How to replace a 2008 2009 2010 Caravan rear wheel bearing
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- Опубликовано: 11 ноя 2013
- Replacing a left rear wheel bearing on a 2009 Caravan. Its the same from year 2008 -2010 caravans.
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I like the bloopers section. But have to say very informative. Thank you
This guy is not only informative. He's funny too. Loved the video. Very helpful.
Thanks, very helpful and I really liked the humour. “ just drop your socket down there where it’s hard to get.” And “ at this time drop your light on the floor”.
Excellent video --just finished replacing bearings and rotors and this video is far-and-away the best for clearly showing how to do so... Thank you!
OMG!!! Doing mine on a 2008. You vid is a great help. But I have to tell ya. Auto repair in Minnesota is quite different. I have been pounding on one of the bearing for two hours now.
Took the fire wrench to it and heated up nice and hot. Taking a brake letting it cool. Then back to pounding.
Kelly Constenius I know it looks like it just fell off
I wish 🤨🍺😎
If your going to heat it with a torch.. get it hot, and then quench with cold water till it 100% cool. This will shock shrink the metal. I'm a welder. ;)
@@trevor5290 Heat quench.
One of the best "how to vehicle" videos I've seen. The sound, picture, and details were great. Thank you so much. I'm going to tackle mine tomorrow.
I've seen a lot "how to videos" but yours must be in the top 10! Thank you.
You are good at this. Keep going so we can all save some $ and look good in front of our wives !!! Bet you did not know you were impacting mariages positively.
It looked like the bearing assembly is a sealed unit. What? So I looked it up on Autozone's website, and it is! You don't have to pack the bearings anymore! That knowledge just saved me a day of work! Nice!
THANK YOU for posting this. Struggled for nearly 30 minutes with that stupid wheel sensor connector at 1:30. You saved a lot of frustration!
Very good video - right to the point no wasted words - all you have to know to Change wheel bearing ! Good technician like my self !
Thanks for the video. I have a 2013 town and country, waiting for the parts and I will do it myself thanks to your video.
THANK YOU SO MUCH...HAD MY VAN OVER 8 YEARS JUST NOW FINDING THE SPARE TIRE...AND WHERE IT LAY UNDER THE VAN...THANKS SOOOOMY 4 THIS INFORMATION🌸🙏🌺
Thanks. I supported the axel, took off the two lower shock bolts. Then lowered the axel a touch and took out the springs. As I was doing both sides it just made access to the bearing bolts so much easier.
Thank you. You are much more detailed than the other videos I watched.
Thank you so much for this video. I was so scared that I would be dealing with old style bearings. I used all hand tools and was done in little more than 2 hours.
I liked the old style beaings, really didn't take much longer to replace, they were a lot cheaper you could grease and adjust them, and in my recent experience they lasted longer. Everything is disposable now, there must be millions of these junk hub assemblies going into landfills, awful.
Thanks for this detailed video. I just replaced both rear bearings in my wife's 2008 T&C today and watching this first was definitely helpful (especially the part describing how the sensor connector actually works...I'm sure I would have broken mine if I hadn't watched this first). One thing I encountered (and it might be because of the amount of rust on our van) is that when I tried to get the deep-well socket onto the bearing bolts from the back, my impact sockets were actually just a bit too thick (the wall of the socket) to get 100% on the bottom ones. I think this was due to all the rust on the old hub and the tight clearance (11 years old and driven 250,000 miles in rust-belt). So, I just used my regular (non-impact) deep well socket and it fit just right since the walls on those are thinner. Since these bolts are not torqued too tight, it zipped right off with my impact. Mine also required much more persuasion with a lot of rust penetrant, a large hammer, and about 20 minutes of pounding on each side until it finally fell out (wish mine came out as easily as yours did!). Thanks again for the video!
If I broke the black tab off that he pushes down then how do I get it to disconnect
@@lesrhoads8730 - Are you referring to 1:33 in the video? If that is the tab and it's broken, you could probably disconnect it by prying on it with some small screw driver or something. If you've broken it, it's already gone so don't worry about breaking it more to disconnect it. When you reconnect it with broken tabs, you'll just have to use zip ties or something to keep it locked together. Hope this helps.
@@dewrus2153 OK thank you. I got it apart
Excellent tutorial.
Thanks for sharing.
Great job, thank you! Just heading outside to do this job....only -1 here on PEI.....
THANK U FOR THE GREAT VIDEO.........GOD BLESS U BROTHER
Thanks for your informative and well documented video,it helped a lot
Thank you - I need to do this to my 2012 van soon & your video helps me understand what I'm going to need to do.
Great video!! thanks for the guidance.
Good video! Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the help, I just successfully replaced a wheel bearing on a 2010 T&C and I referenced this video.
thanks for your video. very help full
Awesome video bro! I am about to do this same job on my 2008. Thanks a bunch!
this is a very good video it's help me alot.
Should anything be torqued?
Great Video! I am just wondering what is the torque specifications on this?
great video! I am sure it will help me out a lot. It was very funny also.
Should tie caliper up as well so it isn't hurting the line and I always clean and lube the slides and pins while its apart ... They're known to seize up
These have the built in E-brake, there is a steel cable attached so it's not totally hanging by the hydraulic line
For new people seeing this, and think "Eh, I'll get to it in a week or so..." Best make sure you are doing small trips till then, I had to do a long trip, so much problems from the heat build up! Oh and have the right tools to begin with, for me, DeWalt impact wrench wasn't enough, had to hit Harbor Freight for a corded impact wrench (OMG what a huge freaking difference!) The hub was $130 for me, shops around here wanted $400 to do this. Spend less than $270 difference on tools (also had to get brake pads and caliper tool NOTE: we got lucky and didn't have a large enough C Clamp to do like the front brakes... then found out when went to get a larger one, that is NOT how you do rear ones, they spin not just squeeze in!)
How long did it take between tire dismount and mount?
Awesome video...thanks
very good video
wish i had a hoist
Simply the best
Do you a video on the oil pan gasket replacement?I’ve watched videos here but not to confident in what I’ve watched.
Thank you so much, you instilled confidence in me to do this job which I just completed - and all works well. I did grind down the brake shoe tabs and lubed the slides and rattle clips because the rear brakes on these are known to not release from the rotor. Again, thank you so much for putting this together.
Thank you for your video it's great things you done to teach every one whom not mechanic ,,I want yo ask you one questions about the glove? Which type and where can find it? Thank you
Pick em up at Harbor Freight Amee - gotta keep them nails nice.
pro tip; electrical tape ur wobble to slow the roll...
The bracket that is on the area that the hub bolt are in 13 mm holds ebrake I think someone previous tried to attempt to remove hub and failed and broke the bolt that holds that bracket and the ebrake bracket on the frame as well. Any idea the part number or how to obtain that for those bolts? And yeah this hub is rusted on 12 years of new England weather. 170k even the bolts are rusted tried heat and a week of penetrant and not able to get these 16mm bolts out. But I am determined not to give up like the previous owner did.
Nice job.
What's the "lever" on that wheel bearing connector? Your hand is in the way
Wonderful video! You made it look so easy! How much would you charge to fly here to western Canada and do the back bearings on my 2002 Dodge Caravan? Lol.
What sound did it make to tell you it was the hub bearing? Trying to pin point my problem on 2011 town and country
Makes a sort of growling noise that sneaks up on you over time and you kinda get used to it, you may suspect it's tire noise. If you go to empty parking lot and make sharp turns back and forth you may notice changes in the tone of the noise. Jack up suspect wheel, grasp on the top and bottom of wheel and try rocking back and forth, if you feel any, even very slight movement it's probably the bearing.
Hello can you help me my 2009 dodge caravan its starts but it keeps turning off I change the egr valve but still keeps turning off it has the check engine light on you think I can give me an idea....
Too late to help you, but for anyone else having this trouble, it could be the key fob or ignition module the key fits into, there was a recall on some of these
Do you also do the front wheel bearing video? for an 2010 dodge caravan se
I need someone I know to have a failed front wheel bearing on their Caravan to replace! It hasn't happened yet.
Try a 5/8 socket on the bearing mounting bolts - I tried 15mm, 16 mm and 9/16, none of them worked - 5/8 did - I have a 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with a 3.8L engine
Excellent video. One thing I wish I had done is cut the ABS wire during removal then it would have been easier to thread the new one exactly where the old one was. Also, I had a tough time getting my socket wrench into those bolts holding the bearing but you did it as though it was nothing. I am thinking that I should try a hinged air impact wrench like you used. Is that an attachment on your air wrench or is it built in. I couldn't find it on Amazon. What is is called? - Thanks.
+Bill Drake www.amazon.com/Sunex-2300-2-Inch-Universal-Impact/dp/B000LQEV9Y
Other than the ABS light did your hub make any noise?
Worked perfectly. Still working to this day.
I can only assume since it is also a Mopar product a Town and country would be the same.
What would be the symptoms of a bad rear wheel bearing? I notice my wheel moves back and forth when I try to wiggle it......when I go over bumps I get this loud thumping noise. I thought it was my shocks but new ones made no difference.....usually bad bearings meaning a screeching noise but I don't have that.....just a loud thump like somebody forgot to bolt the car to the frame. Any suggestions?
There should be no movement in your wheel wiggle it. That is a good indication that the bearing could be bad. The most common concern with a failed wheel bearing is a humming noise that gets louder with speed.
Like very loud road noise and the sound changes if you swerve left or right? Its not a high pitch like my 5th ave everyone heard that thing.
What is the size of the bolt (13mm hex head) that holds the parking brake cable bracket down? I broke the head off of mine while taking it out and need to buy replacement after I drill out the remainder of the bolt.
Robert Brnjac just broke mine to
I usually just knock off the weld nut on the backside of the trailing arm and install a nut/bolt. Use a chisel and hammer to remove the nut.
after changing both rear bearings my abs,traction control ,and e brake lights stay on how do i get rid of them also how can i take off the low tire light dont have the sensers no more
Having the same issue. Did you ever get rid of this problem? If so, any inputs? Thanks!
Love how he tapss it and it moves lol he cut the part where you bang the hell out of it
is it any different in 2012 Grand Caravan ??
I believe its the same for 2012. 2012 had a rear wheel bearing recall that may apply to your vehicle. I would call the dealership and see if it qualifies.
Does this work the same for the town and country?
+josh82685 Yes.
Is it common for these bearing to fail on this Caravans? I have a 2010 right rear that appears to be having a problem. Should I just go ahead a replace the left side too?
Yes it's a common failure. Personally I would only replace the failed bearing.
Cool, thanks man.
Do you need the special caliper tool to push the piston back to reattach the caliper? That is my fear to do the rears.
I never had to push the piston back in. If you need to push it back in then you will need the tool, or find away to turn the caliper while pushing it back.
I use a giant C clamp. At least that worked on older brakes.
@@crownedroyal2003 I always use a Big Clamp.
Just did the whole process, but got the ABS light afterwards. Any inputs?
Tried reading a code with my Innova 3000 OBD II code reader, but no codes in there...
Tried disconnecting the new wiring harness and plugging in the old hub with the old wiring harness... No luck...
Did you turn the key on with the sensor disconnected? There might be a code stored that needs to be cleared in order for the light to go out.
+BackYard Tech (Crownedroyal2003) I'll try that out. But, wouldn't the code come up if I scan it with my code reader?
Your scanner will only read ODB II emission codes.
+BackYard Tech (Crownedroyal2003) Thanks for the reply. I did have the key turned on without the sensor plugged in. I'll have to get someone to take a look at the codes then.
did u get this worked out i just did the same thing turned the key on with it unhook
just changed the wheel bearing on the rear passenger and did all brakes now my brake pedal is really low what could of caused this???
Many things could cause a low pedal. Things to check are: brake fluid leak, pad installation is correct, and slide pins move freely.
Thank u
Erlene Ostrander I should mention the obvious cause of low brake pedal is air in the brake system. If this is the issue bleeding the brakes should correct.
Doesn't look like the rear pads are making complete contact with the rotor.
Any other tricks when you beat on the hub for an hour and it won't move?
I would try and rocking the bearing surface front to back to try and beak the corrosion free from the hub.
What about rust penetrating WD-40?
Total time start to finish was about 45 minutes. Hoist and air tools make he job much faster.
I was doing great, right up to getting the bearing ass'y to let go. I beat on it with a large hammer, shot it up on both sides with PB Blaster, tried driving a chisel between them, tried a crowbar in the center hole to put leverage on it while beating it with a hammer, and tried heating it with a torch. Nothing works! I am stuck at this point!
Did you ever get it out? I tried pounding on mine yesterday for about 20 minutes and gave up. I just doused both sides with a ton of Kroil and let it sit over night. Today, I pounded for about 2 minutes and it popped out...guess it was able to seep to where it needed to seep over night. Anyway, hope yours worked out.
I find that rust check is an excellent penetrating oil if you can leave it for some time. To separate bearing you can try an air chisel between bearing assy and control arm.
For others who get this, keep in mind the bearing sits in a hole, so direct up/down on it won't work (other than maybe break corrosion). Also this means you have not much space to wedge anything behind it. I put Liquid Wrench all around the edges, and on the back site on the edge between shield and arm. After sitting a little bit, i started hitting the edge of the shield (if you think of a non full moon, hitting the corners) that let it spin a slight bit, then hit the other side, kept doing this for a while getting LW worked down in there. Finally got enough room to get claw of hammer in to pound it in as far as it goes (again, the thing sticks through the arm, so you don't get far. This was enough to start taking out aggression on the hub and get it to finally work back and forth to pop off. So satisfying when it fell off!
naic jop thanks gays
I would have lub up the pins
Mine are so rusted wish i lived where it didnt get that rusty
What kind of coffee?
Melita? or maybe kirkland.
the bolts holding doing the bearing, is it 17mm or 16mm
16mm.