CAN'T GET RID OF ALGAE? TRY THIS!
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2024
- NEVER HAVE ALGAE AGAIN! There is only one thing that will really help you get rid of algae once and for all, and it's actually quite simple when you think about it. Too often we over complicate this topic, but I want to change that. I see it as my mission to help more people enjoy an algae free aquarium, so in the next few weeks I will be focusing more on this topic!
🚨Watch this next!🚨
Inspiration playlist! • Build Videos
CO2 buying guide! • BEST CO2 SYSTEM FOR BE...
How to SETUP your CO2! • EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO...
Simple fertilizer dosing! • SIMPLE AQUARIUM PLANT ...
EASY SHOPPING! (affiliate links)
My favorite soil
(US) bit.ly/3Hopkda
The light that I use (low tech)
(US) bit.ly/3b1XiZe
The light that I use (high tech)
(US) bit.ly/3mJ2rYH
Potassium
(US) amzn.to/3NSeEGb
(US) bit.ly/3mIUG4S
(EU) amzn.to/3mMsazq
Algae scraper
(US) bit.ly/3aTq6ms
(EU) amzn.to/39t6EN5
👉🏻Cool Aquascaping T-shirts: mosscotton.com/ Code: mjaqua10
👉🏻Be sure to SUBSCRIBE to my RUclips channel: / mjaquascaping
👉🏻 Use Code ''amsterdam'' for 10% off CO2art products
0:00 - Intro
0:20 - 1 year ago
1:29 - Not clickbait
1:59 - The ONE thing you have to do to get rid of algae
2:40 - Every planted tank is different
3:35 - Low tech & balanced
5:51 - Actual nutrient levels
7:04 - High tech & balanced
9:26 - Low tech & not balanced
12:56 - Balance takes time
13:53 - High tech & not balanced
14:59 - 2 tips
#plantedtank #aquascape #mjaquascaping 
Животные
Hope this is helpful guys! Don't give up! Getting rid of algae does not have to be complicated!
🚨Watch this next!🚨
Inspiration playlist! ruclips.net/p/PLr...
CO2 buying guide! ruclips.net/video/dIVrr1yS3sU/видео.html
How to SETUP your CO2! ruclips.net/video/qSHZ4F2PI2o/видео.html
Simple fertilizer dosing! ruclips.net/video/I_KBOUM1RXM/видео.html
EASY SHOPPING! (affiliate links)
My favorite soil
(US) bit.ly/3Hopkda
The light that I use (low tech)
(US) bit.ly/3b1XiZe
The light that I use (high tech)
(US) bit.ly/3mJ2rYH
Potassium
(US) amzn.to/3NSeEGb
(US) bit.ly/3mIUG4S
(EU) amzn.to/3mMsazq
Algae scraper
(US) bit.ly/3aTq6ms
(EU) amzn.to/39t6EN5
👉🏻Cool Aquascaping T-shirts: mosscotton.com/ Code: mjaqua10
👉🏻Be sure to SUBSCRIBE to my RUclips channel: RUclips.com/mjaquascaping
👉🏻 Use Code ''amsterdam'' for 10% off CO2art products
Hi Mark! Loving the videos! FYI, that first link, the inspiration playlist, doesn't work!
I am so grateful for having the benefit of your experienced advice while just getting started with my new aquarium. Your calm and clear manner of speaking makes you easy to listen to as well. Thank you!
Great video, MJ!
Thanks for this knowlodge and tips!
Thank you so much for this particular video. I've been struggling with algae for a long time. So, thank for your tips. What you said makes so much sense.
Very easy to understand not so simple topics - thanks for the great explanation.
If I could double like this video I would. This is so accessible for anyone to understand. Amazing video!
Thanks for this video! It’s really helpful. I’ve been having some algae issues for a few weeks, so I’m going to try your suggestions and see how it goes!
Fantastic video and information MJ keep it up,
Great explanation btw. Making sense of the trials and error I did.
Excellent walk through and nice analogy. Patience is tip number 1, but it makes for boring content. Big fan from Canada!!
Love these videos man
I used to dose Macronutrients daily before and I had Staghorn and dark green fuzzy algae on a lot of my plant leaves. After I switched the ferts regime to dosing only trace elements and some K every 2 days, I have seen a significant improvement to my tank's health. I kept the dosing of Macro only after a water change, and after killing most of the algae with florish Excel and manual maintenance, they have not come back. Based on my experience, I can confirm that a big majority of algae issues that people have come from an overuse of fertilizers. We really underestimate how powerful our soils are. I also think that a lot of people get confused when they read all of this information on the internet about a perfect planted tank havind 20-30 ppm Nitrates, whatever PPM Phosphates etc - but what they end up doing is dosing these macro nutrients in excess so they can get that number in their water column. What they do not realize is that those nutrients in the water column are wasted nutrients that provide no extra value to the plants and instead feed algae. I think as a simplified advice that everyone should follow: always trust in your active soil and your substrate system. It provides more than enough for your root feeding plants and slow growing plants such as Buce and Anubias need very little nutrition, so there is never a need to overdose on nutrients.
Exactly this!
Appreciate you typing this out and I’m thinking of taking a similar approach. I am dosing EI dry powder right now and have nitrate levels from 20-30ppm, but have been struggling with algae. I see contradicting information online (algae from not enough nitrates) and it is so frustrating trying to decipher what is true and what isn’t. Might give your approach a shot and see what happens
@@mattsdmf367 By all means! Do not try to decipher what you read on the internet. Please keep in mind that every tank is different. It's a different ecosystem on its own so no answer you find on the internet about dealing with algae, will come out as satisfactory. The issue requires a lot of trial and error on your own side, in order to be solved, which requires experience and I guess this is where a lot of aquascapers get frustrated and quit. I have set up a 35L scapers Dennerle tank about a month ago and have had a lot of algae issues with it at first. After I switched my regime to the one mentioned above, the tank looks amazing now, but no algae issues. If I showed you my tests, I have basically 0ppm nitrates, almost 0 PO4 and yet my plants look really good, and I have some tricky plants in there, such as Ludwigia Arcuata, Proserpinaca Palustris, Monte Carlo, Didiplis Diandra, Alth. mini. They have started turning orange and red and are pearling like crazy. That's because I have very good substrate that I trust, good light and very good CO2. If you also have good substrate then by all means, try the method I suggested above and I hope you learn something very useful about your tanks during the process!
@@adrianradu2332 wow thank you so much for typing all that out! I have eco complete and root tabs right now so I am fairly confident that the substrate is supplying necessary nutrients. One question, when you say you dose micros, does that include iron? Thanks again!
@@mattsdmf367 Yes, micro nutrients or trace elements includes iron and other metals such as Copper and Zinc. These usually get consumed very fast by the plants so it is safe to dose them more often
As a beginner into aquascape, a big thank you to you making this video for us out there trying to balance our tank who have a difficult time understanding how much each component of the formula contribute to the balance of the tank. Thank you for providing the different tanks water test result and explain how you achieve balance to each tank, it was very helpful for me trying to restore my planted tank to balance after a co2 injection system problem and staghorn algae is on everywhere in my tank. Always love your video! Keep up the good content! Thanks a lot!
Happy to hear it was helpful! Don't give up! Soon you will defeat the staghorn and have a beautiful tank!
Thanks for all the information :) Not easy to talk about algae, and with the way you did, we get usefull insights :)
what a very informative video, thanks mark :)
Every algae video you put out I learn something. With gaining experience, I appreciate your honesty so much!
Thank you Christine! 😊
You don't have to explain click bait. You are helping us!
This was super helpful!! Your the first to actually test your water for nutrients and it gives me somewhere to start. I need floaters and a better clean up crew.
You got this!
Another great video, Mark! You put the theory behind my practice :)
Excellent!
Very good my friend your video. I live in Brazil and I also learned from mistakes in my planted aquarium, with sometimes wrong tips on nutrient and Co2 dosages for plants. Today I have a balanced aquarium with few doses of nutrients and co2.
Thanks a lot for the tips.
duidelijk uitgelegd, dank.
This is a great video.
We need more of those. There are too much videos about perfect aquariums on RUclips.
Like next time you have a huge algae issue, please please post a step by step tutorial on how you did get rid of it, through multiple videos.
As always, thanks for your knowledge
As always very welcome Thomas 😊
Pretty cool video. It will help to find the right balance for my tank. Thanks for your amazing works...
Good luck!
Nice overview with specific, helpful information!
In my own experience, the keys to preventing algae have been to plant heavily from the start and then to do large, frequent water changes.
Yep that's solid advice!
Great advice as always MJ, truly appreciate!
I'm currently having multiple algae issues (hair algae, fuzzy algae, green spot algae, green dust algae, BBA on water outflow) for my 2 months old tank, appreciate your advice.
- initially everything is good without algae issue, algae issue started when I added all-in-one liquid fertilizer for almost a week then I realized and stop dosing immediate (already closed to a month since stop dosing)
- water ph 6.9-7.1, tds average at around 150. lights on for 7.5 hours 50W and CO2 for 9 hours (CO2 on 1.5 hours earlier than light) for 96litre tank size with fluval 207 external filter
- tank with 4 amano and 1 SAE + 4 otocinclus and 10 black molly + other small breed tropical fishes
Facts:
- fuzzy green algae growth throughout slow growing plant leaves and on hardscape surface *(most fuzzy has been eliminated by now except minor bit on hard surface)
- still having issue with hair algae especially on multiple breed of rotala and Christmas moss alongside green dust and green spot algae on glass surface
- only 1 small BBA on outflow
Current maintenance:
1. water change 30% 2 times a week (added seachem bacteria every water change)
2. DIY to clean hair algae with brush and scalper on surface for green dust and green spot algae
Questions:
1. Anything else I need to take action i.e. reducing light and CO2 duration & intensity and etc..
2. Should I use algae removal chemical liquid (trying not to except as last resort)
3. Should I get multi test kits to measure the nutrient levels such as iron, phosphate and pottasium?
2 times a week is overkill IMO. A test could show you how often you need to change the water. I do it once 2-3 weeks with most tanks.
Amazing topic today.. thank you 🙏🏽
You are so welcome
I agree with cutting back liquid fertilizer. After I did that on my 60p aqua scape I have literally no algae. I dose only once every 2 weeks. Great video
Great, thanks for share.
Well presented video content as always 👍
Appreciate that
hey mate. do a tour for your house + aquariums someday. we’re eager to see all of it..it’s going to be epic!!
Great video
i love the content made me laugh when you forgot the third thing lol. keep the great content coming im not big into fish but i love the plants watching your content inspired me to try some snails and some vallisneria spiralis so i have 1 snail and 10 plants of val only. iv had it now for 30 days and i wonder what would you put into it as a second plant or what would you add to a baron tank if it only had 1 snail and val in it again im not a fish guy im a plant nerd new to water plants thanks much for the time. and have you ever build a tank and scape a little at a time like i am doing or do you just full commit and build it out everything at once
I used to dose macro nutrients almost daily before and I had issues with staghorn and dark green fuzzy algae that would completely cover my leaves. Once I changed my approach to only dosing trace + K every 2 days, with macro nutrients only after a water change, I definitely saw a great improvement to my tank's health. Plants are just as healthy, but algae no longer grows on them. I killed most of the algae I had from the past with flourish excel and manual maintenance and it has not come back since then. Based on my experience, I definitely agree that the excess of nutrients is the cause in a big majority of algae issues. We tend to underestimate how nutrient rich our active soils are. Also, I think a lot of misunderstanding comes from the internet, where you see all these forums that say "a healthy planted tank should have 20-30 PPM Nitrates, whatever PPm fosfates, etc - but a lot of people go so crazy for those numbers, that they start dosing in excess to have those numbers in their water column. What they don't understand is that those PPM's are wasted nutrients that plants don't use and instead feed algae. So I think as a general rule to make people understand is to trust their active soil that it provides more than enough for their root feeding plants and only dose very little liquid. Slow growing plants such as Anubias and Buce won't use much of it anyways, so there is absolutely no reason to go overboard with it.
Where did you buy the wooden shelf? Looks amazing with the aquariums. 😍
Thanks!
Basic biology class focused on 3 main elements for plants. CO2, H2O, & Light. Those three produced glucose. While nutrients are also required, they never received the amount of discussion as the main three. That’s how I have thus far approached my tank. While I’m not winning any awards anytime soon, I have yet to experience any catastrophic results and continue to see sustained growth albeit slow. I think patience is the critical key most folks are short on when it comes to a balanced system. While algae may be unsightly, it is a good sign that the life cycle is occurring. From there it’s just a matter of tinkering with the parameters in order to dial in desired results. Your content does a brilliant job at discussing how to approach this.
Have you done a video on phosphorous? How to lower it? just info about it in general to I would find so helpful. I struggle with high phos, in my well water and pH and water hardness.
Love your videos!
I like your chanel a lot (subscribe this for over 2years), about that i start my own chanel goes more about comparisons and plantgrow but aquascaping is one of the main points.
It´s extremly great to see your chanel grow over the last year, i hope you make this forever :D
great regards from germany
Christian
Awesome! I'm going to check out your channel!
@@MJAquascaping Thank you very much !
Don’t forget to test your tap water! I had no algae in Michigan. After moving to Houston, I’ve nearly given up the hobby because the algae is a constant struggle! Turns out the water here is heavy on nitrates & nitrites, among other things! (Including hexavalent chrome, which Erin Brockovich found in the water at Hinkley! 🤨) I’m getting an RO filter for my drinking water and making a giant carbon filter to prefilter the water for my tanks, asap.
Great algae solution 👍🏻
waiting always ure videos bro.... nice to meet u
Very helpful that you share with examples. You got me inspired to go to the diy co2 route. Doing that for 4 months now, very good.
Thanks for the channel.
Groetjes uit Limburg 🙂
Question: is there something you can share and we can learn together on dosing fish food in terms of balancing our water ?
Awesome! Great to hear the DIY CO2 is working for you. About the fish food I think if you are not feeding excessively it shouldn't really affect your water that much. At least not in a normal planted tank with normal fish stocking. Probably a different story for a discus tank or cichlid tank
Sensacional esse vídeo.
Yep, light, the gas pedal (accelerator pedal here in the UK) is a great analogy. Some root tabs are weighted towards Nitrate, so yes, care is needed. Phosphate is commonly regarded as the key algae food source in polluted rivers. Iron again needs to be kept low, but more might be needed in hard water. Generally, long photo periods help algae more than intense light, but again take care.
Ref. filters, a HoB = surface agitation and will drive out CO2, big slow externals with large bacteria colonies actually release CO2, Bacteria respire like fish, but there are billions of them. Unless using a spray bar, big externals can eat up oxygen as well, so just take care when injecting CO2. Good luck and thanks as always. Tanks look great.
MJ, thank you for another great video. I appreciate your perspective and realistic expectations. What do you do with slow-growing plants that have been heavily "infected" with algae that is difficult to remove? Do you heavily trim them, replace them, or treat them with some sort of algicide?
Usually I will spot treat them with ''liquid carbon'' and if it's really bad I just trim it.
Drastic but can work (have done it), Java fern can be dipped for 30 seconds or so in 10% bleach solution, rinsed and then put in a low light high CO2 environment. The algae turns blue/white dies and plant can breath and photosynthesis and in low light high CO2 has a competitive advantage so long as, the water column is low in Nitrate and Phosphate, I aim for
At 15:48 there is a render issue with the video. The actual content is great and much practical. Thank you.
wow nice!
My biggest problem with algae is that it coats my plants which causes my plants to suffer 🙃.
Great videos👍👍
Hi MJ, thanks for the informative video. Please suggest how to deal with algae when the planted tank is exposed to sunlight? I mean the indirect sunlight coming through windows or doors. Should the photoperiod be the same as sunlight? and with what duration?
Great video as always. ✌🏻
Any recommendations on what type of snails in a tank with no lid. I loved seeing my nerite on the glass, but was always going walkies.
The clithon snails are my favorite! If yours are escaping try looking into a sort of ''wax'' that you can apply on the rim of your tank. If the snails touch the ''wax'' it will irritate them and they will go back in the water.
Personally I prefer tanks without CO_2 injections, but with some plants it's really tough. Some plants don't grow well without CO_2, but most of them need just the right nutrients and light.
Currently I'm trying something seemingly crazy: 714l dirted planted. It's similar to Diana Walstad method. The recipe called for "1 inch of soil, 2 inches of sand". The key point is having a thick layer of sand, otherwise nutrients go to the water column fast and only frequent water changes can save it.
I'd also recommend dosing even established aquariums with anaerobic and aerobic bacteria. Also I've got a cleanup crew in every tank from snails to shrimps or SAE in bigger tanks (oldest one is 15 cm long).
I am struggling the path of fertilizer with nitrates. Many say that you need nitrates in the aquarium for plants to grow. If you have aquasoil i can understand that plants can use it through their roots but when do you start dosing nitrate after it depledes from the soil and how long before you need to add nitrates?…. Sorry long question. I love your videos!
Always thankful to your great content.
Probably we can try EI dosing and Non-EI dosing experiment to see if high nutrients really cause algae or not...
Good idea!
@@MJAquascaping 😁🙏💚
Yeah I always hear different ideas about what causes algae. Some say that excessive nutrients doesn't cause algae and it's the lack of nutrients that causes algae. I'm still in limbo with this. I'd like this test too.
@@tigersunruss it would be a very nice idea..and could be difficult as well...but nothing that our Mark can't try out 😁
Well you only have to look at the hundreds or thousands of tanks that dose heavily with EI and dont have a spot of algae to see proof that excess nutrients do not cause algae.
I had algae once that's appear in my tank when I was outstation. But the reason is because I don't have plug timer so the light is on for whole week. Now I don't have the problem anymore after control the lighting, used the nitrifying filter media (no need to use a lot), and add good bacteria. My tank is clear as crystal now!
Thank you ! This is a great video & appreciate you taking the time to put it together . One question - can you explain why you are dosing additional potassium in the first tank you showed ? Would the all the one fert not cover the K needs ? Thanks
The all in one does cover the K needs, but because I'm dosing the all in one ferts only once in 2-3 weeks i like to add a bit more K. Also fish/shrimp waste creates more N and P and not so much K
@@MJAquascaping that is a brilliant idea! Thank you for replying :)
It's interesting to see your opinion and your success and the opinion and success of those who use the EI method and add excess nutrients.
Yep 2 very different methods!
@@MJAquascaping I'll be honest, when I dose EI according to the tom barr method, in conjunction with small daily water changes, I get the best results. So I kind of use both methods. I heavy dose 2 hours after lights go on,then 20%-25% water change in the evening. No issues at all with algae and plants look fantastic.
@@DRaquascapes Water changes everyday ?!
@@Tavagaveule I have nano tanks and bowls... I use a 32 ounce cup and only two or 3 trips to the sink. It's easy. I dont remove to much and I wont recommend it if the tank is being cycled. It also keeps my nitrates low to achieve the most color from my red plants.
What do you think of the fertilizer from dennerle, v30 used together with liquid carbon?
In my tank the key feature about alge was a lightning system.
I had a real problem with alge. I bought a expensive lightning system, but... without regulation of light intensive, so alge had a good environment for growing. After that I bought a small, cheap light regullator (cable). All alge problems gone :)
For months I thought high nutrient levels were the main cause of algea in my planted tank. But after getting an accurate reading in the local fish shop they told me my suspended nutrients are basicly 0, especially the nitrates. After that I lowered the lights photoperiod and I bought a dimmer to bring it back to 60% intensity and let the floating plants cover the majority of the surface. I greatly expanded my clean-up crew with otocs, baby bristlenose, yellow neocaridina shrimp and a bunch of ramshorn snails. And yet the green hair algea still covers pretty much every plant leave, and square milimeter of hard substrate.
Maybe I just need to be more patient to see the algea disapear, but I feel like I've exhausted al my options at this point. Even using an all purpose algea killer didn't even make a dent in the desity of the algea.
Question.. Would two 30 watt flood lights be too much light for a 40 gallon breeder tank? I raised the lights away from the top. Yet that BBA is a pain. What other type of lighting you suggest? They are easy low maintenance plants with Platy fish.
Would I need these test kits to find balance? Which ones?
road to 100k subscribers for sure
What are you going to make of the big shallow?
BBA is very stubborn to remove it..suggest me good method to remove it and also suggest good crew for this?
Hello , what is the black stuff you put on the tank ?
I live in Canada so the name would be appreciated thank you . Great content
Hi there, I feel like they subject you left out is RO water and the effect that it has. Ofcourse you are doing a test with RO right now, but I am still wondering what your overall view is about RO in relation to algae.
Hmmm, I came to leave my comment and it says 31 Comments but shows none !
You can reduce the fertiliser boom a lot by mixing gravel with your soil pellets.
Many plants will be happier with such a mix.
When are you going to get some newts ?
You've missed the breeding season but plan on doing it next year, you only need common wild newts.
After they've spawned you can release them but seeing them swim with breeding season colouration and 'finnage'
is really wow.
Especially courtship displays.
The young 'tadpoles' are really weird like axolotls.
It will make great footage and entertain your viewers a lot.
You know the boring thing that you mention at 3:14?
That would be very interesting to listen to.
It won't necessarily be critics-free, since it is a complex topic and there are many combative schools of thought, but it could be an interesting point of view to understand what is your process to find the equilibrium
hello, I want to ask you concretely how can I eliminate the gda algae, I simply don't know what to do anymore, I reduced the light, the same fertilizing, however until the end of the lighting program it settles on the glass, the new one is put and on plants.
What test kit do you use?
"This is Click Bait" Not at all... This and all your videos are always helpful/enjoyable... Keep click baiting it's what the internet really loves... Good work MJ!!!
Thanks for that!
Where did you get the unit from behind you?
Can you tell us the plants you have in the tank at 6:30 time frame plz
What's the carpet plant in the second tank?
Does anyone talks about how fast/ strong the flow of the filter should be?
i was having trouble with brown algae, i didnt even have plants in my tank. It turns out i had my light on to long, i lowered it to 6 hours a day and that solved the issue. I added plants to my tank now, i noticed that they are lacking in nutrients. im looking at adding fertilizer but im paranoid ill get algae.
What is your photoperiod of light?
spirogyra pls.. and make a video with kh ph relation.🥰
I was fighting algae for years and the only think that I was missing to achieve balance was potassium and a lot of it. I do not understand why all complete liquid fertilizers contain so little of potassium. There are no good tests for potassium and nobody measures it, so many people thinks it is not that important. But in fact it is super critical.
14:45 why are the Java ferns so small? What species is it?
Great video MJ!
Could you also provide the link to your shelf? I am currently looking for one and have a hard time finding one supporting the weight of several nano tanks… =\
This is the one www.leenbakker.nl/kasten/wandkasten/wandmeubel-kyan-zwart-naturel-180x120x40-cm
@@MJAquascaping Thank you so much for replying! :) Very much appreciated!
Are you using heaters, especially in the aquariums with live stock? And which heaters you use?
I only have heaters in the bigger tanks, and they are built in the filters
Is de fosfaat niet te hoog? Mijn fosfaat is zeer hoog (jbl druppeltest) en ik begreep dat dit BBA in de hand werkt. Mijn tank is low tech. Ik heb geprobeerd fosfaat drastisch omlaag te brengen maar het komt snel weer op te hoog nivo dus weet niet goed wat ik ertegen kan doen.
Having heavily stocked tanks, as most people do, also contributes to algae due to too many nutrients.
I have some algea from time to time in my betta tank, and I don’t know if it’s possible to eliminate it in that heat, it’s 26,5 degrees in there and with minimal flow from the filter. He eats full grown shrimp, snails and attacks me when feeding him so I can’t have any clean up crew there. He gets mad when I enter his room so it’s intense hatred going on. So my best tip, only get calm and non-aggressive fish if you don’t want algae 😂
Sounds like a real joy 😂
Hi "MJ" LOVE from India..I would like to come and visit you personally and learn lot things...
can you tell us names of the plants you used in both aquariums?
or at least smallest ones that you used for the carpet
Geez, im trying to get more algea. My nerites and otos are jonesing for some green stuff
Hi nice video but tom Barr different think because low fertilizer more algea ,more fertilizer use no algae.
Yo fam,been watching your vids lately and the have me thinking about trying the aquascaping and I was wondering if I could just use a regular pump instead of CO² ? Or could it be done without CO² or Pump?my child Is touchy and I wouldn't want her messing with it....I saw some other setups where it's just sand and stone that does filtration for the tank, lemme know.
Yeah man it can definitely be done without CO2! But if you are a beginner I would suggest to use a filter, just a simple internal filter is fine. Check out the video I released last week about the Barber tank. That could be a good first setup for you!
@@MJAquascaping should I let the tank wait a week too before adding fishes or shrimp.
leuke video's net nieuw hier dus rustig aan ff bekijken. Allemaal Chihiros verlichting?
Voornamelijk Chihiros en Twinstar!
Hey, i was wondering what test kit you're using. It looks a lot more reliable then teststrips
Test kit is from Sera!
@@MJAquascaping great thanks!
How come you have no green spot algae in the tanks with high phosphates? My tank has phosphates on the higher side and GSA keeps appearing on my plants and filter (dark algae, flush with the surface, impossible to remove) I'm currently trying some filter media to lower the phosphates but no big change yet. I have no co2 and my plants are simple but grow well.. the gsa is the only thing i can't figure out yet
Not completely sure but I think it's a combination of things
1. Yes the phosphate is a bit high, but not high enough to cause problems like over 3 mg/l
2. Green algae also needs Nitrate, and because that's not available the Phosphate is not really harmful.
3. The aquasoil also helps because it's sort of stabilizing the phosphate level, if you add too much the soil will absorb it, and if there's not enough the soil will release it.
@@MJAquascaping Hm, I have low Nitrates as well, maybe I'll try adding more substrate and more potassium to see if the balance changes.. Thank you for the reply! Your videos are really cool and informative.
нормуль раскидал. всё понятно, спасибо)
My tank currently looks like the left one on the thumbnail 😅🤣 I got a huge phosphate problem and a month ago bought some Phosguard for my filter. Good thing is, diatoms seem to have slow down alot since then but my Phosphate level is still at 1.5-2 (was 5+ before Phosguard) I'm using dirt so I think it might be the problem unfortunately. Regarding diatoms I got a question. My phosphate was so bad that my plants are all brown, except the new leafs. I was wondering if the brown could go away at some point or my plants are doomed?
The brown will definitely go away after a few weeks! Some otocinclus will definitely speed it up!
@@MJAquascaping that's good to hear! Is 1.5 phosphate still too high though? I've read often that it should be under 1
Heel leerzaam!, even een vraagje als je een nieuw aquarium opstart met veel nieuwe aquasoil hoe ziet je verversingsschema er dan uit? Elke dag 50% verversen en de tweede week om de dag of hoe anders?
Dankjewel
Is een beetje afhankelijk van welk merk je gebruikt, maar inderdaad bij de meeste bekende merken (Tropica, ADA, Aquario) doe ik elke dag in de 1e week om de dag in de 2e week etc
@@MJAquascaping ik heb scaperssoil van dennerle bedankt voor de tip!
@@MJAquascaping en hoelang houdt je je verlichting aan bij t indraaien? Steeds meer per week?
11:50 "more oxygen means less co2" thats incorrect. First of all oxygen and co2 levels are not connected to each other, u can have high oxygen and high co2 levels present at the same time. (e.g. injecting high amounts of co2 with high lights -> plants will start pearling which is a sign that the water is saturated with oxygen)
secondly, as you are not injecting co2 in that tank: lets say co2 levels in the air are at around 5 ppm. via the surface of the water it releases or absorbs its co2 to match the co2 levels of the air surrounding it. plants will consume that little co2 that is soluted in the water, thus moving air into the tank will actually keep co2 levels closer to the level of the surrounding air than not moving the surface, resulting in a higher level of co2 with agitation of water.
correct my if im wrong
cheers!
Easy way to control Algae. Reduce three factor. Light, Nutrients and Water Movement. No need to get technical.
What floating plants are those in the blue shrimp tank?
Salvinia!
@@MJAquascaping Really? The leaves seem so smooth, very unlike my salvinia 😅