Just an FYI for everyone...I have this same ski,the factory manual says to clamp the output hose,pour a quart of antifreeze into the intake hose until it comes out the exhaust and your good to go,seems much simpler than this, although I'm sure both ways work.been doing it the factory way for 21 years now.
Question, the manual talks about also clamping two other areas (on a 2005 GTI seadoo which I think has the same engine as this). the first is the engine drain hose which makes sense. The second is the injection hose going to the tuned pipe. Why does that need to be clamped? or do you do that? I've followed the instructions in this video so am I good to go, or should I also clamp off these three pipes and pour antifreeze in the coolant intake as per the manual?
@@KristopherDreger I have been clamping just the one hose on mine,have done this for the 21 years I have owned them,and I live in northern Michigan.gets extremely cold,never a Problem
Thanks, great video. I have a 1998 GTS Seadoo I bought new. I’ve always used compressed air to winterize. What is the red access fitting for on the head output or water input hose? Thanks Dennis North of Toronto Ontario Canada 🇨🇦🇨🇦
I saw this is 7 years old but it’s the most helpful video I’ve found. I had a couple questions. How do you open the air box? Mine is the same as yours in the video but I don’t know how it opens. And where do you find engine fog?
Awesome video, thanks so much. One question: is there a reason you put the antifreeze in that port versus just use the "t" port on the other hose? I know it's been a while since you posted this but thought I'd ask anyways.
When I originally made the video, it was hard for me to see the arrows through the camera. Just follow the directional arrows on your unit so you know which line to disconnect. The red quick connect was placed by my local dealer and was never used by me during the winterizing process.
excellent video .. so if I want to run my sea doo on the trailer I can just hook up a garden hose to the in line hose. ? what's that T for ? on the output
Question on identifying the input and output cooling flow lines. At 1:45, you say the one at the top of the video image is the input flow, and you show how you can follow it to the external inlet. At 2:05, you say the one at the bottom of the video image is where the water gets ejected. But, at 2:45, you seem to contradict yourself and say the opposite. This is based on the direction of the arrows on the engine. You say the one at the top of video image is the outflow and the one at bottom is the inflow. I assume the latter is correct, but I was under the assumption that the one connected to the external inlet would be the inflow, but does not seem to be the case for this. Can you clarify?
Yep, he said it wrong. You can flush that way but if he had the connector for the red fitting on the other side you can do it that way, just clamp the hose leading out of the ski .
I was the same way Ron very confused. I would think the line coming from the inlet fitting that pumps the water to the head would be the correct one. But right after he points at that line is switches over to the other side and does the hook up there. I do marine repair but have not done any ski repairs so I know nothing about this . But other than that his video is very good its what I needed to know
Roger Hockemier correct, I misspoke originally. It was hard to see the arrows through my phone camera when I originally made the video. You want to put your hose on the intake line, not the discharge line.
Over time oil can leak through the oil pump building up excess in the crank case. First time starting after a long time may see what you are describing.
What is the nipple on the out hose for?? I have one of the same sea doos,,and thought it was for intake water,as I have a adapter that plugs onto that nipple and attaches to a garden hose? Im confused now.
re watched,,in beginning you said nipple side was intake,,,then minutes later you said the other way?? I want to run mine out of water?? which side do I hook hose to after I start it?? lol
Not sure if you're asking about draining an oilpan or referencing the fogging oil, but it's a 2 smoke, so there is no oil to drain. Not trying to talk to you like you're dumb, just not sure if you're thinking it's a 4 stroke. The fogging oil gets run through (without spark) to keep the inside of the motor lubed and uncorroded over the winter, because moisture is constantly in there, somewhere. So you can either put it in the filter like he did, or most of us pull the plugs, spray a "2 mississippi" count directly into each cylinder (it's an aerosol can), and then let the starter motor crank it around into the engine for about 10 seconds. This lubes up the works and defeats lingering moisture and corrosion while it sits for months without fresh premix going through it. Don't worry about getting it out when you "de-winterize", it will burn itself out on your first run next spring/summer. Just run it nice and easy for a few minutes before letting it rip on it's maiden run for the year. The Antifreeze (Ethylene Glycol) also does the same for the cooling jacket of the motor, the intake, and the exhaust, just like the radiator of your car. I'm usually too lazy to do this, but he's absolutely right to do this because it displaces normal, corrosion causing water from the works to preserve all the parts that normally breathe in river water while you ride. If you've done a head gasket on these (ridiculously easy even if you can't change a Bicycle tire), then you will see how gross the inside of the cooling jacket of the engine gets from having actual, no BS river and ocean water in it, as well as sand and other crap. It's downright alarming once you see it for yourself and pick shreds of seaweed out of the inside of your engine block. And if you let rust eat into your exhaust because you didn't get all the water out, you will get the most common reason jet skis run on dry land but don't run when you put them in the water when shopping for one on Craigslist: The Water Box (which is your tailpipe) is blown. From bad maintenance and the explosive pressure of 2 stroke exhaust firing into it. The reason it's called a water box rather than a tailpipe, is because water is supposed to be in part of the exhaust, so, of course, you gotta get it out when stored for long periods. PWC's are a plumbing nightmare. Also, I don't know how much 2 Stroke PWC experience some of you reading this may have, but some side notes from what I've learned the hard way: 1. Make sure to remove your battery and bring it inside for the winter, keep it off the cold concrete, and trickle charge it (on low amps) every month or so. Your contacts will thank you, and so will your starter and wallet. PWC batteries are more spendy than the average motorcycle battery, and I've mistreated many a spendy YB16CL-B battery to my everlasting expense. 2. Just change the spark plugs next spring. Just do it. Every year, like clockwork. And glob some dielectric grease on the top when you put them in. Hands down the #1 reason why some people waste money replacing a perfectly good CDI because they get no spark on a cylinder. Plug issues. And always have a spare plugs, a wrench, and some electro grease handy. Just trust me, HAVE SPARE PLUGS, YO. The day will come when you're glad you did. Oh, it will come. 3. Find Non-Ethanol race gas to fill your tank with stabilizer for the winter. If you ride all the time, then fine, deal with normal pump gas if have to. But for sitting for long periods, you need the stabilizer AND the non ethanol gas to get long term storage without the gas going kaput and causing heart ache. 4. Just a minor tip, but your engine might be fussy and a hard starter from sitting for 6 months. So the tip is to start it for 20 seconds (much longer and you sieze up the motor, remember it cools itself with the water you're riding in) on the trailer before backing down the ramp so you can troubleshoot, and when you're at the bottom of the boat ramp but JUST before you dip it into the water (literally a few seconds), start the motor and let it run so it starts without a tailpipe full of water on it's first run of the day. It may not like the xtra compression from the waterbox being full of H2o once it's in the aqua. This simply helps you avoid that "bad day" where it ran fine on the trailer, but it didn't want to start when sitting in the river. And then you're bummed out and frustrated, and your kids think you're bad with motorized things. Edit, just other things noone ever tells you when you're a newbie 2 Stroke ski owner: 5. Run your motor for about 10-15 seconds again once you get home from a day's riding. There's still water in your exhaust. Guaranteed. Your neighbors may not like you, but your ski will. 6. If your 2 stroke ski flips upside down in the water for too long because Aunt Mildred is really bad at riding and doesn't know to right your Ski IMMEDIATELY, and it won't start back up on the water, don't keep cranking it. You've been Hydro-Locked. Water got all the way up into the cylinders. Unlike air, water doesn't compress. That starter cranking is going to cause the connecting rods to bend, and you're looking at an engine rebuild. Either IMMEDIATELY take it to the shop to get it pumped out if you're the nervous type with deep pockets, or pull it out of the water, remove the spark plugs (it's the only place for the water to come out of the top of the cylinders), and start cranking the engine uncovered. Water will be shoot out like Old Faithful from both the spark plug holes, the pisser, and the back. Crank it good and long, until you see no more water coming out the top. At this point either be confident that you cleaned your existing plugs, or slap a fresh set in. Drop it back into the water, and you will find it probably runs again. Do NOT let it sit with water in the cylinders for even a day if you can help it. It can survive and operate with a little moisture remaining (it will burn out the droplets left behind), but not a whole cylinder full. This happens to at least one of my skis every year because...well, family isn't people you choose, they're people you're stuck with. And sometimes they be DUMB. Obviously, this trick isn't for 4 strokes. You're going to the shop. Bring your credit card. A hydrolocked 4 stroke is a much, much bigger problem. We're talking water in the oil sump (because these have one), scorched valves, scored engine parts, bent rods, and a broken heart if you try to start it after water got in there. 7. Use real PWC 2 stroke oil. Non-ester blend, non-ash racing grade stuff. Yes, it's more expensive. Generic lawn mower oil might work on a Honda 5 hp outboard, but your ski isn't one. You will know you're using cheap gas and cheap oil when it starts farting and spitting, or you start having MUCH more expensive problems. I've trusted labels like Amsoil Interceptor and Yamaha Yamalube Waverunner Performance oil to give me lots of hours on my ancient 2 smoke motors. Get cheap with gas, oil, plugs, and battery, and you get a Bummer Day where your ski sits on the trailer. Mocking you. 8. Change your reeds (unless you have rotary valves). Every few years is a good idea. Sometimes you don't have bad carbs, you have bad reeds. A simple, flimsy piece of material that is pretty damn important and that gets ignored as the reason your old 2 stroke ski might be running like crap. Don't be intimidated about doing it yourself, taking the intake manifold and carb off to get to the reed cage is usually alot easier than it looks, and is only a couple of bolts 9. Your motor is running great, your ski is going slow. Going down the list from most likely and easiest to fix to worst: a. You've got crap in your intake. You can usually get this out by hand, reaching under the ski (not running of course) and pulling it out. Don't keep blipping the gas. Just jump in and clear it out. b. You've got crap around your impeller. You MIGHT get this out by hand, but you better go to shore. If desperate, a coat hanger and knife is surprisingly handy c. Your wear ring (if you have one) is worn down. Too much water is getting around the impeller to make as much "jet" action to push you through. You CAN do this yourself, but it's involved. It's nothing more than a plastic ring designed to be really close to the prop and keep the water tight to it rather than running around it. And, as the name says, it wears down over time like a bushing. Alot of old kawasaki and yamaha skis do not have one at all, so you're probably looking at the next item.... d. Your impeller is tore up or has a big, hairy rock jammed permanently in it. Same physics as above. But more expensive to replace and put in, and involves things like pump oil, etc etc. However, it's an excuse to put in a badass Solas or Riva progressive pitch impeller, which can take a turd ski and turn it into a totally different animal. So can something as simple as a new handlebar setup e. Your impeller shaft is stripped. This is what happens when you keep blipping the gas with a jammed up pump. In laymens terms, you're stripping out the one and only transaxle that exists on your ski. On many skis, replacing this means unbolting the engine and moving it temporarily to put in the new shaft. f. Unlikely, but you might have a Temp Sensor putting you into Limp Home mode. It thinks you're roasting the engine, and dials it down whether you want it to or not. Push it too much, and it's gonna start shutting off the motor. Normally, you can run your ski and put your hand on the engine, and it's only Warm. Not dangerously hot. If it is only warm, and it keeps cutting power, then you probably have a messed up sensor or even the brain box isn't reading the sensor right. This can be a rabbit hole. If the engine actually IS too hot to touch when running, and it's doing this, you may have any one of the above problems causing the engine to work super hard and hot to push you through the water, and you should get A-E checked out.
@@WindFireAllThatKindOfThing omg i actually finished reading your comment lol. Well put👍. Also its going to be a a big help for me since i just got me a 97 bombardier gts. I gonna screen shot your comment for later use. Thanks a bunch. Oh you have sated you trust the amsoil intersetor and yamaha lube correct? I need help on what oil i should use and what/where or gas station with the racinggas i can get for this jetski.
Agree,I always prestart my skis before heading to the lake,let them run about 30 seconds without any water hooked up.have owned them 21 years,no problem with the impeller
why didnt you show using the fogging stuff where do you spray it and you have to have the ski running? come on guy!!! you left have of how to do it out of the video!! 👎👎👎👎👎👎👎
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for actually showing a helpful winterizing video for an older Sea-Doo that makes sense. I love you.
I really appreciate this video. We have the same ski, therefore made it very easy. Thank you!
Saved this video thanks bud I got a 95 sea doo gts first year having a jet ski and it’s the exact same procedure as this video
Just an FYI for everyone...I have this same ski,the factory manual says to clamp the output hose,pour a quart of antifreeze into the intake hose until it comes out the exhaust and your good to go,seems much simpler than this, although I'm sure both ways work.been doing it the factory way for 21 years now.
yea this guy makes it 100 times harder
just fill from the hose port and good to go
Do you need to have it running still?
@@russellwarren5569 no,the engine is off
Question, the manual talks about also clamping two other areas (on a 2005 GTI seadoo which I think has the same engine as this). the first is the engine drain hose which makes sense. The second is the injection hose going to the tuned pipe. Why does that need to be clamped? or do you do that? I've followed the instructions in this video so am I good to go, or should I also clamp off these three pipes and pour antifreeze in the coolant intake as per the manual?
@@KristopherDreger I have been clamping just the one hose on mine,have done this for the 21 years I have owned them,and I live in northern Michigan.gets extremely cold,never a Problem
Thanks, great video. I have a 1998 GTS Seadoo I bought new. I’ve always used compressed air to winterize. What is the red access fitting for on the head output or water input hose? Thanks Dennis North of Toronto Ontario Canada 🇨🇦🇨🇦
Excellent video, thank you.
I saw this is 7 years old but it’s the most helpful video I’ve found. I had a couple questions. How do you open the air box? Mine is the same as yours in the video but I don’t know how it opens. And where do you find engine fog?
Nice video you should make a complete video of everything including what to do with the spark plugs and the air filter
BRO! THANK YOU!
Awesome video, thanks so much. One question: is there a reason you put the antifreeze in that port versus just use the "t" port on the other hose? I know it's been a while since you posted this but thought I'd ask anyways.
When I originally made the video, it was hard for me to see the arrows through the camera. Just follow the directional arrows on your unit so you know which line to disconnect. The red quick connect was placed by my local dealer and was never used by me during the winterizing process.
excellent video .. so if I want to run my sea doo on the trailer I can just hook up a garden hose to the in line hose. ? what's that T for ? on the output
Video Well done
Question on identifying the input and output cooling flow lines. At 1:45, you say the one at the top of the video image is the input flow, and you show how you can follow it to the external inlet. At 2:05, you say the one at the bottom of the video image is where the water gets ejected. But, at 2:45, you seem to contradict yourself and say the opposite. This is based on the direction of the arrows on the engine. You say the one at the top of video image is the outflow and the one at bottom is the inflow. I assume the latter is correct, but I was under the assumption that the one connected to the external inlet would be the inflow, but does not seem to be the case for this. Can you clarify?
Yep, he said it wrong. You can flush that way but if he had the connector for the red fitting on the other side you can do it that way, just clamp the hose leading out of the ski .
I was the same way Ron very confused. I would think the line coming from the inlet fitting that pumps the water to the head would be the correct one. But right after he points at that line is switches over to the other side and does the hook up there. I do marine repair but have not done any ski repairs so I know nothing about this . But other than that his video is very good its what I needed to know
Roger Hockemier correct, I misspoke originally. It was hard to see the arrows through my phone camera when I originally made the video. You want to put your hose on the intake line, not the discharge line.
Erik Mortens are your hoses actually attached backwards then?
Negative, the hoses are correct but I misspoke in the video. You want the antifreeze to flow into the inflow line of engine.
So is pinching the lines and leaving antifreeze in it over winter not needed?
Merci !
I did all this. In the spring, some real nasty black gooey liquid came out the exhaust. Did the antifreeze degrade my exhaust pipe?
Over time oil can leak through the oil pump building up excess in the crank case. First time starting after a long time may see what you are describing.
I just purchased a 97 gts. Can you help me? How do you drain the oil and gas? How do you fuel these things? Premix? How fast do they go?
Its a 2 stroke so no need to change the oil gas and oil are seperate and they mix zuto
Where do both hose connect to ?
is fogging oil easy to find and where exactly do I spray it again? I have a 97, and 98 bombardi x and gts
Thinking about getting a 98 sea foo bombarder
Get a 96 XP
What is the nipple on the out hose for?? I have one of the same sea doos,,and thought it was for intake water,as I have a adapter that plugs onto that nipple and attaches to a garden hose? Im confused now.
re watched,,in beginning you said nipple side was intake,,,then minutes later you said the other way?? I want to run mine out of water?? which side do I hook hose to after I start it?? lol
@@5153flash you don't need the engine running to winterize
@@5153flash I have the exact same question. If someone knows please answer.
Can u just pour antifreeze in the intake
Yes,that's what I do,clamp the outflow hose,engine off
I wouldn't bother reusing the antifreeze. That stuff is cheap and its biodegradable so its enviro friendly. I wouldnt reuse that stuff
Olá meu jety parou da aquela pipe será qui e o modulo
What about the oil? - Josh
Not sure if you're asking about draining an oilpan or referencing the fogging oil, but it's a 2 smoke, so there is no oil to drain. Not trying to talk to you like you're dumb, just not sure if you're thinking it's a 4 stroke.
The fogging oil gets run through (without spark) to keep the inside of the motor lubed and uncorroded over the winter, because moisture is constantly in there, somewhere. So you can either put it in the filter like he did, or most of us pull the plugs, spray a "2 mississippi" count directly into each cylinder (it's an aerosol can), and then let the starter motor crank it around into the engine for about 10 seconds. This lubes up the works and defeats lingering moisture and corrosion while it sits for months without fresh premix going through it. Don't worry about getting it out when you "de-winterize", it will burn itself out on your first run next spring/summer. Just run it nice and easy for a few minutes before letting it rip on it's maiden run for the year.
The Antifreeze (Ethylene Glycol) also does the same for the cooling jacket of the motor, the intake, and the exhaust, just like the radiator of your car. I'm usually too lazy to do this, but he's absolutely right to do this because it displaces normal, corrosion causing water from the works to preserve all the parts that normally breathe in river water while you ride. If you've done a head gasket on these (ridiculously easy even if you can't change a Bicycle tire), then you will see how gross the inside of the cooling jacket of the engine gets from having actual, no BS river and ocean water in it, as well as sand and other crap. It's downright alarming once you see it for yourself and pick shreds of seaweed out of the inside of your engine block. And if you let rust eat into your exhaust because you didn't get all the water out, you will get the most common reason jet skis run on dry land but don't run when you put them in the water when shopping for one on Craigslist: The Water Box (which is your tailpipe) is blown. From bad maintenance and the explosive pressure of 2 stroke exhaust firing into it. The reason it's called a water box rather than a tailpipe, is because water is supposed to be in part of the exhaust, so, of course, you gotta get it out when stored for long periods. PWC's are a plumbing nightmare.
Also, I don't know how much 2 Stroke PWC experience some of you reading this may have, but some side notes from what I've learned the hard way:
1. Make sure to remove your battery and bring it inside for the winter, keep it off the cold concrete, and trickle charge it (on low amps) every month or so. Your contacts will thank you, and so will your starter and wallet. PWC batteries are more spendy than the average motorcycle battery, and I've mistreated many a spendy YB16CL-B battery to my everlasting expense.
2. Just change the spark plugs next spring. Just do it. Every year, like clockwork. And glob some dielectric grease on the top when you put them in. Hands down the #1 reason why some people waste money replacing a perfectly good CDI because they get no spark on a cylinder. Plug issues. And always have a spare plugs, a wrench, and some electro grease handy. Just trust me, HAVE SPARE PLUGS, YO. The day will come when you're glad you did. Oh, it will come.
3. Find Non-Ethanol race gas to fill your tank with stabilizer for the winter. If you ride all the time, then fine, deal with normal pump gas if have to. But for sitting for long periods, you need the stabilizer AND the non ethanol gas to get long term storage without the gas going kaput and causing heart ache.
4. Just a minor tip, but your engine might be fussy and a hard starter from sitting for 6 months. So the tip is to start it for 20 seconds (much longer and you sieze up the motor, remember it cools itself with the water you're riding in) on the trailer before backing down the ramp so you can troubleshoot, and when you're at the bottom of the boat ramp but JUST before you dip it into the water (literally a few seconds), start the motor and let it run so it starts without a tailpipe full of water on it's first run of the day. It may not like the xtra compression from the waterbox being full of H2o once it's in the aqua. This simply helps you avoid that "bad day" where it ran fine on the trailer, but it didn't want to start when sitting in the river. And then you're bummed out and frustrated, and your kids think you're bad with motorized things.
Edit, just other things noone ever tells you when you're a newbie 2 Stroke ski owner:
5. Run your motor for about 10-15 seconds again once you get home from a day's riding. There's still water in your exhaust. Guaranteed. Your neighbors may not like you, but your ski will.
6. If your 2 stroke ski flips upside down in the water for too long because Aunt Mildred is really bad at riding and doesn't know to right your Ski IMMEDIATELY, and it won't start back up on the water, don't keep cranking it. You've been Hydro-Locked. Water got all the way up into the cylinders. Unlike air, water doesn't compress. That starter cranking is going to cause the connecting rods to bend, and you're looking at an engine rebuild. Either IMMEDIATELY take it to the shop to get it pumped out if you're the nervous type with deep pockets, or pull it out of the water, remove the spark plugs (it's the only place for the water to come out of the top of the cylinders), and start cranking the engine uncovered. Water will be shoot out like Old Faithful from both the spark plug holes, the pisser, and the back. Crank it good and long, until you see no more water coming out the top. At this point either be confident that you cleaned your existing plugs, or slap a fresh set in. Drop it back into the water, and you will find it probably runs again. Do NOT let it sit with water in the cylinders for even a day if you can help it. It can survive and operate with a little moisture remaining (it will burn out the droplets left behind), but not a whole cylinder full. This happens to at least one of my skis every year because...well, family isn't people you choose, they're people you're stuck with. And sometimes they be DUMB. Obviously, this trick isn't for 4 strokes. You're going to the shop. Bring your credit card. A hydrolocked 4 stroke is a much, much bigger problem. We're talking water in the oil sump (because these have one), scorched valves, scored engine parts, bent rods, and a broken heart if you try to start it after water got in there.
7. Use real PWC 2 stroke oil. Non-ester blend, non-ash racing grade stuff. Yes, it's more expensive. Generic lawn mower oil might work on a Honda 5 hp outboard, but your ski isn't one. You will know you're using cheap gas and cheap oil when it starts farting and spitting, or you start having MUCH more expensive problems. I've trusted labels like Amsoil Interceptor and Yamaha Yamalube Waverunner Performance oil to give me lots of hours on my ancient 2 smoke motors. Get cheap with gas, oil, plugs, and battery, and you get a Bummer Day where your ski sits on the trailer. Mocking you.
8. Change your reeds (unless you have rotary valves). Every few years is a good idea. Sometimes you don't have bad carbs, you have bad reeds. A simple, flimsy piece of material that is pretty damn important and that gets ignored as the reason your old 2 stroke ski might be running like crap. Don't be intimidated about doing it yourself, taking the intake manifold and carb off to get to the reed cage is usually alot easier than it looks, and is only a couple of bolts
9. Your motor is running great, your ski is going slow. Going down the list from most likely and easiest to fix to worst:
a. You've got crap in your intake. You can usually get this out by hand, reaching under the ski (not running of course) and pulling it out. Don't keep blipping the gas. Just jump in and clear it out.
b. You've got crap around your impeller. You MIGHT get this out by hand, but you better go to shore. If desperate, a coat hanger and knife is surprisingly handy
c. Your wear ring (if you have one) is worn down. Too much water is getting around the impeller to make as much "jet" action to push you through. You CAN do this yourself, but it's involved. It's nothing more than a plastic ring designed to be really close to the prop and keep the water tight to it rather than running around it. And, as the name says, it wears down over time like a bushing. Alot of old kawasaki and yamaha skis do not have one at all, so you're probably looking at the next item....
d. Your impeller is tore up or has a big, hairy rock jammed permanently in it. Same physics as above. But more expensive to replace and put in, and involves things like pump oil, etc etc. However, it's an excuse to put in a badass Solas or Riva progressive pitch impeller, which can take a turd ski and turn it into a totally different animal. So can something as simple as a new handlebar setup
e. Your impeller shaft is stripped. This is what happens when you keep blipping the gas with a jammed up pump. In laymens terms, you're stripping out the one and only transaxle that exists on your ski. On many skis, replacing this means unbolting the engine and moving it temporarily to put in the new shaft.
f. Unlikely, but you might have a Temp Sensor putting you into Limp Home mode. It thinks you're roasting the engine, and dials it down whether you want it to or not. Push it too much, and it's gonna start shutting off the motor. Normally, you can run your ski and put your hand on the engine, and it's only Warm. Not dangerously hot. If it is only warm, and it keeps cutting power, then you probably have a messed up sensor or even the brain box isn't reading the sensor right. This can be a rabbit hole. If the engine actually IS too hot to touch when running, and it's doing this, you may have any one of the above problems causing the engine to work super hard and hot to push you through the water, and you should get A-E checked out.
@@WindFireAllThatKindOfThing omg i actually finished reading your comment lol. Well put👍. Also its going to be a a big help for me since i just got me a 97 bombardier gts. I gonna screen shot your comment for later use. Thanks a bunch. Oh you have sated you trust the amsoil intersetor and yamaha lube correct? I need help on what oil i should use and what/where or gas station with the racinggas i can get for this jetski.
That’s actually False.... the Impeller was made to resist heat/ burning
Agree,I always prestart my skis before heading to the lake,let them run about 30 seconds without any water hooked up.have owned them 21 years,no problem with the impeller
why didnt you show using the fogging stuff where do you spray it and you have to have the ski running? come on guy!!! you left have of how to do it out of the video!! 👎👎👎👎👎👎👎