Thanks for the detailed video. I am going to take the steps you outlined here on my wife's 2009 Scion xB. Over that past 5 or 6 weeks it has been almost impossible to get into gear. Have to double clutch it just to shift. Thanks again guys! Two thumbs up!!
Thank you so much for the video. It's so important as a woman to gain some knowledge about an issue before I bring my car to a shop. I now know a lot more about what to expect and how long this simple process actually takes.
Well done! You and your friend are the most articulate mechanics that I have ever heard. For the first time, I really understand how to bleed air from a hydraulic clutch system. I do not wish misfortune on anyone, but if you find that you must replace the slave cylinder, I will be most interested in hearing your descriptions. Got any videos on valve adjustments?
Thank you guys so much, not much of car guy. Thought I blew the clutch. Before I waited the four days to get into shop I watched this video and was able to bleed clutch with help of my wife, blew the air out and the pressure came back. This video was a life saver, thanks so much guys
I like the format of the video guys, well put together and straight to the point, well done! Also thanks for taking the time to post these kinds of videos up!
Thanks guys, gives me a starting point, As a kid I did clutch repairs myself, usually had parts left over, so it does not hurt to get a little refresher. Hope the truck does not need a clutch at abut 55,000 2010 Nissan Frontier PU, don't think it should yet.
thank you I have a 95 Ford Ranger with the same hydraulic clutch problem and that solves my problem because I have the same exact thing what you described happened to me earlier today going down the road I couldn't change gears and when I did it was hard as rock and my clutch is good thank you I appreciate these videos...very informative.....
Thank you so much for this video. It saved me a lot of money. See, I am not into cars at all and always takes it in for other people to have a look at my problem and pay them plenty to do sometimes stupid things. My car was having exactly the same issue as on your video and by following your video step by step, I could help myself and my car is back on the road. I only spend a few bucks to buy brake fluid. Thanks again. You are the best .
Great video! You guys should do more, the way its explained to us is perfect. My pedal is to the floor & i have a leak that collects and drips from oil pan. 2007 vw eos so a slave cylinder leak would be devastating. Going down to identify the leak, Stay up playas!!!!
that really helped out alot guys im finishing a project with a h22a in a 94 accord and replaced the slave and master cylinder and the clutch pedal is sticking the floor id apperiate for a commet back
Great video guys. I have a 2005 Renault Laguna. The clutch doesn't disengage (since 3 days ago).It started the symptoms slowly at first and then the following day the control gave up entirely. Almost certainly a hydraulic fail. Just started to investigate the problem with a view to repairing it and saving a bucketful of garage bills. My first concern is that the master cylinder attached to the pedal looks very awkward to get at and remove/replace if necessary. I will have a more serious attempt on it during the next few days, provided the West of Scotland winter weather does'nt prevent me. Have any of you guys done a similar repair on a Laguna, and is it feasible for someone like me with a fairly good history of car repairs ? (Recently overhauled my braking system)
Great info. My Toyota Corolla S cutch is starting to slip - even when I release the clutch, she's still going into gear. But 133,000 miles on one clutch is pretty good. Thanks for the video.
ponemark PI ended up replacing the whole she-bang. Clutches were wore slam out. Had a Mom and Pop shop do the work. She runs great now. Those Corolla S, 4 cyl engines are bullet proof.
I got a 2004 civic Sir I call rusty too, pedal is awful soft, I don't see any signs of leakage, master is full, I guess I'll try the bleedin too, thanks for the video!
Finally! A video that helps. I have a 97 Accord with the same problem - right now my clutch is sitting on the floor. Did you have to replace the slave, or after flushing everything does it work fine?
Yep, My 87 Jeep has a separate reservoir, while My 2004 SATURN has a shared clutch/brake reservoir... Jeep is in the 3rd clutch. (hose burned a hole thru killed the 2nd clutch) SATURN lasted 255000 miles on the 1st clutch ❤️👍 currently at 357000+ miles on the 2nd clutch. Today, Jeep clutch went to the floor while engine was hot... Then pump pump and the clutch woke up. That's what brought Me to this video.
Thanks - my clutch pedal seems very hard to push. Works but makes a creaking noise and very hard, despite me having strong legs. 243k miles on 2013 Accord coupe V6 - six speed. Any thoughts would be helpful. Thanks again. 😊
Thanks for posting. I find the emphasis on diagnosis is really important, often glossed over in some others' RUclips videos. Looking forward to a second video where you replace the slave cylinder. Have you fixed it yet?
Hey thanks for this video. Very helpful. Most videos are not clear at all. The guy doing it knows what going on but if someone trying to learn and can't see a thing, it won't help. So great job. I have a 07 Wrangler Rubicon that the clutch paddle is soft now, can't shift. But my brake fluid reservoir is not low...Do you think its still the slave cylinder having a leak?
I believe my 2004 VW GTI clutch cylinder is located inside the housing for the clutch and flywheel. The system seems to operate well, even thought it's 16 years old. However, I do plan on replacing the clutch and flywheel as preventative maintenance. Considering the location of the clutch cylinder and the difficult in reaching it, do you advise replacing it at the same time the clutch and flywheel are replaced? Additionally, how is this internally housed cylinder bled? Thanks for making this video.
great video well done guys...my clutch has gone I was driving and it gradually wore out and now my clutch has no pressure onit at all and i cannot get it in gear. I just wanted to know, do i need 2 replace my clutch or anything 2 fix the problem or can i do this bleed method and save some money?? thanks!!
Great video! Thanks. My problem seems to be unique...not sure. I recently had a problem where my clutch started rapidly getting softer and softer as I was driving it in town, and soon it just sat on the floor. I got it in gear long enough to get it home, and have had it parked. Today I went out to look at it to see if it was dripping on the interior side (haven't checked the slave cylinder yet), and when I grabbed the clutch with my hand and pulled it up, it sort of shot up halfway back into normal position. I thought nothing of it and figured it would stick to the floor if I pushed it again, but it didn't. I got in the car and pumped it with my foot, and it feels better than ever...and I'm so confused. I even backed the car out as I normally would have before the issue, and then drove it forward again in first (I wasn't able to do either of those smoothly at all last time I drove it). So yeah, there appears to be NO problem any longer, but of course, this is the worst situation cause I know dang well there was a problem before, and now it's not showing the issue. You recommend bleeding them still? I'll check the slave cylinder tomorrow, but thought I'd get on here and see if anyone had any ideas.
this is really late... but did you ever figure out the issue? i literally have the same problem going on right now.... and there is no damn way to can be the clutch cause i just got a new clutch done at the honda dealer.... but i am so scared its something to do with that.... shit was not cheap.... but my peddle is basically doing the same... it was stiff feeling... and then all of a sudden it would basically be paper thin and no grabbing all the way to almost the floor and then a slight grab at the end.... i noticed if i pumped my clutch several times though it would almost go back to being good again....
I'm working on my 96 Nissan maxima with the 3.0l v6 and as of now I replaced the clutch, master cylinder, and slave cylinder and the entire upper half of my clutch petal is dead and it grabs at the very bottom of the petal with no play whatsoever and I cant figure it out. I've blead all the lines, did an entire fluid flush, made sure all the air was out of the lines, and I still have half a dead petal. everyone I ask for help with it is at a loss and no one can figure it out. Thanks for making this video it definitely helped but I still cant figure it out.
I have a 1991 Plymouth Laser RS 145K miles on it, and since i bought the car a year ago i noticed when the clutch is engaged its makes a quick grinding sound when shifting gears, it usually does this grinding when the vehicle is driving in cold weather conditions. After watching your video it gave me the idea to try and bleed the clutch. Since ive been driving it i also noticed the fluid level has not moved since ever. Hopefully i didn't damage the clutch and more :/ any ideas???
@fairhare do you have any resistance on the clutch pedal or is it limp? yes, any hydraulic failure such as a leaky master cylinder or slave cylinder could cause the clutch to not disengage, but the pedal will go to the floor with no resistance. sometimes the clutch disc will rust to the flywheel if the vehicle has been sitting awhile, and the clutch pedal will feel as if everything is normal. if this doesnt help reply back with your year, make, and model, and we can figure this out. Willie B.
thanks for the video guys. I have 94 accord and have a same problem. question, I opened the bleeder when the person push down the clutch pedal a little bit of fluid came out. should I wait for a while to close the bleeder until the fluid comes out without stopping?
Great work and instruction guys, thanks. I have a problem with my gears - I have a 2006 Ford Fiesta, when I first start the car and pull away, the gear change is absolutely normal. But, when I drive for half an hour until the car is up to temperature, it becomes really difficult to change gears... I've heard that it could be the clutch, the gearbox, and the gear lever mechanism bushes... any diagnosis similar to this? Thanks again chaps.
It was the leverage, it needed greasing. It took a few goes to diagnose it though. It's all sorted now mate, thanks. Back to normal. Chaka Zulu - thanks, very helpful!
This was really great, really helped me understand more about the clutch, saved me miney, and easy job to do. Thanks for taking your time as well to make this video for people like me haha.
@Avenger77420 based on what you've replaced it sounds like you just have air in the system.. (double check the master/slave for any leaks etc. but if your not losing fluid it sounds like you just need to do a good system bleed. basically follow the steps we did to bleed in the video pump and open the slave bleeder screw then pump again..sometimes gravity bleeding works too. it may take a few tries but it sounds like you def have air in the system giving the spongy feel.
I was on an uphill ramp in 2nd gear at around 3.5k RPM then the RPMs shot up and the speed did nothing. Noticed a slight burn scent soon after for a minute then went away. But I heard you can test if your clutch is slipping by say going uphil and putting it into say 5th and stomping on gas (low speed) and if the rpms/engine bogs down (which it did) means the clutch is NOT slipping. Suggestions :)
I have a 1985 Chevy S10. Replaced slave cylinder, master cylinder and rubber hose. Bled system. No bubbles. Would shift ok at first then stop. Clutch pressure gone. Bled a couple more times. Same thing keeps happening. What do you think is wrong?
Hi Brian great vid, quick question I've got a 97 sti impreza I've noticed its starting to rev out a little in 5th gear now and then, also the clutch pedal is sitting half way to the floor all the time and it takes very little to engage it, could this be solved with bleeding or is the clutch slipping!!
Hi Brain, I am using Ford ikon 1.8 diesel Indian version. I have a clutch problem. the resistance on the pedal was nil while I was driving and I guessed that the clutch was worn out but after a day the clutch was working fine but again it had the same issue. I took it to my mechanic and he said the there was a leak in the tube as well as the master cylinder has to be replaced. after the replacement started I had to replace master and slave cylinders with the tubes which had leak and also the
Just had new cluch kit put in my 94 chevy silverado 5.7 liter 350 5 speed 2 years ago and I think I have a throw out bearning issue when clutch is is ingadge no rattling when letting clutch out ingear get a rattling sound and in nutral also ?? Is this a throw out bearing or a piolet bearing ?? And what would happen if ether one of these go out completely while driving??? And how much shop cost to have fixed??
I have a 2003 chevy s-10 5 speed manual. I recently replaced the clutch. Before I replaced it the clutch pedal had no pressure and I could not shift the gears while the truck was running. I was able to drive the truck again after replacing the clutch for about a week and now I'm having the same problem. Do you think it is the slave cylinder or something else? Thanks, Jessica
@jbarringer89 based on this info since you've replaced the clutch I would follow the steps in the video and check your hydraulic system for leaks. start by bleeding the slave cylinder first. I believe your truck has an internal slave but it should have an external bleeder screw.(check the master as well) When you pulled the clutch did you see any leaks? Something i've personally experienced was an internal slave failure which leaked fluid on my clutch causing me to need to replace both the slave
@autohowtovideos and the clutch as well (that fluid will ruin the disc). So start with a simple bleed procedure and check the system for leaks but if the system won't hold pressure and the master looks good I would suspect you need to replace that internal slave.
Good video! If you had an extra set of hands you could have someone point a flashlight at those locations in the engine. At 5 minutes in it looks like you do use a light, so thank you.
Brian, I have a question. I have a 1990 Honda Accord LX and the clutch is giving me some problems. I just had the master cylinder replaced a few months ago and today as I was making a turn I tried to shift down and the car wouldn't go into gear. I pulled over, and as I pressed the clutch in, it still wouldn't go into gear. We turned the car off and easily shifted all gears. I was told to replace the slave cylinder......Is that true and how do I know if I need a complete clutch replacement?
I need help with a 1999 SVT Cobra. the clutch pedal is pretty hard. I think it’s the new Clutch Kit that it got, but idk tbh. It’s kinda hard. Works perfectly fine. Can i loosen it up a bit or something?
@hotdream320 if the slave is leaking fluid from the boot or with the bleeder closed you def need to replace it.. be sure to also check your lines and master to make sure there are no other air/fluid leaks. once the new slave is on follow the bleed procedure (it might take quite a few tries) to build up pressure and you should be good to go
@50fordman can't remember off the top of my head if its an internal or external slave (i believe its internal) anyway it seems like you just need to bleed the air out of the system like we did in our clutch video. i've had several clutches on a lot of vehicles take a long time to bleed not as easy as brakes in most cases. A tip would be to crack the bleeder screw and let it stay open with out any pressure until you get a steady drip. Basically let gravity do its thing. hope this helps
I have a 2000 saab-93 and i have to pump the clutch 3 or 4 times to shift it in the next gear and sometimes it makes a loud sound when trying to put it in to gear. I have had the master and slave cylinder replaced and the clutch and pressure plate as well.
92 s10, (external slave too). clutch pedal is hard to push, not springy like a clutch should be. I've been told that is most likely the bearing. anyway, I seem to have a leak from the area where the slave cylinder bolts to the trans. I'm not ever low on fluid, but could the slave still leak? I seem to have a couple drips every time I look at the underside of the trans.
Thanks for making this video, my Mitsubishi lancer gsr turbo reves smoothy when parked but under hard acceleration it won't pass 5 or six thousand rpm. Sometimes in the morning the clutch pedal feels very soft and low to the floor. It usually builds back up while driving. Is this a sign of a tired clutch or leaky clutch hydrolics.up
Good video. Have a 1994 Toyota Tercel. My son is driving it and now the car goes into gear but have to rev the motor to get it to move forward. It slowly gets up to speed but on a hill, very slow to pick up. I'll check the slave cylinder first before deciding it's the clutch. Doesn't seem to grind at all when going into gear. Any thought?
Cliff Olney Sounds like the clutch has reached the end of its life. One more test you can do- get the car up to speed on level ground in top gear (like 55mph or more) and let off the gas pedal; if the engine speed drops straight away (it'll only be a couple of hundred rpm) without the car speed changing then the clutch is dead. You'll need a new clutch, get that fixed while the car can still be driven to the workshop.
I have a Chevy S-10 2003 double cab, brazilian made. Clutch keeps engaged at any speed and at any time, and when it happens I have to pump several times for it to suddenly release. I saw your video and found very useful to know how it works, but frankly I have no idea of what is going on. Any help is appreciated.
Idk if this was covered but could use the advise. 88 honda prelude 2.0. Clutch doesnt grab until almost all the way out, last 3 inches or so. And when Im driving and give it "more then normal" throttle the clutch slips. Bad clutch or air in the lines?
@zane2289 if the pedal actually feels soft or spongy it's a hydraulic issue, sometimes is difficult to get all the air out so you could open the bleeder am let it gravity bleed instead of the pressure method, make sure the master is only adjusted to a slight bit of end play, but not much more or less. See if you can watch the slave mice while someone else pushes the pedal and go from there
At almost 30k and my wrx clutch pedal is losing feel any tips? It just feels not as firm as usual. Especially after a few pulls. Update checked the fluid and its still full. It shares fluid with the brakes via a hose out of the bottom
pump the clutch pedal or slave cylinder itself? I've tried to bleed as you've wrote it and it seems not really working so, I checked the slave cylinder and it is leaking. so, I am trying to change the slave cylinder tomorrow. is there anything I should be careful about? thanks!
@tricky big tip everybody is to remember there are only a few components so it's a process of elimination bleed the clutch first and check the master,slave, and hoses for leaks first.. If that doesn't fix it them look at replacing a clutch.. Unfortunatley these are all wear and tear parts so every vehicle will need a clutch or two in it's life ;) hope this helps
@nyshadow clutch slip is basically when your clutch is engaging the transmission but there is a "slippage" for example imagine you let the clutch out and the engine rpm's climb without any forward motion or tire slippage.. all clutches will slip to a point as they only have so much grabbing power.. if you clutch is very worn you will notice it is not able to handle all the power from your engine and transfer that to your wheels..
Just replaced master and slave cylinder as well as ran new line between the 2 and I've bled and pumped and bled and pumped and I'm building no pressure whatsoever. Any tips?
@maverick2030 well we noticed the slave was leaking a fair amount and the master had a tiny leak.. after bleeding it worked fine but we should and i would recommend replacing them especially since the parts are pretty cheap and its easy to do..
Just bought a honda civic type s 1.8 2007. Clutch seems to be very stiff!!! Would bleeding it and changing clutch fluid solve the problem? How much would mechanic charge for this? Thanks!
my clutch pedal is hard to push. the pressure plate and clutch disk are already replaced still it becomes hard to push as the engine heats up.. the master cylinder is not leaking, the slave cylinder might be the problem because it leaks a little bit of fluid. does it make sense?
Hi. I am having issues with my 95 probe and my pedal is staying on the floor when I press it but I still am unable to shift into gear. I already bled the system and the fluids came out after a couple times of opening the bleeder. There are no leaks on any of the lines nor is there on the master or the slave. Should I replace them or could it be the Clutch or flywheels themselves causing my problem? It hasn't had any issues till today it went from shifting great to not at all today.
it just started last week on my 1985 Toyota corolla GTS, I have to pump it around 40 times to build up pressure to put in gear. it can lose pressure in like 10 seconds or sometimes it'll have pressure for like a while, does this sound like a air in the system issue or my slave cylinder is done?
Brain I have a 93 Honda Accord LX with clutch issues. When i shift it grinds into second and third, and driving home to park it i notice on the freeway as i was shifting i was not picking up speed but slowing down when i press the gas the RPM will race. After parking the car and went to move it this morning into the garage putting it into first gear the car want move at all now. All my fluids are intact and im not leaking any thing do i need to replace my whole clutch system now ?
I have a 2015 Ford Fiesta diesel manual, six speed after an hour of driving the car every night when pulling away in first gear and reverse the car starts to shudder I’m thinking must be something to do with heat in the clutch. Any ideas what this could be please thank you
@Avenger77420 yup if fluid is coming out of the rod on the master cylinder it needs to be replaced.. do that and don't forget to take note of the end play between the rod and the cylinder (basically its that bit of slack in your pedal) some times you have to adjust that a bit when you put a new one on. but once its replaced make sure you bleed it thoroughly and your all set! shouldnt take more than an hour or two and very basic tools
@nano60608 if your just learning your clutch could be getting a little hot and causing the loose pedal.. the fluid is brake/clutch fluid which is what we are using and bleeding in the video.. follow the bleeding steps we did if your clutch continues to feel loose and see if that helps..
I have a 1996 Ford Ranger Super Cab 4.0L. The clutch wasnt releasing, and i replaced the clutch assebly, and master cylinder, and bled the system but i still have no clutch. what do you think is the problem?
I have a '93 honda civic. This morning on my way to work, I was coasting up the freeway off ramp. When I pushed in the clutch and tried to bring the gear shifter out of 5th, it felt crunchy, and then wouldn't go into another gear. I tried all the other gears - reverse would grind the teeth. After shutting off the car, I decided to try wiggling the gear shifter around more in 5th. FInally, it popped out, and then I could shift normally again. Do you have troubleshooting tips? Thanks for the try Jhong. I flushed the system. Then it was better for a about a week. Then started grinding A LOT. I replaced the slave and master cylinders. Grinding changed, but still hard to shift and sounds like something is loose and rattling around. The disk?
@jhonea005 I would first check the master for any leaks or moisture then do a bleed on the system. Those fords have the internal slave I believe. ( my bronco had one too) watch out because if they leak that clutch will be toast really quick so see if you able to keep good pressure after a bleed. That fluid will eat the disk quickly if the slave is dripping.
Good explanantion, i had cluctch problem where cluctch started little hard and then sticking and then stopped working. every time i put leg on paddle and it came back. Mechanic did some manual bleed like you did in past but last time it appears same problem while i was climbing hill. i was in shock and worried that no support will be available in forest area but after few mins when i tried Cluctch startd working. Do you know why it suddenly started working. it didnt gave me problem till another 400 kms. do u know why problem happned and why it is solved automatically ? my car model hyundai i20 petrol. thanks in advance.
I have a 2011 Honda Civic. I tried rocking it out of ice by engaging and disengaging clutch. Unsuccessful. Now, I can't engage with the clutch at all. In any gear, I let the clutch out and the engine just revs. And, I left the car overnight on a slight hill, in first gear (no brake on) and, after the ice melted, it coasted backwards until it hit somebody's garbage bags. Could have been so much worse. What do you think the problem is? Clutch, a linkage, transmission, etc?
Thanks for the detailed video. I am going to take the steps you outlined here on my wife's 2009 Scion xB. Over that past 5 or 6 weeks it has been almost impossible to get into gear. Have to double clutch it just to shift.
Thanks again guys! Two thumbs up!!
Thank you so much for the video. It's so important as a woman to gain some knowledge about an issue before I bring my car to a shop. I now know a lot more about what to expect and how long this simple process actually takes.
Yep, 'cause every man knows everything about cars.....
Smart move . Not many ladies will have any interest in gaining knowledge about cars. Don’t let garages take advantage of you. Rock on
Well done! You and your friend are the most articulate mechanics that I have ever heard. For the first time, I really understand how to bleed air from a hydraulic clutch system. I do not wish misfortune on anyone, but if you find that you must replace the slave cylinder, I will be most interested in hearing your descriptions. Got any videos on valve adjustments?
Thank you guys so much, not much of car guy. Thought I blew the clutch. Before I waited the four days to get into shop I watched this video and was able to bleed clutch with help of my wife, blew the air out and the pressure came back. This video was a life saver, thanks so much guys
I like the format of the video guys, well put together and straight to the point, well done! Also thanks for taking the time to post these kinds of videos up!
Thanks guys, gives me a starting point, As a kid I did clutch repairs myself, usually had parts left over, so it does not hurt to get a little refresher. Hope the truck does not need a clutch at abut 55,000 2010 Nissan Frontier PU, don't think it should yet.
Wow! I was on my way to buy the clutch kit, but you said no! I am so happy. Thank you ever so much.
thank you I have a 95 Ford Ranger with the same hydraulic clutch problem and that solves my problem because I have the same exact thing what you described happened to me earlier today going down the road I couldn't change gears and when I did it was hard as rock and my clutch is good thank you I appreciate these videos...very informative.....
Thank you so much for this video. It saved me a lot of money. See, I am not into cars at all and always takes it in for other people to have a look at my problem and pay them plenty to do sometimes stupid things. My car was having exactly the same issue as on your video and by following your video step by step, I could help myself and my car is back on the road. I only spend a few bucks to buy brake fluid. Thanks again. You are the best .
Great video! You guys should do more, the way its explained to us is perfect. My pedal is to the floor & i have a leak that collects and drips from oil pan. 2007 vw eos so a slave cylinder leak would be devastating. Going down to identify the leak, Stay up playas!!!!
You Guys are great im gonna check out my 91 integra to see if that the concern so it saves me money from replacing the whole clutch thx guys God bless
thank you guys so much! I thought my clutch was done for but I just had a leak. you saved me hundreds!
mini Cooper màstercy cylinder
that really helped out alot guys im finishing a project with a h22a in a 94 accord and replaced the slave and master cylinder and the clutch pedal is sticking the floor
id apperiate for a commet back
Thanks guy, this totally fixed my problem with my sons car. You made it simple and easy for me..
I think this video will help me a lot with my MG midget, it gas some clutch problems and it will help me so much.... Thanks guys for doing this...
This video was great. It helped me diagnose my son's clutch pedal problem. Thanks.
Great video guys. I have a 2005 Renault Laguna. The clutch doesn't disengage (since 3 days ago).It started the symptoms slowly at first and then the following day the control gave up entirely. Almost certainly a hydraulic fail. Just started to investigate the problem with a view to repairing it and saving a bucketful of garage bills. My first concern is that the master cylinder attached to the pedal looks very awkward to get at and remove/replace if necessary. I will have a more serious attempt on it during the next few days, provided the West of Scotland winter weather does'nt prevent me. Have any of you guys done a similar repair on a Laguna, and is it feasible for someone like me with a fairly good history of car repairs ? (Recently overhauled my braking system)
Great info. My Toyota Corolla S cutch is starting to slip - even when I release the clutch, she's still going into gear. But 133,000 miles on one clutch is pretty good. Thanks for the video.
What did it turn out to be toyota 1300s 100,000 mile same problem slipping quite a bit ?
ponemark PI ended up replacing the whole she-bang. Clutches were wore slam out. Had a Mom and Pop shop do the work. She runs great now. Those Corolla S, 4 cyl engines are bullet proof.
yes sorted with new clutch not what she wanted to hear.106,000 mile thanks prefer a rear wheel drive anyday ! Thanks !
I got a 2004 civic Sir I call rusty too, pedal is awful soft, I don't see any signs of leakage, master is full, I guess I'll try the bleedin too, thanks for the video!
Finally! A video that helps. I have a 97 Accord with the same problem - right now my clutch is sitting on the floor. Did you have to replace the slave, or after flushing everything does it work fine?
fantastic video, thats exactly what my bmw 320i 1983 is doing thanks for taking the time to make this. Cheers
You might've just saved me the price of a new clutch!
Awesome video. I am definitely subscribing to your channel
Yep, My 87 Jeep has a separate reservoir, while My 2004 SATURN has a shared clutch/brake reservoir... Jeep is in the 3rd clutch. (hose burned a hole thru killed the 2nd clutch)
SATURN lasted 255000 miles on the 1st clutch ❤️👍 currently at 357000+ miles on the 2nd clutch. Today, Jeep clutch went to the floor while engine was hot... Then pump pump and the clutch woke up. That's what brought Me to this video.
i have the same problem with my old kia sportage. this video helped a lot! thanks man!
Thanks - my clutch pedal seems very hard to push. Works but makes a creaking noise and very hard, despite me having strong legs. 243k miles on 2013 Accord coupe V6 - six speed. Any thoughts would be helpful. Thanks again. 😊
Thanks for posting. I find the emphasis on diagnosis is really important, often glossed over in some others' RUclips videos. Looking forward to a second video where you replace the slave cylinder. Have you fixed it yet?
Hey thanks for this video. Very helpful. Most videos are not clear at all. The guy doing it knows what going on but if someone trying to learn and can't see a thing, it won't help. So great job.
I have a 07 Wrangler Rubicon that the clutch paddle is soft now, can't shift. But my brake fluid reservoir is not low...Do you think its still the slave cylinder having a leak?
Thanks for the video guys I've just got this problem on my dc5 and I've just checked and there's a leak, thanks again guys great help. Subbed
what a clear and useful video thanks fellers
I believe my 2004 VW GTI clutch cylinder is located inside the housing for the clutch and flywheel. The system seems to operate well, even thought it's 16 years old. However, I do plan on replacing the clutch and flywheel as preventative maintenance. Considering the location of the clutch cylinder and the difficult in reaching it, do you advise replacing it at the same time the clutch and flywheel are replaced? Additionally, how is this internally housed cylinder bled? Thanks for making this video.
great video well done guys...my clutch has gone I was driving and it gradually wore out and now my clutch has no pressure onit at all and i cannot get it in gear. I just wanted to know, do i need 2 replace my clutch or anything 2 fix the problem or can i do this bleed method and save some money?? thanks!!
Great video! Thanks. My problem seems to be unique...not sure. I recently had a problem where my clutch started rapidly getting softer and softer as I was driving it in town, and soon it just sat on the floor. I got it in gear long enough to get it home, and have had it parked. Today I went out to look at it to see if it was dripping on the interior side (haven't checked the slave cylinder yet), and when I grabbed the clutch with my hand and pulled it up, it sort of shot up halfway back into normal position. I thought nothing of it and figured it would stick to the floor if I pushed it again, but it didn't. I got in the car and pumped it with my foot, and it feels better than ever...and I'm so confused. I even backed the car out as I normally would have before the issue, and then drove it forward again in first (I wasn't able to do either of those smoothly at all last time I drove it). So yeah, there appears to be NO problem any longer, but of course, this is the worst situation cause I know dang well there was a problem before, and now it's not showing the issue. You recommend bleeding them still? I'll check the slave cylinder tomorrow, but thought I'd get on here and see if anyone had any ideas.
this is really late... but did you ever figure out the issue? i literally have the same problem going on right now.... and there is no damn way to can be the clutch cause i just got a new clutch done at the honda dealer.... but i am so scared its something to do with that.... shit was not cheap.... but my peddle is basically doing the same... it was stiff feeling... and then all of a sudden it would basically be paper thin and no grabbing all the way to almost the floor and then a slight grab at the end.... i noticed if i pumped my clutch several times though it would almost go back to being good again....
I'm working on my 96 Nissan maxima with the 3.0l v6 and as of now I replaced the clutch, master cylinder, and slave cylinder and the entire upper half of my clutch petal is dead and it grabs at the very bottom of the petal with no play whatsoever and I cant figure it out. I've blead all the lines, did an entire fluid flush, made sure all the air was out of the lines, and I still have half a dead petal. everyone I ask for help with it is at a loss and no one can figure it out. Thanks for making this video it definitely helped but I still cant figure it out.
@autohowtovideos thanks for your help!! I've changed the slave cylinder and it works great now! thanks again !!
Very helpful and I will have to be able to make sure that I can share your knowledge and look like a pro. .thanks
I have a 1991 Plymouth Laser RS 145K miles on it, and since i bought the car a year ago i noticed when the clutch is engaged its makes a quick grinding sound when shifting gears, it usually does this grinding when the vehicle is driving in cold weather conditions. After watching your video it gave me the idea to try and bleed the clutch. Since ive been driving it i also noticed the fluid level has not moved since ever. Hopefully i didn't damage the clutch and more :/ any ideas???
@fairhare do you have any resistance on the clutch pedal or is it limp? yes, any hydraulic failure such as a leaky master cylinder or slave cylinder could cause the clutch to not disengage, but the pedal will go to the floor with no resistance. sometimes the clutch disc will rust to the flywheel if the vehicle has been sitting awhile, and the clutch pedal will feel as if everything is normal. if this doesnt help reply back with your year, make, and model, and we can figure this out. Willie B.
thanks for the video guys. I have 94 accord and have a same problem. question, I opened the bleeder when the person push down the clutch pedal a little bit of fluid came out. should I wait for a while to close the bleeder until the fluid comes out without stopping?
Great work and instruction guys, thanks. I have a problem with my gears - I have a 2006 Ford Fiesta, when I first start the car and pull away, the gear change is absolutely normal. But, when I drive for half an hour until the car is up to temperature, it becomes really difficult to change gears... I've heard that it could be the clutch, the gearbox, and the gear lever mechanism bushes... any diagnosis similar to this? Thanks again chaps.
+dougieladd Yes, your problem is that you drive a Ford...
have u had the trans fluid changed
It was the leverage, it needed greasing. It took a few goes to diagnose it though. It's all sorted now mate, thanks. Back to normal. Chaka Zulu - thanks, very helpful!
This was really great, really helped me understand more about the clutch, saved me miney, and easy job to do. Thanks for taking your time as well to make this video for people like me haha.
@Avenger77420 based on what you've replaced it sounds like you just have air in the system.. (double check the master/slave for any leaks etc. but if your not losing fluid it sounds like you just need to do a good system bleed. basically follow the steps we did to bleed in the video pump and open the slave bleeder screw then pump again..sometimes gravity bleeding works too. it may take a few tries but it sounds like you def have air in the system giving the spongy feel.
Thanks guys, this helped me replace my master and slave cylinders in my civic.
I was on an uphill ramp in 2nd gear at around 3.5k RPM then the RPMs shot up and the speed did nothing. Noticed a slight burn scent soon after for a minute then went away. But I heard you can test if your clutch is slipping by say going uphil and putting it into say 5th and stomping on gas (low speed) and if the rpms/engine bogs down (which it did) means the clutch is NOT slipping. Suggestions :)
I have a 1985 Chevy S10. Replaced slave cylinder, master cylinder and rubber hose. Bled system. No bubbles. Would shift ok at first then stop. Clutch pressure gone. Bled a couple more times. Same thing keeps happening. What do you think is wrong?
Good stuff. Thanks for the video
Hi Brian great vid, quick question I've got a 97 sti impreza I've noticed its starting to rev out a little in 5th gear now and then, also the clutch pedal is sitting half way to the floor all the time and it takes very little to engage it, could this be solved with bleeding or is the clutch slipping!!
Hi Brain,
I am using Ford ikon 1.8 diesel Indian version. I have a clutch problem. the resistance on the pedal was nil while I was driving and I guessed that the clutch was worn out but after a day the clutch was working fine but again it had the same issue. I took it to my mechanic and he said the there was a leak in the tube as well as the master cylinder has to be replaced. after the replacement started I had to replace master and slave cylinders with the tubes which had leak and also the
Just had new cluch kit put in my 94 chevy silverado 5.7 liter 350 5 speed 2 years ago and I think I have a throw out bearning issue when clutch is is ingadge no rattling when letting clutch out ingear get a rattling sound and in nutral also ?? Is this a throw out bearing or a piolet bearing ?? And what would happen if ether one of these go out completely while driving??? And how much shop cost to have fixed??
Thanks for posting. I have a standard and have no compression, I'll try this
awesome video short, simple and very helpful
Nice and very helpful for begginers like me! thanks guys!
I have a 2003 chevy s-10 5 speed manual. I recently replaced the clutch. Before I replaced it the clutch pedal had no pressure and I could not shift the gears while the truck was running. I was able to drive the truck again after replacing the clutch for about a week and now I'm having the same problem. Do you think it is the slave cylinder or something else? Thanks, Jessica
@jbarringer89 based on this info since you've replaced the clutch I would follow the steps in the video and check your hydraulic system for leaks. start by bleeding the slave cylinder first. I believe your truck has an internal slave but it should have an external bleeder screw.(check the master as well) When you pulled the clutch did you see any leaks? Something i've personally experienced was an internal slave failure which leaked fluid on my clutch causing me to need to replace both the slave
@autohowtovideos
and the clutch as well (that fluid will ruin the disc). So start with a simple bleed procedure and check the system for leaks but if the system won't hold pressure and the master looks good I would suspect you need to replace that internal slave.
Good video! If you had an extra set of hands you could have someone point a flashlight at those locations in the engine. At 5 minutes in it looks like you do use a light, so thank you.
Brian, I have a question. I have a 1990 Honda Accord LX and the clutch is giving me some problems. I just had the master cylinder replaced a few months ago and today as I was making a turn I tried to shift down and the car wouldn't go into gear. I pulled over, and as I pressed the clutch in, it still wouldn't go into gear. We turned the car off and easily shifted all gears. I was told to replace the slave cylinder......Is that true and how do I know if I need a complete clutch replacement?
This is a really good video! Very informative. Subscribed!
I need help with a 1999 SVT Cobra. the clutch pedal is pretty hard. I think it’s the new Clutch Kit that it got, but idk tbh. It’s kinda hard. Works perfectly fine. Can i loosen it up a bit or something?
OpFrosted Flakes Stiff pedal is better than squishy pedal. May take a little while to break in the new clutch.
@hotdream320 if the slave is leaking fluid from the boot or with the bleeder closed you def need to replace it.. be sure to also check your lines and master to make sure there are no other air/fluid leaks. once the new slave is on follow the bleed procedure (it might take quite a few tries) to build up pressure and you should be good to go
@50fordman can't remember off the top of my head if its an internal or external slave (i believe its internal) anyway it seems like you just need to bleed the air out of the system like we did in our clutch video. i've had several clutches on a lot of vehicles take a long time to bleed not as easy as brakes in most cases. A tip would be to crack the bleeder screw and let it stay open with out any pressure until you get a steady drip. Basically let gravity do its thing. hope this helps
I have a 2000 saab-93 and i have to pump the clutch 3 or 4 times to shift it in the next gear and sometimes it makes a loud sound when trying to put it in to gear. I have had the master and slave cylinder replaced and the clutch and pressure plate as well.
92 s10, (external slave too). clutch pedal is hard to push, not springy like a clutch should be. I've been told that is most likely the bearing. anyway, I seem to have a leak from the area where the slave cylinder bolts to the trans. I'm not ever low on fluid, but could the slave still leak? I seem to have a couple drips every time I look at the underside of the trans.
Thanks for making this video, my Mitsubishi lancer gsr turbo reves smoothy when parked but under hard acceleration it won't pass 5 or six thousand rpm. Sometimes in the morning the clutch pedal feels very soft and low to the floor. It usually builds back up while driving. Is this a sign of a tired clutch or leaky clutch hydrolics.up
Good video. Have a 1994 Toyota Tercel. My son is driving it and now the car goes into gear but have to rev the motor to get it to move forward. It slowly gets up to speed but on a hill, very slow to pick up. I'll check the slave cylinder first before deciding it's the clutch. Doesn't seem to grind at all when going into gear. Any thought?
Cliff Olney Sounds like the clutch has reached the end of its life. One more test you can do- get the car up to speed on level ground in top gear (like 55mph or more) and let off the gas pedal; if the engine speed drops straight away (it'll only be a couple of hundred rpm) without the car speed changing then the clutch is dead. You'll need a new clutch, get that fixed while the car can still be driven to the workshop.
I have a Chevy S-10 2003 double cab, brazilian made. Clutch keeps engaged at any speed and at any time, and when it happens I have to pump several times for it to suddenly release. I saw your video and found very useful to know how it works, but frankly I have no idea of what is going on. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks alot guys this helped me
I have a question, m having problems shifting my car to fist Gear specialy on Reverce. i dont know what the problem is can u help??
Thank you.
Idk if this was covered but could use the advise. 88 honda prelude 2.0. Clutch doesnt grab until almost all the way out, last 3 inches or so. And when Im driving and give it "more then normal" throttle the clutch slips. Bad clutch or air in the lines?
hydraulic clutch grasps why at the top. no loss in hydraulics, no leaks, pressure is new. 2010 manual lancer .thank you
@zane2289 if the pedal actually feels soft or spongy it's a hydraulic issue, sometimes is difficult to get all the air out so you could open the bleeder am let it gravity bleed instead of the pressure method, make sure the master is only adjusted to a slight bit of end play, but not much more or less. See if you can watch the slave mice while someone else pushes the pedal and go from there
At almost 30k and my wrx clutch pedal is losing feel any tips? It just feels not as firm as usual. Especially after a few pulls. Update checked the fluid and its still full. It shares fluid with the brakes via a hose out of the bottom
pump the clutch pedal or slave cylinder itself? I've tried to bleed as you've wrote it and it seems not really working so, I checked the slave cylinder and it is leaking. so, I am trying to change the slave cylinder tomorrow. is there anything I should be careful about? thanks!
hey men, my car doesnt move when im shifting into the gear, its like neutral doesnt move at all
@tricky big tip everybody is to remember there are only a few components so it's a process of elimination bleed the clutch first and check the master,slave, and hoses for leaks first.. If that doesn't fix it them look at replacing a clutch.. Unfortunatley these are all wear and tear parts so every vehicle will need a clutch or two in it's life ;) hope this helps
Very thorough, awesome video. Thank you!
@nyshadow clutch slip is basically when your clutch is engaging the transmission but there is a "slippage" for example imagine you let the clutch out and the engine rpm's climb without any forward motion or tire slippage.. all clutches will slip to a point as they only have so much grabbing power.. if you clutch is very worn you will notice it is not able to handle all the power from your engine and transfer that to your wheels..
Just replaced master and slave cylinder as well as ran new line between the 2 and I've bled and pumped and bled and pumped and I'm building no pressure whatsoever. Any tips?
@maverick2030 well we noticed the slave was leaking a fair amount and the master had a tiny leak.. after bleeding it worked fine but we should and i would recommend replacing them especially since the parts are pretty cheap and its easy to do..
Just bought a honda civic type s 1.8 2007. Clutch seems to be very stiff!!! Would bleeding it and changing clutch fluid solve the problem? How much would mechanic charge for this?
Thanks!
Random FYI: I've owned that 1987 since new & it's got THE SAME POWER STEERING FLUID as 1987 with no issues. 👍😜
my clutch pedal is hard to push. the pressure plate and clutch disk are already replaced still it becomes hard to push as the engine heats up.. the master cylinder is not leaking, the slave cylinder might be the problem because it leaks a little bit of fluid. does it make sense?
Hi. I am having issues with my 95 probe and my pedal is staying on the floor when I press it but I still am unable to shift into gear. I already bled the system and the fluids came out after a couple times of opening the bleeder. There are no leaks on any of the lines nor is there on the master or the slave. Should I replace them or could it be the Clutch or flywheels themselves causing my problem? It hasn't had any issues till today it went from shifting great to not at all today.
it just started last week on my 1985 Toyota corolla GTS, I have to pump it around 40 times to build up pressure to put in gear. it can lose pressure in like 10 seconds or sometimes it'll have pressure for like a while, does this sound like a air in the system issue or my slave cylinder is done?
A brilliant and informative video. 10/10
Brain I have a 93 Honda Accord LX with clutch issues. When i shift it grinds into second and third, and driving home to park it i notice on the freeway as i was shifting i was not picking up speed but slowing down when i press the gas the RPM will race. After parking the car and went to move it this morning into the garage putting it into first gear the car want move at all now. All my fluids are intact and im not leaking any thing do i need to replace my whole clutch system now ?
I have a 2015 Ford Fiesta diesel manual, six speed after an hour of driving the car every night when pulling away in first gear and reverse the car starts to shudder I’m thinking must be something to do with heat in the clutch. Any ideas what this could be please thank you
Very nice video, easy for a guy like me grasp the concept. Thanks!
@Avenger77420 yup if fluid is coming out of the rod on the master cylinder it needs to be replaced.. do that and don't forget to take note of the end play between the rod and the cylinder (basically its that bit of slack in your pedal) some times you have to adjust that a bit when you put a new one on. but once its replaced make sure you bleed it thoroughly and your all set! shouldnt take more than an hour or two and very basic tools
@nano60608 if your just learning your clutch could be getting a little hot and causing the loose pedal.. the fluid is brake/clutch fluid which is what we are using and bleeding in the video.. follow the bleeding steps we did if your clutch continues to feel loose and see if that helps..
I have a 1996 Ford Ranger Super Cab 4.0L. The clutch wasnt releasing, and i replaced the clutch assebly, and master cylinder, and bled the system but i still have no clutch. what do you think is the problem?
@MafiaGN260 you may also have a bad release cable? they get sticky over time and sometimes seize up.
the pedal that u push in is the clutch or the brake?
I have a '93 honda civic. This morning on my way to work, I was coasting up the freeway off ramp. When I pushed in the clutch and tried to bring the gear shifter out of 5th, it felt crunchy, and then wouldn't go into another gear. I tried all the other gears - reverse would grind the teeth. After shutting off the car, I decided to try wiggling the gear shifter around more in 5th. FInally, it popped out, and then I could shift normally again.
Do you have troubleshooting tips?
Thanks for the try Jhong. I flushed the system. Then it was better for a about a week. Then started grinding A LOT. I replaced the slave and master cylinders. Grinding changed, but still hard to shift and sounds like something is loose and rattling around. The disk?
your problem is in the clucth master cylinder
@jhonea005 I would first check the master for any leaks or moisture then do a bleed on the system. Those fords have the internal slave I believe. ( my bronco had one too) watch out because if they leak that clutch will be toast really quick so see if you able to keep good pressure after a bleed. That fluid will eat the disk quickly if the slave is dripping.
Good explanantion, i had cluctch problem where cluctch started little hard and then sticking and then stopped working.
every time i put leg on paddle and it came back.
Mechanic did some manual bleed like you did in past but last time it appears same problem while i was climbing hill.
i was in shock and worried that no support will be available in forest area but after few mins when i tried Cluctch startd working.
Do you know why it suddenly started working. it didnt gave me problem till another 400 kms.
do u know why problem happned and why it is solved automatically ?
my car model hyundai i20 petrol.
thanks in advance.
Please do check your fuses. and Get a mechanic (Professional advice).
Sandip Thakor new one
@rides4almost sounds like you have a leak in the slave or master cylinder. Most likely will need to replace one check them for fluid leaks.
I have a 2011 Honda Civic. I tried rocking it out of ice by engaging and disengaging clutch. Unsuccessful. Now, I can't engage with the clutch at all. In any gear, I let the clutch out and the engine just revs. And, I left the car overnight on a slight hill, in first gear (no brake on) and, after the ice melted, it coasted backwards until it hit somebody's garbage bags. Could have been so much worse. What do you think the problem is? Clutch, a linkage, transmission, etc?
Great video,showed me alot,now me and my wife can bleed my clutch.Thanks doods.
Great vid, informative and straightforward.