RS 660 | DYNO RUN | SURPRISING RESULTS
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- I was curious to see what is the horsepower on the RS 660, after installing the SC Project CRT exhaust, an UpMap with Gabro's map and a DNA air filter. I was surprised to say the least.
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It's using SAE correction. (Top right) that correction factor produces the lowest number of all the different CF's. If in DIN or STD you'd have 90-93hp approx.
Very true! Thanks for your input. ✌️
Just lovely hearing the pops on the Dyno, again great vid mike👍😉
Thanks brother! Gotta love those pops 👌
Take the dyno "stock" vs. "restoration" (gains) on the same day as measurements. Also correction factor on dynos should be "SAE" rather than other operators using "STD" correction factor.
100 horsepower is what Aprilia advertises. Take the ~12% drivetrain losses on the typical chain drive motorcycle and you have 88 wheel horsepower.
You can also work toward reducing frictional losses on your bike and pick up a couple horsepower. There's high tech lubricants and 0w oils that will achieve that. If you want to push the power around on the dyno map, velocity stacks might do that, but they don't "gain" power, but rather move it. You'll lose power in the middle and gain it on the top. If that's what you need on the track, it's probably worth it. If you ride highways most of the time, you'll be disappointed in the middle-range losses. Velocity stacks, simply put, change the timing of the intake pulse wave to make certain air velocity more efficient at a given RPM. But by so doing, the air flow becomes less efficient at 'other' rpm. This is why Yamaha designed their YCC-T 2-position velocity stack to make the intake more efficient on average than a fixed unit. Now chances are, the stock Aprilia velocity stack might be less efficient over all than an aftermarket unit (you'd have to research) which could free up additional power without losses. Some bikes do that (the 3rd Gen Hayabusa for instance), due to meeting emissions and noise regs honestly.
Also, Aprilia is not using the same brand ECU as Japanese bikes usually use. You run into the problem of tuning companies investing the R&D ($$$$$) into a given bike model to crack the ECU, to be able to change restrictive parameters and make your throttlebodies function without the choking (if the RS660 has 2 throttlebody butterflies), or ignition maps hampering ultimate power. There's a lot of Japanese ECU flashes on the market because the investment has been made with tuning companies and the electronic architecture is about the same in many of them. I know for popular models like the Tuono V4 and Ducati Panigale and BMW S1000RR and KTM 1290 Super Duke R, there's ECU flashes. But for less common and less popular models you might run into the issue of no ECU flashes available and have to simply run piggyback modules (Powercommander for example) which only go as far as modifying fueling and ignition curves and cannot do anything about secondary throttlebody butterflies closing down, radiator fan temps, per-gear throttle-by-wire restrictions, throttle maps for modes, quickshifter dwell times, speed restrictions, or much of anything else that an ECU flash accesses.
Ofcourse all dynos read differently…who cares about the number as long as the bike runs well.
Very true. Numbers don’t mean much. They’re only a reference point for future upgrades and tunes. The bike runs perfect.
By this logic, what's the point of a tune if the bike runs well in stock form?
The rs660 is slow as fk. I have one
Thanks for showing the numbers!
You’re welcome! ✌️
It seems to run with a little lean air/fuel mixture. Probably with such an open exhaust and air filter you need to work also on the ECU.
The ECU has an upmap with Gabros map. I wouldn’t call those readings too lean. On average they are below 14 except between 6200-6800 rpm that goes to 14.3 max. Still below 14.7
I agree- it's too lean for power and tq. You can also see it breaking up at higher RPM- never trust smoothing 5. At most smooth to 3. And a good tune can run no smoothing.
in the graph are shown 2 runs, the one with lower power reading and the leaner AFR probably is the first cleanup run. The "good" one is the other. And trust me is a very good AFR plot for being a canned tune done from the other side of the world (by me :P )
@@gabroracing Thanks Gabriel for your input! I had the same thought, and its good to have you corroborate it. I believe your map did a pretty damn good job considering that its not mapped for the CRT. I have no complaints. I just wish I had dyno it stock to have a base reference number.
Nice to see. I know this hp figure is at the wheel and different dynos show differently. You could possibly go to Turbo Joe in the valley to compare Jared's dyno. I have rode 3 of these RS660s on track and raced one, and this sounds about right to me. Looks like the computer was fixing the air/fuel problem after the first run. I have done essentially the same mods to my street version of this bike but Gabro's Upmap did not give me access to the map with the velocity stacks from a different manufacturer. Biggest difference I felt was a little more power at the low to mid range but that's without data.
I just ordered Gabros velocity stacks and I will install them as soon as they come, and update the map with Gabros velocity stacks map. I’ll post a video. ✌️
Do you have to pay for another map? When you install the velocity stacks?@@ALFAVITAGA
@@emang6284 No. the stacks come with a coupon code that you use during checkout when you order the new map.
I never dyno my RS 660 but: I have aprilia MIA and the app show me that I never go up more that about 82 HP, so ... the mods you did, gave you about 10% more performance. Thats as close for a base line I can give you from my own expirience.
Thats good to know. I have the MIA installed but I have only used it for lean angle, throttle and braking data. I’ll check it out ✌️
@@ALFAVITAGA Maybe you can track some data back from back before you installed the exhaust and map, and see how that looks like when you compare it.
Can I ask you few questions?
How far are you going at max for your lean angles on street? I just can't pass 36 degree... I know it's not the bike, I but coming off off a naked, this leaning angles feeling quite extreem to me.
What tire pressures are you using for street use? I go 2.3 bar front, and 2.4 bar back. Maybe I should go 2.6 , 2.6 as the manufacturer say.
@@Notoxic30 Good questions. First of all you don’t have to “chase” lean angles. Chasing lean angles can get you on a slide or worst, a high side. Use the MIA to monitor lean angle as reference. Which means if you read 36 degrees, you have plenty of lean angle to go. I would say for the street, under good conditions (clean asphalt, warm tires, dry road) you are safe to be around 40-45 degrees. But lean angle is dependent on body position. The more you hang off the bike the less the lean angle. My MIA has read 52 degrees on the street. But that reading was on a downhill, that affects pitch axis resulting on exaggerated roll axis(lean angle) numbers. On a leveled turn my max on the street is 49 degrees. Regarding correct tire pressure, it depends on many factors. Your weight and style of riding are one of those. I don’t usually do bars, I prefer PSI so I will refer to PSI. My bike stock came at around 42psi rear/36front. With this over inflated tire pressure, I couldn’t pass 45 degrees lean on the street as I was starting to lose traction. I dropped my tire pressure to 34/34psi and I had better grip. I prefer to use even pressure on both tires. Unless on the track were rear tire pressure is dropped lower than the front. So at 34 even I had good traction but it was not ideal. So I started to drop pressure gradually until I found my sweet spot which is 28psi(1.93 bar) even. Now remember, with gear I weigh about 195lbs. Another thing to remember is that depending on how hard you ride, the tire pressure will increase. The way I ride, I increase tire pressure about 4-5psi. So the 28psi becomes 32-33psi warm. With these tire pressures I am more comfortable leaning more but I also decreased my lean angle with better body position. Remember the less lean angle the faster you can take the turn. For instance the same turns I took with 49 degrees lean angle, I now take them with 45 degrees and faster due to hanging off the bike more. There was a time were my max lean was 30 degrees. So don’t overthink it. Fear keeps you from leaning more but fear is an indicator that you should take it slow. Work on it slow, and I strongly recommend taking some classes. If you were in Los Angles or Arizona I would recommend a great coach.
@@ALFAVITAGA dude than you so much for all this information abd the time to answer my questions.
I started to fall in love with Aprilia Rs660 😍 gonna trade in my Fz09 🤣 I'm getting tired riding a street bike because i prefer riding on sports position bikes.. after watching this video..I subscribed to your Channel bro ✌️
Thank you brother! You will love the way the RS660 rides. Its a dream. ✌️
@@ALFAVITAGA you are mostly welcome brother ! ☺️ Thanks for the video 😄👍
😂 I just traded in my Fz09 today for a Rs660 no regrets except for wheeling all day
It’s a freaking fun day all day bike! Congrats! ✌️
Velocity stacks only move the power around at certain RPM's and not making more power isn't it, that's what I heard from people that are doing/ installing it not because I personally know it or doing testing myself.
Look I’m not expecting the stacks to transform the bike. If I install them I’m sure I’ll probably wont “feel” the difference. But on the dyno graphs it shows that with a stock exhaust it improves torque on mid to high rpm and increases HP a bit on higher rpm. Which I’m assuming the same numbers will increase with the SC exhaust. Its a 660. You cant expect much out of it. But every little bit matters when racing.
Oh wow!!thanks for sharing!
Handlebar ? Amazing !
Woodcraft triple clamp and Bonamici clip ons. Best handlebars in my opinion.
Congratulations bro🎉
Considering Aprilia claims 93hp and 100 hp for the Factory version...not sure if that's wheel or crank they don't specify which usually means....at the crank... So being you're that close to claimed crank hp is pretty darn good!
So for the RS660 its 100hp claimed at the crank. At the wheel you would expect around 93. But those numbers mean nothing, because it all depends on the correction factor that the dyno is set. Usually from what I’ve seen in Europe they don’t really use SAE correction. And that 93 claimed is not on SAE. SAE produces the least amount of HP. All that means nothing though, as the most important part of the dyno is comparing the base line numbers to the ones after the upgrade. Which I didn’t have. In a way it makes my dyno run pointless as I don’t have the stock number dyno to set as a baseline. I bet if I would have dyno it before the upgrades, it would be under 85hp.
Please pull the mods off and do a baseline dyno! Then a dyno with everything and the velocity stacks. I know, pain in the ass, and $$$, but this will really spell out what these mods really do to the rs660. Awesome videos!!!
Thank you! I have thought of that! Its actually more about the pain than it is about the $$$. Plus I would have to buy an evap canister bypass since I removed the canister and by installing the stock map it would give me a check engine light. I’ll have to think about it. I may just do it. ✌️
@@ALFAVITAGA yeah I totally understand, but you work quick. Plus you get an airbox mount in the jetprime evap bypass kit. So you can toss the stock canister mount. Weight reduction. 🤣
@@dj0100 😂😂 You had me at weight reduction 😂😂
I’m sure your stock number is on this dyno would probably be around 80 hp (at the wheel) I would guess with the mods your bike is probably making another 8 hp or so which would put it right where it’s supposed to be. different dynos give many different results. All that matters with any of them is you want to start with a base run and then after mods on the very same dyno whichever one you choose. The difference is the true number regardless of what the max number is. The max number will be different every place you go, but the difference between stock and mod will be the true number. And also, if you get velocity stacks they will make no difference on a dyno run as you have to be moving for them to create the ram affect.
True and true. In retrospect I wish I had a baseline. But hey.. I could always remove all the bolt ons and install back the stock map and dyno it to find out lol 😛
@@ALFAVITAGA now that would be dedication lol
@@Antmanmoto 😛
Just be aware that not all dynos are created the same. There can be as much as a 5% difference between dynos. Dynos are great for tuning because the error wont matter to the tune. Either it makes better power or it doesn't, but as a measure of power, they aren't super accurate...especially wheel dynos.
True! All that matters is the reference on base numbers compared to tuned numbers. ✌️
The CRT exhaust is hurting you for sure. The type of Dyno and operator all come into play. My Sponsor, Robs Dyno Service, uses a Dynostar Dyno. He is very meticulous about calibrations and having the correct environmental conditions entered in the system. I have the Hindle Exhaust and the Aprilia Race ECU. Unfortunately my clutch switch was screwed up so it would only rev to 9k. At 9k it was making 82.5 hp and 49.6 tq . The HP was still on a pretty steep climb but the tq was just starting to fall off . I'll share when we get a chance to do a full run on it. I have a video showing the run on my Channel.
The CRT definitely hurts it. It would perform better with an SC1-R. Every dyno will read different. The problem is I didn’t dyno it at the same dyno while stock, so I can have a baseline to compare. So essentially these numbers mean nothing. Unless I dyno it again with the new map I installed with velocity stacks just to compare.
@@ALFAVITAGA The only numbers I really care about are the AFR and trying to keep that line as straight as possible around the 13.0 mark. The HP and TQ I only care that they are also smooth, the actual numbers I dont even care about. Looking for numbers even on the same dyno is a pretty deep rabbit hole LOL. I have seen numbers vary as much as 5% from a Monday run to a Friday run on the same Dyno. Unless you are measuring air density, barometric pressures and the like its a moving target. Keep up the great videos !!
@@388racing9 Thanks! You too! ✌️
You also have to take into consideration that US fuels highest octane is 93 RON in Australia we have 95 RON and 98 RON
@@ruben1966cexi You are right about the fuel. But fuel in the US is a bit more complicated. The way they measure fuel here is by getting the average of the addition of both RON and MON and they name the result PON (Pump Octane Number). The highest PON we can get on conventional gas stations here is PON 91. 91PON= 95RON+ 87MON/2. So the highest octane used in the US and the one I used for this dyno, is 95 Octane RON. In Greece, where I’m from, we have up to 100 Octane RON. Now that gas would make a difference for sure just like 98 would 👌
What was the base dyno numbers stock for your bike? It’s all about YOUR bike getting results from your mods. And stick to the same dyno on days of similar temp/barometric pressure.
Thats the problem. I don’t have baseline dyno numbers from MY bike. I rushed to mod it and I wasn’t planning to dyno it. Oh well..
You need a new mapping for the airfilter and exhaust system to see a diffrence. Stock mapping, stock power..
I don’t have stock map. I have Upmap with Gabro’s map.
Brother, but once you tuned the bike, did you notice any difference as far as flat spots being gone? Better acceleration?
To be honest I never noticed a flat spot before the tune. But then again I kept it on low rpm while breaking it in and then I went straight to tuning it. But no flat spot with the tune. Slightly better acceleration too.
@ALFAVITAGA...Hey brother, if you could go back in time would you still buy the RS 660? I am supposed to go sign paperwork for a 2024 RS 660 on Friday....I'm starting to get cold feet as i've seen and read a lot of issues with oil leaks on these bikes. Can you offer any insight?
The RS660 was my first bike and I decided to choose this bike after multiple weeks of research and advice from other experienced riders. I believe that the choice of first bike is crucial in a new riders development as a rider. The RS660 shaped who I am as a rider today. It is true when they say that as a new rider it’s almost a fact that you will go down and ruin your bike. I had a few close calls and mistakes a couple months into riding, and the bikes electronics saved me. One was an ABS intervention and the other was a traction control intervention. Going down as a new rider can be detrimental to your future riding as it can cause the rider to quit riding. The RS660 did the opposite to me. Not only did it save me from going down, but it also gave me the smoothest ride possible as everything about the bike feels high quality. The brakes are amazing, the seating position is extremely comfortable for a “supersport”, handling is perfect, and in general it’s such a joy to ride. It may not be the fastest but it sure has a lot of torque on low and mid end that makes it even funner to ride. So with the above in mind, I would absolutely buy it again if I turned back time. Zero regrets. Now would I buy it again today? Probably not, as for me the RSV4 is a different beast that I just can’t substitute. But it all depends on the riders needs. Variables like, do you have an Aprilia dealer close to you? Are you planning to commute with it? Are you planning on tracking it or racing it? Aprilias are a little bit more predisposed to warranty claims compared to Japanese bikes. Thats why I would not use an RS660 to commute and add a lot of miles on it. Not that it cannot handle a lot miles, but I’d rather not add miles on a bike that the valve adjustment is at 12000 miles instead of 24000 miles that a Japanese bike is. There are so many variables that can determine if someone should buy an RS660 or not, but at the end of the day Italian bikes are meant to give you smiles. And the RS660 will definitely do that for you.
That is high numbers for a 660 twin 😊
It produced higher after the velocity stacks on my second dyno video ✌️
So would you recommend the ecu flash? Or is the difference to little?
I recommend it if you want to get everything out of your bike. It helps a lot with the flat spot on mid rpm and it just operates better. ✌️
Did you notice a difference when you installed the upmap??? I actually notice my bike to be even slower than stock for some reason after filter exhaust and upmap 😭
I noticed the bike to have more torque at low and mid rpm but not exactly “faster”. If it is faster its not enough to feel it, you would only see it in numbers. What exhaust and map did you go with?
@@ALFAVITAGA well i have a ducati hypermotard 939 actually, but i figure since we are using upmap it would be the same results, y have bmc air filter, HP corse exhaust and the map from UPMAP.. i heard that the ecu adapt the power progressively over time because when i installed it actually was slower everywhere now is getting more power mid range but dies at highs and less top speed. I just install it yesterday. Factory top speed was 140 now 136 and all hypermotard after upmap runs 150 so i dont know im still testing
@@galampan4648 I can’t find the map in the Upmap for the Hypermotard 939 with the HP Corse exhaust. All I see is maps for the Arrow and Termignoni exhausts. I’m assuming you went with one of these? Did you choose the right map?
Could be altitude /humidity or one of a dozen other reasons especially when chasing 1-2 hp on an n/a engine that ur not around the other bikes
Turns out they’re pretty normal results. 👌✌️
Your fuel looks a bit off, looks a bit lean at top end? Was your ECU reflashed?
Yes it was. I used an Upmap and reflashed it with Gabro’s map.
@@ALFAVITAGA Looks to lean at top end for air filter and exhaust used. I've seen same bike/filter/exhaust make 99 HP at rear wheel on accurate dyno's. I think tune is holding you back. Air fuel ratio should be a near straight line all the way to rev limiter, not go lean, not have dips and valleys. Need map for your specific combo, if the one you have was supposed to be then bad map.
@@richardminer1863 There is no RS660 that makes 99hp at the wheel on SAE correction dyno on just a tune/filter/exhaust. It is physically impossible. The fastest racetrack RS660 that I have heard of has near that number with thousands of dollars spent on it. I think Gabros RS660 had +13 HP at the rear wheel. I don’t know what the base line for Gabros RS660 was, but knowing that RS660s stock makes around 85-87 HP at the wheel then it would make sense that his bike would be around or near 99HP at the wheel. Now regarding the lean AFR I can’t say much. Maybe @GabroRacingTeam can have a say on this subject.
Is it worth though? For another 1 or 2 hp maybe? Here where I live Dyno is so expensive, if I want to run the dyno on my Rs660 it would cost me 5k+ (25% of the bike). For me as a non racer, it’s not worth, but for others, it may be.
Is it worth what? To dyno it? Or to change exhaust-map-filter? If you are referring to dyno, then it all depends. If you are racing your bike you have no choice but to dyno it as the dyno is the only way that it will give you the stats to tune the maps air/fuel ratio. If you are not racing you don’t have to dyno it. You can just install an upmap like I did with a fixed map. And thats only if you change the exhaust as it will affect air/fuel ratio. RS660’s run very lean as is, due to Euro5. Now is the exhaust-map-filter cost worth the power upgrade? That also depends on you. This is a street bike for me so its not even the power upgrade that I care for. Its the sound upgrade that is worth every penny.
@@ALFAVITAGA , sorry, yes, I was referring to dyno. Yes, you are right. If I’m racing, yes, I need to squeeze as much I can from the bike, which isn’t my case. Just to have an idea, how much does it cost to get it dyno where you live?
@@mrridernz It depends on what you want out of the dyno run. I’ve seen numbers as low as $80 for just some baseline dyno pulls, up to $500 when tuning is requested. For what I did it was $125. For the most part it depends on how much the labor hour is. In LA labor hour varies from $100 to $150.
Do you have to use race ecu to tune the bike or can you use the stock ecu?
Due to Euro5 these bikes run stock very lean in air/fuel ratio. Removing the catalytic converter, adding a full race exhaust system and a race air filter will make the bike run even leaner. For that reason, a tune is required to adjust the air/fuel ratio.
@@ALFAVITAGA what I mean is can you tune the bike using the stock ECU? Or do you have to upgrade to race ECU to be able to do that?
@@rexile1986 Ok I see what you mean now. The stock ECU is locked and can’t be tuned. I haven’t heard of anyone unlocking the RS660 stock ECU. I haven’t even heard of an unwritten ECU for the RS660. The only 3 options I know specifically for the RS660 is an Upmap that I installed, a race ECU and a Power Commander.
@@ALFAVITAGA Roger, Thank you very much, which of those 3 option should I go for if I don’t want to void the warranty of the bike?
@@rexile1986 Both the Upmap and the Race ECU technically voids warranty. But that depends on your dealer and whether Aprilia requests a map scan from them on a warranty claim. If Aprilia doesn’t request a map log then you should be fine. If they do and see the tune they can refuse the warranty. But that also depends on what country you live in. In the USA there is the Magnuson-Moss Act that protects the consumer from purchasing aftermarket parts. In other words Aprilia would have to prove that the tune ruined your bike. Often times companies don’t want to go through court to battle that and they will just honor the warranty. Again thats valid in the USA. I don’t know about other countries. The Power Commander supposedly is not logged in the stock ECU when installed. If that’s true then the Power Comander would be the safest choice. But its much more complicated to install and you will need a dyno to set the air/fuel ratio. In the end it will cost more compared to an Upmap that you just plug in and set the map with your phone in 30 minutes.
would be making more power if the air fuel ration wasnt all over the place
I’m not an expert on reading AFR so I don’t know if its all over the place, but this is a fixed map and can’t be changed. Maybe when I upgrade the map with the Gabro stacks.
in the graph are shown 2 runs, the one with lower power reading and the leaner AFR probably is the first cleanup run. The "good" one is the other. And trust me is a very good AFR plot for being a canned tune done from the other side of the world (by me :P )
The exhaust is hurting you as well as the AF mix. If they can tune it on the Dyno you will always be better than any provided tune. I'll try to let you know when I finish my race bike build and get it dyno tuned.
Tuning it on the dyno would be a better option than a canned tune. The CRT is not the best option either. An SC1-R would be a better choice. But I am planning on deleting the EGR. That could potentially provide better AFR readings. Who knows maybe in the future I will try tuning it on the dyno.
@@ALFAVITAGA Yes do the PAIR Delete, gives a much more accurate reading on the AF . I am using the Jetprime kit for that.
@@MSGRetired Yup. I’m going with the Jetprime too ✌️
@@ALFAVITAGA Check out my Racing channel at @388racing I will be doing a full video series on the race bike build when it starts. I also have some racing stuff and other Motorcycle related content
What octane fuel were you using?
93 MON (Motor Octane Number)
@@ALFAVITAGA Thanks for the reply. Too many people using junk fuel these days, but 93 MON should be better than the 99 RON we use here in the UK.
So what was the gain of stock vs bolt on and tune ?
Unfortunately I didn’t have a baseline dyno of my bike to get the stock numbers. But its expected to gain around 5whp
How much doe exotica charge for a dyno
@@ivanramos70 I don’t remember exactly. Just over a hundred bucks.
That SC can is killing you. With such an open exhaust the gas wave has nothing to rebound off of. You end up killing your volumetric efficiency especially the bottom end. You have to find that sweet spot.
Actually I have a second dyno video with the CRT and the SC1-R on the same day, and the CRT outperformed the SC1-R on the graph but not the total Whp. So it proved that the open can is not killing it. I know a guy that races and won titles with the CRT and not with the SC1-R and he never had any issues. But it’s not always about the dyno graphs but it’s also how the bike feels. I prefer the SC1-R as it feels more linear and responsive compared to the CRT. So for racing I would choose the SC1-R, but for the street CRT all day long for its insane sound. ✌️
Truthfully dyno readings mean jack shit. The ONLY thing that matters is the before and after results on that same dyno that same day. You made gains across the whole spectrum, thats all that matters.
I 100% agree. Unfortunately I don’t have a base line to compare. But to be honest, with such a small engine there are not much gains to make anyway. ✌️
What does your botty Dyno say to you does it feel faster ?
After I installed the exhaust and upmap, the wheelie control was kicking in more compared to stock. Which was an indication that it was accelerating harder resulting in lifting the front wheel more. I think the biggest difference that I felt was a smoother and more linear acceleration. And I can also say that the infamous flat spot is somewhat gone. At least I don’t feel it. So yeah my butt dyno approves lol.
What? I‘ve everything stock and have 94 HP at wheel
Different dynos read different. Also it depends on what correction factor you ran it. On SAE it will never give over 90whp.
that's 63 Nm of torque it's a lot...😯
With the velocity stacks and SC1-R it produced 66Nm. ruclips.net/video/g6VugkJ1DXQ/видео.html
This bike needa a good tune.
It’s tuned with Gabros map.
OuR dYnO iS mOrE AcCuRaTe sounds like a bunch of elitist BS to me but the bike sounds fantastic and appears to be running well so just go ride :)
To some degree that statement can be true but in reality it means nothing. Regardless of the result, all that matters is the difference in HP from baseline to upgrade. Which I don’t have. But this can be a baseline for future upgrades if I decide to make it a dedicated track bike. Bike runs flawlessly, so at the end of the day thats what matters. ✌️
😀😀😀
Cycle world dyno'd a stocker.
Unfortunately it still can’t be used as a base number. Different dyno, different RS660.
The correct thing they should have told you is look at your afr.. your tune is all out of wack modding without a tune way to lean. Less power in most cases
I don’t know why most people think its too lean. Its not. It is tuned with Gabro’s map.
@@ALFAVITAGA because your afr on the bottom shows it’s all out of wack.. that line should be on 13 and straight
@@mustanggang3889 I’ve seen stock RS660 dyno numbers and the AFR is not a straight line. Also this map is a canned map. You can’t expect perfection from it. But its better than running the stock map. Ideally, to get the best out of a map it must be tuned on the spot with a dedicated map. But I could care less about that, as a bit of a line up and down here and there means nothing on the street. I changed the map since this dyno and tuned it for velocity stacks. So the numbers are currently different plus I feel the power increase. It runs flawlessly and thats what matters most to me.
@@ALFAVITAGA by the aprilla race ecu and really feel the difference
@@mustanggang3889 I have it. It comes with the Upmap device that I installed. But after speaking with multiple people they all reported better results from Gabro’s map rather than the Aprilia race.
L' Aprilia ha i migliori ingegneri del mondo motociclistico, esce già ottimizzata di serie.
Con le personalizzazioni non si ottengono grossi miglioramenti.
Anzi, in alcuni casi le modifiche sono anche peggiorative.
Imparate a guidare prima di pensare ad avere più cavalli.
Unfortunately for bikes that are meant for the street, the “best engineers” of Aprilia do not optimize it as standard. They must meet Euro 5 emissions and that leads to diminished performance. Therefore adding every performance upgrade possible will help the bike perform better. And it does, as I have no flat spot anymore and acceleration has improved to the point that I can keep up with bigger bikes like Panigale V2’s. Now I’m not sure if your comment was translated improperly from French to English, but I do know how to ride and I’m not thinking about having more horses. I do enjoy the process of improving everything. Including engines and myself. ✌️
@@ALFAVITAGA è italiano, non francese. Puoi togliere le virgolette a best engineers.
Vero quello che dici della sciagurata normativa euro5 (possa terminare presto la truffa ambientalista), tuttavia le moto Aprilia escono già con un ottimo equilibrio ingegneristico.
Anche la tua modifica sui condotti su aspirazione e filtro dell'aria, nonostante la mappatura, sono stati peggiorativi su quasi tutta la curva di erogazione tranne agli alti regimi.
@@ZERODOSI Sorry, Italian. I didn’t read the original comment just the translation. Hopefully the environmental scam will end soon, but the map I have installed is designed by a great Italian engineer. I don’t have base dyno numbers to prove it on the graph but the bike does perform better than stock. I will do another dyno with the updated Gabros map that I installed with the velocity stacks. I have a feeling the graph will be even better.
@@ALFAVITAGA Gabro è un meccanico, non ingegnere 😆
Buon divertimento.
@@ZERODOSI He used to be an aeronautic technician. He may not be an engineer by title, but he engineers performance upgrades. A mechanic repairs. I think he is entitled a bit of an engineering credit.
It's just different dyno's, nothing more.
Different dyno’s and different corrections. 👍
I would not spent money on stacks etc with such a low baseline. The gains will not be worth it.
On the RS660, cost of parts to gains ratio is not worth it in general. Exhaust+Map+Filter can exceed $3000. And all for a couple of HP. If one just wants a faster bike then it would be cheaper to use that money towards a liter bike. But if you are racing in that category, then every single upgrade that could give you .2 of a second it can mean the difference between victory or loss. Me adding stacks will mean nothing on the street. But I’ll probably still do it for the channel.
@@ALFAVITAGA I concur, I use my S1krr M heavily at the track and will start using my R1M also.
@@grandtaino R1M 🔥❤️
Dude I think you got scammed. Their response to your question was also unprofessional. Who TF they are to tell if someone's ego is high? How about a thorough explanation of why is your rs660, with a full system pushing a stock HP? I don't know if they asked any other questions about your bike, but simply "we tune racing teams and if you don't like the number, go somewhere else" is not cutting it for me.
No scam here. The numbers are right on point. Different dynos rear different numbers thats all. Also the smoothing was on SAE. Here is another dyno that I did on standard smoothing: ruclips.net/video/g6VugkJ1DXQ/видео.html
@@ALFAVITAGA okay that looks more about right. Idk man, it's just that worker's response wasn't satisfying.
@@xinyuxue868 I know what you mean, but it was more of a rider to rider response rather than employee to customer response. I know them and they are cool dudes. They race Motoamerica and they are closer to being riders than being employees. So their responses are more raw compared to corporate filtered answers we get at big dealerships.
@@ALFAVITAGA I understand that, I also know a small business repair shop that also support moto america racers here in California. The name of the Racer is Alex Richi aka The Claw for junior league. But idk man, in my opinion, I would love to know more about my bike and understand why it's not producing the HP that I want. Just my opinion tho, but the second video u showed me, that's some impressive numbers.
@@xinyuxue868 No I hear you on that one. Thats why I did my own research and studying to understand dyno numbers better and how they are produced. Hence, the reason I also did a second dyno video. ✌️
hey mate, just wondering if the lams rs660 will be able to reach these same numbers as yours? if it was derestricted ofcourse
Yes you can reach the same numbers if you derestrict it. ✌️