to sun, "protection will remain, but the sun will change its appearance COSMETICALLY." If you'd like further testing check out my video "SHAKEN or STIRRED - MYTHBUSTING POR-15" here: ruclips.net/video/Pvp8G6wyqzU/видео.html
I used some POR 15 stuff back in the 90s on my floorboards and had to grind off the drips underneath, as it was rock hard. Don't recall if it was rust preventative or not. Guessing now maybe not...
Also used their gas tank cleaner and sealer. Had great results with that too.
Kilz Rust Cap is no longer available as they have stopped making it. Krylon who makes the Ace Rust Stop product has a new product called Fusion All in One that also encapsulates rust.