I really enjoy how little editing you've done in the sense that you've included all of the tiny hassles that make the job a struggle. The stud replacement was super simple, but it's always one of the other little things like moving the brake that makes the job a pain.
Trying to find a balance between too little editing and too much. I am not scared to show my screwups. Also difficult parts I feel are important that you see, in case you have the same issue. Lots more Caravan videos to come! Working on one as we speak. Take care.
Glad the video was of help Daniel. Many times the studs end up breaking from being over tightened. Tire shops can sometimes be the worst at this. Hope the rest of your trip is safe. Take care!
@@unclemarksdiyauto Thanks and I agree. I'm driving a 2008 DGC. A week ago my ABS/break light went on, but that went back off when I changed battery. But 5 days ago I started noticing just a bit of woobling when I hit the breaks. I think that I was driving with only 3 studs at this time. Yesterday the third one probably snapped too. I did it all exactly as you show on the video. I hope you feel happy about being so helpful!
@@danielbruno1718 I appreciate help I also have received from some on RUclips. I have made some good friends with similar channels. It can be a great community.
Here it's 80$ an hours, and the job seem very easy I'm going to do it today, almost lost my wheel, I guess I could do it in 30 min since my brake won't be that harder to put back and won't need to separate the brake pad like you. Thanks alot for the video it's costed me stud and nut small bills to pay,
@@unclemarksdiyauto I'm in Canada in the french part that people like to talk against xD. We can manage to find one at 40$/hours but still, never tough other part of the country could be this much costly.
This job gets way harder in the rear of the 2011, the dirt/gravel shield behind the rotor makes it so that you can't get the bolt/stud in or out. Thanks for the video though! P.S. A big C-clamp works wonders on pressing the caliper down.
Hi Mark!..great video..This is exactly what I was looking for..I almost paid to have this done.....I'm gonna attempt it...One question...what do I do as an alternative to seat the new bolt... I don't have your handy dandy block spacer thingamajig :)
I have to do this soon on my DGC. I have seen the procedure in the service manual, but I wanted to see the process with removing the brakes before hand. I noticed that you used the sledge hammer to knock the stud loose from the wheel base. In the service manual it says to not do that as it will damage the wheel bearings causing premature failure. What is your take on that? The service manual refers to a stud removal tool number 8677, but that seems to be rather cost-prohibitive from what I have seen for a DIYer like yourself and me ($300-$400).
I am not too sure what I think. I do know the bearings take a lot of abuse from road bumps, pot holes and the like. You know how bad it can feel inside the vehicle as you drive. I was thinking the sledge can't be any worst, but I could be wrong. These vans do have weak hub bearings as it is. I bet that a shop uses the sledge as well. Maybe see what others are doing?
I really enjoy how little editing you've done in the sense that you've included all of the tiny hassles that make the job a struggle. The stud replacement was super simple, but it's always one of the other little things like moving the brake that makes the job a pain.
Trying to find a balance between too little editing and too much. I am not scared to show my screwups. Also difficult parts I feel are important that you see, in case you have the same issue. Lots more Caravan videos to come! Working on one as we speak. Take care.
You saved my life with this video. Crossing the US as a foreign tourist on my own and three studs came apart in the middle of Texas. Thank you.
Glad the video was of help Daniel. Many times the studs end up breaking from being over tightened. Tire shops can sometimes be the worst at this. Hope the rest of your trip is safe. Take care!
@@unclemarksdiyauto Thanks and I agree.
I'm driving a 2008 DGC. A week ago my ABS/break light went on, but that went back off when I changed battery. But 5 days ago I started noticing just a bit of woobling when I hit the breaks. I think that I was driving with only 3 studs at this time. Yesterday the third one probably snapped too.
I did it all exactly as you show on the video. I hope you feel happy about being so helpful!
@@danielbruno1718 I appreciate help I also have received from some on RUclips. I have made some good friends with similar channels. It can be a great community.
@@unclemarksdiyauto keep up the awesome work! Just subscribed!
If you like this video, check out my other videos I have in my Grand caravan playlist:
Here it's 80$ an hours, and the job seem very easy I'm going to do it today, almost lost my wheel, I guess I could do it in 30 min since my brake won't be that harder to put back and won't need to separate the brake pad like you. Thanks alot for the video it's costed me stud and nut small bills to pay,
Here in Canada, your looking at $100 to $200 a hour at least.
@@unclemarksdiyauto
I'm in Canada in the french part that people like to talk against xD. We can manage to find one at 40$/hours but still, never tough other part of the country could be this much costly.
@@sthaviuswolf Let me know how you make out my friend!
This job gets way harder in the rear of the 2011, the dirt/gravel shield behind the rotor makes it so that you can't get the bolt/stud in or out. Thanks for the video though! P.S. A big C-clamp works wonders on pressing the caliper down.
@@pjpdjs Thanks for the info! Got some new specialized tools for caliper that works very well. Have a newer 2013 Caravan, so more videos to come.
Hi Mark!..great video..This is exactly what I was looking for..I almost paid to have this done.....I'm gonna attempt it...One question...what do I do as an alternative to seat the new bolt... I don't have your handy dandy block spacer thingamajig :)
Troy, you could try a couple of bigger nuts (bigger than the treads) as a spacer, or a bunch of washers? It was easy to do!
@@unclemarksdiyauto oooh. Ok I will let you know how it goes! 😁
I have to do this soon on my DGC. I have seen the procedure in the service manual, but I wanted to see the process with removing the brakes before hand. I noticed that you used the sledge hammer to knock the stud loose from the wheel base. In the service manual it says to not do that as it will damage the wheel bearings causing premature failure. What is your take on that? The service manual refers to a stud removal tool number 8677, but that seems to be rather cost-prohibitive from what I have seen for a DIYer like yourself and me ($300-$400).
I am not too sure what I think. I do know the bearings take a lot of abuse from road bumps, pot holes and the like. You know how bad it can feel inside the vehicle as you drive. I was thinking the sledge can't be any worst, but I could be wrong. These vans do have weak hub bearings as it is. I bet that a shop uses the sledge as well. Maybe see what others are doing?
how do you keep the stud from spinning......once i got pressure on the stud and start to snug it up it spins rather than draw in....
Can you jamb something behind it for pressure (maybe 2 person job) then try to snug it up?
🔧😃🔧
Pretty easy with some thinking for the average vehicle owner. Have a great weekend Lakes!