I worked for hours bleeding my clutch from the slave. Thanks to you, I released the bubbles from the top of my new master cylinder and boom! Perfect pedal on my 94 Saab 900 Commemorative Edition! Thank you!
Wow, like another of your followers, I was perplexed and at the end of my tether by the time I watched you video. I have an old Alfa Romeo Giulia Super and I renewed the clutch slave cylinder but none of the standard methods of bleeding worked at all. I had a buddy to press the pedal etc.... but I also have a vacuum gun the same as yours but used in the normal way did not work at all. Watch your video, went back in the garage and sucked air out of the master cylinder as per your instruction and bingo perfectly working clutch. I don't know how to thank you enough because I read lots of stuff on the forums and watched a couple of youtubes without success, so you saved the day!!I have subscribed and look forward to any future time saving videos...many thanks, Brian
I was at the end of my rope and perplexed because this wasn't my first time with this type of hydraulic TOB. I have a SuperCharged Gen V LT4 with a T56 magnum that I was replacing the clutch on. I knew it was a PITA, but was forging ahead anyway. I tried everything, pressure bleeding, vacuum bleeding and even a direct shot with a syringe. Nothing worked, the pedal was limp, no feel whatsoever. I had watched every video on RUclips except yours, then the light went on. Took me 2 times on top and 2 times on the bottom to finally get the bubbles out and get a decent pedal. Thanks very much for showing me another alternative rather than going nuts............. As a side note, you don't need those expensive $400=$500 dollar TOBs, any standard LS1 ('97-2002 Camaro) will work fine with the T56. I paid $54 for a LUK bearing made in Mexico.
Only works if the small hole at the bottom of the master cylinder is easily accessible. Mine has the hole at a right angle at the bottom in a small recess. Impossible to get to. Otherwise this would work perfect.
Thank you for the great idea. I have an odd shaped reservoir, and can't get a vacuum tip to the bottom. So I made a plug for the top of the reservoir with a vacuum fitting. Will this work just as well? It seems that I should lower the fluid level a little, so the vacuum is only sucking air. Should I instead keep the reservoir full when pulling the vacuum, so that the end of the plug is submerged in fluid?
Nice video! My client's own had a similar issue so I bleed the clutch and still to no avail. I've even replaced only the kit inside the upper clutch but the problem of a sponge clutch and no gear still persist. I've checked scrutingly for signs of leakage carefully while someone pressed the clutch, i found out that the down clutch nipple doesn't hold clutch hydraulic fluid! It goes out gently, and also the clutch fluid was replaced with a new one. Nevertheless, it's still very darkened in color. Please, how do I fix the issues? Darkened fluid, soft clutch pedal, and a most especially the leak at the down clutch bleeder or nipple.
Hello, thanks for the video. I have Fiat Bravo 2 1.6 multijet 105hp. From 1-2 weeks I have an issue with the clutch - when I am going on first and reverse gear the car is vibrating and annoying rasping sound is heard on the front of the car. Sometimes I am not even able to shift the gears and when I turn off the car and pump the clutch and then the car start shifting and driving off without vibrations. Could it be a problem with the clutch release bearing? Or because of old brake fluid and air in the system? Thanks in advance!
This is not my issue ..my issue is after gravity bleeding and adter oressing the oedal and using the same tool to suck the air out i cant seem to put the car into gear..it will shift like a dream for the days and then wont go into gear ....i don't get it
I suspect something like this on my A5. Clutch was not returning, and garage said it had a decent amount of air when they bled it with a "power bleeder". but, a couple of weeks has passed and the it has stuck half way just a couple times. only takes a nudge to make it return but i suspect it will get worse. It seems like a leak somewhere is creating air in the system. does this sound likely?
I worked for hours bleeding my clutch from the slave. Thanks to you, I released the bubbles from the top of my new master cylinder and boom! Perfect pedal on my 94 Saab 900 Commemorative Edition! Thank you!
Wow, like another of your followers, I was perplexed and at the end of my tether by the time I watched you video. I have an old Alfa Romeo Giulia Super and I renewed the clutch slave cylinder but none of the standard methods of bleeding worked at all. I had a buddy to press the pedal etc.... but I also have a vacuum gun the same as yours but used in the normal way did not work at all.
Watch your video, went back in the garage and sucked air out of the master cylinder as per your instruction and bingo perfectly working clutch. I don't know how to thank you enough because I read lots of stuff on the forums and watched a couple of youtubes without success, so you saved the day!!I have subscribed and look forward to any future time saving videos...many thanks, Brian
How did u suck the air out of the matter cylinder....it didn't show it in this video
It does show it in the video, it's what I followed to bleed mine
Great bit of kit, Frank
I was at the end of my rope and perplexed because this wasn't my first time with this type of hydraulic TOB. I have a SuperCharged Gen V LT4 with a T56 magnum that I was replacing the clutch on. I knew it was a PITA, but was forging ahead anyway. I tried everything, pressure bleeding, vacuum bleeding and even a direct shot with a syringe. Nothing worked, the pedal was limp, no feel whatsoever. I had watched every video on RUclips except yours, then the light went on. Took me 2 times on top and 2 times on the bottom to finally get the bubbles out and get a decent pedal.
Thanks very much for showing me another alternative rather than going nuts............. As a side note, you don't need those expensive $400=$500 dollar TOBs, any standard LS1 ('97-2002 Camaro) will work fine with the T56. I paid $54 for a LUK bearing made in Mexico.
Thanks for the comment! I’ll keep that in mind next time!
Only works if the small hole at the bottom of the master cylinder is easily accessible. Mine has the hole at a right angle at the bottom in a small recess. Impossible to get to. Otherwise this would work perfect.
Love your video !!! Thank you. Been pulling my hair out on the damn master. Can’t wait to try this trick to get air out of top !!! Thanks
Thank you for the great idea. I have an odd shaped reservoir, and can't get a vacuum tip to the bottom. So I made a plug for the top of the reservoir with a vacuum fitting. Will this work just as well? It seems that I should lower the fluid level a little, so the vacuum is only sucking air. Should I instead keep the reservoir full when pulling the vacuum, so that the end of the plug is submerged in fluid?
Nice video! My client's own had a similar issue so I bleed the clutch and still to no avail. I've even replaced only the kit inside the upper clutch but the problem of a sponge clutch and no gear still persist.
I've checked scrutingly for signs of leakage carefully while someone pressed the clutch, i found out that the down clutch nipple doesn't hold clutch hydraulic fluid! It goes out gently, and also the clutch fluid was replaced with a new one. Nevertheless, it's still very darkened in color. Please, how do I fix the issues?
Darkened fluid, soft clutch pedal, and a most especially the leak at the down clutch bleeder or nipple.
This is the way I set mine up after changing the master cylinder but I feel I need to bleed it more cool way of doing it
Can you press the clutch in while it has 20psi of vacuum..will it cause damage
You mentioned a "remote bleeder". Where was it attached too?
That is the hose that connects to the slave cylinder, I installed the other end of the hose so I can easily access it.
hello. where can i order a bleeder like the one you are using ? thanks in advance ..
What specifically are you asking about?
Hello, thanks for the video. I have Fiat Bravo 2 1.6 multijet 105hp. From 1-2 weeks I have an issue with the clutch - when I am going on first and reverse gear the car is vibrating and annoying rasping sound is heard on the front of the car. Sometimes I am not even able to shift the gears and when I turn off the car and pump the clutch and then the car start shifting and driving off without vibrations. Could it be a problem with the clutch release bearing? Or because of old brake fluid and air in the system? Thanks in advance!
Can you press the clutch in while its still at 20psi..will any damage be caused
Even on the e36, this is a pain in the backside, without the right tool. Regards, Nico.
This is not my issue ..my issue is after gravity bleeding and adter oressing the oedal and using the same tool to suck the air out i cant seem to put the car into gear..it will shift like a dream for the days and then wont go into gear ....i don't get it
This amazing.. you make it look easy.. Thank you for the tips🤩❤️
Spent hours bleeding my new Hilton TB and new master got no where. Did this and bam nice and bleed
From where can I buy these tool?
I suspect something like this on my A5. Clutch was not returning, and garage said it had a decent amount of air when they bled it with a "power bleeder". but, a couple of weeks has passed and the it has stuck half way just a couple times. only takes a nudge to make it return but i suspect it will get worse. It seems like a leak somewhere is creating air in the system. does this sound likely?
Definitely air in the system
Can you apply this same concept to the brakes as well?
You CAN use a vacuum bleeder for the brakes on each caliper! Absolutely!
Should work all it's doing is speeding the job up
Worth a try. Thanks.
Genius
Tiny bubbles in my 🍺
you could also try using a turkey basting syringe
That won’t have enough vacuum to pull
@@Garageaholic lol dude seriously😅
Hope this saves my ass