I ran into these connectors with no idea how they were to release. Instructions were terrible for old dirty system. I really appreciate what you did here. This was REALLY GREAT ! ! !
took a while (3 weeks of searching youtube, bunches of vids) can't blame you guys, these platforms are crooked as everything trying to make anyone pay to have your content show up. anyway i found you, have used your parts for years. just needed to pull the hydraulic line to check a leak and until your video i was stumped. thank you guys.
I actually worked with this guy before, I has shot some video for him at the perfection shop a few years ago, I don't know if they ever used my video I shot for them though.He put a clutch in my 1999 Miata for me, and taught me a thing or two about clutch assembly, very smart fellow he is. It was cool seeing this video. Once again he is teaching me how to remove and re attach my part for my Miata.
Dear Team Perfection, I Can't thank you enough for putting this video and the Ranger Clutch bleed video on-line for us. My son and I followed your example to a "T" and his truck is shifting into gear perfect and smooth once again. The Truck is at 167K miles and we will absolutely buy our new clutch from you guys once needed. Thanks for turning this job into a good learning experiance for a father/son team who does all our own work. Thanks, Kent & Jake from Parkville, Missouri
Great video. I have a 2004 Silverado 3500 salt/snow truck in shop. Has a thin red plastic clip that is salty and brittle. My connector is up by firewall. Update- found one of your wrenches in my toolbox. Didnt work due to brittle rim and corrosion inside. Used large visegrip on 1 side, small vise grip on other side, managed to break the corrosive seal while my face planted in the brake master cylinder. I greased it up like a pig before reassembling. Also if anyone has a damaged clip,it can be pulled out and replaced with a pick but if your outer lip is corroded off, use vise grips on edge, then insert the precision clutch tool ht-01, then pry away.
Very informative. Did a clutch job on a 98 Ranger last year and wished I watched this video before I started! The quick connect was the style without the lip on the end, so I had to push it in, and push it in farther with a screwdriver like you showed before it came free. I was getting pretty nervous!
i have been looking all over the internet for some how to put that line in just to find i was puttig the clip in wrong the whole damn time. thank you guys yall are life savers
@@davidgallegos3214 where did you buy one or what did you do to jerry rig it because i broke mine trying to put it on (the wrong way apparently) and im not sure the one i ordered will work but fingers crossed.
well i got it i wasn't getting it packed far enough it was very trying thanx gary you are the man now its working blench bled from your. other video works like a dream
If I can’t get it to work, I’m doing everything that you guys have mentioned and I have the old style without the lip. I can’t seem to get that tool or a screwdriver to get it deep enough to let go of that line.
Cut the line and use a compression union with delrin or brass ferrules to join back together, I've even patched copper tubing segments to repair damaged plastic line. (still holding after 15 years.)
A little update on the truck we were working on. I bled the whole system and after reinstalling the master cylinder. I looked at my uncle and said well..bud.. you need a slave cylinder! So we removed the transmission again and put a slave cylinder in it! Pretty much he hopped in it and has been driving it since.. thankfully the new slave cylinder came with a plastic grommet ring for the hydraulic hose and an O ring! I heard not all do so I'm sure if the O ring looks good a person wouldn't have to change it but we did anyways since the parts were at hand and readily available.. Thanks for the help guys.
Can Performance supply a new sliding sleeve, o-ring, and tool ? I managed to get the coupler disconnected and it looks like it may have been the flangeless sliding sleeve.
Thanks for this video. I find the system with the teeth keeps a much better connection than the clip. My clip slipped off and fell INTO the slave housing in the transmission, so hopefully I can retrieve it by taking off the starter. Plugging a magnet into the peek hole didn't pull it out. I may just replace the new slave with another because I am not confident it will stay connected!
i purchased a clutch kit with a new slave cylinder, i didn't receive the line tool. hopefully line will not need to be changed, had good time wrestling with it.
Im running into a problem im unable to find my truck any ideas its a 2000 dodge dakota sport 3.9l v6 with the manual 5 speed! I need some help on how to replace the entire clutch system
The answer is simple. pull the small roller pin both on the slave cylinder, as well as the roller pin on the clutch master cylinder bolted to the firewall on the truck. slip an AN3 Russel threaded connector at each end, retain with the roller pins you pulled earlier, and then thread on a braided metal line. (48 inch long line) www.amazon.com/Russell-640281-SAE-Adapter-Fitting/dp/B002Q37CHS
I just wish you would have made it clear at the store that I really need to buy the whole thing or it's not going to snap together at the transmission point for the hydraulic line can be totally different but look the same
I noticed the slave cylinder that you guys offer for my f150 has a black clip in it, and the current one I am going to replace has the "small fingers". Will the male plug on the master work with either one?
Having a little issue, just purchased a master/ slave cylinder Assy from orileys, looks identical to the one in the video, once I installed it, the pedal is extremely hard, but fluid is still circulating, but if I press to hard the line to the slave pops out, any ideas?
Hi there! Please advise what the problem as I am really struggling to select gears in the mornings or whenever my 2004 Saab 93 Aero 2.0 T SS has been parked either overnight or during the day. My charge seem really low and as a result the car starts moving forward or backward whilst in the starting process. On top of my gearbox seems to be some oil sweat or it might be leakage. How do I fix or bleed the clutch to normalize it. Please advise...
So what does the slave cylinder actually do I just got a 1993 F-150 XLT 4.9 6 cylinder 4x4 with a 5 speed it slips I guess as the guys was reving it up and it was barely moving reved way up i thought and would get slightly going is that a slave issue or clutch?
Can the female quick connector in the slave be purchased separately? What about the white plastic bushing / locking mechanism on the male end can it be purchased?
Just recently installed both a new slave and master cylinder from Perfection clutch. Great parts and ease of installation but the disconnect on the slave where the new line connects is leaking slowly. I bled it properly, checked for any kinks, disconnected and reconnected... Can't figure it out.
They changed the design of the male and female connectors. The metal clip is no longer used. Is there a video on how to disconnect the new design? I'm battling it now, getting the sleeve to slide in and push those inside finger-type round prongs enough to release the male connector.
Hello, thanks for the video. I have Fiat Bravo 2 1.6 multijet 105hp. From 1-2 weeks I have an issue with the clutch - when I am going on first and reverse gear the car is vibrating and annoying rasping sound is heard on the front of the car. Sometimes I am not even able to shift the gears and when I turn off the car and pump the clutch and then the car start shifting and driving off without vibrations. Could it be a problem with the clutch release bearing? Or because of old brake fluid and air in the system? Thanks in advance!
The second connecting system (with the white colored sleeve) I found on a '97 Trans Am. Took two small screw drivers, packed it in and disconnected it. I did have to take a pair of slip joint pliers and rotate the line back and forth GENTLE while I pulled on the line. After a shot of PB Blaster, it slipped right out and line was reusable. Side note... try not to mess up the line. The only way GM services the line is with the master cylinder. Not cheap and a major pain to replace!
I have a 2000 Firebird with a T56 transmission, and I replaced the slave cylinder with one that has the sliding clip, but after about a week of driving, it failed and ejected the hose from the master cylinder. I bought a new clave cylinder, pulled the transmission back out, and went with the spring tab style slave cylinder, and that one is ejecting immediately when I push the clutch in while trying to bleed the system. I've pushed it in as far as it will go, and I can't pull it out by hand, but as soon as there's any hydraulic pressure, the hose ejects from the slave cylinder. Am I doing something wrong, or is either my master cylinder or slave cylinder defective? I've had the transmission out twice now and had to buy two brand new slave cylinders, and I really do not want to pull the transmission out a third time in my driveway.
To modify the line connection, carefully grind 1/16 inch groove in line fitting where clip rides . This will give more of a shoulder to hold clip from popping apart. I live in northern New York with rough roads. 3 months of driving the clip popped. This mod will works.
I'm sorry, grinding wasn't the best word. I use a small 1/4 drive die grinder to carefully create more of a shoulder to hold the clip. I have not seen your replacement connector line. You have to admit , there is not enough shoulder on the OE line for the clip . If you folks could make a better / more aggressive connection you will double your sales. Everything else about your clutch components is excellent !
Sir, the clip is not a durable hold for the very small ridge that is there to hold. On rough roads it pops within a few months of driving. Other than that your clutch components are outstanding.
. I didn't install the hydraulic line into the slave cylinder properly and it popped back out. Now I can't get the line to reattach. I can push the line into the slave cylinder, but it will not click into place. Any ideas on what im doing wrong?
I have a 2000 Pontiac firebird v6 manual trans. got brake fluid leaking from the slots in the bottom of the trans . not sure if its the slave cylinder or just a leaking line. any way to tell without dropping trans?
In some manuals they recommend disassembling the throw out bearing and greasing it inside prior to installation. I've got your 360016 and am ready to install it, should it be disassembled / greased or anything prior to installation? Thanks again for your great products and support! Truly impressive!
My daughters 05 Mustang 4.0 V6 I think is having clutch problems. I can take off in the car fine but once I'm in cruising stage and I hit the gas the rpm's rev up and the car has no acceleration at all. Is this the clutch or something else. And is her clutch Hydraulic? And I do hear a squeal sometimes while engaging the clutch pedal.
Don't know if somebody will read this, but... I own a 95' Ford Ranger 2.3 and lately the clutch has been giving me terrible problems, first it was partially fixed by adding brake fluid in the main reservoir once a week, now the fluid just goes down by day, I found that fluid was scaping at the bottom of the transmission, I did not see any problem on the main line neither the master cylinder, so the only alternative I saw was the slave cylinder. Is there anyway of pulling it out without tearing apart the transmission?
Hi I need help so I installed a duralast slave cylinder on my 00 v6 Camry and it pressure felt good but it kept cracking every month so I upgraded to Valeo and now the clutch feels super soft any ideas?
98 Ranger with very FIRM clutch pedal .. the travel from extended to the floor and back is smooth yet the clutch slips with even moderate power especially in 4th & 5th.. My thought is that the disk is worn and the pressure plate can't release enough for the clutch to grab? I was hoping to find that is not the case as not looking forward to dropping all the 4x4 xfercase etc
Sorry I had not included more info... 98 Ranger 4x4 4.0L ohv off road version with limited slip rear & I think the HD transmission VIN 1FTZR15X0WPAxxxxx (not thinking the last numbers determine equipment installed and also not keen on public posting full VIN) used meaning WAS some one else's problems are now mine with zero idea what has been done (or not) with it. ( am SOO N O T looking forward to doing this but it is useless if it won't grab... )
I changed my clutch Saturday on my 97 ranger I disconnected the quick release hose from slave and after changing clutch put it back on it snapped in like in video but now clutch pedal kinda soft hard to get in first gear did air get in line somehow when disconnected line little fluid came out but not much at all I opened slave bleeder and that helped peddle little bit
On mine I removed the clip like a idiot. For some reason it got jammed and wouldn’t lock. If I mess with it enough can I get a new clip in without pulling my transmission back out?
I replaced the clutch but not the throw out brg needless to say I had to pull it a second time however this time I cannot get the line to release this time with the tool or screwdriver it is really hung in there any suggestions
@perfectionclutch oh sorry we had a miscommunication, there is no crack but he says he needs either a slave cylinder or an arm extension? not quite sure what he means. but what can this affect he said hes been driving it like that for a year? should i buy it or should I avoid it?
How are you I have a 99 toyota camry just had the clutch replaced and now it's hard to put it in gear the shop gave it to me like that and said I need a master cylinder for the clutch do you think that would fix my problem or did they not bleed it long enough
The 90 deg shoulder may be damaged. I will double check this week . if so it's not damaged that much from what I remembered. So if the edge is damaged just a bit, can I file to get that edge . Also I was also thinking about sort of clamping them together. like a 1 inch C clamp with a rubber center or like heat strink tubing holding it inplace. cause when it does connect . I tug on it and it holds strong, but after abit of driving it releases. Yes I still have the sleeve and it looks fine.
So why not just take the the black clip off to pull the line out. Im working on my ranger right now and I cant get the stupid thing to push in. It had a lot of dirt and grim on it so I cleaned it and still won’t push so the one I have it’s the one with the clip so why not just take the clip out and then pull the line off ? Seems a lot easier than trying to force that piece in. ?
I'm trying to install a clutch master cylinder in a 2004 ranger. I'm having trouble gedtting the cylinder to seat in the bracket in the cab. Leverage enought to seat the cylinder past the spring clip. Suggestions?? Help.
Gary, have you ever heard of the clip suddenly coming off resulting in the master cylinder line disconnecting from the slave? This happened to me while driving about 150miles after putting in the new slave.
So an older master cylinder head could have been the reason for the disconnect? I was only alarmed because the line disconnected after over 100 miles. No assumption of deception, your videos are very well done. If you have an email address I can PM you rather than keep posting comments.
Thanks for the fast reply Gary, I looked at the video several times and I guess when I was trying to pushed the male in I must have bent the clip. You have to understand it was on an offroad trail when the hose came off.. I pulled the clip and it is bent on one side.Is there a way I can get a replacement clip?Thanks....
Working on a 97 ranger and I keep getting air in the line. Tomorrow morning I am going to remove the cylinder at the pedal and do the upside down air bleed technique. I am convinced it will completely fix the situation but am completely sure your video I just watched has the answers to the culprit. I noticed on the truck I am doing maintainance work on ..that the clip is intact and the hose is secure but that it does not in fact have a plastic sheathing ring. The rubber O ring looks exceptionally well but I am curious now. Does that plastic sheathing ring sustain some type of alignment that keeps air from seeping back into the hydraulic system during clutch pedal release?..Ive replace front and rear bearings in the bellhousing and installed a new stage 1 clutch and pressure plate but.... the pedal was as my uncle called it soft.. I got to his house today with plans to do the aforementioned technique and noted the pedal wasn't even connected to the hydraulic piston rod.. I found the little plastic clip for the pedal and put it back in and then added an extra clip to it to secure it in its mounting format. Then I said try that.. I laughed for ten minutes thinking he wasn't even aware it was not connected.. then to my dismay found.. the pedal was soft.. solo. I crawled under and bled the system at bleeder port.. then noted.. the whole system was gradually getting worse.. I bled it again and then decided we would pull the master cylinder at the pedal and would wait until tomorrow to do it.. I did crawl under the truck again and removed the hydraulic main line running to the transmission and that is where while watching your video later this day.. in retrospect awareness to its lack of having a plastic ring have decided. To go ahead and remove the master cylinder to just try it for luck.. but feeling deep down inside.. I hate wasting time especially if I really feel like that is where the air is getting into the line... aghhhhh... I love it.. can I pick up a plastic line coupler at the auto parts store ? I don't want to pull the master cylinder twice?
Just replaced the slave on my 91 f150 and get the hydraulic line into the slave the old one seems alot deeper than this new one i already looked up the part number and it seems to be the correct one is there something im forgetting?
That was a great video! I have an 88 Ranger that I need to remove the transmission and was unsure on how to get the Hydraulic clutch line out of the transmission. I'm much more confident now! Thank you Perfectioncluth!
After watching this video I went out n snapped the line off my 96 ford explorer with a screwdriver lol the problem is I have no idea where to get a replacement o ring or what size it is....line was leaking at the connection
On 01 pt cruiser- do you need to remove wheels, transaxle etc to replace the clutch or is this video all I need to follow? Does vehicle need to be on jack stands or can I use ramps?
Why does a lot of clutch manufacturers warn against pushing the bearing in to test out function with hand prior to installation, what damage can it cause?
I just did this last week. what a pain! What I ended up doing is some how getting one of the corners in- the whole thing was crooked, but then I was able to get tough with it and get it in there. YOu need a second person to help gruide it. I had my wife, who is pregnant and moody helping. It was not so much fun, but I couldn't have done it without her.
I have 1995 b 2300 i was traying to remove it and came off slave cly does anyone know if could be restall again the same way that came off? If transmission need to come out, not worth for me . Thanks
I installed a new clutch slave cylinder today on my 1989 f150 the old style had the clamp fingers the new one has the clip the hose will not connect to the new cylinder no matter how had I press on it but connect to the old one very easy
Have been trying to purchase one of these for a couple weeks. Multiple contact us attempts. Very odd website with no way to purchase and pay online. Almost like they don't want to sell these.
The previous owner installed a new clutch in my '94 Bronco before I bought it. 3K miles later the slave cylinder failed, so I bought this one and had a shop install it. 500 miles later it has failed to! Both failed from a leak between the back of the slave cylinder and the front of the trans housing. Any idea's on what could cause this (I replaced the master cylinder and hose as well)?!?
My clutch line popped off today. I cannot get it back in. the slave and master have been replaced in the past. I do not have a sliding grey clip on the male connector. My female connector does not have teeth inside, it has a clip that goes around it and inside of it, like many similar ones. I cannot get the connector to seat back inside of it. It will click and act right but when i press the clutch pedal, it pops right back off. The truck is a 1994 F-150 with a 302 and a M5od transmission. Any advice?
Oh boy I was familiar with vacuum bleeding but I accidentally drained all the fluid in the reservoir using a universal screw on pump that I use for pumping fluid into my transmission. Now my pedals dead and I don't know what to do. Any suggestions? I have a 2001 camaro with 225k miles on her she runs solid but I did the dumb mistake of getting vacuum happy and now the line probably has 100% air in it
perfectionclutch okay so I got my vacuum pump in the mail. Just speaking hypothetically if the line was exposed to a ton of air would it be possible to gravity bleed it with a vacuum pump? That is what I am attempting now, however this time the pedal Springs back after pumping it but I feel no hydraulic pressure whatsoever. I still have not done the two men bleeder system but I am considering it
Dear Perfection Clutch Group. All of the tooling & Instructions & Know how, & Quality. its just KILLER.
I ran into these connectors with no idea how they were to release. Instructions were terrible for old dirty system. I really appreciate what you did here. This was REALLY GREAT ! ! !
took a while (3 weeks of searching youtube, bunches of vids) can't blame you guys, these platforms are crooked as everything trying to make anyone pay to have your content show up. anyway i found you, have used your parts for years. just needed to pull the hydraulic line to check a leak and until your video i was stumped. thank you guys.
I actually worked with this guy before, I has shot some video for him at the perfection shop a few years ago, I don't know if they ever used my video I shot for them though.He put a clutch in my 1999 Miata for me, and taught me a thing or two about clutch assembly, very smart fellow he is. It was cool seeing this video. Once again he is teaching me how to remove and re attach my part for my Miata.
I just got one of these from you guys. $52 thank you and the video just saved me time.
The best video about the hydraulic clutch connection.
I burped my master cylinder today. Perfect method. Worked a treat!
Dear Team Perfection,
I Can't thank you enough for putting this video and the Ranger Clutch bleed video on-line for us. My son and I followed your example to a "T" and his truck is shifting into gear perfect and smooth once again. The Truck is at 167K miles and we will absolutely buy our new clutch from you guys once needed. Thanks for turning this job into a good learning experiance for a father/son team who does all our own work.
Thanks, Kent & Jake from Parkville, Missouri
Great video. I have a 2004 Silverado 3500 salt/snow truck in shop. Has a thin red plastic clip that is salty and brittle. My connector is up by firewall. Update- found one of your wrenches in my toolbox. Didnt work due to brittle rim and corrosion inside. Used large visegrip on 1 side, small vise grip on other side, managed to break the corrosive seal while my face planted in the brake master cylinder. I greased it up like a pig before reassembling. Also if anyone has a damaged clip,it can be pulled out and replaced with a pick but if your outer lip is corroded off, use vise grips on edge, then insert the precision clutch tool ht-01, then pry away.
Very informative. Did a clutch job on a 98 Ranger last year and wished I watched this video before I started! The quick connect was the style without the lip on the end, so I had to push it in, and push it in farther with a screwdriver like you showed before it came free. I was getting pretty nervous!
i have been looking all over the internet for some how to put that line in just to find i was puttig the clip in wrong the whole damn time. thank you guys yall are life savers
Where can I buy another clip I lost mine I've been to all auto stores and the Chevy dealer no one Carry's them
@@davidgallegos3214 where did you buy one or what did you do to jerry rig it because i broke mine trying to put it on (the wrong way apparently) and im not sure the one i ordered will work but fingers crossed.
well i got it i wasn't getting it packed far enough it was very trying thanx gary you are the man now its working blench bled from your. other video works like a dream
This vid just saved me a ton of headaches! Thanks 👍
Whoever come up with this design needs to be. Dealt with in a horrific way This is terrible, this is so awful, it's unreal.
You are very professional and have exactly the info I need. I am impressed
If I can’t get it to work, I’m doing everything that you guys have mentioned and I have the old style without the lip. I can’t seem to get that tool or a screwdriver to get it deep enough to let go of that line.
They were a lifesaver for me. I received the part I needed. Thanks for all your help
Where did you get this part.
All info is welcome.
Cut the line and use a compression union with delrin or brass ferrules to join back together, I've even patched copper tubing segments to repair damaged plastic line. (still holding after 15 years.)
A little update on the truck we were working on. I bled the whole system and after reinstalling the master cylinder. I looked at my uncle and said well..bud.. you need a slave cylinder! So we removed the transmission again and put a slave cylinder in it! Pretty much he hopped in it and has been driving it since.. thankfully the new slave cylinder came with a plastic grommet ring for the hydraulic hose and an O ring! I heard not all do so I'm sure if the O ring looks good a person wouldn't have to change it but we did anyways since the parts were at hand and readily available.. Thanks for the help guys.
Thanks buddy ... i was at a loss !! APPRECIATE YOU
Can Performance supply a new sliding sleeve, o-ring, and tool ? I managed to get the coupler disconnected and it looks like it may have been the flangeless sliding sleeve.
Thanks for this video. I find the system with the teeth keeps a much better connection than the clip. My clip slipped off and fell INTO the slave housing in the transmission, so hopefully I can retrieve it by taking off the starter. Plugging a magnet into the peek hole didn't pull it out. I may just replace the new slave with another because I am not confident it will stay connected!
Thanks. I remember watching this clip and glad I found it again as I was having a hard time removing my transmission line.
I'm having problems removing mines from the transmission it's chewed up how do I remove it
@@williamhayes3005 I'm not really sure.
I need to know what size the two bolts that are holding the slave cylinder on what size and thread pitch they are
I tried pushing in like you showed, but mine doesn't fit at all. Any advice?
i purchased a clutch kit with a new slave cylinder, i didn't receive the line tool. hopefully line will not need to be changed, had good time wrestling with it.
Im running into a problem im unable to find my truck any ideas its a 2000 dodge dakota sport 3.9l v6 with the manual 5 speed! I need some help on how to replace the entire clutch system
How can I obtain just the Plastic retainer/Keeper?
The question I have is does your company sell a replacement o-ring and that slip sleeve that keeps the clutch line in place ?
The answer is simple. pull the small roller pin both on the slave cylinder, as well as the roller pin on the clutch master cylinder bolted to the firewall on the truck.
slip an AN3 Russel threaded connector at each end, retain with the roller pins you pulled earlier, and then thread on a braided metal line. (48 inch long line)
www.amazon.com/Russell-640281-SAE-Adapter-Fitting/dp/B002Q37CHS
I wish you would have gave the part number for the Ford clip
I just wish you would have made it clear at the store that I really need to buy the whole thing or it's not going to snap together at the transmission point for the hydraulic line can be totally different but look the same
I noticed the slave cylinder that you guys offer for my f150 has a black clip in it, and the current one I am going to replace has the "small fingers". Will the male plug on the master work with either one?
How about the other side of the line,getting the pin out to release the line from the master?
Having a little issue, just purchased a master/ slave cylinder Assy from orileys, looks identical to the one in the video, once I installed it, the pedal is extremely hard, but fluid is still circulating, but if I press to hard the line to the slave pops out, any ideas?
I'm having a similar issue
I got a 90 f1504x4 302 5.0 and I am trying to get the clutch line out of the transmission to get a new one put onto it how do I do this one
How does that gold part stay in without falling out?
Hi there!
Please advise what the problem as I am really struggling to select gears in the mornings or whenever my 2004 Saab 93 Aero 2.0 T SS has been parked either overnight or during the day. My charge seem really low and as a result the car starts moving forward or backward whilst in the starting process. On top of my gearbox seems to be some oil sweat or it might be leakage. How do I fix or bleed the clutch to normalize it. Please advise...
So what does the slave cylinder actually do I just got a 1993 F-150 XLT 4.9 6 cylinder 4x4 with a 5 speed it slips I guess as the guys was reving it up and it was barely moving reved way up i thought and would get slightly going is that a slave issue or clutch?
Where can you order new retainer clips ?
Can the female quick connector in the slave be purchased separately? What about the white plastic bushing / locking mechanism on the male end can it be purchased?
Just recently installed both a new slave and master cylinder from Perfection clutch. Great parts and ease of installation but the disconnect on the slave where the new line connects is leaking slowly. I bled it properly, checked for any kinks, disconnected and reconnected... Can't figure it out.
They changed the design of the male and female connectors. The metal clip is no longer used. Is there a video on how to disconnect the new design? I'm battling it now, getting the sleeve to slide in and push those inside finger-type round prongs enough to release the male connector.
Nevermind.....I see it at the 3 min. mark.
Hello, thanks for the video. I have Fiat Bravo 2 1.6 multijet 105hp. From 1-2 weeks I have an issue with the clutch - when I am going on first and reverse gear the car is vibrating and annoying rasping sound is heard on the front of the car. Sometimes I am not even able to shift the gears and when I turn off the car and pump the clutch and then the car start shifting and driving off without vibrations. Could it be a problem with the clutch release bearing? Or because of old brake fluid and air in the system? Thanks in advance!
The second connecting system (with the white colored sleeve) I found on a '97 Trans Am. Took two small screw drivers, packed it in and disconnected it. I did have to take a pair of slip joint pliers and rotate the line back and forth GENTLE while I pulled on the line. After a shot of PB Blaster, it slipped right out and line was reusable. Side note... try not to mess up the line. The only way GM services the line is with the master cylinder. Not cheap and a major pain to replace!
I have a 2000 Firebird with a T56 transmission, and I replaced the slave cylinder with one that has the sliding clip, but after about a week of driving, it failed and ejected the hose from the master cylinder. I bought a new clave cylinder, pulled the transmission back out, and went with the spring tab style slave cylinder, and that one is ejecting immediately when I push the clutch in while trying to bleed the system. I've pushed it in as far as it will go, and I can't pull it out by hand, but as soon as there's any hydraulic pressure, the hose ejects from the slave cylinder.
Am I doing something wrong, or is either my master cylinder or slave cylinder defective? I've had the transmission out twice now and had to buy two brand new slave cylinders, and I really do not want to pull the transmission out a third time in my driveway.
To modify the line connection, carefully grind 1/16 inch groove in line fitting where clip rides . This will give more of a shoulder to hold clip from popping apart. I live in northern New York with rough roads. 3 months of driving the clip popped. This mod will works.
I'm sorry, grinding wasn't the best word. I use a small 1/4 drive die grinder to carefully create more of a shoulder to hold the clip. I have not seen your replacement connector line. You have to admit , there is not enough shoulder on the OE line for the clip . If you folks could make a better / more aggressive connection you will double your sales. Everything else about your clutch components is excellent !
Sir, the clip is not a durable hold for the very small ridge that is there to hold. On rough roads it pops within a few months of driving. Other than that your clutch components are outstanding.
I had my line pop off in 20 blocks. Was not happy.
@@danhutchins9353 I can't keep the line in my 94 F150.
hi, was only wondering if you can just get the clip, I took mine out wrong and bashed the heck!! out of the old one can I just get a clip and were??
. I didn't install the hydraulic line into the slave cylinder properly and it popped back out. Now I can't get the line to reattach. I can push the line into the slave cylinder, but it will not click into place. Any ideas on what im doing wrong?
Oiga disculpe la molestia como puedo? Retirar la linea dela bomba que va al collarin si ya no tiene el plastico..?
I have a 2000 Pontiac firebird v6 manual trans. got brake fluid leaking from the slots in the bottom of the trans . not sure if its the slave cylinder or just a leaking line. any way to tell without dropping trans?
In some manuals they recommend disassembling the throw out bearing and greasing it inside prior to installation. I've got your 360016 and am ready to install it, should it be disassembled / greased or anything prior to installation? Thanks again for your great products and support! Truly impressive!
My daughters 05 Mustang 4.0 V6 I think is having clutch problems. I can take off in the car fine but once I'm in cruising stage and I hit the gas the rpm's rev up and the car has no acceleration at all. Is this the clutch or something else. And is her clutch Hydraulic? And I do hear a squeal sometimes while engaging the clutch pedal.
I have a Honda Accord 2002 , my connector looks beat and all smashed would this be causing a reason to why my brake fluid is leaking ?
Don't know if somebody will read this, but...
I own a 95' Ford Ranger 2.3 and lately the clutch has been giving me terrible problems, first it was partially fixed by adding brake fluid in the main reservoir once a week, now the fluid just goes down by day, I found that fluid was scaping at the bottom of the transmission, I did not see any problem on the main line neither the master cylinder, so the only alternative I saw was the slave cylinder. Is there anyway of pulling it out without tearing apart the transmission?
Hi I need help so I installed a duralast slave cylinder on my 00 v6 Camry and it pressure felt good but it kept cracking every month so I upgraded to Valeo and now the clutch feels super soft any ideas?
Am I hallucinating or is that sleeve filled with some sort of active fluid? Looks like it's boiling in there 2:22
Lol.. I see it too
I saw it too
98 Ranger with very FIRM clutch pedal .. the travel from extended to the floor and back is smooth yet the clutch slips with even moderate power especially in 4th & 5th..
My thought is that the disk is worn and the pressure plate can't release enough for the clutch to grab?
I was hoping to find that is not the case as not looking forward to dropping all the 4x4 xfercase etc
Sorry I had not included more info... 98 Ranger 4x4 4.0L ohv off road version with limited slip rear & I think the HD transmission VIN 1FTZR15X0WPAxxxxx (not thinking the last numbers determine equipment installed and also not keen on public posting full VIN)
used meaning WAS some one else's problems are now mine with zero idea what has been done (or not) with it. ( am SOO N O T looking forward to doing this but it is useless if it won't grab... )
can you replace the hydraulic hose to the slave cylinder on a 97 S10 without removing the transmission
Does removing the clip affect the check valves? In one video the guy says don't remove clip.
I tried installing the clip style one even with the clip out it doesn't even push close to halfway
I changed my clutch Saturday on my 97 ranger I disconnected the quick release hose from slave and after changing clutch put it back on it snapped in like in video but now clutch pedal kinda soft hard to get in first gear did air get in line somehow when disconnected line little fluid came out but not much at all I opened slave bleeder and that helped peddle little bit
just a little fluid out is to much,,u must bleed the line ,,u don't want no air at all,,beleve me.
Thank you, sir, saved us a bunch of time
On mine I removed the clip like a idiot. For some reason it got jammed and wouldn’t lock. If I mess with it enough can I get a new clip in without pulling my transmission back out?
I replaced the clutch but not the throw out brg needless to say I had to pull it a second time however this time I cannot get the line to release this time with the tool or screwdriver it is really hung in there any suggestions
@perfectionclutch oh sorry we had a miscommunication, there is no crack but he says he needs either a slave cylinder or an arm extension? not quite sure what he means. but what can this affect he said hes been driving it like that for a year? should i buy it or should I avoid it?
Im looking to buy the clip alone (@5:00) any idea where I can find one? or the part number?
I also need one. Any luck?
I lost the oring. What size is it? Thank you
How are you I have a 99 toyota camry just had the clutch replaced and now it's hard to put it in gear the shop gave it to me like that and said I need a master cylinder for the clutch do you think that would fix my problem or did they not bleed it long enough
I have the old kind and I’ve pushed it in to the point where there’s no more white clip showing and yet the plug is still in and won’t come out
The 90 deg shoulder may be damaged. I will double check this week . if so it's not damaged that much from what I remembered. So if the edge is damaged just a bit, can I file to get that edge . Also I was also thinking about sort of clamping them together. like a 1 inch C clamp with a rubber center or like heat strink tubing holding it inplace. cause when it does connect . I tug on it and it holds strong, but after abit of driving it releases. Yes I still have the sleeve and it looks fine.
So why not just take the the black clip off to pull the line out.
Im working on my ranger right now and I cant get the stupid thing to push in. It had a lot of dirt and grim on it so I cleaned it and still won’t push so the one I have it’s the one with the clip so why not just take the clip out and then pull the line off ?
Seems a lot easier than trying to force that piece in. ?
Question, what if the silicone pusher is broken and came out, What can I use to use something else to push to open it??
I'm trying to install a clutch master cylinder in a 2004 ranger. I'm having trouble gedtting the cylinder to seat in the bracket in the cab. Leverage enought to seat the cylinder past the spring clip. Suggestions?? Help.
Gary, have you ever heard of the clip suddenly coming off resulting in the master cylinder line disconnecting from the slave? This happened to me while driving about 150miles after putting in the new slave.
So an older master cylinder head could have been the reason for the disconnect? I was only alarmed because the line disconnected after over 100 miles. No assumption of deception, your videos are very well done. If you have an email address I can PM you rather than keep posting comments.
I just bought one of this clutch systems for my bronco and it also disconnected while traveling on a dirt road.. Now I can't get it to lock in...
Thanks for the fast reply Gary, I looked at the video several times and I guess when I was trying to pushed the male in I must have bent the clip. You have to understand it was on an offroad trail when the hose came off.. I pulled the clip and it is bent on one side.Is there a way I can get a replacement clip?Thanks....
Working on a 97 ranger and I keep getting air in the line. Tomorrow morning I am going to remove the cylinder at the pedal and do the upside down air bleed technique. I am convinced it will completely fix the situation but am completely sure your video I just watched has the answers to the culprit. I noticed on the truck I am doing maintainance work on ..that the clip is intact and the hose is secure but that it does not in fact have a plastic sheathing ring. The rubber O ring looks exceptionally well but I am curious now. Does that plastic sheathing ring sustain some type of alignment that keeps air from seeping back into the hydraulic system during clutch pedal release?..Ive replace front and rear bearings in the bellhousing and installed a new stage 1 clutch and pressure plate but.... the pedal was as my uncle called it soft.. I got to his house today with plans to do the aforementioned technique and noted the pedal wasn't even connected to the hydraulic piston rod.. I found the little plastic clip for the pedal and put it back in and then added an extra clip to it to secure it in its mounting format. Then I said try that.. I laughed for ten minutes thinking he wasn't even aware it was not connected.. then to my dismay found.. the pedal was soft.. solo. I crawled under and bled the system at bleeder port.. then noted.. the whole system was gradually getting worse.. I bled it again and then decided we would pull the master cylinder at the pedal and would wait until tomorrow to do it.. I did crawl under the truck again and removed the hydraulic main line running to the transmission and that is where while watching your video later this day.. in retrospect awareness to its lack of having a plastic ring have decided. To go ahead and remove the master cylinder to just try it for luck.. but feeling deep down inside.. I hate wasting time especially if I really feel like that is where the air is getting into the line... aghhhhh... I love it.. can I pick up a plastic line coupler at the auto parts store ? I don't want to pull the master cylinder twice?
GREAT VIDEO! Thank you so much! It helped me while doing this repair for the first time!!
Just replaced the slave on my 91 f150 and get the hydraulic line into the slave the old one seems alot deeper than this new one i already looked up the part number and it seems to be the correct one is there something im forgetting?
Is there anyway to just replace the line without messing with the couplers or the master cylinder?
That was a great video! I have an 88 Ranger that I need to remove the transmission and was unsure on how to get the Hydraulic clutch line out of the transmission. I'm much more confident now! Thank you Perfectioncluth!
After watching this video I went out n snapped the line off my 96 ford explorer with a screwdriver lol the problem is I have no idea where to get a replacement o ring or what size it is....line was leaking at the connection
Is the line the same or is it proprietary to the clip system kit
On 01 pt cruiser- do you need to remove wheels, transaxle etc to replace the clutch or is this video all I need to follow? Does vehicle need to be on jack stands or can I use ramps?
Is this also availeble for my jeep wrangler yj 2.5 1991.
Wher can i get this connection.
Greetings from Belgium
Greetings from belgium.
What is the name of that tool at 1.32 where can I order it from
thk u SOOO much your a wizard i was stuck till i saw this video!!!
Thank God I finally found this video I must have watched 20 about Slade cylinders but nobody actually tells you how to disconnect that line
Why does a lot of clutch manufacturers warn against pushing the bearing in to test out function with hand prior to installation, what damage can it cause?
I just did this last week. what a pain! What I ended up doing is some how getting one of the corners in- the whole thing was crooked, but then I was able to get tough with it and get it in there. YOu need a second person to help gruide it. I had my wife, who is pregnant and moody helping. It was not so much fun, but I couldn't have done it without her.
Where can I get those clamps at
I have 1995 b 2300 i was traying to remove it and came off slave cly does anyone know if could be restall again the same way that came off? If transmission need to come out, not worth for me . Thanks
I installed a new clutch slave cylinder today on my 1989 f150 the old style had the clamp fingers the new one has the clip the hose will not connect to the new cylinder no matter how had I press on it but connect to the old one very easy
Have been trying to purchase one of these for a couple weeks. Multiple contact us attempts. Very odd website with no way to purchase and pay online. Almost like they don't want to sell these.
The clip style isn't compatible with the barb type is it?
Thanks so much i thought i got the wrong slave cylinder and was going to have to replace it again. So, glad i watched your video first.
🙏👍Hell yes. Just bought a ls1 with a t56
They cut the line at the transmission. Hopefully it will still disconnect.
The previous owner installed a new clutch in my '94 Bronco before I bought it. 3K miles later the slave cylinder failed, so I bought this one and had a shop install it. 500 miles later it has failed to! Both failed from a leak between the back of the slave cylinder and the front of the trans housing. Any idea's on what could cause this (I replaced the master cylinder and hose as well)?!?
My clutch line popped off today. I cannot get it back in. the slave and master have been replaced in the past. I do not have a sliding grey clip on the male connector. My female connector does not have teeth inside, it has a clip that goes around it and inside of it, like many similar ones. I cannot get the connector to seat back inside of it. It will click and act right but when i press the clutch pedal, it pops right back off. The truck is a 1994 F-150 with a 302 and a M5od transmission. Any advice?
Oh boy I was familiar with vacuum bleeding but I accidentally drained all the fluid in the reservoir using a universal screw on pump that I use for pumping fluid into my transmission. Now my pedals dead and I don't know what to do. Any suggestions? I have a 2001 camaro with 225k miles on her she runs solid but I did the dumb mistake of getting vacuum happy and now the line probably has 100% air in it
perfectionclutch okay so I got my vacuum pump in the mail. Just speaking hypothetically if the line was exposed to a ton of air would it be possible to gravity bleed it with a vacuum pump? That is what I am attempting now, however this time the pedal Springs back after pumping it but I feel no hydraulic pressure whatsoever. I still have not done the two men bleeder system but I am considering it
Does anyone know were i can buy one of those clips and sleeve on there own
same, Im looking
Does anyone know where to get the clip without buying the whole slave assembly?