BMW, VW, Porsche Clutch Bleeding
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- Опубликовано: 18 янв 2009
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This video is the answer to a common question we receive... "How do I get all the air out of my Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder?" So we have in turn created this video to show you exactly how to Identify and Bleed these components... 
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After seeing this several years ago, I have recommended this method to my friends with Porsche 944 cars. The clutch slave cylinder is positioned in the bell housing in a way the traps an air bubble away from the bleed screw. This method solves that problem. Thanks for making the video!
The recommended process is using a line from the front driver caliper and attaching it to the open bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder and GENTLY pump air out. Two to three pumps will do it. Got this from an Audi repair manual.
Can I flip the car over and bleed it that way?
Almost, ready to go?
Guys over the years I have discovered another to do this, that is to pressurize the system with pressure bleeder to 2 bars and push the pedal back and forth for 20 times in quick succession.
@sphinxx187 Didn't see it mentioned in the video, but in order for this to work, you'll have to have the cap off of the reservoire otherwise you're trying to force new fluid into a closed system and you'll encounter resistence which could push it out through the threads of the bleeder.
I used this method on my 86 Jeep Comanche this morning and it worked perfect. Thank you so much for the advice. I am I guess a back yard mechanic so to speak and love to learn new things that work. I did it one time and it worked perfectly, after having this problem for so long it's a relief to have a clutch that just works. Again thank you for the video. I have subscribed and will spread the word to other folks having the same troubles.
ends the video with, "and your almost ready to go" that makes me feel confident
I must say I hardly ever leave comments but this is the clearest and easiest way I've seen. Definitely super clear instructions.
Dude.. you totally saved my life.. was super frustrated doing the stomp method with friend after switching to a uuc stainless steel braided line and DCV delete.. wound up doing this on slave cylinder, then each section of pipe and line.. pumped the clutch a few times. .and viola.. car: e36 M3.. thanks !!! BTW if anyone is curious, the delay control valve delete was great.. gave me a new found respect for the car..
Mate, you are the man! I have a BMW M635csi, that i have had pressure bled at a shop. I am now in Switzerland where they charge minimum 150 Swiss francs per hour, and just completed a slave cylinder replacment myself. I couldn't even get a fraction of a peddle, after hours. Your trick worked in under five minutes. Remarkably, the brakes feel better too! (maybe on account of new fluid). Thank you so very much for taking the time with this video. Kind regards Kiwi In Switzerland
This is exactly how my VW VR6 manual says to bleed the slave, hook up a line to the driver front brake and pump it until you get clean brake fluid until the end of the hose, then connect to hose to the bleeder on the slave and force the air out to the reservoir. Reservoir cap needs to be off all the time and you might have to top off the reservoir as you are forcing fluid out of the brakes. Great demo, really helpful!
You use the pressure in the brake system to tap into the fitting on the clutch slave and reverse pressure bleed using the brake pedal ? Is that correct
Did it work I’ve installed a new clutch on my VR6 and bled it from a pressure bleeder and the clutch will not engage. You can’t drive. I’m hoping it helps.
Congratulations. Used a container with a pump for liquid soap and rinsed the entire system in 5 minutes. Simple and fast. Thanks for the advice. 👍🏻
Woooooow! You're a genius for putting the whole show together and an instructor for explaining everything in so much detail. I learned the right way to bleed a hydraulic system tonight. Thanks so much and my hat off to you sir.
Right I'm happy I found this video gunna try this method today
Yes, This video and the method used can be used with almost any type of vehicle.
Im surprised with how many different methods their are to doing something so simple. Thank You, yours seemed to work perfect for me.
Big thumbs up - a video that clearly keeps giving. Saved me with a VW clutch when all other approaches failed. Thanks!
I did this today. Got the idea from the video. Worked perfectly and took about 1/10th of the time it would take to bleed the clutch the normal way.
Thank you so much for posting this ! Porsche 928 S4 - I was struggling mightily trying to get the mushy out of the clutch for the first 10 minutes of drive while pressure built up. Power bleeder didn’t work at all - 10 minutes with this process - it’s super tight !!
wow! thank you, i've been having nightmares trying to figure out how to fix my clutch system and this video had given me so many other options, thanks again! :)
This worked in my bmw e36 !! I get my clutch pedal hard as a rock again.
I filled the reservoir with new oil, open the slave bleed valve hoping the new oil to get down and some fluid came out but the reservoir level was the same. At this point i had no clutch pedal pressure.
I put oil in a seringe and pressed the oil from the slave cilinder to the reservoir like shown in this video and it worked!
I bled my clutch using your method after changing master and slave cylinder and it was super easy and fast. Great video!
Did changing these two parts with the bleeding of the system as well, solve your shifting problems?? Having said issue with an e46 bmw..just wondering, because i have changed the slave cylinder but still waiting for master cylinder in mail. Will be using this method to bleed the system..
@@mrstamped1316 Yes, it did. But, in my case, the clutch disc and pressure plate were new (replaced few month before).
If you replace master and slave cylinder and still have shifting problems, it might be the pressure plate.
@@manuelvieru1363 my clutch is fine, maybe 5k miles on it. I'm sure it's a hydraulic system failure. But thanks for getting back to me, I appreciate it !
1973 Unimog 406...going to try this technique for brakes and then the master cylinder. I hope that I have the same success. Thank you for posting!
Thanks for your comments. Both systems are independent and would require separate bleeding in this manner both forcing the air to the shared reservoir, providing the cap is off to allow the hand pump to move the air without building up pressure. The air which always rises up would not flow into the opposing system. it would be expelled through the open reservoir or be trapped inside if the cap was not removed. The bleeder valve screw allows the system to be bled without removing the cap.
Thank you !!! This actually worked! I was going have my transmission dropped and inspected because I thought the slave was failed located inside heat housing
The ONLY way of replacing the clutch fluid! Simple and easiest way of doing it. Thanks a lot for the vid!
This is brilliant! Much better than pulling the master plunger or using a messy vacuum system! Rocket science!
Thanks for posting this. Was having a real hell of a time getting the clutch on my 2014 tdi to bleed. This bled it in about 30 seconds.
Thank you. Great video. Love the filling the line with fluid rather than bleeding it. Just what I was looking for.
I just used this method for my 2011 golf. worked great. Tried applying pressure from the top, no luck. tried to suck it through with vacuum, no luck. This worked within minutes. good thing I had a bran new Swiss Reilang oil can in the cupboard.
Thanks for the video, this is how we bleed brakes on motorcycles. I’ve moved onto obsessing over classic vw’s now as I’ve gotten older! I use disposable veterinary syringes for this job, can get at any vet or farm shop, less than a euro each
I replaced my E60 545i Primary cylinder, Secondary cylinder and Upgraded to ECS stainless Steel Clutch Line all at once... ( BAD idea as far as "air in the system" goes...)...I Spent hours that day...Went to Autozone to grab an oil can such as this, it was rock solid about 30 minutes later... This was the key, for immediate action and solution. My comment should remove all doubt, if you are in...Thank You for the Video
Awesome video, thank you. I like how informative your explanations about the whole system are.
Huge help, Thank you!
Just bubbled out the clutch for my 2004 MINI Cooper S
Things I learned: MINI uses a 10mm wrench - - Get a pump without paint (the brake fluid dissolves it and you get flakes in the fluid)
no air went into your brakes, or ABS?
After doing that you could push the slave cylinder in and out and use it like a pump and push any air out of the system, this way shown is a great way to expel most air and quickly fill the system. The reason I say most air,is with those pumps they usually create small bubbles during the squeezing action.
doing this for years with a big syringe. never fails ...you can even do with clutch pedal in downt position and pedal will pop up just before fully bled and you can do by urself dn with no helper
This ended up being the only thing that worked to bleed my e28 535 clutch slave. Thanks a bunch
OMG, flipping brilliant!!! I feel like an idiot right now, I have been doing it the wrong way for years. Never again. Man that is an excellent sweet demonstration. Good job man!!! Wow just Wow :o Thank you!!!
Good morning my boss, I have to thank you, after eight days looking for the video that will really help me fix my car (honda civic 2001) you appear and in two hours I am, thank you very much
I used this method to bleed my clutch and brakes. Took 20 min. Amazing.
Excellent video very well explained . I'm going to change my brake lines on BMW 750LI (2008) I have purchased all required material and tools Thanks for posting the video.
This is exactly what I was searching for. Thank you so much for the video
Thanks for the video, a great demonstration on how the system works.
I just wanna say, after using this method a half dozen times, it's by FAR the best way to bleed brakes if you're doing a master or a line or something where there's lots of air in the system.
I still use a pressure bleeder from the top if I'm doing a caliper or slave, but for doing anything else, this works great! Huge thanks!
@vr6wings I would go by the manual's instructions, but general rule of thumb is to start bleeding at the furthest point away from the reservoir and work your way closer.
perfect explanation and description of the system, Thank You
It worked like a charm on my 2003 R53. I tried a couple of different ways to bleed the system and none of them worked very well. I tried this method and it worked. I'm finally back on the road. I hated the thought of taking it in to a shop!
Awesome information! You save me a lot of time, money and frustration. It worked like a charm on my 2004 VW Jetta. Thank you so much!!!
On your R53 did you have to compress the piston on the slave cylinder?
Wow, what a fantastic video. Thank you so much!
That's the best thing I've ever seen as far as bleeding thank you for the videos very well spoken
I just rebuilt the slave cylinder from my Porsche....this will be helpful. I bled the clutch system the traditional way in the past and it took forever.
awsome video. this saved me so much hassle. Thank you for posting. worked 100% and took 5 mins well done
Excellent technique. So easy. Thanks for sharing!!!
Fantastic video, thank you. I bought your oil pump can as well because of this. Works great
Thank you for your VERRI GOOD METHOD. My old pic-up S15 1990 clutch works verry good now. The transmission shift verry good now. :)
Love this video such an awesome demonstration
Thank you so much I have a 944 just replace clutch cylinder. And I can see from the comments this will work plus it make since..
this helped me big time i was stuck for hours with a isuzu amigo and the bleeder points downward i even tried unhooking it and pointing it upwards no pedal pressure, i tried this and problem solved in 5 minutes
Nice clear video with good sound. Thanks.
Sorry if others already asked, but how do you know if a small air pocket continues in the slave cylinder? Also, if the bleed nipple thread is worn, then can there be air sucked into the system as you pump on the oil can? I noted you only have the bleed nipple open a small amount which might offset this "problem".
Just verifying, you should have the fluid reservoir cap off in the engine bay, and the clutch pedal should be all the way out. It sounds like the piston in the slave is in the way or there is something keeping pressure on the line.
An excellent demonstration 👍
Had to change the clutch master cylinder in my e30 and tried this method of putting clutch fluid into the system. This method works brillaintly and the only hassle is having to check if the fluid has yet reached the reservoir when on your own. Very helpful video.
Did you put some fluid into the reservoir before hand like he did? This didn’t work for me on my e30. It built enough pressure for my clutch pedal to return on it’s own, but not enough pressure to shift gears
@@marcolopez2111 No, I didnt but worked great and my system was completely drained----sorry, only seeing this now--you may have an issue with your master cylinder.
@@marcolopez2111 as @John McShera alluded to, the cylinder twins are typically replaced together. Learned that the hard way on my last E30. Now that I'm having to do it on my current E30, I'm just taking care of them both at once & saving myself the inevitable headache in three months.
Neat video! Thanks for helping to explain how this works.
ive got a bleeder valve on the upper cyl ..should i crack that or what?
thanks
Wow thank you for this video!! So so useful!!!
Very professional and descriptive. But would this work with a brake vacuum bleeder kit? I was thinking about “force” bleeding it with a pump from down below at the slave. Thanks !
Great video. Good tip with the oil can.
great video, this was extremely helpful
This is the one thing I haven't tried. I hope this works jetta has been sitting for over a month already pulled trans to find nothing wrong
great video! a better way to fill the system from the bottom up. I wouldn't have thought of that.
Going to try this 2000 Toyota Coaster after putting new clutch in and pumping clutch trying to bled and still my clutch is soft and weak and stays nearly down tothe floor after changing gears, still drivable but doesn’t seem right. Clutch pops up after a short while.
Brilliant cheers dude greetings from London.
Where did you get your small oil can ? I've been bleeding my clutch with a motive power bleeder forcing air out of the slave, I got no more air bubbles coming out but I believe there could be some air trap somewhere because my clutch engage when the pedal is almost at the top.
Some cars like mine Chrysler Grand Voyager manual stick gear (European) hasnt bleeder screw , its closed system.
How do you get air out of these systems ?
You've forgotten the flexible hose, which can bite by a marten ....after that you can drive for a while (1200 - 1700) km, you'll not have leaking break fluid on the hose, but it is air in the system! Those leaks ar like a Ventil. If you don't have a new hose you can seal it with Tesa Extreme Repair....do it double ...after them you can bleed the self bleeding system by master cylinder ....the air bubbles will lose over the reservoir ...ready after 15 min....no problem😂 I did it last week in a garage in poland, they sayd I' ve a big problem with the clutch, not with my hose. My own repair was ready after 3 hours and I was back on the road again.
Would it be equally as effective to pull a vacuum at the reservoir and feed brake fluid into the slave bleeder screw?
I thought there was a little play in the clutch pedal of my m roadster. Now the pedal goes all the way to the floor and I can't drive my car at all until I get a pressure bleeder in the mail. I even tried a large syringe to force fluid through. I can see the reservoir fill up, but the clutch does not engage when I push the pedal. I would advise to only try this if you also have a pressure bleeder as a backup!
@sphinxx187
you should try teflon/thread seal tape. i had the identical problem and solved it that way.
best regards,
Phil
Can i do this on the bleed nipple of the calipers if i want to replace my brake master cylinder.
I decided to use this method of bleeding on my saab 93 but it just kept blowing the hose off the bleed nipple. I removed the bleed nipple and found there was a small rubber stopper on the bottom end which acted as a non return valve. I removed this and was then able to reverse bleed. When all the air was through i replaced it and then peddle bleeded to get the air from in the nipple.
Will this work for A 2007 Nissan 350z i replace clutch, clutch line and Slave Cylinder everything was done I started bleeding it traditional way pumping then holding and breaking free the bleeder that over and over and the pedal got firm I took it for a test drive it felt good but the next day it was sunk to the floor I thought it leaked out so I check the clutch reservoir and it was full the way I left the night before has anyone been through this or know what could be going on why did sink after I bleed it and it was firm on the test drive
Hello 528im52. I have a 1997 BMW 328ic. I have replaced both the clutch slave and the clutch master cylinder. I have firm pedal and is great while vehicle is off. I turn on the vehicle, and the pedal goes to the floor and pedal is slack. I reverse bled the system. Any help would be appreciated. Is it true that you have to have the service indicator light reset. Could that be the problem? I also have ASC control, limited slip differential.
If you try this, and it does not work, you will have to find out if there is a non-return valve in the system. I used to bleed brake systems like this, by pumping fluid 'backwards', but when I tried it on the cluch of my 1974 VW 412, it did not work! It took a bit of experimentation to figure out that there was a valve that allowed fluid to go to the slave cylinder, but not the other way.
If you cant find the leak, could you close the brake fluid cap and see if you pumping in the bottom pushes brake fluid out somewhere? I think my fluid is leaking. The pedal stopped returning to normal position. It was bled and it seemed to be better. But now it seems to be starting again. first time it stuck occasionaly and got worse and it has only stuck a couple times but I expect it to get worse.
Should the clutch pedal be pushing in or out? Planning to do this for my 944
Does this method work on a 2006 VW Jetta TDI? My clutch pedal is sticky and sometimes it won't come back up all the way by itself. I have an oil can, fluid and all the gadgets, but just wondering, if this is going to work on my vehicle. Some people here claim that this method does not work for VW.
Please, what are the symptoms of air in the system? Does the the clutch plate not engage fully, or is the clutch pedal just soft?
My 98 E36 323i creaks every time I depress the clutch pedal. Do you think bleeding the system could silent the creak?
thanks mate..yesturday i was replace both i bluid 1 hour i cant take air out toady i try like that
Does it make a difference if the slave cylinder is compressed on your setup it seems relaxed.
Thanks for the video.
not yet im gonna do it tomorrow and im gonna take the slave cylinder out,and service it.some teflon around the threads of the bleeder HOPE that helps or fix the problem
Where do I get the 3mm flex line? Thanks.
@528im52 or whoever else has tried this. Will this technique also work for bleeding brake lines?
This video is a blessing
Thank you very much, best video.
hello i have the same problem as sphinxxx , i put the oiler under the level of the slavecylinder,clear hose and loose 1 turn the bleeder and fluid kept coming out from the threads,i pull out the whole damn bleeder and try to insert fluid and made a mess..I thought something is bloking the flow but how i can fix that without removing the hole system,,,I cant put pressuaried air cause could be worst right?
Hi... Can we use this way to bleed the brake? Thanks
@528im52 Don't do this if you have ABS. ABS is made to go one way, not to go backwards. It doesn't mean you WILL break it, but there is a possibility it could malfunction.
Can anyone recommend a good hand bleeder? I’ve searched all over the internet and do not know which one will work.
I have been thinking next.When the engine is idling what is the release bearing doing?Is it stopped or is it running?Is there clearance between the bearing and the clutch pressure plate?
Best Regards seppo.
Can you explain why the bleeder is below the intake line ?
What vehicle year, make, and model do you have?
That seems strange, if this was happening it means that something is blocking the fluid flow.
I'm about to try this method, hopefully this works.