Cool! I had no idea that the concrete/metal prep was phosphoric acid. I was buying small quart bottles of ospho for probably three times the price. Cheers
Only reason I found out is cuz I couldn't find us for a locally so I had to do some research but yeah it's the same shit different bottle thanks for watching buddy
Good stuff that Klean Strip is. Lot cheaper than the SEM or other major paint shop brand equivalent. At $15 for half a galon, it can't be beat. Currently doing a 914 restomod and I'm using it extensively even inside the frame. You can even leave it on clean metal and it will protect it for a few weeks. remove the heavy white residue as much as you can before paint. Talked to some paint expert and ask him if it was ok to paint over some of the white residue that couldn't be reach and he said is Ok. Actually, the white stuff and iron phosphate is a pretty good surface to paint on as long as the heavy or loose scale is removed and a good primer/sealer is used. good luck with your project!
I have the Klean strip acid as well. But I needed 75% phosphoric for Electropolishing aluminum. I paid $54 for a gallon including shipping! Klean strip is like 25% acid so in theory, I’m able to make 3 gallons for $54! But like I was saying I have more than one use for phosphoric acid.
Somewhat thorough explanation of the process of needing to cleam off the metal prep solution, before applying paint. However, I'm not sure if I can clean the metal prep solution off with soap and water prior to painting. I'm painting a Rusty wrought iron steel fence.
Thanks for telling us to clean it off. I have used it on many things but the Ospho that I used said to paint over it. I last used it on an iron porch railing and most of the paint flaked off. I have plenty of acetone and will use it from now on. Tha phosphoric acid works great.
Kimberly-Clarke, WypAll L-40 , These are paper towels that lint free, sold at paint supply stores and somewhat tough. Found a good price on Amazon & got a case. Try using isopropyl alcohol to wipe clean with dry air if any, but you are right about a W&G remover because Klean-Strip make some as well. It comes down to what you are spraying next as epoxy primers are DTM with a mild acid includes for etching while others are not DTM (Direct To Metal) and Ospho and certain others metal cleaners contain phosphorus acid. It really comes down to the technical data sheet as what to do. Spraying epoxy will seal the metal like a plastic wrap, keeping moisture out. If body filler is require, then follow the “TDS” again. 50% if the restoration crowd would sand a dent with 80 grit, apply & sand filler as long as it feathers nicely! Filler is porous as well, unless Dynatron fiberglass filler, used over weld patches to seal. They will mix a small amount then re-spray the epoxy in just that area. Some allow for up to 10% urethane quality reducer of correct shop temp, added to the epoxy to make it flow and layout nice. This can be done as a sealer, once your body work is done, just before base coat & clear or just a single stage paint. Once again, ask the paint supplier for recommendations and purchase the product that allows it to work. Lord know, you only want to do this once! Best of luck!
@@MadStiles I forgot the paper towels are “WyAlls L-40 by Kimberly-clark! Thanks for quick response. I couldn’t think of the name as they are clean & boxed….somewhere! Have a good one!
You need to NEUTRALIZE the phosphoric acid before paint or it may come back to bite you. Sanding, wax and grease remover, pre, etc does not neutralize. Follow the instructions, it's usually a water wash after wet acid (not dry). Just trying to help.
@@MadStiles if you don't neutralize you run serious risk of paint delamination. Please Google the testing SPI has done on exactly this issue. Water is the recommended neutralizer. Wiping it off with another liquid doesn't address the chemistry issue. I can't argue with success you've been having, I'm just presenting the testing done by SPI, one of the most common epoxy paint companies in restoration.
@@mback12000 This is completely false. Perhaps you're thinking of Muriatic acid, which I would be in full agreement that it needs to be neutralized on metal, which can be done with baking soda NOT just water. But, phosphoric acid converts rust to iron oxide, which is a paintable substrate. Not even sure who 'SPI' is, I'm just going on the 25 years of auto body experience I have acquired. Ah, experience. The one thing Google can't give ya.
@@JesseAkersKnives SPI = Southern Polyurethane, one of the most common epoxies used in high end restoration work. Must've missed that in your 25 years.
So after I sprayed on the rust and let it sit and set for 24 hours Can I just paint over it?? Directly???? Or spray it down with break cleaner and wipe it down ????? Plz help
I've been using this on and off for years as well. But do you have any tips on preventing the salts that form sometimes when you use it? That stuff gets annoying to wire brush off of things. I mostly use it for welding/fabrication applications so LOTS of rusty metal in this Florida humidity.
Just did my tank and it removed all the surface rust, converted some to black oxide and left a scaly white coat over the heavier stuff. Aftewards, I used coarse crushed glass (the stuff used for sandblasting or make your own) and tumbled it inside the gas on a rotating jig i fabricated with 2x4 and an old wiper motor. Rinsed really good with water and repeated the process until the tank was spotless inside. Treated it with some tank sealer from Eastwood (eastwood.com) too so it'll never come back. POR15 also makes a good tank sealer epoxy. Good luck!
A strip of paper towel can be placed over the rust and soaked. The paper towel keeps the liquid on the surface and it stays wet longer.
Thanks buddy
Been using it for years and never had rust come up under the paint! Great stuff! Thanks Jim!!!!!!!!
Awesome thanks buddy!
I clean it with a grease and wax remover or acetone
Cool! I had no idea that the concrete/metal prep was phosphoric acid. I was buying small quart bottles of ospho for probably three times the price. Cheers
Only reason I found out is cuz I couldn't find us for a locally so I had to do some research but yeah it's the same shit different bottle thanks for watching buddy
Good stuff that Klean Strip is. Lot cheaper than the SEM or other major paint shop brand equivalent. At $15 for half a galon, it can't be beat. Currently doing a 914 restomod and I'm using it extensively even inside the frame. You can even leave it on clean metal and it will protect it for a few weeks. remove the heavy white residue as much as you can before paint. Talked to some paint expert and ask him if it was ok to paint over some of the white residue that couldn't be reach and he said is Ok. Actually, the white stuff and iron phosphate is a pretty good surface to paint on as long as the heavy or loose scale is removed and a good primer/sealer is used. good luck with your project!
I have the Klean strip acid as well. But I needed 75% phosphoric for Electropolishing aluminum. I paid $54 for a gallon including shipping! Klean strip is like 25% acid so in theory, I’m able to make 3 gallons for $54! But like I was saying I have more than one use for phosphoric acid.
Every one of my multi year projects started as "only a few months projects" 😅 don't judge me
Somewhat thorough explanation of the process of needing to cleam off the metal prep solution, before applying paint.
However, I'm not sure if I can clean the metal prep solution off with soap and water prior to painting.
I'm painting a Rusty wrought iron steel fence.
Thanks for telling us to clean it off. I have used it on many things but the Ospho that I used said to paint over it. I last used it on an iron porch railing and most of the paint flaked off. I have plenty of acetone and will use it from now on. Tha phosphoric acid works great.
Makin progress. That's all that counts. Semper Fi Marine ! Thumbs Up
Thanks for watching!
Kimberly-Clarke, WypAll L-40 , These are paper towels that lint free, sold at paint supply stores and somewhat tough. Found a good price on Amazon & got a case. Try using isopropyl alcohol to wipe clean with dry air if any, but you are right about a W&G remover because Klean-Strip make some as well. It comes down to what you are spraying next as epoxy primers are DTM with a mild acid includes for etching while others are not DTM (Direct To Metal) and Ospho and certain others metal cleaners contain phosphorus acid. It really comes down to the technical data sheet as what to do. Spraying epoxy will seal the metal like a plastic wrap, keeping moisture out. If body filler is require, then follow the “TDS” again. 50% if the restoration crowd would sand a dent with 80 grit, apply & sand filler as long as it feathers nicely! Filler is porous as well, unless Dynatron fiberglass filler, used over weld patches to seal. They will mix a small amount then re-spray the epoxy in just that area. Some allow for up to 10% urethane quality reducer of correct shop temp, added to the epoxy to make it flow and layout nice. This can be done as a sealer, once your body work is done, just before base coat & clear or just a single stage paint. Once again, ask the paint supplier for recommendations and purchase the product that allows it to work. Lord know, you only want to do this once! Best of luck!
Wow thanks for all of the great info!! Thank you for watching!
@@MadStiles I forgot the paper towels are “WyAlls L-40 by Kimberly-clark!
Thanks for quick response. I couldn’t think of the name as they are clean & boxed….somewhere! Have a good one!
That's the same stuff I use!! Rust is the enemy!!☺
Works great!
You need to NEUTRALIZE the phosphoric acid before paint or it may come back to bite you. Sanding, wax and grease remover, pre, etc does not neutralize. Follow the instructions, it's usually a water wash after wet acid (not dry). Just trying to help.
Once you neutralize it with water the rust comes back instantly
I use greese and wax remover
@@MadStiles if you don't neutralize you run serious risk of paint delamination. Please Google the testing SPI has done on exactly this issue. Water is the recommended neutralizer. Wiping it off with another liquid doesn't address the chemistry issue. I can't argue with success you've been having, I'm just presenting the testing done by SPI, one of the most common epoxy paint companies in restoration.
@@mback12000 This is completely false. Perhaps you're thinking of Muriatic acid, which I would be in full agreement that it needs to be neutralized on metal, which can be done with baking soda NOT just water. But, phosphoric acid converts rust to iron oxide, which is a paintable substrate. Not even sure who 'SPI' is, I'm just going on the 25 years of auto body experience I have acquired. Ah, experience. The one thing Google can't give ya.
@@JesseAkersKnives SPI = Southern Polyurethane, one of the most common epoxies used in high end restoration work. Must've missed that in your 25 years.
Nice tip, thank you! New subscriber. This is the kind of advice that's going to help a lot with my Bug restoration.
Good luck buddy!
That is awesome! I'm going to use it right now!
Works great! Thanks for watching!
tannic acid also does wonders
Thanks
Great video , thank you for this .... do we have to clean / remove phosphorus with a acetone or can we clean it with a towel and paint it ?
I cleaned it with like a panel prep I got from Eastwood
You got a like from me for the tatoo line.
Thanks buddy!!
vicious volksy
If you use this klean-strip metal prep it has to be neutralized with soap and water or it will bite your butt
I've been told this before, and I recommend people be safe, but I've never had an issue.
So after I sprayed on the rust and let it sit and set for 24 hours
Can I just paint over it?? Directly????
Or spray it down with
break cleaner and wipe it down ?????
Plz help
I wipe it with acetone
Ive been using it for over 20 years
Thanks for watching!
Tell people to be very careful using it. It can be nasty stuff.
They put this in our food. Check your ranch salad dressing.
Holy! I didn't know that!
I've been using this on and off for years as well. But do you have any tips on preventing the salts that form sometimes when you use it? That stuff gets annoying to wire brush off of things. I mostly use it for welding/fabrication applications so LOTS of rusty metal in this Florida humidity.
If you clean it off as soon as it turns black while it's still wet it then you don't have the problem with it getting that crusty stuff on it
@@MadStiles that makes sense. The white crustiest must be iron phosphate
using some right now to de rust a gas tank. also rust is iron oxide
Awesome, thanks buddy!
you know phosphoric acid is toxic right? You may at least think of using rubber gloves and not touch your face with them
Long term it can cause issues but I don't use it often
Ferrous oxide into ferrous phosphate
👍👍🌝
Does this work for cleaning out gas tanks. I got a motorcycle tank I have to clean
I have not tried it but I'd Google it
Just did my tank and it removed all the surface rust, converted some to black oxide and left a scaly white coat over the heavier stuff. Aftewards, I used coarse crushed glass (the stuff used for sandblasting or make your own) and tumbled it inside the gas on a rotating jig i fabricated with 2x4 and an old wiper motor. Rinsed really good with water and repeated the process until the tank was spotless inside. Treated it with some tank sealer from Eastwood (eastwood.com) too so it'll never come back. POR15 also makes a good tank sealer epoxy. Good luck!