After many sram failures ive "de-sram'd" all my bikes in favor of xt xtr and saint, couldn't be happier. Shimano just keeps working and working and imo has much better feel and shifting under power is amazing
T-type is pretty sensitive to being setup properly, but fortunately it's a ridiculously simple process, and when setup right works beautifully. Mine started to develop an issue with the chain dropping gears when I back pedaled in 3rd gear. Just in case anyone else encounters the same, double check that your chain is properly tensionsed (in the A/B setup mode for your frame) in the setup gear, with the rear mech torqued to 35Nm - that solved it for me and it's been perfect since.
I came to the same conclusion. I also bent my cage outward. After manually straightening the cage a few times I ended up buying a new one. Shifting is still amazing.
I did EXACTLY the same thing to my XO Transmission derailleur. $146 USD cage. I can't help but think with a traditional derailleur, I'd have bent the hangar instead of the cage, and been out $15 if it wasn't repairable...
I have to say depends on bike, I loved my old mountain bike before stolen, only issue is most bikes was like £5 where for my one took some time to find right one was £26 last time I brought the hangar
Chances are if you hit the actual pulley cage you would have bent the cage and possible the hanger, also if you had bent the outer part of the cage on a mechanical it is technically not replaceable, and you would have to buy a hole new mech. One key thing left out of this video is that you don't have to replace the cage with the one from the same model, if you want to save some money you could replace the cage with the one for XO or GX. Also I could replace my T type cage many times over for what it has saved me in chains and cassettes on my ebike, it really does last, I have over 1000 miles on my current chain, and it's still less than .5 wear.
Though the year I'd put 5000 miles on Campy road chains. I'd hope for 1000 miles on Shimano XT/XTR for mountain chains. Pretending Sram "innovated" here is laughable. I specifically stopped ridding Sram because the bottom brackets are trash. I didn't hate the shifting or shifters, but seems weird to buy a system over such supposed tiny improvements. Give me reliable and durable all day everyday.
Though the year I'd put 5000 miles on Campy road chains. I'd hope for 1000 miles on Shimano XT/XTR for mountain chains. Pretending Sram "innovated" here is laughable. I specifically stopped ridding Sram because the bottom brackets are trash. I didn't hate the shifting or shifters, but seems weird to buy a system over such supposed tiny improvements. Give me reliable and durable all day everyday.
Few years from now this will likely be standard, and there'll be something else that's new and 'revolutionizing' with a super steep price tag. Most time rushing to get the latest thing is not worth it, the trails are still the same.. ..Always found it hilarious that people kept saying that this thing wouldn't bend, the leverage from the lowest point to the mount is still huge, why wouldn't it bend lol, just maybe less than previous gen. All about those MONIES tho, of course
The other trade off you didn't mention regarding shifting speed is that while it is slower than a the old eagle, you don't let off the power when shifting with transmission. so while you can dump the gears in the old eagle very quickly you can't put any power down during that shift, while with t type you can keep pushing all the way through. this completely changes the pedaling technique you can use.
Never had an issue shifting under power with Eagle. It's simply better with transmission though. *I'm a lousy mountain biker, but I am a strong, 88kg cat1 on the road so I'm certainly putting power down
I was running the AXS X0 on my SC Bullit, when arbitrarily during shifting under load the rear mech just failed. It failed so hard that it bent the rear derailleur. This was on a ride so very unfortunate. What folks don’t realize is that the spring tension on the AXS rear derailleur is strong enough to oppose the rear derailleur and bend it. I had no idea this could happen. The rear unit basically bricked and had to be replaced by SRAM by way of my local bike shop where purchased. This has happened to other folks also, so not a one time occurrence because of rider error. I bought the T-Type because of this issue to see if in fact this would be beneficial for an eMTB rig with +85nm. So far the T-Type appears to be a rock crusher. No lag or slippage of any king during long and grueling technical climbs with the Bullit. With the chain line on the SC Bullit built around the eventuality of the 55mm requirement, seems SC has been in the know for some time. I think a company that has been pushing the boundaries knows and so awesome to have purchased a rig that is still comfortably set inside horizon specifications and technologies! 🤘🏼
The only reason I use electronic system is due to ergonomics and light action, cus my thumb misaligns, locks up during shifts, which can be very painful. I suspect the Sram paddle remote will work the best for me, as it is similar ergonomically to Archer D1xtrail paddle remote, which I have, sadly Archer Components is going out of business. So I need a solution for the future. I had to put the shifter from my shopping bike to my enduro bike as it failed, and as it's gen 1 they can't fix it, due to tooling and parts. And Gen2 is out of stock. But the paddle remote had perfect ergonomics for me. But looks like I'm forced to go for Sram AXS if I will use my Garbaruk cassette or anything else, and have possibility of swapping parts, getting a easy fix. But I still don't know if I can set it up for 11 speed.
Thanks for the honest review - I was curious about how this thing would play out long-term. The component replacement cost reminds me of what my dad would say when he was in the RV business - "If you have to ask about the gas mileage, you can't afford it."
Thanks. We do have some exciting news about the cost of replacement parts. Watch our next MBR show next Sunday or look out on the website next week for more info.
Not related but i had xtr derailleur with archer components electronic shifting and the motor burned in the archer shifter after just a year the cie said no warranty only a deal on a new one so i put back my xtr mechanical shifter goes real good easyer to fix in the trails if something goes wrong and i like the feel 😊
You can buy the cage assembly without the clutch for much less money, many (online) dealers just don't list the part. But you can definitely get it.. I should know, I'm on my 3rd one in 6 months.
My problem is I have upgraded my Levo cranks to use the 5Dev aluminum, which is not compatible with the T type transmission system. I think I’m going to wait for a solution. I could be holding my breath for a long time I guess.
Its a good system and i like the action of it but with the price tag at the moment its not within reach if most people. I have ridden bikes with T type and to be honest didnt think it was worth the money. They do last well by this test through 👌 great video @mbr
I've been wondering how well these will hold up long-term without a sacrificial derailleur hanger, and it seems the answer is, surprisingly well. Although replacement parts are still significantly more expensive than derailleur hangers, and I'm still not sold on the idea that you need to keep a battery charged in order to ride your bicycle.
One issue I had was snow freezing up in the mech so half way through a ride I couldn’t shift. A pokie stick sorted it but just a funny thing to happen.
Afrer 4 years on eagele AXS and 7 months on T-Type I do like the T-Type better as it seems more rubust and I have gone through 2 Eagle AXS Derallieurs in the past. It is slower to change than eagle but it hasn't missed a beat. I have gone through several versions of the remote and now have the pod which I prefer for it's adjustability. Is it worth the money, maybe not but if it comes on your new bike it will be a bonus.
You use wrong tool to measure chain wear. That's CC-3.2 right? From Parktool's page: "*Use the CC-4 for SRAM® Flattop™ and SRAM® T-Type 12-speed chains."
It's possible the chain is worn so little that it doesn't show the difference on both checkers. Parktool's staff writes CC-3.2 doesn't work because SRAM's flat top chains have larger roller diameter so it will show less wear than CC-4. Ride to the point where CC-4 shows 0.5 wear and then measure it with CC-3.2. It should show it's less than 0.5 still.
Bent my gx T type lower cage in less than 300 miles , the lower cage without the damper is now about to be released end of DEC 2024 around £28, I had to straighten the plates as best i could then use the micro adjust in the sram app to keep myself goign as I didnt fancy buying the expensive cage with damper
My XO T-type cassette is worn out at just 900 miles , I checked my first chain last week and it’s over 0.5 but under 0.75 so well within sram 0.8 recommendations. But after fitting a new chain it’s slipped over the teeth on gear 7th when under load ,all other gears are fine . I spoke to sram tech guy and he said the gear 7th is worn out ! I’m constantly changing gears and rarely in any gear for long . So after just 900 miles I need a new cassette and chain costing £780 . I got more miles out of my standard sram eagle gx drive train like almost twice the miles . This is on the same e-bike in the same conditions ams use
That is really disappointing… I have both the approved Park Tool CC-4 and the Sram Chain check tool. I have a chain which falls in with the Sram tool which is supposed to be 0.8 When I check with the Parktool it doesn’t even go into the 0.5 So I would rather check with the Sram tool or at least use 0.5 instead of 0.8 with a non Sram chain checker. I am at 1600km now and still well below 0.5 with both Parktool and Sram.
I have the GX AXS on one of my mountain bikes and I absolutely love it. The best part about it is that I can set it up so I can press and hold the rocker and shift through all the gears very quickly. It's the one feature I love, otherwise I might as well go back to cables and pressing the lever rapidly to get through the gears. So if Transmission doesn't offer the same feature of going from top to bottom and back in one press within 2 or 3 seconds I have zero interest in the system.
That was actually my favourite feature of old AXS, and I do miss it sometimes. Despite that, I will say that overall, I'm super satisfied with the switch, mostly cos the chain noise from the old AXS rear mech bouncing around was killing me.
When the heck do you need to change 8+ gears within seconds on the trail?? Unexpected terrain changes on unfamiliar trails could be the exception, though having simple predictability and shifting BEFORE you enter a sharp variation in vertical trail variation is at most an intermediate skill.
Would be good to see what could be done in the way of shift quality by taking t types direct mount and using cables instead of axs from the sounds of things the tech that makes this better is in the chain and cassette and not the shifter and mech’s electronics
I have had my ‘24 Santa Cruz Heckler SL with the t-type XO transmission, since February. Broke the first cage in half on the second ride just by clipping it when I lost balance on a relatively low skinny stockade. Barely 200 miles later, and I just bent #2 by doing the same thing. This is getting expensive. Installing #3 today.
Issue is I just got a CC frame Santa Cruz hightower and they done away with the Internal and you have to use wireless. It's upsetting and now I'm stressing about a massive cost for wireless.
1200km on Levo is just 3-5 months of riding.... any way, think about upgrading your drivetrain to trusty XT M8000 - costs 80 quids? and cassette another 80 ?
You guys are killing it at the moment. I possibly think the reason you bent the cage externally is due to it being pre-bent in that direction. So when it receives an impact to the bottom of the cage, it continues in that direction.
3000km out of the cassette? That is to low to be honest, but i ques it depends on the maintenance, as i usually swap my cassette after 10000km, but after every ride i am cleaning the chain and the cassette.
I have mounted that same transmission, it works perfectly but the original chain guide is not suitable for that chainring. I have seen that you do not mount it, probably the same problem. Is there a solution?
4:27 I initially thought the same thing and was incredibly frustrated... quick undulating terrain can become unridable in some cases. HOWEVER I later figured out that if you shift quickly, but not *too quickly*, you can actually get it to drop & climb the cassette at comparable speeds to older models. There seems to be some sort of "limp mode" triggered if you try shifting past a certain rate. Play around with it and you'll find the threshold, it can shift much quicker than in the video. I actually had a long running support ticket open with sram to figure out why this is the case, but was never able to get any information from them. I understand why they would would want to set a hard limit on shift speed, but its unclear to me why in order to get the mech to hit that limit you have to shift *slower*. Maybe you guys would be able to get some info from sram about it :)
Had an old cable operated drive train on my DH bikes for the last 8 years, can't believe my shifter is starting to fail. Luckily the one one on my trail bike is still going, 10nsoeed, good old zee mech I bought 2nd hand. My ROi is significantly better than new boutique tech for the sake of tech and selling something.
6:18 I wouldn't replace the cage unless it snapped, I would've taken it apart, put each plate on a flat surface and used a hammer to straighten it out. With Shimano 10 speed rear derailleur from years ago, it worked well, it shifted perfectly afterwards. Even managed to sell the cage afterwards.
Admittedly, I haven't tried transmission, but I'm somewhat perplexed by its appeal. I ride a regular mtb and not an emtb. I'm not constantly shifting, and I've never had problems shifting under load. For context, I like in greater Vancouver, BC. Typically, I ride up to ride down, and I'm on 73kg. I could see this system being good for an emtb where there is potential for more torque. For regular MTB, for me, at least, it seems to be a fix to a problem that doesn’t really exist.
@Durwood71 I very rarely touch my derailleur cable. To me, that advantage is offset by checking batteries and remembering to charge them. When you factor in cost, it seems like a very minimal gain.
@@briannyob7799 Agreed, electronic derailleurs offer a minimal advantage at best as even a cable actuated derailleur can give you trouble free performance for a very long time with only occasional adjustment to the cable tension. Of course there's the added simplicity of not having to maintain a physical connection between the derailleur and shifter, making for easier setup and a cleaner cockpit, but then that is offset by the complexity of a wireless electronic system in and of itself and the need to always keep a battery charged.
I have both electric and cable on different bikes and also don't use my gears like a gorilla so I don't have problems under load. Electric gears are really nice to use because the shifting is so precise. It doesn't really solve a problem just gives a more refined experience. I don't get frustrated when I ride the cable gears, it just feels luxuriously crisp when I ride the axs bike.
I have the GX AXS on my commuter and an X01 AXS on my Trailbike. I must admit that the shifting performance is only a marginal gain compared to my 11 Speed cable XT on my Enduro Bike. It's a nice gimmick, but not really worth the money. I like the T-Type and I'm also tempted to change, but let's be honest: I crashed ONE derailleur over the last 10000 kilometers and replacement costs me 80 Euros for an XT option. The upcharge is massive and well adjusted cable systems work almost perfectly.
T-Type AXS is a noticeable shift upgrade over old AXS. And we have news about a MUCH cheaper option for repairing a bent cage. Stay tuned for this week’s MBR show for the info 👍
Is XX T type the top end kit. To be honest the Sram groupsets confuse me. I like the names like: Record - Super Record, makes it easier to know which it top end.
Thanks, I'm probably uniquely stupid. I can get how xxsl is higher grade to xx but xo v's xx. I just think their marketing team could have come up with more logical names.
Have you got it more in detail? Bit I'm confused on is what frame looks like that accepts a UDH (how looks without hangar) I'm looking at a bike frame but from pictures can't tell, it is the DIY frame of Trek Slash
UDH will bolt into the frame where the axle threads into the drive side - it is the thread for the axle. If you Google SRAM UDH images you’ll find loads.
@@MBRmagazine okay thanks, I have googled it before and tried to see in videos how it actually mounts but it always been unclear to me Guess I probably go with transmission then, it basically as I couldn't see clearly how it worked to mount that was unsure, with all older derailleur I'm like that's the derailleur hangar that bolt to frame, with transmission I was like what?
So look closely at your frame, remove your current derailleur, and your rear wheel. If the mech hanger attached to the frame with a small screw, it’s a UDH. If you have to loosen a large 10mm hex bolt that covers the entire axle end cap, it’s a UDH. I’ll drop a link to one of our articles here that shows a UDH hanger removed.
150% agree about the shifter pod. I have the rocker type on my full suspension bike and my new Pro-caliber has the pod with matchmaker clamp. I'm now in the process of ordering a rocker paddle, due to the lack of adjustment and difficulty reaching the pod, which is not ideal on a race bike! Looks like a mega fail by the SRAM design team.
Can u say me something about battery? More people reacts about life on one full charge (lowest than old Eagle) is that true? Full battery max range? TY for your experience.
I put 1100 miles on my old cable shifter gx. But I had an extra 12s cassette shifter and derailuer laying. Just had to buy a chain which was 32 bucks. Still cheaper to fix with old cable shifter systems. But may switch back to the original axs eagle I had on my other bike when this drive train goes out. Not sure tho
Not sure if this is true but the chain checker you’re using is no good for that chain! I checked mine every month and it was completely fine but when the chain started to jump and eventually snapped I got another chain, that started jumping and was a complete nightmare! Long story short the cassette was toast! When I was calling around to get a new cassette I spoke to someone who had heard that normal chain checkers don’t work as they had had the same issue, I’ve bought the new checker and a GX cassette (£199) instead of the XX. Apart from this problem it’s worked flawlessly on my Bosch performance CX motor, I am at around 2,000klm on the motor but I was using my old XO1 axs for a few months until I fitted T type. Couldn’t find anything on the sram site but the new checker shows a flat topped chain on it!
Yes you're right, the chain checker shown in the video isn't correct for T-Type. We found out after filming and got hold of the correct one. When we re-measured it the wear was exactly the same. 👍
Yes I have XX Transmission on my Trek Supercaliber. After a few rides with the Transmission Controller I switched the shifter to the Rocker Controller. Huge improvement.
@@MBRmagazine IMO the Leap Components Quickshift works the best (it most closely mimics a traditional shifter, left side for easier, right side for harder). The Rocker still caused an unwanted shift as one buttom is higher and deeper, where the downshift is normally lower and deeper, and the other is higher but shallower, where the upshift is normally lower but shallower).
Yes, also. The range thing is a weird one to me, I currently have a XT 10-45 cassette with a 32 tooth chainring, I live in a mountainous Canadian area and I've never had issues with range, I pedal up everything I encounter... But apparently I still need more range 😂
I have XT on one bike, and SLX on the other, riding them I forget they are any different. Both work great. If I break the SLX mech on a rock, its not that big a deal.....the EMTB 12 speed shimano cassette can be found for 39.99 if you hunt a little .
I'm still debating... I'm about to build a really nice new Nomad and I know how perfect the old 2014 X01 11spd drivetrain was, which was slightly better than my current 11spd XTR drivetrain. so My debate is between a new X01 cable 12spd or the AXS... thats a lot of money to add to a drivetrain that I imagine already works flawlessly
3000 km with a cassette? You’re probably doing something wrong. I've replaced about 3 11-tooth cogs and one 13-tooth cog on my CS-M8000 cassette since 2018. I use wax and rotate through 6 chains, each used for 300 km before cleaning. Only this fall did I have to replace two because they had reached 75% wear. I also use them on my gravel bike with an CS-HG800 cassette. As for the mileage, Strava says my MTB have a little over 15,000 km.
Chain stretch is measured on the top and with the pedals/chain under pressure, possibly on two different point of the chain length. Everything else is wrong.
Been wondering if the new Vivid Ultimate fits a Levo comp carbon, and this video seems to confirm that it does?! Is there a specific shock/ tune for the Levo or is this a std off the shelf part? Cheers!
I believe the idea was to sell specific off-the-shelf tunes for popular bikes, so there should be one for the Turbo Levo. I’ll ask SRAM but getting an answer may take a while, so worth contacting your local suspension service/tuning centre.
Thanks for this! I just looked on the TF Tuned website, and they do show a specific Levo tuned shock. £800 is asking a bit much though to be honest, think I'll wait for a better deal to materialize. I have a Zeb ultimate up front so would be nice to have the matching rear.@@MBRmagazine
I have X01 cable on one bike and GX AXS on another. Both work flawlessly and I see no need to spend ridiculous sums of money to change to T Type. Im afraid I see T Type as a last ditch attempt to sweat more money out of brands and riders realizing that the day of 100 year old plus chain/derailleur/cassette combo is coming to an end.
Not really fair to complain about cost of XX cage. You can buy just the inner and outer in the US for $36/each. You can always throw on the GX cage and save a pile. They're interchangeable. I also never go from one end of the cassette the other. Generally just one or two at a time, and so I'll take this new system as a big improvement.
That park tool 3.2 chain checking tool doesnt work on t type chains and will be giving you a massive red hearing on wear .you need a CC-4 . I bet that chain is way past its limit .
@@TheSpaceBrosShow well I still have my normal mtb with xx1 AXS drive train, my emtb just arrived yesterday with a shimano XT setup so I thought putting the shimano XT stuff on my mtb and xx1 on the emtb or sell the xx1 stuff and put the new XO transmission on it. What would you recommend?
@a.w.mmathijssen7517 sell the xt and get a GX upgrade kit for the eeb. XX1 is a waste on an ebike imo. You are saving grams on something that is always going to be heavy and if you are anything like me, then you tend to bash around a bit more on an ebike than a nice normal bike so GX is perfect.
Are you sure, that tool works for measuring this Sram's chain wear? Previous models had rollers bigger size, so this tool was useless. 0.5 was falling only when real weat was up to 1.
@@MBRmagazine Since it somehow still "works" which is insane. ive taken my time, but im going to try to take it somewhere where they can handle bending appropiately if i can find it. Do you have any idea on how to repair it? Since my bike has a couple of weeks and other details im thinking about warranty.
Are you talking a 'regular' rear mech, or a T-Type mech? If the former, then you may be able to find a replacement cage, but it's probably better in the long run to buy a new one rather than throwing good money after bad.
over 1000km and still using specialised tyres? ik you can buy more of them but would you not buy a more traditional tyre brand when you have to replace them?
hey brother nice content!! i thought that the sram cranks are not compatible with this bike since the fram offset on specialized, they work, but they make the q factor a bit weird, what do u think?
Thanks! There’s another comment saying the same thing about the cranks, but our bike was built by SRAM, so it can’t be that bad. Also the system was developed and tested using the Turbo Levo. We’ll reach out to them and find out though 👍
I had an X9/SLX mix back in the 2x9 days. Since then I've been on 11 speed XT and it's been flawless. I've recently moved to GX eagle and I can't say I'm a fan. No instant release, cassettes that strip freehubs and cost £180 each, a derailleur that sticks out way more than it should. I think I'll go back to shimano :(
Funny. I have 3 bikes all running Shimano 12 speed XT and my Fat Bike has SRAM GX Eagle on it. Every time I get on my Fat Bike I am always impressed with how much better it shifts than the Shimano systems I have. And the SRAM system, being that it's on my Fat Bike, goes through much harsher conditions than any of the Shimano setups I have. I like both systems and I tend to work with the one that comes with the bike. Although I do think SRAM shifts better than Shimano and I have never had issues with it stripping out anything.
@ShadLife I do like the solid clunk I get from a shift on the GX, but the XT shifter is far superior IMO. I might be comparing across tiers there though, which isn't fair. Have you not had any issues when replacing a sram cassette? The torque spec is 40nm which just seems ridiculous to me. Perhaps it's the Newmen freehubs I'm running that are causing my issues.
@@howarddavies136 It does seem like a lot of torque, but I haven't had an issue with anything stripping. I do however hate removing a cassette with that much torque on it and it also seems unnecessary since it's notched.
Your problem isn't Sram it's 12 speed. The clearances are so tight and the cage needs to be so long that they will never be as reliable as 11 speed. Shimano's 12 speed derailleurs will disappoint you compared to their reliable 11 speed ones too. And Microspline has created an unnecessary headache for compatibility and Cassette choice.
The price of this T Type system is extortionate. SRAM is probably making about 60x profit per unit, at least. Anyone with mass production manufacturing experience will know what I’m talking about with something so simple as a chain. There’s no reason the flat top should double the price whatsoever. There’s a profit margin, and then there’s price gouging. You can buy a tonne of top quality steel raw material for what they are charging for a single cassette! I hope this triggers gearboxes development, bringing down the price and then SRAM can get stuffed with their £100 chains and £600 cassettes. I’d gladly pay good money on a gearbox and belt drive that only needs an oil change every 3 years or so instead of this. Us bikers have been absolutely rinsed these past few years.
SRAM mechs are terrible ! Not designed for MTB, look at their sizes !! Gargantuan! I was hitting some rocks on every ride ! I've upgraded my drivetrain to trusty M8000 XT mech on my Levo and Sentinel, no strikes any more, no probs !!
It could be the most crisp shifter perfect system it's still 600$ for a cassette. I already hear the apologists: "But you kneow, on a 10k bike a 600$ cassette is justified" Sure sure, have a Yeti, suck on it
I agree. I "could" afford to run some exotic drivetrain like this, but I wont. If you know how to shift a mt bike, a basic SLX shimano works really well, no problem at all. Quick and quiet shifts. Its more about getting the shifting done the right way, not under full load.
You have to shave 2mm off that sram chain ring to get the required 55mm chain line On the specialized Levo cause the off set of the motor will make the chain line 57mm which will cause problems shifting into the lower gears. I have done this and it shifts perfect now!
riders that don't do Kamakazi downhills , as in huge drops , high speed, and aerial acrobatics , don't need the new tech that is presented here and in ads by the bike industry . the big extra cost cannot be justified on the basis of the small increase in performance especially for those that don't ride as mentioned above. there MAY come a day when the cost comes down from the stratosphere, but until then i'll keep my ' old tech' hardtail .
You can apply that logic to pretty much any product. And while it is true that the law of diminishing returns does create a level of component where the price/performance balance finds a natural equilibrium, that doesn’t stop people wanting, and purchasing, high tech products.
Industry is very skilled at blurring the lines between need and want . i have no problem with 'want' but i do have a problem with being encouraged to buy something on the basis of hyperbole .
I got the AXS T-Type on my Trek Fuel EX. I tried to put Hope V4 breaks on it, and the Pod mounts made this impossible. I purchased the paddle shifter, which fixed the shifter mount, but the Reverb Pod remodel was a pain to position so it could be reached with my thumb. The Pods are AWFUL!! The brackets SUCK and the Pods SUCK, the buttons fall off. I bought the bike to take to Arizona. When I got there, the derailleur started acting up once I got on the trails. I had to trim it out, so the lowest gear didn't work, but I got the other gears to work. The local bike shop ended up warranting the derailleur. I would have had a cable derailleur working in 10 minutes. The shifting is good when downshifting for steep climbs and selecting a tall gear for the epic descents. If you don't know how to shift a derailleur without blowing up a chain, you need the AXS T-Type. Otherwise, go with a cable. Besides, the batteries are another source of frustration. On another note, if you fly your bike places, the AXS T-Type will complicate things. You have to pull all your batteries so they are not dead when you get your bike off the plane.
600 lbs for a cassette..............F me. Im sure it shifts great and is really neat and all. -------------------------------- Ive figured out a new 12 speed EMTB cassette for my Shimano bike, is 39.99 US. Chain is 20.00. If I bust the SLX derailleur which I almost did the other day on a rock, its not very much money. It shifts great every time. Never missed yet in 1250 miles of trail riding. Mt bikes break things sometimes.
Strongly recommend everybody that rides an ebike get the GX version as the cassette is steal and therefor stronger. I’m pretty sure XX is NOT ebike rated!
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After many sram failures ive "de-sram'd" all my bikes in favor of xt xtr and saint, couldn't be happier. Shimano just keeps working and working and imo has much better feel and shifting under power is amazing
T-type is pretty sensitive to being setup properly, but fortunately it's a ridiculously simple process, and when setup right works beautifully. Mine started to develop an issue with the chain dropping gears when I back pedaled in 3rd gear. Just in case anyone else encounters the same, double check that your chain is properly tensionsed (in the A/B setup mode for your frame) in the setup gear, with the rear mech torqued to 35Nm - that solved it for me and it's been perfect since.
This is key!! Just put the mech in setup AB position, pull back on the mech to tense the chain then tighten to 35 Nm
I came to the same conclusion. I also bent my cage outward. After manually straightening the cage a few times I ended up buying a new one. Shifting is still amazing.
I did EXACTLY the same thing to my XO Transmission derailleur. $146 USD cage. I can't help but think with a traditional derailleur, I'd have bent the hangar instead of the cage, and been out $15 if it wasn't repairable...
I have to say depends on bike, I loved my old mountain bike before stolen, only issue is most bikes was like £5 where for my one took some time to find right one was £26 last time I brought the hangar
Chances are if you hit the actual pulley cage you would have bent the cage and possible the hanger, also if you had bent the outer part of the cage on a mechanical it is technically not replaceable, and you would have to buy a hole new mech. One key thing left out of this video is that you don't have to replace the cage with the one from the same model, if you want to save some money you could replace the cage with the one for XO or GX. Also I could replace my T type cage many times over for what it has saved me in chains and cassettes on my ebike, it really does last, I have over 1000 miles on my current chain, and it's still less than .5 wear.
Though the year I'd put 5000 miles on Campy road chains. I'd hope for 1000 miles on Shimano XT/XTR for mountain chains.
Pretending Sram "innovated" here is laughable. I specifically stopped ridding Sram because the bottom brackets are trash.
I didn't hate the shifting or shifters, but seems weird to buy a system over such supposed tiny improvements.
Give me reliable and durable all day everyday.
Though the year I'd put 5000 miles on Campy road chains. I'd hope for 1000 miles on Shimano XT/XTR for mountain chains.
Pretending Sram "innovated" here is laughable. I specifically stopped ridding Sram because the bottom brackets are trash.
I didn't hate the shifting or shifters, but seems weird to buy a system over such supposed tiny improvements.
Give me reliable and durable all day everyday.
That why I use SRAM so reliable but never used a SRAM bottom bracket though
Few years from now this will likely be standard, and there'll be something else that's new and 'revolutionizing' with a super steep price tag.
Most time rushing to get the latest thing is not worth it, the trails are still the same..
..Always found it hilarious that people kept saying that this thing wouldn't bend, the leverage from the lowest point to the mount is still huge, why wouldn't it bend lol, just maybe less than previous gen.
All about those MONIES tho, of course
Thanks for the shout out!
👊 you’re welcome!
The other trade off you didn't mention regarding shifting speed is that while it is slower than a the old eagle, you don't let off the power when shifting with transmission. so while you can dump the gears in the old eagle very quickly you can't put any power down during that shift, while with t type you can keep pushing all the way through. this completely changes the pedaling technique you can use.
Yes absolutely.
Never had an issue shifting under power with Eagle. It's simply better with transmission though. *I'm a lousy mountain biker, but I am a strong, 88kg cat1 on the road so I'm certainly putting power down
newbie problem
I was running the AXS X0 on my SC Bullit, when arbitrarily during shifting under load the rear mech just failed. It failed so hard that it bent the rear derailleur. This was on a ride so very unfortunate. What folks don’t realize is that the spring tension on the AXS rear derailleur is strong enough to oppose the rear derailleur and bend it. I had no idea this could happen. The rear unit basically bricked and had to be replaced by SRAM by way of my local bike shop where purchased. This has happened to other folks also, so not a one time occurrence because of rider error. I bought the T-Type because of this issue to see if in fact this would be beneficial for an eMTB rig with +85nm. So far the T-Type appears to be a rock crusher. No lag or slippage of any king during long and grueling technical climbs with the Bullit. With the chain line on the SC Bullit built around the eventuality of the 55mm requirement, seems SC has been in the know for some time. I think a company that has been pushing the boundaries knows and so awesome to have purchased a rig that is still comfortably set inside horizon specifications and technologies! 🤘🏼
Thanks for the update! I'm considering moving to this setup.
The only reason I use electronic system is due to ergonomics and light action, cus my thumb misaligns, locks up during shifts, which can be very painful.
I suspect the Sram paddle remote will work the best for me, as it is similar ergonomically to Archer D1xtrail paddle remote, which I have, sadly Archer Components is going out of business. So I need a solution for the future. I had to put the shifter from my shopping bike to my enduro bike as it failed, and as it's gen 1 they can't fix it, due to tooling and parts. And Gen2 is out of stock.
But the paddle remote had perfect ergonomics for me.
But looks like I'm forced to go for Sram AXS if I will use my Garbaruk cassette or anything else, and have possibility of swapping parts, getting a easy fix. But I still don't know if I can set it up for 11 speed.
Thanks for the honest review - I was curious about how this thing would play out long-term.
The component replacement cost reminds me of what my dad would say when he was in the RV business - "If you have to ask about the gas mileage, you can't afford it."
Thanks. We do have some exciting news about the cost of replacement parts. Watch our next MBR show next Sunday or look out on the website next week for more info.
Not related but i had xtr derailleur with archer components electronic shifting and the motor burned in the archer shifter after just a year the cie said no warranty only a deal on a new one so i put back my xtr mechanical shifter goes real good easyer to fix in the trails if something goes wrong and i like the feel 😊
You can buy the cage assembly without the clutch for much less money, many (online) dealers just don't list the part. But you can definitely get it.. I should know, I'm on my 3rd one in 6 months.
Yes good that they did this, but should be more widely known.
My problem is I have upgraded my Levo cranks to use the 5Dev aluminum, which is not compatible with the T type transmission system. I think I’m going to wait for a solution. I could be holding my breath for a long time I guess.
Its a good system and i like the action of it but with the price tag at the moment its not within reach if most people. I have ridden bikes with T type and to be honest didnt think it was worth the money. They do last well by this test through 👌 great video @mbr
I've been wondering how well these will hold up long-term without a sacrificial derailleur hanger, and it seems the answer is, surprisingly well. Although replacement parts are still significantly more expensive than derailleur hangers, and I'm still not sold on the idea that you need to keep a battery charged in order to ride your bicycle.
You can totally ride it as a single speed with a dead battery😂
@@veganpotterthevegan Riding as a single speed is viable as long as you were lucky enough to have the battery die in a suitable gear.
One issue I had was snow freezing up in the mech so half way through a ride I couldn’t shift. A pokie stick sorted it but just a funny thing to happen.
Weird, not heard of that before.
Afrer 4 years on eagele AXS and 7 months on T-Type I do like the T-Type better as it seems more rubust and I have gone through 2 Eagle AXS Derallieurs in the past. It is slower to change than eagle but it hasn't missed a beat. I have gone through several versions of the remote and now have the pod which I prefer for it's adjustability. Is it worth the money, maybe not but if it comes on your new bike it will be a bonus.
You use wrong tool to measure chain wear. That's CC-3.2 right? From Parktool's page: "*Use the CC-4 for SRAM® Flattop™ and SRAM® T-Type 12-speed chains."
Good tip. Didn’t know that. We did use several other chain checkers and the same result but will get hold of one of those 👍
I checked the chain again today using the Park CC-4 and it's showing less than 0.5% wear.
It's possible the chain is worn so little that it doesn't show the difference on both checkers. Parktool's staff writes CC-3.2 doesn't work because SRAM's flat top chains have larger roller diameter so it will show less wear than CC-4. Ride to the point where CC-4 shows 0.5 wear and then measure it with CC-3.2. It should show it's less than 0.5 still.
👍 good to know and will do that, just wanted to confirm the original wear stated in the video was accurate.
Bent my gx T type lower cage in less than 300 miles , the lower cage without the damper is now about to be released end of DEC 2024 around £28, I had to straighten the plates as best i could then use the micro adjust in the sram app to keep myself goign as I didnt fancy buying the expensive cage with damper
My XO T-type cassette is worn out at just 900 miles , I checked my first chain last week and it’s over 0.5 but under 0.75 so well within sram 0.8 recommendations. But after fitting a new chain it’s slipped over the teeth on gear 7th when under load ,all other gears are fine .
I spoke to sram tech guy and he said the gear 7th is worn out !
I’m constantly changing gears and rarely in any gear for long .
So after just 900 miles I need a new cassette and chain costing £780 .
I got more miles out of my standard sram eagle gx drive train like almost twice the miles .
This is on the same e-bike in the same conditions ams use
That is really disappointing…
I have both the approved Park Tool CC-4 and the Sram Chain check tool. I have a chain which falls in with the Sram tool which is supposed to be 0.8
When I check with the Parktool it doesn’t even go into the 0.5
So I would rather check with the Sram tool or at least use 0.5 instead of 0.8 with a non Sram chain checker.
I am at 1600km now and still well below 0.5 with both Parktool and Sram.
Actual useful info, thanks!
I have the GX AXS on one of my mountain bikes and I absolutely love it. The best part about it is that I can set it up so I can press and hold the rocker and shift through all the gears very quickly.
It's the one feature I love, otherwise I might as well go back to cables and pressing the lever rapidly to get through the gears. So if Transmission doesn't offer the same feature of going from top to bottom and back in one press within 2 or 3 seconds I have zero interest in the system.
That was actually my favourite feature of old AXS, and I do miss it sometimes. Despite that, I will say that overall, I'm super satisfied with the switch, mostly cos the chain noise from the old AXS rear mech bouncing around was killing me.
When the heck do you need to change 8+ gears within seconds on the trail?? Unexpected terrain changes on unfamiliar trails could be the exception, though having simple predictability and shifting BEFORE you enter a sharp variation in vertical trail variation is at most an intermediate skill.
When you are in a bunch sprint at the end of the Paris Roubaix…………..
I’ve just got the new rocker paddle shifter for the pod controller
I agree it pros over weigh its cons. If you have an emtb this is a must imo.
Great, honest review
Cheers!
SRAM is testing a new T-type that shifts as quickly as the AXS system. I've seen it and it could be a nice improvement.
Would be good to see what could be done in the way of shift quality by taking t types direct mount and using cables instead of axs from the sounds of things the tech that makes this better is in the chain and cassette and not the shifter and mech’s electronics
I have had my ‘24 Santa Cruz Heckler SL with the t-type XO transmission, since February. Broke the first cage in half on the second ride just by clipping it when I lost balance on a relatively low skinny stockade. Barely 200 miles later, and I just bent #2 by doing the same thing. This is getting expensive. Installing #3 today.
Third time lucky 🤞
Update: I am now on my 4th
Issue is I just got a CC frame Santa Cruz hightower and they done away with the Internal and you have to use wireless. It's upsetting and now I'm stressing about a massive cost for wireless.
Yes that’s a bit of a oversight for the sake of a slightly cleaner looking frame. The C frame has internal heat routing though.
1200km on Levo is just 3-5 months of riding....
any way, think about upgrading your drivetrain to trusty XT M8000 - costs 80 quids? and cassette another 80 ?
Yes, you’re right about the mileage, but we had a load of other bikes to ride and test during this time. Only so many hours in the day! 😂
You guys are killing it at the moment. I possibly think the reason you bent the cage externally is due to it being pre-bent in that direction. So when it receives an impact to the bottom of the cage, it continues in that direction.
3000km out of the cassette?
That is to low to be honest, but i ques it depends on the maintenance, as i usually swap my cassette after 10000km, but after every ride i am cleaning the chain and the cassette.
I don’t know if it’s changed in the 8 months since this came out but you can buy a GX cage without the clutch for $42CAD. I’m on my third.
They announced it just after this video, and partly in reaction to this video 👍
I have mounted that same transmission, it works perfectly but the original chain guide is not suitable for that chainring. I have seen that you do not mount it, probably the same problem. Is there a solution?
Direct mount with a cable please.
4:27 I initially thought the same thing and was incredibly frustrated... quick undulating terrain can become unridable in some cases. HOWEVER I later figured out that if you shift quickly, but not *too quickly*, you can actually get it to drop & climb the cassette at comparable speeds to older models. There seems to be some sort of "limp mode" triggered if you try shifting past a certain rate. Play around with it and you'll find the threshold, it can shift much quicker than in the video. I actually had a long running support ticket open with sram to figure out why this is the case, but was never able to get any information from them. I understand why they would would want to set a hard limit on shift speed, but its unclear to me why in order to get the mech to hit that limit you have to shift *slower*. Maybe you guys would be able to get some info from sram about it :)
Had an old cable operated drive train on my DH bikes for the last 8 years, can't believe my shifter is starting to fail. Luckily the one one on my trail bike is still going, 10nsoeed, good old zee mech I bought 2nd hand. My ROi is significantly better than new boutique tech for the sake of tech and selling something.
6:18 I wouldn't replace the cage unless it snapped, I would've taken it apart, put each plate on a flat surface and used a hammer to straighten it out. With Shimano 10 speed rear derailleur from years ago, it worked well, it shifted perfectly afterwards. Even managed to sell the cage afterwards.
Admittedly, I haven't tried transmission, but I'm somewhat perplexed by its appeal. I ride a regular mtb and not an emtb. I'm not constantly shifting, and I've never had problems shifting under load. For context, I like in greater Vancouver, BC. Typically, I ride up to ride down, and I'm on 73kg. I could see this system being good for an emtb where there is potential for more torque. For regular MTB, for me, at least, it seems to be a fix to a problem that doesn’t really exist.
Since electronic derailleurs eliminate the cable, they are set and forget. That's pretty much their only advantage over mechanical derailleurs.
@Durwood71 I very rarely touch my derailleur cable. To me, that advantage is offset by checking batteries and remembering to charge them. When you factor in cost, it seems like a very minimal gain.
@@briannyob7799 Agreed, electronic derailleurs offer a minimal advantage at best as even a cable actuated derailleur can give you trouble free performance for a very long time with only occasional adjustment to the cable tension. Of course there's the added simplicity of not having to maintain a physical connection between the derailleur and shifter, making for easier setup and a cleaner cockpit, but then that is offset by the complexity of a wireless electronic system in and of itself and the need to always keep a battery charged.
I have both electric and cable on different bikes and also don't use my gears like a gorilla so I don't have problems under load.
Electric gears are really nice to use because the shifting is so precise. It doesn't really solve a problem just gives a more refined experience. I don't get frustrated when I ride the cable gears, it just feels luxuriously crisp when I ride the axs bike.
I have the GX AXS on my commuter and an X01 AXS on my Trailbike. I must admit that the shifting performance is only a marginal gain compared to my 11 Speed cable XT on my Enduro Bike. It's a nice gimmick, but not really worth the money. I like the T-Type and I'm also tempted to change, but let's be honest: I crashed ONE derailleur over the last 10000 kilometers and replacement costs me 80 Euros for an XT option. The upcharge is massive and well adjusted cable systems work almost perfectly.
T-Type AXS is a noticeable shift upgrade over old AXS. And we have news about a MUCH cheaper option for repairing a bent cage. Stay tuned for this week’s MBR show for the info 👍
Hello what ring at front 34 or 36?
36t 👍
Is XX T type the top end kit. To be honest the Sram groupsets confuse me. I like the names like: Record - Super Record, makes it easier to know which it top end.
XX SL is the highest priced drivetrain but only intended for xc racing. Then XX, then X0, then GX. 👍
Thanks, I'm probably uniquely stupid. I can get how xxsl is higher grade to xx but xo v's xx. I just think their marketing team could have come up with more logical names.
Ha! I guess Shimano is no better in that regard with SLX, XT, XTR etc
What is the difference between the T type bike with the others? I see specialized has the turbo levo sl , and turbo t type
Have you got it more in detail? Bit I'm confused on is what frame looks like that accepts a UDH (how looks without hangar) I'm looking at a bike frame but from pictures can't tell, it is the DIY frame of Trek Slash
UDH will bolt into the frame where the axle threads into the drive side - it is the thread for the axle. If you Google SRAM UDH images you’ll find loads.
@@MBRmagazine okay thanks, I have googled it before and tried to see in videos how it actually mounts but it always been unclear to me
Guess I probably go with transmission then, it basically as I couldn't see clearly how it worked to mount that was unsure, with all older derailleur I'm like that's the derailleur hangar that bolt to frame, with transmission I was like what?
So look closely at your frame, remove your current derailleur, and your rear wheel. If the mech hanger attached to the frame with a small screw, it’s a UDH. If you have to loosen a large 10mm hex bolt that covers the entire axle end cap, it’s a UDH. I’ll drop a link to one of our articles here that shows a UDH hanger removed.
@@MBRmagazine okay thanks and that be handy
150% agree about the shifter pod. I have the rocker type on my full suspension bike and my new Pro-caliber has the pod with matchmaker clamp.
I'm now in the process of ordering a rocker paddle, due to the lack of adjustment and difficulty reaching the pod, which is not ideal on a race bike!
Looks like a mega fail by the SRAM design team.
Can u say me something about battery? More people reacts about life on one full charge (lowest than old Eagle) is that true? Full battery max range? TY for your experience.
You might be onto something. It does feel like we’re charging batteries more frequently now, but there’s no way we can say that definitively. 👍
I put 1100 miles on my old cable shifter gx. But I had an extra 12s cassette shifter and derailuer laying. Just had to buy a chain which was 32 bucks. Still cheaper to fix with old cable shifter systems. But may switch back to the original axs eagle I had on my other bike when this drive train goes out. Not sure tho
Not sure if this is true but the chain checker you’re using is no good for that chain! I checked mine every month and it was completely fine but when the chain started to jump and eventually snapped I got another chain, that started jumping and was a complete nightmare! Long story short the cassette was toast! When I was calling around to get a new cassette I spoke to someone who had heard that normal chain checkers don’t work as they had had the same issue, I’ve bought the new checker and a GX cassette (£199) instead of the XX. Apart from this problem it’s worked flawlessly on my Bosch performance CX motor, I am at around 2,000klm on the motor but I was using my old XO1 axs for a few months until I fitted T type. Couldn’t find anything on the sram site but the new checker shows a flat topped chain on it!
Yes you're right, the chain checker shown in the video isn't correct for T-Type. We found out after filming and got hold of the correct one. When we re-measured it the wear was exactly the same. 👍
Scootering along mate, on E-bike
What is the super drive
Google ‘Supre Drive’ or watch our hottest new bikes for 2024 video 👍
Yes I have XX Transmission on my Trek Supercaliber. After a few rides with the Transmission Controller I switched the shifter to the Rocker Controller. Huge improvement.
So much nicer to use! 👍
@@MBRmagazine IMO the Leap Components Quickshift works the best (it most closely mimics a traditional shifter, left side for easier, right side for harder). The Rocker still caused an unwanted shift as one buttom is higher and deeper, where the downshift is normally lower and deeper, and the other is higher but shallower, where the upshift is normally lower but shallower).
T Type seems pretty nice but I dont think I'm missing out with my acoustic bike AXS
imo shimano slx or xt is all that people need
Yes, also. The range thing is a weird one to me, I currently have a XT 10-45 cassette with a 32 tooth chainring, I live in a mountainous Canadian area and I've never had issues with range, I pedal up everything I encounter...
But apparently I still need more range 😂
You obviously haven't ridden T-Type then. On an E-Bike, T-Type is unbelievable
I have XT on one bike, and SLX on the other, riding them I forget they are any different.
Both work great. If I break the SLX mech on a rock, its not that big a deal.....the EMTB 12 speed shimano cassette can be found for 39.99 if you hunt a little .
imo 26" hardtail is all that people need. I guess some people just like things that are better 🤷♂️
Shimano xt is rubbish for an E bike!!! I went through 8 derailleurs in 1200 miles ...... There just not built well enough for e bikes .....
I've bent two cages on mine in 600 miles. Love the shift quality not as durable as xt11 speed
I'm still debating... I'm about to build a really nice new Nomad and I know how perfect the old 2014 X01 11spd drivetrain was, which was slightly better than my current 11spd XTR drivetrain. so My debate is between a new X01 cable 12spd or the AXS... thats a lot of money to add to a drivetrain that I imagine already works flawlessly
3000 km with a cassette? You’re probably doing something wrong. I've replaced about 3 11-tooth cogs and one 13-tooth cog on my CS-M8000 cassette since 2018. I use wax and rotate through 6 chains, each used for 300 km before cleaning. Only this fall did I have to replace two because they had reached 75% wear. I also use them on my gravel bike with an CS-HG800 cassette. As for the mileage, Strava says my MTB have a little over 15,000 km.
How many miles on ur chain?
Chain stretch is measured on the top and with the pedals/chain under pressure, possibly on two different point of the chain length. Everything else is wrong.
I’ve got 2200 miles on my Rail in 6 months. I’m on Shimano XT linkglide. Best system ever. On my 3rd chain already and 4 sets of brake pads. Lol
Good effort! 💪
Been wondering if the new Vivid Ultimate fits a Levo comp carbon, and this video seems to confirm that it does?! Is there a specific shock/ tune for the Levo or is this a std off the shelf part? Cheers!
I believe the idea was to sell specific off-the-shelf tunes for popular bikes, so there should be one for the Turbo Levo. I’ll ask SRAM but getting an answer may take a while, so worth contacting your local suspension service/tuning centre.
Thanks for this! I just looked on the TF Tuned website, and they do show a specific Levo tuned shock. £800 is asking a bit much though to be honest, think I'll wait for a better deal to materialize. I have a Zeb ultimate up front so would be nice to have the matching rear.@@MBRmagazine
Thank god there is Linkglide for people who didn't win the lottery.
I will be going GX on my e bike
I'd definitely straighten that cage out before parting with any more money 😁
Nice bike Danny
I have X01 cable on one bike and GX AXS on another. Both work flawlessly and I see no need to spend ridiculous sums of money to change to T Type. Im afraid I see T Type as a last ditch attempt to sweat more money out of brands and riders realizing that the day of 100 year old plus chain/derailleur/cassette combo is coming to an end.
Gearbox is the future of ebike but for regular bike derailleur will be hard to beat.
Not really fair to complain about cost of XX cage. You can buy just the inner and outer in the US for $36/each. You can always throw on the GX cage and save a pile. They're interchangeable. I also never go from one end of the cassette the other. Generally just one or two at a time, and so I'll take this new system as a big improvement.
At the time we recorded the video the only cage options were over £100.
That park tool 3.2 chain checking tool doesnt work on t type chains and will be giving you a massive red hearing on wear .you need a CC-4 .
I bet that chain is way past its limit .
Correct 👍
Thanks for the info. Will get hold of one and measure it. We did use a couple of other chain checkers as well but will definitely get a cc-4 👍
I checked the chain again today with the Park CC-4 tool and it's under 0.5% wear.
Yeah I got about 1000 miles out of an xx chain for .5 wear on a normal bike using the cc4. Damn there expensive to replace 😆🤦♂️
Anybody went from the old AXS to the new transmission? Worth the money on a new bike or take the old AXS on the new bike?
If you can get old 12 spd axs for cheap, then not worth it. If you like hammering gears under full load, then T Types great
@@TheSpaceBrosShow well I still have my normal mtb with xx1 AXS drive train, my emtb just arrived yesterday with a shimano XT setup so I thought putting the shimano XT stuff on my mtb and xx1 on the emtb or sell the xx1 stuff and put the new XO transmission on it.
What would you recommend?
@@a.w.mmathijssen7517 maybe ride the ebike with the XT and see how you like it first?
@@TheSpaceBrosShow i have 2 carbon wheelsets with XD body's and i would like to use them.
@a.w.mmathijssen7517 sell the xt and get a GX upgrade kit for the eeb. XX1 is a waste on an ebike imo. You are saving grams on something that is always going to be heavy and if you are anything like me, then you tend to bash around a bit more on an ebike than a nice normal bike so GX is perfect.
Are you sure, that tool works for measuring this Sram's chain wear? Previous models had rollers bigger size, so this tool was useless. 0.5 was falling only when real weat was up to 1.
Will get hold of the cc4 park tool 👍
I checked it again today using the Park CC-4 tool and it's showing 0.5% wear.
@@MBRmagazine thanks! That's important update.
I bent my mech in the first 20 hours….
How many will I brake in 12 months… ?
Did you manage to repair it?
@@MBRmagazine no I’m still trying to determine what to do… I might throw it to the sram storefront
Just the cage or the parallelogram?
@@MBRmagazine Since it somehow still "works" which is insane. ive taken my time, but im going to try to take it somewhere where they can handle bending appropiately if i can find it. Do you have any idea on how to repair it? Since my bike has a couple of weeks and other details im thinking about warranty.
Are you talking a 'regular' rear mech, or a T-Type mech? If the former, then you may be able to find a replacement cage, but it's probably better in the long run to buy a new one rather than throwing good money after bad.
Why are we still using Chains and Sprockets. XX is Polishing a Turd.
over 1000km and still using specialised tyres? ik you can buy more of them but would you not buy a more traditional tyre brand when you have to replace them?
The Eliminator is fine on the back - you only need grip up front! I wore though the Minion DHR II that was on originally.
It looks like the inner cage is now available for sale so you don't have to buy the full assembly.
If only there would be way to make a rear mech, have a fail point that won't cost a price of brand new cheps bike to replace it...Oh well
hey brother nice content!! i thought that the sram cranks are not compatible with this bike since the fram offset on specialized, they work, but they make the q factor a bit weird, what do u think?
Thanks! There’s another comment saying the same thing about the cranks, but our bike was built by SRAM, so it can’t be that bad. Also the system was developed and tested using the Turbo Levo. We’ll reach out to them and find out though 👍
I stick with shimano saint 10 speed on my ebike,chain & cassette for &50
I had an X9/SLX mix back in the 2x9 days. Since then I've been on 11 speed XT and it's been flawless. I've recently moved to GX eagle and I can't say I'm a fan. No instant release, cassettes that strip freehubs and cost £180 each, a derailleur that sticks out way more than it should. I think I'll go back to shimano :(
Transmission is great. But other than that Shimano wins everywhere else. I loved my 12 speed XT
Funny. I have 3 bikes all running Shimano 12 speed XT and my Fat Bike has SRAM GX Eagle on it. Every time I get on my Fat Bike I am always impressed with how much better it shifts than the Shimano systems I have. And the SRAM system, being that it's on my Fat Bike, goes through much harsher conditions than any of the Shimano setups I have.
I like both systems and I tend to work with the one that comes with the bike. Although I do think SRAM shifts better than Shimano and I have never had issues with it stripping out anything.
@ShadLife I do like the solid clunk I get from a shift on the GX, but the XT shifter is far superior IMO. I might be comparing across tiers there though, which isn't fair.
Have you not had any issues when replacing a sram cassette? The torque spec is 40nm which just seems ridiculous to me. Perhaps it's the Newmen freehubs I'm running that are causing my issues.
@@howarddavies136 It does seem like a lot of torque, but I haven't had an issue with anything stripping. I do however hate removing a cassette with that much torque on it and it also seems unnecessary since it's notched.
Your problem isn't Sram it's 12 speed. The clearances are so tight and the cage needs to be so long that they will never be as reliable as 11 speed. Shimano's 12 speed derailleurs will disappoint you compared to their reliable 11 speed ones too. And Microspline has created an unnecessary headache for compatibility and Cassette choice.
Its a nice looking system, but XT is still better value. I also hate keeping track on charging batteries.
Valid
I"ll go the rocker paddle all day everyday...
Transmission is 🔥🔥🔥
you could 100% bend that mech back also for a spare
The price of this T Type system is extortionate. SRAM is probably making about 60x profit per unit, at least. Anyone with mass production manufacturing experience will know what I’m talking about with something so simple as a chain. There’s no reason the flat top should double the price whatsoever. There’s a profit margin, and then there’s price gouging. You can buy a tonne of top quality steel raw material for what they are charging for a single cassette!
I hope this triggers gearboxes development, bringing down the price and then SRAM can get stuffed with their £100 chains and £600 cassettes.
I’d gladly pay good money on a gearbox and belt drive that only needs an oil change every 3 years or so instead of this.
Us bikers have been absolutely rinsed these past few years.
Team ROCKER POD!!!!
if anyone wants to trade a T-type for old shifter pod let me know!
I will stick with my slx or cable operated gx. I will save my $ for upgraded suspension.
This is the way.
SRAM mechs are terrible ! Not designed for MTB, look at their sizes !! Gargantuan! I was hitting some rocks on every ride ! I've upgraded my drivetrain to trusty M8000 XT mech on my Levo and Sentinel, no strikes any more, no probs !!
All that money and wireless! And it almosts shifts as good as XT😂
I'll stick with linkglide but thanks for sharing
It could be the most crisp shifter perfect system it's still 600$ for a cassette.
I already hear the apologists:
"But you kneow, on a 10k bike a 600$ cassette is justified"
Sure sure, have a Yeti, suck on it
I agree. I "could" afford to run some exotic drivetrain like this, but I wont.
If you know how to shift a mt bike, a basic SLX shimano works really well, no problem at all.
Quick and quiet shifts. Its more about getting the shifting done the right way, not under full load.
Your chain checker is not compatible with T-Type chains. The larger rollers mess up your measurement
Yes, thanks. We got hold of the correct tool and re-measured and it was the same.
You have to shave 2mm off that sram chain ring to get the required 55mm chain line
On the specialized Levo cause the off set of the motor will make the chain line 57mm which will cause problems shifting into the lower gears.
I have done this and it shifts perfect now!
Thanks for the info. We’ll look into it.
That’s the wrong chain wear indicator for a flat top chain.
Yes, thanks. We’ve subsequently checked it again with a Park cc-4 and it measured less than 0.5% wear.
Why their not realise mechanical version stil
English?
@@v1ncen715 not my national langueage , not everybody are English 😋
Probably because it’s still very new and too early for trickle-down.
Not for me. I happy with shinano xt mechanical. Easy to maintain, fairly cheap, no batteries.
riders that don't do Kamakazi downhills , as in huge drops , high speed, and aerial acrobatics , don't need the new tech that is presented here and in ads by the bike industry . the big extra cost cannot be justified on the basis of the small increase in performance especially for those that don't ride as mentioned above. there MAY come a day when the cost comes down from the stratosphere, but until then i'll keep my ' old tech' hardtail .
You can apply that logic to pretty much any product. And while it is true that the law of diminishing returns does create a level of component where the price/performance balance finds a natural equilibrium, that doesn’t stop people wanting, and purchasing, high tech products.
Industry is very skilled at blurring the lines between need and want .
i have no problem with 'want' but i do have a problem with being encouraged to buy something on the basis of hyperbole .
I got the AXS T-Type on my Trek Fuel EX. I tried to put Hope V4 breaks on it, and the Pod mounts made this impossible. I purchased the paddle shifter, which fixed the shifter mount, but the Reverb Pod remodel was a pain to position so it could be reached with my thumb. The Pods are AWFUL!! The brackets SUCK and the Pods SUCK, the buttons fall off. I bought the bike to take to Arizona. When I got there, the derailleur started acting up once I got on the trails. I had to trim it out, so the lowest gear didn't work, but I got the other gears to work. The local bike shop ended up warranting the derailleur. I would have had a cable derailleur working in 10 minutes. The shifting is good when downshifting for steep climbs and selecting a tall gear for the epic descents. If you don't know how to shift a derailleur without blowing up a chain, you need the AXS T-Type. Otherwise, go with a cable. Besides, the batteries are another source of frustration. On another note, if you fly your bike places, the AXS T-Type will complicate things. You have to pull all your batteries so they are not dead when you get your bike off the plane.
600 lbs for a cassette..............F me.
Im sure it shifts great and is really neat and all.
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Ive figured out a new 12 speed EMTB cassette for my Shimano bike, is 39.99 US.
Chain is 20.00. If I bust the SLX derailleur which I almost did the other day on a rock, its not very much money. It shifts great every time. Never missed yet in 1250 miles of trail riding.
Mt bikes break things sometimes.
That doesn’t look like the correct 12s chain checker.
Well spotted. We subsequently got the correct one and checked it again. The result was still under 0.5% wear. 👍
1:20 that's the wrong tool for the job lol
We’ve subsequently checked again with the Park CC-4 and the result was the same. Less than 0.5%.
Strongly recommend everybody that rides an ebike get the GX version as the cassette is steal and therefor stronger. I’m pretty sure XX is NOT ebike rated!
XX cassette is also steel except for the 52t sprocket. And XX IS rated for use on e-bikes. 👍